Wood working tools and equipment

#1: The Claw Hammer

Let’s start with perhaps the most basic tool in every household – the claw hammer. The
claw on one side of the head should be well counterbalanced by the finished head,
which should be somewhat rounded.

The other kind of head is the waffle head. Most commonly used in construction, it
leaves a distinctive waffle mark on the wood when you drive the nail. This, of course, is
not the proper nail for woodworking.
The most commonly purchased claw hammer is the 20 oz. size. It’s heavy enough to
drive nails but easily manipulated when pulling nails easily.

#2: The Tape Measure

The next important hand tool for the woodworker is an accurate tape measure. Get a
retractable one that is at least 25 feet long. You start having problems getting it to roll
back up any longer than that.

Since measurements on large-scale projects can be very susceptible to even the most
minute measurement variations, you’ll want to ensure the “hook” or tab at the end is
firmly attached, with no give. You’ll have as much as 1/8” variation when they get loose
in your measurements. This can add up to some severe accuracy problems in the long
run.
#3: The Utility Knife

A good >utility knife is another asset for the woodworker. There are many different
kinds, but the kind that uses disposable blades is the most common. The blade retracts
into the grip for safety. The woodworker will use the utility knife when cleaning out
mortise joints or scribing wood, as well as many other uses.

#4: The Moisture Meter

A quality wood moisture meter is vital to the long-term success of any woodworking
project you put together. Lumber mills try to dry their batches of lumber according to the
intended end product destination. That is, if the wood is harvested in the wet Northeast
but shipped to the arid Southwest, it will be dried more than wood kept in the Northeast
for use by woodworkers.
The success of your woodworking project, from wood flooring to kitchen cabinets to fine
furniture, depends on the correct moisture content levels of the woods you use for your
area of the country.

#5: The Chisel

An assortment of chisels should be part of every workbench. Chisels are not just for
woodcarvers. Any woodworker will need chisels to clean out joints and saw cuts. Look
for chisels made of high-alloy carbon steel or chromium-vanadium alloyed steel.
Hardwood grips are best, especially if they have metal caps on them. This will keep the
end of the handle from becoming malformed when you hammer on it.
You’ll need a variety of sizes in ¼” increments from ¼” to at least 1½”. The smallest
chisels are best for mortise work. The ¾” and 1” will be best for door hinges, and the
1½” works well for chipping out. You can even get a corner chisel that cuts a notch out
of the wood with the blow of a hammer, much like a hole punch.
Most chisels are beveled on the 2 sides and the cutting edge, but specialty chisels may
only be beveled at the cutting edge. This bevel will be at 20 to 25 degrees down the
length of the blade on one side and flat on the backside. The blade will be between 4”
and 7” long.

#6: The Level

Every woodworker needs a couple of levels. You probably won’t need one of the 6-foot
levels used in construction, but 48” is a good length for many of the woodworking
projects you’ll do.
Usually, you’ll also need an 8” level too, usually known as a torpedo level. You’ll check
the level and plum of your construction. Level means horizontal, and plumb is vertical.

#7: The Screwdriver

Screwdrivers are another must-have in the woodworker’s set of hand tools. Quality
construction is vital to a good set of screwdrivers. So many of them are made out of soft
metal, and the first time you put any “oomph” behind them, they strip out, becoming
useless.
You’ll need a long screwdriver with a square blade that is very heavy-duty. This gives
you a lot of torque. You’ll also need a small and medium slot screwdriver.
For working on cabinets or tight places in woodworking, you’ll need a screwdriver with a
thin shank so that you can reach screws that are inside of deep holes. This is
accomplished with a cabinet screwdriver.
Get a couple of medium Phillips head screwdrivers and a stubby one, too, for those tight
places. You may also want a ratcheting screwdriver.

#8: The Nail Set

The next hand tool every woodworker should have is a nail set. In fact, you should
have several sizes. They look like awls, and you use them to drive nail heads into the
wood so they are flush or right below the surface. This allows you to fill the holes and
prepare for staining or painting.
The nail setter will usually have either a convex or concave surface to grip the nail
better and keep it from sliding off and marring the wood.

#9: The Sliding Bevel

If you’re going to be measuring a bunch of angles, a sliding bevel, or T-Bevel, will be a

handy tool. This is adjustable, and you can lock it at the angle you want to mark, making
it much more time-savvy to mark multiple angles.

#10: The Layout Square

A layout square, or combination square, comes in 6” and 12” sizes. Most woodworkers
use the 6” model simply because it’s easiest to carry around. Also, most of the stock
you’ll use will be no bigger than 6” wide, so 12” is overkill.
The layout square is a triangle you can use to mark square cuts on stock. Once you
measure the length of the cut, you line up the layout square with the edge of the board.
The short side will give you a straight, square cut across the end grain.
You can also measure off angles with the layout square. This helps when measuring for
a bevel on a table saw or marking a cut for a miter saw. You can even use your layout
square to determine an existing angle.
Just be sure to buy one made of metal. The plastic ones are not only fragile, but they
also can warp, making them pretty useless.

#11: The Hand Plane

A hand plane is a key to versatility in your woodwork. You can flatten a piece of wood,
add a curve to it, or square your work. Shape or chamfer your stock using a block plane.
Once you have a piece dovetailed, you can smooth the joint with your hand plane,
rather than spend endless time sanding. Your plane can ease the edges of a piece,
taking the sharpness out of it.

It is most important to make sure the blade of the hand plane is sharp. Use a little bit of
oil on the sharpening stone and hold the bevel flat against the stone. Raise the heel a
little, and hone it. It will form a burr, but that’s OK. Just turn the blade over and rub it on
the stone on the flat side. It will remove the burr. A cap screw holds the blade in place,
and this is where you adjust the depth of plane you want to cut.

