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The effects of lubricants on the stiffness of sewing threads

Article in TEKSTİL VE KONFEKSİYON · July 2011

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THE EFFECTS OF LUBRICANTS ON THE STIFFNESS

OF SEWING THREADS
YAĞLAMA MADDELERİNİN DİKİŞ İPLİKLERİNİN EĞİLME
DAYANIMI ÜZERİNE ETKİLERİ
Ayça GÜRARDA * , Binnaz MERİÇ KAPLANGİRAY, Mehmet KANIK, Esra YÜKSELTAN

Uludag University Textile Engineering Department, Bursa, Turkey

Received: 10.12.2010 Accepted: 16.05.2011

ABSTRACT
This paper reports an experimental investigation into the effects of lubricants on the stiffness of sewing threads. In this work, three
types of sewing threads, polyester-spun, core-spun (polyester/polyester) and core-spun (polyester/cotton) having the same ticket number
at different colours (white, grey and black) were used. Three different lubricant types and lubricant feeding rates (0,5-1-2 g/min) were
applied to these sewing threads. Therefore 81 different sewing threads were obtained.
The aim of this study is to see the effects of the lubricants on the stiffness of sewing thread. Sewing threads with very high bending
length and flexural rigidity values may lead to sewing problems like seam pucker as they too stiff to be manipulated and controlled. To
investigate the stiffness of a sewing thread bending length must be obtained. In this work a stiffness tester was used to measure the
bending length of sewing thread.
In this study, it was found when lubricant feeding rate increase on the sewing thread bending length and stiffness decreased. It was
also found lubricant type is very important on the stiffness of sewing thread.
Key Words: Sewing thread, Lubricant feeding rate, Lubricant amount, Stiffness, Bending length.

ÖZET
Bu araştırma, yağlama maddelerinin dikiş ipliklerinin eğilme dayanımı üzerine etkilerini deneysel olarak sunmaktadır. Bu
çalışmada, aynı etiket numarasında ve farklı renklerde (beyaz, gri ve siyah) polyester, core-spun (polyester/pamuk) ve core-spun
(polyester/polyester) olmak üzere 3 tip dikiş ipliği kullanılmıştır. Bu dikiş ipliklerine 3 değişik yağ tipi ve 3 değişik yağ besleme oranı
(0,5-1-2 g/min) uygulanmıştır. Böylece 81 değişik tip dikiş ipliği elde edilmiştir.
Bu çalışmanın amacı, dikiş ipliklerinin eğilme dayanımı üzerine yağların etkisini görmektir. Yüksek eğilme uzunluğu ve eğilme
rijtliğine sahip dikiş iplikleri sert olmalarından dolayı kullanılması ve kontrolü zor olduğundan dikiş büzülmesi gibi dikiş problemlerine
sebep olmaktadır. Dikiş ipliğinin eğilme dayanımı için eğilme uzunluğu bulunmalıdır. Bu çalışmada, dikiş ipliklerinin eğilme
uzunluğunun ölçümünde, eğilme dayanımı test cihazı kullanılmıştır. Burada, yağ besleme oranı arttığı zaman dikiş ipliği eğilme
uzunluğu ve eğilme dayanımı azalmaktadır. Aynı zamanda dikiş ipliklerinin eğilme dayanımı üzerine yağ tipi de çok önemlidir.
Anahtar Kelimeler: Dikiş ipliği, Yağ besleme oranı, Yağ miktarı, Eğilme dayanımı, Eğilme uzunluğu.

*
Corresponding author: Ayça Gürarda, aycagur@uludag.edu.tr, Tel: + 90 224 29420 60

1. INTRODUCTION
In apparel industry, the sewing
process is one of the critical processes
in the determination of productivity and
quality of the finish garment (1,2).
What garment manufacturers can do
to improve the quality of garments is to
use better sewing threads, improved
machinery, better garment design and
better trained personel. The use of
better sewing thread would appear to
be easiest, least expensive option (4).
The forces that are developed in the
sewing thread are mostly due to the
friction between the thread-needle and
fabric being-sewn. Sewing thread
finishes have a significant influence on
threads frictional properties. The
lubricant must provide low and
controlled level of friction and be
capable of masking the different basic
surface properties of threads (3).
Although there is some understanding
of the effect of individual thread
properties on seam apperance, their
combined effect is not clear and hence
sewing threads can not be compared
in terms of their overall performance.
The physical and mechanical
properties of sewing threads related to
seam apperance, their combined effect
is not clear and hence sewing threads
can not be compared in terms of their
overall performance.
The physical and mechanical properties
of sewing threads related to seam
apperance include linear density,
irregularity, tensile, bending and
frictional properties and dimensional
stability (3). The bending properties of
sewing threads were important for
seam pucker on garments. If the
sewing thread stiffness higher than

