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The Handsome Chris Pullover

A sweater recipe by Caryn S.

This pattern is complete, but I’m still in need of real-life measurements. All pieces are
correct in theory. Things I don’t know for sure are highlighted.

NEW: 2XL and 3XL INSTRUCTIONS added 4/7/21

This pattern is simply a replica of a sweater from the Knives Out movie, reverse engineered for
funsies in 7 sizes with 2 sleeve width options. It is a drop shoulder pullover, knit in pieces and
seamed.

I was advised to make a Ravelry pattern page for this so it would be easier for everyone who
has knitted it to find other projects. If you would like to support the work that went into writing
this pattern, consider buying me a ko-fi.

Dette mønster er oversat til dansk her.

SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate to experienced. Must know basic garment construction, seaming, knitting in the
round, following charts, knitting cables (with or without a cable needle.)

NEEDLES
A US 5 and a US 7 needle, circs or straights for the body. You’ll need a size 5 circ for knitting in
the round on the collar, and a cable needle if that’s how you roll. But really just learn how to
cable without a cable needle. Your life will be much better when you do.
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YARN
More than 2,500 yards of white DK or worsted weight yarn. I’m using Blue Moon Fiber Arts
Targhee Worsted in Snowflake, but I would encourage you to use any worsted weight yarn you
like.

GAUGE
20 sts and 26 rows = 4” in reverse stockinette stitch on larger needle; 24 sts of panel C = 3.5”
wide.

NOTIONS
A big ol’ handful of stitch markers. Two stitch holders or waste yarn if you’d prefer to graft the
shoulders. A yarn needle.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Sleeves: See instructions for customization.
Sizes: XS, (S, M, L,) XL, 2XL, 3XL
Chest circumference: 36, (40, 44, 48,) 52, 56, 60”
Width at the bottom hem: 17, (19, 21, 23,) 25, 27, 29
Body length: 23, (24, 25, 26,) 27, 28, 29”

NOTES

On body lengths

The suggestions on how long to knit the pieces of the sweater are just that: suggestions. For the
best fitting sweater, measure yourself or your person before knitting. You could even make a
Knives Out sweater dress!

Other customizations

This sweater comes in 7 sizes, but you can make larger or smaller sizes the same way you can
with any other knitted garment. If you’re between sizes, consider knitting the larger size using
smaller needles. If you need a larger size than XL, you can alternate A and B panels on either
side of the body until you achieve your desired width. If you need a size smaller than XS, you
can subtract A and B panels on either side of the body.

Some suggestions from Ravelry user kmij:

● To scale down the sweater for smaller individuals, remove some of the purling spacing
so everything is much closer together.
● Change 3x3 parallel cables to 2x2 parallel cables.
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BACK

CO 134, (150, 166, 178,) 194, 210, 226 sts on smaller needles, work (p1tbl, k1tbl) ribbing for 2,
(2, 3, 3,) 3, 3, 4”

Switch to larger needles and continue with cable setup rows in the size you’ve selected.

XS ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): k2, pfb, p2, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3,
p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k, p1tbl, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1tbl, k, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2,
p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2, p2, pfb, k2. 10 sts increased, 144 stitches

Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel A over the first 14 sts, PM, work
row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1
of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel C over next 24 sts, PM, work row 1 of
panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B
over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts.

S ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): k1, p4, pfb, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2,
p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k1, p1tbl, (k4, p2) 3 times, k4, p1tbl, k1, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4,
k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, pfb, p4, k1. 10 sts increased, 160 stitches

Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel E over first 8 sts, PM, work row
1 of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of
panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel C
over next 24 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over
next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14
sts, PM, work row 1 of panel D over next 8 sts.

Continue to instructions for ALL SIZES

M ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): k1, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4,
k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p6, k2, pfb, p4, k1, p1tbl, (k4, p2) 3 times, k4, p1tbl, k1, p4, pfb, k2, p6, k3,
p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k1. 10 sts increased,
176 stitches
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Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel B over 16 sts, PM, work row 1
of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of
panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel C
over next 24 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over
next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14
sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts

Continue to instructions for ALL SIZES

L ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): (k2, p4) twice k3, p4, pfb, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4,
k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k1, p1tbl, (k4, p2) 3 times, k4, p1tbl, k1, p4, pfb, k2, pfb,
p4, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, pfb, p4, k3, (p4, k2) twice. 10 sts
increased, 188 stitches

Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel A over the first 14 sts, PM, work
row 1 of panel E over the next 8 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over the next 14 sts, PM, work
row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1
of panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel C over next 24 sts, PM, work row 1 of
panel B over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B
over next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel D over
next 8 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over last 14 sts.

