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 The Stove Takes the Place of an Electric Stove Where There is Only a Gas
Supply

A piece of sheet metal, B, is cut to fit the space between the wires,
allowing projections at the upper and lower outside edges for
bending around the upright twisted wires. The entire stove can be
nickelplated if desired. It can be used in the same manner as an
electric stove and for the same purposes where a home is supplied
only with gas.—Contributed by E. L. Douthett, Kansas City, Mo.
 Castings without Patterns
The sketch shows a method of making small castings that I have
used for several years and the castings so produced are strong and
very durable, almost equal to the ordinary casting. The idea may be
of considerable value to inventors and home mechanics.

A Mold Made in Plaster without a Special Pattern and Run with a Soft Metal

The mold is of plaster of Paris, held in a wood frame or box, and

all that is required in the way of a pattern is a plain block or anything
that will produce an impression of the general outline of the casting,
as shown in the sketch. After the impression is made the mold
should be dusted thoroughly with black lead. The journal bearings
are then located, holes drilled in the hardened plaster and wood pins
set as shown. These pins must be of hard wood and of a diameter to
suit the finished size of the bore. Brass tubing of a suitable size is cut
off to the length required and placed on the wood pins. These pieces
of tubing will be the brass bushings in the finished castings. Babbitt
metal is melted and poured into the mold. Before pouring the metal it
is well to be sure that the plaster is thoroughly dry.
The mold is as shown, and the upper side of the metal is at all
times exposed to the air. This makes it necessary to have all core
prints on the under side, as this side will be the one in view when the
casting is finished, and the upper side, as the casting lies in the
mold, will be the inside or unexposed side. In case of curved work,
reinforcing strips of sheet brass should be placed in the mold and
imbedded in the casting, as shown in the sketch by the dotted lines.
A little practice will enable anyone to produce very neat cored
castings. and when the brass bushings are fitted to size and faced
off, and the casting painted, a piece will be produced that will
compare in finish and general usefulness with anything of the nature
that could be bought. Do not treat the brass tubes with soldering flux
unless necessary, for they should be removable so that they can be
replaced when worn.—Contributed by J. B. Murphy, Plainfield, N. J.
 A Developing-Paper Printer
Having a rush order for a large quantity of post cards, I was
compelled to adopt some way of making the prints quickly. As I was
in a place where a printer could not be secured for several weeks, I
set about making one, with good results, as shown in the
illustrations.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2

Fig. 3 Fig. 4

Parts for Making the Switch So That It will Operate Automatically as the
Cover is Moved

I first secured an ordinary soap box and took it apart, being careful
to keep the boards whole, then rebuilt it to make a box with ends
measuring 12 in. square, and 14 in. in length. In one end I cut a large
hole to admit a 60-watt tungsten globe, then, taking another board, I
fitted a knob and hinges to it and used it for a door. The other end of
the box was centered and a hole bored large enough to admit an
ordinary socket. Another hole was bored, 4 in. to the right, for
another socket. A much heavier material was used for the lid than for
the box, being at least ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. A piece of double-strength, clear
glass, 8 by 10 in. in size, was procured and set in a hole cut in the
cover so that its upper surface would be flush.

The Printer may be Set in the Table Top or Used Separately, as Desired

An ordinary single-pole switch was secured, as shown in Fig. 1,

also a small mousetrap, as shown in Fig. 2. The front part of the trap
was sawed off so that only the spring was utilized. The base of the
trap was then cut out to fit snugly on the base of the switch, into
which two corresponding holes were bored for the screws. The next
thing was to secure several clips, which were cut from sheet brass,
to operate the switch, and a lever to control the switch, as shown in
Fig. 3. The lever is 1 in. wide and 4 in. long, having a slot at the
bottom, to slip easily over the lever handle in the switch, and a hole,
drilled 1 in. above the slot, to admit a nail to keep the spring from
throwing it out of position. The clips for holding the films, or plates,
are shown in Fig. 4.

