CASSIE, A TINY CROCHETED BEAR BBT067

Designed by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures By Sue Pendleton

Ph (830) 896-9616
bluebearymailbox@aol.com
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LIST OF MATERIALS (Bear is approximately 2.75" or 7cm tall):

• Punch Thread, Delite or Cameo – Ivory (1 spool will make 2 – 3 bears)

• Size 12 perle cotton – One ball MC (main color) and one ball AC (accent color)
• Size 12 crochet hook
• Fiberfill stuffing
• 2-mm black onyx beads for eyes
• Two ¼" joint disks
• One ½" cotter pin
• Black embroidery thread
• Upholstery or other strong thread in color similar to bear, for jointing
• Black nylon or other strong thread for attaching eyes (nylon thread will fit into the
beading needles, and is very strong)
• Needles: 2.5" milliners, beading, small sewing
• One 12-inch length of 1/8"-wide white ribbon
• One 10-inch length of 1/8"-wide white ribbon
• Three 3mm pearl beads, off-white or color of choice
• Sewing thread to match pearl beads
• Small hemostat, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for turning cotter pins
• Black fine tip marker, such as Micron .20mm
• Brown and light blue pencil or eye shadow for shading eye area and inside ears
• Pink pencil or blusher for shading cheeks
• Polyester Fiberfill, or stuffing of choice

GAGE: Since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is suggested that when
making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that you complete both
in one sitting.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:

ADJUSTABLE RING: Grasp the yarn between your thumb and forefinger, leaving a
tail at the beginning. Wrap the thread over and around the index finger clockwise,
crossing the thread at the top of the finger. Insert the hook underneath the front thread
that you just crossed, then catch the back thread with the hook, and pull a loop of the
back thread from underneath. Slip the loop off the finger, grasping the working end in
the left hand as if to begin crocheting. Chain 1, work number of stitches required into the
ring. Pull up a long loop, then, grasping the stitches just made with the right hand and
tail with left (or vice versa), pull to tighten ring. Insert hook into long loop and tighten
back against hook. Making sure tail is to the back, skip first chain worked and continue
working pattern.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON STUFFING: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly
affect the quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be stuffed

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firmly so that it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are pulled apart to
the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.

WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the bear, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a needle. Pass the needle
through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip
close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can't hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.

TO WEAVE LOOSE ENDS: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the
piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle
underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then
turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.

ABBREVIATIONS

alt – alternate lp(s) – loops

approx – approximately mm – millimeter(s)
beg – begin/beginning oz – ounce(s)
bet -- between pl – place
BL – back loop prev – previous
ch – chain stitch rem – remaining
ch- – refers to a ch space previously made: rep – repeat(s)
e.g., ch-1 space rnd(s) – round(s)
cm – centimeter(s) RS – right side
cont -- continue sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr) sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together sk – skip
(decrease) Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Dec – decreases(s) Sp(s) – space(s)
ea – each St – stitch
FL – front loop(s) tog -- together
FO – fasten off WS -- wrong side
hdc – half double crochet Yd(s) – yard(s)
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches YO – yarn over
together Yoh – yarn over hook
inc – increase

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Thread Comparison
Comparison Between Perle Cotton and Crochet Cotton:

Perle Size Crochet Size

3 5
5 10
8 20
12 30
16 40 - 50

Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a
smooth pencil or dowel, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number
of wraps that fit inside ¼ inch (.6 cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For
instance, if your thread wraps around 12 times, then it is equivalent to size 12 perle
cotton.

Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use
around a smooth pencil or dowel, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The
number of wraps that fit inside ½ inch (1.3 cm) is the equivalent size to crochet
cotton. For instance, if your thread wraps around 30 times, then it is equivalent to
size 30 crochet cotton.

