The Journal of The Textile Institute

ISSN: 0040-5000 (Print) 1754-2340 (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/tjti20

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption

of sewing thread for 504 over-edge stitch

Abher Rasheed, Sheraz Ahmad, Nauman Ali, Ateeq ur Rehman &

Muhammad Babar Ramzan

To cite this article: Abher Rasheed, Sheraz Ahmad, Nauman Ali, Ateeq ur Rehman & Muhammad
Babar Ramzan (2018): Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 504
over-edge stitch, The Journal of The Textile Institute

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2018.1423902

Published online: 11 Jan 2018.

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 The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2018
https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2018.1423902

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 504 over-edge
stitch
Abher Rasheeda, Sheraz Ahmadb, Nauman Alia, Ateeq ur Rehmana and Muhammad Babar Ramzana
a
Garments Manufacturing Department, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan; bDepartment of Materials and Testing, National Textile
University, Faisalabad, Pakistan

ABSTRACT ARTICLE HISTORY

Sewing thread is one of the most important components of a sewn product that contributes significantly in Received 17 August 2017
the useful life of a product. Stitch class 504 is the one which is used in all types of sewn products. Its thread Accepted 22 December 2017
consumption is higher than class 300 and class 400. A mathematical model to predict the sewing thread
KEYWORDS
consumption of stitch class 504 has been proposed in this paper. The model is based on the geometry Sewing thread; stitch
of the stitch. The proposed model takes into account material thickness and stitch density. The model
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class-504; thread
was validated by using 24 samples (with different material thickness and stitch densities). The accuracy consumption; geometric
of the model was found to be 99%. Sensitivity analysis revealed that stitch density has 62% effect and model; stitch density
material thickness has 38% effect on thread consumption. The proposed model can predict the thread
consumption accurately; therefore, it can be used for better estimation of required thread and encourage
its better utilization in sewn product industry.

Introduction Standard stitch classes are further categorized in sub classes.

The most commonly used subclass of overedge stitch is class
The sewing thread is an important component of a sewn product.
504. According to International Organization for Standardization
It may be used to join different garment parts or for decorative
(ISO) 1991, class 504 is an over edge chain stitch with complex
purposes. Sewing thread significantly affects the production
stitch structure (ISO4915, 1991). However, it adds originality
efficiency and quality of a sewn product (Mangat & Rasheed,
and improves the quality of the stitched garment (Mikuni &
2006). After considering thread’s performance and appearance,
Koshinaka, 1987). Although the basic purpose of class 504 is
major concern of organization is to settle its cost. Thread cost
seaming or joining together plies, this class is also used to secure
can be defined as the cost of actual thread that is used in gar-
raw edges of a single ply. This class is mostly used for joining two
ment manufacturing, thread wastages during sewing and unused
or more plies together and serging to stop fabric fraying (Laing,
thread in stock (Midha et al., 2016). If the thread is faulty it raises
Laing, & Webster, 1998). Stitch type 504 is formed by using three
the production cost and causes more thread breakages (Buzov,
threads, a needle, an upper lopper, and a lower lopper. This class
Modestova, & Alymenkova, 1978). Moreover, seam failure might
is used in home textile, woven garment and knitwear (Glock &
occur during garment life cycle due to the use of inappropriate
Kunz, 2005).
sewing thread for sewing. Thus, the use of good quality sewing
For example, total thread consumption of a basic 5 pocket
thread will not only enhance the quality of garment but affects
jeans is around 190 yards which involves different stitch classes;
the profit of the organization also (Mangat & Rasheed, 2006).
301, 401, 504, 602 etc. Total operations of a basic 5 pocket jeans
A stitch is the configuration of the sewing thread in a specific
are almost 30 out of which five operations use class 504. The
repeated unit while series of stitches integrated in a material
thread consumption of this single stitch class is around 80 yards
for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge is called stitching.
per garment which counts about 42% of the total thread con-
Different types of stitches are applied on a garment to perform
sumption. Thread consumption depends on the type of stitch
sewing operations. There are six stitch classes according to ASTM
being used. The calculation for the consumption of sewing thread
D-6193, standard related to stitches and seams (D6193-16, A.,
has remained the matter of attention for the researchers since last
2016). Class 500 is one of the standard stitch classes which rep-
few decades. Different techniques have been used to predict con-
resent overedge stitch. This stitch class is always used on the
sumption of sewing thread for various stitch classes. Those tech-
edge of the material and has excellent stretch ability and good
niques include mathematical modeling, Fuzzy logic, geometrical
recovery. It is made by using at least one needle and one thread.
modeling, regression analysis and artificial neural networking
The maximum number of threads in overedge stitch is 4 with
etc. (Abeysooriya & Wickramasinghe, 2014; Jaouachi & Khedher,
two needles and two loppers (Glock & Kunz, 2005).

