CROCHET PATTERN

The stargazer (only crochet hook)

 Hello!

Do you like fairy tale characters and look at the stars? Maybe you
believe in fortune-telling, do not you?

Then I guess you will like this

fairy tale toy and it will bring you luck.
You will fall in love with it as crocheting
following the pattern.

First, just a little bit about me.

My name is Svetlana Malyarik. I

have been knitting and crocheting the
toys since 2014. By the way, my stargazer
is crocheted using only a hook.

In my crochet patterns
collection, you will find many toys such as
Witch, Santa Clause, and others. Also, there are crochet plush toy
patterns, such as Gus mouse, Pirate
cat, Ballerina bunny, and many others.
However, my absolute favorite thing
to do is to crochet beautiful outfits
for these toys. I am sure you will like
bunny, cat or Elf toys in different
clothes.

You can get more

information about my patterns on
the social website Etsy
«SvetlanaToysShop»

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https://www.etsy.com/shop/SvetlanaToysShop?ref=seller-platform-
mcnav, and on Instagram: @malyarik_toys.

Now, I want to tell you some words about the stargazer or

stargazer toy in a beautiful casual outfit.

The pattern consists of 71 pages and contains over 190

photographs and charts. The finished product using the materials stated
in this pattern is ~13.3 inches / 34 cm tall (without a cap).

The toy is made with a wireframe so he can move his legs, arms,
and fingers. We need felting wool and needle to make the hair.

A beautiful set of clothes symbolizes comfort and magic. It

consists of 6 elements of clothing: a light blue dress and a belt in the form
of a chain; Stargazer's favorite slippers; comfortable pants 😊; blue, star-
decorated mantle; and a tall cap.

The stargazer does not like it when

kids play with him, so it is more the interior
toy.

This pattern is a work of

authorship, and it intends only for personal
use. Full or partial reproduction and
distribution, sales, and publications on the
Internet are forbidden! You are welcome to
sell the finished toy made from this pattern,
but please credit my design – Svetlana
Malyarik.

I hope you will like everything and

enjoy crocheting.

So, let's doing magic! ☺

© Translated from Russian into English by Ekaterina Borisova. Please, contact
me for any updates and questions by e-mail: Kassabbashi@mail.ru

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The required materials:

For a toy:
Yarn:
Adelia Kiss (50g - 145m, 100% polyester), color 03 light beige - 3 skeins, for a body.
Alize superlana klassik (100g - 280m, 25% wool, 75% acrylic), color 55 white - 1 skein,
for eyes and pantalon.
Yarn Gamma "Iris" (25g - 85m, 100% mercerized cotton), color 3132 green - for pupils
of the eyes.
Yarn PNK named after SM Kirov "Iris" (25g - 150m, 100% mercerized cotton), color
2102 black - for pupils of the eyes

For clothes:
Yarn:
Alize Angora Gold Simli (100g - 500m, 75% acrylic, 20% wool 5% metallic), color 514
light blue - 1 skein, for a dress
Alize Simli Sal (100g - 460m, 95% acrylic, 5% metallic), color 360 blue - 1.5 skeins, for a
mantle and a cap
Pekhorka Crossbred Brazil (100g - 500m, 50% merino wool, 50% acrylic), color 393 St.
morengo - 1 skein, for a mantle and shoes
Yarn Art Bright (90g - 34m, 80% polyamide, 20% metallic), color 235 gray - 1 skein, for
stars
Alize Angora Cold Simli (100g - 500m, 10% mohair, 10% wool, 75% acrylic, 5% metallic),
color 152 beige melange - 1 skein, for a dress

1. Aluminum wire in diameter 1.5 cm, 40 cm length (10 pcs)

2. Medical tape in 1,5-2 cm wide
3. Crochet hook №1.75, №2, №2,5
4. Stuffing materials (fiberfill)
5. Tapestry needle
6. Pins
7. Felting wool (white) for hair, 30 g
8. Felting needle
9. Scissors and pliers
10. Blush and brush blush
11. Plastic covers – for feet (2 pcs)
12. Stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the row
13. Beige button in D=15 mm (1 pcs) and blue button in D=10 mm (2 pcs)

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Abbreviations (US):
Ch - chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
Tr – treble crochet
Inc – increase (work 2 sc or 2 dc in 1 st)
Dec – (work 2 sc together)
DC dec – decrease (work 2 DC together)
FLO –front loops only
* - repeat instructions as directed
(0) - The number in the brackets at the end of each round is the number of stitches in
this row.

Puff stitch, crossed double crochet, Reverse (crab) stitch.

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 Crossed double crochet stitch:

Chart
(double crochet) 3 t-ch

begining

Crochet 3 DC in the third stitch of the base Work 1 double crochet By working the
and pull the hook in the indicated point by (dc) in the next stitch. double crochet
the arrow – in the 2nd stitch of the base behind or in front of
the first double
crochet stitch you
complete the stitch.

Reverse Single Crochet Stitch (Crab stitch)

Crab stitch is easy the crochet border stitch and looks very beautiful and neat. It is done
in reverse (left to right, if you are the right-handed crocheter, and right to left, if you are
the left-handed crocheter).
At the end of the row, do not turn and do not chain new stitches.
Insert hook into the next full stitch to the right (photo. 1)
Yarn over and pull through a loop (photo 2)
Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook, as you work single crochet (photo
3 and 4)

Continue to work, insert hook in the next right stitch. Do not turn at the end of work.
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 How to make a puff stitch:

Make one yarn over, insert your hook into the loop, grab the working yarn and then pull
up a fairly long loop, approximately equal to the height of the half double crochet. Repeat
5 times. As the result, there are 10 loops on the hook.

