Amigurumi Flower Fairies BBT030

A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton

Phone: (830) 896-9616
Email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com
 ABBREVIATIONS

beg – begin/beginning lp(s) – loops

bet -- between mm – millimeter(s)
BL – back loop pl – place
ch – chain stitch rem – remaining
CL - Cluster rnd(s) – round(s)
cm – centimeter(s) RS – right side
cont -- continue sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr) sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
together sk – skip
ea – each Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
FL – front loop(s) Sp(s) – space(s)
FO – fasten off St – stitch
hdc – half double crochet tog -- together
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches WS -- wrong side
together YO – yarn over
inc – increase Yoh – yarn over hook

(Dolls are approximately 6 inches or 15 cm tall)

GENERAL MATERIALS LIST: Also see individual instructions for each

amigurumi. You can mix and match colors, eyes, and wings for many different looks.
• Double knitting or sport weight yarn (approx 100 yards for each animal)
• Size C hook (2.5 – 2.75mm)
• Two 9-mm plastic safety eyes
• One 1" cotter pin, one ¾" disk, one ½" disk
• Fiberfill for stuffing
• Embroidery floss – for features
• Upholstery or other strong thread, in color to match the body, for jointing
• Sewing Needles: 2-1/2-inch (6 cm) darner, 3.5 or 5" (8.5 to 12.5-cm) doll needle,
blunt tapestry needle
• Hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
• Watercolor pencils for shading -- rose pink, blue, and colorless blender (Prismacolor
used for model) (You can use powdered eye shadow and blusher as a good
alternative.)
• Fine-tip black marker for outlining eyes (optional)

MATERIALS FOR FAIRY COSTUME:

• Yarn in same weight as animal – Main Color (MC), Contrasting Color (CC) and
Green (Small amounts of each color)
• Yarn in same weight as animal – White for wings, small amount
• Size C crochet hook (2.5 –2.75mm)

2 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

• Two ¼" (6-mm) heart buttons OR one heart button and one 10" (25-cm) length of
ribbon to match skirt.
• White glue and glitter OR sparkly fingernail polish for wings (optional)

MATERIALS FOR FAIRY BAG:

Use the same colors as used for Fairy Costume, but switch MC and CC.
• Yarn in same weight as animal – Main Color (MC) – 100 yds, Contrasting Color
(CC) - 50 yds, and green – 50 yds.
• C crochet hook (2.5 –2.75mm)
• G hook for tie (3.5-mm)
• Large-eyed tapestry needle or bodkin
• 2.75" (7-cm) diameter circle cut from plastic

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:

ADJUSTABLE RING. Grasp the thread between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a
tail at the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise,
crossing the thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread
that you just crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop up from
underneath the front thread. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in the
left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the
ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with one hand and tail
with the other, pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten back against
hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip ch-1 and continue working pattern.

GAGE: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all
the pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting. The same weight yarn and hook size should be used for
all pieces unless otherwise indicated.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON STUFFING: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly
affect the quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be stuffed
firmly so that it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to
the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.

WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the bear, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the
needle through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and
clip close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can't hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave. To weave: Thread the

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 3

tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the piece and beginning directly beneath the
place where you fastened off, insert the needle underneath and through the upper loops of
fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same
stitches in the opposite direction.

AMIGURUMI CAT

ADDITIONAL INFO ON MATERIALS:

• Yarn colors – gray for cat, MC (bright red), CC (white), and bright
green for costume
• Green or blue eyes
• 6-mm chenille stem for tail
• Embroidery floss or perle cotton, pale rose and black

HEAD:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, and make 6 sc in ring; OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook. (6 sc) This is the center front of face.
2. 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
8. Sc in 4 sc, pl marker, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc
in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, pl marker, sc in next 4 sc. The markers will be left in
to help you place the cotter pin later. (46 sc)
9 - 14. Sc in ea sc around. (46 sc)
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 9 times, sc in last sc. (37 sc)
16. Sc in ea sc around. (37 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 6 times, sc in last sc. (31 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times, sc in last sc. (25 sc)

• The 3/4" disk will be used for the upper part of the head joint, and the ½" disk will be
used in the neck. Place the ¾" disk onto the cotter pin; insert the pin inside the head
and out the center bottom of the head bet rnds 12 and 13 (centered between the two
markers), easing the pin through carefully so as not to tear the thread.
• If using safety eyes, insert them now. For horizontal placement, count 6 rounds out to
the side from center; place a pin or other marker here. For vertical placement, count
about12 sc up from the cotter pin, straight up the side of the head along the same line
where the cotter pin is, then come straight inward toward the center, to the horizontal
position between rnds 6 and 7. Move the eye marker to this position. Insert the eye's
pin between stitches, then reach inside the head and firmly push the backing onto the
eye pin.