CASSIE BEAR

HEAD:
1. With bear color ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch; moving
around to opposite side of chain, 2 sc in 1st free lp on this side, sc in next 4 ch, do not
join – use a short piece of contrasting thread as a marker. (12 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (14 sc)
3. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (16 sc)
4 - 5. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
6. Sc in next sc; move rnd marker to begin rnd here (this is to move the beginning of the
rnd back to center, and does not change the stitch count), sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc,
sc in next 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc. (20 sc)
• Place a marker in the next stitch which you will leave in to mark the bottom center of
the muzzle, and help with placement of the cotter pin later.
7. Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 14 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (34 sc)
8. Sc in next sc; move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3
sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next
6 sc. (42 sc)
9. Sc in next 12 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sc. (40 sc)
10. Sc in next sc; move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice, sc in
next 12 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (36 sc)

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11– 12. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)

13. Sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 11 sc. (34 sc)
14 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
16. Sc in next sc; move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4
sc, sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc; sc2tog; sc in next sc. (30 sc)
17. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (24)

• At this point put some stuffing in the muzzle so that you can get a better idea of where
center is, then place a disc onto a cotter pin. Insert the pin into the head and out the
center bottom of the head between rows 12 and 13, directly in line with the middle of the
muzzle, easing the pin through carefully so as not to tear the thread. Continue stuffing
the head so that you can be sure you have the cotter pin in the right place. If you find
that the cotter pin is off-center, take the stuffing out and do it again, adjusting the cotter
pin to center.

19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 8 times. (16 sc)

• Continue to stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Don’t forget to fill out the cheek area
on each side of the snout. Check shaping from all angles.

20. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)

21. Keeping stitches as tight as possible, sc2tog 8 times; FO, leaving long end for sewing.

• Using your tweezers or hemostat, add as much stuffing as you need to in order to round
out the back of the head.
• Thread the long end onto a needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the
FL around rnd 21; pull gently but firmly to gather (punch thread will break if too much
pressure is used, so if using punch thread: ( take a stitch, then pull gently), repeat within
( ) around; FO. Run the needle through the head and pull out another spot elsewhere on
the head (always between stitches, being careful not to catch the fabric) to secure and
hide the thread end; repeat if needed. Clip the thread close to the surface so that the end
disappears inside the head.

ATTACH EYES: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate
the eye positions. Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread: Begin by
threading a beading needle with black nylon or other strong thread. Do not knot the end.
Insert the needle through the or bead, and then remove the thread from
the needle. If you can't get your needle through the bead, insert the
thread through the bead hole first. Thread both ends back onto the
milliner's or other sturdy needle, and then insert the needle into the
first eye location. Bring the needle out the back of the head, pulling
the thread gently but firmly to slightly imbed the eye into the face.
Keeping the thread taut so as not to allow the eye to loosen, insert the
needle back into the exact place,** then push through the head and out
the bottom of the head. Tie off the ends with a surgeon's knot (see illustration at right),

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then thread the ends onto the needle and insert back into the head in the same place where
the knot is; pull through to another place on the bottom of the head. Clip ends close to
the surface so that they disappear inside the head. Repeat the process for the second eye.

EYELIDS:
Leaving a long tail at the beginning, ch 3 with bear color; FO, leaving a 2nd long tail.
Thread the 1st tail onto a needle; insert the needle into the fabric about halfway down the
inside edge of the eye, and very close to the eye. Pull through to the back of the head.
Insert the 2nd tail into the needle and then insert the needle into the face very close to the
outside edge of the eye, directly opposite the point where the 1st tail went in; pull through
to the back of the head, coming out in exactly the same place where the 1st tail is
protruding. The lid should wrap across the top edge of the eye. Now thread both tails
back onto the needle, insert the needle into the same place on the back of the head, and
back out elsewhere on the back of the head. Clip the threads close to the surface so that
they disappear inside.

