Hairy Meatball

Crochet pattern by
 About this toy

Size
27 cm (10.6 ")

Yarn and crochet hook

DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) acrylic yarn (beige, green-blue and white colors) and a 3.25, 2.50
mm crochet HOOK.
DK weight black cotton yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook.

Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain, slip, single, half double crochet and double
crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing of stitches.

How difficult
3. Intermediate

Contact me
If you have any qestions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me via the email
(monoxa.handmade@gmail.com) or Facebook (@monoxatoys).

One serious rule

Contents of this tutorial MAY NOT be copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed
in any way.
You MAY sell finished products, if you credit me as the designer
(@monoxatoys at Facebook and Instagram).

1
 Hi there
J I am so-o-o GLAD that you have chosen me
to be your amigurumi crochet guide and decided
to create HAIRY MEATBALL with my help!

THANK YOU.

It will be fun, I promise.

Let’s begin! J

The plan
1) First, I will give you the list of ABBREVIATIONS, that I am going to use in this tutorial
and remind you of the most common TECHNIQUES.

2) After that, I will show you an INVISIBLE single crochet decrease method.

3) After that, I will explain to you HOW TO READ my patterns.

4) In the next block, I will provide you with the list of MATERIALS AND TOOLS needed
for the Hairy Meatball creation process.

5) Then, I will share with you the long-waited crochet PATTERN.

6) After that, I will explain to you how to SHAPE the FACE of the toy. Finally, I will teach
you how to ASSEMBLE all the details together and share with you some of My TIPS.

2
 Abbreviations and Technology

ch =
chain stitch

sc =
single crochet

sl.st = slip stitch

dc =
double crochet

hdc = half double crochet

inc = increase
Increases look like a
“slingshots” on a crocheted fabric, so it is easy to spot them. You going to need increases to
WIDEN your crochet detail. To increase one stitch, you have to simply work TWO stitches IN
ONE stitch.

dec = decrease = sc2tog

Decrease – is really just
subtracting of a stitch in a
single crochet row. You
going to need decreases to NARROW your crochet detail.

3
dc8into1 – eight double crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch
dc3into1 – that is an increase made of 3 double crochet stitches (three double crochet
stitches are crocheted into one stitch)
hdc6into1 – six half double crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch
hdc2into1 – two half double crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch
sc3into1 – three single crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch

dc8tog – eight double crochet stitches decreased to one

This is how you do dc8tog:
• Yarn over, insert the hook through the front loop of the first stitch, then yarn over and
insert the hook through the front loop of the second stitch… repeat with all 8 stitches
• Yarn over and pull the loop through all 17 loops you have on the hook.

Here is a video on YouTube “How to make dc8tog”: https://youtu.be/qtPC0jFVJ0s

dc3tog – three double crochet stitches decreased to one

This is how you do dc3tog:
• Yarn over, insert the hook through the front loop of the first stitch, then yarn over and
insert the hook through the front loop of the second stitch, then yarn over and insert
the hook through the front loop of the third stitch. You will have 7 loops on the hook.
• Yarn over and pull the loop through the first 3 loops. Yarn over again and pull the loop
through the next 3 loops. Yarn over again and pull the loop through the last 3 loops.

hdc6tog – six half double crochet stitches decreased to one

This is how you do hdc6tog:
• Yarn over, insert the hook through the front loop of the first stitch, then yarn over and
insert the hook through the front loop of the second stitch… repeat with all 6 stitches
• Yarn over and pull the loop through all 13 loops you have on the hook.

hdc2tog – two half double crochet stitches decreased to one

This is how you do hdc2tog:
• Yarn over, insert the hook through the front loop of the first stitch, then yarn over and
insert the hook through the front loop of the second stitch. You will have 5 loops on
the hook.
• Yarn over and pull the loop through the first 3 loops. Yarn over again and pull the loop
through the next 3 loops.
4
sc3tog – three single crochet stitches decreased to one

This is how you do sc3tog:

• Insert the hook through the front loop of the first stitch, then through the front loop
of the second stitch, then through the front loop of the third stitch. You will have 4
loops on the hook.
• Yarn over and pull the loop through the first 3 loops. Yarn over again and pull the loop
through the next 2 loops.