Then again catch the working yarn and pull it through all seven loops on the hook, as
guided in the photo below:

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We made one (5 HDC) Puff stitch done:

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Begin crocheting the toy from the arms.
Later we will crochet on them into the
body. Use a 2.5 mm crochet hook and
Adelia Kiss yarn.
Arms (make 2):
Index, middle, and ring fingers (make 2):
Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 7 sc (7)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnds 2-4: 7 sc
Rnd 5: dec, 5 sc (6)
Rnds 6-7: 6 sc
Finish in sl st. Break yarn.
Thumb (make 2):
Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 8 sc (8)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnds 2-3: 8 sc
Rnd 4: (dec, 2 sc)*2 (6)
Rnds 5-8: 6 sc
Finish in sl st. Break yarn.
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Little finger (make 2):
Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnds 2-7: 6 sc
Do not break yarn. Continue crocheting
in a circle.
Joining the fingers:
Rnd 1: 3 sc to the little finger, 3 sc to the
ring finger, 3 sc to the middle finger, 6 sc
to the index finger, 3 sc to the middle
finger, 3 sc to the ring finger, 3 sc to the
little finger (24)
Put a marker and continue crocheting in
a circle.
Rnds 2-3: 24 sc
Rnd 4: Left arm: 12 sc, 3 sc with the
thumb together, sc, 5 sl st, 3 sc (24)
Right arm: 5 sc, 5 sl st, sc, 3 sc with the
thumb together, 10 sc (24)
SL ST should be in the middle of the
inner side of the palm.
See how to join the thumb in the photo.
Crochet through both loops of the palm
and thumb together at once.

Bend the end of the wire and press

firmly using pliers:

Rnd 5: Left arm: 12 sc, 3 sc to the thumb,

9 sc (24)
Right arm: 10 sc, 3 sc to the thumb, 11
sc (24)
Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 7: 18 sc
Rnd 8: (sc, dec)*6 (12)
Stuff the palm and insert the wireframe.

Make the wireframe as follows: cut 10

pieces of the wire 20 cm long.

Secure the bend with adhesive tape (208):

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Insert the wireframes into each finger
and curl them together, as guided in the
photo:
Stuff the palm with fiberfill gently.
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec)*3 (9)
Rnd 10: FLO: (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
Rnds 11-24: 12 sc
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Crochet the elbow in the next round.
Rnd 25: Left arm: 4 sl st, 4 sc, 3 HDC in 1
stitch, 3 sc (14)
Right arm: 1 sc, 3 HDC in 1 stitch, 4 sc, 4
sl st, 2 sc (14)
HDC is the elbow. Crochet sl st opposite
to the elbow. Make the required number
of shift stitches if needed.
Rnd 26: Left arm: 4 sl st, 4 sc, 3 HDC tog,
4 sc (12)
Right arm: sc, 3 HDC together, 4 sc, 4 sl
st, 2 sc (12)
Rnds 27-38: 12 sc. Break yarn. Stuff the
arm with fiberfill.
Crochet the second arm similarly:
Cut the yarn and thread the needle. We
will use it for sculpting the bottom part of
the body.
Legs (make 2):
Foot (make 2):

Rnd 1: chain 12, start working in the

second chain from hook: 10 sc, 3 sc in the
last chain foundation, continue
crocheting on the other side of the chain
foundation: 9 sc, inc (24)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc, 9 sc, 3 inc, 10 sc, inc (29)
Rnd 3: sc, inc, 7 sc, 2 HDC, HDC inc, HDC,
2 HDC inc, HDC, HDC inc, 2 HDC, 8 sc,
inc, sc (35)
Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc, (2 HDC, HDC inc)*4,
2 HDC, 7 sc, inc, 2 sc (41)
Rnd 5: 2 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc, (3 HDC, HDC Rnd 6: BLO: 16 sc, 17 HDC, 15 sc (48)
inc)*3, HDC, 10 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (48) Rnds 7-8: 16 sc, 17 HDC, 15 sc (48)
Rnd 9: 16 sc, (dec HDC, 2 HDC)*4, HDC,
15 sc (44)
Rnd 10: dec, 14 sc, (HDC dec, HDC)*4,
HDC, 15 sc (39)
Rnd 11: 13 sc, dec, 5 HDC dec, dec, 12 sc
(32)
Insert the template into the foot:

Trace the foot on the plastic and cut it

out. I use plastic covers.

Rnd 12: 10 sc, 2 dec, HDC dec, HDC, HDC

dec, 2 dec, 9 sc (26)
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Rnd 13: 9 sc, 5 dec, 7 sc (21)
Take 40 cm wire and make a loop, as
guided in the photo. The size of the oval
should fit the foot.

Rnd 14: 9 sc, dec, sc, dec, 7 sc (19)

Rnd 15: 7 sc, (dec, sc)*3, 3 sc (16)
Rnd 16: 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (14)

Stuff the foot with fiberfill firmly:

Secure with adhesive tape to avoid

getting hurt. (197)

Rnds 17-26: 14 sc
In the next round, crochet the knee.
Make sure you increase in the front.
Insert the wireframe into the foot: Rnd 27: sc, 6 sl st, (sc, inc)*3, sc (17)

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Rnd 28: sc, 6 sl st, (2 sc, inc)*3, sc (20)
Rnds 29-30: 20 sc
Rnd 31: sc, 6 sl st, (2 sc, dec)*3, sc (17)
Rnd 32: sc, 6 sl st, (sc, dec)*3, sc (14)
Rnds 33-36: 14 sc
Rnd 37: ((sc, inc)*3, sc)*2 (20)
Rnd 38: 20 sc
Rnd 39: (2 sc, inc)*6, 2 sc (26)
Rnds 40-41: 26 sc

Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail. Stuff

the leg with fiberfill.

Body:
Begin to join the legs:
Rnd 42: 9 sc to the left leg,

Take the second leg and fold it, as guided

in the photo. Mark the middle of the side
of the leg. We will join the right leg to this
point:

Crochet the second leg similarly. Do not

break yarn on the second leg.