Continue to instructions for ALL SIZES

XL ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): (k2, p4) twice, k, kfb, (p6, kfb) twice, k1, p4, k2, p4, k1, (kfb, p6)
twice, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p6, k2, p6, k1, p1, (k4, p2) 3 times, k4, p1, k1, p6, k2, p6, k3, p4, k2,
p4, k3, (p6, kfb) twice, k1, p4, k2, p4, k1, (kfb, p6) twice, kfb, k1, (p4, k2) twice. 10 sts.
increased, 204 stitches

Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel A over the first 14 sts, PM,
Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, Work
row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, Work row 1
of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel C over next 24 sts, pm, work row 1 of
panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B
over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over
next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts.

Continue to instructions for ALL SIZES

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2XL ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): k1, p6, k3, p4, k2, p4, k1, kfb, (p6, kfb) twice, k1, p4, k2, p4, k1,
(kfb, p6) twice, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p6, k2, p6, k1, p1, (k4, p2) 3 times, k4, p1, k1, p6, k2, p6, k3,
p4, k2, p4, k3, (p6, kfb) twice, k1, p4, k2, p4, k1, (kfb, p6) twice, kfb, k1, p4, k2, p4, k3, p6, k1.
10 sts. increased, 220 stitches

Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel E over first 8 sts, pm, work row
1 of panel A over the next 14 sts, PM, Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1
of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1 of
panel A over next 14 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel
C over next 24 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over
next 14 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over next 14
sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts,
work row 1 of panel D over the last 8 sts.

Continue to instructions for ALL SIZES

3XL ONLY

Next row (WS, increase row): k1, p6, k2, p6, k3, p4, k2, p4, k1, kfb, (p6, kfb) twice, k1, p4, k2,
p4, k1, (kfb, p6) twice, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, p6, k2, p6, k1, p1, (k4, p2) 3 times, k4, p1, k1, p6, k2,
p6, k3, p4, k2, p4, k3, (p6, kfb) twice, k1, p4, k2, p4, k1, (kfb, p6) twice, kfb, k1, p4, k2, p4, k3,
p6, k2, p6, k1. 10 sts. increased, 236 stitches

Next row, starting the cable charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel B over first 16 sts, pm, work
row 1 of panel A over the next 14 sts, PM, Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work
row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1
of panel A over next 14 sts, pm, Work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, Work row 1 of
panel C over next 24 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A
over next 14 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over
next 14 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts, pm, work row 1 of panel A over next 14
sts, pm, work row 1 of panel B over next 16 sts.

Continue to instructions for ALL SIZES

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ALL SIZES

Continue working charts in this arrangement until piece measures 23, (24, 25, 26,) 27, 28, 29
inches, ending w/ a WS row.

Bind off all stitches.

FRONT

Work the same as the back until the piece measures 20, (21, 22, 23,) 24, 25, 26 inches.

Next row: Work to middle panel. Attach a new yarn and BO 24 middle panel C sts. Work to end
of row. BO 2 sts at the neck edge every other row, and work in pattern on the right side of the
collar until the panel B on either side of Panel C is bound off. Bind off the rest of the stitches1.

On the other side, work in pattern with the yarn you left hanging there, binding off 2 stitches at
the neck edge of every other row until the panel B is bound off. Bind off the rest of the stitches

SLEEVES (Make 2)

There are two size options for sleeves. Read through the instructions completely, and
measure your or your sweater recipient’s arm to determine which option would be the
best for your sweater.

XS-M, for slimmer sleeves

Using smaller needles, CO 73 sts and work (k1tbl, p1tbl) ribbing for 2-3”

Switch to larger needles. The next row is both an increase row and a setup for the cables.

Next row (increase row, WS): k2, pfb, p2, k2, pfb, p2, k3, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k1, p1tbl, (k4,
pfb) 3 times, k4, p1tbl, k1, p4, pfb, k2, pfb, p4, k3, p2, pfb, k2, p2, pfb, k2 84 stitches

Setting up charts (RS): Work row 1 of panel A over 14 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over
next 16 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel C over next 24 sts, PM, work row 1 of panel B over next 16
sts, PM, work row 1 of panel A over next 14 sts.