NB! – an abbreviation for the Latin phrase nota bene, meaning “note well.” It is used to
emphasize an important point.

How to make an invisible decrease

The standard method of decreasing is to SC2TOG, which leaves a bit of a bump and a small
gap. On the one hand, it makes it easier to find a decrease if you have lost the count, but on
the other hand, stuffing is going to show through the gaps and bumps will give an uneven
surface… and all the work will look untidy. However, if you promise to be a good girl and
count carefully your stitches, and use stitch marker, I will show you my secret DECREASE
METHOD, that makes decreases INVISIBLE!

1) Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch. Do not yarn
over.

2) Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the
hook (it won’t be easy at first and it will take some time to get to use to this move,
but the result is absolutely worth it!). Yarn over.

3) Draw through the first two loops. Yarn over and draw through all loops.
5
 Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease! J

How to read my pattern

sc # = make n single crochet stitches, one in each stitch.

Number of the row

Pattern, you have to repeat
Number of times
number of stitches in a row after finishing a row……
…

4) {sc 2, inc} * 6 (24)

That means, that in the fourth row you are going to repeat the fragment “two single
crochet stitches, increase” six times and at the end of the row you will get 24 stitches.

6
 Materials & Tools
1) YARN.
DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) BEIGE (color code: 372-357690) acrylic yarn “Alize Baby
Best” (100g – 240mt (3,5 Oz – 262 yards))
– about 150 g (5.3 Oz)

DK weight WHITE acrylic yarn “Alize Baby Best” (100g – 240mt (3,5 Oz – 262 yards))
– about about 20 g (0.7 Oz)

DK weight GREEN-BLUE acrylic yarn “Alize Extra” (100g – 220mt (3,5 Oz – 240 yards))
(color code: 212-35473-) – about 15 g (0.5 Oz)

DK weight BLACK cotton yarn “Camilla 6/4. Madame Tricote” (100g – 250 mt (3,5 Oz
– 273 yards)) – about 15 g (0.5 Oz)

2) 3.25, 2.50- and 2.00-mm crochet HOOKS or according to the yarn.

3) Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc. for STUFFING (about 250g (8,8 Oz))

4) Safety EYES (diameter 9 mm (0.35“))

5) White nylon THREAD

6) YARN NEEDLE, sewing PINS, SCISSORS, stitch MARKER.

J That’s it with the boring staff! Yeho-o-o! Now I invite you to the world of magic stitches!
Our journey begins!

7
 Patterns
Body
NB! Use DOUBLE beige yarn and 3.25 mm crochet hook.

This way you will achieve the desired size faster and the detail will be thicker and will
better hold the shape.

0) Ch 12
1) Sc 3 into the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 9, sc 3 into the last stitch of a chain,
Turn over and start crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 9, leave 1 stitch unworked (24)

2) {Inc 3, sc 9}*2 (30)

3) {(Sc 1, inc) *3, sc 9}*2 (36)
4) Sc 2, inc, {sc 5, inc}*5, sc 3 (42)
5) {Sc 6, inc}*6 (48)
6) Sc 3, inc, {sc 7, inc}*5, sc 4 (54)
7) {Sc 8, inc}*6 (60)
8) Sc 4, inc, {sc 9, inc}*5, sc 5 (66)

8
9) {Sc 10, inc}*6 (72)
10) Sc 5, inc, {sc 11, inc}*5, sc 6 (78)
11) {Sc 12, inc}*6 (84)
12) Sc 84
13) Sc 6, inc, {sc 13, inc}*5, sc 7 (90)
14) Sc 90
15) {Sc 14, inc}*6 (96)

Now work even for 5 rows:

16) – 20) Sc 96

21) Dec, sc 46, dec sc 46 (94)

