OSSA Five Speed - Workshop Manual

OSSA works manual
PART A: ENGINE
OSSA
Works
Chapter 1: Disassembly of the Engine Page
manual
by: Paul Dean Section 1: Removing the Cylinder and Piston 1
webified Section 2: Removing the Magneto Side Components 3
by: Bruce Section 3: Removing the Primary Drive Components 4
Langdon
Section 4: Parting the Engine Cases 8
Index 1
Index 2
Section 5: Removing the Gearbox Components 10
page 1 Section 6: Removing the Crankshaft and Bearings 11
page 2 Chapter 2: Repairing the Engine Components
page 3 Section 1: Repairing the Crankshaft Assembly 13
page 4 Section 2: How the Transmission Works -
page 5
(A) Terminology - Locating and Identifying the Components 15
page 6
(B) Power Transmission Through the Gears 21
page 7
page 8 Section 3: Checking the Gearbox Components for Wear 27
page 9 Section 4: Shimming and Gear Engagement 36
page 10 Section 5: Repairing the Cylinder and Piston 48
page 11 Section 6: Piston Sizing Information 53
page 12 Section 7: Installing a New Cylinder Liner 54
page 13
Chapter 3: Reassembly of the Engine
page 14
page 15 Section 1: Installation of New Bearings and Bushings 56
page 16 Section 2: Alignment of the Crankshaft 59
page 17 Section 3: Reassembling the Engine Cases 64
page 18 Section 4: Installing the Primary Side Components 66
page 19 Section 5: Installing the Top End Components 76
page 20
Section 6: Installing the Magneto Side Components and Timingthe Magneto 81
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
PART B: CARBURETION
page 25
page 26
page 27 Chapter 1: Operation Page
page 28 Section 1: Metering Systems 87
page 29 Double Needle Carburetors
http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:44:04 a.m.

OSSA works manual
page 30 Section 2: 0 to 1/8 Throttle: The Pilot Metering System 89

page 31 Section 3: 1/8 to 1/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway and Mid-Range Needle 91
page 32
Section 4: 1/4 to 1/2 Throttle: Slide and Mid-Range MeteringSystem " 93
page 33
Section 5: 1/2 to 3/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway and High SpeedNeedle 97
page 34
page 35 Section 6: 3/4 to Full Throttle: Slide and High Speed Main Jet 99
page 36 Section 7: The Float Metering Device 100
page 37 Single Needle Carburetors
page 38 Section 8: 0 to 1/8 Throttle: The Pilot Metering System 103
page 39
Section 9: 1/8 to 1/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway and Needle Jet 105
page 40
Section 10: 1/4 to 3/4 Throttle: Slide Needle Position and BoosterSystem 107
page 41
page 42
Section 11: 3/4 to Full Throttle: Slide and Main Jet 109
page 43 Section 12: The Float Metering Device 109
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA Chapter 2: Adjustment and Tuning of the Carburetor Page

Works Section 1: Locating the Problem 110
manual Section 2: Rough Tuning 110
by: Paul Dean
Section 3: Fine Tuning 113
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon PART C: ELECTRICS
Index 1
Index 2
Section 1: Operation of the Motoplat Electrics 115
page 1
Section 2: Testing the Ignition System 115
page 2
page 3 Section 3: How the Charging System Works 118
page 4 Section 4: Checking the Charging Circuit 119
page 5 Wiring Diagram 124A
page 6
page 7
PART D: FRONT SUSPENSION & STEERING
page 8
page 9
Chapter 1: Changing the Oil 125
page 10
page 11 Chapter 2: Repair of the Forks and Steering
page 12 Section 1: Removal of the Forks and Steering Components 128
page 13 Section 2: Disassembly of the Forks 132
page 14 Section 3: Reassembly of the Steering Components 135
page 15
Section 4: Reassembling the Forks 138
page 16
Section 5: Reassembly of the Front Suspension 142
page 17
page 18
page 19 PART E: SPECIFICATIONS
page 20
page 21 Specifications and Data 147
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
Part A: ENGINE
OSSA
Works Part A will cover the disassembly, repair, and reassembly of the engine and its
manual components. The instructions are sequenced so that they cover a complete engine
by: Paul Dean repair. However, if you desire to service only one particular component of the engine,
webified and it does not require complete disassembly of the engine, refer to the chapter and
by: Bruce section that pertains to that component.
Langdon It is advisable to clean the entire motorcycle before removing the engine. It is easier to
Index 1 work on a clean motorcycle, and always results in a more efficient, satisfying repair
Index 2 job.
page 1 Locate or grind large screwdrivers so that their tips will fit the OSSA engine screws
page 2 perfectly. Failure to do this will result in damage to the screw heads and just make the
page 3 chore of their removal and replacement more difficult. Most cycle shops sell impact
page 4 screwdriver kits which allow you to loosen and tighten engine screws efficiently and
page 5 without damage to them.
page 6
page 7
page 8 CHAPTER 1:
page 9
page 10 DISASSEMBLY OF THE ENGINE
page 11
page 12 Section 1:
page 13
page 14 Removing The Cylinder And Piston
page 15
page 16
1. Clean the exterior of the engine carefully, and if it is going to be completely
disassembled, drain the oil from the gearbox by removing the 17mm plug from the
page 17
bottom side of the engine cases. After removing the plug, slowly tilt the engine from
page 18
right to left and from front to back. This will allow the oil to reach the drain hole from
page 19 behind the several obstructions which would normally block its flow. After the oil has
page 20 been allowed to drain from the engine, check the condition of the drain plug gasket
page 21 and, replace it with a new one if needed. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten it.
page 22 2. Remove the spark plug.
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
FIG. 1
page 53
page 54
3. From the top of the cylinder head, viewing the front of the head as being 12 o'clock
page 55
on the face of a clock, use a 12mm socket to loosen the four cylinder head nuts 1/4
page 56 turn each in the following sequence:
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60 Page 1
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
10 o'clock - 4 o'clock - 2 o'clock - 8 o'clock, as illustrated by Figure 1. Using the same

OSSA sequence, loosen the nuts another 1/4 turn each.
Works
manual NOTE: If you do not follow this procedure, you run the risk of warping the cylinder
by: Paul Dean head.
webified
by: Bruce 4. Now remove the cylinder head nuts and washers and lift off the cylinder head
Langdon gasket. Usually, the aluminum head gasket will stick to the head upon removal, so just
Index 1 pry it loose with your fingers.
Index 2
page 1 5. Remove the cylinder slowly enough so as not to break the cylinder base gasket,
page 2 being careful to support the piston so that it cannot fall against the engine cases or
page 3 cylinder studs. You do not want to use the base gasket over again, but if you are not
page 4
disassembling the lower end of the engine, you must be careful to keep the gasket from
breaking, as a piece from it or a piece of dirt on it might fall into the crankcase.
page 5
page 6
NOTE: If you are disassembling an engine that has been run under extremely dirty or
page 7
moist conditions, and you intend to remove only the cylinder and piston for repair, turn
page 8 the engine upside-down for removal of the cylinder. Engines run under these
page 9 conditions sometimes accumulate mud and rust in the holes through which the cylinder
page 10 studs pass. If you remove the cylinder right side up, this dirt will fall in the crankcase
page 11 and main bearing oil passages.
page 12
page 13 6. Wrap a clean shop rag around the connecting rod so that it covers the entire
page 14 crankcase opening. This is just to prevent the wristpin clips from falling into the
page 15 crankcase while you are removing them. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the
page 16 clips from the piston and discard them. It is not advisable to reuse the wristpin clips.
page 17
page 18 7. Butt the OSSA wristpin drift, part No. 999-202 against one end of the wristpin.
page 19 Support the piston with one hand to prevent any side loading of the connecting rod.
With the palm of the other hand, push against the wristpin guide to slide the wristpin
page 20
out of the piston (Fig. 2). If the wristpin is tight and will
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
FIG. 2
page 47
page 48
not move, remove the guide and use a wristpin pushing tool to remove the wristpin
page 49
(Fig. 3). Do not attempt to remove the wristpin by hitting the guide with a mallet.
page 50 Under normal operating conditions, the connecting rod does not receive any side
page 51 loading, therefore, it is not designed to withstand them. Even gentle tapping against the
page 52 wristpin guide with a mallet could bend the rod or mar the rod bearing.
page 53
page 54 8. Remove the wristpin guide (or driver) from the piston. Remove the piston and the
page 55 needle bearing from the rod.
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59 Page 2
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
FIG. 3
page 13
9. Remove the cylinder base gasket if it did not come off with the cylinder.
page 14
page 15
Section 2:
page 16
page 17
Removing The Magneto Side Components
page 18
page 19
1. Remove the four screws securing the magneto side engine cover. This cover is
page 20
located by two small hollow guide pins which may hold it firm to the engine case. To
page 21 pry it loose, simply push the clutch actuating arm inward. This will force the magneto
page 22 cover outward, pushing it off the guide pins. After removing the cover, be careful not
page 23 to lose the clutch actuating plunger, which is the small cylindrical shaped piece that
page 24 fits into the clutch actuating mechanism on the inside of the case.
page 25
page 26 2. Fit the OSSA flywheel holding tool No.999-206 into the two holes or slots in the
page 27 magneto flywheel. Using a 26mm socket, remove the magneto flywheel nut. (Fig. 4)
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
FIG. 4
page 47
page 48 3. You must have the proper puller to remove the magneto flywheel. Puller No. 114-
page 49 950-Ml fits all 1970 Stiletto flywheels. Puller No. 115-970 fits all Pioneers and
page 50 Plonkers from 1968 to 1972 and 1968, 1969, and 1971 Stilettos.
page 51
page 52 4. Screw the puller into the threads provided in the magneto flywheel. It is important
page 53 that the center bolt of the puller be backed out far enough to allow the puller to be
page 54 screwed in all the way, or five to six turns. Failure to do this can result in the threads
page 55 being destroyed on the puller, or the flywheel, or both.
page 56
page 57 5. To turn the center bolt of the puller, use a 12mm box end wrench or socket. Turn the
page 58 bolt clockwise until the flywheel is freed from
page 59
page 60
page 61
Page 3
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
the crankshaft (Fig. 5). Remove the flywheel. Unscrew the puller from the flywheel,
OSSA and remove the flywheel nut lock washer from beneath the puller.
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11 FIG. 5
page 12
page 13 6. With a small sharp chisel and a hammer, scribe a line across the edges of the
magneto stator plate and one of its mounting bosses (Fig. 6). This will be used as a
page 14
reference when reassembling the engine.
page 15
page 16
7. Remove the three screws that mount the stator to the engine case. Remove the
page 17
10mm bolt that holds the magneto wire securing strap and remove the strap. Remove
page 18 the stator and place it inside the magneto flywheel to prevent damage to either.
page 19
page 20 8. Using a small screwdriver and hammer, gently tap the end of the woodruff key on
page 21 the crankshaft, until it is out of the key slot. Check the key for damage and wear, and if
page 22 it shows signs of either, discard it. If you keep it, find a point on the magneto flywheel
page 23 where the magnetism is fairly strong and store the key there.
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
FIG. 6
page 47
page 48
9. Remove the rubber selector shaft cover and felt washer from the right hand end of
page 49
the selector shaft.
page 50
page 51
page 52
Section 3:
page 53
page 54 Removing The Primary Drive Components
page 55
page 56
page 57 1. With a 10mm wrench, loosen the bolt that mounts the foot shift lever to its shaft.
page 58 Remove the bolt from the lever and remove the leverand the small felt dust washer
page 59 from theshaft.
page 60
page 61 2. With an 11mm wrench, loosen the bolt that mounts the kick starter lever to its shaft.
page 62 Remove the bolt from the lever and remove the lever from the shaft.
page 63
page 64 3. With a large screwdriver or impact screwdriver, loosen and remove the 10 screws
that mount the primary case to the engine case. Using the same large screwdriver, pry
page 65
the primary case loose by putting the blade of the
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69 Page 4
OSSA works manual
screwdriver beneath the edge of the small inspection cover on the case, and the shaft of
OSSA the screwdriver on the end of the kick starter shaft as shown in Figure 7. Pry it until
Works you can get your fingers under the case, then pull the cover outward to remove it.
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 7
page 13
page 14 4. Remove the primary case gasket and the two locating guide pins. If these pins are
page 15
stuck in their holes, they may be left in, but care should be exercised when handling
the engine to avoid damage to them.
page 16
page 17
5. Remove the spring washer and the flat washer from the selector shaft
page 18
.
page 19 6. Using needle nosed pliers, straighten and remove the five cotterpins from their studs
page 20 on the clutch assembly.
page 21
page 22 7. With a spanner screwdriver, remove the five clutch spring nuts. Remove the springs
page 23 and
page 24 spring cups.
page 25
page 26 NOTE: The spanner screwdriver can be made by cutting a notch in the tip of a large
page 27 screwdriver as shown in Figure 7A. If this is not possible, the nuts can be loosened
page 28 with needle nose pliers, being careful not to damage the slots in the nuts. Just use the
page 29 pliers to loosen the.nuts until they are slightly higher

