Tunisian Pattern Crochet Book - Passionate and Amazing Ideas - Various - 2021 - Independently Published - Anna's Archive

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in 2023 with funding from
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https://archive.org/details/tunisianpatterncOO0O0mrph
Tunisian Pattern
Crochet Book
Passtonate and Amazing Ideas To Crochet Tunisian
Copyright © 2021
All rights reserved.
DEDICATION
The author and publisher have provided this e-book to you for your
personal use only. You may not make this e-book publicly available in any
way. Copyright infringement is against the law. If you believe the copy of
this e-book you are reading infringes on the author's copyright, please
notify the publisher at: https://us.macmillan.com/piracy
Tunisian Pattern Crochet Book
Contents
Apple Pothole ny..ic,-stesse--<<ths
otus optus oditnsalsin Gignessss snsaxeuvaasnane 1
Bobble Heart Crochet Potholder .........:cccsscossacrecacnnssesuveoneae 5
Tunisian Crochet SR awh is. caresnacaccencestpanes dsaneceeunersan ater 14
Tunisian Crochet (U-Siirtt-c:s..v-seveccceeeseecareres

coo een ere 18
Slip Stitch Clutch Purse With Tunisian Crochet Detail ....26
The.Periect Beginner Headband s.1.1---3

acest eee 35
Simple Starlight Tunisian Crochet Shrug... eeseeeeeee 41
Tunisian Crochet Pointy Pom Pom Hat
Mini trinisiat: Crochet Hold Alias. ee 66

Apple Potholder
MATERIALS:
You'll need at least two colors, an off white for the apple's flesh and a
apple sort of color for the skin. Having a little bit of other colors for
the seeds and leaf are a good idea. Potholders are best made with
cotton yarn because acrylic yarn will melt with heat. You'll also need
a G or H hook. This is crocheted amigurumi style.
Plesh
off-white
magic ring (or ch4 ss in first ch to form loop)
PATTERN:
Rnd: 6sc in loop
Rnd2: 2sc in each sc (12sc)
Rnd3-4: 1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, repeat around
Rnd5: sc, hdc, 2dc in next sc, 2hdc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, hdc,
2de in next sc, hdc, sc, then repeat the same pattern backwards (in
other words sc, hdc, 2de in next sc, hdc, sc in next 6 sc, 2hdc in next
sc, 2dc in next sc, hdc, sc)
Rnd6: sc, hdc, 2dce in next 2 stitches, de in next 4 stitches, hdc in
next 3 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, hdc, 2dc in next stitch, hdc, sc,
then repeat backwards
Rnd7: sc, hdc, 2de in next 3 stitches, (de, 2de in next stitch) twice, de
in next 2 stitches, hdc in next 3 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, hdc,
3de, hdc, sc, then repeat backwards
Rnd8: sc, hdc, de, 2de in next 2 stitches, de in next 2 stitches, 2dc in
next 2 stitches, de in next 3 stitches, 2dc, dc, 2dc. de in next 8
stitches, 2dc in next 2 stitches, hdc, sc, then repeat backwards
Rnd9: sc in next 2 stitches, hdc, de in next 4 stitches, 2dc in next 2

a—
stitches, dc in next 10 stitches, hdc in next 10 stitches, 3dc, hde in
next 3 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, then repeat backwards
Rnd10: sc in next 3 stitches, hdc in next 2 stitches, dc in next 2
stitches, 2dc in next 2 stitches, (dc, 2dc in next stitch)3 times, de in
next 4 stitches, hdc in next 4 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, hdc in
next 4 stitches, de in next 6 stitches, 2dc in next 2 stitches, hdc, sc,
then repeat backwards
ss and finish off
Seeds
With black or brown sc around the posts a stitch near the middle (1
suggest round 4) sc around the next post, finish off, then repeat for
the other side.
skin
(red, yellow or green)
Do the pattern for the flesh, only on round 10 don't ss and finish off.
Instead, match it with the off-white and sc around through both
pieces, then ss and finish.
Stem/leaf
With brown or green and skin side facing you, attach with a ss in last
sc of skin. Chain 7 loosely, skip one then sc back down. This is the
stem. Ss in next sc. Chain 14 then ss in sc to make a loop. Now,
going back along the chain loop, (sc hde de dte de hde sc) ch 2, ss in
second chain, then work the group back down. This is the leaf. Ss in
stem and finish off.
Apple will look wrinkled, but it'll flatten. Get it slightly damp and dry
it under a heavy pot to speed up the process if you wish.
To make a smaller apple, just reduce the number of rounds. Round 8

is a pretty good place to end off early,
Bobble Heart Crochet Potholder
MATERIALS:
H-5.0mm and I-5.5mm crochet hooks
2 colors of worsted weight cotton yarn (I used Sugar’n Cream in Hot

Pink and Yellow)
Scissors
Tapestry needle
PATTERN:
Begin by chaining 28, using your I hook.