If you’re performing fine work, you’ll measure the blade at about 1/64”. For more general
work, you’ll go with as much as 1/16”. Roll the pressure from the back of the plane to
the front as you complete the cut so that you don’t end up with arching. If you’re going
to plane end grain, plain both ends toward the middle to keep from tearing up the
outside edge.
#12: The Caliper

A set of calipers is a must for fine-tuning your woodworking projects. You can even get
digital calipers now that leave no guesswork as to whether you were inside or outside
the line. Of course, the metal ones are always recommended over those made of
plastic, even though the plastic ones are cheaper.
Calipers have a double “F” appearance. To one side is a large “F”, used to measure the
outside of an object. To the other side will be a smaller “f”, used to measure the inside
of openings. You loosen the screw to move the lower “lip” of the caliper, then tighten the
screw into place when you have the caliper placed correctly.
You’ll use the inside calipers to measure slot diameters, hole diameters, and dado
widths, among other things. There is also a depth gauge in the end of calipers that will
allow you to measure the depth of slots and holes. You just rest the end of the caliper
on the edge of the hole and twist the thumbscrew until the probe reaches the bottom of
the hole. Then, you can take your reading. If you need to measure the exact thickness
of something attached to a flat surface, you can use the calipers to determine the
thickness by placing the butt of the caliper end against the flat surface, and use the
inside caliper lip that’s closest to your hand to record the surface of the item you’re
measuring. The distance from the backside of that caliper lip to the end of the caliper is
the thickness of the piece you’re measuring.
While calipers will measure up to 1/1000ths of an inch, you won’t need that kind of tight
tolerance. Remember that wood is an organic material, it expands and contracts with
the relative humidity and with temperature fluctuations. Trimming everything to
1/1000ths tolerance will not leave the piece enough room to breathe.

#13: The Clamp

Clamps are vital to the success of any woodworking project. Most woodworkers agree
that you can’t have too many clamps. While they can get expensive, you don’t want to
skimp in this area. You’ll need clamps for 45 and 90-degree joints, and pipe clamps to
reach for long stretches. You usually purchase the pipe clamp fixtures and insert your
own pipe into the fixtures to make a really strong clamp to the size you need. C-clamps
and F clamps are standard, but now you can get K camps, too. The great thing about
these is that they can reach a long way into your work area and clamp things in the
middle of your workspace. Deep-throated bar clamps and C clamps will help with this.
You can’t get by without a selection of quick grip clamps in various sizes. These are
available with spreaders of 12” or more, all the way down to micro-mini clamps for toy
construction. An edge clamp will hold laminate trim onto the edge of a counter or table
top. A strap clamp will wrap around any shape, and pull the joints together. Spring
clamps are handy for holding a piece steady. The main difference between quick
clamps and spring clamps is that the quick clamps slide into position with one hand.
When you release them, they lock into place. Spring clamps are like big clothespins.

#14: The Jig

You don’t have to measure every single cut and joint if you have jigs. Most
woodworkers make their own jigs. You usually use a jig with a power tool, to guide the
piece through the saw. You can make a jig that you can use to cut a perfect circle.
Maybe you need to make furniture with tapered legs. A jig will accomplish this, without
the hassle of re-marking the angles on each leg. A dovetail jig does just that – it guides
your wood as you make dovetail joints.

#15: The Hand Saw

A high-quality hand saw should not be overlooked. In fact, a select collection of hand
saws may be one of the most valuable additions to your woodworking shop. You don’t
have to use a power saw on everything – in fact, you probably won’t want to. You need
to be able to feel the wood’s response under the saw blade, and the saw blade’s
response to the wood. Besides a coping and a tenon saw, you may want a dovetail saw
and a hand miter saw, too. In fact, for many woodworkers, a fine collection of Japanese

saws is the backbone of their craft.

For general use, start out with a fretsaw for woodworkers – it’s like a coping saw for
wood. You need a mini saw, too, for areas in which a chisel just won’t work. Then, a
good tenon saw should follow, along with a miter box that you can use with the tenon
saw. Other saws, with their variety of cutting surfaces and angles, will come as the need
arises.

#16: The Feather Board

Feather boards are important for achieving smooth, quality cuts. You’ll use a feather
board with all kinds of saws and other cutting surfaces to push the material past the
cutting edge. You can make your own feather boards, or purchase them instead. Most
woodworkers find it easier to just make them so that they suit their own needs.

#17: The Metal Detector

No, you’re not looking for buried treasure with your metal detector. You’re looking for
something that could ruin your treasures – namely, your woodworking tools. It is of vital
importance to keep metal out of your cutting surfaces, or you’ll ruin blades, bits, and
knives on your tools. A quick scan with a metal detector will let you know if there is a
piece of screw or nail still lodged in your stock. You’ll find out anyway, it’s just nice to
find out before you ruin your tools.
Furniture and Storage
Organization is important in the shop if you want to be able to find all the fabulous tools
you are accumulating. This is where you get to build-to-suit your own furniture and work
surfaces.

#18: The Saw Horse

Saw horses, of course, are natural in any woodworking shop or construction site. There
are actually patterns available that you can use to build your own stacking sawhorses. If
you build your sawhorses properly, they’ll hold up to 500 lbs. apiece. They’re even fairly
cheap to build. Your saw horses will serve countless uses around your shop, from
providing backup as you saw and drill, to extending your work surface while using
power saws.

#19: The Workbench

You’ll need a workbench, or work table, in your shop. Don’t try to be noble and make do
with the table for your table saw. It won’t be big enough or stable enough, and your saw
will get in the way. You can get patterns for workbenches too, just like with saw horses.
Your workbench can be portable, on retracting or locking casters, or it can be fixed. It
can be however you want it. There aren’t even any rules about measurements since
workbenches are usually based on the amount of room you may have.
If you have the room, a double-sided workbench is nice, where you can work on both
sides of the table from the center of the room, or have a partner working with you. If it’s
up against the wall, make sure that it doesn’t get so deep that you can’t reach stuff that
gets pushed toward the wall. Then it just ends up being a piled up mess, and you can’t
work on your work table. It’s up to you as to whether you have storage under your
workbench or not. Just remember that you’ve got to reach everything you store under
the bench.