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48 FIG. 7A
page 49
page 50 than flush with the ends of the studs. A regular screwdriver will then be sufficient to
page 51 remove the nuts.
page 52
page 53 8. Remove all of the clutch plates. The last, or inner clutch plate will probably remain
page 54 in the assembly. Using two very small thin screwdrivers, remove this plate by putting
page 55 the screwdrivers under the plate 1800 across from each other, and lifting it out.
page 56
page 57
9. There are two clutch push rods that run through the center of the transmission main
shaft. These push rods are separated by a small ball bearing. Remove the left hand
page 58
push rod by tilting the engine so that the primary drive side is facing downward.
page 59
Slowly withdraw the left
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63 Page 5
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

Page 6
http://hem.spray.se/manyb/Page6.htm27/07/2009 11:49:55 a.m.

OSSA works manual
into the crankshaft threads (Fig. 10). Then, fit the spanner tool, No. 999-215 to the
OSSA cush
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11 FIG. 10
page 12
page 13 drive shaft (Fig. 11). Finally, install the cush drive puller, No. 999-213, and push it
page 14 down far enough to expose the groove around the top of the cush drive shaft. Fit the
page 15
two collars
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
FIG. 11
page 49
page 50 to the groove in the shaft (Fig. 12) and turn the handle of the puller clockwise until it
page 51 pulls up tight against the collars. Holding the
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70 FIG. 12
page 71
page 72 spanner wrench in one hand, tighten the handle of the puller with the other hand. You
page 73 may wish to use a short section of pipe on the handle of the puller for additional
page 74 leverage. Do this until you feel the cush drive shaft snap loose from the crankshaft.
page 75 Remove the puller, spanner and thread protector and finally, the cush drive shaft.
page 76
page 77 16. With a pair of external snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the kick starter
shaft. It is recommended that this snap ring be discarded every time it is removed and
page 78
replaced with a new one. Remove the large washer beneath the snap ring.
page 79
page 80
17. Using a large screwdriver, free the looped end of the kick starter return spring from
page 81
its mount in the case. Be careful not to let it fly off the shaft and hit you in the face or
page 82 hand.
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86 Page7
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

Page 8
http://hem.spray.se/manyb/Page8.htm27/07/2009 11:51:14 a.m.

OSSA works manual
holes. From the left side, using a suitable type drift pin and a small hammer, gently tap
OSSA these pins out of their holes (Fig. 14).
Works
manual NOTE: A short piece of 3/8" rod can be used as a drift for removing the front pin. A
by: Paul Dean similar piece of 1/2" rod will suffice for the two rear pins.
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14 FIG. 14
page 15
5. With the left side of the engine still facing upward, gently tap the right end of the
page 16
crankshaft with a rubber or plastic mallet until the cases begin to separate. Then, grasp
page 17
the left case with your hands and slowly, but firmly, lift if off (Fig. 15). The crankshaft
page 18
will remain in the left hand case; the transmission should remain intact in the right
page 19 hand case. The transmission shafts may try to stay in the left case. If they do so, gently
page 20 push them back down into the right hand case while you are lifting the left case off. Do
page 21 not allow any of the shafts, other than the crankshaft, to be withdrawn more than 1/4"
page 22 from the right hand case. If this occurs, it could allows shims to fall off the right end of
page 23 the shafts, making
page 24 them difficult to identify when you reassemble the gearbox.
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
FIG. 15
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
6. After you remove the left engine case and before you set it aside, check inside of the
page 52
case on the mounting bosses of the mainshaft, layshaft, shift drum, and kick starter
page 53
shaft. Occasionally, shims will stick to these bosses when the case is removed. If they
page 54 have done so, remove them and put them on their respective shafts.
page 55
page 56 7. Remove the crankshaft shimming washers from either the right end of the
page 57 crankshaft or the right main bearing and tag them.
page 58
page 59 NOTE: The amount of play in each shaft in the gearbox and crankshaft is important.
page 60 The factory adjusts each gearbox separately, adding shim washers where needed to
page 61 gain the proper end play and gear engagement. The crankshaft is also individually
page 62 adjusted for proper centering and end play. These shims come in different thicknesses.
page 63 Do not get the shims mixed up, as this will make the job of reassembly more difficult.
page 64
page 65
page 66
Page 9
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 5:
Works
manual Removing The Gearbox Components
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce 1. Turn the right hand engine case so that the transmission shafts are pointed upward at
Langdon a 450 angle (Fig. 16). Remove the center case gasket and throw it away. Lift off the
Index 1 slotted plastic breather tube.
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17 FIG. 16
page 18
page 19 2. Rotate the kick starter shaft clockwise until you can pull the whole assembly out of
page 20 the right hand engine case. Lift the assembly out, making sure you have not lost any of
page 21 the shim washers on either end of the shaft.
page 22
page 23 3. Remove the selector shaft by pulling it straight out. There are normally no shim
page 24 washers on the right end of the selector shaft.
page 25
page 26 4. It is easiest to remove the remainder of the gearbox components as.a unit. To do
page 27 this, grasp the layshaft and mainshaft with your left hand and the shift drum and shift
page 28
fork shaft
with your right hand. You should now be able to surround this cluster of parts by
page 29
extending your thumbs and fingers around them. With a smooth steady pull, lift the

OSSA works manual
page 30 whole assembly up and out of the right hand engine case as shown in Figure 17. The
page 31 far right hand gear on the mainshaft will remain in the case. This is the 5th driven gear.
page 32 Check the mounting bosses on the right hand case for shims. Be very careful not to
page 33 lose or mix-up any of the shimming washers.
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51 FIG. 17
page 52
page 53 5. Remove the two needle bearings and spacer from the inside of the 5th driven gear.
page 54 Using a mallet and a chisel, pry up the sprocket nut tab washer on the outside of the
page 55 right engine case. Fit the appropriate OSSA gearbox sprocket spanner to the sprocket.
page 56
Part No. UD10-999-207 is used for 12 tooth sprockets. Part No. UD11-999-207 is used
for 11 and 13 tooth sprockets. As shown in Figure 18, using the OSSA sprocket nut
page 57
wrench No. 999-205, rotate the sprocket nut clockwise to loosen it.
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61 Page 10
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8 FIG. 18
page 9
page 10 6. Remove the nut, washer and sprocket. Tap the end of the 5th driven gear with a soft
page 11 faced mallet until it is free of the bearing. Finally, remove the sprocket distance spacer
page 12 from the inside of the transmission oil seal.
page 13
page 14 7. If you wish to remove the small oil seal from the center of the 5th driven gear, pry it
page 15
loose with one of the clutch push rods.
page 16
page 17
Section 6:
page 18
page 19
Removing The Crankshaft and Bearings
page 20
page 21
page 22 1. All of the bearings and bushings in the OSSA engine are to be removed and
page 23 installed by heating the engine cases. This allows the bearings to be gently pushed
page 24 from their mounts and new ones reinstalled without any force whatsoever being
page 25 applied to them.
page 26
page 27 NOTE: Do not drive or press the bearings in or out. This can only result in damage to
page 28 the bearings and perhaps destruction of the engine cases. If any of the bearings or
page 29 bushings cannot

OSSA works manual
page 30 2. Heat the primary side engine case with an oven or a small electric stove for about 10
page 31 minutes, or until the case temperature reaches approximately 2500 - 3000F. If a stove
page 32 is not available, you may heat the cases with a torch. If you do so, it is important to
page 33 keep the torch moving to avoid concentrating the flame on one area, and to heat the
page 34 whole case evenly. Do not over heat the cases, as they may distort after reaching a
page 35 certain temperature. Even if you wish to remove only the crankshaft bearings, heat the
entire case to prevent its warpage.
page 36
page 37
3. If you wish to reuse the crankshaft seals, be careful not to allow the flame of the
page 38
torch to come in direct contact with them or they will be damaged due to excessive
page 39
heat.
page 40
page 41 NOTE: It is not recommended that crankshaft seals be reused. They are inexpensive
page 42 and should be renewed every time the crankshaft is removed or the crankcases parted.
page 43
page 44 4. When the left hand engine case has been heated to the desired temperature, wrap a
page 45 cloth around the magneto side drive shaft and pull the crankshaft assembly out of the
page 46 case. The primary side main bearing will remain on the crankshaft. If the crankshaft
page 47 will not pull out, support the case on a small wooden box so that the crank is hanging
page 48 freely, and push it out of the case (Fig. 19). If necessary, tap the end of the primary
page 49 side drive shaft gently with a rawhide or plastic mallet to remove it.
page 50
page 51
page 52
Page 11
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7 FIG. 19
page 8
page 9 5. If the transmission mainshaft bearing or layshaft bushing in the primary side engine
case are to be removed for replacement, do so now while the cases are still heated. The
page 10
bearing can be removed by pushing or gently tapping it with a plastic or rawhide
page 11
mallet. The bushing should be removed in the same manner, using a drift to tap it out.
page 12
page 13
6. To remove the bearinqs and bushings from the magneto side engine case, heat the
page 14 case in the same manner as the primary side case. When it is sufficiently warm, gently
page 15 tap the bearings from their mounts using a mallet and a suitable drift.
page 16
page 17 7. The layshaft bushing in the magneto side case is in a hole that does not go all the
page 18 way through the case. To remove it, turn the case so that the bushing is facing
page 19 downward toward the top of a wooden bench. Tap the case gently against the bench. If
page 20 the cases are sufficiently warm and you strike the top of the bench squarely with the
page 21 inner edge of the case, the bushing will fall out with two or three taps.
page 22
page 23 8. To remove either of the crankshaft seals or the transmission drive bearing seals,
page 24 lightly tap them with a mallet and suitable drift, pushing them out from inside the
page 25
cases. An easy way to make a drift for this is to locate a 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket
whose outside diameter is just slightly smaller than that of the seal. Fit an extension to
page 26
the socket and use a soft faced mallet to neatly tap the seals from their mounts.
page 27
page 28
9. If the main bearing must be removed from the primary side of the crankshaft, it can
page 29 be pried loose using two large screwdrivers or two pry bars as shown in Figure 20.