Row 1: Switch to your H hook. Skip the first chain (ch), single
crochet (sc) in the second chain from the hook and se across (27
stitches). Don’t worry if it’s a little curly, it will flatten out as you add
more rows.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. sc, *bobble, sc* (repeat * 13 times). There

6
should be 13 bobble stitches, and 27 total stitches.
To make each bobble, yarn over and put your hook through both
loops of the stitch you’re building on. Yarn over again and pull
through, as if you’re starting a double crochet. Yarn over again and
pull through the first two loops on your hook, leaving two loops on
your hook. Basically, you want to crochet 2/3 of a double crochet
stitch. Repeat this process (the 2/3 double crochet) four more times
in the same stitch. You should now have six loops on your hook, and
five partial double crochets (the 6th loop 1s connected to the previous
stitch). Yarn over again and pull all six of the loops through. Chain 1
to finish.
If you need help crocheting the bobble stitch, check out my step-by-
step photo-tutorial or video:

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. sc across (27 stitches).
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, 23 sc, bobble, sc (27 stitches).
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc, bobble, sc 11,
bobble, sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc (27 stitches).
Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. se across (27 stitches).
Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc, bobble, se 5,
[color 2] bobble, [color 1] sc 5, bobble, sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc

(27 stitches).
Note: I usually start carrying my second color (pink, in this case) 2-3
stitches early and drop it 2-3 stitches late. I leave a 3-4 inch tail and
just trim it off, rather than continuing to carry the second color.
Toward the bottom of this post you can see what the back of my
potholder looks like before the ends are weaved in.
Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. sce 11, [color2] ‘sc 5, [color 1] sc 11 (27

stitches),
Row 10: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, se 8, [color 2] sc, *bobble, sc*
(repeat * 3 times), [color 1] sc 8, bobble, sc (27 stitches).

Row 11: Ch 1 and turn. se 9, [color 2] se 9, [color 1] sc 9 (27 stitches).
Row 12: Ch f and turn. sc, bobble, sc 6, [color 2] sc *bobble, sc*
Row 13: Ch 1 and turn. sc 7, [color 2] sc 13, [color 1] sc 7 (27

stitches).
Row 14: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 4, [color 2] sc *bobble, sc*
Row 15: Ch 1 and-turn: sé6; [color 2) "se" 15° [color 1]-se 6 (27
| stitches).
Row 16: Repeat Row 14.
Row 17: Ch 1 and turn. se 7, [color 2] sc 6, [color 1] sc 1, [color 2] sc
9
6, [color 1] sc 7 (27 stitches).
Row 18: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 6, [color 2] sc, bobble, sc,
bobble, [color 1] se 3, [color 2] bobble, sc, bobble, sc, [color 1] sc 6,
bobble, sc (27 stitches).
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Row 20: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc 15, bobble, se 3, |
bobble, se (27 stitches).
10
Row 22: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 23, bobble, sc (27 stitches).
Row 24: Ch 1 and turn. sc, *bobble, sc* (repeat * 13 times), There
should be 13 bobble stitches, and 27 total stitches.
**Don’t trim yarn — you will use this color to crochet the first
border row**
Back:
With color 2 — ch 28, using your I (5.5 mm) hook.
Row 1: Switch to your H (5.0 mm) hook. Skipping the first chain
(ch), single crochet (sc) in the second chain from the hook and sc
across (27 stitches).
Rows 2 — 30: Repeat Row 1.

Ready for the home stretch? The edging!
This is that pretty border and little loop to hang your potholder from
cabinet knobs and oven handles.
Edging:o
Row 1: After finishing Row 25 of the potholder body, ch 1. Lay the

back piece onto the potholder and align the edges. Begin crocheting
down the side of the potholder [color 1], joining the back and front
pieces. Work 30 se into the side, plus 2 extra se in corner, sc 27, 2
extra sc in corner, sc 30, 2 extra sc in corner, sc 27, 2 extra sc in
1-
corner. Connect to first sc with a slip stitch. Trim and weave in ends.
Row 2: Attach color 2 at any point, sc until you reach a corner, sc 1,

ch 15, se 2, continue sc all the way around (with 3 sc in each corner).
Join to first sc with slip stitch. Trim and weave in ends.
13
Tunisian Crochet Shawl
MATERIALS:
GypsyKnits BFL Superwash Wool Fingering weight, appx 385 yds
J Tunisian (afghan) hook
Tapestry needle
Gauge: not especially important.
Abbreviations:
tds = Tunisian double stitch (y/o, insert hk, draw up Ip, y/o, draw
through 2 Ips)
y/o = yarn over (increase made)