19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 5 times. (20 sc)

4 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

• Stuff the head, shaping as you go. Check shaping from all angles. You can change the
shape of the head by concentrating more stuffing in certain areas. For instance, I like
to make the cat and bunny heads more oval or triangular, and the bear head rounder,
so I'll add extra stuffing all around the bear head to achieve the round shape, and push
more into the top of the head and cheeks for the cat and bunny. Knead the head into
the desired shape.
• Stuffing is the key to a well-shaped thread animal. If a piece is not stuffed firmly
enough, it's not possible to obtain the correct shaping. Make sure the cotter pin is in
the right place; if not, pull out the stuffing and reposition.

20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times. (15 sc)

21. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times. (10 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) twice, sc2tog, sl st in next sc, do not work rem sc; FO, leaving
long end.

Note: As you sew, pull gently after each stitch to gather, rather than waiting and
trying to gather all the stitches at once. Grasp the thread firmly close to the stitches.

• Finish rounding out the back of the head with stuffing. Thread long end on needle and
weave a row of gathering stitches in and out around the FL of rnd 22; pull to gather;
fasten off, insert needle into head in same place where thread comes out, push through
head, and pull out another spot to hide thread end. Clip close to surface so that the end
disappears inside the head.

IF SEWING ON EYES: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to
locate the eye positions. Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread: Begin
by threading a sturdy needle, such as the milliner's needle, with the nylon or other strong
thread. If using wire-looped eyes, crimp the wire loop, if it's not pre-crimped, until you
can just get your needle through the loop; insert the needle through the loop (or bead),
pulling the thread into the loop, and then remove the thread from the needle. If you can't
get your needle through the wire or bead, insert the thread through first, then thread the
needle. Thread both ends back onto the needle, and then insert the needle into the first
eye location. *Bring the needle out the back or bottom of the head (depending on the
angle you want), pulling the thread until the wire loop touches the
face. Insert the crimped loop into the same place where the needle
went in (use a larger needle to make a tunnel for the loop if
necessary), pushing it flush against the face. Pull gently but firmly
on the thread to slightly imbed the eye into the face. Keeping the
thread taut so as not to allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle
back into the exact place,** then push through the head and out at
the second eye location. Insert the threaded needle through the eye
wire or bead (once again, if your needle won't go through the
opening, remove the thread from the needle, insert it through the
eye wire or bead, then rethread the needle). Insert the needle into
the 2nd eye location, then repeat * to ** to attach the 2nd eye,
bringing the needle out finally at the bottom of the head. Tie off the ends with a

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 5

surgeon's knot (see illustration at right), then thread the ends onto the needle and insert
back into the head in the same place where the knot is; pull though the head. Clip ends
close to the surface so that they disappear inside the head.

(See individual instructions for bear and bunny features.)

FACIAL FEATURES

NOSE, MOUTH, EYEBROWS: Thread 4 strands of rose pink floss onto needle that is
at least 2.5" long; knot the end. Insert needle into bottom of head; bring out between
bring out in the center of rnd 1. Gently tug the thread until the knot disappears inside the
head. Insert needle back into face, 2 rounds below (bet rnds 2 and 3), directly down from
exit point. Push needle back up and out same pl in ctr of round 1. *Insert needle back into
face 2 rnds below directly to the right or left of the center stitch, and back out the center
of rnd 1.**Repeat satin stitch between ** until you have a about ¼" (6-mm) wide, ending
at the bottom of the nose. Insert the needle back into the bottom edge of the nose, and
bring it out to the left or right of and abutting the center rectangle, {bet rnds 1 and 2.
Insert the needle back in one rnd below, abutting the end of the rectangle and having the
bottom even with the rectangle. Make two or three more stitches on top of the first one,
then insert the needle back into the bottom edge}, and out the OTHER side of the
rectangle. Repeat within { }, and then take the needle out the bottom of the head after the
last stitch is completed. Clip close to surface. If you wish, you might carefully paint the
nose with sparkly nail polish. The best time to paint the nose is after the cat is finished,
so that you won't have to handle it while the polish is drying.

• Thread the doll needle with 4 – 6 strands of black floss, knot the end and insert up
through bottom of head and out at bottom center point of nose. Make a straight vertical
stitch extending down toward the bottom of the head about 4 or 5 rnds.

• Make a "smile" line consisting of a long, horizontal straight stitch curved across the
bottom of the face in a U-shape. The center of it should touch the vertical line that comes
down from the nose. Anchor the bottom center of the smile stitch with a tiny stitch by
coming out at the bottom center of the smile, then going back in at the same place,
bringing the thread up and around the smile line thread to catch and secure it.

• Embroider a long, slanted straight st for each brow, beginning a couple of rnds behind
the outer edge of the eye and slanting upward about the length of 4 sc toward the center
top of the head.

• Use the rose pink pencil or makeup blush to shade cheek area.

• Use a blue or green pencil or eye shadow to shade between the eye and eyebrow.

