BBT052 Southern Belle Lulu

Southern Belle Lulu BBT052
A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton
Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton
Phone: (830)896-9616
Email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com
On-line Store: www.etsy.com/shop/bluebearytreasures
2
Abbreviations
beg – begin/beginningbet -- between lp(s) – loops
BL – back loop mm – millimeter(s)
ch – chain stitch pl – place
ch- – refers to a ch space previously prev – previous
made: e.g., ch-1 space rem – remaining
ch-sp – refers to chain or space rnd(s) – round(s)
cm – centimeter(s) RS – right side
cont -- continue sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr) sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
together (decrease) sk – skip
Dec – decreases(s) Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
ea – each Sp(s) – space(s)
FL – front loop(s) St – stitch
FO – fasten off tog -- together
hdc – half double crochet WS -- wrong side
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 Yd(s) – yard(s)
stitches together YO – yarn over
inc – increase Yoh – yarn over hook
____________________________________________________________
Comparison Between Perle Cotton and Crochet Cotton:
Perle Size Crochet Size

3 5
5 10
8 20
12 30
16 40 - 50
Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a ruler,
with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit inside ¼ inch (.6
cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For instance, if your thread wraps around 12 times,
then it is equivalent to size 12 perle cotton.
Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a ruler,
with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit inside ½ inch (1.3
cm) is the equivalent size to crochet cotton. For instance, if your thread wraps around 30 times,
then it is equivalent to size 30 crochet cotton
3
Materials & Supplies for Bear: Size 20 thread and size 10 hook = 3-1/4 inch bear
 Size 20 cotton thread, ivory – 1 ball of DMC Cebelia makes about 3 bears
 Size 20 thread, light brown and red (for shoes) – about 25 yds
 Size 10 crochet hook
 Fiberfill or stuffing of choice
 Two 3mm glass beads for eyes, or 4mm mini teddy bear eyes, amber
 Two ¼” by 1/16” joint disks (optional)
 One 1/16” by ½ “ cotter pin (optional)
 Black embroidery thread
 Sewing Needles: 2” Milliner's needle and beading needle, or needles of choice
 Small hemostat or tweezers to assist with stuffing
 Small needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
 Small, sharp scissors
Materials & Supplies for Southern Belle Outfit:

 Size 20 crochet thread, red – dress and bag (Model was made with Cebelia DMC)
 Size 20 crochet thread, black – trim, hat, shawl, bloomers
 Size 10 crochet hook
 Three ¼-inch red ribbon roses
 Four 3mm black beads for buttons
 14-inch length of 1/18 or 1/16-inch-wide ribbon for sash
 8-inch length of same ribbon for hat bow
 Sewing needle
 Sewing thread in same color as ribbon rose.
 Blunt tapestry needle
Gage: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all the pattern
pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is suggested that when
making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that you complete both in one
sitting. The same weight yarn and hook size should be used for all pieces unless otherwise
indicated.
Guide to Making Southern Belle Lulu in Other Sizes
THREAD/YARN HOOK EYES JOINT HARDWARE APPROX SIZE
Size 30, Size 12 Pearl 12 2 or 3mm 1/2" cotter pin/1/4" disk 2.5" – 3"
Size 10 7 4 or 5mm glass 1" cotter pin/1/2" disk 5" – 6"
Sport or DK Weight C 9-mm plastic 20mm plastic joint set 7" – 9 "
Worsted Weight G 12mm plastic 30mm plastic joint set 12" – 14"
4
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
Weaving/hiding loose thread ends: When making the bear, you can hide the loose ends by
pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the needle through the piece 2
or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out between stitches, being careful
not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and clip close to the surface so that it
disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you can't
hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long enough to
enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always leave a tail that is
long enough to thread onto a needle and weave. To weave: Thread the tail onto a needle.
Working on the WS of the piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened
off, insert the needle underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5
stitches, and then turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.
Important Note on Stuffing: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly affect the
quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be amazed at
the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be stuffed firmly so that
it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to the extent that
the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.
BEAR
Head:
1. Ch 6 with bear color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, 3 sc in last ch continuing
around to opposite side of chain, sc in next 3 free lps, 2 sc in last free lp; do not join, place rnd
marker. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
4 - 5. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
6. Sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. (19 sc)
7. Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 12 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (31 sc)
8. Sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3
sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (41 sc)
9. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc. (39 sc)
10. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4
sc. (35 sc)
11– 12. Sc in ea sc around. (35 sc)
13. Sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc. (33 sc)
14 – 15. Sc in ea around. (33 sc)
16. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker here (this is to change the beginning point of the rnd, and
does not change the stitch count), sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in
next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (29 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times; last st will go into next row; move rnd marker to begin rnd
here. (23 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (23)
5
 Stuff muzzle, then place a disc onto a cotter pin; insert the pin into the head and out the center
bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line with the middle of the snout, easing
the pin through carefully so as not to tear the thread. Continue stuffing the head so that you can
be sure you have the cotter pin in the right place. If the joint is off-center, remove the stuffing
and reposition the cotter pin.
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times; do not work last 2 st. (16 sc)
 Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Don’t forget to fill out the cheek area on
each side of the snout. Check shaping from all angles.
20. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)