Ip = loop
hk = hook
Sp = space
st = stitch
ch = chain
Notes:
*Ch 1 at the beginning of each row, counts as a tds.
All return rows are as normal: y/o, pull through 1 loop, then y/o
and pull through 2 loops for remainder of row.
*Yarn-overs, and the spaces created by them, count as stitches and

should be worked accordingly.
eAll stitches are created knitwise, meaning the hook is inserted from
front to back, through the fabric.
*The fabric will not appear to be perfectly semi-circular. However, a

good blocking will remedy the situation regardless of the fiber
content used.
PATTERN:
**Read Notes first!**
Ch 10
Row 1: With 1 Ip on hk, *y/o, pull up next loop*. Repeat from * to *

to end of row.
Row 2: With 1 Ip on hk, tde in y/o sp, *y/o, tde in next st and y/o sp
*, Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 3: With 1 Ip on hk, tde in next st and y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next 2
st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4: With 1 Ip on hk, tde in next 2 st and y/o sp, *y/o, tde in next
3 st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Rows 5 — to desired size: continue increasing each section by tde in

each tdc, as well as each y/o sp.
Trim/Bind Off Row:
Ch 10, sc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), ch 2, sk 3 st, de
next st. *De next st, ch 7, sc in 5th ch from hook, sk 3 st, de next st.*
Repeat from * to * to end of row. In the event that you are short or
over | extra st, just sk 2 st for last trim section, or sk 2 for the last 2
sections, to even it out.
Finishing:
Block the shawl, regardless of the material used, to beat the sway into
submission. Check out the pics here on the blocking board, and after.
Blocking matters!
17
Tunisian Crochet T-Shirt
MATERIALS:
250-950 yards of yarn of your choice. Recommended: worsted weight

cotton,
Tunisian crochet hook with a cable of your choice
A crochet hook sized larger than your Tunisian hook
Measuring and sewing notions
Optional beads or buttons
SPECIAL STITCHES
Standard Return Pass (stp): Ch 1, yo, pull through 2 across until 1 Ip
18
rem on hook.
Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yoss): Yo, insert hook into st, pull up a Ip, pull
it through both Ips on hook,
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Sweater is worked flat from the bottom up, then the pieces are
seamed together with the sleeves, trim, collar and embellishments

added last.
When measuring your starting chain, do NOT pull or stretch your

chain in any way. Just lay it flat.
Follow the measurements for the size you want using the chart
below.
PATTERN
Front Panel
Make a ch that measures your Starting Width measurement. Make a

note of how many chs this requires so you can replicate it exactly for
Back Panel.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, pick up a Ip in each
19
ch across.
After every row, you will be doing a srp.
Row 2: *T ss, tps; rep from * across.
Row 3: The across.
Rep Row 3 until Front Panel reaches Front Panel Length

measurement. Do NOT fasten off.
Right Shoulder (right side of panel facing you)
Row 1: The until you’ve reached your Shoulder Width measurement
leaving the rest of the sts unworked. Make note of how many Ips you
worked so you can replicate them exactly for your left shoulder.
Rep Row 1 until just the shoulder flap measures 1” high.
Last Row: Tho.
Left Shoulder (right side of panel facing you)
From the left side of panel, count back an identical number of

stitches that matches your Right Shoulder and pull up a Ip.
Row 1: The across.
20
After every row, you will be doing a stp.
Rep Row 1 until just the shoulder flap measures 1” high.
Last Row: Tbo.
Note: You will notice that the stitches in the center of your front
panel have not been properly bound off. That is nothing to worry
about. You will bind them off when you add your neck trim.
Back Panel
Make a ch that is the same length you made for your Front Panel.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, pick up a Ip in each

ch across.
Row 2: Tks across.
Rep Row 2 until panel reaches Back Panel Length measurement.
Last Row: Tbo.
Seaming
With RS of your Front Panel and Back Panel facing each other, seam
the sides and tops as follows:
Step one: From the bottom of each side upward until your Armhole
Depth measurement remains.
Armhole Depth Measurements:
2T = 4.25in
AT = 4.75in
6T = 51n
8T= 5.51n
10T=6in
Step two: From the top edge of each side inward.
See diagram below. Once seamed, turn garment right side out.
Arm Trim (make 2)
Using a hook that ts at least 1 full hook size larger than your Tunisian
hook, attach yarn to armpit area of your garment. Be sure to mark the
first st of every rnd.
Rnd 1: Yoss evenly around your armhole, join with sl st. Ch 1, turn.
Rnd 2: Working in the BLO, yoss around, join with sl st. Ch 1, turn.
Rep Rnd 2 until Arm Trim is about 1-1.5” long.
#39:
Fasten off.
Neck Trim
Using the same hook you used to make your arm trim, attach yarn to
back of your neckline. Be sure to mark the first st of every rnd.
Rnd 1: With a loose tension, yoss evenly around your neckline. When
you get to the part of your Front Panel that was never finished off,
drop down and yoss in the tbo style, join rnd with sl st. Ch 1, turn.
Rnd 2: With a loose tension and working in the BLO, yoss around,
join with sl st.
Fasten off.
Bottom Trim
With the same hook you’ve been using for your arm/neck trim,
attach yarn to any st along the bottom of your garment. Be sure to
mark the first st of every rnd. Hint: I like to attach near one of the
side seams.
Rnd 1: Sc in each st around, join with sl st. Ch 1, turn.
Rnd 2: Working in the BLO, yoss around, join with sl st. Ch 1, turn.
Rep Rnd 2 until Trim is 1-1.5” long or until desired size.
23
Note: If you do NOT want tassels, fasten off. If you DO want
tassels, do NOT fasten off. Instead proceed to the “Tassels’ portion
of this patt.
Adding ‘Tassels
Row 1: *Working in BLO, ch 3, sk 2, Yoss 4-5 times (about 1” worth
of sts); rep from * around; join with sl st.
Fasten off.
Attach Tassels to ch-3 sps using method of your choice.
Embellishments
Stem
Make a ch the desired length of your flower stem.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch across.
Fasten off.
Flower
Start with a magic circle. Alternatively, you can ch 3 and join to first
ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: *Sc, 2 de, sc, sl st; rep from * 4 more times for a total of 5
24
petals.
Fasten off.
After flowers are sewn onto the garment, you can sew beads or
buttons to act as the ‘center’ of each flower, if desired.
Leaf
Ch 6.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, de 2. Place 4 de in
the last ch. Now you will turn and work your way across the opposite
side of the chs: de 2, hdc, sc, picot. Join with a sl st to the Ist sc. FO.
Finishing
Weave in any loose ends.
Sew on any embellishments, beads, and/or buttons.
25
Slip Stitch Clutch Purse With