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Chain 3,
26 sc to the right leg, dec, sc to the chain,
dec, 17 sc to the left leg (58)
Decrease in the corner of the chain:
Rnd 43: 29 sc, 6 inc, 9 sc, 6 inc, 8 sc (70)
Rnd 44: (10 sc, inc)*6, 4 sc (76)
15
Rnd 45: 32 sc, inc, (sc, inc)*6, 9 sc, (inc,
sc)*6, inc, 9 sc (90)
Continue crocheting the belly.
Rnd 46: FLO: sl st, 4 sc, 12 HDC, 4 sc, sl st,
turn (22)
Rnd 47: skip one stitch on the base, sl st,
3 sc, 12 inc HDC, 3 sc, sl st, sl st on the
base, turn (32)
Rnd 48: skip one stitch on the base, sl st,
3 sc, 24 HDC, 3 sc, sl st, sl st on the base,
continue crocheting to the body: 66 sc
(99)
 Rnd 54: 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, (dec, 5 sc)*2, dec,
(sc, dec)*4, 19 sc, (dec, sc)*4, 4 sc (68)
Rnd 55: (dec, 10 sc)*3, 2 dec, 3 sc, skip 11
sc on the base, 2 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (50)

Top view:

Sew these 11 stitches using a needle with

the yarn that we have prepared at the
beginning of the pattern:

Rnd 49: 32 sc to the belly, 67 sc to the

body (99)
Rnds 50-52: 99 sc
Rnd 53: 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 10
sc, dec, 5 sc, (dec, sc)*7, 5 sc, (dec, sc)*7,
5 sc, dec, 2 sc (80)
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The back of the body is done: Curlthe ends of the wireframe of the legs
with new wireframe together, as guided
in the photo:

Rnd 56: 50 sc
Rnd 57: (6 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (44)
Secure the curled point with adhesive
Rnds 58-77: 44 sc
tape:
Cut a piece of wire 60 cm long and fold it
in half:

17
 See how to join the arm to the body in the
photo:

Back view:

Bend the wireframe of the arms, as

In the next round, join the arms to the shown in the photo:
body.
Rnd 78: 3 sc, 6 sc with the left arm
together (place the arms with the inner
side of the palm inward), 15 sc, 6 sc with
the right arm together, 14 sc (44)

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 the stitch of the previous round at the
point of the arm joint and the first stitch
of the arm. Make decrease, as shown in
the photo:

Secure it with adhesive tape:

Rnds 80-82: 44 sc
Stuff the body with fiberfill firmly as you
crochet.

Rnd 83: (5 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (38)

Rnd 84: (4 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (32)
Rnd 85: (3 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (26)
Rnd 86: (2 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (20)
Rnd 87: (4 sc, dec)*3, 2 sc (17)
Rnds 88-91: 17 sc
Break yarn, leaving 50 cm tail for sewing.

Rnd 79: 3 sc, 6 sc to the arm, 15 sc, 6 sc to

the arm, 14 sc (44)

Tip: To avoid the holes in the corners of

the body and arms, I recommend
decreasing as follows: insert the hook in

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 Head:
Rnd 1: chain 2 and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: 3 HDC inc, 3 sc inc (12)
Rnd 3: 3 HDC, HDC inc, 3 HDC, inc, 3 sc,
inc (15)
Rnd 4: 4 HDC, HDC inc, 4 HDC, inc, 4 sc,
inc (18)
Rnd 5: (2 HDC, HDC inc)*3, 2 HDC, inc, 5
sc, inc (23)
Rnd 6: 3 HDC, HDC dec, 2 HDC, HDC inc, 2
HDC, HDC dec, 3 HDC, inc, 6 sc, inc (24)
Rnd 7: 3 sc, 8 sl st, inc, 4 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc
(27)
Cheeks (make 2):
Rnd 1: chain 2 and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: 4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc (16)
Rnd 4: 4 sc, (sc, inc)*4, 4 sc (20)
Rnd 5: 20 sc
Rnd 6: (inc, 4 sc)*4 (24)

Rnd 8: 3 sc, FLO: (inc, 3 sc)*2, through

both loops: (inc, 3 sc)*4 (33)
Rnd 9: 33 sc
Rnd 10: (4 sc, inc)*6, 3 sc (39)
Rnd 11: 39 sc
Rnd 12: (5 sc, inc)*6, 3 sc (45)
Rnd 13: 45 sc
Rnd 14: (6 sc, inc)*6, 3 sc (51)

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Rnd 15: 2 sc, sl st, FLO: sc, 7 HDC, sc,
through both loops: sl st, 4 sc, sl st, FLO:
sc, 7 HDC, sc, through both loops: sl st, 23
sc (51)
Rnd 16: 35 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc (53)

11 sc, to the head: 20 sc, with the cheek

together: 11 sc, to the head: 11 sc, chain
2 (skip 2 stitches on the base)

Rnd 17: 3 sc, (inc, sc)*3, inc, FLO: 11 sc,

through both loops: (inc, sc)*3, inc, 25 sc
(61)
Rnd 18: 6 sc, (inc, 2 sc)*3, 12 sc, (2 sc,
inc)*3, 25 sc (67)
Rnd 19: 2 sc, crochet with the cheek
together, as guided in the photo:

10 sc (67)
Bend the front part of the face inward
and sew rounds 14 and 17, as guided in
the photo:

21
 Rnd 20: 2 sc, 13 sc to the outer side of the
cheeks:

The cheeks are done:

20 sc, 13 sc to the cheek, 21 sc (69)

Tip: To avoid the holes in the corners of

the cheeks, I recommend decreasing as
follows: insert the hook in the stitch of

22
the previous round and the first stitch on
the cheek and make one decrease, as
shown in the photo:

Put the head onto the wireframe (insert

the wireframe into the hole, which we
made in round 19). Cut the wireframe.
The end of it should fit the head size.
Rnds 21-27: 69 sc
Rnd 28: 4 sc, 8 dec, 9 sc, 8 dec, 24 sc (53)
Rnd 29: 6 sc, 3 dec, 11 sc, 3 dec, 24 sc (47)

Bend the ends and secure with adhesive

Rnds 30-38: 47 sc tape:

23
Stuff the head with fiberfill. Do not stuff
the cheeks.
Rnd 39: (5 sc, dec)*6, 5 sc (41)
Rnd 40: (4 sc, dec)*6, 5 sc (35)
Rnd 41: (3 sc, dec)*6, 5 sc (29)
Rnd 42: (2 sc, dec)*6, 5 sc (23)
Rnd 43: (sc, dec)*6, 5 sc (17)
Rnd 44: dec*8, sc (9)
Rnd 45: dec*4, sc (5)
Break yarn, leaving 20 cm tail for sewing.
Pull the hole using a tapestry needle:

Stuff the chin with fiberfill gently:

24
Do not break yarn and use it for the Stuff the neck with fiberfill and sew it to
muzzle sculpting. the head in a circle:
Side view:

Face design:
Front view:
The face design is the biggest work in the
pattern. The more accurate you make it,
the more beautiful face turns out. So,
let's start.

25
First, sculpt the face. Draw the needle downward under the
Bring the needle to the right side of the cheek:
cheek:

Grab one stitch:

Grab one stitch:

Draw the needle out at the corner from

the top over the cheek. In this way, we
tighten along the upper side of the cheek

26
gently and at the bottom under the cheek
in one place: Shape the left cheek with fingers and
tighten gently, as we did for the right
cheek.

Shape the cheeks with the fingers.

Once you brought the needle 4 times Bring the needle across the cheek from
from above, grab the stitch and draw it above (over the cheek), and at the
out to the corner of the left cheek on the bottom (under the cheek) in one place:
opposite side:

27
Distribute the stuffing material in the
cheeks evenly using the hook:
Shape the nose bridge. Grab one stitch
and draw the needle at the opposite side
(the distance is 7 sc):
28
Grab one stitch and draw the needle back
to the opposite side. Repeat 2 times,
tightening higher and higher. The bridge
nose is done:
Sculpt the eyebrows. Gather the rows
with fingers, shaping the eyebrow at the
distance of 6-7 rows from the top of the
head, and sew along the eyebrow:
Sew the second eyebrow similarly: Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Rnds 6-9: 30 sc
Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
Rnd 11: 24 sc
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
Rnd 13: 2 sc, 5 HDC, 5 sc (12)
Break yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail for sewing
the nose.

We have sculpted the eye sockets, as

shown in the photo.

Attach the nose to the nose bridge from

the top using pins:

Nose:
Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.

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 Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnds 5-6: 24 sc.
Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the nose neatly and stuff it with

fiberfill:

Eyelids:
(with light beige color yarn and a 2.5 mm
crochet hook)
Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc (6)
Continue crocheting in a circle.
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Eyes (make 2): Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc, HDC, 7 DC, HDC, inc, (4
Whites: sc, inc)*2, 5 sc (34)
(with white color yarn and a 2 mm Rnd 7: 7 sc, 9 HDC, 18 sc (34)
crochet hook) Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

30
Put the white into the eyelid and make Attach the eye (along the cheek) with
one side of it visible: pins, as shown in the photo:

Sew the eyelid to the eye stuffing with Sew it using the yarn from the eyelid.
fiberfill gently: Skip 1 cm from the edge and sew the
eyelid to enable it to curl up:

31
 Eyelid (make 2):
(black color yarn and a 1 mm crochet
hook)
Rnd 1: chain 2, and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Iris:
(with light blue yarn and a 1 mm crochet
hook)
Rnd 1: chain 2 and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Leave a long tail for sewing.

Attach the second eye close to the first

eye and sew it neatly. Skip 1 cm from the
edge and sew the outer side of the eyelid
on the side:

Sew the pupils to the iris and sew the

ready part to the whites, making cross-
eye effect:

32
Ear (make 2):
Rnd 1: chain 2 and start working in the
second chain from hook 6 sc
Rnd 2: inc*6 (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
Fold in half and crochet 3 sc through
both loops across.

Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Attach the ear to the side of the head

next to the eye and sew it neatly:

33
Sew the second ear similarly: Hair:
Make hair from the wool using a felting
needle. Use white color wool.

Tip: I recommend attaching hair once the

body and clothes are done. Otherwise,
the hair may be tangled.

Cut 10 thin strands 30 cm long. The

thinner strand the puffer hair will be.

Side view:

34
See the felting needle in the photo
Begin to attach the second strand:
below. I recommend using a thicker
needle.

Continue attaching the other strands of

hair similarly:
Place the middle of the strand to the side
above the ear, as shown in the photo.
Begin to pierce the strand into the head
in a vertical movement:

35
Attach the strands around the head up to Side view:
the other ear. The circles indicate the
middle of the strands:

Front view:

Put the wool down. We have got the bald

patch.

36
Attach the strands of hair under the hair The hair is done:
additionally, if desired. Note, the strand
should be thinner than in the previous
row.

Eyebrow:
Cut 2 strands 9 cm long. Cut the end of
Trim the hair with scissors: the strand, making it fluffy:

37
Place it to the eyebrow and attach using Beard:
the felting needle:
Cut 4 strands of wool 20 cm long.
Place the middle of the strand and attach
it with a felting needle:

Attach the second eyebrow similarly:

Attach the remaining three strands along

the chin:

38
Put the wool down: The beard is done:

Make the ends of the beard fluffy: The toy is finished:

39
Back view:

40
 Stargazer outfit
Rnd 2: ((4 DC in the arch)*2, 5 DC in the
First of all, I recommend trying on all arch)*4, ch, turn (52)
elements of clothes as you crochet.
Otherwise, the clothes could be too big or
small. Someone crochets loose, someone
tight. If you find the dress is too small,
then add few rounds, if it is very big, then
decrease some stitches.