22) Sc 94
23) Sc 94
24) Sc 30, dec, sc 30, dec, sc 30 (92)
25) Sc 92
26) Dec, sc 44, dec, sc 44 (90)

Now work even for 4 rows:

27) – 30) Sc 90

31) {Sc 13, dec}*6 (84)

32) Sc 84
33) Sc 6, dec, {sc 12, dec}*5, sc 6 (78)
34) {Sc 11, dec}*6 (72)
35) Sc 5, dec, {sc 10, dec}*5, sc 5 (66)
36) {Sc 9, dec}*6 (60)
37) Sc 4, dec, {sc 8, dec}*5, sc 4 (54)
38) {Sc 7, dec}*6 (48)
39) Sc (48)
40) Sc 3, dec, {sc 6, dec}*5, sc 3 (42)

Firmly stuff the detail.

9
41) {Sc 5, dec}*6 (42)
42) Sc 5, {sc 1, dec}*3, sc 9, {sc 1, dec}*3,
sc 4 (36)
43) Sl st 8, leave the row unfinished.

How to close the opening

of the body

1) Thread the yarn tail into a yarn

needle.

2) Sew two sides of the opening together

inserting the needle under the FRONT loops only (marked with the pink color in the
picture below).

3) Make a double knot.

4) Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against
the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

10
Right leg
Use beige yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

NB! See how to make hdc2into1, dc8into1, hdc6into1, dc8tog, dc3tog hdc6tog, hdc2tog,
sc3tog on pages 4-5.

0) Chain 7
1) Sc 3 into the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 4, sc 3 into the last stitch of a chain,
Turn over and start crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 4, leave 1 stitch unworked (14)
2) Inc 3, sc 4, (hdc2into1)*3, sc 4 (Pic 1) (20)
3) (Sc 1, inc)*3, sc 4, (hdc 1, hdc2into1)*3, sc 4 (26)
4) {(Hdc 2, hdc2into1)*3, sc 4}*2 (32)
5) (Hdc 3, hdc2into1)*3, sc 4, (sc 3, inc)*3, sc 4 (Pic 2) (38)

Pic 1: Pic 2:

6) Sc 2, hdc 2, dc8into1, hdc 1, {sc 1, hdc6into1}*3, sc 26 (60)

11
7) Sc 2, hdc 2, dc8tog, ch 1, hdc 1, sc 1, {hdc6tog, ch 1, sc 1}*3, sс 12, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 8
(40)

Here is the video of how to do that: https://youtu.be/qtPC0jFVJ0s

8) Hdc 2, {hdc 2, hdc2tog}*4, sc 11, sc3tog, sc 8 (Pic 3) (34)

9) Hdc1, (sc3tog)*5, hdc 1, sc 7, sc3tog, sc 4, sc3tog (Pic 4) (20)
12
 Pic 3: Pic 4:

Firmly stuff the detail.

10) Dc3tog*3, sc 5, sc3into1 (increase!), sc 5 (16)

11) Sc 1, inc 2, sc 1, both loops: sc 12 (18)

Front loops only:
12) {Hdc 1, hdc2into1}*3, sc 6, inc, sc 5 (22)
13) Hdc 10, sc 5, sc3tog, sc 4 (20)
13
14) Hdc 5, hdc2tog, hdc 5, sc 3, inc, sc 4 (20)
15) {Hdc 1, hdc2into1}*6, {sc 1, inc}*4 (30)
16) Sc 2, inc, {Hdc 2, hdc2into1}*4, sc 2, inc, sc 12 (36)
17) Sc 3, inc, {Hdc 3, hdc2into1}*4, sc 3, inc, sc 12 (42)
18) Sc 5, hdc 20, sc 10, dec, sc 5 (41)
19) Sc 7, hdc 19, sc 4, sl st 1 leave the row unfinished. Finish as an open piece (see description below).

Leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach leg to the body.