#20: The Tool Storage System

Tool storage is totally up to your own personal style. Some people are just messy, and
leave things piled around. They simply remember that they left the moisture meter on
the router table. However, think about your organizational system. You may want to
build locking cabinets or open shelves. Many woodworkers display fasteners in Mason
jars that they twist into lids that have been nailed to an overhead board. Others have
spent too many hours picking fasteners out of the shattered remains of Mason jars and
don’t like that method.
If you use a peg board for hand tools over your workbench, remember to build the
workbench narrow enough for you to reach the pegboard. A rolling mechanic’s toolbox
may be the solution to your hand tool storage, and a tackle box for fasteners. Others
have hardware store-style bins for the many pieces that accompany woodworking.
However, you choose to organize your tools and accessories, remember that your time
on task is aided when you can find all of your tools. It’s also easier to take care of
expensive equipment when you have easy access to it. And keeping your fasteners
sorted and easily accessible may save you a trip to the hardware store.

#21: The Shop-Vac®

You may not think of a Shop-Vac as a woodworking tool, but just try to get any work
done with your saws kicking up powdery sawdust into your eyes. Now, you can go all
out, and get a built-in vacuum system installed. This is much like the home vacuums
that have outlets in every room of the house. You just take a hose with you from one
room to the other, plug it in, and the vacuum does its job, taking everything to the
central vacuum receptacle.
While this may be a dream scenario, the more realistic version is the portable shop vac.
You can use one of your handy clamps listed previously and clamp the hose to your
saw, vacuuming up the sawdust as it’s made. This keeps your cutting line clear and
unobstructed. If you choose a wet/dry vac, you’re getting even more for your money. Be
sure to get one with enough amps in the motor. Low amps in these small motors usually
mean low power, and you want it to work as hard as you do.

#22: The Bench Grinder

Get a good bench grinder. It doesn’t have to be in the way – you can make a stand for
it and keep it in the corner. But you’ll be amazed at how much you’ll use a bench
grinder. You’ve got to keep all of your chisels sharp and keep the burrs off of your
screwdrivers, too. A grinder doesn’t cost that much, and the time and expense it saves
you when you have dull tools will pay for itself in no time.

#23: The Circular Saw

A good circular saw is one of the most versatile tools you can own. Most people
consider the circular saw to be a carpentry tool but combined with proper clamping of
your materials, they are just as accurate as any table saw. Plus, you can use a circular
saw for tasks that you could never attempt with a table saw. It makes a lot more sense
to set up a couple of saw horses and get out the circular saw to cut a sheet of plywood
or MDF than to try to maneuver around in your shop to cut them on a table saw. A high-
quality circular saw should be the first power tool in your shop.
All of your saws will have options on how many teeth-per-inch, or TPI, you use. To
make your decision, you need to know what you are striving for with a cut. A saw blade
with a lot of teeth will make smoother cuts. However, you run the risk of burning your
wood. This is because a fine-toothed saw moves more slowly through the stock. It also
doesn’t clear the sawdust out of the cut as quickly, since the gaps between the teeth are
smaller. These gaps are called gullets, and on fine-toothed saws, numerous small
gullets hold more sawdust than the bigger gullets on a wide-toothed saw. The wide-
toothed saws will aggressively buzz through your stock with less burning, but the cut will
be rougher, probably requiring refinement with your orbital sander or jointer.
As a general rule of thumb, you should keep a selection of blades for your saws. Your
circular saw and table saw, as well, can make rough cuts with a 40-tooth saw blade.
Plywood and other laminated materials will work well with an 80-tooth saw blade.
If you know that the blades of your saws are right, but are still having trouble getting the
cut you want, the moisture content of your stock may be wrong. Wood that has a
moisture content level that is too high for your area will “feather” when it’s cut,
regardless of the size or sharpness of the blades. Wood that is too dry will crack and
split when you cut it. If it seems that no matter what you do to your saws, you still don’t
get satisfactory cuts, use your moisture meter to check the moisture content levels of
your stock.

#24: The Power Drill

The next power tool you should purchase is a power drill. Now, many people swear by
cordless drills, but they’re more expensive, and they can’t do everything that an electric
drill can do – that’s where the term “power” comes in. Power drills are not as expensive,
and they’re more powerful than cordless drills, which do have their place in your shop.
The steady power that comes with a corded drill makes it a better tool for extended use,
especially when using large bits such as paddle bits.
Most power drills are variable speed, with 2 speeds to choose from. When you select a
power drill, you’ll choose which sized wood chunk you want – 3/8” or ½”. This will
determine the size of bit you can use. If you anticipate the need for larger drill bits, such
as for lag bolts used in decking, you may want the ½” drill. They also have more power.
Typically, both chucks accommodate the smallest diameter whether you use a keyless
chuck or not. Some people swear by keyless chucks, others find that they occasionally
loosen. Others find that keyed chucks loosen.
#25: The Sabre Saw

Every woodworker should have a saber saw. Often called a jigsaw, it will allow you to
cut curves and patterns in your stock materials. You’ll probably need an electric one,
rather than a battery-operated, although the battery-powered saber saws work fine on
thin material and for limited use. You need to find one that fits your hand. Too small,
and you can’t grip it; too large, and you can’t control it. For thicker materials, you’ll need
a band saw, which we’ll cover later.

#26: The Palm Sander

A good palm sander is vital to any woodworker’s power tool collection. The palm sander
will use ¼ of a sheet of sanding paper and is small enough to get into tight places.
However, you should be careful not to sand patterns into your finished work with the
palm sander. They usually move in a circular pattern, or back and forth. Either way, they
can leave swirls and streaks in your wood that show up once it is stained, so be sure to
keep it moving across the surface you are sanding so that you don’t sand grooves into
your wood.
#27: The Random Orbital Sander

A random orbital sander is actually a step up from the “little brother” version – the palm
sander. The random orbital sander uses hook and loop (Velcro) to fasten the sanding
disks to the sanding pad. The random movement of the disk helps to avoid sanding
patterns into your wood. Your main precaution with this tool is to make sure that your
hardware supply store has discs in stock in every grit. Otherwise, you’ll have a sander
that you can’t use because you can’t find sanding pads for it.

