Cosmo Tics

1
HLT PHS4 06 1121

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care
For Level IV Pharmacy students
By: Berhanu T.(B.pharm,MSc. Clinical Pharmacy)
Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

2
 Sources of information
 Books, reliable websites on drug information (ipa,
medscape, Imbase, Idis, Cochrane database of systematic
reviews Conchare library)
 Manufacturer's representatives
 Supplier's product leaflets/manuals
 Internet
 Fashion magazines
 Customer feedback

3
 Product information May

 Brand options
 Application procedures/techniques
 Benefits and effects of various products
 Customer personal requirements
 Guarantees
 Price
 Ingredients

Introduction
4
 Cosmetic is derived from the Greek word kosmtikos meaning

having the power or skill to decorate
 Cosmetology is the science of beautifying the skin and its

appendages
 The scientific knowledge of cosmetology enables to give

rational treatments and aesthetically acceptable results and
prevent patient’s indulgence in unscientific methods

Introduction cont…
5
 Cosmetics: are substances used to enhance or protect the

appearance or odor of the human body
 They are preparation that intended to be rubbed, poured,

sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or applied to the
human body or any part for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance
 Their use is widespread, especially among women

6
In another word cosmetics are:

 Product that helps improves external appearance and has the
ability to hide, or at least distract from unwanted stigmata or
skin defects
 Laws and rules covering the distinction between cosmetics and
drugs differ from country to country

7
 Soap is specifically excluded from cosmetics in the FDCA

(Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act) and no cosmetic or drug
regulations are applicable to soap
 The devices used in applying the cosmetics as brush, comb,
razor blades they are not included in cosmetics

Cosmetics include
8
 Hair sprays and gels

 Skin-care creams
 Deodorants
 Lotions, powders
 Baby products, bath oils
 Perfumes
 Bubble baths
 Lipsticks
 Butters and many other types of
 Fingernail and toenail polishes
products
 Eye and facial makeup
 hair colors

9
Therapeutic cosmetology
 Involves passage of active ingredients across the skin thereby
altering the physiology of the area

10
 The common cosmetic problems include:

 Acne (pimples)
 Diffuse hair loss
 Excessive growth of hair
 Scars
 Premature aging of skin

 Excessive dryness of skin
 Premature graying of hair
 Pregnancy induced pigmentation on face etc.

Role of the Pharmacy professional
11
 The pharmacy technician provides product information

about:
 Ingredients of the products
 The available brand options
 Application procedures/techniques of specific products
 Benefits and effects of various products
 Price of the products

12
 Therefore, the expected function of pharmacy technicians is:

Provide information on cosmetics
Delivering product knowledge developed and maintained

by accessing relevant sources of information
Storing product accurately according to product

information and informing the consumers too

13
Transmitting product information to other staff members

as required
Helping customer choose the best product suit to him/her
Comparing between products and services researched and

accurately applied according to product information

Formulation and common ingredients of cosmetics
14
 Cosmetics products are dissolved into or mixed with different

kinds of chemical additives
 The excipients may be used to bulk up cosmetic formulations

with very potent target substances, to allow for convenient and
accurate dosage
 They are only used when absolutely necessary and in the

smallest amounts possible

15
 The duration of cosmetic products is affected by denature of

active ingredients, fall out of solution or stick to the sides of the
container; So that the product may not stay for long
 For these reasons, the product will be prepared with certain
excipients that are important to keep the stability of the cosmetic
products
 This ensures that the target ingredient stays "active", and, just
as importantly, stable for a sufficiently long period of time

16
 All ingredients in cosmetics are to be identified and

guaranteed to be safe
The cosmetic product formula consists of :
 Fillers/Diluents/vehicle: fill out the amount of the product,
making it practical to produce and convenient for the consumer

to use
 Color additives: added to improve appearance of a formulation
 Lubricants: added to prevent ingredients from clumping
together and from sticking the processing machines

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 An antioxidant: preventing the oxidation of other additives

 Fragrances: Give the product a fresh, pleasing odor and
cover up the smell of other ingredients
 Preservatives: added to keep any product that includes water
and oil from decay
 Humectants: a substance that absorbs water from the air and
hold the moisture in the skin or helps retain the moisture

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 Humectants must have appropriate water absorption ability,

maintain moisture in the skin, have lowest possible volatility,
be safe, be colorless, odorless and tasteless, and have densities
matching the system they are used in. E.g. Glycerine,
Propylene glycol, Sorbitol, Sodium lactate
 Emollients: added to sooth and lubricate rough skin by fill in
the spaces between the cells in the skin