How to finish an open piece

1) Make a slip stitch to the next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving about 40 cm (16 in) long tail
(you will use it later to sew detail together). Draw the yarn tail through the loop.

2) Insert the hook through the next stitch from FRONT to BACK and draw the yarn tail
through.

3) Insert the hook through the next stitch from BACK to FRONT and draw the yarn tail
through.

My TIP: See below ANOTHER METHOD, how to finish an open piece in a way that you
cannot spot the ending of the row (it is especially important for such parts as eyes, pupils
and spots on the body, where you definitely need an even edge).

1) Pull the tail under the both loops of the first stitch of the previous row

14
 2) Pull the tail back, under the FRONT loop of the last stitch of the row

Left leg
Use beige yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

In the crochet pattern of the left leg only rows 6 - 8 differ from the crochet pattern of
the right leg.

0) Chain 7
1) Sc 3 into the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 4, sc 3 into the last stitch of a chain,
Turn over and start crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 4, leave 1 stitch unworked (14)
2) Inc 3, sc 4, (hdc2into1)*3, sc 4 (20)
3) (Sc 1, inc)*3, sc 4, (hdc 1, hdc2into1)*3, sc 4 (26)
4) {(Hdc 2, hdc2into1)*3, sc 4}*2 (32)
5) (Hdc 3, hdc2into1)*3, sc 4, (sc 3, inc)*3, sc 4 (38)
6) Sc 4, {hdc6into1, sc 1}*3, hdc 1, dc8into1, hdc 2, sc 24 (Pic 5) (60)

15
 7) Sc 4, {hdc6tog, ch 1, sc 1}*3, hdc 1, dc8tog, ch 1, hdc 3, sc 10, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 8 (Pic 6)
(40)

Pic 5: Pic 6:

8) Sc 2, {hdc 2, hdc2tog}*4, hdc 2, sc 9, sc3tog, sc 8 (34)

9) Hdc1, (sc3tog)*5, hdc 1, sc 7, sc3tog, sc 4, sc3tog (20)
Firmly stuff the detail.

10) Dc3tog*3, sc 5, sc3into1 (inсrease!), sc 5 (16)

11) Front loops only: Sc 1, inc 2, sc 1, both loops: sc 12 (18)
12) {Hdc 1, hdc2into1}*3, sc 6, inc, sc 5 (22)
13) Hdc 10, sc 5, sc3tog, sc 4 (20)
14) Hdc 5, hdc2tog, hdc 5, sc 3, inc, sc 4 (20)
15) {Hdc 1, hdc2into1}*6, {sc 1, inc}*4 (30)
16) Sc 2, inc, {Hdc 2, hdc2into1}*4, sc 2, inc, sc 12 (36)
17) Sc 3, inc, {Hdc 3, hdc2into1}*4, sc 3, inc, sc 12 (42)
18) Sc 5, hdc 20, sc 10, dec, sc 5 (41)
19) Sc 7, hdc 19, sc 4, sl st 1 leave the row unfinished. Finish as an open piece.

Leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach leg to the body.

16
 How shape the legs
Tightening stitches – is a technique that allows to shape different parts of the toy.
I prefer to make shaping stitches using the thick nylon thread, because it is very durable
and doesn’t lengthen out.

1) Fasten nylon thread in the middle of the sole (Pic 7).

2) Bring the long needle above the big toe. Make a stitch (Pic 8).

3) Bring the needle back to sole (Pic 9).

4) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the stitch in.

5) Secure the thread with a double knot.

6) Now bring the needle above the left two fingers. Make a stitch (Pic 10).

7) Bring the needle back to sole (Pic 11).

8) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the stitch in.

9) Secure the thread with a double knot).

17
 Pic 7: Pic 8: Pic 9:

Pic 10: Pic 11:

See the difference between the leg, that has been shaped and the one, that wasn’t:

18
 Repeat the same shaping procedure with the second leg.
Try to make the equal tension of the thread on the both legs!

Eyeballs (2 details)
Use white yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12 )
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) Sc 1, inc, {sc 3, inc} *5, sc 2 (30)
6) {Sc 4, inc} *6 (36)
7) Sc 2, inc, {sc 5, inc} *5, sc 3 (42)
Change the color! Proceed with the black yarn!