CONTACT  Muhammad Babar Ramzan  babar_ramzan@yahoo.com, drbabar@ntu.edu.pk

© 2018 The Textile Institute
 2   A. RASHEED ET AL.

2013; Jaouachi, Khedher, & Mili, 2012; Jaouadi, Msahli, Babay, & Experimental setup
Zitouni, 2006; Rasheed, Ahmad, Mohsin, Ahmad, & Afzal, 2014).
This research was focused on stitch class 504. There were two
Now a day, researchers are working on analytical mode-
parts of this research. Firstly, a geometric model to calculate the
ling methodologies to predict the sewing thread consumption.
sewing thread consumption was derived. Then, the proposed
Rasheed et al. (2014) presented a model to calculate the thread
model was validated. Samples were prepared by varying stitch
consumption of stitch class 301. The effect of different factors
density, material thickness, and fabric type.
on thread consumption was also determined using sensitivity
analysis. The equation to determine theoretical thread consump-
tion were developed and compared to the experimental ones to Geometry of stitch class 504
evaluate the waste factor in a stitching of jeans pant. Khedher and
The first part of this research was to define the geometry of stitch
Jaouachi (2015) used liner regression method and concluded that
class 504. A digital microscope was used to study the geometry of
developed theoretical consumption equations give more accurate
stitch class 504. It was observed that the geometry of this stitch
values; this is because waste factors were included in the analysis
is three dimensional. The three dimensional shape of stitch class
giving real sewing thread consumption value.
504 is shown in Figure 1.
Jaouachi and Khedher (2013) evaluated sewing thread con-
Further elaboration of Figure 1 concluded that the stitch class
sumption of a jeans pant using fuzzy logic theory and regres-
504 consists of three parts i.e. needle thread, upper lopper thread,
sion method. Being more flexible in defining and evaluating
and lower lopper thread. Therefore, the sewing thread consump-
constraints, the fuzzy model gave more precise calculation and
tion of stitch class 504 depends upon these three threads. Total
provided better understanding of the effects that input param-
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thread consumed in a stitch will be the sum of needle thread