Tunisian Crochet Detail
MATERIALS:
Yarn obviously, 3 colors © Cotton, viscose, or linen, anv will work.
Approx 60 grams of beige yarn, and about 15 grams of each green

and red/pink yarn.
3mm hook, or use a bigger size if you usually crochet tightly, since it’s
quite difficult to slip stitch in tight stitches.
Scissors, yarn needle
26
Key ring is optional, you may join the big strawberry with a chain or
any other way you like.
Zipper or any other method you like to close the bag.
PATTERN:
In cream yarn, chain a multiple of 4 + 3. For example, chain 55

(4x13 + 3).
Row 1 : single crochet all along.
Row 2 and following: slip stitch in front loop only.
This my article on the slip stitch for any further information.

When you reach desired height (I did 9 cm / 3.5 inches), fasten off
beige.
Change to red yarn, make 1 row of slip stitch in the front loop only.
Fasten off.
Change to green yarn, make 1 row of single crochet in the front loop
only. Don’t fasten off.
How to do the strawberry row:
In green: Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet), make 2 DCs.
28
In red:
Important, read beforehand: to make the first strawberry, start

with a standing DC in red yarn. Click here for a full tutorial on the
standing DC on the Moogly Blog. (external link. please come
back after )
For all other strawberries, yarn over twice to make the first DC,
the other 4 DCs are normal.
In any case, you will keep a green loop unworked on your hook.
Make 5 DC in next stitch. With green yarn, yarn over and pull
through the 2 loops on your hook (one red, one green). You’ve just
made a red bobble.
apprendre point fraise au crochet
5 DC are done. With green yarn, yarn over and pull through both
loops.
With green yarn: insert hook between each red DCs, in the vertical
slits (see 4 pictures below)
29
e (DS EPR RER REP EO

asses
OPAPP PS IPA ee
CLP LE EPPIP IO Sse «

EE #3
- a BD hk me >> ws x eeyy
Do a total of4 single crochet together.
Tighten both green and red yarn.
30
With green, DC in the next 3 stitches. (beware: the first one may be
hidden by the strawberry).
a!
Zé
_ > & ee oe
= v
ee = ar ~ + + <
|
re eS
SS Sees
i “ KEW se a
as
& ” em * oD
“ h 23% LOR AD PD,
O&M OE S RE ES SS
s* tone a c ae aw
i" . ~ < PP * & # yt hy 4 5.2%." 4
Keep going until end of row : one strawberry, 3 green DCs...
Wrong side:
32
ee : ee bee
**le ae A a ee ter me
As you can see, I just let my unworked yarn run behind, I don’t hide
it in the stitches, since I will line the clutch, that won’t be visible.
That way, I don’t even have to handle holding 2 strands at a time.
Then:
Do one row of green slip stitches.
One row of ted slip stitches in the front loop only.
One row of beige HDC.
One row of beige shells.