#28: The Table Saw

Now, we start getting into the first permanent fixture in your woodworking shop –
the table saw. Of course, table saws can be loaded in the bed of your truck, so,
technically, they’re portable. But, the table saw is not one you can pick up with one hand
and head to the worksite. The table saw will be the workhorse of your shop, so get a
good one. You’ll use it to rip, miter, shape, square, groove, and join, so a good saw that
suits your needs is vital.
The work surface should be heavy duty to withstand the abuse it will take. Look for a
handle to raise and lower the saw blade easily. It should have another handle so that
you can adjust the angle of the blade. See if there are connections for a dust collector,
too, to make that aspect easier. You’ll want your table saw to have enough power to cut
through hardwood and make deep cuts. Again, look at amps and horsepower. The
motor should start with little to no vibration and run smoothly. Make sure it has a blade
guard and that the on/off switch is easy to reach. These days, the power switch is a
paddle that is easily pressed with your knee if you need an emergency off.
The blades for your table saw are in the same categories as the hand saws: rip and
crosscut. The rip blades have deep gullets. The crosscut blade has a kerf, or extra
cutting chisels, on every tooth, on alternating sides. This produces a very fine cut
surface. Rip blades are designed to cut with the grain of the wood, as you rip stock.
Crosscut blades can cut either with or against the grain. The most commonly purchased
blades are combination blades, ranging from 24 TPI to 80 TPI.
As pitch from the wood you cut accumulates on your saw blades, you’ll need to pause
and take the time to clean them off. The pitch will heat up as you use the blade, and
overheat the blade, damaging it. There are a number of commercial cleaners available,
but you can just soak them in oven cleaner. This will dissolve the pitch, with only a little
rubbing. Do not use any abrasives on your saw blades. Scrubbing cleansers and rough
pads will leave scratches on the blade, which will only hold more pitch, making the
problem worse the next time you need to clean the blade.
All saw blades dull over time, but your circular saw and table saw blades can be
resharpened if they are carbide. Since carbide blades are more expensive, this feature
makes the blade more cost-effective, since sharpening will prolong the life of the blade.
Your drill press will have a platform for the stock you are drilling, but your table saw will
have – well – a table. There are a few precautions you should take with each of the
tables you use for your saws and drills. These tables are usually made of cast iron. Cast
iron rusts easily. It will come with a special grease that protects the surface during
storage. You’ll need to clean the grease off of the surface and apply a protectant in its
place that won’t stain your stock or be a fire hazard. Possibly the best product for this is
simple car wax. Carnauba wax protects your car from harsh elements and will do the
same for your table. Just be very sure that you don’t use silicone wax because the
residue interferes with the finish on certain woods.

#29: The Rip Fence

Your table saw should have a rip fence. You’ll want one with a fine-tuning adjustment
that runs parallel to the blade. Some rip fences have an adjustment knob on each end
of the fence, others on just one end. The main thing to look for is torque. When you
move the fence, do both ends move evenly, or does the far end hand up? This can be a
real problem, and you’ll save yourself a lot of frustration and stock lumber if you have a
rip fence that stays parallel to the cutting blade.
#30: The Miter Gauge

Look for a T-groove miter gauge on your table saw. While

most saws have a built-in miter gauge, it may move out of the groove when you’re
making your cuts. The gauge needs to slide smoothly in its grooves without being loose.

#31: The Jig and Dado

Your table saw is much more versatile if you have the full range of dados and jigs to
use with it. Jigs were mentioned earlier in this list, and their use for tenons, tapering,
panel-cutting, and many other uses. A stacked dado is two blades with a set of wood
chippers in between. This is used for cutting grooves or removing large parts of stock.
The saw blades make the side of the groove straight while the chipper removes the
large part of the material between the saw blades. You can adjust the width of the
chippers to get bigger cuts. You can also use a wobble blade for this, but it – wobbles –
and vibrates your table saw, and won’t cut a flat edge.

#32: The Compound Miter Saw

You already have a tenon saw with a miter box, but if you’re going to get into the crown
molding and other such projects, you’ll need a compound miter saw. You may have
used your circular saw for those beveled cuts and miters. However, nothing beats the
precision of a good compound miter saw for those combination cuts.
A miter saw can be set to bevel up to 45 degrees and will cut at a 60-degree angle in
both directions. The miter gauge on your saw should be easy to read and clearly
marked. There should be hard stops at each major point, such as 0, 15, 22.5, 30, and
45. These degrees should be stopped on both sides. Not only that, but you should be
able to lock the saw at any angle you wish.
The bevel on the saw is the ability to tilt the saw to compound the cut – hence the
name. This gives you the ability to cut 2 angles with one cut. You’ll need the 10” saw
blade if you intend to cut 6” lumber. The 12” blade is nice, but few people really need
the extra size, although they appreciate it if they have it. 8” blades are just too small for
most woodworkers. You can find compound miter saws with a sliding arm function like a
radial arm saw, but they’re pretty pricey.

