A Mohair Teddy Bear In Crochet BBT026

A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton

Phone: (830) 896-9616

Email: bluebearymailbox@aol.com
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Bears above, below right and on the cover were crocheted from Katia Ingenua.

Larger bear in photo on the left was crocheted from 2 strands of punch thread; smaller
bear from Crystal Palace Kid Mohair.
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MATERIALS NEEDED: (See page 20 for list of internet sources for supplies.):
• Katia Ingenua, or other worsted weight mohair yarn in off-white, or color of
choice – makes a bear about 5.5" or 14cm. (1 ball [153 yds] makes two bears)
• Size 5 (1.9 mm) crochet hook
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Two 4-mm black or blue teddy bear eyes, or onyx beads
• Ten 3/8" (7 mm) joint disks
• Five 3/4" (1.9 cm) cotter pins
• Black embroidery thread
• Upholstery or other strong thread in color similar to bear for jointing
• 2 round-head straight pins to assist with eye placement
• Black nylon or other strong thread for attaching eyes (nylon thread will fit into the
beading needles, and is very strong)
• Needles: 2.5" (6.5 cm) milliners, beading, small tapestry, small sewing
• Finger Mohair Brush
• Small, sharp scissors
• Small hemostat, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
• Black fine tip marker, such as Micron .20mm
• Brown pencil or eye shadow for shading eye area and inside ears
• Pink pencil or blusher for shading cheeks

See instructions beginning on page 14 for supplies needed for accessories.

List of Abbreviations – Page 19.

Some Tools of the Trade

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GAGE: Since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is suggested that when
making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, you complete both in
one sitting.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON STUFFING: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly
affect the quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be stuffed
firmly so that it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to
the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.

WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the bear, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the
needle through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and
clip close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can't hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
TO WEAVE: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the piece and
beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle underneath
and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then turn and
repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.

NOTES ON CROCHETING WITH EYELASH YARN OR MOHAIR:

How to work: When mohair or other fuzzy, furry, or eyelash
yarn is used to crochet in the usual way, the fuzzier side ends up
being the wrong side. Therefore, when working with mohair, the
bear is worked from the inside so that the furrier side will be on the
outside. In addition, the stitches are worked in the back loop (BL)
only. Working the stitches in the BL makes this type of thread
much easier to crochet with, and allows more of the "fur" to be
free, resulting in a furrier bear. The beginning tail of yarn will be
on the outside of the piece, so you'll need to thread it onto a needle
after you've worked a few rounds, and pull it to the inside of the
piece you're working on.
Pulling out stitches. This kind of yarn can be unforgiving if you make a mistake and
have to pull stitches out, so extra care is needed in following instructions and marking
rounds. However, if you find that you must ravel some of your work, you'll have to work
stitch by stitch with some yarns. Here's the technique that I use:
1. With the working side facing you, carefully pull out as many stitches as will come
apart easily.
2. Concentrating on one stitch at a time, use a small tapestry needle and an outward
motion to gently coax the fibers free from the stitch until it is loosed enough to pull out.
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BRUSHING. If you use mohair yarn or punch thread, the bear can be brushed up with
the finger brush to be as furry as you wish. The more you brush it, the furrier it will be.
You need to brush each piece as you complete it so that you can get to all areas. First
brush front to back, then back to front, then side to side, until the piece is as furry as you
want it. The brushing is optional, but you will then need to trim the piece whether or not
you have brushed it. There may be times when you are going for the unkempt look and
can omit the trimming, but usually you'll want a neater look.

TRIMMING. Trimming the bear is rather like giving a haircut to a person with short
hair. Keep in mind that you can always take off more, but you can't put it back if you cut
too much. For this size bear, I like to end up with "fur" that's about ¼" (6 mm) long, but
you can make it shorter or longer, depending on the look you want for the final product.
You will cut in one direction with small, sharp scissors. Pull up the fur between your
fingers in the section that you are going to trim, then
move the scissors along, snipping small sections at a time,
following the shape of the piece and keeping the length
the same all over. For instance, when trimming the head,
start with the muzzle. Pull the fur on the front of the
muzzle straight out, then trim from bottom to top (you'll
want to trim fairly close in the area where the nose will
be, but you can do that later). Next pull up the fur on the
top of the muzzle, straight up, and trim from front to
back; move downward to the next section adjacent to the area that you just trimmed, and
do the same. Then, pull up the hair in a section going around the head from the top edge
of the muzzle to the bottom edge of the muzzle, and trim around. Move to the section of
fur next to the part that you just trimmed, and do the same. Work around the head in this
manner, and complete trimming of each piece similarly. Be aware that handling of the
mohair causes more "hairs" to be released, so you will need to give your bear a final trim
after you've finished assembling it.