Classification of cosmetics
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 They can be classified

based on widely used body  Nail cosmetics
parts as:  Skin cosmetics
 Hair cosmetics  Oral cosmetics
 Face cosmetics
 Eye make ups
 Lip decorators and carers

1. Hair cosmetics
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 Shampoo
 Conditioner
 Hair tonic
 Hair coloring dyes
 Hair growth promoter
 Hair removers

Shampoo
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 a preparation of a surfactant(i.e. surface active material)in suitable

form–liquid, solid or powder
 remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair and scalp
 Requirements of Shampoo:
 It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive
sebum or other fatty substances and loose corneal cells from the hair
 Produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychologically
 easily removed on rinsing with water
 Leave the hair non‐dry and soft
 impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair
 not cause any side‐effects/irritation to skin or eye
 not make the hand rough and chapped
Shampoo cont…
22
 Shampoos are of the following types:

 Powder Shampoo
 Liquid Shampoo
 Lotion Shampoo
 Cream Shampoo
 Jelly Shampoo
 Aerosol Shampoo
 Specialized Shampoo Conditioning Shampoo
 Anti‐dandruff Shampoo
 Baby Shampoo

Shampoo cont…
23
 The raw materials used in the manufacture of shampoos are:
 Principal surfactants: Provide detergency and foam
 Secondary surfactants: Improve detergency, foam and hair

condition
 A surfactant consists of two part‐one hydrophilic (water

loving) while the other is hydrophobic in nature

Shampoo cont…
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 Anionic surfactants are mostly used(good foaming properties)

 The hydrophilic portion carries negative charge which results
in superior foaming, cleaning and end result attributes
 Non‐ionic surfactants have good cleansing properties but do
not have sufficient foaming power
 Cationic surfactants are toxic and are hence not used
 However, they may be used in low concentration in hair
conditioners
Shampoo cont…Additives
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 Conditioning agents: Lanolin, mineral oil, herbal extracts, egg

 Foam builders:Lauroyl monoethanolamide,sarcosinates
 Viscosity modifiers : Electrolytes –NH4Cl, NaCl
 Natural gums –Gum Karaya, tragacanth, alginates
 Cellulose derivatives –Hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl

cellulose
 Carboxyvinyl polymers –Carbopol
 Sequestering agents : EDTA

 Opacifying agents: Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids,
propylene glycol, Mg, Ca and Zn salts of stearicacid
 Clarifying agents: Solubilizingalcohols –ethanol, isopropanol

Shampoo cont…Additives
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 Perfumes: Herbal, fruity or floral fragrances

 Preservatives: Methyl and propylparabenzene, formaldehyde
 Anti‐dandruff agents: The shampoos contain small amount of
these actives, which are in contact with the scalp for only a
short time
 In order to be effective the active ingredient must work in the
oil‐water environment of the scalp and must be readily
substantive to the scalp for continuing activity
 Ex: Selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithone, salicylic acid

Hair sprays
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 Hairsprays belong to a class of personal care products that help

hair to hold a desired style
 These products contain film forming ingredients that are
applied as a fine mist
 The key property that makes polymers useful as hair holding
agents is their ability to form films upon drying
 Once hair spray is applied to the hair, the liquid drops run
down the hair shaft until they reach the intersection of two hair
fibers

Hair sprays……Cont’d
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 When the drops dry at this fiber intersection, they create an

invisible film that bonds hairs together
 When dry, these chemicals form tiny glue-like spots that hold
the hair shafts together
 Hair sprays are formulated as aerosols that are powered by
pressurized gasses or non-aerosols that are dispensed by
manually depressing a pump

Hair dyes
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 The usual reason for dying the hair are to change the natural
colour, to colour the white hair which begin to appear with
middle age, or to alter the color of the hair temporarily for a
particular occasion
 Classification of coloring agents:
 Bleaching agents
 Temporary colourings
 Permanent colourings
Hair dyes…cont’d
30
 Bleaching agents
 Products used to bleach or whiten the colour of the hair
 Oxygen releasing Cpd such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium

hypochlorite
 The oxidation process changes the colour to lighter shades
 Temporary colorings
 Used to temporarily affect a physical change in the shade of

the hair
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 Permanent colourings
 These products change the colour of the hair permanently
 Three general types:
 Natural organic
Synthetic organic
Metallic preparations (inorganic)