NOSE:
Embroider the nose in a triangle shape using satin stitch with 2 strands of black
embroidery floss. Begin by knotting the thread and inserting the needle up through the
bottom of the head or muzzle, and coming out at center top of muzzle.
Tug to pull knot inside head. Now bring the needle straight down from
the exit point, and insert back into the muzzle where you want the
longest point of the nose to be. This will be the bottom point of the
triangle for all the nose stitches. Make another stitch over the first one,
then make the next stitch beginning at the bottom center of the nose,
and ending in the space 1 sc to the right of the center stitch. Repeat to
the left. Now fill in the nose with satin stitch.

MOUTH:
With one strand of black floss, embroider 1 vertical straight stitch
beginning at bottom center of nose and going downward about 3 sc in
length. Make a very small horizontal straight stitch directly beneath and
touching the vertical stitch.

EYEBROWS:
Using one strand of black floss, embroider a straight stitch above each eye to create
brows, making each brow 2 or 3 sc long.

EARS (Make 2):

1. Using bear color, begin with an adjustable ring and make 5 sc in the ring; OR ch 2, 5
sc in 2nd lp from hook; ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times, 2 sc in last sc; FO, leaving long end for
sewing ear to head. (14 sc)

ATTACH EARS:

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Row 3 is the front of the ear. Check for desired position of ears by pinning them to the
head. The ears should be slightly cupped, and the center of the ear should be placed
about the width of 2 rnds behind the left and right bottom edges of the ear. When you've
decided where you want to attach the ears, thread a needle with the long end, and sew the
ears to the head. After the ears have been attached, press the blunt end of your crochet
hook into the inside of the ears to give them a more cupped shape. Use a brown pencil or
eye shadow to shade the inside of the ear cup.

BODY:
1. With bear color ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join; place marker. (5 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next
sc) twice. (16 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times. (20 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around. (20 sc)
6. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here (this is to change the starting point;
it does not change the stitch count); 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 18 sc. (22 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 19 sc. (24 sc)
8. Sc in next 3 sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in
next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc
in next sc. (28 sc)

NECK JOINT: At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the
bottom of the head into the top of the center of round 1 of the body. Reach
inside the body to place a disk onto the cotter pin and push flush toward
head; then, reaching inside body with small pliers, curl each side of cotter
pin outward and down toward disk, until the curled leg is resting on the
disk.

9 - 15. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)

16. We need to begin the next rnd at center front, so sc in next sc and move marker; place
a 2nd contrasting marker, which you will leave in to help you identify the center
front when jointing; sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog,
sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc. (24 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
• Stuff body.
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
21. Sc2tog 6 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing bottom. (6 sc)
• Add more stuffing if needed. Body should be firmly stuffed.
• Close the bottom using the same method as used for the head.

LEFT ARM:

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1. With bear color ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in next 2 ch; moving around to work
on opposite side of ch, sc in next 3 free lps; do not join, place marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (12 sc)
8. Sc in next 7 sc, sl st loosely in next 5 st. (7 sc, 5 sl st)
9. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st) twice. (14 sc)
• Stuff hand, and continue stuffing arm as you work.
10 – 13. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
14. Hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 4 st, sl st loosely in next 4 st,
sc in next 3 st. (4 sl st, 7 sc, 4 hdc)
15. Sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 12 st. (14 sc)
16 - 18. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
19. Sc in next sc, move marker to begin rnd here, (sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (12 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(10 sc )

• Finish stuffing. Firm limbs are essential to making a solid thread

joint.
• Thread long end on needle, then sew the opening closed with a
ladder stitch (see diagram at right). Insert the needle into the top of arm out elsewhere
on arm, pulling thread taut. Pull on thread firmly and clip close to arm so that it
disappears into arm.

RIGHT ARM:
1. With bear color ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in next 2 ch; moving around to work
on opposite side of ch, sc in next 3 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (14 sc)
4 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. (Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog) twice. (12 sc)
8. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sl st in next 5 st, sc in next 7 sc. (5
sl st, 7 sc)
9. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st) twice. (14 sc)
10 – 12. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
13. Sc in next 13 sc, hdc in next sc. (13 sc, hdc)
14. 2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sl st in next 5 sc, sc in next 4 sc. (3
hdc, 5 sl st, 7 sc)
15. Sc2tog, sc in next 13 st. (14 sc)
16 - 18. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (12 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice, FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing.
(10 sc )

• Finish same as right arm.

