STEP-BY-STEP

DESCRIPTION
goldfish
telescope
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The final size for the fish is

11*12*6 cm (4.33*4.72*2.36 inch).

Please note that this size may vary

depends on the yarn and size of
crochet hook used.

Before you begin, please read the

whole pattern carefully.

Contents:
Contents: ............................................................................................................................................ 2
Materials and tools:........................................................................................................................ 3
Abbreviations: .................................................................................................................................. 4
General recommendations: ........................................................................................................... 6
Description ........................................................................................................................................ 7

Eyes – 2 PCs. .................................................................................................................................. 7

Body – 1 PC. .................................................................................................................................... 8
Caudal fin – 2 PCs. ..................................................................................................................... 12
Dorsal fin – 1 PC. ........................................................................................................................ 13
Right pectoral fin – 1 PC. ........................................................................................................ 14
Left pectoral fin – 1 PC. .......................................................................................................... 15
Pelvic fin– 2 PCs. ........................................................................................................................ 16
Anal fin– 2 PCs............................................................................................................................ 16

Assembly and design of the toy............................................................................................... 17

Cheat sheet 1: ps2 – puff stitch of 2 hdc........................................................................ 21

Cheat sheet 2: ps3 – puff stitch of 3 hdc .......................................................................22
Cheat sheet 3: How to make decrease with puff stitches ........................................24
Cheat sheet 4: Coloration of goldfish ...............................................................................25
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Materials and tools:

• Yarn YarnArt Begonia 169 in 50 g (185 yds in 1.76 oz), 100 % cotton
mercerized. Yarn analogue Madame Tricote Almina 8/4.
• Steel crochet hook size 1.25 mm (#8 US) for Begonia (or a size that fits
your yarn).
• Fiberfill for stuffing.
• A wooden skewer or a toothpick with a broken tips for stuffing.
• Tapestry needle.
• Scissors.
• Moment Crystal glue.
• PVA Glue + water.
• 2 glass cabochons 8 mm (0.31 inch) for eyes.
• Thread for ties to match the yarn.
• Acrylic paints and brush – for tinting.
• Wire.
• Steel sewing pins
(to facilitate assembly).
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Abbreviations:
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

MC – magic circle.

ch – chain.

sl st – slip stitch.

sc – single crochet.

hdc – half double crochet.

dc - double crochet.

htr – half treble crochet (1. yarn over 2, insert your hook into the next stich, yarn
over, pull up a loop. 2. Yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops. 3. Yarn over, pull yarn
through remaining 3 loops.)
tr - treble crochet (1. yarn over 2, insert your hook into the next stich, yarn over,
pull up a loop. 2. Yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops. 3. Yarn over, pull yarn through
2 loops. 4. Yarn over, pull yarn through remaining 2 loops.)
ps2 - puff stitch of 2 hdc. (1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn
over, pull up a loop. 2. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over,
pull up a loop. 3. Yarn over, pull through remaining 5 loops.)
ps3 - puff stitch of 3 hdc. (1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn
over, pull up a loop. 2. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over,
pull up a loop. 3. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a
loop. 4. Yarn over, pull through remaining 7 loops.)

inc – increasing (2 sc in 1 stitch)

dec – decrease from the front loop, we do when crocheting in a circle or in a spiral
(take front loop for the first sc, take front loop for the second sc, yarn over and
pull yarn through all three loops on hook).
dec.3loop – double decrease from the front loop (take front loop for the first sc,
take front loop for the second sc, take front loop for the third sc, yarn over and
pull yarn through all four loops on hook).
thru.dec – through decrease (pull loop through the first sc, pull loop through the
second sc, yarn over and pull yarn through all three loops on hook).
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dec.ps2 – decrease from the front loop, (1. Yarn over, take front loop for the first
ps, take front loop for the second ps, yarn over and pull up the loop. 2. Yarn over,
take front loop for the first ps, take front loop for the second ps, yarn over and
pull up the loop. 3. Yarn over, pull through remaining 5 loops).
dec.ps3 – decrease from the front loop, (1. Yarn over, take front loop for the first
ps, take front loop for the second ps, yarn over and pull up the loop. 2. Yarn over,
take front loop for the first ps, take front loop for the second ps, yarn over and
pull up the loop. 3. Yarn over, take front loop for the first ps, take front loop for
the second ps, yarn over and pull up the loop. 4. Yarn over, pull through remaining 7
loops).

(…) * n – repeat instructions in brackets n times.

= n – number of loops in a row or in a round. (Attention! The number of loops in a

row may not coincide with the arithmetic operations when counting the connected
columns in cases of connecting asymmetric parts or changing the starting point of
the row).