EARS (MAKE 2):

1. Begin with an adjustable ring (see instructions at beginning); make 1 sc into ring; ch
1, turn. (1 sc) (Row 1 is the top of the ear.)

6 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

2. 4 sc in the one sc; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
4. Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing
ear to head.

ATTACH EARS: Weave the loose end from row 1 down one of the side of the ear as
inconspicuously as possible. Fold the ear in half vertically from top to bottom, bringing
ear fronts together at bottom. Place a pin down through the back of the ear at the center
point. Use the pin to locate the desired placement for the ears.
Sew ear to head using a ladder stitch (see illustration), keeping
the center back of the ear about the width of one rnd behind the
side edges. First make anchoring 3 anchoring stitches, one at
each end, and one at the center back of the ear. Now finish
sewing the ear to the head. Thread the tail remaining from row 1 onto a needle and pull it
through the head; clip close to surface.

• With a rose pink watercolor pencil or blush makeup, shade the inside of the ear, the
cheeks, and just under the mouth. (See Photos.)

BODY:
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join; place marker. (6 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times. (12 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)

• At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the bottom of the head into the center
of round 1 of the body. Place the ½" disk onto the cotter pin and push flush toward
head; then, reaching inside body with small pliers, curl each side of cotter pin toward
disk until it rests on the disk.

6 - 11. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)

12. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)

• Stuff body firmly.

13. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(8 sc)

• Finish stuffing.
• Thread end on needle, then run a row of gathering stitches in and out of the front lps
around rnd 13; pull firmly but carefully to gather and close. Insert the needle into the
body through bottom opening and out elsewhere on body, and, pulling yarn taut, clip
close to surface so that the end disappears inside the body.

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 7

ARM (MAKE 2):
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring, OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do
not join. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3 - 6. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
7. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times. (9 sc)
8 - 12. Sc in ea sc around; at end of rnd 12, FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for
closing. (9 sc)

• Stuff the arm. Make sure you stuff firmly, or the thread joint won't be strong and
secure.
• Using the long end, sew top of arm closed by going in and out of the outer lps of rnd 12
with a gathering stitch; then pull firmly but gently to gather and close. Hide the thread
end by inserting the needle into the center of the end of the arm and bring it out
elsewhere on the arm. Pass the needle through the arm once more to secure; clip
thread close to arm so that it disappears inside the arm.

ATTACH ARMS:
Use straight pins stuck through the tops of the arms to test for correct positioning of
arms. Thread a doll needle with a length of upholstery thread, doubled to 18 inches; do
not knot the end. Insert the needle into the first side of body. Push needle through body
and pull out at corresponding location on opposite side, leaving a 3 inch tail of thread
protruding from the 1st side. (Remember that the tops of the arms will form the
"shoulders" of the animal.) *Insert needle into limb from inner to outer side, then insert
needle back into outside of limb in exact place as exit spot and push back through to
inner side, dipping the needle down and back up as you do to grab some stuffing. Insert
the needle back into the body in the same place where the thread is coming out, through
the body, and out** the same spot where the original tail is protruding. Repeat * to ** for
2nd limb. Repeat the entire process beginning at * once more, using exactly the same
entry and exit places, so that the limbs will be secured. On the final pass-through, insert
the needle back into the thread joint once more, bring the needle back through the body
and out the opposite side near the joint; do not go back into the other limb. Tie off the
original tail with a surgeon's knot, then grasp the thread on the opposite side of the body
and pull firmly on the thread, tightening the limbs against the body. Cut the thread,
leaving a 3 or 4 inch tail. Tie the 2nd tail into a surgeon's knot, flush against the body.
Now thread the ends of the this tail onto the needle, insert needle back into the body at
the same spot, through body, and out the back. Tug on the thread until the knot slips
inside the body, and clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear inside the
body. Thread the ends of the original tail onto the needle. You won't be able to get to the
joint to insert this one into the same place where it originates, so insert the needle into the
body under the arm, as close to the joint as you can get, and pull the tail ends to the back;
clip them the same as you did for the other tail ends.

• Use the same color thread you used for the mouth to make 3 straight stitches on the end
of each paw.

8 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

LEGS (MAKE 2):
You'll begin crocheting the legs at the toe end.
1. Begin with an adjustable ring, make 6 sc in ring, OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (6
sc)
2. 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc. (12 sc)
3 - 4. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)

(Rounds 5 – 8 are the shaping rounds. The sl st's are on the front of the leg.)

5. Sc in next 7 sc, sl st loosely in next 5 sc. (7 sc, 5 sl st)

6 - 8. Sc in next 7 sc, sl st loosely in FL of next 5 sl st. (7 sc, 5 sl st)

• Stuff foot; add more stuffing every few rnds as you work. The legs will turn upward
and form the feet after the shaping rounds are completed. You can help the process by
pushing the leg forward at the heel, and pushing the stuffing down into the leg and into
the heel.