M-3XL, for wider sleeves

Using smaller needles, CO 78 sts and work (k1tbl, p1tbl) ribbing for 3-4"
1
Alternately, you could hold these last stitches on waste yarn or stitch holders, and graft them with the live stitches for the front, but
this is a pretty lazy sweater that looks like it was completely seamed from separate pieces.
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Switch to larger needles. The next row is both an increase row and a setup for the cables.

Next row (increase row, WS): k1, p6, kpk, p4, kfb, p4, kpk, p6, k2, p6, (kpk) twice, p2, kpk, k1,
p3, kpk, p2, (kpk) twice, p6, k2, p6, kpk, p4, kfb, p4, kpk, p6, k1 (100 sts)

Setting up charts (RS): Work row 1 of D (8 sts), pm, Work row 1 of A (14 sts), pm, work row 1
of B (16 sts), pm, work row 1 of C (24 sts), pm, work row 1 of B (16 sts), pm, work row 1 of A (14
sts), pm, work row 1 of E (8 sts).

ALL SIZES

Optional: Increase 1 stitch on either side of the sleeve on every row 1 of panel C (every 12
rows,) so that the arm tapers outward and you reach the upper arm width you want. For wider
arms, increase the frequency of the increases so that your taper is wider by the time you finish
the sleeve (Increase on either side every 8 rows instead of every 12 rows, for example.)

Continue working charts in this arrangement until the sleeve measures approximately the length
of your mid-bicep to your wrist. On my XL sample, I completed the larger sleeve option to be 22
inches long with approximately 12 repeats of panel C, and had 124 stitches on my needles
before binding off.

Bind off all stitches.

FINISHING

Wash and loosely block all pieces before seaming. I use blocking wires to keep the edges
straight.

Using mattress stitch or grafting, sew shoulders together. Line up the middle of Panel C on the
sleeves with the shoulder seams and sew on sleeves. Sew underarm and side seams.

Pick up an even number of stitches along the neckline. Join in the round and work (k1 tbl, p1)
ribbing in the round for 2-ish inches. Bind off the neckline with a stretchy bind off.
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Panel A

← Row 1 [RS]: p, 2/1RPC, 2/1LPC, 2/1RPC, 2/1LPC, p

→ Row 2 [WS]: k, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k
← Row 3 [RS]: p, k2, p2, 2/2RC, p2, k2, p
→ Row 4 [WS]: k, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k
← Row 5 [RS]: p, 2/1LPC, 2/1RPC, 2/1LPC, 2/1RPC, p
→ Row 6 [WS]: k2, p4, k2, p4, k2
← Row 7 [RS]: p2, 2/2LC, p2, 2/2LC, p2
→ Row 8 [WS]: k2, p4, k2, p4, k2
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Panel B

← Row 1 [RS]: p, 3/3RC, p2, 3/3LC, p

→ Row 2 [WS]: k, p6, k2, p6, k
← Row 3 [RS]: p, k6, p2, k6, p
→ Row 4 [WS]: k, p6, k2, p6, k
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Panel C

← Row 1 [RS]: k1tbl, p4, 1/1RC, p4, 1/1RC, p4, 1/1RC, p4, k1tbl
→ Row 2 [WS]: p1tbl, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1tbl
← Row 3 [RS]: k1tbl, p3, 1/1RPC, 1/1LPC, p2, 1/1RPC, 1/1LPC, p2, 1/1RPC, 1/1LPC, p3, k1tbl
→ Row 4 [WS]: p1tbl, k3, p, k2, p, k2, p, k2, p, k2, p, k2, p, k3, p1tbl
← Row 5 [RS]: k1tbl, p2, 1/1RPC, p2, 1/1LPC, 1/1RPC, p2, 1/1LPC, 1/1RPC, p2, 1/1LPC, p2, k1tbl
→ Row 6 [WS]: p1tbl, k2, p, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p, k2, p1tbl
← Row 7 [RS]: k1tbl, p2, k, p4, 1/1RC, p4, 1/1RC, p4, k, p2, k1tbl
→ Row 8 [WS]: p1tbl, k2, p, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p, k2, p1tbl
← Row 9 [RS]: k1tbl, p2, 1/1LPC, p2, 1/1RPC, 1/1LPC, p2, 1/1RPC, 1/1LPC, p2, 1/1RPC, p2, k1tbl
→ Row 10 [WS]: p1tbl, k3, p, k2, p, k2, p, k2, p, k2, p, k2, p, k3, p1tbl
← Row 11 [RS]: k1tbl, p3, 1/1LPC, 1/1RPC, p2, 1/1LPC, 1/1RPC, p2, 1/1LPC, 1/1RPC, p3, k1tbl
→ Row 12 [WS]: p1tbl, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1tbl
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Panel D