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ATTACH ARMS:
Insert a straight pin through each arm at the place where the joint will be, in order to
experiment and find the correct placement. After you've decided where the arms will be
placed, mark the entry point for the joint on each side. Thread a 2½-inch needle with
upholstery or other strong thread in a color to match the bear; double but do not knot the
end. Insert needle into 1st shoulder; push needle through body and bring out at 2nd
shoulder. Pull thread through, leaving a 3-inch tail protruding from the 1st shoulder.
Insert the needle back into the bear one round below the exit point, push through the bear,
and bring it back out one round below the spot where the tail is protruding. Insert the
needle back into the exact place from which the tail protrudes, then push it through the
body and back out the top of the stitch on the opposite side. *Insert needle into the arm
from the inside and push through to outside of arm. Insert needle back into arm in same
place where it came out, dipping the tip of the needle downward and then back up to
catch some stuffing as the needle passes through the arm; bring it out inside of the arm in
the exact spot where it went in. Insert the needle back into the body in the same place
where the thread is protruding, push it back through the body**, and out the same place
where the tail protrudes on the opposite side. Repeat from * to ** for the other arm, this
time bringing the needle out just in front of the top of the 1st arm. Pull the needle to
tighten the arm thread and pull the arms firmly against the body. Clip the thread, leaving
a 3-inch tail. Tie off the two ends of the tail using a surgeon's knot (see illustration on
page 5), then thread the tail back onto the needle and pull it through the body, thus hiding
the ends inside the body. Clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear into the
body. Tie off the first tail in the same way.

• Use one strand of black floss to embroider 3 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches on
the end of each paw.

LEGS: (Make 2)
1. Ch 7 with bear color, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch; moving around to work
on opposite side of ch, sc in next 5 free lps, 2 sc in next free lp; do not join; place marker.
(14 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(20 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 8 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(30 sc)
4. Working in BL for this rnd, sl st in next sc, sc in same pl as sl st, sc in ea sc around; do
not join. (30 sc)
5. Sk sl st, sc in both lps of ea sc around. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog 7 times, sc in next 8 sc. (23 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3
sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc. (21 sc)
8. Sc in next 4 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc. (16 sc)
9. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (14)
• Stuff foot, shaping with fingers to keep sole as flat as possible.
10. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc. (13 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)

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12. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here; sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in
next 6 sc. (14 sc)
13. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc. (16)
• Continue stuffing every few rnds.
14 - 18. Sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
19. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (15 sc)
20. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
21. (Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc) 3 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing.
(12 sc)

• Add stuffing to firm up top of leg if necessary

• Use the same method to close the top as used for the arms.
• Make 3 straight stitches on each foot for claws

ATTACH LEGS:
First use pins to experiment and find the placement for the legs; mark the entry point for
the joints on each side. Thread a 2½-inch needle with upholstery or other strong thread in
a color to match the bear; double but do not knot the end. Insert needle into 1st hip; push
needle through body and bring out at 2nd hip. Pull thread through, leaving a 3-inch tail
protruding from the 1st hip. Insert the needle back into the bear one round below the exit
point, push through the bear, and bring it back out one round below the spot where the
tail is protruding. Insert the needle back into the exact place from which the tail
protrudes, then push it through the body and back out the top of the stitch on the opposite
side. *Insert needle into the leg from the inside and push through to outside. Insert
needle back into leg in same place where it came out, dipping the tip of the needle
downward and then back up to catch some stuffing as you pass through the leg, and bring
it out inside of the leg in the exact spot where it went in. Insert the needle back into the
body in the same place where the thread is protruding, push it back through the body**,
and out the same place where the tail protrudes. Repeat from * to ** for the other leg,
this time bringing the needle out just in front of the top of the 1st leg. Pull the needle to
tighten the leg thread and pull the legs firmly against the body. Clip the thread, leaving a
3-inch tail. Tie off the two ends of the tail using a surgeon's knot, then thread the tail
back onto the needle and pull it through the body, thus hiding the ends inside the body.
Clip the ends close to the surface so that they disappear into the body. Tie off the first
tail in the same way.
• Use one strand of black floss to embroider 3 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches on
the end of each paw.