We start to work on this outfit from the

dress.

Dress:
(with beige and light blue color Alize
Angora Gold Simli yarn and a 2 mm
crochet hook)

Chain 42 with beige color yarn and start

working in the 7th chain from hook as Rnd 3: 6 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch,
follows: 12 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 12
Rnd 1: (sc, ch (skip 2 stitches on the DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 12 DC,
base))*12 (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 6 DC, CH,
turn (68)

Rnd 4: 8 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch,

16 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 16
DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 16 DC,
(2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 8 DC, CH,
turn (84)

Rnd 5: 10 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch,

20 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 20
DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 20 DC,
(2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 10 DC, CH,
turn (100)

Change to light blue color yarn. Break Rnd 6: 12 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch,
beige yarn, secure, and hide the tail. 24 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 24
41
DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 24 DC,
(2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 12 DC, CH,
turn (116)

Rnd 7: 14 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch,

28 DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 28
DC, (2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 28 DC,
(2 DC, CH, 2 DC) – in 1 stitch, 14 DC, CH,
turn (132)

Rnd 9: BLO of the seventh round: 16 sc,

inc, skip 32 stitches on the base (for the
sleeve), (16 sc, inc)*2, skip 32 stitches on
the base (for the sleeve), 16 sc, inc (72)

The photo below shows a skip of 32

stitches for the sleeve. In other words,
Rnd 8: FLO: 132 sc, join to the first stitch make the corners at these points.
on the other side, and continue
crocheting in a circle:

42
The sleeves are finished: We are to make 9 arches as shown in the
photo:

Continue crocheting the hem of the dress Rnds 11,13: 4 DC, (2 sc in the arch, 6
as following the chart below: DC)*8, 2 sc in the arch, 2 DC (72)

Rnds 10,12: (2 DC, skip 2 stitches, DC inc, Rnd 14: (2 inc DC, skip 2 stitches, inc DC,
3 CH, DC inc, skip 2 stitches)*9 (72) 3 CH, inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (90)

43
Rnds 15,17: 6 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (8 DC, Rnds 32, 34: (12 DC, skip 2 stitches, 2 DC,
2 sc in the arch)*8, 2 DC (90) 3 CH, 2 DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (162)

Rnd 16: (4 DC, skip 2 stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH, Rnd 35: 14 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (16 DC, 2
2 DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (90) sc in the arch)*8, DC, sc (162)

Rnd 18: (DC, 2 inc DC, DC, skip 2 stitches,

2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (108)
Rnds 19, 21: 8 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (10 DC,
2 sc in the arch)*8, 2 DC (108)

Rnd 20: (6 DC, skip 2 stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH,

2 DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (108)

Rnd 22: (2 DC, 2 inc DC, 2 DC, skip 2

stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC, skip 2
stitches)*9 (126)

Rnds 23, 25: 10 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (12

DC, 2 sc in the arch)*8, 2 DC (126)
Rnd 24: (8 DC, skip 2 stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH,
2 DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (126)
Rnd 26: (3 DC, 2 inc DC, 3 DC, skip 2
stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC, skip 2
stitches)*9 (144)
Rnds 27, 29: 12 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (14
DC, 2 sc in the arch)*8, 2 DC (144)
Change to beige yarn. Break light blue
color yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
Rnd 36: BLO: 161 sc
Rnd 37: 80 crossed DC.
Review how to make crossed double
crochet at the beginning of the pattern,
on page 6.

Rnd 28: (10 DC, skip 2 stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH,

2 DC, skip 2 stitches)*9 (144)

Rnd 30: (4 DC, 2 inc DC, 4 DC, skip 2

stitches, 2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC, skip 2
stitches)*9 (162)

Rnds 31, 33: 14 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (16

DC, 2 sc in the arch)*8, 2 DC (162)
44
Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
Sleeve:
Join light blue yarn to the bottom of the
sleeve, as shown in the photo:
45
Continue crocheting in a circle through
front loops of round 7:
Rnd 1: (3 sc, inc)*9 (45)
Rnd 2: (2 DC, skip 2 stitches, inc DC, 3 CH,
inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*5, 2 DC, skip 2
stitches, inc DC (34)
Rnd 3: 4 DC, (2 sc in the arch, 6 DC)*5 (44)

Rnd 4: (2 inc DC, skip 2 stitches, inc DC, 3

CH, inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*5, 2 inc DC,
skip 2 stitches (44)

Rnds 5, 7: 6 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (8 DC, 2

sc in the arch)*4, 6 DC (54)

Rnd 6: (4 DC, skip 2 stitches, inc DC, 3 CH,

inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*5, 4 DC (44)
Rnd 8: (DC, 2 inc DC, DC, skip 2 stitches,
inc DC, 3 CH, inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*5,
DC, 2 inc DC, DC (56)

Rnds 9, 11: 8 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (10 DC,

2 sc in the arch)*4, 8 DC (66)
Rnd 10: (6 DC, skip 2 stitches, inc DC, 3
CH, inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*5, 6 DC (56)
Rnd 12: (2 DC, 2 inc DC, 2 DC, skip 2
stitches, inc DC, 3 CH, inc DC, skip 2
stitches)*5, 2 DC, 2 inc DC, 2 DC (68)
Change to beige yarn. Break light blue
yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
Rnd 17: BLO: 88 sc
Rnd 18: 44 crossed DC, 4 sl st
Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.

