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The Project Gutenberg eBook of 14000 miles, a
carriage and two women
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Title: 14000 miles, a carriage and two women

Author: Frances S. Howe

Release date: August 31, 2023 [eBook #71527]

Language: English

Original publication: United States: Sentinel Printing Co, 1906

Credits: Fiona Holmes and the Online Distributed Proofreading

Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced
from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive/American Libraries.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14000

MILES, A CARRIAGE AND TWO WOMEN ***
 Transcriber's Note
Page 74—enthusiatically changed to enthusiastically
Page 127—lettter changed to letter
Page 215—Pemigewassett changed to Pemigewasset
Page 263—hime changed to home
Page 271—spic changed to spick

Ready for a Seven Hundred Miles Drive.

See page 265.
 14000 MILES
A CARRIAGE AND TWO
WOMEN
BY FRANCES S. HOWE
“AWAY, AWAY FROM MEN AND TOWNS
TO THE WILDWOOD AND THE DOWNS.”
—Shelley
PRIVATELY PRINTED 1906
Copyright, 1906, by
Frances S. Howe.

sentinel printing co.

fitchburg.
 FOREWORD.
Many of these informal reports of more than 14,000 miles’ driving
were written for the Boston Evening Transcript some years ago, and
the later letters for the Leominster Daily Enterprise. They cover an
unbroken series of summer and autumn journeys, which have never
lost any of the freshness and charm of that first little trip of two
hundred miles along the Connecticut. A drive across the continent,
or even on the other side of the water would seem less of an event
to us now than that first carriage journey. This volume is a response
to “You ought to make a book,” from many who have been interested
in our rare experience.
F.C.A.
F.S.H.
Leominster, Mass.
 CONTENTS.
I. Summer Travels in a Phaeton, 1
II. Chronicle of the Tenth Annual Drive, 16
III. Old Orchard and Boston, 32
IV. Moosilauke and Franconia Notch, 48
V. Connecticut, with side trip to New Jersey, 73
VI. Dixville Notch and Old Orchard, 91
VII. Catskills, Lake George and Green Mountains, 109
VIII. Narragansett Pier and Manomet Point, 127
IX. White Mountains and Vermont,
(A Six Hundred Miles Drive.) 137
X. By Phaeton to Canada,
(Notes of a Seven Hundred Miles Trip.) 153
XI. Outings in Massachusetts, 173
XII. Bar Harbor and Boston, 190
XIII. Dixville Notch and the North Shore, 211
XIV. The Kennebec Journey, 228
XV. On Highways and Byways, (1894 TO 1904.) 241
XVI. Lake Memphremagog, 252
POSTSCRIPT. Buggy Jottings of Seven Hundred
Miles Driving, Circuit of the New England States. 265
14000 MILES
 CHAPTER I.
SUMMER TRAVELS IN A PHAETON.
“We were a jolly pair, we two, and ladies at that; and we had decided
to go, amid the protestations of the towns-people and the remarks of
Madam Grundy that it was not proper, and that there were so many
tramps it was not prudent for two ladies to take a trip with their horse
and carriage along the North Shore. Nevertheless, we take our lives
in our hands, and ‘do the trip’ in a large comfortable, roomy buggy,”
etc.
A letter in the Boston Evening Transcript, under the heading “Along
the North Shore,” from which the paragraph above is taken, so aptly
describes a part of one of our journeys, that we cannot resist the
temptation to tell you something of our travels, which our friends no
longer consider daring and experimental, but a thoroughly sensible
and delightful way of combining rest and pleasure.
In the summer of 1872, “we two, and ladies at that,” made our trial
trip, with the consent and approval of family friends for our
encouragement, and the misgivings and fears of those outside to
inspire us with caution. Tramps were not in fashion, and I have
forgotten what was the terror of those days. Like the “other two,” we
were equipped with a pet horse—safe, but with no lack of spirit—a
roomy phaeton, with lunch basket, wraps, books, fancy work and
writing materials all at hand. Our bags, with rubber coverings, were
strapped underneath the carriage. Some cautious reader may like to
know that we did not forget to put in the “box” a wrench, a bottle of
oil, strong cord, etc., for emergencies. Of course we had a map, for
geography was not taught very practically in our school days, and we
should be lost without one. We made no definite plans beyond the
first day, but had vaguely in mind, if all went well, to drive through the
valley of the Connecticut River.
Our first day’s ride took us around Wachusett. We did not delay to
climb its woody slopes, for we had many times visited our little
