Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Mysterious
Pyongyang:
Cosmetics, Beauty
Culture and
North Korea
Sung-wook Nam Su-lan Chae
Graduate School of Public Policy Asiatic Research Institute
Korea University Korea University
Seoul, Korea (Republic of) Seoul, Korea (Republic of)
Ga-young Lee
Asiatic Research Institute
Korea University
Seoul, Korea (Republic of)
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Preface
v
vi PREFACE
Fig. 1 The Korean Central News Agency releases Kim Jong-Il’s visit to the
factory
viii PREFACE
Fig. 2 Kim Jong-un with first lady visited Sinuiju Cosmetics Factory on June
30, 2017
References
B.R. Myers. 2012. The Cleanest Race: How North Koreans See Themselves and
Why It Matters. New York: Melville House Publishing.
Ellen, Brun, and Jacques Hersh. 1976. Socialist Korea: A Case Study in the
Strategy of Economic Development. New York: Monthly Review Press.
Contents
xv
xvi CONTENTS
References 327
Index 335
North Korea main cities Source National Geographic Information Institute.
(http://www.ngil.go.kr/world/koreamap_en.html)
List of Figures
xix
xx LIST OF FIGURES
xxiii
xxiv LIST OF TABLES
life of Soviet people and a context of their attitudes toward things. Based
on discourse analysis, four main stages were defined. In the 1917–1920s,
the ideology of everyday asceticism and revolutionary reorganization of
life dominated. In the 1930s, the idea of “kulturnost” prevailed, which
promoted rehabilitation of coziness and consumer values. In the 1950–
1960s, ideological opposition between Soviet Union and the West got
special attention, which resulted in the development of the idea of Soviet
taste. The discourse of the 1970s was built around the frame of dema-
terialization. Thus, in this article it was shown that the ideology of
consumption, which regulated the attitudes toward consumer goods, was
not monolithic during the whole period, and the official attitudes toward
clothes and consumption were different in different periods of Soviet
history. Such transformations were complex combinations of changes in
politics, economics, culture, and daily life.
Some researchers highly contributed to the growing body of scholar-
ship on consumption and consumerism behind the Iron Curtain. This
insightful and elegantly edited collection sets out to explore Cold War
Eastern Europe “beyond the one-dimensional images of long shopping
lines, shabby apartment blocks, bare shelves, and outdated fashions.”
Spanning a broad range of regions and decades, the volume traverses
the terrain of consumer culture in nine countries (including the under-
studied countries of Bulgaria and Romania), from the aftermath of
World War II to the disintegration of the Communist Bloc in the late
1980s. With a focus on specific products and individual consumer expe-
riences, the paper titled “Communism Unwrapped: Consumption in
Cold War Eastern Europe” constructs a well-balanced, nuanced, and—
at times—unexpected profile of the socialist citizen-consumer, while also
investigating the complexity of consumption practices in centrally planned
economies. As is inevitable for any collection of case studies, the analysis
is neither thematically nor historically exhaustive. Nevertheless, without
attempting to present an overarching historical chronology of the devel-
opment of Eastern European consumption, the volume offers new and
intriguing perspectives on individual consumer experiences within the
context of broader sociopolitical and historical developments in the
Communist Bloc. As such, the collection under review is, without a
doubt, a touchstone for the study of consumption in Cold War Eastern
Europe. Uniformly well-written and thoroughly researched, the book will
be of interest to scholars of Eastern European history and culture, as well
4 S. NAM ET AL.
as to any reader wishing to acquire fresh insights into daily life under
communism (Paulina Bren and Mary Neuburger 2012: 330–332).
Another research describes the agony and pain of women who perceive
themselves as ugly, who feel victimized by excess hair, weight, asymmet-
rical physical features, color, and even gender itself. They believe they
fall outside the standards of desired appearance and they thus experience
themselves as deviant and lacking in social value. The author claims that
such awareness develops because “a lot of people are going around with
a lot of hostile stuff” looking for somebody to victimize, taking every
opportunity to humiliate those who do not meet the societal criteria for
desired appearance. The stories related here reveal how such encounters
led to self-doubt and self-hate for these women and the constant search to
hide their imperfections. With this frame of mind, they can never achieve
a sense of adequacy (Wendy Chapkis 1999: 1–30).