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49 FIG. 20
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53 Page 12
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
NOTE: The removal of this bearing requires that it be pried off using pressure beneath
OSSA its outer race. However, it is mounted to the crankshaft by means of a slight press fit at
Works its inner race. This means that the side loading caused by the prying is totally absorbed
manual by the balls in the bearing. This loading can microscopically mar the races or the balls
and cause premature failure of the bearing. For this reason, do not reuse the primary
by: Paul Dean
side main bearing once it has been pried off the crankshaft.
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon 10. If any shimming washers were fitted between the primary side main bearing and
Index 1 the flywheel, remove them from the crank and tag them.
Index 2
page 1
page 2 CHAPTER 2:
page 3
page 4 REPAIRING THE ENGINE COMPONENTS
page 5
page 6 Section 1:
page 7
page 8 Repairing The Crankshaft Assembly
page 9
page 10
1. All of the repairs that would be necessary on an OSSA crankshaft require the use of
quite a few special tools. First, a press with a capacity of at least 15 tons is needed. A
page 11
fixture for pressing apart the flywheels is required, along with a very special alignment
page 12
jig for pressing them together. A set of machinists centers fitted with two dial
page 13 indicators are also needed to check for alignment after reassembly of the crankshaft.
page 14 For these reasons, we strongly recommend that you give the crankshaft to your OSSA
page 15 dealer for repair. If he does not have the equipment to do it, he can send it to the OSSA
page 16 distributor where a complete duplicate set of factory assembly line tools is used to
page 17 facilitate any or all crankshaft repairs.
page 18
page 19 2. The crankshaft can be said to need repairs when:
page 20
page 21 A. The connecting rod is damaged.
page 22 B. The flywheels are not aligned within the given tolerances.
page 23 C. When either flywheel is damaged.
page 24
D. When the connecting rod, crankpin and bearing are worn or
damaged.
page 25
E. When the connecting rod's small end (wristpin) hole is worn or
page 26
damaged.
page 27
page 28 3. The crankshaft flywheels must be in near perfect alignment to assure prooer bearing
page 29 and seal life, engine balance and ignition timing. If a set of machinists centers or a

OSSA works manual
page 30 reasonable substitute is available, mount the crankshaft in them as shown in Figure 21.
page 31 Measured at the
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
FIG. 21
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54 Page 13
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
point where the main bearings mount on either side of the crankshaft, there should be
OSSA no more than .001" run-out of the flywheels. If there is more, or you suspect
Works misalignment of the crankshaft, but have no equipment for checking it, give the
manual complete crankshaft assembly to your OSSA dealer for inspection and repair.
by: Paul Dean
webified 4. If the amount of clearance in the connecting rod big end bearing has become
by: Bruce excessive, it will need replacement. If you can detect a roughness in the bearing, or
Langdon any perceptible up and down play in the connecting rod, it should be replaced. When
Index 1 replacing the big end bearing, it should be done as an assembly, that is, a new
Index 2 connecting rod, crankpin, rollers and roller cage. This is necessary because the rod is
page 1 the outer bearing race, and the crankpin is the inner bearing race. To replace one of
these without replacing them all is a waste of time and money, as the life expectancy
page 2
of such a bearing assembly would be extremely short.
page 3
page 4
5. The wristpin bearing should also be checked for damage or wear. Clean the inside
page 5
of the small end of the connecting rod, the wristpin and the wristpin bearing. Put the
page 6 bearing into the small end of the connecting rod, then insert the wristpin. Position the
page 7 wristpin so that the area of the pin that the needle bearings ride on is centered in the
page 8 bearing. Hold the rod firmly with one hand, and try moving the wristpin in all
page 9 directions to check for clearance (Fig. 22). If you can detect any noticeable play in this
page 10 assembly, replace the wristpin and bearing and check it again. If no noticeable play is
page 11 then evident, the old connecting rod assembly can be retained, using a new wristpin
page 12 and bearing.
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
FIG. 22
page 50
page 51 NOTE: Unlike the crankpin bearing assembly, the wristpin need not be replaced as a
page 52 complete assembly. This is due to the fact that the crankpin bearing is subjected to
page 53 heavy loads and direction changes while turning at a high RPM. The wristpin bearing
page 54 is subjected to heavy loads and direction changes, but instead of rotating 3600 on
page 55 every revolution of the engine, it merely oscillates back and forth in an arc of less than
page 56 300. For this reason, individual components of the wristpin bearing can be installed to
page 57 obtain the proper clearance, provided the components being reused are in good shape.
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
Page 14
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
Section 2:
OSSA
Works How The Transmission Works
manual
by: Paul Dean This section will allow you to properly identify all the components of the transmission and selector mechanism, and
webified understand how each one of them functions as an essential part of the whole unit.
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
A. Terminology -
page 1
page 2 Locating And Identifying The Components
page 3
page 4 1. The two geared shafts in the gearbox are the mainshaft and the layshaft. Power is delivered to the gearbox through the
clutch, which is fitted to the left end of the mainshaft
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33 FIG. 23
page 34
page 35 There are five gears on the mainshaft, (Fig. 23) one of which can be slid back and forth to engage the gear on its left. This
page 36 engagement is done by small pegs on the sides of the gears. These pegs are called engaging dogs. The mainshaft also
page 37 utilizes a separate gear engaging device called a sliding dog.
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41 Page 15
page 42
page 43

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
FIG. 24
page 8
page 9
2. The layshaft is the other geared shaft (Fig. 24). Its primary function is to provide a means of changing ratios, or shaft
page 10
speed. It also has one gear which can be slid back and forth to engage the gears on either side of it.
page 11
page 12 3. The sliding gears and sliding dog are moved back and forth by shifting forks. (Fig. 25). There are three of these in the
page 13 gearbox, two on the mainshaft and one on the layshaft. The shifting forks fit into machined grooves on the sliding gears
page 14 and sliding dog. These grooves allow the gear or dog to rotate while being held in place by the forks. The shifting forks
page 15 slide back and forth on the shifter fork shaft.
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
FIG. 25
page 32
page 33 4. The shifting forks are actuated by the shifting drum (Fig. 26). The shifting forks have a small round peg machined on
page 34 each one of them. These pegs fit into grooves cut into the surface of the shift drum. Each shifting fork has its own
page 35 groove. When the shifting drum is rotated, the grooves move the forks back and forth, engaging the correct gears. The
page 36 drum is cut so that only one fork moves at a time, and only one gear or shifting dog is engaged at a time.
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
FIG. 26
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63 Page 16
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95

OSSA works manual
5. The shifting drum has six depressions, or dimples machined into its right end (Fig. 27).
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11 FIG. 27
page 12
page 13 There are five large ones and one small one. These dimples are called detent holes. When the transmission is in any one
page 14 gear, a spring loaded plunger fits into one of these holes, holding the drum in position so that vibration or other forces
page 15 cannot jar it out of gear. There is one large hole for each gear, and one small hole for neutral. The device that contains
the plunger also has a spring, a large-headed hollow screw and a nylon sealing washer. This device is called the detent
page 16
assembly, and fits into the threaded hole on the lower right rear side of the right engine case (Fig. 28).
page 17
page 18
6. The shifting drum has four round pegs protruding from its left end. These pegs are called selector pins (Fig. 26). They
page 19
are part of the means by which the shifting drum is turned.
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67 FIG. 28
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71 Page 17
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15 FIG. 29
page 16
page 17 7. The shifting drum is actually turned by the movement of the selector shaft assembly (Fig. 29). This is
page 18 the shaft onto which the gearshift lever is bolted. Because this shaft passes all the way through the engine,
page 19 a shift lever may be bolted to either end.
page 20
page 21 8. The selector shaft assembly is comprised of the selector shaft itself, a spring loaded selector pawl, a
page 22 selector return spring and a gearshift lever. When the selector shaft is rotated by moving the gearshift
page 23 lever, the selector pawl engages one of the selector pins on the shift drum, and turns the drum to the next
page 24 gear postion. When the shift lever is released, the selector spring pulls the selector shaft back to its original
position. As this happens, the selector pawl, being spring loaded, snaps over top of the next selector pin
page 25
and is ready for the next gear change. The selector shaft assembly is designed so that the shift drum can
page 26
only be turned enough to engage the next closest gear every time the lever is moved. In other words, if the
page 27 transmission is in 3rd gear, one upward movement of the gearshift can only allow 4th gear to be engaged.
page 28 One downward movement can only allow engagement of 2nd gear.
page 29
page 30 9. The OSSA engine uses a foot operated, kick-type starting system. This system operates through the
page 31 mainshaft of the transmission and the kick starter assembly (Fig. 30). This assembly consists of the kick
page 32 starter shaft, a spring loaded kick starter ratchet cam, a kick starter driving gear, a kick starter return
page 33 spring, a kick starter lever and a kickstarter stop bolt, which is threaded into the right engine case.
page 34
page 35
page 36
Page 18
page 37

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20 FIG. 30
page 21
page 22 The ratchet cam and the drive gear have small matching teeth on their facing edges that, when allowed to come together,
page 23 permit the ratchet and driving gear to turn together in one direction only. When the kickstarter is not in use, a small ramp
page 24 on the ratchet cam is trapped behind the kick starter stop bolt. This ramp pulls the ratchet away from the driving gear,
thus preventing engagement of their teeth. When the kick starter lever is turned, it allows the ramp on the ratchet to move
page 25
from behind the stop bolt. This permits the ratchet to move to the left and engage its teeth with those of the driving gear.
page 26
The gear now turns as one with the kick starter shaft, and being meshed with a gear on the mainshaft, rotates the
page 27 mainshaft, which in turn rotates the crankshaft through the clutch and primary drive. The teeth on the ratchet and driving
page 28 gear are cut so that once the engine is started, the driving gear cannot turn the ratchet. If this were not so, the kick starter
page 29 lever would continue to rotate while the engine was running. When the kick starter lever is released, the return spring
page 30 rotates the shaft and ratchet back to their disengaged position. Because the driving gear is always meshed to the
page 31 mainshaft, it continues to turn freely on the kick starter shaft while the engine is running.
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35 Page 19
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
FIG. 31
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
FIG. 31
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34

OSSA works manual
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
FIG. 32
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 Page 20
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78