272 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011

fabric stiffness seam pucker were
occur on the garments (5).
The simple cantilever is a common
method to measure the bending rigidity
of fabrics. However, the small
dimension and untwisting of the free
end of yarn are the major difficulties in
the simple cantilever method. A two
support beam system was used to
measure the bending rigidity of yarn
(6).
Owing to the helical paths taken by the
fibers in the yarn, they are both bent
and twisted when the yarn is bent. The
yarn bending rigidity depends on the
bending and torsional rigidity of its
constituent fibers, the arrangement
due to twist, and the geometric
parameters such as helix angle. The
yarn bending rigidity can be predicted
using the tensile modulus and shear
modulus of its constituent fibers, yarn
helix angle and yarn radius.
One of the yarn’s mechanical
properties, the bending property, is not
only closely connected with the fabric’s
physical properties, such as crimp,
skew and curl but also with its
formability, such as drape, crease
recovery and tailorability (7).
Yarn flexural rigidity was estimated by
the ring loop method. Some chemical
treatments cause an increase in
flexural rigidity regardless of the yarn
structure. The swelling of fibres during
enzymatic scouring and bleaching
might increase the compactness of the
structure, resulting in lesser freedom of
fiber movement during bending.
However, increase in flexural rigidity is
more marked in rotor yarns than in
ring-spun yarns. Moreover, increased
twist factor normally increases flexural
rigidity (8).
To investigate the stiffness of a sewing
thread bending length and flexural
rigidity must be obtained.
2. MATERIALS AND METHODS
Three types of sewing threads,
polyester-spun, polyester/polyester
core-spun (poly/poly) and poliester/
cotton core-spun (poly/cotton) having
the same ticket number at different
colours (white, grey and black) were
used. Three different lubricant types
and lubricant feeding rates (0,5-1-2
g/min) were applied to these sewing
threads. Therefore 81 different sewing
threads were obtained.
Tenacity and elongation values of
sewing threads were measured in a
Instron Strength Tester.
Lubricant was applied to these sewing
threads under controlled conditions
with the OMR winding machine.
Lubricant feeding rates were set up
with Graf lubrication system. The
properties of lubricants were in Table
1. The properties of sewing threads
before lubricant application were in
Table 2 and the properties of sewing
thread after lubrication were in Table
3, 4 and 5.
After the lubricants were applied to the
sewing threads on the winding
machine under controlled lubricant
feeding rates, the amount of lubricant
on the sewing threads were measured.
Mesdan Oil Exraction Apparatus
(Code 273B) was used to measure for
quick determination of lubricant
percent content of thread.
As described at Turkish Standart 2250
“Textile Glass- Determination of
Stiffness of Rovings” and ISO
3375:2009, suspension of a test piece
of threads, 500 mm long, at its centre
over a hook with specified dimensions
and measurement of the separation of
the two hanging ends of the test
specimen at a standart distance of 60
mm below the suspension point (9).
A suitable sewing thread stiffness
tester is shown in Figure 1.
SPSS was used for all statistical
procedures. The results were evaluated
by analysis of variance (anova) and
Student-Newman-Keuls (SNK) test. All
test results were assessed at
significant levels of α ≤ 0.05.
Table 6 shows the results of the SNK
tests. The numbers in brackets
indicate the significant level of the
factors for the properties in Table 6.
Therefore, all numbers in brackets are
1 for colour indicating that colour did
not have effect on bending length. The
number in bracket is 3 for poly/cotton
indicating that poly/cotton thread type
had significant effect on bending
length.

Table 1. Properties of lubricants used

Viscosity Application temperature

Lubricant name Chemical structure
(mPas) (°C)
Polisiloksan+parafin Cold
Ruco-Fil SCI 500-1000
(without water) (25 °C)
Cold
Ruco-Fil SNV Polisiloksan 350
(25 °C)
Polisiloksan+parafin Hot
Ruco-Fil SCW 1000-3000
(without water) (80 °C)

Table 2. Properties of sewing threads before lubricant application

Yarn Type Colour Yarn Count Ticket Twist Tenacity Elongation Bending
(dtex) Number (T/m) (N/tex) (%) Length (cm)
White 130x2 120 781 (Z) 0.377 14.44 1.5
Polyester-spun Black 130x2 120 780 (Z) 0.353 14.82 1.48
Grey 130x2 120 774(Z) 0.406 14.98 1.56
Core-spun White 125x2 120 981(Z) 0.514 20.77 1.76
(poly /poly) Black 125x2 120 1004(Z) 0.49 20.22 1.86
Grey 125x2 120 997(Z) 0.512 21.60 1.9
White 123x2 120 1096(Z) 0.423 20.81 1.96
Core-spun Black 123x2 120 1081(Z) 0.422 20.31 2
(poly/cot) Grey 123x2 120 1105(Z) 0.411 19.82 1.92