eters such as stitch length, thread tension, fabric weight, thread
consumed, upper lopper thread consumed, and lower lopper
composition, and needle size have on sewing thread consump-
thread consumed. Equation 1 represents the total thread con-
tion of jeans pant. Jaouadi et al. (2006)studied four stitch types
sumed by a stitch:
on denim fabrics using different parameters like fabric thickness,
stitch density, and thread count. Regression analysis and neural Cs = Cn + Cul + Cll (1)
network was used to predict the consumption of sewing thread
where Cs, Cn, Cul, and Cll stand for total thread consumption in
required to stitch a trouser. It was concluded that the neural
one stitch, needle thread consumption, upper lopper thread con-
network gives the perfect calculation of the thread consumption.
sumption, and lower lopper thread consumption, respectively.
Calculating sewing thread consumption is very important
Thread consumed by each component (needle, upper lopper,
factor in thread procurement. The precise calculation of sewing
and lower lopper) is explained as follows. Figure 2 represents the
thread will ensure its efficient utilization along with the manu-
geometric shape of needle thread in stitch class 504.
facturing of more garments and decrease unused stock. In indus-
It is clear from Figure 1 that needle thread consumed in a
tries, thread consumption is predicted by using seam length.
stitch will be the sum of stitch length and twice the material
They use these calculations for thread purchasing and logistics
thickness. Therefore, needle thread consumption in a stitch is
processes. Wrong predictions may lead to incorrect costing and
represented by Equation 2:
decrease store utilization (Abeysooriya & Wickramasinghe,
2014). Based on the literature, it is evident that there is a need Cn = SL + 2MT (2)
to propose scientific methods that can predict sewing thread
where Cn, SL, and MT represent needle thread consumption in a
consumption for other stitch classes that are commonly used
stitch, stitch length, and material thickness, respectively. Material
in garment manufacturing along with lock stitch 301 and chain
thickness can be determined by using a digital thickness meter
stitch 401. Therefore, the objective of this paper is to contribute
according to D1777-96, A. (2015). Figure 3 depicts the relation-
the existing literature by presenting the geometric model to cal-
ship between stitch length and stitch density (Rasheed et al.,
culate the thread consumption of stitch class 504. Sewing thread
2014). Both the factors have a direct relationship. Stitch length
prediction techniques based on the literature focuses more on the
can be determined by using Equation 3:
statistical methods. This paper proposes a mathematical model
based on the geometry of stitch class 504. (
1
)
SL = − 2d (3)
SPC

Figure 1. Three dimensional shape of stitch class 504 (Glock & Kunz, 2005).
 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE   3

Then,
√
Z = (SW)2 + (0.4 × SL)2 (8)

Putting values of Z and X in Equation (6),

{ √ }
Figure 2. Geometry of needle thread in stitch class 504. Cll = 2 × (0.8 × SL) + (SW)2 + (0.4 × SL)2 (9)

Equation 9 can be used to determine the thread consumed in a

stitch by lower lopper. Figure 5 depicts the geometric shape of
upper lopper thread.
Study of the geometry of the upper lopper thread revealed that
Y represents stitch width while X represents 0.9 times the stitch
length. Thread consumption of upper lopper can be determined
by using Equation 10:
Figure 3. Relationship of stitch length and stitch density in stitch class 504.
Cul = 2X + Y + Z (10)
First of all, Z has to be calculated as it is an unknown quantity:
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where SL, SPC, and d stand for stitch length, stitches per cen-
timeter (stitch density), and sewing thread diameter, respectively.
(11)
√
Sewing thread diameter can be determined by using Equation 4 Z= Y 2 + X2
(Jaouadi, Msahli, & Sakli, 2009).
Then,
1
d=
√
√ (4) Z = (SW)2 + (0.9 × SL)2 (12)
28 N

where N stands for sewing thread count (cotton count). Stitch Putting values of X, Y, and Z in Equation (10):
width can be calculated by using Equation 5: √
Cul = (1.8 × SL) + SW + (SW)2 + (0.9 × SL)2 (13)
MT
SW = B + (5)
2 Equation 13 can be used to determine the thread consumed in a
where SW, B, and MT stand for stitch width, machine bight, stitch by upper lopper. Finally, Equation 14 is derived by putting
and material thickness, respectively. Machine bight is normally values of Cn, Cul, and Cll in Equation 1:
fixed and known. In simple words, the distance of needle from
the cutter is termed as machine bight in stitch class 504. Figure
[ { √ }]
2 2
4 depicts the geometric shape of lower lopper thread. Cs = (SL + 2MT) + 2 × (0.8 × SL) + (SW) + (0.4 × SL)
The geometry of the stitch class 504 was observed carefully { √ }
and It was determined that Y (in Figure 4) represents the stitch + (1.8 × SL) + SW + (SW)2 + (0.9 × SL)2
width while X represents 0.8 times the stitch length. Thread con-
(14)
sumption of lower lopper can be determined by using Equation 6:
Hence,
Cll = 2(X + Z) (6) √
Cs = (2 × MT) + (4.4 × SL) + SW + (SW)2 + (0.9 × SL)2
First of all, Z has to be calculated as it is an unknown quantity: ( √ )(15)
√ + 2 × (SW)2 + (0.4 × SL)2
( )2
X (7)
Z= Y2 +
2

Figure 4. Lower lopper thread (i) Actual geometry (ii) Drawn geometry. Figure 5. Upper lopper thread (i) Actual geometry (ii) Drawn geometry.
 4   A. RASHEED ET AL.