21. Keeping stitches as tight as possible, sc2tog 8 times; FO, leaving long end for sewing.
 Add as much stuffing as you need in order to round out the back of the head.
 Thread long end on needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of FL of rnd 21; pull
firmly to gather, fasten off.
Eye Sockets (optional): Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate
the eye positions. Mark the position. Thread a needle using upholstery or other strong thread
similar to the color of the head. Insert the needle up into the bottom of the head and out the left
eye location between rows 8 and 9. Take a stitch the width of one sc, inserting needle back into
head, and bringing it out at the right eye location, about 10 – 12 stitches to the right of the st just
taken. Pull firmly to make an indentation for left eye. Take a stitch the width of one sc, inserting
needle into head at right eye location, and back out where the 1 st left eye stitch was taken. Pull
firmly to make an indentation for the right eye. Keeping thread taut, insert needle into left eye
socket, and bring it out the bottom of head. Fasten off securely, making sure that eye sockets
remain indented. At this point you may use dark brown eye shadow on a cotton swab, water
color pencil, or other medium to shade the eye area, if desired.
Attach eyes: Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread: Begin by threading a
sturdy needle, such as the milliner's needle, with the nylon or other strong thread.
Wire loop eyes: Crimp the wire loop, if it's not pre-crimped, until you can just get your needle
through the loop; insert the needle through the loop, pulling the thread into the loop, and then
remove the thread from the needle. Thread both ends back onto the needle, and then insert the
needle into the first eye location. Bring the needle out the back or bottom of the head (depending
on the angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire loop touches the face. Insert the
crimped loop into the same place where the needle went in (use a larger needle to enlarge the
hole to accommodate the loop if necessary), pushing it flush against the face. Pull gently but
firmly on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to
allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place, then push through to another
place on the bottom of the head, to help anchor the thread. Remove the thread from the needle,
and tie the ends with a surgeon's knot (see diagram at right). Thread the ends back onto the
needle, then push the needle through to another spot on the bottom of the head. Tug on the
6
thread to force the knot inside the head. Pull the thread taut, and clip
close to surface so that the end disappears inside the head.
Repeat the process for the second eye.
Bead eyes: Use the same method as for wired eyes, but if you can't
get the needle you're using through the eye bead, remove the thread from the needle, insert it
through the eye bead, then rethread the needle. If you see small indentations on the back of the
head caused by attaching the eyes, insert the needle into the head sideways underneath the
stitches where the indentation is, and gently pull upward with the needle until the area is even
with the rest of the head.
(Optional) Using the fine tip black marker, draw a fine line across the top of the eye from one
side to the other. Draw the line using a dotting motion, staying very close to the outer edge of
the eye.
Nose, Mouth, Eyebrows:

Embroider nose in a triangle shape using satin stitch with 2 strands of black embroidery floss.
Begin by knotting the thread and inserting the needle up through the bottom of the head or
muzzle, and coming out at center top of muzzle between rows 2 and 3 (1 and 2 for shorter
muzzle). Tug to pull knot inside head. Now bring the needle straight down from the exit point,
and insert back into the muzzle where you want the longest point of the nose to be. This will be
the bottom point of the triangle for all the nose stitches. Make another stitch over the first one,
then make the next stitch beginning at the bottom center of the nose, and ending in the space 1 sc
to the right of the center stitch. Repeat to the left. Now fill in the nose with satin stitch. With
the same thread, embroider 1 vertical straight stitch beginning at bottom center of nose and going
downward about 3 sc in length. Make an inverted v-stitch for mouth, with center being at the
bottom of the straight stitch that comes down from nose. Embroider a straight st for each brow,
beg at outer edge of each eye between rows 1 or 2 rows above eyes (depending upon the
expression you want the bear to have), making each brow 2 or 3 sc long. Don’t be afraid to
experiment with placement of the features.
Ears (Make 2):

1. Ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd lp from hook; ch 1, turn (rnd 1 is the front of the ear). (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, 2 sc in last sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc across. (14 sc)
5. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
6. Sc2tog 5 times; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
7. Sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
8. Sc in next 3 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing.
Attach ears: Thread a needle with the long end. With front facing up, flatten ear horizontally,
then sew bottom opening of ear from center to left side. Fold ear vertically from center towards
front, bringing ear into a cup shape with RS forming inside of cup. Tack bottom left front corner
to bottom right front corner. Sew bottom opening from right side to center of ear.
7
Put a straight pin through the bottom of each ear, pointing downward, and experiment with
placement until you find the location you like. Sew ear to head, maintaining cup shape, with
back center point of ear placed 3 rows behind center front.
Body:
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
6. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc.
(34 sc)
12. Sc in next 11 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. (40
sc)
14. Sc in next 12 sc, place a contrasting marker, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, 2 sc in
next sc, place a contrasting marker, sc in next12 sc. (46 sc) The two markers will be used to
assist with placement of head, arms, and legs, so be careful not to pull them out as you work.
16. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 26 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
18. Sc in next 6 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (35 sc)
If disk jointing: At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the
bottom of the head into the center of round 1 of the body. Place a disk onto the
cotter pin and push flush toward head; then, reaching inside body with small
pliers, curl each side of cotter pin toward disk.
If thread jointing: Stuff upper part of body firmly. Thread a 3-inch needle with doubled
upholstery or other strong thread that matches body. Insert needle up into body through stuffing,
and out center of neck. Take a stitch into the bottom center of the bear's head beginning slightly
to the right of center, go as deep as you can, and come out slightly to the left of center. Insert the
needle back into the center of neck on body, back down through the stuffing, and out the bottom.
Pull to bring head snugly against body. Next insert the needle back up through the body, out
center neck opening, and up through center of head, coming out at center top of head between
ears. Reverse the process, inserting the needle into the same place where you just brought it out
on the head, and bringing it out the bottom opening of the body. Pull firmly but gently on the
thread, then tie off inside the body.
20. Sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (26 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times, sc2tog. (17 sc)
 Stuff body firmly.
8
23. Sc2to 9 times; FO, leaving a long end.
 Close using the same method used for the head.
Right Arm:
1. Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; moving around to work on opposite side of ch,
sc in next 3 free lps; place rnd marker. (6 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 4 sc. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
8. Sc in next 8 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sl st. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
9. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sl st. (14 sc)
15 - 16. Sc in next sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 9 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
 Begin stuffing arm.
17. Sc in next 2 st, sl st loosely in next 3 sl st, sc in next 9 sc. (11 sc, 3 sl st)
18. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc. (15 sc)
22. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (13 sc)
23. 4 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing. (11 sc )
 Finish stuffing firmly. Close end using same method used to close head and body.
Left Arm:
1. Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch; moving around to work on opposite side of ch,
sc in next 3free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sl st loosely in next 4 sc. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
8. Sc in next 8 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sl st. (8 sc, 4 sl st)
9. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sl st. (14 sc)
15 - 16. Sc in next 6 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (10 sc, 4 sl st)
 Begin stuffing arm.
17. Sc in next 7 st, sl st loosely in next 3 sl st, sc in next 4 sc. (11 sc, 3 sl st)
18. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 st. (15 sc)
22. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (13 sc)
23. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc; FO with sl st in next sc; leaving
long end for sewing. (11 sc )
9
 Finish stuffing. You may need to do a little shaping and twisting on this arm to get it aligned
properly. The slip stitches should be toward the bottom of the hand and toward the top of the
inside of the elbow.
 Close using the same method used for right arm.
Attach arms: (See pages 17-18 for photographic jointing guide)