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011 273

 Figure 1. The yarn stiffness tester (9)

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
3.1. Bending Length Results
The SNK results at Table 6 show that
no significant effects of the colours of
the sewing threads after lubricant
application on the bending length. But
the yarn structure has significant
effects on bending length. Core-spun
(poly/cotton) sewing thread bending
length was higher than core-spun
(poly/poly) and polyester-spun sewing
threads. Lubricant feeding rates and
lubricant types are also have
significant effects on the bending
length. The bending length values
were higher on the sewing threads with
0.5 lubricant feeding rate than the
sewing threads with 1 and 2 lubricant
feeding rates. High lubricant feeding
rates make the sewing threads soft.
Lubricant types have significant effects
on the sewing threads, too. The
bending length values were higher on
the sewing threads with SCI and SNV
lubricant types than the sewing threads
with SCW lubricant. Hot application
with SCW lubricant makes the threads
more softness than the cold application
with SCI and SNV lubricants. At figure
2, 3 and 4 we can see these results,
too.

Table 3. Properties of polyester-spun sewing threads after lubrication

Lubricant Lubricant Feeding Colour Lubricant Bending Length Thread Tenacity Thread
Type Rate(g/min) Amount (%) (cm) (N/tex) Elongation (%)
White 3.05 1.54 0.346 13.77
0.5 Grey 4.2 1.52 0.404 14.64
Black 3.1 1.62 0.346 14.96
White 8.1 1.68 0.346 13.4
Ruco-Fil SCI 1 Grey 6.1 1.72 0.384 14.21
Black 6.3 1.78 0.362 14.47
White 14.8 2.02 0.348 13.58
2 Grey 14.4 1.84 0.381 14.52
Black 14.1 1.64 0.382 14.76
White 4 1.9 0.377 14.69
0.5 Grey 3.95 1.92 0.417 15
Black 4 1.6 0.364 15.09
White 9.8 1.76 0.386 14.25
Ruco-Fil SNV 1 Grey 8.8 1.86 0.37 13.98
Black 9.3 1.7 0.382 15.23
White 17.9 1.82 0.36 13.84
2 Grey 16 1.84 0.4 14.64
Black 14.4 1.7 0.354 14.61
White 3.5 1.9 0.35 13.87
0.5 Grey 4.15 1.48 0.414 15.17
Black 3.35 1.5 0.356 15.15
White 9.35 1.48 0.348 13.96
Ruco-Fil SCW 1 Grey 9.6 1.52 0.341 14.01
Black 9 1.46 0.386 15.27
White 16.75 1.46 0.380 14.64
2 Grey 16.3 1.52 0.372 14.52
Black 14.65 1.48 0.355 15.16

274 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011

 Table 4. Properties of core-spun (poly/poly) sewing thread after lubrication

Lubricant Lubricant Feeding Colour Lubricant Bending Length Thread Tenacity Thread
Type Rate(g/min) Amount (%) (cm) (N/tex) Elongation (%)
White 3.55 1.68 0.51 20.73
0.5 Grey 3.55 1.8 0.506 20.14
Black 3.75 1.88 0.510 21.56
White 6.9 1.96 0.518 20.29
Ruco-Fil SCI 1 Grey 7.2 1.76 0.512 21.11
Black 7.9 1.88 0.516 21.07
White 13.3 1.68 0.512 19.69
2 Grey 13.4 1.68 0.514 20.19
Black 13.95 1.82 0.50 20.98
White 3.95 1.82 0.504 20.49
0.5 Grey 3.85 1.8 0.520 16.75
Black 3.65 1.92 0.496 21.68
White 9.75 1.78 0.520 21.04
Ruco-Fil SNV 1 Grey 9.4 1.78 0.524 20.37
Black 9.1 1.86 0.496 21.44
White 15.1 1.84 0.507 20.17
Grey 15.2 1.76 0.516 20.05
Black 16.7 1.84 0.511 21.44
White 3.7 1.82 0.504 20.55
0.5 Grey 3.1 1.92 0.512 21.73
Black 4.4 1.84 0.504 21.58
White 8.55 1.9 0.500 20.57
Ruco-Fil SCW 1 Grey 9.05 1.9 0.518 21.08
Black 8.3 1.88 0.503 21.90
White 16.2 1.78 0.496 20.57
2 Grey 13.8 1.72 0.515 21.24
Black 14.25 1.84 0.477 21.32