HEAD:
1. With bear color ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch; moving
around to opposite side of chain, 2 sc in 1st free lp on this side, sc in next 4 ch, do not
join – use a short piece of contrasting thread as a marker. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (16 sc)
4 - 5. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
6. Sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. (20 sc)
• Place a marker in the next stitch which you will leave in to mark the bottom center of
the muzzle, and help with placement of the cotter pin later.
7. Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 14 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (34 sc)
8. Sc in next sc; move rnd marker to begin rnd here (this is to move the beginning of the
rnd back to center, and does not change the stitch count); sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of
next 3 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc
in next 6 sc. (42 sc)
9. Sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc. (40 sc)
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10. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in next 12 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (36 sc)
11– 12. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
13. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 11 sc. (34 sc)
14 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
16. Sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc;
sc2tog; sc in next sc. (30 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (24)

• At this point stuff the muzzle with small pieces of fiberfill so that you can get a better
idea of where center is, then place a disc onto a cotter pin. Insert the pin into the
head and out the center bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line
with the middle of the snout (use the marker to help you), easing the pin through
carefully so as not to tear the thread. Unfortunately, it's very difficult to know
whether the pin is centered until the head is stuffed, so continue stuffing the head so
that you can be sure you have the joint in the right place. If you find that the cotter
pin is off-center, take the stuffing out and do it again, adjusting the cotter pin to
center.

19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times. (16 sc)

• Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Don’t forget to fill out the cheek
area on each side of the snout. Check shaping from all angles.

20. Keeping stitches as tight as possible, sc2tog 8 times; FO, leaving long end for sewing.

Whether or not you should use the long end left over from closing to sew the openings on
your bear pieces depends upon the type of yarn you are using. Generally the mohair type
yarn can be used to close your pieces without too much trouble, but if you find it too
difficult to sew with your yarn, use other thread in a similar color to do your sewing.

• Add as much stuffing as you need to in order to round out the back of the head.
• Thread the long end onto a tapestry needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and
out of the FL around rnd 20; pull gently but firmly to gather; FO. Run the needle
through the head and pull out another spot elsewhere on the head (always between
stitches, being careful not to catch the fabric) to secure and hide the thread end;
repeat if needed. Clip the thread close to the surface so that the end disappears
inside the head.

FACIAL FEATURES
ATTACH EYES: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate
the eye positions. Mark the position. If you want to shade the area behind the eyes with
a brown pencil or eye shadow, now is a good time. Sew the eyes on with black nylon or
other strong thread: Begin by threading a sturdy needle, such as the milliner's needle,
with the nylon or other strong thread.
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Wire loop eyes: Crimp the wire loop, if it's not pre-crimped, until you can just get your
needle through the loop; insert the needle through the loop, pulling the thread into the
loop, and then remove the thread from the needle. Thread both ends back onto the
needle, and then insert the needle into the first eye location. Bring the needle out the
back or bottom of the head (depending on the angle you want), pulling the thread until
the wire loop touches the face. Insert the crimped loop into the
same place where the needle went in (use a larger needle to enlarge
the hole to accommodate the loop if necessary), pushing it flush
against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the thread to slightly
imbed the eye into the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to
allow the eye to loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place,
then push through to another place on the bottom of the head, to
help anchor the thread. Remove the thread from the needle, and tie
the ends with a surgeon's knot (see diagram at right). Thread the
ends back onto the needle, then push the needle through to another spot on the bottom of
the head. Tug on the thread to force the knot inside the head. Pull the thread taut, and
clip close to surface so that the end disappears inside the head. Repeat the process for the
second eye.

Bead eyes: Use the same method as for wired eyes, but if you can't get the needle you're
using through the eye bead, remove the thread from the needle, insert it through the eye
bead, then rethread the needle. If you see small indentations on the back of the head
caused by attaching the eyes, insert the needle into the head sideways underneath the
stitches where the indentation is, and gently pull upward with the needle until the area is
even with the rest of the head.

• (Optional) Using the fine tip black marker, draw a fine line across the top of the eye
from one side to the other, and across the bottom of the eye from one side to the other.
Draw the line using a dotting motion, staying very close to the outer edge of the eye.