Begin by using pins to find the desired placement for the limbs. Thread a 2.5" needle with a
length of upholstery thread, doubled; do not knot end. Insert needle into shoulder where arm will
go, and push through body and out the opposite side where arm placement has been determined;
leave 5 inch tail of thread protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into the body one rnd
above and push back through body, coming out one rnd above the protruding tail. Then insert
the needle back into the same place from which the tail is protruding, push back through to
opposite side of shoulder, and back out same place as before (bottom of stitch). Pull to indent
arm sockets slightly, then insert needle into first arm from inner arm. * Push out other side, then
insert needle back into arm in same place, dip needle down and back up, inside the arm, to catch
some stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out arm in same place as entry. Go back into body
in same place as thread joint, through body and back out opposite side in same place as tail,**
then into 2nd arm from inner side of arm. Repeat * to ** for this arm; end by coming out just in
front of the 1st arm. Tighten arms against body. Cut thread, leaving 5-inch tail. Make sure arms
are snug against body, then tie both sets of tails, using a surgeon's knot (see illustration above).
Thread the ends onto a needle, and pull through the body to hide ends; clip close to body. Finish
by using one strand of black floss to embroider 3 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches on the
end of each paw for claws.
Legs: (Make 2)
1. Ch 7 with light brown, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; moving
around to work on opposite side of ch, 2 sc in next free lp, sc in next 4 free lps, sc in next free lp;
do not join; place marker. (15 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (22 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 7 sc, sc in next 7 sc: FO with sl st in next sc.
(30 sc)
4. Working in BL, join shoe color with sc in sl st; sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)
5. Sc in both lps of ea sc around. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in next 8 sc. (24 sc)
7. Sc in ea around; FO shoe color with sl st in next sc. (24 sc)
8. Working in BL, join bear color with sc in BL of sl st, sc in next 3 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5
times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (19 sc)
9. Sc in next 3 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc. (14)
10. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc. (13 sc)
 Stuff foot, shaping with fingers to keep sole as flat as possible.
12. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (does not change stitch count); sc in next 6
sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc. (15 sc)
10
13. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (16)
15. Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc. (18 sc)
22. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 7 sc. (16 sc)
24. Sc in next sc, move marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
 Continue stuffing leg.
25. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times, sl st in next sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing.
 Finish stuffing leg firmly. Close end same as arms.
Attach Legs: Following same procedure used for arms, attach legs to body about 6 rounds
from center bottom.
DRESS
Skirt:
1. Ch 41 with red, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 3, turn. (Ch-3 counts as dc
unless otherwise instructed) (40 sc)
2. Working in FL, 4 dc in same sc as turning, (5 dc next sc) across; ch 1, turn. (200 dc)
3. Sc in 1st dc, ch 2, (sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc BETWEEN next 2 dc, ch 2,) 41
times; ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in last dc; ch 3, turn. (77 ch-2 lps)
4. Ch 3; (sc in next ch-2 lp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) 38 times, sc in next ch-2 lp, dc in next sc; join
with sl st in top of beg ch-3; ch 1, turn. (39 3-dc shells)
5. Sc in same dc as joining, ch 2, (sk next dc, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 2)
38 times, sc in next sc, ch 2, sl st in 1st sc to join; ch 1, turn. (78 ch-2 lps)
6. (Sc in next ch-2 lp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) 39 times; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, turn. (39 3-dc
shells)
7. Sc in same sc as joining, (ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 2)
77 times, ch 2, join with sl st in 1st sc; turn. (78 ch-2 lps)
8 – 17. Repeat rows 6 and 7 five times.
18. Repeat row 4 once more; FO red.
19. With RS facing and working in BL, join black in same place as joining on row 18; (sk next
dc, 5 dc in next sc, sk next dc, sc in next dc) around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO black.
Bodice:
1. With RS facing, join red with sc in 1st ch of foundation ch at waist, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next
18 ch, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 17 ch, 2 sc in next ch, sc in last ch; ch 1, turn. (43 sc)
2. Sc in 1st sc, (ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sc) across; ch 3, turn. (21 ch-2 lps)
3. (Sc in next ch-2 lp, 3 dc in next ch-2 lp) 10 times, sc in next ch-2 lp, dc in last sc; ch 1, turn.
(10 3-dc shells)
4. Sk 1st dc, (sc in next sc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 10 times, sc in next 2
sc; ch 1, turn. (20 ch-1 sp)
5. Sk 1st sc, sc in next sc, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 8, sk next ch-1 sp,
(sc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, sc next 2 sc tog, skipping ch-1 sp bet them, (3 dc
11
in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 8, sk next ch-1 sp, (sc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next
ch-1 sp) twice, sc next sc and next ch-1 sp tog, sl st in last sc; ch 1, turn. (8 3-dc shells, 2 8-ch
straps, 1 sl st)
6. Sk next sl st, sc in next sc, (sc next 2 dc tog, sc next dc and sc tog) twice, (sc next 2 ch tog) 4
times, (sc next sc and dc tog, sc next 2 dc tog) twice, sl st in next sc, (sc next 2dc tog, sc next dc
and sc tog) twice, (sc next 2 ch tog) 4 times, (sc next sc and dc tog, sc next 2 dc tog) twice, sc in
last sc; ch 1, turn. (26 sc, 1 sl st)
Back edging and buttonholes:

1. Ch 1, working in row ends down right side of back, make 6 sc evenly spaced to waist, then
make 5 more sc from waist to bottom of back opening, sl st in center of back opening; moving up
the left side of back opening, make 5 sc to waist, then make 6 more sc from waist to top of left
back; turn. (22 sc, 1 sl st)
2. Sl st in next 11 sc, sk next sl st, sl st in next 5 sc; ch 4, sl st in same pl; (sl st in next 2 sc, ch 4,
sl st in same pl) twice; FO red.
3. With WS facing join black with sc in side of sc from row 1 at top corner of right side of
bodice; working in BL, (3 dc in next sc, sc in same sc, sc in next sc) 6 times, 3 dc in next sc, sc in
same sc, sl st in both lps of next sl st, (sc in next sc, 3 dc in same sc, sc in next sc) 6 times, sc in
next sc, 3 dc in same sc, sc in side of sc from row 1 at left corner of bodice; FO. (14 shells)
 Sew four 3mm pearl beads to left side of back bodice opposite button holes.
 With dampened fingers, shape gathers of skirt, and gently press collar shells downward to
create collar/ruffle of bodice.
 Sew or glue ¼-inch ribbon rose to center front of bodice.
 Thread a tapestry needle with a 14-inch length of ribbon, lacing it through the ch-2 spaces of
round 2. Begin at one waist edge and end at opposite waist edge, leaving a 5-1/2-inch length of
ribbon at each side. Place dress on bear and with buttons closed, tie sash into a bow. Trim ends
to desired length.
HAT
1. Ch 2 with red, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
7. Working in BL for this round, 2 sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, do not turn. (48
sc)
8. Ch 1, sc in same pl as joining, (ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 23 times; ch 1, sc in 1st sc. (24
ch-2 lps)
9. Ch 1, sc in same lp, (ch 2, sc in next ch-2 lp) 23 times; ch 1, sc in beg sc. (24 ch-3 lps)
10. Ch 1, sc in same lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-2 lp) 23 times; ch 1, hdc in beg sc. (24 ch-3 lps)
11. Ch 1, turn, sc in same lp, (3 dc in BL of next sc, sc in next ch-3 lp) 23 times, 3 dc in BL of
next sc; join with sl st in 1st sc. (24 ch-3 shells)
 Glue or sew flower to front left of hat at edge of brim.
12
 Make a ¾" bow with trailing tails and glue or sew to back of hat at edge of brim.
 Sew or pin hat to head.
 Sew a ribbon rose to bear’s head under hat brim next to ear.
BLOOMERS
1. With black ch 46, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 1, turn. (45 sc)
2 – 3. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (45 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc across; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1. (45 sc)
5. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; do not join or turn – you’ll now begin working in
rounds; place marker to identify beg of round. (45 sc)
First Leg:
10. Sc in next 23 sc, ch 8, sk 22 sc, sl st in next sc; do not turn. (23 sc, 8 ch, 1 sl st)
11. Sc in next 22 sc, sc in next 8 ch; place marker. (30 sc)
12. Sk next sl st, sc in next sc and in ea sc around. (30 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around; sl st in BL of next sc. (30 sc, 1 sl st)
20. Ch 3, 2 dc in BL of same sc, working in BL, sc in next sc, (3 dc in next sc, sc in next sc) 14
times; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3; FO. (15 3-dc shells)
Second leg:
10. Join with sc in 1st free lp of opposite side of ch-8 at crotch; sc in next 7 free lps, make next
sc in same sc as next sc from 1st leg, sc in next 21 sc, make sc2tog as follows: (sc next sc and sc
from prev row containing next sc from 1st leg) tog; do not join, place rnd marker. (30 sc)
13 – 20. Repeat rows 13 – 19 of first leg.
Waist:
With black ch 25; with RS facing, join with sc in 1st free lp of opposite side of beg ch at left edge
of waist, sc next 2 free lps tog, sc in next 5 free lps, (sc next 2 free lps tog, sc in next 7 free lps) 3
times, sc next 2 free lps tog, sc in next 6 free lps, sc next 2 free lps tog; ch 30; FO, pulling end of
thread to tighten.
 Clip thread near the end of each tie; put a little fray stop on ends if desired.
 Put the bloomers on the bear with ties at back; tie into bow.
SHAWL
1. With black ch 105, hdc in 5th ch from hook, (ch 1, sk next ch, hdc in next ch) across; turn.
(51ch-1 sp)
2. Sl st in 1st ch-1 sp, sl st in next hdc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next hdc, hdc in next ch-1
sp, (ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in next ch-1 sp) 46 times; turn. (47 ch-1 sp)
13
 Note: The side edges of your piece should look like stair steps.
14. Sl st in 1st ch-1 sp, sl st in next hdc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next hdc, h dc in next ch-1
17.Sl st in 1st ch-1 sp, sl st in next hdc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next hdc, hdc in next ch-1
sp, ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in next ch-1 sp; turn. (2 ch-1 sp)
18. Sl st in 1st ch-1 sp, ch 5, sk next hdc, sl st in next ch-1; FO. (ch-5 lp)
 Weave loose ends.
HANDBAG
1. With black ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
4. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. Sl st in next sc, ch 1, hdc in same sc as sl st and in next 17 sc; join with sl st in 1st hdc. ( 18
hdc)
6 - 7. Ch 1, hdc in ea hdc around; join with sl st in 1st hdc. (18 hdc)
8. Ch 1, hdc in a hdc around; join with sl st in BL of 1st hdc. (18 hdc)
9. Ch 25, sk next 8 hdc, sl st in BL of next hdc; FO.
10. With RS facing and working in FL, join trim color with sc in any hdc, (ch 2, sc in next hdc)
17 times, ch 2; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (18 ch-2 lps)
14
 Thread a needle with a 12 inch length of red; sew a gathering stitch around row 8. Put a small
amount of stuffing into bag. Pull ends of thread to gather; tie into a tiny bow. Trim ends.
For questions or to report errors, notify the designer at bluebearymailbox@aol.com.