How to change the color

19
My TIP is that you change color in the end of previous stitch. That means, that you start the
last stitch (of the old color) as usual, but for the final loop, which you pull through, you are
already using a new color.

8) Back loops only! Sl st 42

Change the color! Proceed with the beige yarn!
9) Back loops only! Sl st 42
10) {Inc, sc 5}*2, {skip 1 stitch, dc8into1, skip 1 stitch, sc 3}*3, sc 2, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 3 (61)

Insert safety eye into the center of the detail.

11) Sc 14, {dc8tog (Pic 12), ch 1 (Pic 13), sc 3}*3, sc 12, dec (Pic 14) (42)

Pic 12: Pic 13:

20
 Pic 14:

12) Sc 2, dec, sc 11, inc, {sc 4, inc}*2, sc 14, dec (43)

13) Sc 1, dec, sc 40 (42)
14) {Sc 5, dec}*6 (36)
15) Sc 2, dec, {sc 4, dec}*5, sc 2 (30)
16) {Sc 3, dec}*6 (24)
Firmly stuff the detail.

21
17) Sc 1, dec, {sc 2, dec}*5, sc 1 (18)
18) {Sc 1, dec}*6 (12)
Firmly stuff the detail.

19) Dec 6, close the opening (see description below).

How to close the opening

1) Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn
needle.

2) Insert the needle from the center and under the front loop only. Draw the yarn
through. Pick up all the remaining stitches the same way.

3) Grab the yarn and pull until the hole is tightly closed.

4) Make a double knot.

5) Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against
the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

Thumb + arm (2 details)

Use beige yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

Thumb:
0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 2, sc 4 (8)
3) Sc 8
4) Sc 7, hdc2into1 (9)

22
5) Hdc2into1, sc 3, dec, sc 1, hdc 1, hdc2into1 (10)
6) Hdc2into1, hdc 1, sc 2, dec, sc 1, hdc 3 (10)

Stuff the tip of the thumb the thread of the

beige yarn.

Do not cut the yarn and start to crochet the

arm.

Arm:

7) Hdc 3, ch 27 (Pic 15), sl st into the 8th stitch of the row 6), leave the row unfinished (Pic 16) (31)

Pic 15: Pic 16:

Move the stitch marker! Start a new row from the place showed in the picture below.

23
8) Sc 5 along the thumb, pix, sc 27 along the chain, sc 1 along the thumb (33)

9) Dec 3, {sc 5, dec}*3, sc 4, dec (26). Pic 17:

10) Dec 2, sc 8, dec 2, sc 10 (22)
11) Inc, sc 1, inc, sc 19 (Pic 17) (24)
12) Sc 2, inc, {sc 7, inc}*2, sc 5 (27)
13) Sc 27
14) Sc 2, inc, sc 12, dec, sc 10 (27)
15) Sc 27
16) Sc 3, inc, sc 23 (28)
17) Sc 28
18) {Sc 6, inc}*4 (32)
19) Sc 32
24
20) Sc 2, inc, {sc 7, inc}*3, sc 5 (36)
21) Sc 3, {inc, sc 2}*2, inc, sc 10, hdc 1, {hdc2into1, hdc 3}*2, hdc2into1, hdc 1, sc 5 (42)
22) Sc 3, inc, {sc 4, inc}*2, sc 8, hdc 2, {hdc2into1, hdc 5}*2, hdc2into1, hdc 1, sc 4 (48)
23) Sc 4, inc, {sc 5, inc}*2, sc 6, hdc 5, {hdc2into1, hdc 3}*3, hdc2into1, hdc 2, sc 5 (55)
20) Sl st 25, sc 4, {hdc 3, hdc2into1}*5, hdc 3, sc 3, sl st 1 leave the row unfinished.