These instructions for facial features are suggestions only. Don’t be afraid to experiment
with eye, brow, nose, and mouth shape and placement, as well as ear placement.
Sometimes the most far-out facial renderings make the cutest bears.

NOSE, MOUTH, EYEBROWS:

Trim the muzzle where the nose will be created. Embroider the
nose in a triangle shape using satin stitch with black embroidery
floss or perle cotton (3 strands of embroidery floss were used for
the model). Begin by knotting the thread and inserting the needle
up through the bottom of the head or muzzle, and coming out at
center top of muzzle. Tug to pull knot inside head. Now bring the
needle straight down from the exit point, and insert back into the
muzzle where you want the longest point of the nose to be. This
will be the bottom point of the triangle for all the nose stitches.
Make another stitch over the first one, then make the next stitch beginning at the bottom
center of the nose, and ending to the right of the center stitch where you want the edge of
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the nose to be. Repeat to the left. Now fill in the nose with more stitches until it is the
desired width and thickness.
Purchased noses are available and are a cute alternative to an embroidered nose. They
come in a variety of shapes, colors and textures. If using a purchased nose with a wire
loop, attach it at the top end of the muzzle using the same procedure used for the eyes.
You may want to put a tiny bit of glue on the back of the nose to help it stay in place.
With the same thread used for nose, embroider 1 vertical straight stitch beginning at
bottom center of nose and going downward about 3 sc in length. Make an inverted v-
stitch for mouth, with center being at the bottom of the straight stitch that comes down
from nose. Embroider a straight stitch above each eye to create brows, making each brow
2 or 3 sc long.

EARS (MAKE 2):

Work the ears in both lps if you can manage it. If the yarn is too thick to enable you to
work in both lps, then work in the BL, and then brush the ears so that the "fur" will hide
the ridges formed by working in the BL.

1. With bear color ch 2, leaving a tail at the beginning that is long enough to thread onto
a needle and pull inside head; 5 sc in 2nd lp from hook; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, 2 sc in last sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc across; FO. (14 sc)

• When trimming the ear, leave a 1/8" – ¼" halo of fur across the edge of the ear.

ATTACH EARS: Row 4 is the front of the ear. Check for desired position of ears by
pinning them to the head. Pin at each end, and in the center. The ears should be cupped,
and the center of the ear should be placed about the width of 2 rnds behind the left and
right edges of the ear. The ends of the ears should be curved in slightly toward center.
When you've decided where you want to attach the ears, thread a needle with sturdy
thread as close to the color of the bear as possible, and sew the ears to the head. Thread
the loose tails onto a tapestry needle and pull through the head. Clip the ends close to the
surface so that they disappear inside the head. Use a brown pencil or eye shadow to
shade the inside of the ear cup.

ALTERNATIVE JOINTING – The following instructions for the arms, legs, and body
tell you how to make a bear using cotter pin and disks. Instructions for thread jointing
the arms and legs are provided after the section on making the body. The limbs and body
should be stuffed more firmly if thread joints are used, because under-stuffing will result
in thread joints that are of low quality that will loosen quickly.

RIGHT ARM:
1. With bear color ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in ea of next 2 ch; moving around
to work in free lps on opposite side of ch, 2 sc in ea of next 3 free lps; do not join, place
marker. (12 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
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3. (Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (14 sc)

4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (12 sc)
8. Sc in next 7 sc, sl st loosely in next 5 st. (7 sc, 5 sl st)
9. (Sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st) twice. (14 sc)

• Stuff hand.

10 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)

13. Sc in next 13 sc, hdc in next sc. (13 sc, 1 hdc)
14. 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 4 st, sl st loosely in next 4 st, sc in next 4 st.
(4 sl st, 8 sc, 3 hdc)
15. Sc2tog, sc in next 13 st. (14 sc)
16 - 19. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)

If disk-jointing: Push a disk onto a cotter pin. Find the hdc's at the elbow and the
shaping slip stitches on the inside of the wrist. The sl st's will be on the inner side of the
arm, toward the body, and the hdc's will be pointing downward. Insert the cotter pin
from inside the arm, between rounds 18 and 19, easing carefully between stitches, in the
center of the inner side of the arm on the same side as the wrist shaping stitches.

20. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice (cotter pin should be in line with the 3rd sc of the
second 5 sc). (12 sc)
21. (Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) twice; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(10 sc )

• Finish stuffing.
• Thread long end on needle, then sew the opening closed with a ladder stitch (see
diagram on page 3). Insert the needle into the top of arm out elsewhere on arm,
pulling thread taut. Pull on thread firmly and clip close to arm so that it disappears
into arm.
• Use one or two strands of black floss to embroider 3 evenly spaced vertical straight
stitches on the end of each paw.

LEFT ARM:
nd
1. With bear color ch 4, 2 sc in 2 ch from hook, and in ea of next 2 ch; moving around
to work in free lps on opposite side of ch, 2 sc in ea of next 3 free lps; do not join, place
marker. (12 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (12 sc)
8. Sl st loosely in next 5 st, sc in next 7 sc. (5 sl st, 7 sc)
9. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc)
twice. (14 sc)
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• Stuff hand.

10 – 13. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)

14. Sc in next 4 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next
sc. (3 hdc, 4 sl st, 8 sc)
15. Hdc in next st, sc in next 12 st, sc2tog. (hdc, 13 sc)
16 - 19. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)

If disk jointing, use the instructions given for the right arm to insert the cotter pin.

20. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice. (12 sc)

21. (Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog) twice, FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(10 sc )

• Finish same as right arm.

LEGS: (Make 2)
1. Ch 7 with bear color, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch; moving around to work
on opposite side of ch, sc in next 5 free lps, 2 sc in next free lp; do not join; place marker.
(14 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(20 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 8 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(30 sc)
4 - 5. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in next 8 sc. (23 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (does not change total stitch count),
sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (21 sc)
8. Sc in next 4 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. (16 sc)
9. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (14)
1. Stuff foot, shaping with fingers to keep sole as flat as possible.
10. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6
sc. (13 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
12. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (these 2 sc should be at the center front of the leg), sc
in next 6 sc. (14 sc)
13. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (16)
14 - 19. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
20. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)

• Insert cotter pin in left leg: Place a disk onto a cotter pin. Sk 3 sc after last sc made,
and insert the pin from the inside to outside between the 3rd and 4th sc, and between
rnds 19 and 20. Make sure the pin is at the center point of the inner leg.
• Insert cotter pin in right leg: Place a disk onto a cotter pin. Check to make sure that
you are placing the joint on the INNER leg: Place the leg on the surface in front of
you, with the sole of the foot down and the toe pointing away from you. Put the left
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leg beside the right one, and mark the inner side of the right leg. Skip 9 sc from
center back of right leg, and insert the pin between the 9th and
10 sc, and between 18 and 19.
• Hold the two legs side by side to make sure the pins are at the
same level on both. Adjust the pin for the right leg if necessary,
moving it up or down until both pins are on an even level.

Note: It's very important that both legs are the same length,
and that the pins are at the same level on both.

21. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing.
(12 sc)

• Finish stuffing the leg.

• Use the same method to close the top as used for the arms.
• Make 3 or 4 straight stitches on each foot for claws.

BODY:
1. With bear color ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join; place rnd marker. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next
sc) twice. (16 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times. (20 sc)
5. Sc in next 5 sc, pl marker (this will be left in place to assist with arm placement), sc in
next 9 sc, pl another arm marker, sc in next 6 sc. (20 sc)
6. Sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc. (22 sc)
7. Sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, pl marker, which will be left in place to identity
center front, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc. (24 sc)

NECK JOINT: At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the bottom of
the head into the top of the center of round 1 of the body. Reach inside the body
to place a disk onto the cotter pin and push flush toward head; then, reaching
inside body with small pliers, curl each side of cotter pin outward and down
toward disk, until the curled leg is resting on the disk.

8. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next
8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc. (28 sc)
9 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)

ATTACH ARMS (if making cotter pin joints):

Both Arms: Insert the cotter pin into the shoulder, between stitches, one round below
and just slightly in front of the arm marker. Reach in and place a disk onto the cotter pin.
Complete same as neck joint above.

• Stuff the upper part of the body.

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11 - 15. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)

16. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc,
sc2tog, sc in next sc. (24 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
18. Sc in next 9 sc, which will put your finishing point at the center of the back; do not
work rem sc at this time; move rnd marker here. The total number of sc showing does
not change.

• With RS facing you, count 5 stitches to the right of last sc made; place a marker at
this point between the last two rows. Count 5 stitches to the left, beginning with last
sc made, and do the same. These are your leg placement markers.