OSSA works manual
OSSA B. Power Transmission Through The Gears

Works
manual 1. It is important that you know how the power of the engine is transmitted through the
by: Paul Dean gears to the drive sprocket. This knowledge is essential for locating many problems
webified which would occur in a transmission of this type.
by: Bruce
Langdon 2. First, study the two photos of the transmission gears, Figures 31 and 32. Fig. 31
Index 1 shows the correct location of the gears and gives the proper name for each part. Fig. 32
Index 2 is the same picture, but a letter has been substituted for each gear name. This has been
page 1 done to avoid confusion. In the following text, an explanation is given as to the exact
page 2 function of each gear in the assembly. In some cases, this will involve repeating the
page 3 name of a gear several times in one or two sentences. By using a letter to identify each
page 4 gear, the explanation can be made much easier to understand.
page 5
page 6 3. Fig. 32 shows the gearbox in neutral. Notice that all the gears on the mainshaft are
page 7 meshed squarely with those opposing them on the layshaft. At no time will any of
these gears become unmeshed with its opposing gear, nor mesh with any other gear.
page 8
Even when the sliding gears move back and forth to their farthest point, they will
page 9
retain at least a 60% mesh with their opposing gear. This is why the gearbox is
page 10 referred to as a "constant mesh" type.
page 11
page 12 4. Some gears on each shaft are locked to their respective shafts either by splines or by
page 13 being made an integral part of the shaft. On Fig. 32, there is a printed "YES" or "NO"
page 14 above the gears on the mainshaft and below
page 15 the gears on the layshaft. This denotes whether or not that particular gear is locked to
page 16 its shaft. "YES" means it is, "NO" means it is not. Take note that if a gear is locked to
page 17 the mainshaft, its opposing gear is not locked to the layshaft. This is an important point
page 18 to remember as you learn about the power flow through the gears in the transmission.
page 19
page 20 5. 1st Gear: From the neutral position, the gearshift lever is pushed downward to
page 21 engage 1st gear. When the selector shaft turns, the selector pawl pushes downward on
one of the selector pins in the shift drum. This causes the drum to rotate
page 22
counterclockwise, looking at the left end of the drum. The grooves are ground in the
page 23
shift drum so that when this happens, the shift fork that is connected to gear I slides to
page 24 the left. Gear I has four round engaging dogs protruding from its left side. Gear J has
page 25 four oval slots cut into its right side. When gear I moves to the left, its pegs fit into the
page 26 slots in gear J, engaging them together as in Fig. 33. The other shift forks do not move,
page 27 but remain in their neutral position. The power enters the gearbox through the
page 28 mainshaft, and because gear A is locked to the shaft, it transmits the power to gear J on
page 29 the layshaft. J is not locked to the layshaft, but gear I is. Because I and J are now
locked together, the layshaft turns. On the far right hand end of the layshaft is gear F.
OSSA works manual
page 30 This gear is an integral part of the layshaft and therefore always turns at the same
page 31 speed as the shaft. Its opposing gear is E, which is not locked to the mainshaft. The
page 32 drive sprocket is also mounted
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36 Page 21
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17 FIG. 33
page 18
page 19 on the right end of gear E. When the layshaft turns, the power flows along it to gear F, which then
page 20 turns gear E, and the drive sprocket now turns. Another vital part of understanding gearbox
page 21 operation is knowing how to calculate gearbox ratios. As a final step after each gearchange, the
page 22
method for determining the ratio for that gear will be pointed out.
page 23
EXAMPLE: If gear A has 18 teeth, and gear J has 28, divide 18 into 28. 28 -- 18 = 1.55. If gear E
page 24
has 24 teeth, and gear F has 16, divide 16 into 24. 24 - 16 = 1.5. Multiply 1.55 x 1.5, and the answer
page 25
is 2.325, or the 1st gear ratio.
page 26
page 27
In 1st gear, the power is transmitted from the mainshaft to the layshaft from gear A to gear J, and
page 28 from the layshaft back up to the mainshaft from gear F to gear E. Therefore, count the number of
page 29 teeth on gear J and divide it by the number of teeth on A. Write down the result, then divide the
page 30 number of teeth on gear E by the number on F. Write that figure down. Now multiply the two
page 31 figures together, and the answer you get is the ratio for 1st gear, or the number of times the clutch
page 32 must turn in order to make the drive sprocket turn once.
page 33
page 34

OSSA works manual
6. 2nd Gear. The transmission is shifted from 1st to 2nd gear by lifting upward on the gearshift lever. This causes the
OSSA shifting pawl to move upward, turning the shift drum clockwise, looking at the left end of the drum. Gear 1 moves to the
Works right, disengaging from gear J, and returning to its neutral position. Gear C then moves to the left, engaging gear B. The
manual transmission is now in 2nd gear, as illustrated by Fig. 34. Gear C's opposing gear, H, is not locked to the layshaft, so it
just turns freely. However, gear C has engaged into gear B, therefore, the power flows from C to B, and onto the layshaft
by: Paul Dean
through gear 1, which is locked to the shaft. The layshaft now turns gear F, which drives gear E, causing the sprocket to
webified
by: Bruce rotate. To calculate the ratio for 2nd gear, divide the number of teeth on gear 1 by the number on B. Divide the number of
Langdon teeth on E by the number on F. Multiply the two resulting figures together, and the answer is the ratio of 2nd gear.
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30 FIG. 34
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34 Page 23
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:00:03 p.m.

OSSA works manual
7. 3rd Gear. The gearshift is lifted again to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear. When the selector shaft rotates, the shifter pawl
OSSA moves upward, turning the shifting drum clockwise, looking at the left end of the drum. Gear C withdraws to the right,
Works disengaging from gear B and returning to a neutral position. Gear 1 then moves to the right, engaging gear H. The
manual transmission is now in 3rd gear as shown in Fig. 35. The power flows to gear C, which is locked to the mainshaft. Its
opposing gear, H, is not locked to the layshaft, but gear 1, into which it is engaged, is locked to the shaft. Therefore, the
by: Paul Dean
power is transmitted to the layshaft, making it and gear F turn. Gear F then drives gear E, causing the drive sprocket to
webified
by: Bruce rotate. To calculate the 3rd gear ratio, divide the number of teeth on gear H by the number on gear C. Divide the number
Langdon of teeth on gear E by the number on F. Multiply the two answers together to obtain the ratio of 3rd gear.
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32 FIG. 35
page 33
page 34
page 35
Page 24
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
8. 4th Gear. To shift from 3rd to 4th gear, the gearshift is again lifted upward, causing the selector shaft to rotate. This
OSSA moves the selector pawl upward, rotating the shifting drum clockwise. This draws gear 1 to the left, disengaging it from
Works gear H, and returning it to a neutral position. The sliding dog, K, then moves to the left, engaging into gear D. The
manual transmission is now in 4th gear, as illustrated in Fig. 36. The power flows along the mainshaft to the sliding dog, which
is locked to the mainshaft, and to gear D, into which it is engaged. Gear D then drives gear G, and because G is locked to
by: Paul Dean
the mainshaft, the shaft turns along with gear F. F then turns E, causing the sprocket to rotate.
webified
by: Bruce To calculate the 4th gear ratio, divide the number of teeth on gear G by the number on gear D. Divide the number of
Langdon teeth on gear E by the number on gear F. Multiply the two answers together to obtain the ratio of 4th gear.
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
FIG. 36
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35 Page 25
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
9. 5th Gear. To shift the transmission from 4th gear to 5th gear, the gearshift is again lifted upward. The
OSSA rotation of the selector shaft causes the selector pawl to move upward, rotating the shifting drum clockwise.
Works The sliding dog, K, moves to the right, disengaging gear D. It continues to move toward the right until it
manual engages gear E. The transmission is now in 5th gear, as shown in Fig. 37. The power flows directly along the
mainshaft, as the sliding dog is locked to the shaft, and gear E is engaged into the sliding dog, making the
by: Paul Dean
mainshaft one unit. The layshaft is completely bypassed, and all other gears turn freely. Because there is no
webified
by: Bruce gear reduction in 5th gear, the ratio is 1:1 in all OSSA transmissions.
Langdon
Index 1 10. Neutral. The neutral position is located halfway between 1st and 2nd gear. To shift into neutral from 1st
Index 2 gear, the [ever is lifted gently until a slight click is felt. This is neutral. From 2nd gear, the lever is pushed
page 1 gently downward until engagement of neutral is felt. In either case, the shift lever is not moved all the way to
its limit, as this would cause engagement of the next gear. When shifting from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 1st, the
page 2
neutral position is disregarded, moving the lever right through to the desired gear. In the neutral position, all
page 3
sliding gears and dogs are in a neutral ' or disengaged position. There is no power flow from the mainshaft to
page 4 the layshaft.
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33 FIG. 37
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37 Page 26
page 38

OSSA works manual
Section 3:
OSSA
Works Checking The Gearbox Components For Wear
manual
by: Paul Dean 1 . Thoroughly clean each gearbox component and, if available, blow them dry with compressed air.
webified Carefully inspect each part for wear or damage. Any part that has a thrust or friction surface showing a blue
by: Bruce color should* be replaced. This indicates that part has been subjected to excessive heat.
Langdon
Index 1
2. Carefully check the teeth on all the gears for excessive wear or damage. If you find such damage on one
Index 2
gear, be particularly careful about inspecting its opposing gear on the other shaft, as it may be damaged also.
page 1
page 2 3. The engaging dogs on all the gears and the condition of the 4th and 5th gear sliding dog should be
page 3 inspected. If any of these dogs have excessively rounded edges, they should be
page 4 replaced. This could cause two engaging gears to "reject" each other, or miss a shift. Also, be sure that the
page 5 sliding gears and engaging dog are free to slide back and forth on their shafts.
page 6
page 7 4. If the transmission is being repaired because of broken gear teeth or a foreign object in the gearbox, or
page 8 some other breakage resulted in sudden stoppage of the gearbox and drive train, the mainshaft and layshaft
page 9 should be checked for straightness. They may have been bent due to high loading forces created when such
page 10 things occur. Place the shaft being checked in a set of machinist's centers fitted with one dial indicator, as
page 11 shown in Fig. 38. Position the indicator on the middle of the shaft and then rotate it slowly. If the indicator
page 12
shows a runout of over .001-, replace the shaft. Also, when breakages of this type occur, check the condition
of the transmission bearings and bushings.
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37

OSSA works manual
5. The 2nd and 4th gear on the main shaft, and 3rd gear on the layshaft are held in place by lock rings which fit into
OSSA grooves cut in their shafts. These lock rings can usually be moved by rotating them around the shaft. However, if any
Works lock ring can be moved up and down far enough that one of its edges comes close to being out of its groove, or if it has
manual an unusual amount of side play, replace that ring.
by: Paul Dean
webified 6. Closely inspect each shifting fork for wear. The forks each have two thrust pads on their extreme ends. These pads are
by: Bruce the only part of the fork that should make contact with the groove in the sliding gear or dog. If a gouge or a wear mark
Langdon appears on any other part of the forked end, that is a sign that the fork is either bent, or has been subjected to an
Index 1 unusually strong side loading force. In either case, replace that fork. Closely inspect the shifter fork shaft for wear. Slide
Index 2 each fork back and forth along the entire length of the shaft several times to insure that they are not binding.
page 1
page 2 7. With a vernier caliper, or 0 to 1 inch micrometer, measure each thrust pad on all three shifter forks (Fig. 39). They
should all measure no less than .148". If any of them measures less than this, replace that fork.
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
FIG. 39
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
Page 28
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
8. Measure the width of the shift fork grooves in the two sliding gears and the sliding dog (Fig. 40).
OSSA None of these grooves should measure more than .170". If any of them exceeds this, replace it.
Works
manual 9. Look closely at Fig. 41. It shows the manner and sequence in which the shifter forks are installed in
by: Paul Dean the transmission shafts. The left fork is the first and third gear fork, mounted to the sliding gear on the
webified layshaft. The center one is the second gear fork, mounted to the sliding gear on the mainshaft. The
by: Bruce righthand one is the fourth and fifth gear fork, mounted to the sliding dog on the mainshaft.
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
FIG. 40
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
FIG.41
OSSA works manual
10. Using a pair of external snap ring pliers, remove the snap rings from both ends of the shifter
OSSA fork shaft, and slide all three forks from the shaft. Then take the first and third fork and insert it
Works into the sliding gear on the layshaft. Be careful not to install it upside down. Using a blade type
manual feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the thrust pads on the fork and the inside of the
groove in the gear (Fig. 42). Check both pads on the fork and both sides of each pad. If you can
by: Paul Dean
insert a feeler,gauge larger than .020" in any of these places, replace the shift fork. Repeat this
webified
by: Bruce procedure with each fork by inserting it into its respective gear or dog, and checking the clearance.
Langdon
Index 1 11. There is a peg on the rear of each shift fork that fits into one of three machined grooves in the
Index 2 shifting drum. You must now measure the diameter of each peg and measure the critical part of its
page 1 corresponding groove in the shift drum. This will tell you how much side movement the shift
forks will have when they are engaged in each particular gear. If this side play is excessive, it
page 2
could be the cause of a transmission jumping out of gear, or missed shifts. First measure the
page 3
diameter of the peg on the first-third shift fork (Fig. 43.). Write
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24 FIG. 42
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34