#33: The Router

Every woodworker should have a router. With the router, you can shape the edges of
your work. The variety of shapes is endless, with the various bits available. If you’re a
beginner, a stationary base router will do almost everything you need. This will start and
end the cut at the same depth that you set before you make the cut.
A plunge router allows you to plunge the bit into the wood, make your cut, then lift it
back out. You can use your stationary router in a router table, making long cuts with
ease using a fence. Some woodworkers even convert their table saw to accept a
stationary router so that they can use the rip fence and feather boards.
You should get a router with at least 2 HP, or it will be underpowered for hardwoods. It
needs variable speeds since large bits need to operate at slower speeds. If you don’t
have a variable speed router, you can burn your bits. You’ll also burn hardwoods if you
can’t slow down the router speed.
Consider the size of the collet, too. This is like the drill size – they’re available in ¼” and
½” size. You can put the smaller bits in the larger size, but not the other way around.
The larger bits are harder to find in the stores and are more expensive. They balance
out their cost and rarity, though, because they are more stable than the ¼” bits, and
won’t chatter as much during use.
You’ll need to decide between grips on the router. Some of them have pistol grips that
you hold with one hand, others have 2 handles on opposite sides. Think about the
weight of the router and the uses, and decide which is best for you. Either way, though,
the on/off switch should be within finger reach. You shouldn’t have to move one of your
hands to switch it on or off.
Some of the newer routers have sensors that evaluate the load. They adjust the RPMs
accordingly to keep them within a given range.

#34: The Band Saw

You just can’t beat a band saw for cutting precise shapes and curves. But, what a lot of
woodworkers don’t realize is that the band saw is a powerful ally when cutting rabbets
and tenons. You can also rip small pieces of wood and even make your own laminate
strips with a band saw. There are free-standing, or cabinet, band saws, and table mount
models that you can attach to a workbench or a dedicated stand. The free-standing
models are usually bigger, more sturdy saws that have more features. They also have
larger motors. These are the models used by professionals. However, you can still get
professional results from a mounted saw.
You’ll want to look for 2 things with your band saw: depth of cut and throat. The depth of
cut is the distance between the cutting plate and the upper guides on the blade. This will
determine the thickness of stock you can cut. There are some saws, however, that can
have risers attached to make it possible to cut thicker materials, so you can go from 6”
to 12” with the use of a riser.
The throat is the distance from the saw blade to the back frame of the saw. A cabinet
band saw will have a deeper throat, usually about 18”, while the bench models have 12”
to 14” throats. This will determine the width of stock that you can cut. When you see
information referring to a 12” band saw, it’s referring to the throat.
The size of the motor will matter. Most band saws made for home hobbyists will have up
to a 1 HP motor. More expensive ones will have variable speeds, but the woodworker
doesn’t usually use the different speeds. The slower speeds are intended for cutting
metal and plastic. They may come in handy if you’re planning on shaping exotic woods
such as acacia or bamboo. Just be sure to check the moisture content levels in these
woods before you make any fine applications, or they’ll change their size and mess up
your work.
The cutting surface, or table, should be made of steel alloy, aluminum alloy, or cast-iron.
It should also be adjustable up to 45 degrees so that you can make cuts at an angle.
The measurements of the cutting surface should be about 16” x 16”, with miter marks.
The saw blade of the band saw is actually a continuous band, like an alternator belt,
with teeth on one side. It rides on 2 wheels. The width of the band will determine the
radius of the curve you can cut. As a woodworker, you’ll want saw blades from 1/8” to 1”
in width, keeping in mind that with the wider blade, you can’t cut as wide on your curves.
The number of teeth per inch will matter here, too, with 1/2″, ¾”, and 1” blades at about
3 teeth per inch, and thinner blades with more teeth.
The wheels on which the saw band rides should have a brush on them to keep debris
from accumulating. These look like the bristles of a paintbrush being held in a clamp.
You’ll need to change out the brushes once or twice during the lifetime of your band
saw.
Between the band saw blade and the wheel is a tire. This looks like a big rubber band.
Most of them are made of either rubber or urethane. You have to glue the rubber ones
onto the wheel, while the urethane doesn’t have to be glued down. The urethane also
lasts longer, too. The tires you choose for your saw should be a little smaller than the
wheel – again, it’s like an alternator belt. You want it to be tight. If you have a band saw
that just doesn’t do the job anymore, consider your maintenance of the machine. It
could be that it just needs new tires and brushes. If the tires are dried out and cracked,
the saw blade will drift and chatter. If the tires and brushes have been worn out for a
long time, you may even need new wheels. But, once you replace all of these and
adjust the wheels, you should have a smooth-running cutting machine.

#35: The Radial Arm Saw

The radial arm saw is expensive, bulky, and heavy. And, it’s absolutely indispensable
to those who own one. If you choose to get one, just plan to have a permanent home for
it, because it’s probably not going to travel to worksites with you.
The radial arm saw is usually used to perform crosscuts. However, you can use it for
bevels and miters, dadoes, rabbets, moldings, and even as a router guide. It can
perform the same functions as a compound miter saw and a table saw. However, it’s a
little harder to use in these capacities. It’s kind of a tradeoff – you get a multi-purpose
saw for the more extravagant price, but it will be a little harder to use than saws made
specifically for those purposes.
With a radial arm saw, you’ll move the saw rather than the material. The depth of the
throat will make a difference with this saw. Your set-up will determine the success of
your work. Set up your fence carefully, and make sure your stock is snug up against it.
Then, turn the saw on, and let the blade get up to full speed before you start pulling it
toward you.
Now, with this saw, you’ll get a lurching, crawling effect that you may not be prepared
for. Experts say to install the saw on the work table with a very slight backward slant in
order to keep it from “walking” forward on your workbench. You’ll also need to be
prepared for the saw blade to “grab” the wood. This is one reason that set-up is so
important. With a fence securely in place, the wood has nowhere to go, and there’s less
opportunity for your hand to get yanked into the blade. The saw will try to determine the
speed it travels through the wood. You’ll have to keep a grip on it, and make it go at
your speed.
You can use your radial arm saw to cut dadoes and rabbets. Your dado blade installs
easily into the arm. Just be sure to remember the direction of cut, because it’s different
from your table saw. Also, always reinstall the blade guard when you change the blade
in any of your saws.
While this saw may be better at cutting complex compound angles, it can be trickier to
set up. Once you think you have it set up, make sure the clamping levers are locked into
place. You can set the radial arm saw to rip narrower stock. Just make sure that the
riving knife and pawls are in place should there be a jam or kick back.
Setting the depth of cut is important. With other types of saws, since the cut is to the top
or outside, this won’t matter. But the radial arm saw is being drawn across the stock,
cutting all the way through it into the surface below. So you’ll have to pay close attention
to the depth of cut so as to not sacrifice your work surface on a regular basis.