PINAFORE:

1. Ch 31 with MC, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across; ch 1 turn (mark row 1 as
front). (30 sc)

• The piece should just fit around the bear underneath the arms. If not, adjust your hook
size accordingly.

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2. (Sc in next sc, sc in FL of next sc) 15 times; ch 1, turn. (15 sc, 15 FL sc)

Left Bodice Back:

3. (Sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc) 2 times; ch 1, turn. (2 sc, 2 BL sc)
4. (Sc in next sc, sc in FL of next sc) 2 times; ch 1, turn. (2 sc, 2 FL sc)
5 – 6. Repeat rows 3 and 4.
7. Repeat row 3.
8. Sc in next sc, sc in FL of next sc; ch 1, turn. (1 sc, 1 FL sc)
9. Sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing shoulder seam. (1
BL sc, 1 sc)

Bodice Front:
3. Sk 6 st after left back; join MC with sc in BL of next sc, (sc in next sc, sc in BL of
next sc) 4 times, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (5 sc, 5 BL sc)
4. (Sc in FL of next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times; ch 1, turn. (5 FL sc, 5 sc)
5. (Sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times; ch 1, turn. (5 BL sc, 5 sc)
6. Repeat row 4.
7. Repeat row 5.

Right Shoulder:
8. Sc in FL of next sc, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (1 FL sc, 1 sc)
9. Sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc; FO. (1 sc, 1 BL sc)
Left Shoulder:
8. Sk 6 st after right shoulder; join MC with sc in FL of next st, sc in next sc; ch 1, turn.
(1 FL sc, 1 sc)
9. Sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc; FO. (1 BL sc, 1 sc)

Right Bodice Back.

3. Sk 6 st after bodice front; join MC with sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc,
sc in BL of next sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc, 2 BL sc)
4. (Sc in next sc, sc in FL of next sc) 2 times; ch 1, turn. (2 sc, 2 FL sc)
5. (Sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc) 2 times; ch 1, turn. (2 sc, 2 BL sc)
6. Repeat row 4.
7. Repeat row 5; do not ch, turn clockwise.
8. Sl st in next 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, sc in FL of next sc; ch 1, turn. (1 sc, 1 FL sc)
9. Sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing shoulder seam. (1
sc, 1 FL sc)

Skirt:
1. With RS facing, join MC with sl st in 1st free lp of beg ch at waist, ch 3, dc in same
pl, 2 dc in ea free lp across; ch 1, turn. (60 dc)
2. (Sc in next sc, sc in FL of next sc) across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc, 30 FL sc)
3. (Sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc) across; ch 1, turn. (30 sc, 30 BL sc)
4 – 7. Repeat rows 2 and 3 twice.
8. Work this row in BL; (sc in next sc, ch 2, sk next sc) across; FO. (30 ch-2 lps)

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9. With RS facing, join AC with sl st in 1st sc, ch 3, dc in same pl, (ch 2, sc in next ch-2
lp, ch 2, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 lp) 14 times across to last ch-2 lp, ch 2, sc in last ch-
2 lp, ch 2, 2 dc in last sc; FO. (14 scallops, 2 half-scallops)
10. With RS facing, join MC with sc in top of beg ch-3 on row 9, (ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp, 2
dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp, sl st bet next 2 dc) 14 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp, 2 dc
in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp and next dc, sc in last dc; FO. (15 scallops)

Skirt Trim (optional):