OSSA works manual
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
FIG. 43
page 53
page 54
page 55 Page 30
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78

OSSA works manual
that measurement down on a piece of paper. Fig. 44 shows which shift drum groove to measure and where to
OSSA measure it for first gear. Using the vernier calpiers, carefully measure the width of the groove at that point.
Works Fig. 45 shows where to measure the third gear ramp of the groove. Do the same to it. Subtract the diameter
manual of the first-third shifter fork peg from the width of the groove in first gear and also in third gear. If the
remainder is more than .008", replace the fork and remeasure. Repeat
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
FIG. 44
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38 FIG. 45
OSSA works manual
this process for the second gear fork and the center groove as shown in Fig. 46. Repeat a third time for the
OSSA fourth-fifth gear fork and the two places in the groove as shown in Figs. 47 and 48. In all cases, replace the
Works fork if the clearance is more than .008"
manual
by: Paul Dean NOTE: The shift drum should not wear nearly as fast as the forks; therefore, you should assume that the fork
webified is the faulty part. However, none of the grooves in the shift drum should exceed .244", measured at the given
by: Bruce points.
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18 FIG. 46
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37 FIG. 47

OSSA works manual
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56 FIG. 48
page 57
page 58
page 59
Page 32
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85

OSSA works manual
12. Closely inspect the selector shaft and components for excessive wear. Check the splined end of the shaft
OSSA that had the gear shift attached to it. If the machine has suffered a fall in which the shift lever hit the ground,
Works the splines may be twisted or the shaft may be bent or damaged. If so, replace the shaft. Check the tips of the
manual selector pawl for excess wear or chipping. Pull the pawl toward the left end of the shaft to make sure it is
free. Then release it to check that the pawl spring is returning it back into place.
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce 13. The selector shaft return spring should be tight on the pin pressed into the housing of the shaft. If not,
Langdon replace the spring. The two snap rings and small lock ring on the shaft should be in good condition and seated
Index 1 properly.
Index 2
page 1 NOTE: There is a right way and a wrong way to install a snap ring. This is true not just on the selector shaft,
page 2 but for any part of any piece of machinery that utilizes snap rings, both internal and external. A snap ring is
manufactured by stamping it out of an appropriately thick piece of steel. Because it is stamped, one side of
page 3
the ring will have a sharp edge and the other side will have a slightly rounded edge. If you rub your thumb or
page 4
forefinger across both edges of the snap ring, you will feel the difference in these edges (Fig. 48A). Snap
page 5
rings fit into grooves which are machined with square corners inside them. When a snap ring is in its groove,
page 6 it is usually capable of withstanding a greater side load in one direction without breaking or popping out, than
page 7 it is in the other direction. This is because when the snap ring has its rounded edge forced against the side of
page 8 the groove, the roundness tends to open it up, which can then allow it to be pushed out of the groove. On the
page 9 other hand, when the ring is pushed in the other direction, it seats its square edge against the square edge of
page 10 the groove, and is less likely to be dislodged. For this reason, a snap ring
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31 FIG. 48A
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35 Page 33
page 36
page 37
page 38

OSSA works manual
should always be mounted with its square edge facing in the direction that the ring will
OSSA be thrusted under load. An easy way to remember this is to imagine in what direction a
Works snap ring will move if it comes out of the groove. Then, when mounting the ring, always
manual put the square edge facing in that direction.
by: Paul Dean
webified 14. Check the splines on the end of the kickstarter shaft carefully for damage and wear.
by: Bruce Inspect the teeth on the kickstarter driving gear and spin the gear on the kickstarter shaft
Langdon to be sure it turns freely. Also, inspect the ratchet teeth on the gear. Check the ratchet
Index 1 teeth on the ratchet cam and push the cam back and forth on the shaft (Fig. 49). You
Index 2 should be able to move the cam approximately .4" towards the right end of the shaft, and
page 1 it should return by the pressure of the spring.
page 2
15. Remove the kickstarter stop bolt from the right engine case. It is threaded into the
page 3
case and secured by a 14 mm lock nut which is accessible through the hole in the outside
page 4
rear of the case (Fig. 50). Loosen and remove the lock nut, steel washer and fiber
page 5
washer. Then, unscrew the stop bolt. Check it for cracks or other signs of fatigue. If you
page 6 suspect it to be faulty, replace it with a new one. Clean the threads on the bolt, the lock
page 7 nut, and the threads in the engine case thoroughly. Put several drops of Loctite on the
page 8 threads of the nut and bolt, and screw the bolt back into the case. Turn it with your
page 9 fingers until it will go no further. The bottom of the head of the bolt should be
page 10 about .080", or 2mm from the shoulder of the case. Install the fiber washer, steel washer,
page 11 and lock nut, and tighten to 20 ft-lbs of torque.
page 12
page 13 16. Check the selector return spring anchor pin for wear or looseness in the case. If you
page 14 remove it for any reason or replace it, always
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30

OSSA works manual
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
FIG. 49
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54 Page 34
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13 FIG. 50
page 14
page 15 use Loctite on the threads upon re-installation. There are no torque specifications for this pin. Just tighten it
page 16 as tight as possible with a large screwdriver.
page 17
page 18 17. Check the condition of all the bearings and bushings. If any of them show signs of roughness or
page 19 excessive wear, replace them.
page 20
page 21 18. The final checks of the gearbox components require that they be assembled in the case. If new bearings
or bushings need be installed, that part of the repair must be done before the final gearbox checks. Section 6
page 22
of Chapter 1 covers the removal of bearings and bushings. Section 1 of Chapter 3 deals with their proper
page 23
installation. If your gearbox requires the replacement of these components, refer to that part of the Manual
page 24
for correct instructions and return to the next section, Section 4 of this Chapter, for continuation of the
page 25 transmission repairs.
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29 Page 35
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38

OSSA works manual
Section 4:
OSSA
Works Shimming And Gear Engagement
manual
by: Paul Dean 1. The shimming of the five speed OSSA engine is not as critical nor complicated as
webified previous models. It does require a slight bit of patience, but you will be rewarded with
by: Bruce the knowledge that your efforts will result in a positive, smooth shifting gearbox.
Langdon
Index 1 2. Assemble the gears on the mainshaft in their proper order. If you have replaced any
Index 2 gears on it, or the shaft itself, be sure the lock rings are seated properly.
page 1
page 2 3. Assemble the gears on the layshaft, being sure that they are in the right order and
page 3 that the lock rings are secure. The extreme lefthand gear on the layshaft is the layshaft
page 4 1st idling gear. It rides on a caged needle bearing. When installing it on the shaft, you
page 5 must first install the flat spacer washer which is approximately .040" or 1 mm thick.
page 6 Then install the needle bearing and put the gear on last, over the bearing (Fig. 51).
page 7
page 8 NOTE: There are three similar needle bearings in the gearbox (Fig. 52). Two of them
measure slightly less than 10 mm in width. These two are used between the mainshaft
page 9
and the 5th driven gear. The third one measures 13 mm wide and is the correct one for
page 10
the layshaft 1st gear. Do not confuse these bearings, as the installation of a wrong one
page 11 could result in failure of that bearing.
page 12
page 13 4. With the exception of the previously mentioned .040" spacer washer inboard of 1st
page 14 gear on the layshaft, and a 1 mm or .040" thick washer on either end of the kickstarter
page 15 shaft, there are no other thick washers on the ends of any other shafts in the OSSA
page 16 gearbox.
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
FIG. 51
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69 FIG. 52

OSSA works manual
Very rarely do any of the shafts have more than one .004" or .008" shim on one end.
OSSA The location of these shims is relatively simple because every shimmable shaft in the
Works gearbox has a different diameter.
manual
by: Paul Dean The shift drum end has a 12 mm diameter. The left end of the layshaft is 14 mm. The
webified right end of the layshaft is 16 mm. The left end of the mainshaft is 17 mm. The right
by: Bruce end of the mainshaft is not shimmed. The right end of the kickstarter shaft is 15 mm
Langdon and the left end is 20 mm. The selector shaft is normally not shimmed. Because of this,
Index 1 it is very easy to determine on which shaft the shims belong. Fig. 52A gives the part
Index 2 numbers and sizes of all the transmission shims.
page 1
page 2 Transmission Shim Chart
page 3
page 4
page 5
033-176-I (.002"
page 6
thick)
page 7
033-176-II (.004"
page 8 Left end of Layshaft
thick)
page 9
033-176-IV (.008"
page 10
thick)
page 11
page 12 033-292-I (.002"
Right end of layshaft
page 13 thick)
page 14 033-292-II (.004"
&
page 15 thick)
page 16 033-292-IV(.008"
Right end of kickstart
page 17 thick)
page 18 033-292-X (.020"
shaft
page 19 thick)
page 20 921-111 (.002"
page 21 thick)
page 22 921-112 (.004"
Left end of mainshaft
page 23 thick)
page 24 921-113 (.008"
page 25 thick)
page 26 050-404-I (.002"
page 27 thick)
page 28
050-404-II (.004"
page 29 Shift drum
thick)

