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Rockin’ Robin Afghan Square

By Lettice Rose

We have cake with icing and a cherry on the top, we have candles, we have party poppers with streamers! The
records are ready to spin, and the skirts are ready to be twirled above the heads. It is party time!
This square was designed to celebrate a birthday, and in response to a long running joke in the Ravelry Block-
a-Month Crochet Along group. Come to the party and enjoy yourselves!

Materials: Sample was made using Stylecraft Special DK, and a 4mm hook
Yarn Colour A, (cherry, candle flame, frilly skirt) Rose
Yarn Colour B (the icing on the cake) Cream
Yarn Colour C (candles, record labels) Meadow
Yarn Colour D (record discs) Mocha
Yarn Colour E (lacy background) Parchment
Size: Fine DK with an E/4/3.5mm hook comes up 9”, heavy DK with a G/6/4mm hook comes up 9.75”, worsted
weight with an H/8/5mm hook comes up 12”.

© 2016 Lettice Rose Rockin’ Robin Afghan Square Page 1 of 4


Stitches and abbreviations used. (US crochet terms)

Back loop only (BLO) Double crochet (dc) Slip stitch (sl st)
Chain stitch (ch) Front loop only (FLO) Stitch(es) (st(s)
Colour A (CA) Front post single crochet (fpsc) Three double crochet cluster (3-dc cl)
Colour B (CB) Half double crochet (hdc) Treble crochet (tr)
Colour C (CC) Single crochet (sc) Treble crochet three together (tr3tog)
Colour D (CD) Single crochet two together (sc2tog) Two treble crochet cluster (2-tr cl)
Colour E (CE) Yarn over (yo)

Special Stitch
Treble crochet three together (tr3tog):
[Yo twice, insert hook in next st, yo and pull through
st, [yo and pull through two loops on hook] 2 times,
skip 2 sts] 2 times, yo twice, yo and pull through st,
[yo and pull through two loops on hook] 2 times, yo
and pull through all four loops.

At the end of a round, when colours change, an invisible join will make a neater finish and is especially
recommended on Round 20. Similarly, a standing stitch would be better than a starting chain at the beginning
of a round. There is a lot of use of front and back loop only technique; this produces the pattern of the groovy
record discs, and in some rounds, leaves the other loop free to be used in subsequent rounds. So it really is
essential.

Instructions
Using Colour A, ch 4, sl st to first ch, to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), 12 sc into ring, sl st to beginning sc to join (12 sc). Finish off CA.
Round 2: Work in BLO. Attach CB to back loop of any sc, 2 sc into same st [sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next st]] 5
times, sc in next st,, sl st to beginning sc to join (18 sc).
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, [ch 1, skip 1 sc, 2 dc in next sc] 8 times, ch 1, sl st to top of
beginning ch-3 to join (18 dc, 9 ch-1).
Note: Rounds 4 and 6 are worked in tapestry crochet, which uses two colours at a time. The working yarn is
held as usual while the carried yarn is held flat along the top edge; the carried yarn is crocheted over, and
covered by, the stitches being made with the working yarn.
To change colours: work stitch as usual up to the final yarn over, at that point, drop the working yarn, pick up
the carried yarn and pull through final two (or three, or four) loops on hook to finish the stitch. The working
yarn and carried yarn simply switch places.
Round 4 alternates single crochet in CB, with treble clusters in CC. Work as usual up to the final sc in CB, and
then pull CC through for the very last step of the sc. Stitch over CB as you form the treble cluster in CC, but pull
CB through the last three loops of the cluster. There are tapestry crochet tutorials on the internet.