Rnds 13, 15: 10 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (12

DC, 2 sc in the arch)*4, 10 DC (78)

Rnd 14: (8 DC, skip 2 stitches, inc DC, 3

CH, inc DC, skip 2 stitches)*5, 8 DC (68)

Rnd 15: (3 DC, 2 inc DC, 3 DC, skip 2

stitches, inc DC, 3 CH, inc DC, skip 2
stitches)*5, 3 DC, 2 inc DC, 3 DC (80)

Rnd 16: 12 DC, 2 sc in the arch, (14 DC, 2

sc in the arch)*4, 12 DC (88)

46
Crochet the second sleeve similarly:

Belt:
(with beige Alize Angora Gold Simli yarn
Sew the button opposite to the hole: and a 2 mm crochet hook)

Chain 140 with beige yarn. Crochet

through both loops of rounds 13 and 14.

The dress is finished:

Crochet in DC. We have made a loop:

47
Yarn over 5 times through these loops, as Pull yarn through all loops on the hook:
shown in the photo:

Chain 6:
Join in sc in the 14th loop:

48
Grab the 6th and 7th stitch on the chain
and join in DC Make 19 circles.

Yarn over 5 times through the loop and In the end, make sl st:
join in sc in the 7th stitch, pull the working
yarn through all loops on the hook. The
second circle is finished:

49
Crochet 15 sc into each arch: Crochet 25 sc in the last circle:

Crochet tightly, making the belt tough: The belt is done. Break yarn, secure, and
hide the tail.

50
Mantle: Place the yarn tail, which we have left at
(with light gray color Pehorka Crossbred the beginning, on the hook:
Brazil yarn, blue color Alize Simli Sal yarn,
silver Yarn Art Bright yarn, a 2 mm
crochet hook, tapestry needle)

Crochet the mantle in Raglan from the

top down. Begin crocheting the string
(ties). Leave 30 cm tail and chain one:

Draw the working yarn through 2 loops:

51
Place the yarn tail over the hook and pull
the working yarn. Crochet 140 stitches of
the string 52.5 cm long.
Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
Count 49 stitches from the edge and join
light gray yarn to the 50th stitch:
52
Rnd 1: 6 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 7 sc, 3 sc in
one stitch, 10 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 7 sc, 3
sc in one stitch, 6 sc, CH, turn (48)
Rnd 2: 7 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 9 sc, 3 sc in
one stitch, 12 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 9 sc, 3
sc in one stitch, 7 sc, CH, turn (56)
Rnd 3: 8 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 11 sc, 3 sc
in one stitch, 14 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 11
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 8 sc, CH, turn (64)
Rnd 4: 9 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 13 sc, 3 sc
in one stitch, 16 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 13
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 9 sc, CH, turn (72)
Rnd 5: 10 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 15 sc, 3 sc
in one stitch, 18 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 15
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 10 sc, CH, turn (80)
Rnd 6 11 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 17 sc, 3 sc
in one stitch, 20 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 17
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 11 sc, CH, turn (88)
Rnd 7: 12 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 19 sc, 3 sc
in one stitch, 22 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 19
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 12 sc, CH, turn (96)

Rnd 8: 13 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 21 sc, 3 sc

in one stitch, 24 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 21
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 13 sc, CH, turn (104)

Rnd 9: 14 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 23 sc, 3 sc

in one stitch, 26 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 23
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 14 sc, CH, turn (112)

Rnd 10: 15 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 25 sc, 3

sc in one stitch, 28 sc, 3 sc in one stitch,
25 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 15 sc, CH, turn
(120) Rnd 15: crochet around the edge in Crab
stitch.
Rnd 11: FLO: 16 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, (13 Read on how to crochet Crab stitch at the
sc, 3 sc in one stitch)*2, 30 sc, 3 sc in one beginning of the pattern on page 6.
stitch, (13 sc, 3 sc in one stitch)*2, 16 sc,
CH, turn (132)

Rnd 12: 17 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, (15 sc, 3

sc in one stitch)*2, 32 sc, 3 sc in one
stitch, (15 sc, 3 sc in one stitch)*2, 17 sc,
CH, turn (144)
Rnd 13: 18 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, (17 sc, 3
sc in one stitch)*2, 34 sc, 3 sc in one
stitch, (17 sc, 3 sc in one stitch)*2, 18 sc,
CH, turn (156)

Rnd 14: 19 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, (19 sc, 3

sc in one stitch)*2, 36 sc, 3 sc in one
stitch, (19 sc, 3 sc in one stitch)*2, 19 sc,
CH, turn (168)
Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.

53
Join blue yarn to round 10 on the wrong
side:

Rnd 16: (2 sc, inc)*39, 3 sc, CH, turn (159)

Crochet as following the chart:

54
Rnd 17: 159 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 18: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the
base)*79, DC, CH, turn
Rnd 19: (inc DC, 2 DC)*53, CH, turn (212)
Rnd 20: (9 sc, puff st)*21, 2 sc, CH, turn
(212)
Review how to make HDC Puff stitch at
the beginning of the pattern on page 8.
Rnd 21: 212 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 22: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the
base)*106, CH, turn
Rnd 23: (inc DC, 3 DC)*53, CH, turn (265)
Rnd 24: 4 sc, puff st, (9 sc, puff st)*3, 4 sc,
skip 65 stitches on the base, sl st, 2 sc,
puff st , (9 sc, puff st )*4, 10 sc, skip 65
stitches on the base, sl st, 10 sc, puff st, (9
sc, puff st)*2, 8 sc, CH, turn (133)
55
We have made the holes for the sleeves.
Rnd 25: 133 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 26: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the
base)*66, DC, CH, turn
Rnd 27: (inc DC, 4 DC)*26, inc DC, 2 DC,
CH, turn (160)
Rnd 28: (9 sc, puff st )*16, CH, turn (160)
Rnd 29: 160 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 30: (DC, CH, skip one st)*80, CH, turn
Rnd 31: (inc DC, 5 DC)*26, inc DC, 4 DC,
CH, turn (187)
Rnd 32: 4 sc, puff st, (9 sc, puff st)*18, 2
sc, CH, turn (187)
Rnd 33: 187 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 34: (DC, CH, skip on the base)*93,
DC, CH, turn (187)
Rnd 35: (inc DC, 6 DC)*26, inc DC, 4 DC, Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
CH, turn (214)

