Essentials of Contemporary

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 Grinding Writing and Lettering Pens
A fine or coarse writing or lettering pen can be produced quickly by
means of an oilstone. By rubbing it at the sides of the nibs, the pen is
made finer, and grinding across the ends makes it coarser. By
grasping the penholder in the normal writing position, and writing
lightly on the surface of the stone, the pen may be ground to the
style of the user, making it write more smoothly. If the pen scratches,
a slight touching up on the stone, which should be a fine hone, will
remedy the difficulty.
Pneumatic Door Check Made of Bicycle Pump
This Neat and Effective Door Check was Made of an Old Bicycle Pump and a
Strip of Iron, Shaped and Polished

A door was provided with a heavy coiled spring that caused it to

slam shut, and in order to overcome this nuisance, a check was
made from an old bicycle pump. The fittings being worked out neatly,
did not mar the appearance of the woodwork. Band iron, ¹⁄₈ by 1¹⁄₂
in., was used for the fittings. A clamp, as detailed, was made to hold
the end of the pump cylinder. A bracket, 5¹⁄₂ in. long, of similar iron
was fastened to the door, as shown, with screws, and the clamp
bolted to it. The end of the plunger was extended and bent at a right
angle, so as to pivot in a small angle bracket attached to the trim, as
shown in the front view. An air-release hole was provided, as
indicated, so that the air was freed from the cylinder gradually as the
door closed, thus preventing slamming.—P. P. Avery, Garfield, New
Jersey.
Convenient Tool Drawer under Chair Seat
 For the householder who does small repairing occasionally at
home, a sliding drawer under his working chair will be found a
convenience. The tools are always handy when he sits down to his
work, and he can put them away again without arising from the chair.
This arrangement is also useful in small shops where a chair or stool
is used for tinkering and light bench work.—James M. Kane,
Doylestown, Pa.
 Red Windows in Daylight Photographic
Workroom
Instead of the customary dark room, with the expense of red
incandescent lamps or the evil-smelling oil lamp, the photographer
who works during the day should have a red room, obtained by
means of a window with panes of red glass. The amateur can cover
the windows with red cloth, through which will penetrate a diffuse red
light of the desired quality. This is far superior to the common
practice of providing an opaque screen, blocking up the windows,
etc., and the screen can be made of red cloth instead of black cloth,
just as handily. Proper ventilation should, of course, be provided.—
Alfred J. Miller, Albuquerque, N. M.
 A Model Paper Monoplane That can be Steered

3 5 7
1
4 6 9
8
2 10

The Method of Folding the Paper is Indicated Clearly in the Diagram, Which
are to be Followed in the Order of Their Numbering, the Tail being Inserted
Separately

An interesting bit of paper construction is a small monoplane made

from a 7-in. square of paper, folded as indicated in the diagram and
provided with a paper tail. This little monoplane can be steered by
adjusting the tail, and even made to loop the loop in the varying air
currents. For the boy who enjoys experimenting with such a model
this little construction offers much instruction and entertainment, and
the grown-up who still has an interest in such things will also find it a
worth-while job.
 This Model Monoplane is Made of a Sheet of Paper, Seven Inches Square,
and can be Steered by Bending or Twisting the Tail