33
Shells: SC in the first stitch of the row. * Skip 3. Make 6 DCs in next
stitch. Skip 3 stitches, make one SC in next stitch. * Repeat until the
end of row. To adjust the shells to the width of the clutch, I had to
cheat a little bit: I skipped only 2 stitches twice, it doesn’t show.
First panel is done, make another identical one.
Hide every yarn ends.
34
The Perfect Beginner Headband
MATERIALS:
1 skein of worsted weight yarn (we used Cloudborn Superwash

Highland Worsted in Evergreen)
8.0mm Tunisian crochet hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Flexible measuring tape
Pro Tip
This headband is really easy to customize. Make your starting chain

longer or shorter to change the width, and crochet to whatever length
35
you need to fit.
PATTERN:
1. Make Your Starting Chain
Chain 18 stitches (or the number of stitches you need for your
desired width).
2. Work the Foundation Row
The foundation row is the equivalent of the cast-on in knitting. As
with all Tunisian crochet, it's made up of a forward pass and and
return pass. Need a refresher? Head here .
3. Crochet Tunisian Simple Stitch
This headband is crocheted entirely using the Tunisian simple stitch .

al
It makes a stiff, dense fabric — just the thing to keep ears protected
from howling winter winds.
Continue working until the headband is the right length for your
noggin (or whomever you're making it for!). For an adult female, |
made mine about 19-1/2" long.
Pro Tip
Make your your finished length about an inch shorter than your
actual head measurement so the headband stays put.
4. Bind Off
When you've reached the length you need, bind off your stitches with
a slip stitch bind-off. Cut the yarn, and leave a tail about 2 feet long.
38
5. Seam the Ends
Bring the two short ends of the headband together and use your tail
to sew them closed with a whip stitch.
Using the same tail, thread your needle through the seam, weaving it
in and out. Pull tight to cinch your seam and give the headband a
bow shape.
39
6. Hide the Seam
Remove the darning needle from your yarn tail and start wrapping
the yarn around your cinched seam. Keep wrapping, hiding your
seam as you do, When your out of yarn, weave in your end, and that's
it!
40
Simple Starlight Tunisian Crochet
MATERIALS:
8-9 balls of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Starlight*

(140¢/50z, 92yds/84m, 6 Super Bulky)
ChiaoGoo 24-in Flexible Tunisian Hook, Q/15.75mm*
Clover USA crochet hook, N-15/10.00mm*
scissors
embroidery needle
stitch marker
ABBREVIATIONS
s] st — slip stitch
ch — chain stitch
hde — half double crochet
hde2tog — decrease of two half double crochet stitch: Yarn over.

Insert hook into extra front loop of first stitch. Without yarning over,
insert hook into extra front loop of second stitch. Yarn over, pull
through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining loops
on hook.
PATTERN NOTES
Gauge = 6 stitches, 7 rows in 4X4 inches
Length is 31" without collar. Width is 37" from armhole to armhole.
This pattern uses the Tunisian Crochet Knit Stitch. Each row listed is
one set of working a forward row and a return row.
The rows of the collar do not exactly match up after working around
the body of the sweater. The last slip stitch of Row 90 is actually
worked into the same stitch as Row | — yup, you’ll need to double up
42
there. The reason is that you need to create an extra row that closes
the gap between rows. Since this is on the bottom back of the
sweater, a little fudging won’t be as noticeable either.
Once all the rows of the collar are made, you'll need to join the last
row with the first row. I joined using slip stitches on the wrong side
of the collar. You also have the option of fastening off Row 91 with a
long tail and join using a mattress stitch.
SIZING
The number of chains you start with is the length of your garment,
from your neckline down. The number of rows you work ts the width
of your garment, and determines how far down your arms the shrug
will drape. Remember that the weight of the yarn will drag it lower
than you think.
Simple Starlight Shrug
PATTERN:
Chain 45.
Row 1a: Starting with the second chain from hook, work your hook
into the back hump of each chain, keeping each loop on the hook. At
the end of this forward row, you will have 45 loops on your hook.
43
Row 1b: Yarn over, pull up one loop onto your hook. *Yarn over,
pull through 2 loops on hook.* Repeat from * until you have one
loop left on the hook.
Row 2a: Insert hook behind the first vertical post, as shown below.
Pull up a loop. Continue to insert hook behind each of the next 43
vertical posts, pulling up a loop onto your hook. At the end of the
row, insert your hook into the chain stitch, as shown below. You
should have 45 loops on your hook.
Row 2b: Yarn over, pull up one loop onto your hook. *Yarn over,
pull through 2 loops on hook.* Repeat from * until you have one
loop left on the hook.
Rows 3-69: Repeat Row 2a forward row + Row 2b return row.
Row 70: Insert hook behind the first vertical post and complete a slip
stitch. Continue to insert hook behind each of the next 43 vertical
posts, pulling up a loop and completing a slip stitch. At the end of
the row, insert your hook into the chain stitch, pull up a loop,
complete a slip stitch. You should have one loop on your hook. Cut
yarn and fasten off.
ARM HOLES
Turn the body of the sweater so that the curls are on the sides.
44
Fold the corners of the body piece into the center. Use slip stitches
to join the arm edges together, working through all 4 loops (2 loops
on each edge) of each of 10 stitches. When you’re joining the arm
edges together using slip stitches, it’s best to work those slip stitches
‘on the wrong side, which means you should have the sweater lying
inside out, which is the opposite as shown in the photo below.
bottom up and around
“COLLAR OR BORDER
Row 1: Start at the bottom center of the sweater and attach yarn with
a slip stitch. Work 7 chains. Starting with 3rd chain from hook, work
“1 hde in each chain back to the body. Join to the next stitch on the
main body using a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main
body. Turn. (5 hdc)