Rnd 36: (9 sc, puff st)*21, 4 sc, CH, turn

Rnd 37: 214 DC, CH, turn

Rnd 38: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the

base)*107, CH, turn

Rnd 39: (inc DC, 7 DC)*26, inc DC, 5 DC,

CH, turn (241)
Sleeves:
Rnd 40: 4 sc, puff st, (9 sc, PUFF ST )*23, Join blue yarn to the bottom of the hole
6 sc, CH, turn (241) for the sleeve, as shown in the photo:
Rnd 41: 241 DC, CH, turn

Rnd 42: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the

base)*120, DC, CH, turn (241)

Rnd 43: (inc DC, 8 DC)*26, inc DC, 6 DC,

CH, turn (268)

Rnd 44: (9 sc, puff st)*26, 8 sc, CH, turn

Rnd 45: 268 DC, CH, turn

Rnd 46: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the

base)*134, CH, turn

Rnd 47: (inc DC, 9 DC)*26, inc DC, 7 DC,

CH, turn (295) Crochet in a circle.
Rnd 1: (9 sc, puff st)*6, 5 sc, dec (66)
Rnd 48: 4 sc, puff st, (9 sc, puff st)*29, CH, Decrease on the bottom of the sleeve to
turn (295) avoid the hole:

Rnd 49: 295 DC, CH, turn

Rnd 50: 147 crossed DC, 4 sl st.

56
Rnd 2: 66 DC Crochet the second sleeve similarly:
Rnd 3: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the
base)*33 (66)
Rnd 4: (DC inc, 4 DC)*13, DC inc (80)
Rnd 5: 4 sc, puff st, (9 sc, puff st)*7, 5 sc
(80)
Rnd 6: 80 DC
Rnd 7: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the
base)*40 (80)
Rnd 8: (DC inc, 5 DC)*13, DC inc, DC (94)
Rnd 9: (9 sc, puff st)*9, 4 sc (94)
Rnd 10: 94 DC
Rnd 11: (DC, CH, skip one stitch on the
base)*47 (94)
Rnd 12: (DC inc, 6 DC)*13, DC inc, 2 DC
(108)
Rnd 13: 53 crossed DC, 4 sl st.
Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.
Collar:
Skip 5 stitches from the edge of the upper
part of the mantle and join light gray yarn
to the corner:

57

Rnd 1: inc sc *30, CH, turn (60)
Rnd 2: (4 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 4 sc, skip 2
stitches on the base), 4 sc, 3 sc in one
stitch, CH, turn (62)
Rnd 3: 7 sc, (skip 2 stitches on the base, 4
sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 4 sc)*5, CH, turn (62)
Star (make 7):
Rnd 1: chain 2 with silver yarn and start
working in the second chain from hook 5
sc (5)
Rnd 2: (chain 5, start working in the third
chain from hook 3 sc, sl st to the base)*5
Break yarn, leaving 20 cm tail for sewing.

Rnd 4: (4 sc, (sc, 3 CH, sc – in one stitch),

4 sc, skip 2 stitches on the base)*5, 7 sc
Break yarn, secure, and hide the tail.

58
 Moon (make 4):
Rnd 1: chain 2 with silver yarn and start
working in the second chain from hook 6
sc (6)

Rnd 2: 3 sc in one stitch, 4 sc, 3 sc in one

stitch, CH, turn (10)

Rnd 3: 3 sc in one stitch, 8 sc, 3 sc in one

stitch. (14)
Break yarn, leaving 20 cm tail for sewing.
Embroider the stars:

Embroider a 1.5 X 1.5 cm cross with

silver yarn

Place the stars and moons on the mantle

randomly and sew:

Embroider a smaller cross:

59
Insert the needle and draw it out to the Embroider the stars on the mantle:
first cross close to the center.

Wrong side view:

Embroider as the first cross but make it

small fastening to the center.

60
 Rnd 1: 45 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 2: BLO: (sc, inc)*22, sc, CH, turn (67)
Rnd 3: 67 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 4: 67 sc, CH, turn
Rnd 5: 67 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 6: 67 sc

Our mantle is done:

Join to the first stitch on the other side in

sl st and crochet DC in the same stitch.

Pants:
(with white Alize superlana klassik yarn,
light gray color Pehorka Crossbred Brazil
yarn, 2 mm crochet hook)

Chain 46 with white yarn and start

working in the second chain from hook as
follows:
61
Rnd 7: 66 DC

34 sts

34 DC. Put a marker at the end of the

round.
Rnds 8,10,12,14,16: 67 sc Rnd 18: 34 sc
Rnds 9,11,13,15: 67 DC Rnd 19: 34 DC, 3 sl st. Break yarn. Secure
and hide the tail.

