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LINKS TO THE VIDEOS .................................................................... 5

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES .................................................................. 7

ABBREVIATIONS ................................................................................... 8

ARM .............................................................................................................. 9

LEG ............................................................................................................11

BODY-HEAD .........................................................................................13

NOSE ........................................................................................................19

EAR .............................................................................................................19

ASSEMBLY AND DESIGN OF THE HEAD............................20

HOOD ......................................................................................................26

BUTTONS ...............................................................................................29

BELL ...........................................................................................................30
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This PDF file contains 6 videos. Click on the red icon to

watch the video. Be sure your device has an access to the
Internet, because the videos are on YouTube.

Links to the videos:

1. START CROCHETING THE PALM.

2. PUFF STITCH.

3. CROCHETING THE ANCKLE.

4. RIGHT EAR.

5. TIGHTENING.

6. HAIR.
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A toy can be made of different types of yarn. It is important to choose

the appropriate hook size.

YarnArt JEANS
(174 yds./1.76 Oz.)
2 mm hook
a toy height 16 cm/6.3”

* Please, pay attention to the fact that every person has his/her own style
and crochet density. The size of the finished toy may vary from the size
indicated in the pattern.
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73

26
55

40

* in this crochet pattern I made a toy of YarnArt Jeans, using 2 mm hook

 semi-cotton yarn (~330 m/100 gr.) (Gazzal Jeans, YarnArt Jeans, Alize Cotton
Gold, etc.) (yarn consumption of main color is about 50 gr):
- red (clothes, footwear);
- brown (hair);
- cream (head, nose, ears);
* depending on your crocheting
 Alize Softy (115 m/ 50 g (125 yds./ 1.75 Oz))
density, thread tension, crocheting
of white color for crocheting the edge of
method (tick / mixed / cross ←
sleeves and hood;
watch the video), you should
 black thin thread to embroider the eyes;
correctly choose the hook size. I
 2 mm hook;
crochet in a mixed way (capture
 1 jingle bell 14 mm, 2 jingle bells 6 mm;
on top, then capture on bottom),
 (optional) aluminum/copper wire ~2 mm in
strong thread gauge/tension.
diameter for arms and body;
 (optional) band-aid (to wrap wire ends);
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 synthetic/tooth thread for tightening (not necessary but it is stronger);

 (optional) pink artistic pastel;
 sewing needle to sew body parts;
 stitch markers;
 pins with large head;
 scissors;
 fiber filling;
 love.

*U.S. terminology
MR – magic ring;
CH – chain;
SS – slip stitch;
St – stitch;
SC – single crochet;
HDC – half double crochet;
DC – double crochet;
PS – puff stitch (DC4TOG cluster);
INC – increase (work 2 stitches in the same St);
DEC – decrease (2SC together through the front loops);
BLO – back loops only;
FLO – front loops only;
(SC, INC)*6 (18) – repeat the combination in brackets 6 times, the
number in brackets is the total number of St in a round.
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First, we are going to crochet arms, as they are going to be attached

in the process of crocheting.

*start with cream yarn

*stuff well the palm, stuff a bit the rest of the arm
*if you are going to use wire for hands, then stuff only the palm
*crochet 2 details

0. Chain 4;
- work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS) as in all amigurumi toys
(oval-shape detail);
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 2 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from the
hook, on the other side: SC, INC (8);
2. (3 SC, INC)*2 (10);
3. 10 SC;
4. 4 SC, PS, 5 SC (10);
5-6. 2 rounds 10 SC;
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*change color to red;

7. (SC, INC)*5 (15);
8. BLO: 15 SC;
9. 15 SC;
10. (3 SC, DEC)*3 (12);
11-15. 5 rounds 12 SC;
- if necessary, work 1-3 additional SC
to the side edge of the detail (when
folding);
- fix and cut the thread;

Do you know you could finish

crocheting with a neat,
straight line?

- return to Round 8 and work two additional rounds according to the

pattern:
1. FLO: (4 SC, INC)*3 (18);
*change thread to Alize Softy of white color;
2. 18 SC;
- join the first and the last SC with SS in Round 2;
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- tie the ends of threads and hide them inside.