mountain, and knew its charms by heart. It was new scenes we were
seeking, and we were eagerly anticipating the drive along the
Connecticut, fancying that much more beautiful and romantic than
the familiar hills. It was not until we reached the hot, sandy roads,
and were surrounded by tobacco fields, with rarely a glimpse of the
river, that we realized that valleys are most enjoyable when seen
from the hill-tops. The peculiar charm of the view from Mt. Holyoke
we can never forget. A picture like that of the Northampton
meadows, with the silvery river winding through them, we have found
on no other hill or mountain-top.
If this trial journey had proved our last, we would like to recall it in
detail; but, as it has been succeeded by others more extended, we
must hastily pass by the novelty of our first crossing the Connecticut
by ferry, the historic points of interest in old Deerfield, the terrific
thunderstorm just after we left Greenfield, the Broad Brook drive as
we neared Brattleboro, the profuse quantity of lovely maidenhair
ferns by the roadside, dripping with the morning rain, our lunch on
the shore of Lake Spofford, and so on to Keene and Jaffrey.
How can we so hastily pass over the ascent of grand old
Monadnock? Perhaps we enjoyed it all the more for the repeated
protests of the youthful proprietor of the Mountain House, who
assured us the feat was impossible, as the heavy showers which we
had so much enjoyed in our morning drive had converted the path
into a series of cascades. The mists which had entirely concealed
the mountain were just breaking away, and we made the ascent in
the face of warnings and water, yielding to no obstacles. Before we
left the summit it was mostly clear, and we thought little of our moist
condition or the difficulties of the descent before us as we feasted
our eyes, watching the showers as they moved on from village to
village in the valley below, leaving a burst of sunlight in their wake.
Our descent was rapid, notwithstanding difficulties, and when we
reached the hotel, so delightfully located on the side of the mountain,
we forthwith decided to prolong our stay. After a cosy supper, for we
were the only guests, we repaired to the rocks to watch the sunset
clouds, which are rarely finer. It was mild, and we lingered while the
darkness gathered, until the mountain looked so black and lonely we
did not like to think we had stood on that peak alone only a few
hours before. While we watched, the clouds began to brighten, and
soon the moon appeared in her full glory, making the whole scene
one of indescribable beauty. The next day was Sunday, and a
lovelier day never dawned. The peculiar Sunday quiet pervaded the
very atmosphere, and we sat on the rocks reading, writing and
musing all day, enjoying such a season of rest as one seldom
experiences.
Two days more passed, and we were safe at home, after an
absence of only ten days, and about two hundred miles’ driving, but
with delightful recollections, which cannot be forgotten in a lifetime.
This trial trip was so successful that when another summer came it
was taken for granted by our friends that we should try again, and
we started, equipped as before with map, but no plan—only an
inclination to face north. Following this inclination took us through
many thrifty towns and villages, and gave us delightful drives over
hills and through valleys, until we found ourselves spending a night
with the Shakers on the top of a high hill in Canterbury, N. H. The
brothers and sisters were unsparing in their attentions, though strict
in certain requirements. We left them next morning, with a generous
Shaker lunch in our basket, and turned our horse toward Alton Bay.
As Brother George and Sister Philena assured us, it was the longest,
roughest and loneliest ten miles’ drive we had ever taken. The round
trip on Lake Winnipiseogee the following day was a delightful
contrast.
We now began to study our map, for we had not even a vague idea
where next. We started at last, not anxious, but aimless; and after
wandering several days in obedience to the will of the hour, landed
on Wells Beach; we passed Sunday on York Beach; then drove on to
Portsmouth, where we left our horse for a day to visit the Isles of
Shoals. The places of resort and interest as we followed the coast to
Gloucester, Rye, Hampton, Salisbury, etc., are well known. After
refreshing ourselves at Gloucester with rowing and moonlight
bathing we returned to Newburyport, where we saw the homes of
Lord Timothy Dexter, Harriet Prescott Spofford, and others of note.