9 – 12. Sc in ea st around. (12 sc)

13. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc. (9 sc)

• Finish stuffing leg firmly.

• Use the same method for closing the top of the leg as used for the arms.

ATTACH LEGS:
Before beginning, use straight pins to determine the position of the leg. Check to make
sure that the bottoms of the legs will be even with the bottom of the body when the bear
is sitting. Attach the legs using the same procedure as used for the arms.

• Use the same color thread you used for the mouth to make 3 straight stitches on the end
of each paw.

TAIL:
1. Begin with an adjustable ring; make 5 sc into ring; do not join. (5 sc)

• Your work will try to turn inside out for the first couple of rnds. Use tweezers or
hemostat to turn back to right side.

2. 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc. (6 sc)

3 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)

• Insert the blunt end of your crochet hook into the tail to break loose any fibers that may
be catching inside that would prevent the stem from being inserted.
• Use pliers to turn down the end of the chenille stem just about ¼" (5mm) or so; crimp
the end tightly against the main stem. This will eliminate the possibility of the sharp
end coming out of the end of the tail. Insert chenille stem into tail. You'll work around
the stem from here on.

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 9

11 – 20. Sc in ea sc around; after rnd 20, FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for
sewing tail to body. (6 sc)

• Cut the chenille stem about 1/2" (1.2cm) from the last rnd of the tail. Determine where
you want to place the tail, probably between the 3rd and 4th rnd from the bottom,
centered on the lower back. Use a darner or other thick needle to insert into the back
at this location, creating a path for the end of the stem. Trim as much chenille off the
stem as you can, then insert the end into the kitty's lower back using the path you
created. Use a "screwing" motion to get it in. Sew tail to body. Curve the tail in a
pleasing way. The tail can be used to help her stand up when curved downward and
out.

AMIGURUMI BUNNY

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:
• White or ivory yarn for bunny, pink for ears
• MC (pink), CC (turquoise), and green for costume
• White for wings
• Embroidery floss – pink and black
• Pink or black eyes

HEAD: Follow the instructions for the cat head.

EYES: Use the instructions for the cat to attach the eyes.

• Use the micro tip pen and a dotting motion to draw a very fine line across the top of
each eye (optional). The line should be as close to the eye as possible.
• use 4 - 6 strands of pink embroidery floss to make a straight stitch about two rows
behind each eye. Make each brow about 5 sc in length.

NOSE: Using one 4 – 6 strands of pink embroidery floss, sew an inverted V in the
center of the face, with the inside of rnd 1 being the point of the V. Fill in the inverted V
with satin stitches between the 2 posts of the inverted V.

MOUTH: Continuing with the same thread, made a single vertical straight stitch,
beginning at the bottom center of the nose, and going 2 rnds downward. Use the
instructions for the "smile" line of the cat face, but make the rabbit's smile line about ½ as
wide.

• Shade the cheeks with the pink pencil.

EAR BACKS (MAKE 2):

1. Ch 10 with rabbit color, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch; ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

10 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

2. (Row 2 is the front of the ear.) Sc in next 4 sc, hdc in next 4 sc, 3 dc in next sc, move
on around and make 3 dc in 1st free lp, hdc in next 4 free lps, sc in next 4 free lps; FO,
leaving long end to sew ear to head. (8 sc, 8 hdc, 6 dc)

EAR FRONTS (MAKE 2):

1. Ch 10 with pink, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch; FO. (9 sc)
2. Join bunny color with sl st in 1st free lp of ch-10, ch 1, sc in same pl, sc in next 3 free
lps, hdc in next 4 free lps, 3 dc in next free lp, move on around and make 3 dc in 1st sc,
hdc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc; FO, leaving long end to sew ear front and back together.
(8 sc, 8 hdc, 6 dc)

• Holding the front and back with WS together, sew the two pieces together using a
ladder stitch through the outer loops of row 2 of each piece.
• Count 6 rnds forward from the center rnd of the back of the head; ear may be placed
between rnd 5 and 6, with the center of the ear in line with the inside edge of the eye.
Using pins, experiment with ear placement until you find the look that's pleasing to you.
Sew the ear to the head, with the back edge of the vertical fold between rnds 5 and 6, and
the front edge between rnds 7 and 8 (or placement of your choosing). Leave the width of
about 3 sc between the ears.

BODY. Use the instructions for the cat body.

ARMS. Use instructions for the cat arms. Use one strand of pink floss to embroider the
claw stitches.

LEGS. Use the instructions for the cat legs. Use one strand of pink floss to embroider
the claw stitches.

TAIL:
Note: I prefer to use the WS as the outside of the tail, but it's your choice. If you do opt
to have the WS outside, you may want to crochet from the inside so you won't have to
turn the piece at the end.

1. With rabbit color , begin with an adjustable loop, make 6 sc in loop; OR ch 2, 6 sc in

2nd ch from loop; do not join. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
6. Sc2tog 9 times; FO, leaving long end. (9 sc)

• Stuff tail, not too firmly.