BLO – crocheting through the back loop only

FLO – crocheting through the front loop only

LO – loop offset. If you do not pay attention to the "loop offset" and work
according to the pattern, then the part can get a little curve. These are features of
crocheting in a spiral. In order to avoid the curvature, in addition to the round
which we finished, we work 1 or 2 sc from the next row and do not count them, but
simply move the marker 1 or 2 sc to the left.

Crochet in a spiral. This means you don’t have to join the beginning and end of each
round with a slip stitch or an invisible join. Instead, you have to continue around,
making the first stitch of each round in the first stitch of the previous round.

Crochet in a joined rounds. Each round will start with a chain to get you up to the
height you need (ch 1 – if you crochet in sc, ch 2 – if you crochet in hdc, ch 3 – if you
crochet in dc). Starting in the first stitch of previous row. Continue crocheting
according to the description. In the end of the row we skip sl st and starting chain
and make sl st into the first stitch of the row.

Crochet in turning rows. Create a turning chain (ch 1 – if you crochet in sc, ch 2 –
if you crochet in hdc, ch 3 – if you crochet in dc). Flip your work. Crochet into the
first stitch of the previous row. Continue crocheting according to the description.
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General recommendations:
 The toy must be crocheted with tight stitches. Avoid small holes when
stretching crochet fabric.
 If there are tiny holes, use a smaller hook size.
 Use a piece of yarn to mark the beginning of a round. Move the marker up
after completing each round.
 Attention! The marker is the center of symmetry and after the 4th row
of the body passes through the center of the abdomen. Where there is a
sc in row, then do LO from sc. Where there is a ps3 in row, then do a LO
from ps3. The amount of LO depends on the crocheting density and the yarn
used. Therefore, the need to crochet offset loops will be different for each
maker. I have indicated where I have had to knit LO for reference only.
 The marking thread points to the first stitch of the new row. If not, unravel
and crochet properly. You cannot compensate for the error with additional
increases or decreases.
 Stuff the body while crocheting.
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Description
The eyes will be involved in the process of making the body, so we will do them first.

Eyes – 2 PCs.
Immediately leaving a tail of yarn 10 cm (4 inch).

Row 1: 15 sc in MC, sl st, we close the ring, but do not tighten it! There should be a hole
6 - 7 mm (photo 1). We direct the tail from the ring inside, but do not crochet or shorten
(photo 2).

Row 2: (sc, dec) * 5 = 10, sl st. Be sure to check, there should be 10 sc in a circle.

Row 3 BLO: 2 dec, we moisten the inner side of the first row with Moment Crystal glue,
insert the eye and crochet another 3 dec (photo 3). Fasten off leaving a tail.

The third row secures the eye. We will involve the eye into the body for the remaining
loops of the 2nd row (photo 3 - index arrows).

If necessary, slightly tighten the amigurumi ring by the left tail. The eyes should be the
same size. Leave to dry (photo 4).

We do not cut the ends of the threads. We will direct them inside the toy when
crocheting the body.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Photo 3 Photo 4
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Body – 1 PC.
Row 1: Make a MC with two yarns (photo 1-3) crochet 12 sc in MC (sc we crochet with one
yarn), we close the ring (photo 4), but do not tighten it. A double thread is needed to
make the lips thicker.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Photo 3 Photo 4

Row 2: fold MC in half inside out, crochet 6 join sl st combining in pairs the inner loops
(photo 5-7, scheme). Or you can sew the loops with a needle. Then we crochet along the
remaining FLO: 4 dec, 4 sc = 8.

Photo 5 Photo 6

Photo 7

Scheme
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After combining the inner loops, the mouth of the fish will close and become not round,
but elongated (photo 1-2).

Photo 1 Photo 2

Row 3: sc 1, 3 ch, skip 1, 2 sl st on the chain (this will be the nostril), 2 sc, 3 ch, skip 1,
2 sl st on the chain (this will be the second nostril), 1 sc, 4 inc = 12 (photo 3-4).

Photo 3 Photo 4

Row 4: inc, skip the nostril, pulling it to the front, 2 inc, skip the nostril, pulling it to the
front, 1 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 = 17 (photo 5). We have 4 loops left uncrocheted to the end of
the row. Move the marker to this point.

Look at the resulting piece of the muzzle - the nostrils should be located symmetrically
above the upper lip.

The marking thread is exactly in the center of the abdomen. We follow the marking
thread. If it deviates from the center to the side, we crochet offset loops.