Equation 15 can be used to determine the thread consumed in
a stitch for stitch class 504.
Model validation
The second part of this research was to validate the proposed
model. For this purpose, 24 samples were prepared by using an
over lock machine (Pegasus-M752). The machine was a single
needle, three threads, and the bight of the machine was 0.5 cm.
There were three variables i.e. fabric type, material thickness,
and stitch density. Two types of fabrics were used in this study.
Fabric A was a plain woven fabric with 30 ends per cm and 22
picks per cm. The linear density of warp and weft yarns were 20
tex. Fabric B was also a plain woven fabric with 22 ends per cm
Table 1. Design of experiment for model validation.
Sr. # Fabric type Material thickness (cm) Stitch density (SPC)
1 A 0.07 3
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and 16 picks per cm. The linear density of warp and weft yarns
was 60 tex and 45 tex, respectively. Ariel densities of the fabric
A and fabric B were 131 and 235 g/m2, respectively.
Staple spun polyester sewing thread (Coats – Astra) of 40 tex
was used. Three levels of material thickness for each fabric were
used which are 7, 14, & 21 mm for fabric A and 9, 19, and 31 mm
for fabric B. Four levels of stitch density were selected i.e. 3 spc,
4 spc, 5 spc, and 6 spc. A full factorial design of experiment is
shown in Table 1. Material thickness was determined by using a
digital thickness meter following standard test method D1777-
96, A. (2015)
Each sample was made 16 cm long and it was cut into 10 cm
for further utilization. Then, all the seams were unraveled. The
length of each thread (needle thread, lower lopper thread, and
upper lopper thread) was determined separately. Then these
lengths were added to find out the actual thread consumption in
10 cm of the seam. After that predicted thread consumption was
determined by using the proposed model. Same parameters were
used to calculate the predicted values. Table 2 illustrates the actual

2 A 0.07 4
3 A 0.07 5 and predicted thread consumption along with the relative error.
4 A 0.07 6
5 A 0.14 3
The average relative error was determined to be 6% which is
6 A 0.14 4 reasonably high. A careful analysis of the geometry revealed that
7 A 0.14 5 the thread consumption is increased when the stitch density is
8 A 0.14 6
9 A 0.21 3
increased. It was found that more thread is consumed with high
10 A 0.21 4 stitch density because the thread has to cover longer passage
11 A 0.21 5 (curves) in the direction of stitch width. The model was revised
12 A 0.21 6
13 B 0.09 3
keeping in view this fact. In this regard, the value of stitch width
14 B 0.09 4 is modified by adjusting the value of bight. A 10% increase was
15 B 0.09 5 added in bight at each step and the revised values are 0.45, 0.5,
16 B 0.09 6
17 B 0.19 3
0.55, and 0.6 for SPC 3, 4, 5, and 6, respectively. The consumption
18 B 0.19 4 was predicted again and the relative error was determined to be
19 B 0.19 5 2.4%. Comparison of actual and predicted thread consumption
20 B 0.19 6
21 B 0.31 3
is shown in Figure 6.
22 B 0.31 4 Actual thread consumption (x-axis) is plotted against pre-
23 B 0.31 5 dicted thread consumption (y-axis). Linear regression is applied
24 B 0.31 6
and a line is fitted to the data. The R-square value of the fitted

Table 2. Comparison of actual and predicted thread consumption.