ot
Row 2: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from
45
hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (5
hdc). Turn.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hde in the extra front
loop of each of next 5 st. Join to the next st on the main body using a
sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (5 hde + 3
sl st)
Rows 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15: Repeat Rows 2-3.
Ld work 5 hde
Ey
turn, ch 2,
work 5 hde back - —
mie :
4
to body piece sl st into next 3 st,efe.. >
Row 16: Make sure yarn is in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from -
hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 4 st. Work 2 hde in
the extra front loop of next st. Turn. (6 hdc)
46
sl st)
hook, work 1 hde in the extra front loop of next 5 st. Work 2 hde in
Row 19: Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc in the extra front
sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (7 hdc + 3
sl st)
hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 6 st. Work 2 hdc in
sl st)
Row 22: Make sure yarn is in front of hook, Starting with 4th st from
47
sl] st)
hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 8 st. Work 2 hdc in
loop of each of next 10 st. Join to the next st on the main body using
a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (10 hde
+ 3 sl st)
Row 26: Make sure yarn 1s in front of hook. Starting with 4th st from
a sl st. Work I sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (11 hde.
+ 3 sl st)
48
hdc). Turn.
a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (11 hdc
Sao-SL St}
Rows 30-66: Repeat Rows 28-29, in pairs.
hook, work 1 hdc in the extra front loop of next 9 st. Work 1
hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (10 hdc)
a sl st. Work 1 sl st in each of next 2 st on main body. Turn. (10 hde
By SESt)
hde2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (9 hdc)

sl st)
49
hook, work 1 hde in the extra front loop of next 7 st. Work 1
hdc2tog in the extra front loops Turn. (8 hdc)
sl st)
hook, work 1 hde in the extra front loop of next 6 st. Work 1
sl st)
hde2tog in the extra front loops ‘Turn. (6 hde)
50
sl st)
sl st)
hdc). Turn.
sl st)
Rows 81-88: Repeat Rows 79-80, in pairs.
hook, work 1 hde in the extra front loop of each stitch across. (5
hdc). Turn.
sl st. Work 1 sl st in next stitch on main body. Work 1 sl st in next st
(same as starting st). Turn (5 hde + 3 sl st)
hdc). Turn.
Join Row 91 with Row 1.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Flip the collar back, and you’re done!

Tunisian Crochet Pointy Pom Pom

Hat
MATERIALS:
Tunisian Crochet Pointy Pom Pom Hat | Purl Soho
1 (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist or Worsted Twist

Heather, 100% merino wool. We used...
ao
Worsted Twist Heather in Pink Peony for the Baby size.
Worsted Twist Heather in Mixed Berry for the Nid size.
Worsted Twist in Pink Grapefruit for the Teen size.
Worsted Twist in Paprika Red for the Adult Small size.
Worsted Twist in Gray Fig for the Adult Large size.
Note: If you are making the Kid size, you might not want to wind
your second skein in case you end up not needing it. A size J (6 mm)
afghan crochet hook
Optional: A size J (6 mm) crochet hook
Clover’s Pom Pom Maker in Small for Baby size and Large for Kid,
Teen, Adult Small, Adult Large sizes.
GAUGE
14 stitches and 8 repeats of Forward Rows 1 and 2 = 4 inches in
Tunisian Crochet Gobelin Stitch
SIZES
Baby (Kid, Teen, Adult Small, Adult Large)
Finished Circumference: 14 % (15 2, 19, 20 %4, 22 V4) inches
54
Finished Height: 10 (10.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5) inches
PATTERN
BEGIN
NOTE: If you’re unfamiliar with the techniques of Tunisian Crochet,

please check out our Tunisian Crochet Basics Tutorial.
Foundation Row: Chain 26 (28, 34, 36, 40).
Starting with the second chain from the hook, work a Preparation
Row.
Work one Return Row.
PATTERN:
Forward Row 1: Insert hook through space number 1 (between the

vertical strands), yarn over (yo), pull loop through onto hook.
*Insert hook in next space, yo, pull loop through onto hook, repeat
from * to last space.

Skip the last space.
Insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop
through onto hook. [26 (28, 34, 36, 40) stitches]
56
Note: Remember that when you start the next row, you don’t turn
the work; you just keep the same side facing you.
Return Row 1: Chain 1, *yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on

hook, repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook.
Forward Row 2: Insert hook into space number 2, yo, pull loop
through onto hook, *insert hook in next space, yo, pull loop through
onto hook, repeat from * to end of row, including the last space.
Insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop
through onto hook.
Return Row 2: Repeat Return Row 1.
Repeat these 4 Rows until piece measures 2 1/2 (3, 3 '/2, 4, 5) inches,
ending with Forward Row 2.
Decrease Row [NOTE: Decrease Rows will always be on a Return