Finish as an open piece, leaving a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach arm to the body.

Nose
Use beige yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

0) Ch 6
1) Sc 3 into the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 3, sc 3 into the last stitch of a chain,
Turn over and start crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 3, leave 1 stitch unworked (12)

2) {Inc 3, sc 3}*2 (18)

3) {(Sc 1, inc) *3, sc 3}*2 (24)
4) {(Sc 2, inc) *3, sc 3}*2 (30)
5) {(Sc 3, inc) *3, sc 3}*2 (36)
6) {Sc 4, inc} *2, hdc 4, hdc2into1, hdc 6, hdc2into1, hdc4, {inc, sc 4} *2 (42)
7) Sl st 7, sc 4, hdc 4, {hdc2into1, hdc 2}*5, hdc 1, sc 4, sl st 7 (47)
8) Sl st 8, sc 4, hdc 25, sc 3, sl st 7 (47)
25
9) Sl st 9, sc 4, {hdc 2, hdc2tog}*5, hdc 3, sc 4, sl st 7 (42)
10) Sl st 9, sc 4, hdc 8, hdc3tog, hdc 8, sc 4, sl st 6 (40)

Finish as an open piece. Leave a long tail (about 30 cm (12 in)) to attach nose to the body.

Lower lip
Use green-blue yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

0) Chain 2 Pic 18:

1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) Sc 12
4) {Sc 3, inc} *3 (15)
5) Sc 15
6) {Sc 4, inc} *3 (Pic 18) (18)

7) Sc 5(Pic 19), sc 1 into the 15th stitch of the 6th row (Pic 20),
sc 3 (9)

26
 Pic 19: Pic 20:

8) Sc 9

9) Inc, sc 8 (10)
10) Sc 10
11) Sc 1, inc, sc 8 (11)

Now work even for 5 rows:

12) – 16) Sc 11
17) Sc 2, dec, sc 4, inc, sc 2 (11)
18) Sc 11
19) Sc 8, inc, sc 2 (12)
20) Sc 12
27
21) Sc 12
22) Sc 12
23) Sc 3, dec, sc 4, inc, sc 2 (12)
24) Sc 1, hdc 5, sc 2, sl st 3, sc 1 (12)
25) Sc 1, hdc 5, sc 3, sl st 3 (12)
26) Sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 5, sc 2, sl st 3 (12)
27) Sc 12
28) Sc 4, dec, sc 4, inc 2 (13)
29) Sc 13
30) Sc 4, inc, sc 8 (14)
31) Sc 3, hdc 5, sc 6 (14)
32) Sc 3, hdc 5, sc 6 (14)
33) Sc 5, dec, sc 7 (13)
34) Sc 13
35) Sc 13
36) Sc 13
37) Sc 3, hdc 2, hdc2into1, hdc 2 , sc 5 (14)
38) Sc 14
39) Sc 14
40) Sc 14
41) Sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)
42) Sc 13
43) Sc 13
44) Sc 13
45) Sl st 2, sc 2, hdc 5, sc 3, sl st 1 (13)
46) Sl st 3, sc 2, hdc 5, sc 3 (13)
47) Dec, sc 11 (12)
48) Sc 12
49) Sc 12
50) Sc 12
51) Sc 2, inc, sc 9 (13)
52) Sc 8, dec, sc 3 (12)
53) Sc 8, dec, sc 2 (11)
54) Sc 11
55) Sc 11
56) Sc 11
57) Sc 9, dec (10)
28
58) Sc 10
59) Sc 10
60) Sc 4, inc, sc 3, dec (10)
61) Sc 10
62) Sc 10
63) Sc 5, ch 9 (Pic 21), sc 5 (Pic 22) (19)

Pic 21: Pic 22:

64) Dec, sc 3, sc 9 along the chain, sc 5 (18))………………………. ……. Pic 23:

65) {Sc 4, dec} *3 (15)
66) Sc 15
67) {Sc 3, dec} *3 (12)
68) Sc 12
69) Dec 6, close the opening (Pic 23).