Table 5. Properties of core-spun (poly/cotton) sewing thread after lubrication

Lubricant Type Lubricant Colour Lubricant Bending Length Thread Tenacity Thread
Feeding Amount (%) (cm) (N/tex) Elongation (%)
Rate(g/min)
White 3.15 1.98 0.425 20.59
0.5 Grey 3.35 1.92 0.422 20.13
Black 3.25 1.84 0.423 20.47
White 8 1.9 0.433 20.39
Ruco-Fil SCI 1 Grey 7.8 1.96 0.410 19.33
Black 7.05 1.84 0.426 20.10
White 14.25 1.66 0.427 20.52
2 Grey 14.6 1.84 0.411 19.75
Black 13.6 1.88 0.422 20.17
White 3.6 1.94 0.423 20.33
0.5 Grey 4.1 1.96 0.421 20.10
Black 4.25 1.84 0.422 19.82
White 9.25 1.92 0.426 20.26
Ruco-Fil SNV 1 Grey 8.9 1.78 0.424 20.05
Black 9.05 1.78 0.423 20.01
White 16.75 1.78 0.418 19.88
2 Grey 16.5 1.76 0.422 20.08
Black 16.05 1.86 0.422 19.47
White 4.1 1.96 0.432 21.26
0.5 Grey 4.35 1.9 0.427 20.64
Black 3.3 1.9 0.423 20.7
White 8.5 1.86 0.416 19.84
Ruco-Fil SCW 1 Grey 8.65 1.86 0.414 19.82
Black 9.05 1.78 0.423 20.38
White 15.84 1.84 0.424 21.12
2 Grey 14.6 1.84 0.407 20.20
Black 12.5 1.84 0.418 20.10

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011 275

 Table 6. The Student-Newman-Keuls test results of sewing threads after lubrication

Factor Bending Length Thread Tenacity Thread

(cm) (N/tex) Elongation (%)
Thread Polyspun 1.6644 (1) .3710 (1) 14.4919 (1)
Type Polycotton 1.8600 (3) .4222 (2) 20.2275 (2)
polypoly 1.8259 (2) .5089 (3) 20.8866 (3)
Colour Black 1.7741 (1) .4301 (1) 18.8707 (2)
Grey 1.7859 (1) .4460 (2) 18.4230 (1)
White 1.7904 (1) .4315 (1) 18.3123 (1)
Lubricant 2.00 1.7622 (1) .4323 (1) 18.4288 (1)
Feeding Rate 1.00 1.7904 (2) .4338 (1) 18.4444 (1)
0.50 1.7978 (2) .4361 (1) 18.7327 (2)
Lubricant SCW 1.7393 (1) .4307 (1) 18.7570 (2)
Type SCI 1.7919 (2) .4337 (1) 18.3687 (1)
SNV 1.8193 (2) .4377 (2) 18.4802 (1)

2,5
Bending Length (cm)

1,5
Polyspun,SCI
1 Polyspun,SNV
Polyspun,SCW
0,5

0
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/min)

Figure 2. Bending length values of white poly spun sewing threads with SCI, SNV and SCW lubricants at different lubricant feeding rates

2
1,95
1,9
Bending Length (cm)

1,85
1,8
1,75 Polypoly,SCI
1,7 Polypoly,SNV
1,65 Polypoly,SCW
1,6
1,55
1,5
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/min)

Figure 3. Bending length values of white core-spun (poly/poly) sewing threads with SCI, SNV and SCW lubricants at different lubricant
feeding rates

276 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011

 2
1,95

Bending Length (cm)

1,9
1,85
1,8
1,75 Polycot,SCI
1,7 Polycot,SNV
1,65 Polycot,SCW
1,6
1,55
1,5
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/min)

Figure 4. Bending length values of white core-spun (poly/cotton) sewing threads with SCI, SNV and SCW lubricants at different lubricant
feeding rates

3.2. Lubricant Amount Results lubricants and Ruco-SNV silicone When lubricant feeding rate 2 g/min at
based lubricant for our sewing threads. Graf lubrication system, poly spun and
Parafin wax is an essential constitutent poly-cotton sewing thread lubricant
of the lubricants used for many sewing Figure 5, 6 and 7 show that significant amount higher than poly-poly sewing
thread, but silicone compounds are effects of the thread type and lubricant thread.
most frequently used because their feeding rate on the lubricant amount. In
frictional properties unaffected by heat. this study, it was found when lubricant Sewing threads stiffness were
In this study we used Ruco-SCI and feeding rate increased on the sewing decreased when the amount of
Ruco-SCW silicone-parafin based thread lubricant amount increased too. lubricant were increased.