An excursion on the Merrimac in a barge, and the drive by the river
road to Bradford and Haverhill, we found very pleasant. It was in this
vicinity that, for the first time, we were received ungraciously. The
good landlady of an old-fashioned inn reluctantly received us, after
rebuking us for the abuse of our horse, little knowing how much
more thoughtful we were of him than of ourselves. He looked tired
that night, for the seashore had not agreed with him, and I think had
her knowledge extended so far, she would have reported us to the S.
F. T. P. O. C. T. A. However, after cross-examination, she conducted
us to a room spotlessly clean, the floor covered with the choicest of
braided mats, and two beds mountain high, but expressly enjoined
us “not to tumble but one of them.” We left the next morning laden
with good advice, which, carefully followed, returned us safely home
ere many days, with our horse in better condition than when we
started on our journey.
Of course we were ready to go again the next year, this time starting
southerly, spending nights in Northboro, Franklin, Taunton and
Tiverton Stone Bridge. Thus far the scenery and roads do not
compare favorably with those in New Hampshire; but when we
reached Newport, we were compensated for lack of interesting
driving.
Margery Deane tells your readers all one needs to know of this place
of places. So we will find our way to New Bedford, leave our horse
and take a look at Martha’s Vineyard for a few days. Our first
impression of the “Cottage City” was that of a miniature Newport; but
this every one knows all about, so we will go on to Plymouth, where
we saw everything worth seeing. Plymouth Rock would have
satisfied us more fully had it looked as it does in the pictures of the
“Landing,” instead of being out in the midst of dry land, with a
pagoda built over it, and inscriptions to remind one that it is not an
ordinary flagstone.
We found much that interested us in Marshfield, Hingham, and
Milton with its Blue Hills. We have not forgotten a night at the
homelike Norfolk House, and an afternoon devoted to the famed
residences in Watertown. We drove to Point Shirley one morning
during our stay near Boston, and on returning gave our journey
another historic touch by going to the top of Bunker Hill Monument;
and still another a few days later, as we visited the old battle-grounds
in Lexington and Concord, on our way home.
Before another summer, whispers of tramps were heard, and soon
they were fully inaugurated, making us tremble and sigh as we
thought of the opposition that threatened us. A revolver was
suggested, in case we persisted in facing this danger, and finally as
go we must, we condensed our baggage that it might be out of sight,
and confidently took the reins, having no fear of anything ahead, so
long as our greatest terror—a loaded revolver—was close at hand,
not “hidden away in one corner under the seat,” but in a little pocket
made on purpose, where it could be seized without delay when our
game appeared. As we shall not refer to our “companion” again,
never having had occasion to use it, we will say here that it is no
longer a terror but a sort of chaperone, in whose care we rest
secure.
Our driving this season was within the limits of our own State, and
we have yet to find anything more truly beautiful than western
Massachusetts, with its Berkshire hills and grand old towns,
Stockbridge, Lee and Lenox. Our map was on a small scale, and the
distance from Pittsfield to the Hudson River looked very short, so we
ordered good care for our horse, and took the six o’clock train one
morning for Hudson, where we met the boat for New York. The day
was perfect, and our enjoyment complete. We reached the city at
dusk, and next thought to surprise a friend, twenty miles out, in New
Jersey, where we received a joyous welcome. The next day we
devoted to New York, returning by night boat to Hudson, and before
nine o’clock the following morning, after forty miles by rail again, we
resumed our driving from Pittsfield, delighted with our side trip of
nearly four hundred miles, but oh! so glad to be in our cosy phaeton
once more. The homeward route was full of interesting details, which
we must leave.
Centennial year came next, and we made our shortest trip, driving
only one hundred and fifty miles in New Hampshire in early autumn.
The tramp terror increased at home and abroad, and when summer
came again our “guardians” looked so anxious, we said nothing, and
went camping instead of driving. A party of twelve, on the shores of