OSSA works manual
page 30 050-404-IV(.008"
page 31 thick)
page 32 050-404-X (.020"
page 33 thick)
page 34
911-139-II (.004"
page 35 Left end of kickstart
thick)
page 36
911-139-IV (.008"
page 37 shaft
thick)
page 38
911-139-X (.020"
page 39
thick)
page 40
page 41 991-139-II (.004"
thick)
page 42
page 43 991-139-IV (.008"
Crankshaft shims
thick)
page 44
page 45 991-139-X (.020"
page 46 thick)
page 47
page 48 FIG. 52A
page 49
page 50 5. The next step is to find out how many shims belong on each shaft. Start by putting
page 51 all the shims back on all the shafts. Then, install the layshaft with all of its shims and
gears in the right engine case. Install the three crankcase guide pins in their respective
page 52
holes and lay a new center gasket on the righthand case surface. Install the left
page 53
crankcase and insert and tighten at least five of the engine case screws. The left end of
page 54 the layshaft will be exposed through the bushing in the left engine case. The end play
page 55 of the layshaft can be measured from that point.
page 56
page 57 6. There are several ways to take this measurement. A dial gauge is the most accurate,
page 58 but a vernier caliper will suffice if a dial gauge is not available. The layshaft can be
page 59 moved back and forth by reaching in through the center of the mainshaft bearing with
page 60 a hooked tool similar to a pry bar, and catching hold of the shaft. Pull the shaft towards
page 61 you by hooking the tool behind the 4th gear on the layshaft. Push it away from you by
page 62 pushing on the far righthand gear. These two gears are made right onto the shaft and
page 63 will not allow you to take a false reading.
page 64
page 65 7. If a dial indicator is used, it must be attached firmly to the left engine case, with the
plunger of the gauge touching the left end of the layshaft and parallel to it. Move the
page 66
shaft back and forth. The end play should be .010" to .015".
page 67
page 68
8. If a vernier caliper is used, locate a fairly strong, straight-edged piece of strap metal
page 69 that is longer than the engine case is high. This will be used as a reference point for the
OSSA works manual
page 70 caliper. Put the strap across the cases and hold the
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74 Page 37
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
caliper as shown in Fig. 53. Push the layshaft all the way to the right and then lower the depth gauge of the caliper until it
OSSA touches the end of the shaft. Read the caliper and write down the measurement. Now, pull the layshaft to the left and take
Works another measurement. Be sure you are holding the caliper in the same place as in the first measurement. You may find it
manual easier to have someone else hold the layshaft to the left to keep it from moving while you are working the caliper. Now,
subtract the second reading from the first, and the difference is the amount of end play in the layshaft. Again, the correct
by: Paul Dean
amount of layshaft end play is .0101, to .015". If the measured end play is not correct, adjust it by adding or subtracting
webified
by: Bruce shims. It makes no difference at this point from which end of the shaft you add or subtract the shims.
Langdon
Index 1 9. Remove the lefthand case and layshaft. Add or subtract shims as needed and recheck the end play. When the proper
Index 2 tolerance is reached, remove the layshaft and put it aside. It is a good idea to put a little piece of tape around each end of
page 1 the shaft to prevent the shims from dropping off until you are ready to use it again.
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32 FIG. 53
page 33
page 34
page 35
Page 38
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
10. Repeat the checking process, this time with the shifting drum. Use the caliper in the same manner as shown in Fig.
OSSA 54. The drum can be moved by putting one of your fingers through the large hole at the lower rear side of the left engine
Works case far enough to catch hold of the drum. Then, slide the drum back and forth. The end play of the drum should be .008"
manual to .012".
by: Paul Dean
webified 11. Check the end play of the mainshaft next. You must first install the 5th driven gear into the righthand transmission
by: Bruce bearing. Push the gear in as far as it will go by hand. Then move it the rest of the way by tapping it with a soft faced
Langdon mallet. Install one of the mainshaft needle bearings into the center of the gear. There is a 10 mm wide spacer that goes in
Index 1 next, then the other needle bearing. Put the mainshaft, with all its shims, into the gear, and with the center gasket in
Index 2 place, install the left case and secure it with five screws.
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30 FIG. 54
page 31
page 32
page 33
Page 39
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
12. The metal strap need not be used for checking the mainshaft play. Just put the caliper on the end of the
OSSA shaft and measure to the inner ball bearing race (Fig. 55). The mainshaft is sometimes a fairly snug fit inside
Works the lefthand transmission bearing. For this reason, you may not be able to move it with your fingers. If this
manual occurs, locate the inner clutch hub and its retaining nut. Slide the hub down onto the mainshaft, and install
the nut finger tight. Grasp the hub with one hand and pull towards you, holding the engine with the other
by: Paul Dean
hand. This will get the mainshaft over to the left. Remove the nut and hub, being careful not to disturb the
webified
by: Bruce shaft. Then take your measurement. Tap the shaft gently until it has moved all the way to the right, and take
Langdon another reading. Subtract the smallest reading from the largest, and the result is the mainshaft end play. The
Index 1 amount of end play in the mainshaft is not critical, but should be from .020" to .035". Record the end play of
the mainshaft on a piece of paper for later use.
Index 2
page 1
13. Remove the left case and mainshaft, and install the complete kickstarter assembly into the right case.
page 2
Don't forget that this shaft has at least a .040" thick washer on each end. Install the shaft in the right case so
page 3
that the pointed end of the ratchet cam is facing straight up. Once the shaft is inserted fully into the hole,
page 4 turn the shaft counter clockwise until it stops, which is about a half turn. While you are turning the shaft, the
page 5 ratchet cam catches behind the stop bolt, disengaging the ratchet mechanism. Once the shaft reaches the
page 6 stop, the ratchet is fully disengaged and is held in place by the bolt. If there are too many shims on the right
page 7 end of the kickstarter shaft, the cam will bind before the shaft reaches its stop, causing the kickstarter to
page 8 stick. If it binds, remove one shim at a time from the right end of the shaft until it works freely.
page 9
page 10 14. With the kickstarter assembly still in place, install the left case, making sure there is a center gasket
page 11 between the two cases. Secure
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33 FIG. 55
page 34
page 35
page 36
Page 40
page 37

OSSA works manual
the case with five screws. Rotate the kickstarter shaft clockwise as far as it will go. Pull the end of the shaft back and
OSSA forth with your hand and measure the end play, which should be .060" to .080". The amount of play is not critical,
Works but should it need correction, do so by adding or subtracting the large diameter shims on the left end of the shaft.
manual
by: Paul Dean 15. You have now determined how many shims are needed to obtain the proper end play of the gearbox components.
webified The final step is to determine on which end of the shafts these shims are best installed. Actually, the shims used in
by: Bruce the five speed gearbox are so thin that it usually does not make much difference if the shaft is shimmed too far to
Langdon one side or the other; but, in the interest of obtaining the best possible gear engagement and smoothest shifting, we
Index 1 will explain how to arrive at the ideal conditions.
Index 2
page 1 16. Install the shifting forks on the shift fork shaft in their proper order as shown in Fig. 55A. Install two new snap
page 2 rings on the shaft, being sure the sharp corners of the rings are facing inward, as explained in Paragraph 13, Section
3, of this Chapter.
page 3
page 4
17. The mainshaft, although having end play when you measured it, does not have any when installed in the engine.
page 5
When the clutch assembly is put on the left end of the shaft and the clutch nut drawn tight, it pulls the shaft to the
page 6
left until the mainshaft first gear is tight against the inner race of the ball bearing. What was previously end play is
page 7 now merely a clearance which allows oil to reach the mainshaft needle bearings. However, when checking the
page 8 transmission for gear engagement, the left engine case and clutch assembly are not installed. Therefore, a spacer
page 9 must be made to simulate that clearance and hold the mainshaft in the proper operating position.
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
FIG. 55A
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
Page 41
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41

OSSA works manual
18. After you checked the mainshaft clearance, you were asked to record that clearance for future use. You now need to
OSSA make a spacer that is the same thickness as the end play of the mainshaft. You will need something that has a 14 mm
Works hole in it. The easiest method is to use extra shims from the left end of the layshaft, as they have a 14.5 mm diameter
manual hole. Some racing type sparkplugs use a solid copper washer with a 14 mm hole in the center. If one of these is available,
it can be filed to the proper thickness.
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce 19. Install the two needle bearings in the 5th driven gear with their 10 mm spacer between.
Langdon
Index 1 20. The easiest way to install the mainshaft, layshaft, shift drum, and shift forks is to assemble them in your hands and
Index 2 install the complete unit in the right case.
page 1
page 2 21. To do this, the right case should be held upright, as shown in Fig. 57. If you do not have an engine stand available,
page 3 yott can hold the case in this position by clamping the lower rear motor mount tab into a vise fitted with a set of soft
page 4
jaws. Do not use steel or iron jaws as they will damage the gasket surface of the case.
page 5
22. Assemble both shafts with all their gears and shim washers. Put your homemade spacer on the right end of the
page 6
mainshaft (Fig. 56). Put a little bit of light grease on the layshaft, mainshaft, and shift drum shims to keep them from
page 7
falling off.
page 8
page 9
23. Hold the layshaft in the front part of your left hand across the fingers. The first idling gear on the layshaft should be
page 10 right on your little finger. Now, set the mainshaft in
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36 FIG. 56
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40 Page 42
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
the palm of your hand, correctly meshing its gears with those on the layshaft.
OSSA
Works 24. Keeping your hand in this position, pick up the shifting fork assembly and drop each fork down onto its
manual proper place on the shafts. When correctly installed, the pins on the ends of all three forks will be pointed in
by: Paul Dean the same direction.
webified
by: Bruce 25. Now, turn this assembly so that the mainshaft is directly on top and the shift fork pegs are pointing
Langdon directly to the rear. Grasp the shift drum with your right hand, and with the selector pins of the drum pointed
Index 1 towards you, engage the pegs on the shift forks into their grooves in the shift drum.
Index 2
page 1 26. At this point, holding the assembly in both hands, move to the righthand case and install everything into
page 2 the case simultaneously (Fig. 57). Make sure that all the components are pushed all the way toward the right
page 3 side of the case and that everything turns freely. You are now ready to check the transmission for gear
page 4
engagement.
page 5
27. The shift drum will need to be turned manually to check each gear position. To do this, and to shift from
page 6
one gear to another, you will need to rotate the mainshaft while moving the shift drum. This is necessary
page 7
because the engaging dogs of the two gears that are going to be adjoined may not be properly aligned, and
page 8 the movement of the mainshaft moves one of these gears, thereby allowing the dogs to engage one another.
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
FIG. 57
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37 Page 43
page 38

OSSA works manual
28. Turn the shift drum counter clockwise as far as it will go. This is the 1st gear
OSSA position (Fig. 58). In 1st gear, and all gears, the engaging dogs must be engaged at least
Works 75% of their length.
manual
by: Paul Dean 29. Now, while rotating the mainshaft, turn the shift drum clockwise until the 2nd gear
webified position is reached. Stop at the point where maximum engagement is encountered.
by: Bruce Again, at least 75% engagement is necessary.
Langdon
Index 1 30. Continue through the gears, checking each one for its maximum point of
Index 2 engagement.
page 1
page 2 NOTE: Because of the spacer you made for the mainshaft, you will not be able to
page 3 engage 5th gear properly. For the time being, 5th gear will be disregarded.
page 4
page 5 31. If any gear position shows insufficient or excessive gear engagement, several
possibilities exist.
page 6
page 7
(a) A BENT SHIFT FORK. In the case of a bent fork, the gear or sliding dog on that
page 8
fork would slide too far in one direction and not far enough in the other.
page 9
page 10
(b) SHIFT DRUM SHIMMED TOO FAR IN ONE DIRECTION. In this case, all the
page 11 sliding dogs and gears on all the shafts would slide too far in one direction, and not far
page 12 enough in the other. This can be changed by moving the shims from one side of the
page 13 drum to the other, until the engagement of the sliding gears and dogs is equally divided
page 14 in both directions.
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
OSSA works manual
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48 FIG. 58
page 49
page 50 (c) MAINSHAFT SHIMMED TOO FAR IN ONE DIRECTION. This is easily
page 51 detected on the mainshaft, as both sliding engaging devices will engage too far in one
page 52 direction and not far enough in the other, but at the same time, the engagement in both
page 53 directions on the layshaft is good. This would require a readjustment of the
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 Page 44
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70

OSSA works manual
end play of the mainshaft to allow for correct engagement of the gears in both directions.
OSSA
Works (d) LAYSHAFT SHIMMED TOO FAR IN ONE DIRECTION. This will give a
manual condition similar to be a bent shift fork, whereas the 1st and 3rd sliding gear engages too
by: Paul Dean far in one direction, but not sufficiently in the other. As long as at least one shim remains
webified on the left end of the layshaft, all the other gearbox shims may be transferred from one
by: Bruce end to the other to acquire the proper positioning of the shaft.
Langdon
Index 1 NOTE: The previously stated examples are extreme ones and, with the exception of a
Index 2 bent shift fork, will never be encountered under normal conditions. The vast majority of
page 1 OSSA transmissions do not contain enough shims of sufficient thickness to drastically
page 2 change the shifiting and engagement, regardless of where they are installed. This
shimming information is given just in case this situation ever occurs, and also to give the
page 3
ultra-conscientious mechanic the knowledge to align the shifting components perfectly.
page 4
page 5
32. Now that you have established the proper engagement of each gear and the shimming
page 6
of the components, there are two final gearbox checks that should be made.
page 7
page 8 33. First, turn the shift drum counter clockwise to the 1st gear position. Then install the
page 9 detent assembly into the right case. It is not necessary to screw it in all the way, but just
page 10 two or three turns. While doing this, hold the shift drum to the right by putting your
page 11 finger on the very end of it, as shown in Fig. 59. It is important that the shift drum is not
page 12 moved to the left due to the force of the detent spring.
page 13
page 14 34. As you are screwing in the detent
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30