Foot:
*red yarn
*stuff so that the foot is flat at the bottom (see photo)
*crochet 2 details

1. 3 SC in MR;
2. 3 INC (6);
3-4. 2 rounds 6 SC;
5. (INC, 2 SC)*2 (8);
6. 8 SC;
7. (INC, 3 SC)*2 (10);
8. 10 SC;
How do I usually tighten
9. 2 SC, 3 INC, 5 SC (13); the hole and hide the
10. 2 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 5 SC (16); thread end inside.
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11-16. 6 rounds 16 SC;

17. 8 DEC (8);
- tighten the hole, fix the thread and hide it inside.

Anckle:
- mark the square 5 SC by 5 SC between Rounds 17 and 12 on the foot;
- continue crocheting in a circle up starting from the heel (round numbering
starts from the very beginning);

1-5. 5 rounds 18 SC;

6. (5 SC, INC)*3 (21);
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- fasten off on the first leg; it is the left

leg of the elf;

- don’t fasten off on the second leg

(right one), work several additional
SC, so that the end of the round is on
the inner side (see photo);
- continue crocheting the body;

*stitch marker is on the back

*attach both legs to each other and continue
crocheting on the left leg from the side stitch marker
behind according to the pattern:

7. on the left leg: (2 SC, INC)*3, 12 SC, on the

right leg: 12 SC, (INC, 2 SC)*3 (48);
8. (3 SC, INC)*3, 24 SC, (INC, 3 SC)*3 (54);

- if there is a gap between the legs, sew it

with the thread end on the wrong side;
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9-16. 8 rounds 54 SC;

- place the stitch marker exactly in the middle
of the back; make sure that the stitch marker is
exactly in the middle behind until the end of
working all increases in Rounds 17-24 (if
required, shift it);
17. (3 SC, DEC)*3, 24 SC, (DEC, 3 SC)*3 (48);
18. 48 SC;
19. (2 SC, DEC)*3, 24 SC, (DEC, 2 SC)*3 (42);
20. 42 SC;
21. (SC, DEC)*3, 24 SC, (DEC, SC)*3 (36);
22. 36 SC;
23. 3 DEC, 24 SC, 3 DEC (30);
- in Round 24 we are going to attach the arms;
- place the stitch marker exactly in the middle of the back (if required);
- mark 3 SC on each arm (place of attachment);
- thumbs forward;
- for accuracy of attachment mark 3 SC on the sides on the body at a
distance of 12 SC on the chest and on the back;
- if required, adjust (shift) the stitch marker in Round 24;
12 SC
3 SC
3 SC

12 SC
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24. 6 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 12 SC, 3 SC with

the arm, 6 SC (30);
25. 6 SC, 9 SC on the outer edge of the
arm, 12 SC, 9 SC on the outer edge of the
arm, 6 SC (42);

26. (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36);

27. (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30);
- now you can insert wire in arms and body (optional), so that their
position can be fixed;
- but the toy can be made without it;
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- cut off 2 parts of wire for arms longer than the arm itself (about one and
a half times), and one part of wire for head and body (see photo);

- bend the wire ends and wrap them with fabric patch or tape;

- insert the wire pieces into the hands and body and twist the wire for
hands around the wire for the body;
- fix the place of twisting with patch;
- stuff well the body and hands so that the wire inside is fixed;
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28. (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24);

29. (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18);

*change color to cream;

*stuff in process;
30. BLO: 18 SC;
31. (SC, INC)*9 (27);
32. (2 SC, INC)*9 (36);
33. (3 SC, INC)*9 (45); To make it easier to
34. (4 SC, INC)*9 (54); crochet the hood in the

35. (8 SC, INC)*6 (60); future, you can start

crocheting it before the
36-39. 4 rounds 60 SC;
head crocheting is
completed.
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- shift a stitch marker exactly in the middle of the

back of the head;
40. 17 SC, (DEC, 3 SC)*5, DEC, 16 SC (54);
41-45. 5 rounds 54 SC;
46. (7 SC, DEC)*6 (48);
47. 48 SC;
*change color to brown;
48. (6 SC, DEC)*6 (42);
49. BLO: (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36);
50. (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30);
51. BLO: (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24);
52. (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18);
53. BLO: (SC, DEC)*6 (12);
54. 6 DEC (6);
- don’t tighten the hole, since we will design
the face through this hole and hide the
thread ends there.
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*cream yarn
1. 6 SC in MR;
2. 6 SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end for sewing.