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 Natural organic
 plant origin and used as infusions, decoctions, or
packs (paste is formed with hot water)
 EX., Henna and chamomile
 Synthetic organic
 Superseded henna and other natural dyes
 Increasingly popular. Ex., pyrogallol (brown shade),
Aminodyes like phenylenediamine (produce different

shades)
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 Metallic preparations(inorganic)
 Principally salts of lead, silver and copper
 Also bismuth, manganese, nickel, iron and cobalt are fairly
common
 EX. Lead acitate and nitrate, silver nitrate, copper sulphate,
etc.
 Forms: powders, crayons (colored pencils), colour
shampoos

Hair dressing/hair grooming products
34
 Used to give the hair natural and healthy appearance

 Characteristics of a good hair dressing preparation:
 Good grooming, luster without greasiness, some degree of
hair conditioning, protection, good wetting action, leave
uniform thin film
 Dandruff control (scaly disease of scalp): selenium disulfide,
zinc pyridinethione
 Ex. Alcoholic lotions, Brilliantines
 Alcoholic lotions:
 Made by diluting viscous oils (castor oil) with alcohol

Hair dressing/hair grooming products……cont’d
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 Brilliantines:
 Main purpose is to add grooming and to afford lustre to the
hair
 Ex. Mixture of mineral oil , deodorized kerosene, color &
perfume

Depilatories
36
 Preparations that remove superfluous hair from the body

(under axilla and on legs) through the use of chemical agents
in paste or cream form
 React with the protein structure of hair breaking it down
 Convert human hair to a soft, plastic mass completely in 2-5
min, which is easily removed, from the skin by wiping and
rinsing
 Ex. Barium and strontium sulfides, sodium and calcium
thioglycolates

Shaving preparations
37
 Products employed by men to help in shaving

 Shaving creams and soaps (pre shave preparations):
 Main functional requirements are to soften the beard and lubricate
the passage of razor over the face
 Besides this, the preparation should be:
 Non-irritating to the skin
 Assist the removal of shaving debris from the face
 Retain moisture during the time it remains on the face
 Non- corrosive to razor blade and easily rinsed from razor and
face.
 Shaving soaps have been very popular in the past, but shaving
creams have now replaced them almost entirely
Aftershave preparations
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 Aftershave preparations
 Function is to relieve feeling of tautness and discomfort
caused by shaving, sooth minor irritations, and impart a
feeling of well- being
 Neutralize the alkali leftover after shave and act as disinfectant
and also as mild astringent
 Alcoholic lotions are by far the most widely used aftershave
preparations (contain 25-50% alcohol)
 Creams and powders are also used

Bath preparations
39
 These are usually formulated to:

 Make the user fully refreshed
 Add pleasing effect to the bath, by means of perfume and

colour
 Clean the body and add pleasing fragrance to the body
 Prevent ring formation around the bathtub
 Bath preparations can be classified as:

 Bath salts
 Bath oils/emulsions
 Bubble bath( by far the most popular)
 Forms: powder, liquid, tablet...........

Lipsticks
40
 Used to brighten the colour of the lips
 The main raw materials required are;
 Colors (Dyes and pigments), Base (Oils and waxes),

perfumes, preservatives (parabens)
 Others like titanium dioxide to modify the shade of the basic

pigments

Lipsticks Cont…
41
 Lip gloss: Gives the lips shine and sometimes subtle color
prepared as a liquid or a soft solid
 Lip balm: is a lip cosmetic product which generally has

medicinal purposes
 Lipstick (Lippy): is a cosmetic product containing pigments,

oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and texture to the
lips

Lipsticks Cont…
42
Quality of good lipstick, It should be:-

 Non-toxic and Non-irritating
 Free from gritty particles
 Easily applicable and easily removable if need arises
 Good odor
 Give shine and smooth appearance
 Not dry on storage
 Maintain its lip color long after application
 Not break during use and it should maintain its firmness till whole of it is
used up

Cosmetics for the Nails
43
 Products used to decorate and enhance the appearance of the nails

 Nail lacquers/Enamels
 Characteristics of a good nail lacquer:
 Ease of application, quick drying, early hardening, resistance
to chipping and abrasion, adhesion to the nail
 Characteristics of a satisfactory film are:
 Even thickness  demands satisfactory viscosity of the
lacquer, i.e., neither too thick nor too thin and good wetting and
flowing properties.
 Uniform colour  demands a very finely divided pigment
intimately ground and wetted by the medium.