#36: The Drill Press

While most holes can be drilled with your power drill, there will be applications in your
woodworking where a drill press will be invaluable. The drill press provides you with
the ability to do precision drilling and deliver especially accurate large-diameter holes.
One of the best features of a drill press is the ability for you to set the depth of the hole.
This is especially useful when you have a number of holes you need to drill, all of the
same depth. The drill press also allows you to use Forstner bits, hole saws, and spade
bits, drilling wide diameter holes to depths that would be very difficult to drill by hand.
The features you should look for when you purchase your drill press will begin with a
bench mounted or free-standing model. For the record, the free-standing models usually
have larger motors, making them more powerful. This means your work will be
smoother. You can also work on larger stock pieces with the free-standing drill press.
Look for variable speeds, too. This will be accomplished by the ability to switch the belt
to a different pulley setup, changing the speed at which the chuck rotates. This is
important because hardwoods and softwoods must be drilled at different speeds
(softwoods require faster speeds than hardwoods, while hardwoods will burn at high
speeds). Finally, look for a feed that has several handles on it. You want the utmost
control when you plunge the drill bit, and having 2 or 3 grips on the lever will help that.
The plunge lever should be lockable so that you can set the depth of plunge, with an
automatic redraw.
The free-standing floor model may also come with another great feature – the ability to
swing the drill table out of the way. Some of them can also be tilted to a 45-degree
angle, too.
Look for a table that has slots that allow for the use of clamps, so that you can use jigs
and fences on the table. There will be slots on the table that allow for this.
To drill really large stock, look for a drill press that has a really deep throat. Just as with
the band saw, this is the distance between the working edge, in this case, the drill bit,
and the vertical support at the back of the press.
Your drill press can really help with joinery, as well as in drilling holes. With the proper
attachment, you can actually drill square holes. The chisels that cut the square part are
attached above the chuck, and the drill bit fits inside. This makes drilling mortise and
tenon joints easy.
Other uses and tips for your drill press:
 Use it for sanding. You can use a sanding drum in the chuck and adjust the table
height to sand curved cuts easily.
 Offset holes are easy to drill when you clamp the piece down.
 Small pieces can be clamped to the drill press table, preventing them from
moving around as you drill.
 Make a V jig to hold round items, such as chair legs, for drilling.
 Clamp stop blocks to the drilling table if you have to drill in the same place on
several pieces of wood.
#37: The Surface Planer

The surface planer is high-tech’s solution for the dedicated woodworkers through the
generations who have patiently and skillfully planed their stock by hand to get it the right
thickness. The time-saving surface planer makes your world much simpler. The planer
has a table onto which you feed your stock. This table is between 10” and 14”, so that’s
the maximum width of stock you can send through. A set of blades rotates, cutting the
wood as it is fed through.
You adjust the depth of cut with a crank, usually on one end of the planer. It actually
looks kind of like the wheel on a sewing machine. Most planers will plane your stock
down 6 inches, but you need to do this in small increments.
You achieve a smooth, evenly-planed surface, the intake rollers inside the planer will
pull the stock in and feed it under the knives, while outtake rollers pull it out the other
side. The stock will move slowly and steadily beneath the knives which are rotating at a
very high RPM. This yields a smooth finish to your stock. There should be pawls within
the planer, so that if the rollers lose their grip on the stock, it won’t kick back out of the
machine. You should also check to see if the surface planer you’re considering has a
dust vacuum because the amount of sawdust generated by these machines is epic.
You should always use hearing protection when you’re using a surface planer. These
will be the noisiest tools in your workshop and can cause damage. Safety glasses are
also suggested for all power equipment.
Tips for using the surface planer:
1. Hand-feed the stock until both sets of rollers have grabbed it.
2. For extremely long pieces of stock, use extension tables or feed rollers on each
end.
3. Keep the stock in line with the plane table to avoid gouges. If the stock enters at
an angle, it will be gouged.
4. Stand beside the stock you are feeding into the planer. If you stand behind it, and
there is kick-back that the pawls don’t catch, you will be injured.
5. NEVER use your hands to clear a jam. Use a spare piece of scrap lumber to
push out anything that gets stuck in the planer.
6. Don’t try to plane items that are too small for the planer. These are best hand-
sanded or clamped, with the block plane used, instead.
#38: The Jointer

The jointer is the most reliable and accurate way to ensure square edges. It also will
yield flat surfaces that won’t go through your surface planer. Rather than using a saw
blade, the jointer uses a cutter head that rotates at high RPM. It is positioned between
two tables. The infeed table is usually at a lower height, based on how much you want
to remove from your stock. The outfeed table is at the same height as the cutting edge,
supporting the board as it is cut. There should also be a fence to help provide accurate
cuts.
You’ll need a flat edge to do your woodworking, and the jointer can cut a flat edge and
smooth surface on your stock. For instance, if you have a 2×4 with a roughed up edge,
you can place it, rough side down, against the fence on the jointer. Using a push stick,
push the 2×4 across the jointer knives, and it will cut down the rough parts of the edge.
You may have to make several passes in order to get a completely smooth surface.
This will not only give you cleaner cuts, but it will save wear and tear on your motor and
knives. Remember, too, to always allow the blades to get up to full speed before you
begin cutting.
You’ll need to give slight downward pressure to the stock as it goes through the jointer.
Shift the pressure to the front of the stock as it exits the blades. Do not lift the stock until
it is completely free of the blades. Then, return to the starting point for your second
pass.
A jointer makes it possible to salvage bowed or warped stock that you previously may
have had to discard. With a bowed board, place in on the infeed table with the bow in
the center, facing up. This will keep it from rocking on the table. The two ends of the
piece will be joined first, which is OK. If you have to joint an edge that is rocking, keep
your pressure on the infeed table to reduce the rocking as much as possible.
To square edges, make sure that the fence is truly at a 90-degree angle to the tables.
Remember your layout square? You’ll use that for this task. Since you’re preparing a
squared edge, place most of your pressure on the fence, making sure the wood stays
straight up and down as the blades do their work. Numerous, small cuts are preferable
to one big one.
The fact that the fence can be angled gives you the chance to make mitered butt joints.
You can also make plunges on the jointer, giving your stock chamfered edges.
Non-Tool Tools
It may well be that the most valuable tools you own in your woodworking shop are not
tools at all.