Row 2]: Chain 1, [yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on hook] two
times, yo, pull loop through next 3 stitches on hook, *yo, pull loop
through next 2 stitches on hook, repeat from * until 5 stitches remain
on hook, yo, pull loop through next 3 stitches on hook, [yo, pull loop
through next 2 stitches on hook] two times, ending with one loop on
hook. [2 stitches decreased].
Starting with Forward Row 1, repeat the 4 rows of Gobelin Stitch,
substituting a Decrease Row for every Return Row 2, until you have
8 stitches remaining on your hook and have just finished a Forward
Row 2.
POINT
Return Row 2: Chain 1, [yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on

hook] two times, yo, pull loop through next 3 stitches on hook, [yo,
pull loop through next 2 stitches on hook] three times, ending with
one loop on hook.
Forward Row 3: Insert hook through space number 1, yo, pull loop
58
onto hook, repeat from * to last space, skip the last space, insert the
hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop through onto
hook. [7 stitches]
Return Row 4: Chain 1, [yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on

hook] two times, yo, pull loop through next 3 stitches on hook, [yo,
pull loop through next two on hook] two times, ending with one
loop on hook.
Forward Row 5: Insert hook through space number 2, yo, pull loop
a2
onto hook, repeat from * to end of row, including the last space,
insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop through
onto hook. [6 stitches]
Return Row 6: Chain 1, yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on

hook, yo, pull loop through next 3 stitches on hook, fyo, pull loop
through next 2 stitches on hook] two times, ending with one loop on
hook.
Forward Row 7: Repeat Forward Row 3. [5 stitches]

-/
60
Tunisian Crochet Pointy Pom Pom Hat | Purl Soho
Return Row 8: Chain 1, [yo, pull loop through the next 3 stitches]
two times, ending with one loop on hook. Slip stitch into first stitch
of last row.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop.
Make another piece identical to this one, starting with the Begin
section.
61
Now, is a good time to wet block both pieces. This will decrease
curling and make the next step (seaming) easier. To wet block, soak
the pieces in warm, soapy water for about 15 minutes. Rinse out the
soap and squeeze out the excess water (do not twist or wring!). Roll
the pieces in a dry towel and squeeze the roll, then lay the pieces flat
on another dry towel, allowing them to air dry.
FINISH
SEAM
With right sides facing you, seam around the sides and points of the
hat pieces, using the same concept as the Mattress Stitch.
KAR FLAPS
Holding the hat upside down, at the bottom edge pick up 6 (7, 9, 11,
13) stitches on the right side of the seam and 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) stitches on
the left side of the seam. [10 (12, 14, 16, 18) stitches]
NOTE: You can customize the placement and width of the flaps by
trying the hat on and placing stitch markers on either side of where
you want the flaps to go. The number of stitches you cast on simply
needs to be an even number.
Starting with Forward Row 1, work Gobelin Stitch for 1 inch, ending
-on Forward Row 2.

Work a Decrease Row as you did for the two hat pieces. [2 stitches
decreased]
Starting with Forward Row 1, repeat the 4 rows of Gobelin Stitch,

substituting a Decrease Row for every Return Row 2, until you have
8 stitches remaining on your hook and have just finished a Forward
Row 2.
Work Point as you did for the hat.
Repeat for second flap at the other seam, picking up 4 (5, 5, 5, 5)
stitches on the right side of the seam and 6 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on
the left side.
Starting at the top corner of either flap, with the right side facing you,
join yarn and work 1 round of single crochet into each stitch along
the entire edge of the hat. Work | round of slip stitch (optional).
NOTE: You may find it easier to work the edging around the hat
with a regular crochet hook instead of an afghan hook.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop.
Either wet block or lightly steam the flaps.
POM POMS
Make two pom poms and use their tails to attach one to the point of
64
each ear flap. (We used the size Small Pom Pom Maker in yellow for
the Baby size hat and the Large Pom Pom Maker in lime green for all
the others.)
Weave in all the ends and you’re done!
65
Mini Tunisian Crochet Hold All
MATERIALS:
3ply cotton yarn — the number of colours is up to you
3mm tunisian crochet hook
a small shank button
PATTERN:
To start, cast on 25 in your first colour. This is going to end up being

the colour at the front opening, in my case it’s pink.
66
Tunisian crochet 8 rows in pink, 8 rows in red, 10 in pale blue.
Then switch to your last colour, in my case navy. I crocheted 5 rows,

then on the Oth I started decreasing, so that I could create a curved
edge for the opening flap of the hold all.
To decrease, all you need to do is stitch two together. On each

remaining row, I decreased on the first and last stitch, and also on the
5th stitch in and on the 5th to last stitch. On the 8th row, I also
chained across the 3 middle stitches, rather than picking up the
stitches from the previous row as usual, in order to create the button
hole. I finished off on the 10th row.
This will give you the following piece of crochet:
67
Carefully block and iron this piece to square up the rows / edges.
I decided to add some further contrast colour at this point. Firstly I

blanket stitched just along the front edge of what would be the
opening, in navy on the pink.
Then | matched up the sides to form the purse, putting the pink edge
to the second row of navy (or, row | to row 28) and pinning this in
place. 1 then whip stitched the edges using red yarn. This created a
nice contrast on the front and back...
68
Lastly, I turned added my a small shank button, with a double thread

of red yarn, pulled it through to the back and tied it off.
And you're done!
69
Made in the USA
Coppell, TX
20 May 2022
77997409R00039
TD
VT
aT
T
TOTT
am Sh! oe
|i CATA UAANATN MUN

eveeoeee 8565 |
| 9"798506"359753"