Photo 5
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Row 5: 1 sc, inc, 5 sc with the eye (photo 1-2), 3 sc in 1 (photo 3), 5 sc with the eye,
4 sc = 20 (photo 4) Be sure to check the symmetry of the eyes. If the eyes are not
symmetrical, unravel the row, add or remove one LO and crochet the row again.

Be careful! You can only remove a single LO, not an increase. Otherwise, you will
change the total number of loops in a row.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Photo 3 Photo 4

Row 6: inc, 2 sc, 5 sc on the eye, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 5 sc on the eye, 3 sc, inc = 23

Row 7: 3 sc, on FLO (hdc, inc htr, inc tr, inc htr, hdc), then crocheting through the both
loops 7 sc, on FLO (hdc, inc htr, inc tr, inc htr, hdc), then crocheting through the both
loops 3 sc = 23 (photo 5-6).

Photo 5 Photo 6
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Row 8: 3 sc, 5 sc on BLO 6th row (index arrow on photo 1), then crocheting through the
both loops, 7 sc, 5 sc on BLO 6th row, then crocheting through the both loops 3 sc = 23
(photo 2).

Photo 1 Photo 2

Row 9: 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc = 26

Photo 3
Row 10 BLO: ch 1, inc ps3, 9 ps3, ps2, inc ps2, 2 ps2,
inc ps2, ps2, 9 ps3, inc ps3 = 30 (photo 3).

Row 11: 11 ps3, 9 ps2, 10 ps3 = 30 + 1 ps3 offset.

Row 12: 10 ps3, 10 ps2, 10 ps3 = 30 + 1 ps3 offset.

Photo
Фото 44
Row 13: 11 ps3, 8 ps2, 11 ps3 = 30

Row 14: 10 ps3, 10 ps2, 10 ps3 = 30 + LO (photo 4)

Row 15: 9 ps3, 4 ps2, 2 dec.ps2, 4 ps2, 9 ps3 = 28

(Cheat sheet № 2).

Row 16: 2 ps3, dec.ps3, 5 ps3, 10 ps2, 5 ps3, Photo 5

dec.ps3, 2 ps3 = 26 + LO

Row 17: 5 dec.ps3, 6 ps2, 5 dec.ps3 = 16

Row 18: 5 ps2, 6 sc, 5 ps2 = 16

Row 19-20: 16 sc, stuff the body with fiberfill and

continue stuffing as you go.

Row 21 BLO: 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec.3loop 1, 3 sc, dec =

12 (photo 5). Photo 6

Row 22: 6 dec = 6, fasten off leaving a small tail.

Pull the hole by the front loops. Hide the tip of the
thread inside the toy (photo 6).
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Caudal fin – 2 PCs.

We crochet in turning rows for the BLO of the previous row.

Row 1: ch 25, skip 2, 7 hdc, 8 sc, 8 sl st = 23

Row 2: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 8 sl st, 8 sc, 7 hdc = 23

Row 3: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 7 hdc, 8 sc, 8 sl st = 23

Row 4: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 8 sl st, 7 sc, 6 hdc, dec hdc = 22

Row 5: ch 2, turn, skip 2, dec hdc, 5 hdc, 8 sc, 7 sl st = 21

Row 6: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 7 sl st, 7 sc, 5 hdc, dec hdc = 20

Row 7: ch 2, turn, skip 2, dec hdc, 5 hdc, 7 sc, 6 sl st = 19

Row 8: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 6 sl st, 6 sc, 5 hdc, dec hdc = 18

Row 9: ch 2, turn, skip 2, dec hdc, 5 hdc, 5 sc, 6 sl st = 17

Row 10: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 6 sl st, 5 sc, 4 hdc, dec hdc = 16

Row 11: ch 2, turn, skip 2, dec hdc, 4 hdc, 5 sc, 5 sl st = 15

Row 12: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 6 sl st, 5 sc, 3 hdc, inc hdc = 16

Row 13: ch 2, turn, skip 2, inc hdc, 4 hdc, 5 sc, 6 sl st = 17

Row 14: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 6 sl st, 6 sc, 4 hdc, inc hdc = 18

Row 15: ch 2, turn, skip 2, inc hdc, 5 hdc, 6 sc, 6 sl st = 19

Row 16: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 6 sl st, 6 sc, 6 hdc, inc hdc = 20

Row 17: ch 2, turn, skip 2, inc hdc, 6 hdc, 7 sc, 6 sl st = 21

Row 18: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 7 sl st, 7 sc, 6 hdc, inc hdc = 22

Row 19: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 8 hdc, 7 sc, 7 sl st = 22

Row 20: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 7 sl st, 7 sc, 8 hdc = 22

Row 21: ch 2, turn, skip 2, dec hdc, 6 hdc, 7 sc, 7

sl st = 21

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing (photo).