16
Lubricant Amount (%)

14
12
10
8 Polyspun,SCI
6 Polypoly,SCI
4
Polycot,SCI
2
0
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/m in)

Figure 5. Lubricant amounts of white poly-spun sewing threads with SCI lubricant at different lubricant feeding rates

18
16
Lubricant Amount

14
12
10
(%)

Polyspun,SNV
8
6 Polypoly,SNV
4 Polycot,SNV
2
0
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/m in)

Figure 6. Lubricant amounts of white poly-spun sewing threads with SNV lubricant at different lubricant feeding rates

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011 277

 18
16

Lubricant Amount (%)

14
12
10 Polyspun,SCW
8 Polypoly,SCW
6 Polycot,SCW
4
2
0
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/min)

Figure 7. Lubricant amounts of white poly-spun sewing threads with SCW lubricant at different lubricant feeding rates

3.3.Tenacity and Elongation Results

The SNK results at Table 6 and Figure 8, 9 and 10 show that significant effects of the thread type of the sewing thread after
lubricant application on the tenacity and elongation. There was no significant effect of lubricant feeding rate of the sewing
threads after lubrication application on the tenacity and elongation. Core-spun (poly/poly) sewing thread tenacity and
elongation values were higher than core-spun (poly/cot) and polyester-spun sewing threads.

0,39

0,38
Tenacity (N/Tex)

0,37

0,36
Polyspun,SCI
0,35
Polyspun,SNV
0,34 Polyspun,SCW
0,33

0,32
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/min)

Figure 8. Tenacity values of white poly spun sewing threads with SCI, SNV and SCW lubricants at different lubricant feeding rates

0,52
0,515
0,51
Tenacity (N/Tex)

0,505
0,5 Polypoly,SCI
0,495 Polypoly,SNV
0,49 Polypoly,SCW
0,485
0,48
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate (g/m in)

Figure 9. Tenacity values of white core-spun (poly/poly) sewing threads with SCI, SNV and SCW lubricants at different lubricant feeding rates

278 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011

 0,435

0,43

Tenacity (N/Tex)
0,425

0,42 Polycot,SCI
Polycot,SNV
0,415
Polycot,SCW
0,41

0,405
0,5 1 2
Lubricant Feeding Rate(g/min)

Figure 10. Tenacity values of white core-spun (poly/cotton) sewing threads with SCI, SNV and SCW lubricants at different lubricant feeding rates

4. CONCLUSION Core-spun (poly/cotton) sewing thread necessity to optimize the amount of

In this study, we investigated the
tenacity, elongation, bending length
and lubrication amount of three main
types of sewing threads with different
lubricant feeding rates.
The lubricants on the sewing threads
affect the sewing thread stiffness,
greatly. In this study, it was found
when lubricant feeding rate increased
on the sewing thread bending length
and stiffness decreased. It was also
found lubricant type is very important
on the stiffness of sewing thread. The
bending length and stiffness of the
sewing thread decreased after
application of SCW lubricant at 80 °C.
stiffness was higher than core-spun
(poly/poly) and polyester-spun sewing
thread after lubricant application.
Moreover, core-spun (poly/poly) sewing
thread has higher tenacity and
elongation than core-spun(poly/cotton)
and polyester- spun sewing thread after
lubricant application.
Differences in the yarn structure
affected bending length. Sewing
threads with very high bending length
and flexural rigidity values may lead to
sewing problems like seam pucker as
they too stiff to be manipulated and
controlled. Lubricant application has
affected friction force and stiffness of
the sewing thread. Therefore, there is
lubricant on the sewing threads. We
suggested poly spun sewing thread and
SCW lubricant at 1 and 2 g/min
lubricant feeding rates and % 14-16
lubricant amount for optimum seam
performance. It is hoped that the results
can be applicable in the apparel
industries.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We gratefully acknowledgement the
support for this work by the Uludağ
University (Project no: 2009/37). We
also grateful to Coats Textile Factory-
Bursa/Turkey and its Quality Assurance
Manager Mr. Onur Yüksel.

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Bu araştırma, Bilim Kurulumuz tarafından incelendikten sonra, oylama ile saptanan iki hakemin görüşüne sunulmuştur. Her iki hakem
yaptıkları incelemeler sonucunda araştırmanın bilimselliği ve sunumu olarak “Hakem Onaylı Araştırma” vasfıyla yayımlanabileceğine
karar vermişlerdir.

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 3/2011 279

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