The Calamint Jeans - Free Sewing Pattern

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It seems that skinny jeans are being shoved to the side this year as wide-leg or loose-fit silhouettes are chosen more and Beginner Sewing Patterns
more often. The Calamint Jeans are the perfect blend of vintage and modern, with a high-waist and a straight-leg
boyfriend fit. Create yours in a classic denim or jump on the colorful jeans trend with Mood’s Stratton twill! Free Cosplay Sewing Patterns
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Purchase Materials Used Below:

2 yards Bright Navy Cotton Denim Twill
1/2 yard Cotton Poplin for Pocketing
1 Navy Metal Zipper with Gold Pull and Teeth – 6″
1 pkg Silver Dritz 6 Jean Buttons
1 pkg Schmetz Sewing Machine Double Hemstitch
Needle
1 spool Denim Thread
MDF221 – The Calamint Jeans Sewing Pattern (free
download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

Denim
Heavyweight Twill
Canvas
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The Anthea Milkmaid Dress

All seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is – Free Sewing Pattern
available up to a size 30. August 15, 2022
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Pattern
February 18, 2022
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Free Sewing Pattern
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Sewing Pattern
Cutting layout: Be sure you are cutting on the fold, with all pattern pieces laying on their correct grainline, right sides of fabric
December 7, 2020
facing each other.
Note: I highly recommend laying out all pattern pieces before cutting to ensure you have the best ‘fabric consumption’ layout
with your pattern pieces.
SEWING TERMS TO KN
ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE ⅜” INCLUDED IN PATTERNS
My layout photo is using the beta version (before multiple sizes were added) of the pattern pieces so a few may look
somewhat different.
Sewing Instructions: FREE SEWING PATTERNS
SEWING TUTORIALS ALL ABOUT FABRIC STYLE GUIDES FASHION TRENDS SHOP
Taking your Back Pant Leg and your Back Yoke we will attach corresponding yoke pieces to the corresponding back leg first:
The finished join should look like this for both Back Pant leg/Back yoke:
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After you have joined the Back Pant leg to Back Yoke for either pant leg, you will clean finish with a merrow or a short/wide
zig-zag the raw edges of the seam you just sewed.
ON PINTEREST
Next, you will do two rows of topstitching, using either your double-needle or two single
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distance from each other (No more than ⅜” distance apart so you can catch the seam allowance on the underside to lay
flat)
*Seam allowance will point down toward pant leg
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Preparing the pocket:
Press down the top edge of the pocket (wider is the top) ⅜” and then ⅜” fold again
Press the bottom of the pocket up toward the top as shown
Do two rows of topstitching same ⅛” from the top and bottom fold using thread to match, if you use contrast thread
be sure the bobbin matches that thread
Press in either side of pocket ⅜” (See second photo)
Stitch either side and bottom fold of pocket CLOSEST to the raw edge ⅛” (See third photo below)
To align pocket placement with your back pant leg, fold back pattern along pocket placement indications and place a pin
(Chalk can be difficult to remove from your denim, or you can thread baste each corner of the pocket placement)
Using silk pins, pin along sides and bottom of the pocket to topstitch in place along those sides. ⅛” from the folded edge of the
pocket. *Be sure to use back-tack or BARTACK (small/narrow zigzag that creates a reinforced tight overlap of your pocket
edge to join to the pant at the top opening)
Clean finish the full perimeter of your Back Pant leg (both left and right leg) with a zig-zag or serge stitch (on merrow
machine)
With right sides facing one another, sew the back rise of the Back Pant legs together as shown, ⅜” seam allowance:
Open to reveal your attached back pant legs, with tailor ham press seam allowances (from wrong side) towards the right as
show, followed by two rows of topstitching:
*After topstitching is completed, set your Back Pant aside, it is best to store these laying flat with right sides facing each other.
Take your Pocket Facing and zigzag or merrow the bottom edge as pictured below to both pieces (clean finish:)
Take your Pocket Bag (lining for pocket) and your Pocket facing and place on either piece as shown, topstitch ⅛” with an
elongated straight stitch as a ‘stay stitch:’
Placing Pocket Lining which is now attached to Pocket facing, right side down toward either FRONT pant leg as pictured, we
will pin in place as shown:
Stitch Along pocket opening ⅜” for either front pant leg:

Flip so you can see the right side of your Front Pant (*Optional add tiny coin
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from an existing pant and add ⅜” seam allowance to the perimeter, press back and topstitch to the desired pocket facing
location)
Seam allowance is so shallow I do not recommend clipping before you flip to do the topstitching, you can press from the right
side so you have a clean curve – in order to keep your pocket curve very clean before topstitching two rows:
For the bottom of the Pocket Bag we will do a FRENCH SEAM, sew wrong sides together with ⅛” seam allowance then we will
flip and sew the right sides together with ¼” seam allowance, repeat on both Front pant legs, and press:
⅛” stitch along bottom of Pocket Lining/Bag:
Tack in the highlighted areas as noted in the photo, then clean finish entire perimeter of Front Pant legs:
Before attaching the zipper, measure 1/2 “ distance front FIRST zipper tooth to RAW END of top of the zipper tape, trim at the
1/2 “ height.
The Wearer’s right side of Front Pant will not have ‘Shield’ extension, we will cut this away from ONLY the picture Front Pant
piece in the photo.
Attach zipper with the right side of the tape facing the right side of Front Pant fabric after pressing the fly back toward
the wrong side of the pant. The zipper will be sewn with 1/8” seam allowance from CF edge of pant FRONT RISE:
*Once the zipper is attached you will lay the FLY overtop and stitch ⅜” seam allowance as shown in the following steps:
This pattern piece is cut on the fold and will be attached to the wearer’s right side of the Pant Front as shown. To prepare the
Fly press with wrong sides together and clean finish the bottom curved edge indicated in the photo below, then we will pin and
sew where the dashed line is illustrated ⅜” seam allowance:
After you have attached the Fly to the Front Pant, clip ¼” to release the Fly so it can be pressed flat in the following photo:
Flip open to expose zipper and press:

Press and topstitch Front Pant area so it is nicely aligned with the zipper:
On the opposite Front Pant leg, PIN and hand baste the other side of the zipper so the tape is centered with that side of the CF
of the pant leg as shown. You will only catch the ‘Fly Shield Extension:’
*I highly recommend basting this in by HAND before attaching at the machine:

Below Zipper stopped at CF rise you will BASTE BY HAND both Front Pant crotch seams and topstitch ⅛” to attach:
Sew ‘J-curve’ two rows of topstitching to secure the zipper shield to the Front Pant wearer’s left side, be sure your topstitching
matches the direction of your back rise topstitching
Sew your inseam and do two rows of topstitching if desired
Sew your outseams ⅜” seam allowance
*Optional but suggested: Topstitch your outseam/side seams from the top edge (waist) of pant 6-½” deep to secure the
pocket and hip area stress point of jeans
Waistband:
Pin waistband in place so that right side of waistband is facing the right side of the pant – do not fully attach the entire
waistband as the opposite side will catch the raw edges of the waist seam as pictured (you can hand baste if you feel you
may need to make any fit adjustment)
*Optional: You can sandwich your belt loops in place at the indicated notches and attach those at the SAME time as attaching
your waistband
BELT LOOPS: PRESS INSIDE SEAM ALLOWANCES ALONG ⅜” INDICATION AND DO ROW OF TOPSTITCHING ON EITHER SIDE
⅛” FROM EDGES, IF DESIRED DO TOPSTITCH TO INDICATE THE ⅜” SEAM ALLOWANCE ON TOP AND BOTTOM AS A GUIDE
FOR WHERE TO FOLD WHEN ATTACHING
Sew right sides together lengthwise, and close either side of waistband with ⅜” seam allowance, clip your corners, flip and
press.
Press seam allowance of waistline up toward the waistband
Top Stitch full perimeter of the waistband to enclosed and attach to the full circumference of the waist.
Attach button closer, double-check with placement on the pattern piece, be sure the overlap is even and apply buttonhole to
wearer’s left side of the waistband
Hem at the desired length.
Bar tack in high-stress locations (like pockets) if desired.