• Gather and close; hide thread end inside tail.
• Sew tail to center of lower back.

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 11

 AMIGURUMI BEAR

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:
• Oatmeal or light brown yarn for bear
• MC (coral), CC (pale yellow), and light green for costume
• White or ivory for wings (wings are optional)
• Dark brown or black eyes
• Very dark brown, or black embroidery floss

HEAD: Follow the instructions for the cat head.

EYES: Use the instructions for the cat to attach eyes.

NOSE: Embroider the nose in a triangle shape using satin stitch with 4 strands of floss.
Using the 2.5" needle, begin by knotting the thread and inserting the needle up through
the bottom of the head, and coming out at center top of rnd 2 (bet rnd 2 and 3). Tug to
pull knot inside head. Now bring the needle straight down from the exit point, and insert
back into the face under rnd 1 at the bottom end (bet rnd 1 and 2), or where you want the
longest point of the nose to be. This will be the bottom point of the triangle for all the
nose stitches. Make another stitch over the first one, *then make the next stitch beginning
at the bottom center of the nose, and ending in the space 1 sc to the right of the last stitch.
Repeat to the left.** Repeat * to ** once. Now fill in the nose with satin stitch. To
make the top of the nose look more even, you can make a horizontal straight stitch,
coming out at the top left edge of the nose, and going back in at the top right edge; bring
the thread back out at the center bottom point of the nose.

MOUTH: Continuing with the same thread, made a single vertical straight stitch,
beginning at the bottom center of the nose, and going 5 rnds downward. Use the
instructions for the "smile" line of the cat face.

BROWS: Embroider a straight stitch above each eye to create brows, making each brow
1 or 2 sc long.

• Shade the cheeks with the pink pencil.

EARS (MAKE 2): If you want very small ears, FO after row 3. For medium ears, FO
after row 4. For ears as shown in the photo, finish through row 7.

1. With bear color, begin with an adjustable ring, make 5 sc in ring, OR ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd
lp from hook; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, 2 sc in last sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
5. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2
sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
6. Sc in next sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

12 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

7. Sc in next sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing ear to head.
(4 sc)

ATTACH EARS:
Row 7 is on the front of the ear. Run the blunt end of your crochet hook along the
inside of row 4 to smooth it out. Sew the bottom edges together, then use pins to help
you locate the position of the ears. (I placed them on the side of the head, between rnds
14 and 15.) When you've decided where you want the ears, thread a needle with the long
end, and use a ladder stitch to sew the ears to the head. Use a brown pencil or eye
shadow to shade the inside of the ear.

BODY. Use the instructions for the cat body.

ARMS. Use instructions for the cat arms. Use 4 strands of dark brown floss to
embroider the claw stitches.

LEGS (Make 2)
1. Ch 7, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook; sc in next 5 ch, sc in end of last sc made; continuing
around to the other side of ch, 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 5 free lps, sc in end of last sc
made; do not join; place marker. (16 sc)
2 – 3. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc) Turn foot right side out if necessary.
4. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to start next rnd here (does not change stitch count);
sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc in next 5 sc. (13 sc)
5. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc in next 3 sc. (10 sc) Stuff foot.
6. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
7. Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc. (11 sc)
8. Sc in ea sc around. (11 sc)
9. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to start next rnd here; sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc,
sc in next 5 sc. (12 sc)
10. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)

• Stuff leg.

11. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing.

• Finish stuffing. Thread end onto a needle; sew leg opening together with seam running
front to back, using FL only of each side of seam; run the needle through the leg a couple
of times to secure. Trim thread close to surface.
• With 4 strands of dark brown embroider floss, make 3 straight stitches on front of each
foot for claws.
• Use instructions given for cat to attach legs.

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 13

 FAIRY OUTFIT
SKIRT:
1. With CC ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 3, sl st in end of last
sc (buttonhole made); FO. (20 sc, ch-3 buttonhole)
Note: If you want to close the back with a ribbon tie instead of a button, omit the ch-3 ,
sl st, and FO after the last sc.
2. With RS facing, and working in free lps across beginning ch, join MC with sl st in 1st
free lp, (ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch, sl st in next free lp on waist band,
turn, sc in next 3 sc on petal, ch 2, turn, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 sc on petal,
sl st in next free lp on waist band, turn, sc in next 3 sc on petal, ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 sc
on petal, sl st in next free lp on waist band) rep within ( ) 5 times across to end of waist
band; sl st in last free lp, FO. (6 petals)

BIB:
1. With RS of skirt facing, join green with sc in BL of 1st sc, sc in BL of ea sc across;
FO. (20 sc)
2. With RS facing, sk 8 sc, join green with sl st in next sc, ch 1, sc in same pl, sc in next
3 sc, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
3. Sc in next 4 sc, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
4. Sc in next 4 sc, ch 9, sk 6 sc after edge of bib on waist, join with sl st in next sc on
waist; FO; with RS facing, join green with sl st in 1st sc at top edge of bib to your right,
ch 9, sk 6 sk to the right, join with sl st in next sc to the right; FO. (4 sc, 2 ch-9 straps
made)

• Sew a heart button to the center front of the bib..