← Row 1 [RS]: p, 3/3LC, p

→ Row 2 [WS]: k, p6, k
← Row 3 [RS]: p, k6, p
→ Row 4 [WS]: k, p6, k
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Panel E

← Row 1 [RS]: p, 3/3RC, p

→ Row 2 [WS]: k, p6, k
← Row 3 [RS]: p, k6, p
→ Row 4 [WS]: k, p6, k
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Abbreviations
1/1RPC: Sl 1 st onto cable needle and hold in back, k1, p1 from cable needle
1/1RC: Sl 1 st onto cable needle and hold in back, k1, k1 from cable needle
1/1LPC: Sl 1 st onto cable needle and hold in front, p1, k1 from cable needle
2/1RPC: Sl 1 st onto cable needle and hold in back, k2, p1 from cable needle
2/1LPC: sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, p1, k2 from cable needle
2/2RC: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle
2/2LC: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle
3/3LC: Sl 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in front. K3, K3 from cable needle
3/3RC: Sl 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold in back. K3, K3 from cable needle
CO - Cast on
Dec - decrease
Inc - increase
K - knit
k1tbl: knit 1 through the back loop
Kfb - knit into the front and back of the stitch. Increases one stitch.
Kfbf - knit into the front, back and front again of the stitch. Increases two stitches.
Kpk - (k1, p1, k1) into next st. 2 sts increased.
M1(s) - Make one(s)
P - purl
P1tbl - purl 1 through the back loop
Pfb - purl into the front and back of the stitch. Increases one stitch.
PM - place marker
RS - Right side
st(s) - stitch(es)
Tbl - through the back loop
WS - wrong side
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FAQ (Questions in the Ravelry comments)

Why is the cable facing the wrong way?

It just is. I don’t want to fix it.

How can I avoid all of the sewing?

One method someone on reddit suggested: “Knit bottom up to the armpits, then knit flat and do
a 3-needle bindoff on the top of the shoulders. Knit the sleeves bottom up in the round, so the
only seams would be attaching the sleeves. The charts should be the same, just every side is a
right-side row and you’d read every row from right to left.”

I wrote this knit flat & seamed because it’s how the original Knives Out sweater appears to be
constructed. I was working on a sweater at the time with similar construction and it just made
sense. I always tend to get weird bunching on my sleeve seams when I have to sew a round
sleeve to a round armhole, and I don’t mind a lot of sewing.

Here’s a blog post from Modern Daily Knitting on the merits of seamed garments.

For the original measurements, did you use DK or worsted?

My sweater is XL and knitted in worsted weight and I’m getting the pattern measurements.
Some people have used DK or sport weight for a lighter, looser sweater. Mine is fairly dense
and heavy.

I’ve done cables and they’re not hard for me to understand. With that being said, this
pattern for anyone who have done this pattern through and through, how difficult is the
pattern to read from the viewpoint of cables?

I recommend this for intermediate to advanced knitters who understand cables and basic
garment construction. However, if you’ve knitted a cabled scarf, you should be able to make
this. It’s literally 4 cabled scarves sewn together, and then you have to pick up stitches for the
collar.

The cables in this pattern are pretty basic cables that can be done with or without a cable
needle. Some travel and some wind around each other. There are no axis cables that require 2
cable needles.

Do we bind off in pattern or just do a knitted bind off across?

Totally up to you. I know my edges will be hidden with mattress stitch.

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Can you make larger sizes, beyond 3XL?

Yes. Message me on Ravelry (crayolacrayonnn) or tweet at me (@_Caryn_S)

What are some other similar patterns to this one? I have not knit enough cables!

Dressed to Kill (rav link) and Saven (rav link) are both inspired by the Knives Out sweater.