19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)

20. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)

ATTACH LEGS (if making cotter pin joints):

Insert the cotter pin for the right leg into the hip, between stitches, one row above the leg
marker. Reach in and place a disk onto the cotter pin. Complete same as neck joint
above. Insert the next cotter pin into the right hip, between stitches, in the same place as
the left leg marker. Complete as for neck joint.

• Stuff body.

21. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)

22. Sc2tog 6 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing bottom. (6 sc)

• Finish stuffing. Keep in mind that the bear's body is designed to be narrow, so that
the limbs won't appear to be sticking out unattractively where they are jointed to the
body.
• Thread long end on needle, then sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the
front lps of row 22; pull to gather and close. Insert the needle into the body and out
elsewhere on body. Insert needle into exact spot where you just brought it out, and
then bring needle out again at a different place on opposite side of body. This will
secure the thread. Clip the thread close to body so that the end disappears inside
body.

ATTACH ARMS USING THREAD JOINTING METHOD:

Insert a straight pin through each arm at the place where the joint will be, in order to
experiment and find the correct placement. After you've decided where the arms will be
placed, mark the entry point for the joint on each side. Thread a 2½-inch needle with
upholstery or other strong thread in a color to match the bear; double but do not knot the
end. Insert needle into 1st shoulder; push needle through body and bring out at 2nd
shoulder. Pull thread through, leaving a 3-inch tail protruding from the 1st shoulder.
Insert the needle back into the bear one round below the exit point, push through the bear,
and bring it back out one round below the spot where the tail is protruding. Insert the
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needle back into the exact place from which the tail protrudes, then push it through the
body and back out the top of the stitch on the opposite side. *Insert needle into the arm
from the inside and push through to outside of arm. Insert needle back into arm in same
place where it came out, dipping the tip of the needle downward and then back up to
catch some stuffing as the needle passes through the arm; bring it out inside of the arm in
the exact spot where it went in. Insert the needle back into the body in the same place
where the thread is protruding, push it back through the body**, and out the same place
where the tail protrudes on the opposite side. Repeat from * to ** for the other arm, this
time bringing the needle out just in front of the top of the 1st arm. Pull the needle to
tighten the arm thread and pull the arms firmly against the body. Clip the thread, leaving
a 3-inch tail. Tie off the two ends of the tail using a surgeon's knot, then thread the tail
back onto the needle and pull it through the body, thus hiding the ends inside the body.
Clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear into the body. Tie off the first
tail in the same way.

ATTACH LEGS USING THREAD JOINTING METHOD:

First use pins to experiment and find the placement for the legs; mark the entry point for
the joints on each side. Thread a 2½-inch needle with upholstery or other strong thread in
a color to match the bear; double but do not knot the end. Insert needle into 1st hip; push
needle through body and bring out at 2nd hip. Pull thread through, leaving a 3-inch tail
protruding from the 1st hip. Insert the needle back into the bear one round above the exit
point, push through the bear, and bring it back out one round above the spot where the
tail is protruding. Insert the needle back into the exact place from which the tail
protrudes, then push it through the body and back out the bottom of the stitch on the
opposite side. *Insert needle into the leg from the inside and push through to outside.
Insert needle back into leg in same place where it came out, dipping the tip of the needle
downward and then back up to catch some stuffing as you pass through the leg, and bring
it out inside of the leg in the exact spot where it went in. Insert the needle back into the
body in the same place where the thread is protruding, push it back through the body**,
and out the same place where the tail protrudes. Repeat from * to ** for the other leg,
this time bringing the needle out just in front of the top of the 1st leg. Pull the needle to
tighten the leg thread and pull the legs firmly against the body. Clip the thread, leaving a
3-inch tail. Tie off the two ends of the tail using a surgeon's knot, then thread the tail
back onto the needle and pull it through the body, thus hiding the ends inside the body.
Clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear into the body. Tie off the first
tail in the same way.
14

SOME ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR BEAR

Notes: Use a size 7 hook (1.65mm) for all accessories.

Less than 50 yards of thread is needed for each item.