Lake Wachusett, with royal accommodations in the number and size
of tents and hammocks and three boats at a private landing, diverted
us at the time. But, as the season waned, we pined, and before
October was gone we were permitted to revolve around the “Hub” for
two weeks, supposed to be quite safe, while so near the centre of
civilization. It was like a June day when we sat on the rocks at
Nahant, and like November when dreariest, as we drove around
Marblehead Neck, and watched the ocean so dark and angry; while
the chill winds pierced our thickest wraps only a few days later. We
shall not soon forget our drive from Cambridge to Hingham in the
severest northeast storm of the season, or our delight on the rocks at
Nantasket, after this three-days’ storm cleared, and we felt the
dashing spray. Our “Hub” journey was none the less interesting for
being familiar, and we did not omit the attractions of Wellesley on our
way home.
Early in the following July, the New Hampshire tramp law having
come to our rescue, we once more turned our faces toward the ever
beautiful Lake Winnipiseogee. We renewed our acquaintance with
the Canterbury Shakers, and as we always avail ourselves of
whatever is new or interesting in our path, stopped over for a day at
Weirs Landing to witness the inauguration of the Unitarian grove
meetings. After the opening of this feast of reason we were of one
mind, and without delay provided good board and care for our horse
for a week, and settled down to three and four services a day. After
the accomplishment of this feat we visited points of interest about
Centre Harbor. In accordance with our usual good fortune we had a
perfectly clear day on Red Hill, and appreciated all Starr King has
written of its charms. The day spent at Ossipee Falls and Cascades
gave us unbounded pleasure. We reveled in the rough walking and
climbing, and after exploring above and below the falls, we were all
ready to enjoy the lunch our hostess had prepared for our party,
which we spread on a huge rock in the narrow gap. Our horse rested
while we climbed, and the ten miles return drive to Centre Harbor
required our utmost skill. On the following day we drove to Concord,
N. H., a distance of forty miles. After spending a few days with
friends in this charming place, we drove on, passing a night at the
Mountain House, Monadnock, to refresh the memories of our first
visit there, and breathing the pure air of Petersham, Barre and
Princeton as we journeyed towards our own beautiful Leominster.
After these seven years’ wanderings, we were considered virtually
members of the great “Order of Tramps,” and from that time to the
present we have had full and free consent “to go to our own
company”; and when we boldly proposed crossing the Green
Mountains to pay a visit to friends near Lake Champlain, all agreed it
would be a delightful thing for us to do. We closely followed the
familiar railroad route through Keene, Bellows Falls and Rutland; it
was a glorious drive all the way. At one time we seemed buried in
the mountains without any way of escape, but we had only to follow
our winding road, which after many twistings and turnings brought us
to Ludlow. The next night we were safely over the mountains, and
soon were with our friends.
Our week in the cosy town of Benson, surrounded by high hills, must
be left to your imagination. We will only tell you of a visit to Lake
George. A party of fifty, we started at six o’clock one morning, in all
sorts of vehicles. Four miles’ jolting up and down steep hills took us
to Benson Landing, Lake Champlain, and in course of time (a dozen
people in a heavy two-horse wagon, and two other vehicles on a
scow, towed by two men in a row-boat, is by no means rapid transit,)
the several detachments of our party were safely landed on the
opposite side. And then, what a ride! We never dreamed that the
narrow strip of land between Lake Champlain and Lake George, only
four miles across, could give us so much pleasure. At first we held
our breath, but soon learned that the driver and horses were quite at
home, and gave our fears to the winds as they galloped up hills
almost perpendicular only to trot down again to the sound of the
grating brakes, the wheels going over great rocks on one side one
minute and down in a deep rut on the other side the next. We many
times congratulated ourselves that we joined the party in the big
wagon, instead of driving our good Charlie, as first planned. The
steepest pitch of all brought us at last to the shore of the beautiful