29
Upper lip
Use green-blue yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

Leave a long tail (about 30 cm (12 in)) to attach upper lip lower lip.

0) Chain 9, join into a circle

1) Ch 1, sc 8 (9) Pic 24:
2) Sc 9
3) Dec, sc 3, inc, sc 3 (9)

Now work even for 4 rows:

4) – 7) Sc 9
8) Sc 1, dec, sc 3, inc, sc 2 (9)
9) Sc 9
10) Sc 9
11) Sc 9
12) Sc 6, inc, sc 2 (10)
13) Sc 10
14) Sc 7, inc, sc 2 (11)
15) Sc 11
16) Sc 11 (Pic 24)

NB! Pink circles on the picture 24 show you the places, where increases have been
made, so you could fold the detail correctly and get the right curve.

17) Sc 8, dec, sc 1 (10)

18) Sc 10
19) Sc 8, inc, sc 1 (11)
20) Sc 11
21) Sc 8, dec, sc 1 (10)
22) Sc 10
23) Sc 7, dec, sc 1 (9)

Now work even for 4 rows:

24) -27) Sc 9
28) Sc 3, inc, sc 3, dec (9)

Now work even for 5 rows:

29) -33) Sc 9
30
34) Sc 6, inc, sc 2 (10)
35) Sc 1, dec, sc 7 (9)
36) Sc 9
37) Sc 9
38) Sc 9
39) Sc 2, sl st 1 leave the row unfinished. Finish as
an open piece.
40)
Leave a long tail (about 30 cm (12 in)) to attach
upper lip lower lip.

How to join the lips

1) Thread the yarn tail (that you have left at the beginning and at the end of the upper
lip) into a yarn needle.

2) Put upper and lower lip together and sew stitches of the openings of the lower lip to
the openings of upper lip.

31
Teeth
Use green-blue yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
NB! This detail will be crocheted in rows, not in rounds, so TURN at the end of each
row.

0) Chain 55
1) Sc 1 into the 2nd stitch, sc 6, hdc 7, {hdc2tog, hdc 4}*4, hdc2tog, hdc 7, sc 6, inc (50)
2) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 1st stitch, sc 6, hdc 7, {hdc2tog, hdc 3}*4, hdc2tog, hdc 7, sc 6, inc (46)
3) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 1st stitch, sc 4, hdc 6, {hdc2tog, hdc 2}*6, hdc2tog, hdc 6, sc 4, inc (41)

Finish as an open piece, leaving a long tail (about 30 cm (12 in)) to attach teeth to the lips.

Armpit hair (2 details)

Use black cotton yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) {Sc 1, ch 22, sl st 21 along the chain, sc 1, ch 14, sl st 13 along the chain, sc 1, ch 19, sl st 18
along the chain, sc 1, ch 16, sl st 15 along the chain}*4
Finish as an open piece, leaving a long tail (about 30 cm (12 in)) to attach armpit hair to the body.
32
My TIP:

If you want the armpit hair to hold the shape, you can strengthen them with sugar syrup (3
ts of sugar to 1/4 glass of hot water).

Fix the hair on some rubber surface (yoga block, yoga mat) with sewing pins and apply some
sugar syrup on them. Leave to dry overnight.

33
 Assembling

How to attach eyeballs to the arms

1) Find the right placement of the arms and attach them to the eyeballs using sewing
pins (Pic 25), (Pix 26).

2) Mark these circles on the eyeballs with the thread of yarn of contrast color.

3) Remove the arms and make sure, that marked areas on the eyeballs have the
same size (Pic 27).

4) Place the opening of one arm exactly on one of the marked area and attach
it again with sewing pins.

5) Now you can start to whip stitch the pieces together:

Go down through BOTH LOOPS of the stitch of the last row of the arm and
bring the needle back directly UNDER the next stitch, grabbing 3-4 mm of
crocheted fabric BEHIND the marked area of the eyeball with it.
NB! Draw the yarn very tight after every stitch!