Actual thread consumption/ Predicted thread Predicted thread consump-

Sample code cm (cm) consumption/cm (cm) Relative error (%) tion/cm after revision (cm) Relative error (%)
1 10.4 10.80 3.8 10.22 1.7
2 13.35 12.77 4.4 12.77 4.4
3 15.56 14.77 5.1 15.76 1.3
4 19.12 16.79 12.2 19.17 0.3
5 10.91 11.68 7.1 11.10 1.8
6 14.15 13.96 1.3 13.96 1.3
7 17.08 16.27 4.8 17.26 1.0
8 20.95 18.59 11.3 20.98 0.1
9 11.6 12.65 9.1 12.07 4.1
10 15.47 15.26 1.3 15.26 1.3
11 18.87 17.90 5.1 18.89 0.1
12 22.63 20.55 9.2 22.94 1.4
13 10.39 11.07 6.6 10.50 1.0
14 13.28 13.14 1.0 13.14 1.0
15 16.22 15.24 6.0 16.23 0.1
16 19.3 17.35 10.1 19.74 2.3
17 11.03 12.29 11.5 11.71 6.2
18 14.38 14.78 2.8 14.78 2.8
19 17.55 17.29 1.5 18.29 4.2
20 21.38 19.82 7.3 22.21 3.9
21 12.21 13.61 11.4 13.02 6.7
22 15.95 16.54 3.7 16.54 3.7
23 19.75 19.50 1.2 20.50 3.8
24 24.05 22.48 6.5 24.87 3.4

Figure 6. Fitted line plot between actual consumption & predicted consumption.
line is 0.992 which means that the variation between the two data
sets is very small. The high value of R-square verifies the model
accuracy and depicts that the model has taken into account all
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the variable on which the thread consumption depends.
Sensitivity analysis
The effect of different parameters on the output variable was
studied by using sensitivity analysis (Rasheed et al., 2014). Two
variables were taken into account which is stitch density and
material thickness. Stitch width was kept constant as it depends
on machine bight which is usually fixed. The effect of each input
variable at its minimum and maximum values was studied keep-
ing all the other factors constant at their mean level. The contri-
bution ratio of the input variables was determined by using the
Equation 16.
Predicted range of response by input variables
CR = (16)
Overall actual range of response variable
Contribution ratio percentage was determined by using Equation
17. The relevant data is given in Table 3 and Table 4.
CR of a single input variable
CR% = ∑
CR of all input variables
The results of the sensitivity analysis are shown in Figure 7.
Stitch density has more impact on the total thread consump-
tion. It means that the total thread consumption is more sen-
sitive to change in stitch density. In this case, the contribution
ratio of stitch density was around 62%. On the other hand,
material thickness has also a contribution ratio of 38%. Stitch
Table 3. Minimum, maximum, and mean levels of Input variables.
Input variable Minimum Maximum
Material thickness (cm) 0.07 0.31
Stitch density (spc) 3 6
Table 4. Range of output variable.
O/Put variable Min. level Max. level
Predicted thread consumption 10.39 24.05
THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE   5
Figure 7. CR % of input variables on thread consumption.
density has more impact because stitch class 504 is made by
using 3 different threads. Each thread has its own path but the
path of lopper thread is very curvy therefore a little increase in
stitch density contributes significantly towards the total thread
consumption.
Conclusion
The accuracy of the proposed geometric model is 99%, there-
fore, this model can be used to predict the required sewing
thread accurately. Stitch class 504 consumes 10–25 cm of sew-
ing thread per centimeter. The thread consumption depends
upon stitch density, material thickness, and stitch width. Thread
consumption has a direct relationship with stitch density, mate-
rial thickness, and stitch width. Needle thread consumption
has the lowest contribution (17%) while both the loppers con-
sume almost the same amount of thread (41.5%). The sensitiv-
ity analysis revealed that material thickness affects the thread
consumption 38% while stitch density has 62% contribution in
total thread consumption. Stitch width was kept constant in this
study; however, another study can be conducted to understand
(17) the effect of stitch width.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.
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