#39: The Manual

Each of the tools you purchase for your shop will come with a manual. Just resign
yourself right now to reading instructions. Most tools returned to mail order companies
and home improvement stores as “defective” simply were not used according to
instructions. The hands-on nature of woodworking often means there is a large
population of craftsmen who don’t care to read instructions, but when you’re dealing
with, ultimately, thousands of dollars’ worth of equipment, all of which can eat your
hands, you’re much better off referring to the operator’s manual, rather than learning by
trial and error.
A single drawer file cabinet will hold all of your manuals and warranty information. Keep
a separate file for each tool – yes, even your screwdrivers – because many of those are
under warranty, too. For filing purposes, file either according to make, such as Black &
Decker, Ryobi, or by the type of tool, such as “router bits,” “router,” “router table,” etc.
You may be able to find magazine protectors at your local office supply store. While
they are harder to find, they will make it possible to keep your manual with your
equipment without the manual being damaged. Some truly dedicated woodworkers
even make their own notebooks out of the operator manuals. They take them apart,
putting each page in a page protector, reassembling them in a notebook binder. The
binder is then left on a shelf under the saw, if possible, or displayed on a shelf for easy
reference. You can imagine that the equipment of these woodworkers is also in pristine
condition. While you may not go to these lengths to keep your manuals handy, at least
read through them at least once, when you first get your equipment.
Each manual will have suggestions for not only safe operation but for special uses, as
well. Chances are if you’re having trouble with your machine, the problem is addressed
in the manual, and you can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by troubleshooting
with the operator’s manual.
#40: The Safety Equipment

The safety equipment you use may save irreplaceable parts of you. Fingers don’t grow
back, so use feather boards, push sticks, and always use tools according to directions.
You should always have the proper backup as you feed material through machines, and
keep the pressure applied to the correct parts of the stock, as in your instruction
manuals.
Your vision and hearing are equally irreplaceable, so always wear safety glasses. If you
wear prescription lenses, you order them with safety lenses, making it easy to protect
your eyes while you work. Ordinary glasses are not safety lenses and may shatter if a
projectile hits them, causing more damage.
Your hearing can be protected with earplugs purchased at the hardware store or the
local Wal-Mart. If you don’t find them in the sleep-aid section, check the hunting section.
You can find the kind that has a string connecting them so that you just pull them out of
your ears when you’re finished cutting, and they lie across your shoulders until you’re
ready for them again.
There you have it – 40 tools that every woodworker should think about owning. Ranging
in complexity from the humble claw hammer to the complex and potentially dangerous
jointer, these tools each have unique uses in the hands of skilled workmen. Proper care
of all tools will prolong their lives, and proper use of safety equipment will prolong the
quality of your own life. Accessible storage will make your shop not only a safer
environment, but it will save you a great deal of time in looking for pieces and parts that
you use on a regular basis.
Remember that, with numerous power tools, you’ll need dedicated outlets. While you
may not run more than one power tool at a time, it’s still better to try to arrange your
shop so that each tool has its own outlet, rather that stringing multi-outlet adapters
across the floor, with 5 and 6 powerful tools plugged into each one.
If you keep hand tools in tool drawers or on peg boards where they won’t roll around
and bump into each other, the edges and handles will last longer. Keep saw blades
oiled and stored flat, when possible, so that the teeth won’t be damaged.
Finally, make sure you have good lighting on all of your work surfaces. Overhead
lighting is vital to any workshop but can cast shadows on your work surface. Shadows
can not only interfere with accurate cutting but can be downright dangerous with the
optical illusions they can cause, leading you to get your hands too close to saw blades.
As you lay out your shop and plan outlets for your power tools, plan for an outlet for a
work light, too. You can get excellent work surface lights that will clip on, or mount to the
wall behind your equipment, or stand on the floor and adjust to shine on multiple
surfaces.
Industrial arts
is an educational program that features the fabrication of objects in wood or metal
using a variety of hand, power, or machine tools. Industrial Arts are commonly referred
to as Technology Education.

The purpose of the industrial arts activities

is to give the student a background of our industrial society. Career education plays an
equally important role in the educational process of the student. It involves the student
in everyday life decisions, and helps him to become a better informed citizen in his
community.

WOOD WORKING
the activity or skill of making things from wood
and includes cabinetry, furniture making, wood carving, joinery, carpentry, and
woodturning. Wooden house with wooden furniture, spinning wheel, loom and various
tools Artists can use woodworking to create delicate sculptures.
WOOD WORKS PROJECTS

13 Wood Projects You Can Sell Online

Many successful ecommerce success stories started with a hobby. One hobby you can
turn into an online business idea is woodworking. And you don’t need to be a skilled
artisan to turn some woodworking projects into products.

Many successful ecommerce success stories started with a hobby.

One hobby you can turn into an online business idea is woodworking. And you don’t
need to be a skilled artisan to turn some woodworking projects into products. There are
projects suitable for all skill levels—it’s just a matter of figuring out which project is right
for you.