COWBOY HAT

MATERIALS: Size 10 crochet cotton, MC (main color) and CC (contrasting color)

1. With MC ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, 2 sc in last ch; moving around to
opposite side of ch, sc in next 2 free lps, 2 sc in next free lp; do not join; place rnd
marker. (8 sc)
2. (Sc in ea of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (10 sc)
3. 2 sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)
4. (Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc) twice. (24 sc)
5. Sc in next 2 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, (2
sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 3 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, (2
sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc. (36 sc)
7 – 13. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
13. Working in BL for this rnd, sl st in next sc, ch 1, 2 sc in same pl, and 2 sc in ea sc
around; do not join, place rnd marker. (72 sc)
14. Sk ch-1, sc in ea sc around. (72 sc)
15. Sc in ea sc around. ( 72 sc)
16. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc) 6 times. (78 sc)
Rev-sc: Insert hook into the stitch immediately to the right, yoh and bring up a loop, YO
and pull through both loops on hook.
17. Sl st in next sc, ch 1, turn; Rev-sc in same pl as turning, in next sc to the right, and in
ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st Rev-sc, FO (this is the back of the hat). (78 rev-sc)

HATBAND:
1. With back of hat facing you, top up, join CC with sc in free lp from rnd 12 at ctr back
of hat, sc in next 35 free lps around to last free lp, 2 sc in last free lp; join with sl st in 1st
sc; ch 1, do not turn. (37 sc)
2. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; FO. (37 sc)

• Weave the loose ends.

• Shape hat with clean fingers. Center top should be slightly indented. Roll sides
upward toward crown. Pull front and back of brim just a bit downward.
• Pin or sew the hat in place on the bear's head. The distance between your bear's ears
will determine the hat's position. If the ears are close together, it will have to be set
back on the head, perhaps with the front of the brim between the ears. If the ears are
set farther apart, you have more options as to how the hat is positioned.
 15

VEST:
Note that vest is worked on the vertical.

MATERIALS:
• Size 10 crochet cotton, MC (main color) and CC (contrasting color)
• Star shaped button or sequin, about ¼" (6mm)

1. With MC ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 ch,; ch 1, turn. (9 sc)

2. Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc; ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
4. Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
5. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
6. Sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
7 – 9. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
10. Sc in next 5 sc; leave rem sc unworked; ch 1, turn.
11 – 13. Sc in ea sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
14. Sc in next 5 sc; ch 10, turn. (5 sc, 10 ch)
15. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch; sc in next 5 sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
16 – 17. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
18. Sc in next 12 sc; do not work rem 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
19 – 25. Sc in ea across; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
26. Sc in next 12 sc, ch 3; turn. (12 sc, 3 ch)
27. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in next 12 sc. (14 sc)
28- 29. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
30. Sc in next 5 sc; leave remainder unworked; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
31 – 35. Sc in next 5 sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
36. Sc in next 5 sc, ch 10; turn. (5 sc, 10 ch)
37. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 8 ch, sc in next 5 sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
38 – 39. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
40. Sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
41. Sc2tog, sc in next 11 sc; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
42. Sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (11 sc)
43. Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
44. Sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog; FO. (9sc)

• Sew shoulder seams.

• Weave all loose threads.

VEST TRIM: (See Cowboy Hat for Rev-sc Instructions) With RS facing and vest
upside down, join CC with sc in 1st row end at bottom left edge (your left as you are
looking at it) of vest; Rev-sc in next row end to the right, and in next 42 row ends across,
turn the corner and make 2 Rev-sc in 1st sc on front edge, Rev-sc in next 8 sc, Rev-sc in
next 9 row ends to shoulder, Rev-sc in next 15 row ends across back to next shoulder,
Rev-sc in next 9 row ends to front edge, Rev-sc in next 8 free lps down front edge, 2
Rev-sc in last sc; join in beg Rev-sc; FO. (97 Rev-sc) (Alternatively, you can embroider
a blanket stitch or overcast stitch around the vest.
16

• Sew a star shaped button or sequin to left breast of vest.

SAILOR HAT:

MATERIALS: Size 10 crochet thread, white

1. With white, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, pl rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 8 times. (24 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 8 times. (32 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (32 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 8 times. (40 sc)
8 - 11. Sc in ea sc around. (40 sc)
12. Working in FL, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc) 4 times, join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1,
turn. (44 sc)
13. Sc in ea sc around; do not join or turn. (44 sc)
14. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc) 4 times. (48 sc)
15 - 16. Sc in ea sc around. At end of rnd 16, FO with sl st in next sc. (48 sc)

• Turn brim of hat up at rnd 12.

• Tack hat to head in 3 or 4 places, if desired.