There is also research of description that socialist government has
sought to shape the meaning of consumption for their citizens, as well
as to control the production and distribution of consumer goods. The
author explains concretely ideological representations of goods, services,
and lifestyles aimed to prevent popular unrest, to motivate people to
work, and to demonstrate the justice and superiority of socialism in
contrast to capitalism. This entry focuses on the ideology of consump-
tion. Although the emphasis here is on the USSR, Soviet ideology served
as a template for many other socialist governments (Jane Zavisca 2011:
1–20).
The research also explores that the representation of an ideal female
body in North Korea by examining women’s fashion as manifested in
visual media such as stage productions, films, magazine illustrations,
paintings, and posters. The author ultimately argues that visual media
in North Korea are not merely consumerist objects but by far the most
important form of bodily discipline. Their functions are wide in scope—
they educate, entertain, and mobilize people. In a society where ideals
shape reality itself, the way in which visual images are coordinated and
circulated is far from accidental. He explains that in North Korea, the
images of women on stage and screen function as models to emulate, thus
imposing ideal bodily practices onto viewers. Examining the dress codes
of female protagonists on stage and screen illuminates how the North
Korean state has set out to craft an ideal female body by constantly nego-
tiating revolutionary masculinity and traditional femininity (Suk-Young
Kim 2011: 159–191).
1 WOMEN IN NORTH KOREA: IDEAL AND REALITY 5
potential to both challenge and support the North Korean system. This
research significantly advances scholarship on gender and entrepreneur-
ship by adopting a constructionist approach to gender and transcending
the prevalence of descriptive analysis of gendered entrepreneurial practices
(Kyungja Jung et al. 2018: 19–27).
the evidence for what they need to concentrate on. Mass media guides the
public’s attention toward potential agendas that call for their attention.
As North Korea completely controls its mass media, they put their
desired agenda at the forefront, which invariably reflects the party’s views,
and thereby distribute their propaganda. Conversely, by grasping closely
the highlighted points of North Korea’s mass media, inferring the poli-
cy’s purposes that guide North Korea’s actions, it will be possible for
researcher to forecast the next measures. Second, the theory of political
image manipulation systematically explains the phenomenon that leader
and elites want to make the masses believe their policy by skillfully manip-
ulating images like symbols and stories. Dr. C. E Merriam classified the
political symbols as Miranda, a symbol of praise like anecdote, beauti-
fication of history, and a parade, and Credenda, a symbol of trust like
constitution, creed, and ideology (Merriam, Charles Edward, 1934: 1–
50). The dictators try to reinforce the loyalty of the mass to the power by
heightening the sense of unity. Dr. Paul Joseph Goebbels (1897–1945),
minister of communication for Nazi Germany in 1930s, effectively manip-
ulated the image of a demagogue, Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) by mixing
the symbols of Miranda and Credenda.
North Korea has periodically published the magazine controlled by the
regime through demonstrating many cases of Miranda and persuaded the
people to unresistingly follow its policy. North Korea has been striving
to find heroes through creating periodic movements of social change
since the foundation of the regime. A classic example of this would
be a movement entitled “Learn through Jung Chun-sil” since 1983
under the guidance of North Korean founder Kim Il-sung order. In
this policy promotion system, all people have to doubtlessly benchmark
virtual characters. The North Korean regime promotes its policies by
using the technique of creating heroines of desirable women who actively
participate in the construction of socialism. Policies which tactfully find
heroes and encourage people to work hard as if they themselves are
heroes, originate from the “Stakhanov movement” in the Soviet Union in
1935. According to the authority’s agitation, every mining worker must
follow his extravagant performance in coal extraction, although the target
quantity was swollen.