BOYFRIEND JEANS CALAMINT PATTERN FALL FASHION HIGH WAISTED JEANS
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PANTS PATTERN SPRING FASHION STRAIGHT LEG SUMMER FASHION TRANSITIONAL PIECE VINTAGE INSPIRED
 23 comments 96     
SHAVONNE CRUZ
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DENIM TRENDS FOR SPRING/SUMMER ’21 THE SILVA TOP – FREE SEWING PATTERN
23 COMMENTS
IMAN REPLY
 April 30, 2021 at 12:36 pm
Thank you always for the lovely patterns! This step by step explanation is incredible! I greatly appreciate it!
YVONNE POST REPLY
 February 19, 2023 at 6:20 pm
Hi,
Can I sew this trousers out of 100% cotton cord fabric?
Yvonne
ELISABETH MOORE REPLY
 March 7, 2023 at 10:08 am
Hi Yvonne, yes you can! That would look great. 🙂

HELENE POLI REPLY
 May 1, 2021 at 12:38 am
It is great to refer to an illustrated step by step to fit the front zipper, it is such a difficult fastening to master!!
Thank you!
VICTORIA REPLY
 May 5, 2021 at 5:56 am
My goodness…. I can’t keep up. Every time I think about something I want to create and check your site, you
have just added the perfect pattern. These trousers are another one on the list ….
KATIE REPLY
 May 26, 2021 at 7:37 pm
I’m always intimidated by fitting pants, but this seems to be pretty good on the fit as is, yhe only issue
I’ve had is the waistband piece is WAY off. I triple checked the pattern before cutting the fabric and
now at this point in making my waist band is several inches short. All my seam allowances are good,
so it’s definitely the waistband pattern. I cut a new piece with an extra 4 inches and now it fits so be
forewarned if you’re working with the minimum fabric requirements. Also, where are the rest of the
tutorial pictures? Also, also, a sizing guide for pants on the tutorial would be better than the generic
one on every Mood sewing tutorial.
LUCIANA REPLY
 July 17, 2021 at 10:13 pm
Thanks for this!!! I thought I cut the wrong size pattern or that the size chart changed or
something since Mood patterns are always on the bigger side, but my waist band was really
short, good to hear that I wasn’t losing it and it was a pattern problem and not a mistake on
my part.
NICOLE REPLY
 September 1, 2021 at 6:26 am
I have just sewn the size 4/6 and the waistband was a perfect fit so that size is
okay.
Thank you Mood, I really like your zipper installation too.
KASE REPLY
 September 17, 2021 at 10:09 pm
Make a mock-up before you sew this pattern!!!!! the jeans ended up 10 inches too big. My tailoring skills were
definitely put to the test.
ANNE REPLY
 November 7, 2021 at 6:50 am
I love the design of these, and the instructions were very easy to follow, however I’m not entirely happy with
how my jeans turned out. The fit is great, but they are not high-waisted on me at all, the waistband just reaches
my belly button. I don’t know if that is because I’m tall (5’11”) or because I’m a size 20/22, but they definitely
don’t fit the way they are supposed to. Also as others already mentioned, the grading on the waistband is way
off. I had to sew in an extra panel to make it fit the pants.
TYEA JACKSON REPLY
 November 21, 2021 at 6:01 am
I would LOVE this pattern
ALY REPLY
 October 4, 2022 at 8:35 pm
This is a solid jean pattern.

But I do have a few comments:
– I used the size chart and determined I should be size 18, but the fit was not slouchy at all. Just a regular
straight-leg fit and it fit like a glove. I admit I initially had some concerns
– I had to raise it 2 inches in the front and 3 in the back for it to actually go up to my waist. As is, it’s more of a
midrise (low rise in the back if you have a lot of junk in the trunk as I do loool)
– despite reducing the waist size, the waist band fit pretty much perfectly, but it’s possible
I didn’t take enough off the fly allowances FREE SHIPPING DOMESTIC ORDERS $150+
– I think these instructions are missing pictures
Part of what i love about sewing is being able to customize!
Love these patterns as always
KIELLE REPLY
 February 11, 2023 at 11:29 am
What type of fabric did you use?
 February 13, 2023 at 10:43 am
Hi Kielle, we used this Bright Navy Cotton Denim Twill 🙂

RUTHIE WINDSONG REPLY
 April 24, 2023 at 2:36 pm
What is the fabric used in the photo instructions?
Hi Ruthie, unfortunately that fabric is no longer in stock. 🙁