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Dorsal fin – 1 PC.

We crochet in turning rows for the BLO of the previous row.

Row 1: ch 4, 3 sl st = 3

Row 2: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 3 sl st, 6 ch = 9

Row 3: turn, skip 1, 2 sl st, 3 sc, 3 sl st = 8

Row 4: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 3 sl st, 3 sc, 2 sl st, 7 ch = 15

Row 5: turn, skip 1, 3 sl st, 3 sc on the chain, 3 sc on the sc previous row, 5 sl st = 14

Row 6: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, 5 sc, 5 hdc = 14

Row 7: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 5 hdc, 5 sc, 4 sl st = 14

Row 8: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, sc, thru.dec, 2 sc, 5 hdc = 13

Row 9: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 5 hdc, 4 sc, 4 sl st = 13

Row 10: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, 4 sc, 5 hdc = 13

Row 11: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 5 hdc, sc, thru.dec, sc, 4 sl st = 12

Row 12: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, 4 sc, 4 hdc = 12

Row 13: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 4 hdc, sc, thru.dec, sc, 4 sl st = 11

Row 14: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 3 sl st, sc, thru.dec, sc, 4 hdc = 10

Row 15: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 4 hdc, 3 sc, 3 sl st = 10 fasten off leaving a tail for sewing
(photo).
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Right pectoral fin – 1 PC.

We start crocheting in a spiral around a chain.

Row 1: 8 ch, skip 1, 4 sc in 1, ch, dc, 2 htr, 2 tr, 5 ch, sl st (photo 1).

Row 2: on the second side of the chain 7 sl st (photo 2).

Then we crochet in turning rows.

Row 3: ch 1, turn, find the protruding bumps just below the crochets and crochet for them
7 sl st (photo 3-4). Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Pull the thread through the
thickness of the crochet to the narrow tip of the fin and secure it with a knot (photo 5).
Hide the second end.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Photo 3 Photo 4

Photo 5
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Left pectoral fin – 1 PC.

We start crocheting in a spiral around a chain.

Row 1: ch 12, skip 6, 2 tr, 2 htr, dc, ch, 4 sc in 1, we were turned to the second side of
crochet (photo 1).

Row 2: on the second side of the chain 6 sl st (photo 2).

Then we crochet in turning rows.

Row 3: ch 1, turn, find the protruding bumps just below the crochets (photo 3, index
arrow) and crochet for them 7 sl st (photo 4). Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Weave
in the yarn end.

Pectoral fins are ready (photo 5).

Photo 1 Photo 2

Photo 3 Photo 4

Photo 5
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Pelvic fin– 2 PCs.

We crochet in turning rows for the BLO of the previous row.

Row 1: ch 14, skip 2, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 4 sl st = 12

Row 2: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, 4 sc, 4 hdc = 12

Row 3: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 4 sl st = 12

Row 4: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, sc, thru.dec, sc, 4

hdc = 11
Photo 1
Row 5: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 3 hdc, thru.dec, 2 sc, 4 sl
st = 10

Row 6: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 3 sl st, 2 sc, thru.dec, 3

hdc = 9

Row 7: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 9 sl st, fasten off leaving a

tail for sewing (photo 1).

Anal fin– 2 PCs.

We crochet in turning rows for the BLO of the previous row.

Row 1: ch 12, skip 2, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 4 sl st = 10

Row 2: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, 3 sc, 3 hdc = 10

Row 3: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 4 sl st = 10

Row 4: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 4 sl st, sc, thru.dec, 3 hdc

=9
Photo 2
Row 5: ch 2, turn, skip 2, 2 hdc, thru.dec, sc, 4 sl st
=8

Row 6: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 3 sl st, sc, thru.dec, 2 hdc

=7

Row 7: ch 1, turn, skip 1, 2 sl st, 2 thru.dec, sl st =

5, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing (photo 2).
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Assembly and design of the toy

1. Sew the dorsal fin in the center of the back, 2 rows from the head line with puffy
stitches (photo 1). Place the short rows of the dorsal fin at the front of the body
(photo 2).

Photo 1 Photo 2

2. Pectoral fins are sewn on the head line for 3 stitches (arrows). There are 6 puff
stitches between the fins. Wide part of the fin should look down (photo 3-4).