BOW TIE:

MATERIALS: Size 10 crochet thread, red or color of choice

1. With bow tie color ch 3; sc in 2nd ch from hook; sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2. Sc in FL of ea sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
3. 3 sc in 1st sc, 3 sc in 2nd sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
4 – 9. Sc across; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
10. Sc3tog twice; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
11. Fold the piece tog having row 10 even with row 1. Inserting hook into the
corresponding sc of row 10 and free lps of row 1 at the same time, make 2 sc, thus
joining the 2 ends; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
12. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)

For the 2nd loop of bow, repeat rows 3 – 10; FO at end of row 10, leaving long end.

• Fold in so that row 10 meets row 12; sew the 2 sc of row 10 to the 2 sc of row 12 (this
is the back of the bow).
 17

EDGE. Beginning at back of bow and working in ends of rows around top edge of 1st
loop, join with sc in 1st row end; sc in next 9 row ends to center of bow; sc in next 2 sc
row ends of space between bow loops, continue on to next bow loop and sc in ea of the
10 row ends around 2nd bow loop. Ch 3, flip bow away from you vertically 180 degrees,
so that the unworked edge is facing up;, sc in next 10 row ends around 1st lp; ch 1, then sc
in next 10 row ends around 2nd bow loop; you will now be back to the middle section of
the bow.
1. Make 2 sc in the ch-1 sp bet lps; ch 1, turn.
2 - 6. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. At end of row 6, FO, leaving long end for sewing. (2
sc)

• Wrap the 6-row section just completed around the front of the bow, and bring the end
up to meet row 1 on the back of the bow; sew row 6 to row 1.
• Sew the bow tie to the chest just below the chin.

PORTRAIT HAT:
MATERIALS:
• Size 10 crochet thread in MC and CC
• 12-inch length (30-cm) of 1/8"-wide (4mm) ribbon, to coordinate with hat

1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, do not join; place rnd marker. (6 sc)

2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
6 - 7. Sc in ea sc around. (30 sc)
8. Sc in ea sc around, sl st in BL of next sc. (30 sc)
9. Working in BL for this round, ch 1, 2 sc in same pl as sl st, and 2 sc in ea sc around;
join with sl st in 1st sc, do not turn. (60 sc)
10. Ch 1, sc in same pl as joining, (ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 29 times, ch 2; join with
sl st in 1st sc. (30 ch-2 lps)
11. Sl st in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in same pl, (ch 2, sc in next ch-2 lp) 29 times; ch 1, hdc
in 1st ch-2 lp. (30 ch-2 lps)
12 - 13. (Ch 3, sc in next ch-2 lp) 29 times; ch 1, hdc in 1st ch-3 sp. (30 ch-3 lps)
14. Ch 3, turn, dc in same ch-3 lp, (sk next sc, 3 dc in sc in next ch-3 lp) 29 times, dc in
1st ch-3 sp; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3; FO. (90 dc)
15. With bottom of hat facing you, join CC with sc in 1st dc, (ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next
dc) around, ch 2, join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (45 ch-2 sp)

HAT BAND:
1. With back of hat facing you (joining on rnd 9 is back) and top up, join CC with sc in
1st free lp from rnd 8, (hdc in next free lp, sc in next free lp) around to last lp, hdc in last
free lp; FO, leaving long end.

• Using the long end, sew the top of the band to the crown.
18

• Tie the ribbon into a bow that is about 1.25 inches (3-cm) wide, leaving tails about 2.5
inches (6-cm) long. Glue or sew to back of hat where crown meets brim.
• Sew or pin hat to head.

HANDBAG:

MATERIALS: Size 10 crochet thread in MC and CC, to match hat.

1. With MC ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place marker. (6 sc)

2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. Sl st in next sc, ch 1, hdc in same sc as sl st and in next 17 sc; join with sl st in 1st hdc.
( 18 hdc)
6 - 8. Ch 1, hdc in 1st hdc and in ea hdc around; join with sl st in 1st hdc. (18 hdc)
9. Ch 25, sk 8 hdc, sl st in next hdc; FO MC.
10. With RS facing, join CC with sc in FL of same hdc where handle is joined, (ch 2, sc
in FL of next hdc) 17 times, ch 2, join with sl st in 1st sc; FO CC. (18 ch-2 lps).

• Weave ends.
• Thread a needle with a 12 inch (30-cm) length of CC; weave a running stitch around
row 8. Put a small amount of stuffing into bag. Pull ends of thread to gather; tie into a
tiny bow. Tie a knot in each tail at desired distance from the bow; clip ends about ¼" (6-
mm) from knot.