• Sew a heart button to the end of the waist band opposite the button hole.
• Alternate back closing: Put the dress on the doll. Cut a 10-inch (25-cm) length of
¼"-wide (6mm) ribbon to match the skirt; thread it onto a tapestry needle; thread the
ribbon through the end of the waist band (between last 2 sc) on one edge, then on the
other edge. Pull until both tails are the same length, then tie and pull the ends of the
skirt together; tie into a bow. Trim the ends to the desired length, and finish with a tiny
bit of fray stop on the ends
• For a little extra pizzazz, you might paint the buttons with glittery nail polish.

FLOWER CAP:

1. With green, begin with an adjustable ring and make 6 sc into ring, OR ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd
ch from hook; do not join. (6 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice. (8 sc)
3 – 5. Sc in ea sc around. (8 sc)
6. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times. (15 sc)
8. Working this rnd in FL, (sl st in next sc, ch 3, dc in same pl as sl st, ch 2, sl st in FL
and left bar of the dc just made, dc in same pl as last dc, ch 3, sl st in same pl as dc, sl st
in next sc); repeat within ( ) 7 times, FO with sl st in FL of last sc. (7 petals)

14 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

9. You worked rnd 8 in the FL, so you have the BL of those same stitches available in
which to work rnd 9. With outer edge facing you, stem down, join MC with sl st in the
free lp behind any petal on rnd 8, [ch 4, tr in same pl, ch 2, sl st in FL and left bar of the tr
just made, tr in same pl as last tr, ch 4, sl st in same pl as triple, (sl st in next free lp)
twice], repeat within [ ] 8 times; join with sl st in 1st sl st; FO, leaving long end for
sewing cap to head. (8 petals)

• Gently pull the petals into shape with your fingers. Place the cap on the head and tack
in place.

WINGS DESIGN A
FIRST WING:
1. Leave a tail at the beginning, which will be used later to sew
the wings to the back. With wing color (Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from
hook) twice; turn. (2 ch-4 rings)
2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 4 dc in next ch-4 ring (2nd ch-4 lp is not
worked in at this time.); ch 1, turn. (5 dc)
3. Sc in same pl as turning, (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc) twice;
ch 1, turn. (2 ch-3 sp)
4. Sc in 1st sc, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next sc) twice; do not turn. (4 ch-3 sp)
5. (Row 5 is the RS.) Continue along the side of the wing, working in row ends: (ch 3,
sl st in next row end) 3 times along edge of wing toward center; sl st in beg ch-4 ring;
FO.

SECOND WING:
1. With WS facing and leaving a tail at the beginning, join wing color with sl st in
second ch-4 ring; ch 3, 4 dc in ring; ch 1, turn. (5 dc)
2. Sc in same pl as turning, (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc) twice; ch 1, turn. (2 ch-3 sp)
3. Repeat row 4 of first wing.
4. Repeat row 5 of first wing.

• Optional – lay the wings on a protected surface and brush white glue over the RS,
sprinkle with glitter; OR brush with sparkly nail polish. Let dry.
• Tack the wings to the upper back between the shoulders.

WINGS DESIGN B:
FIRST WING:
1. Leaving an 8-inch tail at the beginning, ch 5 with white, sl st in
5th ch from hook to form a ring; (ch 10, sc in ring) 3 times, ch 5,
turn. (3 10-ch lps)
2. (Row 2 is the RS) Sc in 1st ch-10 lp, ch 4, sc in same pl, (ch 6,
sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, sc in next ch-10 lp, ch 4, sc in
same pl) twice, ch 5, sl st in beg ch-5 ring.

SECOND WING:

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 15

3. Ch 5, sl st in 5th ch from hook to form a second ring; turn, (ch 10, sc in ch-5 ring of
second wing) 3 times, ch 5, turn.
4. Sc in next ch-10 lp, ch 4, sc in same pl, (ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, sc in
next ch-10 lp, ch 4, sc in same pl) twice, ch 5, FO with sl st in
beg ch-5 ring of second wing, leaving an 8-inch tail at the end.

• Finish same as for wings A.

