Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Begin the construction by gluing up the pieces for the top and the
shelf. While they are drying, make the pieces for the legs, the lower
braces, and the strips for the edging of the top. The upper portion of
the legs is of double thickness, ⁷⁄₈-in. stock being used throughout.
Fit the lower supporting framework together as shown in the bottom
view of the shelf, two of the braces extending across the bottom and
the others butting against them.
When the top and shelf are dry, brace the top with cleats screwed
on underneath, as shown in the bottom view of the top. Lay out the
shelf accurately, and shape it to a perfect octagon, 25 in. across from
opposite parallel sides. Make a strip, 1⁵⁄₈ in. wide, and use it in
marking the layout for the top, from the shelf as a pattern, the edges
of the top being parallel with those of the shelf and 1⁵⁄₈ in. from them.
Assemble the parts as shown, using glue and screws where
practicable, and properly set nails for places where the fastening will
be exposed. All the stock should be cleaned up thoroughly both
before and after assembling. Four pieces for the casters are
fastened to the legs with screws. The edging for the top may be
mitered, with a rounded corner, as shown in the detail, or butted
square against the edge of the top, as indicated in the photograph
and the plan of the top, the latter method being far easier.
¶The nuisance of tracking dust and ashes from the basement can be
overcome, to a considerable extent, by providing carpet mats on two
or three lower treads of the stairs leading from the basement to the
rooms above.
Folding Ironing Board Clamps on Edge of Table
or Window
This Rigid Ironing Board Folds Compactly and can be Set Up with Ease at
the Window Sill
An ironing board is usually most convenient for use when its left
end is set near a window, or other source of light. The arrangement
shown in the sketch was designed with this in mind, and other
interesting features were added. The top is of the usual type.
Arranged underneath it is a cross cleat near one end. Bolted through
this are two clamps which engage the edge of the window sill or
table. They are clamped by lowering the leg from its folded position,
underneath the top, as indicated. The bolts at the clamps are
adjustable for gripping various thicknesses of table tops, etc.,
between the clamps and the top. The lower end of the leg can be
fitted with a sliding adjustment, if the board is used at different
heights, the design being otherwise the same.—T. J. Hubbard,
Mendota, Ill.
Wire Trellis Fastened Neatly to Brick Walls
A desirable vine often has not the natural ability for clinging to
stone, and other walls, and a suitable aid must be provided to
support it. Fastening a wire trellis to such a wall is a good method.
Screw anchors are used, which fit into holes drilled for them and
expand under the pressure of the screw. Staples may also be used
in walls laid up in mortar. A ⁵⁄₁₆-in. screw anchor will hold an ordinary
fence staple, and requires a ⁷⁄₁₆-in. hole. After the staple has been
placed over the wire its ends are pinched together and driven into
the anchor socket. The staple is held firmly, and will support a
considerable load. First fasten the trellis of wire mesh to the wall, at
the top, very securely. A chalk line aids in setting the wire straight. If
carefully done, the trellis will be hardly noticeable, and the wall will
be unmarred.—C. L. Meller, Fargo, N. D.
A Homemade Fishing Float Adjustable to Depth
A novel device for fishing, especially with a short bait-casting rod,
is a float that can be adjusted to the depth of water in which it is
desired to fish. The float is hollow and slides on the line. To use it,
the casting lead and hooks are adjusted as usual, and a sliding knot
on the line is set for the depth desired, and the cast made. The float
will stop at the sliding knot, and remain on the surface. In reeling the
line, the knot passes freely through the guides, and the float slides
down on the line until it reaches the casting weight.
By Setting a Sliding Knot on the Line, as a Stop for the Float, the Depth at
Which the Sinker is Desired can be Easily Regulated
Cork is a good material from which to make the float. Cut the cork
in sections, as shown, and fit it over a large quill, which provides a
smooth-running hole through the float. Fit a small glass bead in the
upper end of the float, as a stop for the knot. The knot is of the
figure-eight type, and tied as shown in the detail at the left. It slides
easily, but grips the line tightly enough to stop the float. An ordinary
float can be altered for use as described.—Charles Carroll,
Baltimore, Maryland.
Adjustable and Pivoted Bed Table Attached to
Bedpost
This Handy Table Clamps on the Bedpost and can be Swung Aside
Conveniently, or Removed Altogether
A Boy can Make This Simple Electric Tractor in a Short Time, and will Get
Much Fun Out of It