HANNAH REPLY
 June 7, 2023 at 10:22 pm
I think there are some issues with the grading of this pattern. I originally mocked up the 16/18 size and found it
to be very small, despite my measurements falling well within that range. I mocked up the 20/22 size and was
apprehensive about the large jump in scale and that my measurements fell outside of the size. The mock up
was pretty good though so I went ahead and made the fashion fabric pair but they were enormous… I took in
an inch in each side seam, in the inseam and 1.5 inches in the seat and added darts in the back and they are
passably fitting now.
The seat on this pattern is extremely short. I’ve seen other makers have the same issue. If I make a second pair
(I had planned to and bought the fabric but don’t think I will now as it needs too much adjustment) I would add
3-4 inches in the back rise, and some to the front because as others have stated the pattern is not high rise as it
claims but more of a low-mid rise.
The rise is so low that the pockets are folding in and landing at the crease of my leg and butt. There is no room
above on my actual butt to move them too, so they will need to be removed in order to salvage this pair.
I think this pattern should be tested and refined more for larger size or curvy bodies to be more inclusive. For
example I am only an off the rack size 14 with measurements falling to the mood chart 16/18 had to make the
20/22 after mock up. With the 16/18 mock up being too small and the 20/22 much too large.
MOLLY REPLY
 July 1, 2023 at 5:01 am
Is the waistband a stitch in the ditch type thing or something else, I am struggling to understand the
instructions?
Hi Molly, yes I suggest the stitch in the ditch method of the waistband. 🙂
PARIS REPLY
 September 11, 2023 at 6:03 pm FREE SHIPPING DOMESTIC ORDERS $150+
Hi there
I was wondering if this pattern can also be used for men ?
Or will it look bad and girlish?
Can i use crepe fabric to make it?
Hi Paris, crepe could work! They would lack the structure though, but if that’s the look you want then I
say go for it! Definitely use some interfacing for the waistband though!
PARIS REPLY
Hi there i have a question

Can this pattern be used for men and with diffrent kind of fabric as well?
I want to make one for my brother ,what do you think?
Hi Paris, you’d need to do quite a few pattern adjustments in order for this to fit your brother. We
recommend finding a menswear pattern instead!
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FREE SHIPPING DOMESTIC ORDERS $150+

SHOP THIS LOO

THE CALAMINT JEANS – FREE SEWING PATTERN Navy Metal Zipp

Bright Navy Cott

FREE SEWING PATTER

Activewear & Athleisure Patterns

Dress Sewing Patterns

Menswear & Unisex Patterns

Outfit & Ensemble Patterns

Pants & Shorts Sewing Patterns

Shawl & Cardigan Patterns

Skirt Sewing Patterns

Swimsuit & Swimwear Sewing Patterns

Purchase Materials Used Below:

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

MORE WAYS TO BE A PART O

DOWNLOAD YOUR FREE PATTERN

SUBSCRIBE & DOWNLOAD

The Anthea Milkmaid Dress

The Liv Pants – Free Sewing

Fall into Fashion With The

The Linden Sleepwear Set –

The Elderberry Dress – Free

ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE ⅜” INCLUDED IN PATTERNS

*Seam allowance will point down toward pant leg

Preparing the pocket:

Stitch Along pocket opening ⅜” for either front pant leg:

⅛” stitch along bottom of Pocket Lining/Bag:

Flip open to expose zipper and press:

*I highly recommend basting this in by HAND before attaching at the machine:

Sew your inseam and do two rows of topstitching if desired

Sew your outseams ⅜” seam allowance

FOR WHERE TO FOLD WHEN ATTACHING

Press seam allowance of waistline up toward the waistband

Hem at the desired length.

Bar tack in high-stress locations (like pockets) if desired.

previous post next post

 April 30, 2021 at 12:36 pm

YVONNE POST REPLY

 February 19, 2023 at 6:20 pm

ELISABETH MOORE REPLY

 March 7, 2023 at 10:08 am

Hi Yvonne, yes you can! That would look great. 🙂

 May 1, 2021 at 12:38 am

 May 5, 2021 at 5:56 am

 May 26, 2021 at 7:37 pm

 July 17, 2021 at 10:13 pm

 September 1, 2021 at 6:26 am

 September 17, 2021 at 10:09 pm

 November 7, 2021 at 6:50 am

TYEA JACKSON REPLY

 November 21, 2021 at 6:01 am

I would LOVE this pattern

 October 4, 2022 at 8:35 pm

This is a solid jean pattern.

 February 11, 2023 at 11:29 am

What type of fabric did you use?

ELISABETH MOORE REPLY

 February 13, 2023 at 10:43 am

Hi Kielle, we used this Bright Navy Cotton Denim Twill 🙂

 April 24, 2023 at 2:36 pm

What is the fabric used in the photo instructions?

ELISABETH MOORE REPLY

 September 14, 2023 at 11:13 am