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Round 4: (CB) Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, (CC) 2-tr cl in skipped Round 2 sc (working in front of Round 3
ch-1), [(CB) sc in next st, 2 sc in next st (CC) 2-tr cl in skipped Round 2 sc] 8 times, (CB) sl st to beginning sc to
join (27 sc, 9 tr-2 cls). Finish off CC only, keeping CB on the hook.
Round 5: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in same sthdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip 2-tr cl, 2 hdc in next st,
hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times, ch 1, sl st to top of beginning ch-2 to join (45 hdc, 9 ch-1).
Round 6: (Use the same tapestry technique as in row 4) (CB) Ch1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 3 stsk, 2 sc
in next st, (CA) 3-dc cl in skipped Round 4 2-tr cl (working in front of round 5 ch-1), [(CB) sc in each of next 4
sts, 2 sc in next st, (CA) 3-dc cl in skipped Round 4 2-tr cl] 8 times, (CB) sl st to beginning sc to join (54 sc, 9 dc-3
cls). Finish off CA only, keeping CB on the hook.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in same st,, sc in each of next 5 st, fpsc around dc cluster, sc in each of next 6 sc, fpsc around
dc cluster, sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, fpsc around dc cluster, [(sc in each of next 6 st, fpsc around dc
cluster) 2 times, sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, fpsc around dc cluster] 2 times, sl st to first sc to join (66
sc). Finish off.
Rounds 8 to 12 are gradually building up the record disc shapes. All stitches in the actual discs are worked in
the back loop only (BLO) to form the record grooves. The slip stitches between them need to be worked in both
loops to keep them as low as possible. WORK SLIP STITCHES LOOSELY! You need to stitch into them on
subsequent rounds. The base of Round 8 will be entirely hidden by surface crochet later, so don't worry if the
back loops at the centre of the discs pull a little.
Round 8: Important: This entire row is worked in back loop only (BLO). Attach CC with a sl st to the back
loop of any fpsc, sl st in each of next 5 sc, [skip 1 sc, (hdc, 7 dc, hdc) in next sc, skip sc, sl st in each of next 8 sc]
5 times, skip sc, (hdc, 7 dc, hdc) in next sc, skip sc, sl st in each of next 2 sc. Remove yarn from hook, pull
through and with darning needle joi invisibly to the first sl st, to join (48 sl st, 12 hdc, 42 dc - Six “discs” each
with 9 stitches separated by 8 sl st). Finish off. (This round forms the record labels.)
Round 9: Important: All scs are worked in BLO, all sl sts are worked in both loops. Attach CD with a sl st to
the first hdc of any disc, ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of
next 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, skip sl st, sl st in each of next 6 sl st, skip sl st, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next
st, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, skip sl st, sl st in
each of next 6 sl st, skip sl st,] 5 times, sl st to first sc to join (Each disc has 12 sc, separated from the next disc
by 6 sl st. 72 sc, 36 sl st total).
Round 10: Important: All scs are worked in BLO, all sl sts are worked in both loops. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in
each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, skip sl st, sl st in each of
next 4 sl st, skip sl st, [sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3
sts, skip sl st, sl st in each of next 4 sl st, skip sl st, ] 5 times, sl st to first sc to join (Each disc has 14 sc,
separated from the next disc by 4 sl st; 84 sc, 24 sl st total).
Round 11: Important: All scs are worked in BLO, all sl sts are worked in both loops. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in
each of next 2 sc, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sc] 2 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 st, skip sl
st, sl st in each of next 2 sl st, skip sl st, [[sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in each of next 2 st,
skip sl st, sl st in each of next 2 sl st, skip sl st] 5 times, sl st to first sc to join (Each disc has 17 sc, separated
from the next disc by 2 sl st; 102 sc, 12 sl st total).
Round 12: Important: All scs are worked in BLO, all sl sts are worked in both loops. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in
each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc into next 5 st, skip sl st, sl st in next sl
st, [[sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next st] 2 times, sc in each of next 5 sc, skip sl st, sl st in next sl st] 5 times, sl
st to first sc to join (Each disc has 19 sc, separated by 1 sl st; 114 sc, 6 sl st in total). Finish off.