6) When there are 4-5 whip stitches left to the end, remove the contrast thread
of the yarn, and complete attaching

7) Secure the last stitch with a knot. Use your yarn needle to hide the tail inside your
work, then exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip
it right against the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

8) Repeat with the second arm.

34
 Pic 25: Pic 26:

Pic 27:

How to attach arms to the body

1) Mark longitudinal and transverse central lines of the body with the thread of
contrast yarn.

2) Using the same technique, as you used to attach arms to the eyeballs, sew arms to
the body.

35
Do not stuff the arms to much at the end of the attaching, they should remain soft:
later you are going to make tightening stitches to make them look funny.

36
 How to attach nose body
Using the same technique, as you used to attach arms to the body, sew nose to the body.
The area, where I suggest you to attach the nose is marked with blue thread of yarn in the
picture below and is located on the 5 - 11th row counting from the top of the body.

How to shape the hands

To add some skin folds to the arms, I offer you to make tightening stitches.

1) Fasten nylon thread in the outer foundation of the hand (Pic 28).

2) Bring the long needle under the thumb. Make a stitch (Pic 29).

3) Bring the needle back to the outer foundation of the hand (Pic 30).

4) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the stitch in.

5) Secure the thread with a double knot (Pic 31).

37
 Pic 28: Pic 29: Pic 30:

Before After Pic 31:

6) Now bring the needle to the inner foundation of the hand (Pic 32).

7) Secure the thread with a double knot.

8) Bring the needle under the little finger, to the border, where eyeball meats the arm.
Make a stitch (Pic 33).

9) Bring the needle back to the inner foundation of the hand (Pic 34).
10) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the stitch in.
11) Secure the thread with a double knot.

38
 Pic 32: Pic 33: Pic 34:

12) Repeat steps 1-11) with the second arm too.

39
 How to attach legs to the body
Using the same technique, as you used to attach arms to the body, sew legs to the body.
The areas, where I suggest you to attach the legs are marked with blue thread of yarn in the
picture below and are located on the 6 – 17th row counting from the bottom of the body.
There are 11 stitches between the legs, and the diameter of the areas is 11 stiches long too.

NB! Stuff the legs really firmly at the end of the attaching.

How to attach teeth to the lips

Sew the teeth to the back side of the lips as it is shown in the pictures below.

40
 How to make teeth

1) Make the lengthwise line of black stitches in the middle of the white part of the
mouth (Pic 35).

2) Make the upper row of the teeth (Pic 36).

3) Make the lower row of the teeth (Pic 37).

Those stiches do not have to be very neat: you a making a monster, so he has to
be a little bit crooked.

Pic 35: Pic 36: Pic 37:

41
 How to attach lips to the body
The borders of the area, where I suggest you to attach the lips are marked with blue thread
of yarn in the pictures below. This area is located the 22 – 30th row counting from the
bottom of the body. There are 11 stitches between the nose and corner of the lips (from
the both sides of the nose).

42
 How to attach armpit hair to the body
Just follow the pictures below.

43
 How to make the but cheeks

1) Fasten black thread of yarn at the bottom of the body.

2) Make a long stitch along the centre of the back till the 19th row of the body (counting
from the bottom of the detail)

3) Bring the needle back to the bottom of the body.

4) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the stitch in.

5) Secure the thread with a double knot.

6) Make two short black stitches as it is shown in the picture below to finish the but
cheeks.

44
 How to make decorative stitches
On the eyeballs: On the nose:

On the belly:

45
 How to make hairsprings on the body

1) Cut 5 – 6 cm long pieces (9 – 10 of them) of black cotton yarn.

2) Secure them on the body using the crochet hook as it is shown in the pictures below.

46
 I know, that you cannot believe it, but that is IT!
You made it!
Your HAIRY MEATBALL is alive and it’s the most amazing toy in the world!

If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me on Facebook –
@monoxatoys or via email monoxa.handmade@gmail.com
I hope I will see you again soon!

47