*cream yarn
Right:
1. in MR: 2 SC, HDC, chain 2, (start in the 2nd chain
from the hook) SC, DC, HDC, 4 SC (10);
- tighten the MR, fix the thread and leave a long
end for sewing.

Left:
1. in MR: 4 SC, HDC, DC, chain 2, (start in the 2nd
chain from the hook) SC, HDC, 2 SC (10);
- tighten the MR, fix the thread and leave a long
end for sewing.
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- mark the place of tightening the

eyes and smile: 2 lines of 4 SC
between Rounds 40 and 41 at a
distance of 4 SC and 2 lines of 1
SC 5 rounds lower at a distance
of 4 SC between them;
- tighten each eye separately
(see photos and watch video);
- do the tightening with the strong
synthetic thread (e.g. tooth thread);
- insert the needle in the lower point, lead it through the upper points
and lead back to the lower side point;
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- stretch the thread, tie several knots;

- after the second eye is tightened, withdraw both threads through the
head to the hole upwards, stretch the threads and tie them;
- hide thread ends inside;
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- stuff cheeks and chin, if required;

- mark place of embroidering the

eyes (Round 41) and smile (area
of the lower tightening);
- insert the sewing needle with black
thin thread from below and withdraw
it near side pin;
- stretch the thread above the pins,
insert the needle to the opposite
side point and fix the thread with 2
stitches in points marked with pins in
the middle;
- embroider eyelashes and smile;
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- embroider eyebrows two rounds higher than eyes at a distance of 6 SC

between them;

- sew the nose in Round 39;

- sew the ears on the sides between
Rounds 41 and 37;

- blush the cheeks with pink artistic

pastel (optional);
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- tighten the hole in the head;

- crochet the hair with brown
yarn FLO in Rounds 53, 51 and
49 according to the pattern:
chain 10, SC, chain 10, SC etc.,
until the end of Round 49;
- fix thread ends and hide them
inside;
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Ponytails for the girl:

*crochet 2 details
- chain 16;
- work SC in the 16th chain from the hook (work all further chain series in
this loop);
- chain 15;
- work SC in the loop, where you have worked the previous SC;
- repeat 8 more times (in total, there should be 10 chain series, joined in
one loop);
- leave long end for sewing;
- sew on the sides of the head;
- wrap with ribbon or thread and tie the bow.
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*red yarn

- turn back to Round 30 of the body,

to front loops;
- leave 4 front loops in the middle
4
unworked;

- start crocheting the hood in the

front loop on the side of four
unworked middle front loops;
- make a turn and work a turning
CH at the end of each row;

1. FLO: 2 SC, 10 INC, 2 SC (24);

2. 2 SC, (SC, INC)*10, 2 SC (34);
3. 2 SC, (2 SC, INC)*10, 2 SC (44);
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4-33. 30 rows 44 SC;

- probably you have to crochet
more or less repeated rows, try
on the hood folded around the
head for accuracy;

- fold the upper edge of the hood in half from the wrong side and
crochet both sides together with SS;
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- fix the thread and withdraw it on the front side, you will use it to sew the
jingle bell on the hood;

- attach the thread of Alize Softy

of white color to the second
unworked front loop in the middle
and crochet around the hood with
SC, including the unworked front
loops in the middle;
- fix the thread and hide it inside.
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*Alize Softy of white color

*crochet 3 details
1. 6 SC in MR;
- join the first and the last SC jf the round with SS;
- fix the thread and leave a long end for sewing;
- sew them to
the body;

- sew jingle bells to the hood and toes.

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*yellow yarn

1. 5 SC in MR;
2. 5 INC (10);
3. (SC, INC)*5 (15);
4-8. 5 rounds 15 SC;
9. (2 SC, INC)*5 (20);
10. SC, INC, (3 SC, INC)*4, 2 SC (25);
- fix the thread and hide it between the loops from the wrong side;

- cut off the long yellow thread;

- fold in half and withdraw it through the top
inside the bell;

- tie the knot from the outside on

the top;
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- put the jingle bell or the bead

on the thread and tie the knot
inside the bell.