To make this model, fold a square of medium-weight paper on the

dotted lines, as indicated in Fig. 1 in the diagram. Then unfold the
sheet and refold it as in Fig. 2. Then bring the folded corners A and
B into position, as shown at A and B in Fig. 3. Fold the corners C
and D upward to the position C and D in Fig. 4. Fold corners G and
H to the corresponding letters in Fig. 5. Fold points J and K to the
corresponding letters in Fig. 6. Raise the points J and K, Fig. 6, and
fold them in so that the corners which were below them in Fig. 6 now
come above them, as at L and M in Fig. 7. Fold the corner N back
along the line OP, Fig. 8, so that the shape of the main portion of the
model is as shown in Fig. 9, at OP. Make the tail 1¹⁄₂ by 14 in. long,
as shown in Fig. 10, and paste it into position. This completes the
model, which can be steered by bending or twisting the tail.—George
H. Stipp.
 Roll-Film Spools Useful in Economizing Pencils
Now that everyone should economize, short lead pencils should
receive attention. A convenient lengthener is easily made by
removing the metal ends from used film-camera spools, the 3¹⁄₄-in.
length being the best size to use. The pencil is cut to fit the unslotted
end of the spindle tightly. An eraser may be fitted in the slotted end.
In a school quite a saving was made by collecting the short pencils
of the pupils and having them thus fitted up in the workshop.—A. T.
Moss, Napa, Calif.
 How to Use the Lawn Mower
Difficulty in the operation of a lawn mower is often caused by
failure to use the machine properly. A lawn mower cuts like scissors
except that one of the members is fixed. The cutters pass over the
cutting bar at an angle and thus shear off the grass. The machine
tends to throw the grass off to one side, usually toward the left;
hence the machine should not be permitted to throw the cut grass
back into the uncut patch. This may be prevented by passing around
the lawn so that the uncut grass is at the right of the operator.—W.
H. Kruse, Fort Wayne, Ind.
 Telegraph Recorder with Spool-and-Pencil
Indicator
A simple substitute for the somewhat complicated telegraph
recorders of the inking type may be constructed of materials readily
available to a boy. The instrument shown in the sketch was made in
a short time and with no special outlay. The base and the upright
support are of wood. The armature A was made of a strip cut from a
tin box, and folded to a length of 4 in.

The Telegraph Recorder was Made of Materials That may be Gathered Easily
by Boys

The recording device consists of a short piece of pencil, P, set in a

spool, S. The electromagnet M is fixed to the base, and the armature
A is actuated when current is permitted to pass through the magnet,
causing the recording pencil to move vertically. A strip of paper is
moved slowly under the pencil, and in order to make the record
regular a small channel-shaped guide of metal may be arranged
under the pencil.—William Warnecke, Jr., New York City.
 Campers’ Bait Cache

Angleworms for Fishing Bait may be Kept Satisfactorily in the Buried Box,
Covered with Sod
 Campers desiring a sure supply of angleworms for fishing will find
the bait cache shown in the sketch convenient and practical. A box,
about 18 in. long and 10 in. square on the end, is sunk into the
ground in a shady place, and all the bait dug by the campers on their
arrival is placed into it. The soil used to fill the box should be rich,
black loam, quite moist but not wet enough to be sticky. A few inches
of the top of the box is left unfilled and a double layer of green sod is
fitted over it, as shown in the sectional view at the right. The upper
sod is arranged level with the surface of the ground and should be
cut carefully so that it will not be observed by prowlers. If the region
where fishing is to be done is such that angleworms cannot be
obtained easily, it is best to dig them before starting for the camp.
The bait cache may then be made as a convenient place in which to
keep the bait in good condition for fishing.

¶After cleaning a shotgun, or a rifle, a cork large enough to be seen

readily should be placed in the end of the barrel to prevent rusting.
The cork should not be pressed into the end deeply as, if it is
forgotten and the firearm discharged without removing it, a
dangerous explosion may result.
 A Sail-Rigged Wind Motor
By E. R. HENDERSON

Ample power for driving light machines in a repair shop was obtained
by the use of a wind motor like that shown in the sketch and in
the detail drawings. The device has numerous other applications,
particularly as a substitute for wind motors that require a high tower,
as in the driving of a pump. As an interesting and inexpensive means
of providing power for a home or boy’s workshop, or as an
experimental device, the motor is also worth while making. The
materials used are easily obtainable, and the construction can be
carried out with ordinary tools, for the most part. The driving
connections may be obtained from old machine parts. The
dimensions given are for a motor of considerable size, and may, of
course, be reduced proportionately for a lighter machine. If the
device is made by boys, the framework and other parts should be
made one-half as large as the sizes indicated. The wood used
should then be three-fourths as thick as that shown. The roof of the
structure upon which the device is mounted must be well braced and
strong enough to stand the strain. The sails are headed toward the
wind, like those on a sailboat, when the motor is at rest, by means of
a control rod, F, shown in the working drawing.
 The Novel Wind Motor Developed Power for the Driving of Machines in a
Repair Shop, and can be Made in Various Sizes for Work or Play Purposes