OSSA works manual
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
FIG. 59
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53 Page 45
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71

OSSA works manual
assembly, you will notice that the shift drum will rotate very slightly. This is caused by
OSSA the detent plunger centering itself in the detent hole in the right end of the drum. The
Works reason for doing all this is to be certain that the detent holes have been machined in the
manual proper place in relation to the groove in the shift drum. Therefore, with the gearbox in
1st gear, turn the cletent assembly inward as previously stated, two or three turns. The
by: Paul Dean
shift drum will probably rotate slightly. Check the amount of engagement between the
webified
by: Bruce first idling gear and the Ist and 3rd sliding gear. It should be the same as when you
Langdon checked it previously. If not, replace the shift drum.
Index 1
Index 2 35. Remove the detent assembly and turn the shift drum until 2nd gear is fully engaged.
page 1 Then, while holding the shift drum to the right, screw the detent assembly inward two or
three turns. If the shift drum rotates slightly, check the gear engagement to insure that it
page 2
is the same as when you previously checked it. Again, if the amount of engagement is
page 3
insufficient, replace the shift drum.
page 4
page 5
36. While still in 2nd gear, and with the detent assembly still in place, install the selector
page 6 shaft mechanism, pushing it in firmly until it is fully seated, and the return spring is on
page 7 the anchor pin. Take note that there are two shift drum selector pins between the tips of
page 8 the selector pawl. Each of these two pins should be an equal distance away from the tips
page 9 of the pawl (Fig. 60). If they are not, the end of the selector return spring will need to be
page 10 slightly bent until these pins are centered between the pawl tips. If you must bend the
page 11 spring, be sure that after it is bent, the ends are still a snug fit on the anchor pin.
page 12
page 13 37. Remove the selector and cletent assemblies, and repeat both these checking processes
page 14 for 3rd and 4th gear. If the location of the selector pins varies from one gear to another,
page 15
or if insufficient engagement of the gears occurs after installing the cletent, the shift
drum will necessitate replacement.
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30

OSSA works manual
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50 FIG. 60
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54 Page 46
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71

OSSA works manual
38. After making these checks, remove all the gearbox components. Then remove the homemade spacer from
OSSA the mainshaft. Reinstall the components back into the right case and perform all the required checks on the
Works 5th gear engaging mechanisms.
manual
by: Paul Dean 39. Finally, remove all the gearbox components, including the detent assembly, and reinstall only the shift
webified drum and selector shaft assembly in the right case. Be sure that all of the shims on the shift drum are
by: Bruce positioned properly. Insert a feeler gauge between the back of the selector pawl tips and the end of the shift
Langdon drum (Fig. 61). This distance, although not critical, should be no less than .015- and no more than .080." If
Index 1 the measurement exceeds these limits, inspect the selector mechanism closely for damage and straightness,
Index 2 for under normal circumstances this cannot happen.
page 1
page 2 40. If the clearance is less than .015" and the selector assembly is not bent or damaged, the shaft can be
shimmed away from the drum by installing shims on its right end. The shaft has a 14 mm diameter at that
page 3
end. Therefore, the type shim used on the left end of the layshaft can be used for this purpose. If the clearance
page 4
is more than .080" and no damage can be detected on the selector assembly, a new assembly should be
page 5
installed and checked.
page 6
page 7 41. If you have a gearbox problem that you cannot cure by the use of this Manual, or if the necessary
page 8 equipment is not available to you, give the engine to your OSSA dealer for repair. He will either repair it
page 9 himself or send it to the OSSA distributor, as it may require the use of special tools and fixtures.
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34 FIG. 61
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38 Page 47

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section: 5
Works
manual Repairing The Cylinder And Piston
by: Paul Dean
webified 1 . Thoroughly clean the cylinder and piston assembly. Visually inspect the cylinder
by: Bruce for gouges, seizure marks, and noticeable wear. Check the piston for cracks or signs of
Langdon noticeable wear.
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
FIG. 62
page 18
page 19
2. Check the piston to cylinder wall clearance next. While doing this, the cylinder and
page 20
piston should be at room temperature. (650 to 700 F.) Measure the piston at the bottom
page 21 of the skirt from front to back, as shown in Fig. 62. Measure the inside of the cylinder
page 22 from front to back, approximately one inch up from the bottom of the cylinder liner as
page 23 shown in Fig. 63. Subtract the piston measurement from the cylinder measurement to
page 24 obtain the piston clearance.
page 25
page 26 3. Section 6 of this Chapter contains all the piston sizing information. Fig. 71 of that
page 27 Section shows what the maximum allowable clearances are for each type engine. If the
page 28 clearance exceeds those tolerances, the engine may just need a new piston or it may
page 29 need re-boring.

OSSA works manual
page 30 4. To determine which solution is correct for the engine you are repairing, clean the
page 31 top of the old piston until you can find the number stamped on it (Fig. 64). Then,
page 32 compare the measured size of your piston with the size of an equivalent new piston, as
page 33 given in the chart, Fig. 70, Section 6. If your piston measures less than the new one,
page 34 subtract the size of the new piston from the inside diameter of your cylinder, and if the
page 35 resulting clearance is within the allowable limits for your engine as shown in Fig. 71
of Section 6, then the
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55 FIG. 63
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59 Page 48
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10 FIG. 64
page 11
page 12 cylinder need not be bored if the piston is replaced with a new one of the same size.
page 13
page 14 5. If the tolerance would still be excessive with the new piston, then the cylinder will
page 15 necessitate boring to the next oversize.
page 16
6. If the cylinder has worn excessively in one place, or been scratched deeply or
page 17
gouged, the next oversize, being only .008" larger, may not be enough to remove the
page 18
defects. In these cases it will be necessary to go to an even larger oversize, or perhaps
page 19
replace the cylinder liner.
page 20
page 21 NOTE: The piston to cylinder wall clearance is a very important factor in determining
page 22 the performance of an engine. Too little clearance can cause piston seizure. Too much
page 23 can cause a considerable loss in engine performance and efficiency. The accuracy of
page 24 measuring this clearance is dependent upon the type and quality of the measuring
page 25 equipment and the amount of time spent in using them to obtain the most accurate
page 26 readings, both before and after boring. For this reason, it is recommended that unless
page 27 you have the proper equipment for this task, and the knowledge of how to use it, you
page 28 take the piston and cylinder to a qualified motorcycle shop or machine shop to have it
page 29
bored or measured.

OSSA works manual
page 30 7. After boring and honing, the ports must all be bevelled, or rounded, where they
page 31 enter the cylinder. Bevel all the port edges with a .020" radius. This can be done with a
page 32 small air or electric grinder or a very small machinist's hooked file (Fig. 65). If a small
page 33 grinder is used, be very careful not to let it slip and scratch the cylinder wall. This
page 34 bevelling is very necessary, as it prevents the rings from catching in the ports as the
piston passes them.
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54 FIG. 65
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 Page 49
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
8. If you determine that there is not sufficient wear to warrant replacement of the
OSSA piston, check the rings for freeness in the ring lands. If they are free, you must now
Works carefully check them for wear. Remove them from the piston one at a time, being
manual careful not to mix them up. You may even want to mark them "top" and "bottom". It is
also very important to mark each ring so that when and if you put it back on the piston
by: Paul Dean
it will have the same edge facing upward. Failure to do either of these things will
webified
by: Bruce result in accelerated ring wear and a loss of power.
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16 FIG. 66
page 17
page 18 9. Clean the rings thoroughly and place one of them inside the cylinder, approximately
page 19 1/2 inch down from the top of the liner (Fig. 66). Take the piston and insert it into the
page 20 cylinder upside down until the top of the piston hits the ring (Fig. 67). Then push the
page 21 piston down another 1/2 inch. This will make sure the ring is set squarely inside the
page 22 cylinder. Remove the piston and measure the width of the gap at the
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
FIG. 67
page 48
page 49
ends of the rings as shown in Fig. 68. This distance should be from .075" to .085."
page 50
Reinstall the piston and push the ring halfway down into the cylinder. Remove the
page 51 piston and measure the end gap again.
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
10. Repeat this process with the other ring. If either ring exceeds the tolerance at either
OSSA checking point, replace both the rings.
Works
manual 11. If the old rings are used, it will not be necessary to hone the cylinder. If new rings
by: Paul Dean are fitted, it will be required to hone the cylinder enough to remove the glaze from the
webified walls. Failure to do this will result in the rings taking an excessive period to seat, or
by: Bruce perhaps not at all.
Langdon
Index 1 12. The correct procedure for honing a cylinder is to rapidly move the hone back and
Index 2 forth while it is turning. This results in a pattern called -crosshatching.- The
page 1 crosshatching is correct when the small scratches made by the movement of the hone
page 2 are at right angles to each other.
page 3
page 4
13. While honing, be careful not to remove excessive material from the cylinder. The
idea is only to remove the oil glaze which has been baked on the cylinder walls due to
page 5
the heat of combustion.
page 6
page 7
14. Also, after honing, check the end gap of the new rings as described in Paragraph 4
page 8 of this Section. Since the rings are not marked, this will assure you that the rings you
page 9 have are the correct ones for the piston you are using.
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13 Page 51
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA 250 PISTONS

Works
manual
by: Paul Dean 72 72 mm Standard
webified 72.20 72.20 mm 1 st oversize
by: Bruce 72.40 72.40 mm 2nd oversize
Langdon
Index 1 72.60 72.60 mm 3rd oversize
Index 2 175 PISTONS
page 1 60.90 60.90 mm Standard
page 2 61.10 61.10 mm 1 st oversize
page 3
61.30 61.30 mm 2nd oversize
page 4
61.50 61.50 mm 3rd oversize
page 5
page 6
page 7 FIG. 69
page 8
page 9
page 10
NEW PISTON MEASUREMENT CHART
page 11
Measurement in Inches
page 12
page 13
page 14 250 c.c. 72 mm
page 15
Metric Size
page 16
page 17 Standard 72 mm 2.8334" to 2.8344"
page 18 lst oversize 72.20 mm 2.8414" to 2.8424"
page 19 2nd oversize 72.40 mrn 2.8492" to 2.8502"
page 20 3rd oversize 72.60 mm 2.8570" to 2.8580"
page 21 175 c.c. 72 mm
page 22
Standard 60.90 mm 2.3960" to 2.3968"
page 23
page 24 lst oversize 61.10 mm 2.4040" to 2.4048"
page 25 2nd oversize 61.30 mm 2.4118" to 2.4126"
page 26 3rd oversize 61.50 mm 2.4200" to 2.4208"
page 27
page 28 FIG. 70
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA PISTON CLEARANCE CHART