LACY SCARF:
MATERIALS:
• Size 10 crochet thread, MC and CC to match hat
• One 3-mm pearl bead

1. Ch 36; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across; do not ch 1; turn. (35 sc)
2. Sk 1st sc, 5 sl st, (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 12 times; leave remaining sc
unworked; do not ch, turn. (12 ch-3 lps)
3. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 11 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (11 ch-3 lps)
4. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 10 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (10 ch-3 lps)
5. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 9 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (9 ch-3 lps)
6. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 8 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (8 ch-3 lps)
7. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 7 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (7 ch-3 lps)
 19

8. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 6 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (6 ch-3 lps)
9. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 5 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (5 ch-3 lps)
10. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 4 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (4 ch-3 lps)
11. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) 3 times; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch,
turn. (3 ch-3 lps)
12. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp) twice; sl st in last ch-3 lp; do not ch, turn.
(2 ch-3 lps)
13. Sl st in 1st ch-3 lp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp; FO with sl st in next sc. (1 ch-3 lp)
14. With RS facing you and bottom of scarf pointed upward, join CC with sl st in 1st sc of
row 1, (ch 1, sc in next sc) 4 times, working in row ends up the edge, (ch 2, sc in next
row end) 12 times, ch 3, sc in ch-3 lp on row 13, ch 5, sc in same lp, now working in row
ends up the next edge, (ch 3, sc in next row end) 12 times, (ch 1, sc in next sc) 4 times, ch
1; FO with sl st in last sc. (10 ch-1 sp, 24 ch-3 lps)

• Sew the pearl bead to the left side of the scarf (the bear's left). Place the scarf
around the bear's shoulders, crossing the front ends, and using the 4th ch-1 sp from
the end as the buttonhole, button in place.

ABBREVIATIONS

alt – alternate inc – increase

approx – approximately lp(s) – loops
beg – begin/beginning MC – Main Color
bet -- between mm – millimeter(s)
BL – back loop pl – place
CC – Contrasting Color prev – previous
ch – chain stitch rem – remaining
ch- – refers to a ch space previously rep – repeat(s)
made: e.g., ch-1 space rnd(s) – round(s)
ch-sp – refers to chain or space RS – right side
cm – centimeter(s) sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
cont -- continue sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr) together
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches sk – skip
together (decrease) Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Dec – decreases(s) Sp(s) – space(s)
ea – each St – stitch
FL – front loop(s) tog -- together
FO – fasten off WS -- wrong side
hdc – half double crochet Yd(s) – yard(s)
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 YO – yarn over
stitches together Yoh – yarn over hook
20

INTERNET SOURCES FOR SUPPLIES:

Katia Ingenua: Upholstery Thread:

www.yarnmarket.com www.edinburghimports.com
www.personalthreads.com www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Punch Thread: Size 10 Crochet Thread:
www.tedsfromthreads.com www.joann.com
Crystal Palace Kid Mohair: www.anniesattic.com
www.tedsfromthreads.com www.createforless.com
www.littleknits.com Nylon Thread:
Eyes, Cotter Pins and Disks: www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.edinburghimports.com www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com Finger Brush, Hemostat, Pliers:
www.bearycheap.com (Australia) www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.haja-bears.com (Europe) www.edinburghimports.com
Crochet Hooks: www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
www.tedsfromthreads.com www.bearycheap.com (Australia)
www.lacysusan.com www.haja-bears.com (Europe)
www.joann.com

THREAD COMPARISON

Comparison Between Perle Cotton and Crochet Cotton:

Perle Size Crochet Size

3 5
5 10
8 20
12 30
16 40 - 50

Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a
ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit
inside ¼ inch (.6 cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For instance, if your
thread wraps around 12 times, then it is equivalent to size 12 perle cotton.

Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use
around a ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps
that fit inside ½ inch (1.3 cm) is the equivalent size to crochet cotton. For instance, if
your thread wraps around 30 times, then it is equivalent to size 30 crochet cotton.
 21

To ask questions or to report errors, notify the designer at

bluebearymailbox@aol.com

ON LINE STORES: Save by receiving your pattern electronically!

www.etsy.com/shop/BluebearyTreasures - Patterns are emailed directly from the

designer in pdf format. All pattern are $7.95 or less.
www.ravelry.com/designers/sue-pendleton - Patterns are available for immediate
download. All patterns are $7.95 or less.

Copyright 2010 by Sue Pendleton – All rights reserved. This pattern may not be used
to mass-produce bears. The purchaser of this pattern may, however, sell the bears he or
she creates from the pattern.
22

Bluebeary Treasures By Sue Pendleton