Happy crocheting!!
Some Internet Sources for Supplies
Crochet Thread, Tatting Thread and Yarn:

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/ (Valdani thread, nylon thread)
http://www.joann.com
www.createforless.com
Eyes, Cotter Pins and Disks:

http://www.tedsfromthreads.com
http://www.edinburghimports.com/index.asp
http://www.sassybearsandfabrics.com/
http://www.bearycheap.com/index.html
Crochet Hooks:
http://www.joann.com
Upholstery Thread:
http://www.edinburghimports.com/index.asp
15
Steel Shot:
Nylon Thread:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Tiny Buttons and Ribbon Roses:

www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Supplies for Mini-Bears, Europe:

http://www.haja-bears.com/shoppart1en.html
www.threadteds.com
Pictorial Guide to Jointing
16
17
Copyright 2012 by Sue Pendleton – All rights reserved. This pattern may not be used for
mass-production. The purchaser of this pattern may, however, sell the items he or she creates
from it.
18
Southern Belle Lulu By Sue Pendleton
19

BBT052 Southern Belle Lulu

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

BBT052 Southern Belle Lulu

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Southern Belle Lulu BBT052

A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton

Comparison Between Perle Cotton and Crochet Cotton:

Perle Size Crochet Size

Materials & Supplies for Southern Belle Outfit:

Guide to Making Southern Belle Lulu in Other Sizes

THREAD/YARN HOOK EYES JOINT HARDWARE APPROX SIZE

20. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)

Nose, Mouth, Eyebrows:

Ears (Make 2):

 Stuff body firmly.

 Begin stuffing arm.

 Begin stuffing arm.

Attach arms: (See pages 17-18 for photographic jointing guide)

 Stuff foot, shaping with fingers to keep sole as flat as possible.

 Continue stuffing leg.

 Finish stuffing leg firmly. Close end same as arms.

Back edging and buttonholes:

 Glue or sew flower to front left of hat at edge of brim.

 Weave loose ends.

For questions or to report errors, notify the designer at bluebearymailbox@aol.com.

Some Internet Sources for Supplies

Crochet Thread, Tatting Thread and Yarn:

Eyes, Cotter Pins and Disks:

Tiny Buttons and Ribbon Roses:

Supplies for Mini-Bears, Europe:

Pictorial Guide to Jointing

You might also like