FAIRY POUCH
MATERIALS:
• Yarn in MC, CC, and green (Reverse the colors used for the fairy outfit or use colors
of choice.)
• G hook for tie (4 – 4.5mm)
• Large-eyed tapestry needle or bodkin
• Piece of stiff plastic, at least 3" (8-cm), such as coffee can lid

SPECIAL STITCHES:

Tr2tog: *YOH twice, insert hook into next st, yoh and pull up a loop, (YO and pull
through 2 loops on hook) twice** , repeat * to **, YOH and pull through all 3 lps on
hook.
V-st: (Tr, ch 1, tr) in same stitch.
3trCL: 3 tr cluster. *YOH twice, insert hook into next st, YO and pull up a lp, (YO and
pull through 2 lps on hook) twice**; repeat * to ** twice, YO and pull through all 4 lps
on hook..
BOTTOM OF BAG:
1. With CC and C hook ch 2, make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1,
do not turn. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 3, do not turn.
(12 sc)
3. Dc in same place as joining, 2 dc in ea sc around, join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch
3, do not turn. (24 dc)
4. Dc in same pl as joining, dc in next dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) around; join
with sl st in top of beg ch-3; FO. (36 dc)
5. With RS facing, join green with sl st in 1st dc, ch 1, 2 sc in same pl, (sc in next 2 dc, 2
sc in next dc, sc in next dc, 2 sc in next dc) 6 times, sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next dc, sc in
next 2 dc; join with sl st in 1st sc. (50 sc)

• Place the circle consisting of rows 1 – 5 onto the piece of plastic. Carefully trace
around the edges of the circle, then cut it out. Set aside.

6. Ch 3, 2 dc in same pl as joining, (sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, 5 dc in next sc)
9 times, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, 2 dc in same pl as beg ch-3; join with sl st in
top of beg ch-3; FO. (10 5-dc shells)

• Repeat rows 1 – 6 to make a 2nd piece, but don't cut out another plastic circle.

16 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

• Thread a length of the green yarn onto a tapestry needle. Place the 2 pieces of the
bottom WS together, matching up edges of shells and sc's. Sew together, placing
stitches around the outer edge of row 5 of both pieces. Pause about halfway around,
and insert the plastic circle between the 2 pieces. Finish sewing together.

7. Joining row. Working in the BL only of the side facing you, and both lps of the side
away from you, join MC with sl st in 3rd dc of any shell, ch 1, sc in same pl and in next 2
dc, (ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next 5 dc) 9 times, ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next 2 dc; join with sl
st in 1st sc. (50 sc, 10 ch-1 sp)

• The side toward you is now the bottom of the bag, and the RS. Makes a pretty coaster
too, doesn't it?

8. Ch 4, tr in next 2 sc, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next 5 tr, (ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, tr in next
5 sc, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next 5 sc) 4 times, ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, tr in next 2 sc; join
with sl st in top of beg ch-4; do not turn. (5 11-tr groups with ch-2 bet them)
9. Ch 4, tr in next 2 tr, 2 tr in next tr, tr in next 5 tr, (ch 2, tr in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, tr in
next 5 tr, 2 tr in next tr, tr in next 5 tr) 4 times, ch 2, tr in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, tr in next 2 tr;
join with sl st in top of beg ch-4; do not turn. (5 12-tr groups with 2 ch-2 sp bet them)
10. Ch 4, tr in next 9 tr, [(ch 2, tr in next ch-2 sp) twice, ch 2, tr in next 12 tr], repeat
within [ ] 4 times, (ch 2, tr in next ch-2 sp) twice, ch 2, tr in next 2 tr; join with sl st in top
of beg ch-4; do not turn. (5 12-tr groups with 3 ch-2 sp bet them)
11. Ch 4, tr in next 8 tr, 2 tr in next tr, (ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, tr in next tr, sk next ch-2 sp,
tr in next tr, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, 2 tr in next tr, tr in next 10 tr, 2 tr in next tr), repeat
within ( ) 4 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, tr in next tr, sk next ch-2 sp, tr in next tr, ch 2, sk
next ch-2 sp, 2 tr in next tr, tr in next tr; join with sl st in top of beg ch-4; do not turn. (5
14-tr groups)
12. Ch 4, tr in next 10 tr, (ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, tr2tog over next 2 tr {see Special Stitches
above}, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, tr in next 14 tr), repeat within ( ) 4 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2
sp, tr2tog over next 2 tr, ch 2, tr in next 3 tr; join with sl st in top of beg ch-4; do not turn.
(5 14-tr groups)
13. Ch 4, tr in next 8 tr, tr2tog, (ch 1, V-st in next tr {see Special Stitches above), ch 1,
tr2tog, tr in next 10 tr, tr2tog), repeat within ( ) 4 times, ch 1, V-st in next tr, ch 1, tr2tog,
tr in next tr; join with sl st in top of beg ch-4; do not turn. (5 12-tr groups)
14. Ch 4, tr in next 7 tr, tr2tog, (ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in
next tr, ch 1, tr2tog, tr in next 8 tr, tr2tog), repeat within ( ) 4 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp,
tr in next tr, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, ch 1, tr2tog; join with sl st in top of beg ch-4,;
do not turn. (5 10-tr groups)
15. Ch 4, tr in next 6 tr, tr2tog, (ch 1, tr in next 3 tr, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, tr2tog, tr in next
6 tr, tr2tog), repeat within ( ) 4 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, tr in next 3 tr, ch 1, sk next
ch-1 sp, dc in next tr (no, this is not a mistake; it simulates a tr2tog); join with sl st in top
of beg ch-4. (5 8-tr groups)
16. Ch 4, tr in next 2 tr, tr2tog, tr in next 3 tr, (ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, 3trCL over next 3 tr
{see Special Stitches above}, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, tr in next 3 tr, tr2tog, tr in next 3 tr) 4
times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, 3trCL, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp; join with sl st in top of beg ch-
4. (5 7-tr groups)