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Passionate and Amazing ddeas To Crochet Tunisian

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Bobble Heart Crochet Potholder .........:cccsscossacrecacnnssesuveoneae 5

Tunisian Crochet SR awh is. caresnacaccencestpanes dsaneceeunersan ater 14

Tunisian Crochet (U-Siirtt-c:s..v-seveccceeeseecareres

Slip Stitch Clutch Purse With Tunisian Crochet Detail ....26

The.Periect Beginner Headband s.1.1---3

Simple Starlight Tunisian Crochet Shrug... eeseeeeeee 41

Tunisian Crochet Pointy Pom Pom Hat

Mini trinisiat: Crochet Hold Alias. ee 66

magic ring (or ch4 ss in first ch to form loop)

Rnd: 6sc in loop

Rnd2: 2sc in each sc (12sc)

Rnd3-4: 1sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, repeat around

sc, 2dc in next sc, hdc, sc)

Rnd6: sc, hdc, 2dce in next 2 stitches, de in next 4 stitches, hdc in

then repeat backwards

next 2 stitches, de in next 3 stitches, 2dc, dc, 2dc. de in next 8

stitches, 2dc in next 2 stitches, hdc, sc, then repeat backwards

Rnd9: sc in next 2 stitches, hdc, de in next 4 stitches, 2dc in next 2

stitches, dc in next 10 stitches, hdc in next 10 stitches, 3dc, hde in

next 3 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, then repeat backwards

Rnd10: sc in next 3 stitches, hdc in next 2 stitches, dc in next 2

stitches, 2dc in next 2 stitches, (dc, 2dc in next stitch)3 times, de in

next 4 stitches, hdc in next 4 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, hdc in

next 4 stitches, de in next 6 stitches, 2dc in next 2 stitches, hdc, sc,

then repeat backwards

ss and finish off

(red, yellow or green)

To make a smaller apple, just reduce the number of rounds. Round 8

Bobble Heart Crochet Potholder

H-5.0mm and I-5.5mm crochet hooks

2 colors of worsted weight cotton yarn (I used Sugar’n Cream in Hot

Begin by chaining 28, using your I hook.

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. sc, *bobble, sc* (repeat * 13 times). There

should be 13 bobble stitches, and 27 total stitches.

your hook. Basically, you want to crochet 2/3 of a double crochet

step photo-tutorial or video:

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. sc across (27 stitches).

Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, 23 sc, bobble, sc (27 stitches).

Row 5: Ch 1 and turn. sc across (27 stitches).

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc, bobble, sc 11,

bobble, sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc (27 stitches).

Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. se across (27 stitches).

Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc, bobble, se 5,

[color 2] bobble, [color 1] sc 5, bobble, sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc

Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. sce 11, [color2] ‘sc 5, [color 1] sc 11 (27

(repeat * 3 times), [color 1] sc 8, bobble, sc (27 stitches).

Row 11: Ch 1 and turn. se 9, [color 2] se 9, [color 1] sc 9 (27 stitches).

Row 12: Ch f and turn. sc, bobble, sc 6, [color 2] sc *bobble, sc*

(repeat * 5 times), [color 1] sc 6, bobble, sc (27 stitches).

Row 13: Ch 1 and turn. sc 7, [color 2] sc 13, [color 1] sc 7 (27

Row 14: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 4, [color 2] sc *bobble, sc*

(repeat * 7 times), [color 1] sc 4, bobble, sc (27 stitches).

Row 16: Repeat Row 14.

Row 17: Ch 1 and turn. se 7, [color 2] sc 6, [color 1] sc 1, [color 2] sc

6, [color 1] sc 7 (27 stitches).

Row 19: Ch 1 and turn. sc across (27 stitches).

Row 20: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 3, bobble, sc 15, bobble, se 3, |

bobble, se (27 stitches).

Row 21: Ch 1 and turn. sc across (27 stitches).

Row 23: Ch 1 and turn. sc across (27 stitches).

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc (repeat * 13 times). There

Row 12: Ch f and turn. sc, bobble, sc 6, [color 2] sc bobble, sc

Row 14: Ch 1 and turn. sc, bobble, sc 4, [color 2] sc bobble, sc

Read Notes first!

Row 1: With 1 Ip on hk, y/o, pull up next loop. Repeat from * to *

3 st and y/o sp . Repeat from to * to end of row.

Row 2: T ss, tps; rep from across.