Lake George, at a point about ten miles south of Ticonderoga, where
the boat was to meet us by special arrangement.
Only those who have experienced it can realize what we enjoyed on
that bright day, as we glided over the mirror-like waters, enraptured
with the loveliness surrounding us.
After a few hours’ rest at Fort William Henry, we were ready for the
return sail. As we landed, our driver stood by his horses, eager for a
start; a few of us expressed our willingness to walk for a while,
possibly remembering the last fearful pitches in that rough road, as
well as the beautiful cardinal flowers and ferns we desired to gather.
After a walk and run of nearly two miles, the driver summoned us to
the wagon, just before we reached the pitch we most dreaded and
were hastening to avoid. We obeyed, and now galloped on until we
reached Lake Champlain again, and took breath while we slowly
ferried across in the gathering twilight. Our remaining four miles was
a glorious moonlight drive. As we entered the village it seemed
impossible that we had been away only since morning, for we had
seen and enjoyed so much.
The next day we turned our thoughts homeward. Not wishing to
return by the same route, we ventured into New York State, and after
two or three days reached Saratoga Springs. All frequenters of this
resort can easily imagine our routine there—the drive to the lake at
the approved time, etc. The roving spirit so possessed us that we left
the scene of gayety without regret, and on we went over the hills to
take a look at Bennington on our way to North Adams. We drove
over Hoosac Mountain, but have yet to see its charms; the mist
concealed everything but our horse. We waited two hours at a
farmhouse near the summit for fair weather, but in vain. As we
started in despair the clouds parted for an instant, giving us glimpses
into the valley, then united and came down upon us in a deluging
rain. Our dripping horse carefully picked his way down the steep
mountain, and when we reached the level road the water was nearly
a foot in depth for some distance. We splashed along quite happy,
for this was not half so aggravating as the fitful mist of the morning,
which every moment promised to clear away. The rest of our journey
was pleasant, but uneventful.
As we reviewed the drive of four hundred miles, we felt we must
have reached the climax within our limits. But no! we added another
hundred miles, and extended our time to nearly a month on our next
trip.
Lacking definite plans as usual, we drove to Lake Winnipiseogee
once more, thinking another session of the Grove meeting at Weirs
would be a good beginning. When the glorious week ended, there
was seemingly an adjournment to the White Mountains, and as we
had faithfully attended these meetings from the first, it was clearly
our duty to follow; so on we drove, resting our horse at Plymouth,
spending the night at Campton Village, and next day visiting in turn
the attractions of the Pemigewasset Valley, the Flume, Pool, Basin,
Profile and Echo Lake. Passing on through the beautiful Notch, night
overtook us at Franconia. On our way to Bethlehem, the following
morning, we left our horse for an hour and walked up Mt. Agassiz,
which well repaid the effort. With the aid of a glass we traced the
drive before us, through Bethlehem’s one long street, past the Twin
Mountain House and along the Cherry Mountain road, turning until it
nearly described a half-circle, and finally reaching Jefferson.
We realized far more than Mt. Agassiz promised. We were leaving
the beauties of the Franconia Mountains and nearing the grandeur of
the White Mountain range, and in many respects it was the most
impressive drive of our journey. The last four miles from Jefferson to
the Highlands, just at sunset facing Mts. Washington, Jefferson,
Adams and Madison, was beyond description. Here we spent
several days; for three reasons: We had surely found the
headquarters of the “adjournment,” for we met many Weirs friends;
then, too, we were floating about on the northerly margin of our map,
and could go no farther in that direction, and lastly, we were waiting
for a favorable day for Mt. Washington.
One of these waiting days we spent on Mt. Adams; two of us, out of
our party of seven, registering our names in the “little tin box” at the
summit.
It was an exhausting climb of four miles, up the roughest and most
beautiful path imaginable, marked out by the Appalachian Club. We
encountered four hailstorms, and suffered extremely from cold on
that August day, but the five minutes’ perfectly clear view more than