1. With RS and top of pinafore facing you, join AC with sl st in 1st free lp of row 8, (ch
3, sk next free lp, sl st in next free lp) across to last free lp, ch 3, sl st in last free lp; FO.
(30 ch-3 lps)
2. (Work this row in the free lps between the ch-3 lps of row 1.) With RS and top of
garment facing you, join MC with sl st in same free lp as 1st sl st of row 1, ch 3, working
behind the ch-3 lps of row 1, sl st in next free lp, (ch 3, sk next sl st, sl st in next free lp)
across, ending with ch 3, sl st in same lp with last sl st of row 1. (32 ch-3 lps)

Back and Neck Edging:

1. With RS facing and working in row ends along back edge, join MC with sl st in same
row end where trim is worked (row 8 of skirt), (sc in next row end) 5 times, 2 sc in next
row end to waist, sc at waist, (sc in next row end) 7 times to top left edge of bodice, turn
the corner and make 2 sc in 1st sc of neck edge, sc in next sc, (sc in next row end) 6 times
across shoulder, sc in next 6 sc across front, (sc in next row end) 6 times across shoulder,
sc in next st on back, 2 sc in next sc, turn corner and (sc in next row end, ch 2, sc in next
3 row ends) twice to waist, ch 2, sc at waist, 2 sc in next row end, (sc in next row end) 5
times, FO with sl st in next row end. (53 sc, 2 sl st, 2 ch-2 buttonholes)

Sleeve Edging:

Long Sc: Insert the needle into the 2nd st from the edge, pull the loop to the edge of the
armhole, and complete the sc.

1. With RS facing, join AC with sc in 4th sc at underarm, sc in next 2 sc, turn corner and
long sc (see instructions above) in next row end, (sc in next row end, long sc in next row
end) 8 times, turn corner and sc in next 3 sc at underarm; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (14
sc, 8 long sc)

Finish Top:
• Weave all loose thread ends.
• Sew the three pearl beads to the back of the bodice, opposite the buttonholes.
• With AC, embroider 3 french knots along the neck edge of the front of the bodice to
simulate roses. (Make a French knot: Bring the needle up through the fabric. Place the
needle flat right up against the thread where it came out of the fabric. Holding the
needle in place with your left thumb, wrap the thread around the needle twice. Holding
the wrapped thread in place with your left thumb, pull the needle until the knot is against
the fabric. Insert the needle back in the same place where it came out, and pull through
to the back, pulling the knot firmly against the fabric.)

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• Using green sewing thread, sew 2 tiny straight stitches radiating from the center of each
"rose", for leaves.
PANTS:

1. Leaving a 10" (25cm) tail at the beginning, ch 44 with MC, join with sl st in 1st sc to
form a ring, ch 1, sc in same ch as joining, and in ea ch around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch
1, do not turn. (44 sc)
• The piece will be quite a bit larger than the bear's waist is. It has to be large in order
to fit over the bear's feet. It will be gathered to fit around the waist after the bloomers
are finished an on the bear.
2. Sc in same sc as joining, (sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc) around to last sc, sc in BL
of last sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (44 sc)
3. Sc in BL of same sc as joining, (sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc) around to last sc, sc
in last sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
4 - 9. Repeat rows 2 and 3.

• After row 9 is completed, ch 3, sk 21 sc, join with sl st in next sc. Count to make sure
that each leg opening has 21 sc, then FO.