Right leg:
Rnd 17: 3 sc, count 34 stitches on the
base, join the sides in sc, as shown in the Left leg:
photo: Join white color yarn to the left leg, as
shown in the photo:
62
Rnd 17: dec sc, 34 DC
Rnd 18: dec sc, 34 sc Tie the ends into the bows from inside:
Rnd 19: 34 DC, 3 sl st

View inside:
Lace:
Chain 130 with light gray color yarn. Tie
the ends of the chain into the knots. Hide
the yarn tail. Cross lace-up at the top, as
shown in the photo:

63
 Rnd 21: 33 sc
Rnd 22: (10 sc, inc)*3 (36)
Rnds 23-30: 36 sc

Shoes:
(with light gray Pehorka Crossbred Brazil
yarn, a 2 mm crochet hook, button)

Rnd 1: chain 2, leaving 20 cm tail, start Rnd 31: 36 sc, CH, turn
working in the second chain from hook 6 Rnds 32-35: 24 sc, CH, turn
sc (6) Rnd 36: 4 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 4 sc, CH, turn
Rnd 2: (sc, inc)*3 (9) (22)
Rnds 3-5: 9 sc Rnd 37: 4 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 4 sc, CH, turn
Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc)*3 (12) (20)
Rnd 7: 12 sc Rnd 38: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc, CH, turn
Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15) (18)
Rnd 9: 15 sc Rnd 40: 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc, CH, turn
Rnd 10: (4 sc, inc)*3 (18) (16)
Rnd 11: 18 sc Rnd 41: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, CH, turn
Rnd 12: (5 sc, inc)*3 (21) (14)
Rnd 13: 21 sc
Rnd 14: (6 sc, inc)*3 (24)
Rnd 15: 24 sc
Rnd 16: (7 sc, inc)*3 (27)
Rnd 17: 27 sc
Rnd 18: (8 sc, inc)*3 (30)
Rnd 19: 30 sc
Rnd 20: (9 sc, inc)*3 (33)
64

Rnd 42: 5 sc, 4 sc in one stitch, 5 sc, CH,
turn (11)
Put the sides together and crochet in sl st
on the wrong side. Break yarn, secure,
and hide the tail.
65
Skip 1 cm from the edge and join yarn to
the side:
Crochet the top of the shoe:
Rnds 1-2: 17 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 3: dec DC, 13 DC, dec DC, CH, turn
(15)
Rnd 4: dec DC, 11 DC, dec DC (13)
Join the yarn to the other side of the
shoe, as shown in the photo:
Rnds 1-2: 21 DC, CH, turn
Rnd 3: dec DC, 17 DC, dec DC, CH, turn
(19)
Rnd 4: dec DC, 15 DC, dec DC (17)
Rnd 5: crochet around the top of the shoe
in Crab stitch. Break yarn, secure, and
hide the tail.
66
Turn up the front side of the shoe and
sew a blue button to the side of the shoe:
Turn up the toe and sew it to the shoe
with the remaining yarn tail, which we
have left at the beginning of the work.
See the photo:
Crochet the second shoe similarly:
 Rnd 19: (9 sc, inc)*3 (33)
Rnd 20: 33 sc
Rnd 21: (10 sc, inc)*3 (36)
Rnd 22: 36 sc
Rnd 23: (11 sc, inc)*3 (39)
Rnd 24: 39 sc
Rnd 25: (12 sc, inc)*3 (42)
Rnd 26: 42 sc
Rnd 27: (13 sc, inc)*3 (45)
Rnd 28: 45 sc
Rnd 29: (14 sc, inc)*3 (48)
Rnd 30: 48 sc
Rnd 31: (15 sc, inc)*3 (51)
Rnd 32: 51 sc
Cap: Rnd 33: (16 sc, inc)*3 (54)
(with blue color Alize Simli Sal yarn, silver Rnd 34: 54 sc
color Yarn Art Bright yarn, a 2.5 mm and Rnd 35: (17 sc, inc)*3 (57)
2 mm crochet hook, tapestry needle) Rnd 36: 57 sc
Rnd 37: (18 sc, inc)*3 (60)
Rnd 1: chain 2, leaving 20 cm tail, start Rnd 38: 60 sc
working in the second chain from hook 6 Rnd 39: (19 sc, inc)*3 (63)
sc (6) Rnd 40: 63 sc
Rnd 2: 6 sc Rnd 41: (20 sc, inc)*3 (66)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*3 (9) Rnd 42: 66 sc
Rnd 4: 9 sc Rnd 43: (21 sc, inc)*3 (69)
Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc)*3 (12) Rnd 44: 69 sc
Rnd 6: 12 sc Rnd 45: (22 sc, inc)*3 (72)
Rnd 7: (3 sc, inc)*3 (15) Rnd 46: 72 sc
Rnd 8: 15 sc Rnd 47: (23 sc, inc)*3 (75)
Rnd 9: (4 sc, inc)*3 (18) Rnd 48: 75 sc
Rnd 10: 18 sc Rnd 49: (24 sc, inc)*3 (78)
Rnd 11: (5 sc, inc)*3 (21) Rnd 50: 78 sc
Rnd 12: 21 sc Rnd 51: (25 sc, inc)*3 (81)
Rnd 13: (6 sc, inc)*3 (24)
Rnd 14: 24 sc
Rnd 15: (7 sc, inc)*3 (27)
Rnd 16: 27 sc
Rnd 17: (8 sc, inc)*3 (30)
Rnd 18: 30 sc
67
 working in the second chain from hook 8
sc (6)
Rnd 2: inc*8 (16)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)*8 (24)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)*8 (32)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)*8 (40)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc)*8 (48)

Rnd 52: FLO: (DC inc, DC)*40, DC inc

(122)
Rnd 53: 122 DC, 3 sl st. Break yarn,
secure, and hide the tail.

Fold in half, crochet 24 sc, and chain 8.

Break yarn, leaving 20 cm tail for sewing.

Moon:
Rnd 1: chain 2 with light silver color yarn
and a 2.5 mm crochet hook and start

68
 The first moon:
Sew the moon to the top of the cap:

Embroider 3 small stars in any desired

Sew two stars on the cap in the desired place:
position:

69
The cap is done:

70
Congratulation, our stargazer toy is finished… ☺
Thank you for crocheting with me all these days.

71