Photo 3 Photo 4

3. Sew the pelvic fins symmetrically on the sides of the tummy between the 3rd and
5th rows with puffy stitches. The longest part of the fins should be closer to the
head. Between the front parts of the fins 5 puffy stitches, between the back parts
3 puffy stitches (photo 5-6).

Photo 5 Photo 6
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4. Anal fins sew wide side to the tummy. Between the wide parts 1 puff stitch. Narrow
parts close together and join the free loops of the 20th row (photo 1-2).

Photo 1 Photo 2

5. Sew the tail halves around the free walls of the 20th row. The rounded parts of
the tail (with a trim in the last row) look down (photo 3-4).

Photo 3 Photo 4

6. We make a tightening in the back area. Lay the line symmetrically on both sides.
Start counting puffy stitches from the center of the back down. From head to tail
for each row: at gill covers 6, then 5, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3. Pull it down to half. As a
result, the back stands out and the belly is rounded. I use thread with two needles
to make symmetrical punctures (photo 5-8).

Photo 5 Photo 6

Photo 7 Photo 8
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7. I do tinting at the same time as starching. We dilute PVA glue with water in a ratio
of 1 to 1, mix thoroughly. Soak all the fins well with this solution (photo 1-2).
8. Prepare a hook of wire, hook it on the dorsal fin and find a place where you can
hang, and have access to water and good lighting. I used a photobox, but it's much
more convenient to do it in the kitchen, hanging the hook on the bottom of a
cabinet and lighting with an LED lamp.

Photo 1 Photo 2

9. I took 3 colors: white to highlight the middle zone of the fin, red to darken the
edges and bases, yellow-orange to create a smooth transition between colors. I
didn't buy acrylic paint specifically. I had enough leftovers from a painting by
number. I applied it in strips on the glue-wet fin (photo 3) and pressed the paint
with my fingers in squeezing motions (photo 4). Move from the light middle to the
darker edges. In order not to stain the fish with paint in unintended places, wash
your hands more often. I also diluted the paint with PVA glue and water. Cheat
sheet № 3.

Photo 3 Photo 4

10. In the process of staining, we straighten the fins,

giving them the desired shape. We hang it on a Photo 5
hanger and leave it to dry completely. While the
fish is drying, we approach several times and
correct the shape of the fins (especially the tail
needs correction). My dried fish are excellent on
their fins and do not need hangers or supports
(photo 5).
11. Take a picture of toy and don't forget to share the
photo on social networks with the author's name:
«made by Svetlana Kononenko's MK / HOBBY-MK»
.
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I wish you every success!

I hope to see you soon! 
 Page 21 of 25

Cheat sheet 1: ps2 – puff stitch of 2 hdc

Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch (photo 1) yarn over, pull up a loop (photo 2)
– there are 3 loops on the hook.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Yarn over (photo 3), insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop
(photo 4) – there are 5 loops on the hook.

Photo 3 Photo 4

Yarn over (photo 5), pull through all 5 remaining loops on the hook (photo 6).

Photo 5 Photo 6

Photo 7
Don’t secure the puff stitch with a chain in
this pattern.

This is what 3 ps2 in a row looks like (photo 7).

Back
 Page 22 of 25

Cheat sheet 2: ps3 – puff stitch of 3 hdc

Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch (photo 1) yarn over, pull up a loop (photo 2)
– there are 3 loops on the hook.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Yarn over (photo 3), insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop
(photo 4) – there are 5 loops on the hook.

Photo 3 Photo 4

Yarn over (photo 5), insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop
(photo 6) – there are 7 loops on the hook.

Photo 5 Photo 6
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Yarn over (photo 1), pull through all 7 remaining loops on the hook (photo 2).

Photo 1 Photo 2

Don’t secure the puff stitch with a chain in this pattern.

This is what 3 ps3 in a row looks like (photo 3).

Photo 3

Back
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Cheat sheet 3: How to make decrease with puff stitches

1. Yarn over, take front loop for the first ps, take front loop for the second ps (photo 1),
yarn over and pull up the loop from 2 FLO (photo 2),

Photo 1 Photo 2

2. Yarn over (photo 3), take the same 2 front loops (arrow), yarn over and pull up the loop
from 2 FLO (photo 4),

Photo 3 Photo 4

3. (Do point 2 again, if we make dec.ps3 – photo 5), yarn over, pull through all remaining
loops (photo 6).

Photo 5 Photo 6

Photo 7
This is what 5 dec ps3 in a row looks like
(photo 7).

Back
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Cheat sheet 4: Coloration of goldfish

Before tinting, I recommend you to familiarize yourself with several goldfish colour
options.

Back