Women of Joseon can be one exemplary model that puts across the
authority’ policy and explores various types of “the heroine.” Heroines
in the journal are categorized into five types of ideal womanhood—the
hardworking woman, the woman revolutionary, the professional woman,
10 S. NAM ET AL.
the devoted wife and wise mother, and the woman of military support
and volunteering. Those five types were used to identify the reality
of the regime’s women policy and infer the implications of the policy
made during the reign period Kim Jong-un in what is known as the
third-generation succession since 2012.
For an overview of the women’s policy in North Korea from a macro-
scopic perspective, the Rodong Newspaper and the North Korean Central
News Agency also have been consulted to understand the overall trends,
and for a detailed approach and substantiation, 60 volumes of Women
of Joseon from January 2012 to December 2016 were subject to anal-
ysis. This is the monthly journal published by the Joseon Democratic
Women Federation. Its first issue came out in September of 1946, with
739 issues as of late 2019. It is specially designed to advocate North
Korean propaganda to women as an official medium that disseminates the
regime’s policy to women in the field. Due to the peculiarity of research
on North Korea, such literature is viewed as the sole channel that enables
us to closely look into specific North Korean policies and principles. The
research attempts to provide a critical analysis of the contents and inten-
tions of women policy advocated by the North Korean regime and induce
the research findings that will help to bring about gender equality for a
united Korea in the future.
together with men, women are the one pillar and wheel that contribute
to the construction of the socialist state, and so they should perform the
work just as men do in the field of construction, agriculture, and mining,
and in doing so, they can truly be liberated from patriarchal society.
North Korea enacted “family law” at the Supreme People’s Assembly on
October 24 in 1990 and revised and supplemented the old version in
1993 and again in 2004.
The eye-catching part of “family law” is that the traditional family
system and heritage has been recovered. Under Chapter 1, Article 6 of
the family law (protection principles of children and mothers), mothers
shall do their duty of caring for and disciplining children. Under Article
35 (relationship between grandparents and grandchildren), grandchildren
shall be responsible for the healthy life of their grandparents when they
grow older. This is to pass the state duty onto individuals by extending
the scope of relatives to a wider area of family support. “Family law”
stresses the importance of a mother’s role at the official level and extends
the scope of family support, tightening the state control of family forma-
tion and disintegration. State regulation and involvement in family affairs
eventually added to the burdens women already faced. The responsibility
for the social welfare program also shifted from the authorities to women
with the revised laws, forcing women to perform diversified and multiple
tasks. With the enactment of laws that call for the multiple roles of
women, legal responsibility that women should bear has been expanded.
about the heroines being recognized for their efforts to get through diffi-
culty and achieve their goals. So, then, we will now turn our outline of
this study as we look to examine North Korean policy by categorizing five
types of ideal womanhood—the hardworking woman, the woman revo-
lutionary, the professional woman, the good wife and wise mother, and
the woman of military support and volunteering.
First type is the hardworking woman. North Korea strongly encour-
ages women’s participation in society because women make up half of
the total population and can contribute to economic growth if actively
involved in the construction of the socialist state. Women of Joseon advo-
cates women who make remarkable achievements or are devoted to the
authorities’ core industries. The areas where these women mostly engage
are agriculture, mining, and silkworm cocoon production. In line with the
authorities’ core policy, the journal introduces examples of heroines who
had done extremely well in forest recovery, recovery from flood damage,
and support for construction sites. Men originally were responsible for
food supplies with the distribution system at work, but their capacity to
supply food reached its limit when the public distribution system collapsed
since the hardship and famine period (1995–1998).
The view spread that stay-at-home women should take responsibility
for supporting the family on behalf of the men who counted on an ineffi-
cient distribution system of the incompetent state. The journal advocates
that farming is the way to bring honor to the regime and addressing
food shortage is the way to win the fight against the enemy. It also main-
tains that solving food problems is what the former leaders wanted them
to do (2015, 10th: 49). The journal also calls for an increase in crop
production, citing women examples who are recognized for their efforts
to address food shortage through such methods as weed removal and
manure production. Notably, in spring, it introduces the hardworking
heroine who produces manure and takes it to the farm. For example, there
is a story about a former-track athlete Yoon Ok-sil who walked for 40 km
taking manure in the freezing winter and sweltering summer (2015, 2nd:
42–43). In autumn, the season of harvest, the journal runs articles about
crop harvest and threshing.