Nail lacquers/Enamels....Cont’d
44
 Good gloss  implies very smooth surface, which depends on

the property of the medium.
 Good adhesion to the nail
 Sufficient flexibility to avoid brittleness and cracking
 Hard and non- tacky surface, resistant to impact and scratching
 Possess satisfactory drying properties (drying time 1-2 min)
 Maintain these properties for at least a week.

Nail lacquers/Enamels....Cont’d
45
 Ingredients:
 Film former: cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate- butyrate,
ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymers etc
 Nitrocellulose is outstanding for its hardness, resistance to
abrasion and rapid solvent release  widely used
 Disadv. Tendency to shrink and become brittle, low order of
gloss, only fair adhesion to most surfaces
 Other ingredients:
 Resins (polyvinyl acetate), plasticizers (dibutyl phthalate),
solvents (ethyl acetate) and pigments.

removers
46
 Used to remove lacquers
 May be simply individual solvents or may be more complex

mixtures of a number of solvents incorporating small amounts
of fats, oil, waxes or other similar agents intended to reduce
drying action of the solvents upon the nail
 Ex. Methyl ethyl ketone, ethyl acetate

47
Unwanted Effects of Nail Polishes

 The nail polishes can cause an orange staining of the nail plate
 Nail lacquers can cause keratin granulation
 Nail varnishes can also cause allergic contact dermatitis, more
rarely, contact urticarial

2. Face cosmetics
48
 Is a cosmetic powder  chemically and

applied to the face to set physically stable
foundation.  spread easily and
Characteristics of face adhere to the skin
powder:  Good absorbing
 very fine property
 evenly distributed  good to remove
 non-toxic and non-  shine from the face,
irritant to the skin and so forth.

49
 A concealer or color corrector; is a type of makeup used to cover

pimples, dark circles and other small blemishes visible on the skin
 Mainly used by women but also by some men
 Rouge (Blush): to redden the cheeks to provide a more youthful

appearance, and to emphasis the cheekbones in the forms of compact,
liquid, cream and stick
 Typically used by women

50
 Foundation: skin colored cosmetics which give uniform color

the face and conceal flaws (defect) to produce an impression of
health and youth which are usually prepared as a liquid, cream,
or powder.
 Cold cream: cosmetic preparation which applied to smooth

face and remove makeup

Eye cosmetics (make up)
51
 Eye liner: is a cosmetic used to define the eyes to create a

variety of beautiful appearance.
 Eye shadow: Is applied to eyelids and corners of the eyes to

create shadow and produce a sense of relief in order to
emphasize the beauty of the eyes.

52
 The quality requirements for eye shadows include:

They should be easy to apply smoothly and have good skin
adhesion
They should have no oily luster when applied
There should be no change in color
They should not be spoiled by sweat or sebum and maintain
a good appearance
They should be highly safe as they used around the eyes

53
 Mascara: is a cosmetic used to darken, thicken and

define eyelashes to emphasize, thicken, lengthen, and
define lashes
 It is available with tube and wand applicators
 Quality requirement for mascara are as follows.
be non-irritating,
not harden the eyelashes
make the eyelashes look thick and long

54
have an appropriate shine
have an appropriate drying time not go on the lower eyelids

and
their appearance, must not be spoiled by sweat, tears or

rain
be easy to remove
be easy; and not be contaminated by microorganism.

55
Eye wrinkle care products: are products that produce

humectant effects used to prevent the skin around the eyes from
drying.
Eyebrow cosmetics: Are used after adjusting the form of the

eyebrows with razors or scissors or by plucking out hairs to draw
in the desired form, to make darker in color or brighter
Eye makeup remover: To remove the different types of makeup

5. Skin cosmetics
56
These are cosmetics applied

 Skin whitening products
to the dead cells of the corneal
 Shaving preparations
layer.
 Antiperspirants and
 Skin cleansing liquids
deodorants
 Skin moisturizers

57
The basic function of skin cosmetics

 Anti-drying, cleansing, ultraviolet damage prevention, anti-
oxidation and invigoration
 Clean up skin problems
 Whitening effect to combat skin aging associated troubles
 Prevent wrinkles, sagging skin and acne
 To mask body odor

58
Moisturizers (emollients)
 Hold moisture in the skin.
 Work best when applied while the skin is still wet from a bath
or shower.
 Don’t actually add moisture to skin.
 Form a physical barrier that hinders evaporation of water from
the skin.