Side View of the Printer, Showing Parts Assembled and the Main Line
Connections to the Globes

After securing a double socket, of which there are many types, a

few yards of lamp cord, a piece of felt, 6 by 8 in. in size, and two
ordinary lamp sockets, I was ready to assemble the printer. The
switch was then placed on a board of the same width, the spring of
the trap placed on top of it and then fastened with screws. This
board was then cut off the length of the inside of the box and
fastened in place, with the switch and trap spring on top.
The ruby light A burns all the time, acting as a pilot in placing the
negative. When the cover B is lowered, after placing the paper, the
felt pad on the under side holding it secure, the projecting arm C
comes in contact with the switch lever D and makes the connection
to the tungsten light E. After the proper time for the exposure has
been given the cover is raised and by this action the tungsten light is
automatically shut off, leaving only the red light burning. With a 60-
watt lamp I secure a print in about 3 seconds, which is fast enough.
Of course, by using a larger lamp, the time could be reduced to a
second or more, according to the size. The time given was obtained
by experience in using ordinary brands of papers.—Contributed by
Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.
Transposing Temperature Readings
 The Readings can be Transposed from Fahrenheit to
Centigrade or Vice Versa Instantly by the Use of This Scale
 It is often necessary for the amateur scientist to transpose a
temperature reading from the Fahrenheit to the centigrade scale, or
vice versa. This is easily accomplished by means of the diagram
without the use of a formula. The centigrade readings are given on
the horizontal axis and the Fahrenheit readings on the vertical axis.
The temperature readings are the same at minus 40 deg. and from
that point on the Fahrenheit readings equal nine-fifths of the
centigrade plus 32. This reading is instantly seen by the scale.—
Contributed by James F. Boyd, Ann Arbor, Mich.
 Protecting Plans in a Shop
The magazines I used in the shop, for making a few things from
plans, became so soiled that they were unfit for the library. I now
keep them clean by using a covering made of an old picture frame
from which the back was removed and a plain glass inserted in its
place. This is placed over the magazine or other plans on the bench
and keeps them clean, dustless, open and flat.—Contributed by H. J.
Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.
 Homemade Eyebolts

Many times one has use for an eyebolt when there is none at
hand. Eyebolts of almost any size can be quickly made of a spring
cotter. Simply thread the end, as shown, and use a nut and washer.
—Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
 To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning Dark
Tan-shoe polishes seem to rub the dirt into the leather and to
darken it in a short time. Tan shoes can be kept clean and well
polished without losing their original bright tan color if treated in the
following simple manner. Instead of using tan polish on a new pair of
shoes, dampen the end of a soft clean cloth, and rub a small portion
of the leather at a time with the moist end and then rub briskly with
the dry end. In this way tan shoes can be kept clean and nicely
polished like new.—Contributed by John V. Voorhis, Ocean Grove,
N. J.
 A Finger-Trap Trick
It is easy to fool one’s friends with the little joker made to trap a
finger. It consists of a piece of paper, about 6 in. wide and 12 in. or
more long. To prepare the paper, cut two slots in one end, as shown,
and then roll it up to tube form, beginning at the end with the cuts,
then fasten the end with glue. The inside diameter should be about
¹⁄₂ inch.
 It is Easy to Insert a Finger in the Tube, but to Get It Out is Almost
Impossible

When the glue is dry, ask some one to push a finger into either
end. This will be easy enough to do, but to remove the finger is a
different matter. The end coils tend to pull out and hold the finger. If
the tube is made of tough paper, it will stand considerable pull.—
Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.

¶When mercury is spilled it can be picked up with a medicine

dropper.
 Homemade Roller Skates

Wheels Fitted into the Ends of a Long Board, to Make a Roller Skate

The long wheel base of the roller skate illustrated makes it quite
safe and will prevent falls. The construction of these skates is
simple, the frame being made of a board, 2 ft. long, 3 in. wide and 1
in. thick. Holes are mortised through the ends to admit the wheels. A
small block, cut out on one side to fit the heel of the shoe, is securely
fastened centrally, for width, and just in front of the rear wheel on the
board. Two leather straps are fastened to one side of each board, to
fasten the skate onto the shoe. The wheels can be turned from hard
wood, or small metal wheels may be purchased, as desired. The
axle for the wheels consists of a bolt run through a hole bored in the
edge of the board centrally with the mortise.—Contributed by Walter
Veene, San Diego, Cal.
¶The screw collar of a vise should be oiled at least once a month.
 How to Make a High Stool

The cast-off handles of four old brooms, three pieces of board, cut
as shown, and a few screws will make a substantial high stool. The
legs should be placed in the holes, as shown at A, and secured with
screws turned through the edge of the board into the legs in the
holes. The seat B should be fastened over this and the legs braced