The main structural portion is a vertical beam, or tower, tapered at

the ends and built up of 1 by 1-in. rods, strongly braced, especially in
the lower portion, as indicated. It is 14 ft. high, and built around an
18-in. square board, A, notched at the corners to receive the posts.
A similar 14-in. square, B, is built into the lower portion. The lower
end of the tower is pivoted on the ridge of the roof on a hollow shaft
made from a section of iron pipe, D, and provided with a metal
bearing washer, E. The pipe D is split at its upper end, as shown in
detail, and fastened to the wooden plate B. The control rod F passes
up through the pipe D, and is fixed to the control wires, reaching the
sails, by means of a leather strap, from which an iron swivel, C, is
suspended, as shown in the detail at the left. The ends of the strap
pass over pulleys, fixed to the lower side of the plate A, and connect
with the sail-control wires. Spiral wire springs are attached to the
wire connected to each end of the strap, as shown only at the right
sail beam, and aid in controlling the sails. These springs are
adjusted so that when the control rod is drawn down to its lowest
extent, the sails will be with the edge “into the wind,” thus
neutralizing each other, and causing the sail beam to be at rest.
 The Method of Construction is Shown in Detail: By Using the Perspective
Sketch in Connection with These Working Drawings, the Arrangement of the
Parts is Readily Understood

The sail beam extends 9 ft. out from the center of the tower, and is
built up of three pieces. The center section extends through the
tower, above the plate A, and the brace beam, which crosses it at
right angles, as shown in the perspective sketch, and also at the
detail of the strap arrangement. The center section is of 1 by 4-in.
stock, and the end portions are of 1 by 2-in. stuff, fastened securely,
as shown at detail G. The sails are supported on masts, 1 in. square,
pivoted at their junctions with the sail beam, as shown at detail G,
and in guy-wire plates at their extreme ends, as shown at detail J.
The fastening and bracing of the gaffs at the mast ends is also
shown at J.
The canvas sails are 4 by 4 ft., and mounted on the booms, gaffs,
and masts. The ends of the booms nearest the masts are weighted
with lead, as shown at detail G, and extend beyond the masts. The
outer ends of the booms are joined in pairs, and connect to the
spring and strap control. The guy wires N, of No. 18 wire, supporting
the masts are fixed to the ends of the sail beam and to the ends of
the brace beam, as shown in the sketch and the working drawing.
The fastening at the ends of the sail beam is made as shown at
detail H, which also shows one of the coil springs. All of the braces
for the masts should be fitted carefully, so as to have the proper
tension without interfering with the action of the sails, before the
tower is set into its place. The device should be tested on the
ground, with the pivot shaft set in a suitable support, before
attempting to mount it on a roof, or other structure. The support for
the bearing should be fitted into the roof, as shown. The power from
the shaft is transmitted to the bevel gears, and from them to the drive
shaft and the belted pulley.
The main tower is supported on the roof by means of strong guy
wires, set over four built-up guy towers of 1 by 1-in. wood, and 12 ft.
long, as shown in detail L. The towers must be set so that the sail
beam has proper play and be secured firmly to the roof. The top of
the main tower is fixed to the guy wires by means of a guy plate
shown in detail K. A plan of the arrangement of the sail beam, brace
beam, and sail booms is shown at detail M. The sail beam is braced
by No. 12 guy wires, O, attached at the top of the main tower, at the
junction of the two sections of the beam, and similarly at the bottom
of the main tower. The fastenings of the wires and braces should be
made carefully, and they should be examined thoroughly both before
and after the device is mounted in place. Grease the pivoted and
other moving parts, and start the device slowly, bringing the sails into
the wind as required for the desired speed.