First leg:
10. With RS facing and right leg opening toward you (seam is in the back), join MC with
sc in BL of 2nd ch at crotch, sc in BL of next ch, sc in same sc on row 9 where you
joined the ch-3, (sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc) 10 times, sc in BL of next sc, sc in
next sc on row 9 (same pl where ch-3 begins), sc in BL of next ch at crotch; join with sl st
in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (26 sc)
11. Sc in BL of same pl as joining, (sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc) 12 times, sc in next
sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (26 sc)
12. Sc in same pl as joining, (sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc) 12 times, sc in BL of next
sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (26 sc)
13. Sc in BL of same pl as joining, (sc in next sc, sc in BL of next sc) 12 times, sc in next
sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (26 sc)
14. Work this row in BL; sc in same pl as turning, (ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 12
times, ch 2; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (13 ch-2 lps)
15. With RS facing, join AC with sc in 1st sc on row 14, ch 2, (2 dc in next ch-2 lp, ch 2,
sk next sc, sc in next ch-2 lp, ch 2, sk next sc) 6 times, 2 dc in next ch-2 lp, ch 2, join with
sl st in 1st sc; FO. (7 scallops)
16. With RS facing, join MC with sl st between 1st two dc on row 15, (ch 2, sk next ch-2
lp, 2 dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp, sl st bet next 2 dc) 6 times, ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp,
2 dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 lp and next dc, join with sl st in same pl as 1st sl st; FO.
(7 scallops)

Second Leg:
10. With RS facing and left leg toward you, join MC with sc in 2nd free lp on the other
side of the ch-3 at crotch, sc in next free lp, sc in same sc on row 9 where ch-6 begins, (sc
in BL of next sc, sc in next sc) 10 times, sc in BL of next sc, sc in next sc on row 9 (same
pl where ch-6 joins), sc in next free lp; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (26 sc)

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11 – 16. Work same as rows 11 – 16 of first leg.

Waist:
1. Join MC with sc in 1st free lp at center back of waist, sc in next free lp and in ea free lp
around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO. (44 sc)

Finish Pants:

• Put the bloomers on the bear. Thread the long end remaining from row 1 onto a
needle. Beginning and ending at the center back of the waist, weave the thread in and
out between the stitches of row 1 of waist. Pull the thread to gather the bloomers and
tighten them around the bear's waist.
• If desired, tack the bloomers to the bear's body in 3 or 4 places around the waist. FO
and hide the loose end by pulling it inside the body.

FINISHING TOUCHES:

1. Sew or pin a 1/8" (3mm) ribbon rose to the bear's head in front of one ear.
2. Using a pink water color pencil or pink makeup powder, shade the cheeks as shown in
to photo. Add a tiny bit of pink just beneath the mouth line.
3. Using brown pencil or brown eye shadow powder, shade the inside of the ears.
Lightly shade the eyelid and the outer corners of the eyes with brown as well.
4. If desired, use light blue eye shadow powder to shade the lid.
5. Use a black micro-tip marker, use a dotting motion to draw a tiny line along the lower
edge of the lid, and around the bottom edge of the eye.

For questions or to report errors, please notify the designer at

bluebearymailbox@aol.com. Happy crocheting!!

Copyright 2009 by Sue Pendleton – All rights reserved. This pattern may not be used to
mass-produce bears. The purchaser of this pattern may, however, sell the bears he or she
creates from the pattern.

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SOME INTERNET SOURCES FOR SUPPLIES:

Punch Thread (Other lace-weight yarn or thread may be substituted):

www.tedsfromthreads.com
Size 12 Perle Cotton:
http://www.nordicneedle.com
www.thethreadexchange.com (Valdani – beautiful, hand-dyed size 12)
www.hhtatting.com
www.createforless.com
www.haja-bears.com (Europe)
Eyes, Cotter Pins and Disks:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.crscrafts.com
www.edinburghimports.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
www.bearycheap.com (Australia)
www.probear-int.com/shop (Europe)
www.haja-bears.com (Europe)
Crochet Hooks:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.lacysusan.com
www.joann.com
Upholstery Thread:
www.edinburghimports.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Nylon Thread:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Tiny Buttons and Ribbon Roses:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Pearl Beads:
www.craftking.com
www.createforless.com
Hemostats, Pliers, Mohair Brushes, Tweezers:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
www.edinburghimports.com
Stuffing:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
http://www.fabricsunlimited.net/aiprfi16.html
www.createforless.com
www.crscrafts.com

It's always a good idea to check for supplies on www.ebay.com and www.etsy.com, too.

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See more patterns by Sue Pendleton at www.etsy.com/bluebearytreasures.

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