Those articles are there because in rural areas where threshing facili-
ties and equipment are often lacking, harvest and threshing are important
tasks to be done. It is necessary to accumulate the pile of grass manure
by cutting the grass on time and improve fertility of the soil to further
increase the grain production. The farmers as well as our women should
14 S. NAM ET AL.
She has the image of mother of the regime, depicted as a woman with
warmth who comforts bereaved families and takes care of the wounded
and other soldiers at the battlefield (2015, 2nd: 23). Her third image
is a wise intellectual who leads through turbulent times. After indepen-
dence, Kim helped the federation members go to school in efforts to
fight illiteracy. At the same time, Kim is depicted as a person of active-
ness and enthusiasm visiting women who are not allowed to go to school
due to their in-laws and husbands (2016, 4th: 23). She is also described
16 S. NAM ET AL.
Korea are encouraged to induct many children into the armed forces.
North Korea is also faced with a low fertility rate due to a depressed
economy that has lasted since the North Korean famine in the mid-1990s,
so the regime tries to persuade women to give birth to many babies,
informing women that it is the job of women and an act of patriotism. In
the North, which holds to the ‘sungun’ (military-first) policy, the policy
to promote childbirth matters because more babies translate into more
military forces. Women who have many babies are awarded the title of
heroin and are given chances to have a discussion in the national competi-
tion for mothers. Moreover, North Korea uses various ways to encourage
and promote childbirth (2016, 8th: 43). North Korea glorifies the idea of
having more babies as an act of lofty patriotism and the job of the mother
under the ‘sungun’ policy. However, women who have more children lead
a more difficult life because they must juggle childcare, office work, and
house chores. Notably, they have to help their children study and socialize
while paying attention to their health if they want their children to work
for the army (2015, 6th: 45; 2016, 9th: 46):
Ryu Soon-ok visited the injured soldier’s house and checked his hobbies,
tastes, and even household as though she were his mother. Since then she
visited his house on national holidays and birthdays, as well as on ordinary
days and checked his health condition and helped him not to have any
difficulties and discomforts. (2012, 5th: 47)
It was not easy to get clothing to be worn by many children, not even
one or two. But she was enthusiastic about the leader’s love for the future
generation and prepared warm and cozy clothing. Hong Jung-sook and
other women’s union members who operated the sewing machine day and
night put smiles on their faces imagining children who will receive the
clothes and will be happy with the new clothing. (2015, 9th: 29)
1 WOMEN IN NORTH KOREA: IDEAL AND REALITY 23
August 21st.
The hilly country has ceased and we have once more reached the
flat plains. This morning the guard brought a man into my carriage
and asked me if I minded his sitting there. I said I did not mind. I
offered him some tea. The man made no answer, and looked at me
with a vacant stare. Then the guard laid him down at full length, and
said, “This man is the assistant station-master at Manchuria station.
He is drunk, but you need not be alarmed; he will be quite quiet.” He
was quiet; at Manchuria station he woke up from his stupor
automatically, as though from frequent habit.
August 22nd.
August 23rd.
We are travelling through the hills of northern Manchuria. News
has arrived of the summoning of a new Duma. Now people say there
will not be peace, and the war will become a national war because it
will have the consent of the people. Others contest this; there are hot
discussions. I have moved into a second-class carriage in which there
is a photographer and a captain. I had my fortune told with cards by
a lady in the train. She said I should soon meet a lot of friends and
experience a change of fortune for the better.
August 28th.
August 31st.
September 1st.
September 10th.
September 13th.
September 15th.
September 16th.
September 19th.
September 21st.
A fine, hot, and glorious September day. The evening was one of
those things that linger in one’s mind like music. The sky was a very
faint mauve, something between mauve and pink, like a hydrangea,
or as Dante says:—
“Men che di rose e più che di viole
Colore aprendo,”
September 27th.
Autumn has come and it is too cold now for the men to be
encamped here out of doors, so we have moved into quarters in the
town.
October 1st.
October 6th.