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 17

17. Sl st in next tr, ch 4, tr in next 3 tr, tr2tog, (ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, V-st in top of next
3trCl, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, tr2tog, tr in next 3 tr, tr2tog), 4 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp,
V-st in top of next 3trCl, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp; join with sl st in top of beg ch-4. (5 5-tr
groups with V-st between)
18. Sl st in next tr, ch 4, tr2tog, tr in next tr, (ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, tr in next
ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, ch 2, tr2tog, tr in next tr, tr2tog) 4 times, ch 2, tr in next tr, tr in next
ch-1 sp, tr in next tr, ch 2; join with sl st in top of beg ch-4. (5 3-tr groups)
19. Ch 4, tr2tog, (ch 2, tr in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, 3trCL over next 3 tr) 9 times, ch 2, tr in
next ch-2 sp, ch 2; join with sl st in top of beg CL; FO. (10 3trCL, 20 ch-2 sp)
20. Join CC with sl st in top of 1st 3trCL, ch 4, (2 tr in next ch-2 sp, tr in next tr, 2 tr in
next ch-2 sp, tr in next CL); repeat within ( ) 9 times around, 2 tr in next ch-2 sp; join
with sl st in top of beg ch-3. (60 tr)
21. Eyelet round. Ch 4, (sk next tr, dc in next tr, ch 1) around; join with sl st in 3rd ch of
beg ch-4, ch 1, do not turn. (30 ch-1 sp)
22. Sc in same pl as joining, sc in ea ch-1 sp and dc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO.
(60 sc)
23. Join green with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join
with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (60 sc)
24. Working in FL, sc in same pl as joining, (sk next sc, 4 dc in next sc, sk next sc, sc in
next sc) 14 times, sk next sc, 4 dc in next sc, sk next sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn.
(15 4-dc shells)
25. (Wrist Strap) With WS facing and working in the free lps from row 25, sc in next
free lp behind next shell, sc in next 2 free lps; ch 1, turn. (3 sc)
26 - 80. (Or until strap is about 10 inches long (25-cm) Sc in next 3 sc; ch 1, turn; FO
after last row, leaving 6-inch (15-cm) tail. (3 sc)

• Thread the yarn end onto a tapestry needle. Fold the end of the strap down toward the
outside of the bag until the last row of the strap is on top of the 1st row of the strap.
Slide the last row to your left until the edge is next to and just touching the 1st edge.
Flip the free end of the strap over, counter-clockwise, once again abut the end attached
to the purse against the free end. Sew the free end of the strap in place, using 3 free
loops directly to the left of the free loops used to begin row 25.
• Tie: Leaving a 3-inch (15-cm) tail at both ends: Hold one strand each of MC, CC and
green together, and using the G crochet hook, ch 115 or until the chain is about 30"
long. Tie a knot in each tail, just below the end of the chain.
• Thread one of the tails onto a tapestry needle and weave the chain around the eyelet
row (21), beginning directly opposite the wrist strap.

If you have questions or wish to notify the designer of errors, send an email to
bluebearymailbox@aol.com. Happy crocheting!

18 Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton

 Some Internet Sources for Supplies:

Yarn: www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
www.anniesattic.com Chenille Stems:
www.littleknits.com www.orientaltrading.com
www.joann.com createforless.com
Eyes, Cotter Pins and Disks: Ribbons:
www.edinburghimports.com www.mjdesigns.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com www.joggles.com
www.createforless.com Doll and Tapestry Needles:
Crochet Hooks: www.joann.com
www.anniesattic.com www.createforless.com
www.joanns.com www.joggles.com
www.maggiescrochet.com Prismacolor Pencils:
Upholstery Thread: www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.edinburghimports.com www.orientaltrading.com
Heart Buttons: Micron Fine-Line Pens:
www.createforless.com www.orientaltrading.com

Note: It's always a great idea to check www.ebay.com and www.etsy.com for craft
supplies.

Copyright 2010 by Sue Pendleton. All rights reserved.

This pattern may not be used for purposes of mass production. The owner of the pattern
may, however, sell the items he or she makes from it.

Amigurumi Flower Fairies By Sue Pendleton 19

To see more designs by Sue Pendleton, visit:

www.etsy.com/shop/BluebearyTreasures
www.ravelry.com/designers/sue-pendleton
www.artfire.com/users/SuePendleton