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On Round 13 you would be well advised to count very carefully, and fudge if necessary to get 19 sc in every
disc, separated by a sc2tog. Counting now will make the rest of the square easy.
Round 13: Still working in BLO to define the discs. Attach CB with a sl st to the second sc of any disc, ch 1, sc
same stitch, sc in each of next 4 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts] 2 times, [sc2tog (this will be in last
sc of one disc and the first of the next, skipping the sl st in between), [sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2
times, sc in each of next 5 sts] 5 times, sc2tog, sl st to first sc to join (114 sc, 6 sc2tog). Finish off.
In Round 14, the tr3tog are worked with two stitches skipped between each leg of the stitch, ie over 7 stitches,
read the full instructions under “Special Stitches”, above.
Round 14: Attach CE with a sl st to any sc2tog (between discs), ch 4, skip 2 st, tr in next st, [ch 2, skip st, dc in
next st, ch 2, skip st, hdc in next st, [ch 1, skip st, sc in next st] 2 times, ch 1, skip st, hdc in next st, ch 2, skip st,
dc in next st, ch 2, skip st, tr3tog over next 7 sts] 5 times, ch 2, skip st, dc in next st, ch 2, hdc in next st, [ch 1,
skip st, sc in next st] 2 times, ch 1, skip st, hdc in next st, ch 2, skip st, dc in next st, ch 2, skip st, tr in next st,
skip beginning ch-4, sl st to top of first tr to finish last tr3tog (6 tr3tog, 12 dc, 12 hdc, 12 sc, 24 ch-2, 18 ch-1).
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 5 sts, place marker in last st made, continue to sc around,
placing 1 sc in every stitch, 1 sc in every ch-1 space, 2 sc in every ch-2 space, sl st to first sc to join. (108 sc)
Finish off.
Round 16: All stitching in this round is in BLO, when stitching the corners you may wish to stitch into the back
bar as well for stability. Attach CD with sl st in BLO of marked st, ch 4 (counts as tr), (2 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in same
stitch, [tr in each of next 3 st, dc in each of next 3 st, hdc in each of next 3 st, sc in each of next 2 st, sl st in
each of next 4 st, sc in each of next 2 st, hdc in each of next 3 st, dc in each of next 3 st, tr in each of next 3 st,
(3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in next st,] 3 times, tr in each of next 3 st, dc in each of next 3 st, hdc in each of next 3 st, sc in
each of next 2 st, sl st in each of next 4 st, sc in each of next 2 st, hdc in each of next 3 st, dc in each of next 3
st, tr in each of next 3 st, sl st to top of beginning ch-4 (48 tr, 24 dc, 24 hdc, 16 sc, 16 sl st, 4 ch-3).
Round 17: Adjust these last rows in height if necessary to achieve the correct size. Ch 2, hdc in each of next 2
sts, [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc,) in corner space, hdc in each of next 32 st] 3 times, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner space,
hdc in each of next 30 st, sl st to top of beginning ch-2 to join (144 hdc, 4 ch-2). Finish off.
Round 18: Attach CE to any hdc, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in every st around, working 3 sc in ch-2 corner spaces,
sl st to first sc to join. (156 sc). Finish off.
The following rows are all added as surface crochet. Round 19 will produce a frill which stands up and away
from the surface, and will hide the stitches at the base of the record in Round 8.
Round 19: (Worked in FLO of Round 7.) Attach CA to FLO of any Round 7 sc, ch 2, hdc in same st, [ch 1, 2 hdc
in next st,] 65 times, ch 1, sl st to top of beginning ch-2 to join (132 hdc, 66 ch-1).
Round 20: (Worked in FLO of Round 15, making sure you stitch fairly loosely.) Attach CA to front loop of any
Round 15 sc, sl st in FLO of every sc around. Remove yarn from hook, pull through and with darning needle
join to the first sl st to join (108 sl st). Weave in end.
Round 21: (Optional, adding the party streamers) With CA, ch 8, sl st around front post at top of Round 14
tr3tog, ch 6. Finish off, weaving ends carefully down length of chain. With CB, ch 9, sl st around front post at
top of round 14 tr3tog (right below previous chain), ch 7. Finish off, weaving ends carefully down length of
chain. Repeat five times around Round 14, varying colours and lengths at your discretion.
Weave in ends and block.
Thank you to my eagle eyed and diligent testers, Berniece, Bethany, Jilly, Lynne and Pam. And especially to
Joyce who advised and tech edited the pattern for me. Ladies, you are much appreciated.

© 2016 Lettice Rose Rockin’ Robin Afghan Square Page 4 of 4

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