59
Anti-aging cream
 Moisturizer based skin care products marketed with the promise of
making the consumer look younger by reducing visible wrinkles
expression lines, blemishes, pigmentation changes, discolorations of
the skin
 Retinol: to reduce fine lines and pores
 Epidermal Growth Factor: stimulate cell renewal and collagen
production in the skin and strengthen elasticity and structure

60
 Alpha hydroxyl acids: help dissolve the intracellular "glue"

that holds the dead cells together on the skin and enhances the
exfoliation of the dead cells.
Depilatories
 have the property of removing hair from the skin
 Bronzers
 are cosmetic product that darken skin color

61
Antiperspirants and deodorants

 Cosmetics for preventing body odor contain antiperspirant
perfumes and antibacterial agents
Antiperspirants
 are topically applied products designed to reduce under arm
wetness by limiting eccrine sweat production.
 Zirconium and aluminum chlorides, aluminium hydrochloride,
potassium aluminum sulfate, zinc oxide and zinc
paraphenolsulfonate
62
 Deodorants: Are topically applied products designed to reduce

under arm odor
Application forms for deodorant actives
 Typical application forms are sticks, roll-ons, creams, pump

sprays, aerosols, and gels
 Sunscreen formulation: block sun induced skin problem
which are available in creams and lotions

7. Oral cosmetics
63
 Divided into oral cleansing products and mouth fresheners

products
 Preparation for external use which clean the teeth and
surrounding them, cleanse and refresh the inside of the mouth,
prevent dental caries and periodontal disease
 Divided in to dentifrices and mouthwash

64
Dentifrices
 Applied to the teeth with a tooth brush for cleansing the
accessible surfaces of the teeth to enhance appearance of the
teeth, reduce tooth decay and bad odor of the mouth and
make the gum healthy
 They are found in the form of tooth powder, toothpaste and
liquid-form dentifrices
 Ingredients include: polishing agents (abrasive), surface active
agents (detergent), humectants, binders, sweetening agents,

Flavoring agents, preservatives

65
Qualities of dentifrices
 It must remove foreign particles, food substances, plaque and
clean the teeth
 Must be non-toxic
 Must be properly flavored and sweetened
 Must leave the mouth with a refreshing after-taste

66
Mouth washes (Mouth rinse): Used to clean the inside of the

mouth, prevent halitosis (bad smell) and refresh the mouth.
 Similar in form to a liquid-form dentifrice but used without
toothbrush
 Ingredients: ethanol, and other solvents, humectants,
solubilizers, flavoring agents, preservatives and pH regulators

67
Mouth Freshener: Is preparation for internal use designed to

prevent nausea and other feelings of discomfort.
 They are found in the form of pills, lozenges and liquids
 Ingredients used to flavor mouth fresheners have a strong
freshening effect and include
o cinnamon, mint oil, fennel oil, D-camphor, L-menthol
o Depending on the form of mouth refresher, other diluting
agents, flavoring agents and preservatives are also used

68
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1

HLT PHS4 06 1121

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Supplier's product leaflets/manuals

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Product information May

 Benefits and effects of various products

 Customer personal requirements

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Cosmetic is derived from the Greek word kosmtikos meaning

 Cosmetology is the science of beautifying the skin and its

 The scientific knowledge of cosmetology enables to give

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Cosmetics: are substances used to enhance or protect the

 They are preparation that intended to be rubbed, poured,

 Their use is widespread, especially among women

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

In another word cosmetics are:

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Soap is specifically excluded from cosmetics in the FDCA

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Hair sprays and gels

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 The common cosmetic problems include:

 Premature aging of skin

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 The pharmacy technician provides product information

 Ingredients of the products

 The available brand options

 Application procedures/techniques of specific products

 Benefits and effects of various products

 Price of the products

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Therefore, the expected function of pharmacy technicians is:

Delivering product knowledge developed and maintained

Storing product accurately according to product

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

Transmitting product information to other staff members

Helping customer choose the best product suit to him/her

Comparing between products and services researched and

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Cosmetics products are dissolved into or mixed with different

 The excipients may be used to bulk up cosmetic formulations

 They are only used when absolutely necessary and in the

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 The duration of cosmetic products is affected by denature of

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 All ingredients in cosmetics are to be identified and

 Fillers/Diluents/vehicle: fill out the amount of the product,

making it practical to produce and convenient for the consumer

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 An antioxidant: preventing the oxidation of other additives

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 Humectants must have appropriate water absorption ability,

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 They can be classified

 Eye make ups

 Lip decorators and carers

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023

 a preparation of a surfactant(i.e. surface active material)in suitable

 Shampoos are of the following types:

Provide Counseling Service on Beauty Care 11/13/2023