Basic woodworking tools

Each of the following woodworking project ideas requires different materials, tools, and
expertise. That said, there are some basic woodworking tools you should have at your
disposal before diving in.
 Scrap wood, pine wood, or your wood of choice
 Wood planks
 Wood glue
 Handsaw for cutting
 A cutting board or mat
 A power drill
 A mallet or hammer
 Safety goggles and gloves if preferred
13 wood projects that sell in 2024
1. Wooden signs
2. Wood pallets
3. Wooden kitchen products
4. Furniture
5. Surfboards
6. Boxes
7. Picture frames
8. Children’s blocks
9. Birdhouses
10. Planters
11. Art wood projects
12. Wood turning
13. Wooden toys

1. Wooden signs
Wooden signs are an incredibly easy woodworking project to get started with. They
come in all shapes and sizes, and people use them in lots of different ways, indoors and
out.
You might see wooden signs in and around people’s homes as decoration—consider
offering personalized signs featuring a family’s last name, for example—and also at
events like weddings and parties as welcome and directional signage. There’s nothing
better than hanging a few high-quality wall signs in your home.

Offer personalized wooden signs or generic ones people can buy on the spot.
You can create wooden signs in a number of ways. Maybe you hand paint designs onto
wood pieces or you cut out letters and shapes from pieces of wood themselves.
Wooden signs can be made with simple scrap wood and customized to fit the needs of
your target audience.
2. Wood pallets
Shippers and ecommerce companies use wood pallets to move large amounts of
product. The problem is, these pallets are wasteful—but they’re ideal material for a
variety of woodworking projects you can turn into cash flow.
The following all make great pallet projects:
 Planter box
 Decorative sign
 Coffee tables
 A wooden bench
 Chair or small bench
 Wooden business card holders
 Mail sorter/key holder
 Wooden serving trays
 Raised garden beds
 Bed platform
 Shelves

3. Wooden kitchen products

Kitchen products have proven time and time again to be among the top projects that sell
consistently. Keep it simple with a wooden cutting board and wooden coasters or go for
something more specialized, like detailed wooden utensils. You could even create a
wooden serving tray or a wine rack.
Old World Kitchen is a fantastic example of a skilled woodworker that built a business
around these projects. The merchant started selling wares on Etsy and eventually
moved over to Shopify to scale the business.

Old World Kitchen sells wood items like spoons, spatulas, and measuring cups.

4. Furniture
There’s a lot of opportunity for selling furniture online. As consumers have fewer in-
person options, they’ll have to turn to online shopping to fulfill their needs.
Environmentally conscious brand Fyrn sells beautifully crafted wooden furniture on its
website, including its staple collection of chairs.
5. Surfboards
Contrary to what you might think, surfing is a year-round sport, so there’s a pretty
consistent demand. However, many surfboards are made of foam, fiber, plastic, and
other materials that aren’t exactly environmentally friendly.
Using wood is one way to make surfboard manufacturing a bit more sustainable—at
least that’s what David Dennis of Ventana Surfboards and Supplies has figured out.
Plus, it’s a lot more affordable, leaving room for lower prices and/or greater profit
margins.
6. Boxes
Another flexible idea, wooden boxes make great woodworking projects that sell. And it’s
a suitable idea for skilled artisans and newbies alike. You can go straightforward with
basic crates and storage boxes or get creative with decorative shelving and jewelry
boxes. With a little bit of wood glue, you can really create some incredibly creative
boxes that your customers will love.
7. Picture frames
Wood picture frames coupled with wall art can be a great combination to sell. Picture
frames are relatively easy to make, and you can do all different sizes and styles. You
can even repurpose old or scrap wood. Barnwood USA, for example, uses repurposed
barn wood to make its wood products.
8. Children’s blocks
Children’s wooden blocks are great because you can use wood scraps to create blocks
of different shapes and sizes. You can also paint them different colors or add burnt iron
designs. PoppyBabyCo, for example, sells wooden blocks for children. You can get
creative with your own collections.
9. Birdhouses
Birdhouses are a lovely indoor or outdoor decoration—and they’re a common item for
people to collect, so it’s an excellent niche to get into. Again, you can create a simple
bird house using just scrap wood or invest in higher quality material.
Many Shopify merchants sell wooden birdhouses online. Stone Bridge Collections, for
example, has an entire category dedicated to its wooden birdhouses. Stone Bridge’s
birdhouses are species-specific—it also has a bat house for sale.
10. Planters
Wood is a great material for making planters and pots for all kinds of plants—everything
from planter boxes for small home vegetable gardens to tiny succulent holders to be
used as desk accessories. Woodchuck USA sells desktop planters and also promises to
plant a tree for every product sold.
You can also create complementary items for the home gardener. To accompany an
outdoor planter box, consider items like potting tables and benches, like this one from
Lee Display:
Lee Display sells many wood home and garden items.
11. Art wood projects
Selling art online is a great way to turn your creative projects into income. Wood is an
excellent material to craft with, and you can make a variety of items. It really depends
on your creativity and skill set—and what customers are willing to buy. Feel free to
experiment with your creations.
You might also choose to pursue a specific niche. Track Sculptures is a perfect example
of this. The Shopify merchant makes wooden sculptures of the maps of racetracks all
over the world—a unique and special item for racing fans in particular.
12. Wood turning
Wood turning is a more advanced woodworking skill set. It involves putting a piece of
wood on a rotating axle and then using handheld tools, like a lathe, to carve a shape in
the wood, which is symmetrical all around the axis. If you’ve mastered it, you have a lot
more opportunities to specialize in items like stair posts, newels, spindles, and similar
items.
13. Wooden toys
Wooden toys are a profitable woodworking project. Plastics and other harmful materials
are on the minds of parents everywhere—you can position your wood alternatives as
safe and non-toxic. Happy Little Folks creates handcrafted wooden toys that are earth-
friendly.

Wooden toys can be enjoyed by people of all ages, from wooden chess sets, to wooden
puzzles. So keep your options open when thinking of your next woodworking project.
How to sell woodworking projects

Creating your woodworking projects is only half the battle. Once your projects are ready
for new homes, it’s up to you to find them. It will likely take some trial and error to
discover which woodworking project will sell, but here are a few tips to help improve
your chances of success.