Works
manual
by: Paul Dean MODEL PISTON TO CYLINDER NEEDS REBORE IF
webified
CLEARANCE CLEARANCE EXCEEDS
by: Bruce
Langdon 250 Pioneer .00175" - .002" .0045" - .005"
Index 1 250 Plonker .001" - .0015" .0035" - .004"
Index 2 250 Stiletto .002" - .0025" .0045" - .005"
page 1 250 T.T. & D. M. R. .0025" - .003" .005" - .0055"
page 2
175 Pioneer .002" - .0025" .0035" - .004"
page 3
175 Stiletto .0025" - .003" .0045" - .005"
page 4
page 5
page 6 FIG. 71
page 7
page 8 Section 6:
page 9
page 10
Piston Sizing Information
page 11
1. The numbers and letters stamped on the top of the piston indicate its size in
page 12
millimeters. Fig. 69 illustrates this.
page 13
page 14
2. The piston sizing chart, Fig. 70, illustrates the measured size of all OSSA pistons.
page 15
page 16
3. Fig. 71 gives correct piston to cylinder clearances to be observed when reboring.
page 17 This chart also shows the maximum allowable clearances.
page 18
page 19 4. Even though exacting procedures are followed during the manufacture of pistons,
page 20 they are not all precisely the same size. These very slight differences are denoted by a
page 21 letter stamped on the top of the piston, either an A. B., C., or D. A "B" piston is.
page 22 0002" (2/10 of one thousandth) larger than an "A". A "C" piston is .0002" larger than
page 23 a "B". A "D" piston is .0002" larger than a "C".
page 24
page 25 5. This small difference in piston size is particularly helpful at the factory when the
page 26 cylinders and pistons are selected for proper fit. Due to the large number of cylinders
page 27 that the factory must produce, the finished inside size of each cylinder can vary
page 28
perhaps .0002"to .0004" (2/10 to 4/10 of a thousandth). When each engine is being
assembled, the assembler selects the piston (either A, B, C, or D) that gives the correct
page 29
piston to cylinder clearance, thereby insuring maximum performance and piston life

OSSA works manual
page 30 from that engine.

page 31
page 32 6. Many OSSA dealers who carry a large stock of pistons also use this sizing method
page 33 when they rebore a cylinder. The piston size chart (Fig. 70) gives the exact size of each
page 34 individual 175 and 250 OSSA piston.
page 35
page 36
page 37
Page 53
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section: 7
Works
manual Installing A New Cylinder Liner
by: Paul Dean
webified 1. If the cylinder walls become worn or damaged to such an extent that even boring to
by: Bruce the 3rd oversize will not repair it, or if the 3rd oversize has already been fitted and now
Langdon has excessive clearance, the cylinder liner will need to be replaced with a new one.
Index 1
Index 2 2. To do this, place the cylinder in an oven and support it upside down by the fins, so
page 1 that the liner will be free to drop out once it reaches the required temperature.
page 2
page 3 3. Set the oven to 5500 F. At approximately 5000 to 5500, the liner should drop out of
page 4 the cylinder (Fig. 72). Occasionally the liner will hang up slightly inside the cylinder.
page 5 This is due to the fact that at the factory, the ports in the liner are matched to the ports
page 6 in the cylinder with an air grinder. This grinding sometimes results in a very small lip
page 7
on the edge of the port between the cylinder and liner, and this lip catches the
aluminum of the cylinder when the liner is being removed. When this happens the
page 8
liner can be removed by gently tapping on its lower edge to assist it out of the cylinder.
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28 FIG. 72
page 29
NOTE: Do not drive, force, or press the liner from the cylinder. This will result in
OSSA works manual
page 30 damage to the cylinder which will impair its ability to transfer and dissipate the heat
page 31 created during operation. DO NOT heat the cylinder to a temperature exceeding 750
page 32 deg. while attempting to remove the liner, or you face the danger of permanent
page 33 cylinder distortion. If a liner proves to be particularly stubborn to remove, take it to a
page 34 machine shop and have them turn down the inside of the liner on a lathe until it is thin
enough to remove by gently breaking it apart.
page 35
page 36
4. After the liner is removed, allow the cylinder to cool and thoroughly clean the inside
page 37
of it. Inspect for any gouges or scrapes that may have resulted when the liner was
page 38
removed. If any such irregularities are present, carefully remove them with fine grit
page 39 sandpaper, taking caution not to create a low spot in the cylinder by excessive sanding.
page 40
page 41 5. Place the cylinder back into the oven and heat it to 4000 to 4500 F. Remove it from
page 42 the oven and support it right side up by the lower fins so that the liner can be dropped
page 43 in from the top without hitting the bench.
page 44
page 45 6. Hold the liner just above the cylinder and turn it so that when it falls into the
page 46 cylinder, the ports will be fairly close to being aligned.
page 47
page 48
page 49 Page 54
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA 7. The liner has an area on the bottom where its outside diameter is slightly smaller
Works than the rest of the liner (Fig. 73). This is to aid in starting it into the cylinder.
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 73
page 13
page 14 Very carefully start this part into the cylinder, and continue moving the liner
page 15
downward until it has moved one or two inches inside the cylinder. At that point, let
go of the liner and it will drop into place inside the cylinder.
page 16
page 17
8. Very quickly turn the cylinder liner to align the ports, grasping it by the part that
page 18
protrudes from the bottom of the cylinder (Fig. 74). You have 6 to 10 seconds to do
page 19 this once the liner falls into the cylinder.
page 20
page 21 9. Leaving the cylinder supported by the bottom fins, place a heavy weight on the top
page 22 of the liner to hold it in place while it cools.
page 23
page 24 10. After the cylinder has reached room temperature, remove the weight and inspect
page 25 the alignment of the ports. If there is a slight misalignment, correct it now with a
page 26 suitable grinding tool. It is better to do this now, as should the grinding tool slip and
page 27 scratch the cylinder wall, this scratch will be removed when the cylinder is bored.
page 28
page 29 11. All new liners require boring after installation. Therefore, refer to Fig. 71, Section
6, for the correct piston to cylinder clearance. Bore and finish the cylinder according to
OSSA works manual
page 30 the instructions given in Section 5 of this chapter.

page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 FIG. 74
page 59
page 60
Page 55
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA CHAPTER 3
Works
manual REASSEMBLY OF THE ENGINE
by: Paul Dean
webified Section 1:
by: Bruce
Langdon Installation of New Bearings and Bushings
Index 1
Index 2
SPECIAL NOTE; This section deals with installing new bearings in the engine cases.
page 1 Normally, the left main bearing must be first installed on the crankshaft, and then the
page 2 crank and bearing are put into the left case as a unit. If you are merely reinstalling the
page 3 original crankshaft, and are sure that its alignment and end play in the engine cases is
page 4 correct, then proceed normally with the instructions.
page 5
page 6 If you are not sure of the crankshaft alignment and end play, and you wish to check it,
page 7 do not install the crankshaft oil seals, do not install the left main bearing on the
page 8 crankshaft, and do not install the crankshaft or the left main bearing in the left engine
page 9 case. It will be necessary to install these items at a later point after checking the
page 10
crankshaft for the proper measurements as outlined in Section 2 of this chapter.
page 11
1. Set the crankshaft in a vise fitted with soft faced jaws. Position the left drive shaft
page 12
pointing directly upward. Locate the shims you removed from behind the left main
page 13
bearing during disassembly of the engine and put them in place on the drive shaft. Set
page 14 the new bearing on the drive shaft and push it down as far as you can with your
page 15 fingers. Locate a short piece of pipe whose inside diameter is large enough to pass
page 16 over the drive shaft and firmly contact the inner race of the bearing (Fig. 75).
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
FIG. 75
page 48
page 49
With a hammer, tap on the end of pipe to drive the bearing into place, moving it all the
page 50 way down until it bottoms on the shims. Be careful not to drive or exert force on the
page 51 outer race of the bearing, as this could cause subsequent failure.
page 52
page 53 NOTE: The left main bearing (OSSA Part No. 991-141) is slightly different than the
page 54 right main bearing (OSSA Part No. 991-140). They are essentially the same bearings,
page 55 but the internal clearance between the balls and races of the left bearing are greater
page 56 than in the right. This difference is noted by the letters "C3" either stamped or printed
page 57 on some part of the left bearing (Fig. 76 and 77). It is not recommended that a bearing
page 58 without this "C3" marking be installed as a left main bearing.
page 59
page 60 2. The engine cases must be thoroughly clean, especially the inside of the bearing
page 61
inount bosses. Blow the cases dry with compressed air to remove any solvent or
cleaner that may be trapped in remote areas. Check the bosses for any damage or wear
page 62
that
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66 Page 56
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10 FIG. 76
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28 FIG. 77
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 could have resulted from improper installation of bearings.

page 31
page 32 3. Heat the right engine case first, preferably in an oven or on an electric stove for
page 33 about 10 minutes, or until the case
page 34 temperature reaches 2500 to 3000 F. If a stove is not available, you may heat the cases
page 35 with a torch. If you do so, it is important to keep the torch moving to avoid
page 36
concentrating the flame on one area, and to heat the whole case evenly. Do not
overheat the cases, as they may distort after reaching a certain temperature. Even if
page 37
you are replacing only one bearing, heat the whole case evenly, not just the area
page 38
around that bearing, to prevent warpage.
page 39
page 40 4. When the case has reached the desired temperature, turn it so that the inside of the
page 41 case is facing upward. Hold the new bearing by putting your index finger into the
page 42 center of the bearing, and your thumb on the outer edge of the inner race. With the
page 43 bearing at room temperature or less, start it into the bearing boss (Fig. 78). Push it
page 44 gently downward until you hear it hit the bottom of the boss. The bearing is now in
page 45 place.
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66 FIG. 78
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
5. Do not drive or press any of the bearings into place, as the cases and bearings will
OSSA suffer damage. If any bearing fails to go all the way into its mounting boss, gently tap
Works it out, let it cool to room temperature, reheat the engine cases, and try it again.
manual
by: Paul Dean 6. The layshaft bronze bushing is installed in a similar manner. When the case has
webified reached the desired temperature, the bushing will drop into place. Be sure that it is
by: Bruce pushed all the way in until its shoulder bottoms on the case surface.
Langdon
Index 1 7. After installing the bushings or bearings, let the case lie with its inside facing
Index 2 upward for 5 or 10 minutes to allow the bearings to warm up and be securely held in
page 1 place.
page 2
page 3 8. Turn the engine case over, and if you had removed the old oil seals, install the new
page 4
ones. While the case is still thoroughly warm, set the seal into place with your fingers.
Do not strike the seal directly with a mallet. Instead, locate a block of wood that has
page 5
one smooth side or end slightly larger than the seal. Butt the block of wood against the
page 6
seal and gently and evenly tap it into place by hitting the end of the wood with a mallet
page 7 (Fig. 79). Install the seals no less than flush with the outer surface of the engine case
page 8 nor no more than 1/16 inch below it.
page 9
page 10 9. Heat the left case in the same manner as the right one. When it has reached the
page 11 desired temperature, lay it flat with the inside of the case pointed downward. Install the
page 12 crankshaft oil seal as described in Paragraph 8.
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49 FIG. 79
page 50
page 51 10. Turn the case over and install the transmission mainshaft bearing and layshaft
page 52 bushing, being sure they have bottomed out in their mounting bosses.
page 53
page 54 11. With the case still sufficiently warm, set it up vertically with the studs pointed
page 55 upward. Slide the OSSA oil seal protector (Part No. 999-201) over the left end of the
page 56 crankshaft. This seal protector prevents the left drive shaft from damaging the
page 57 crankshaft oil seal during installation of the crank, as shown in Fig. 80. Grasp the
page 58 crank by the right drive shaft, holding the connecting rod in place with your thumb, as
page 59 shown in Fig. 81. Grasp the case by the cylinder studs with your other hand and push
page 60 the crankshaft assembly into the case until you hear or feel the bearing bottom out in
its mounting boss. Once the crankshaft has been positioned in the case, the seal
page 61
protector will fall off the crankshaft.
page 62
page 63
12. Set the case on a small wooden box so that the right end of the crankshaft is
page 64
pointed
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69 Page 58

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10 FIG. 80
page 11
page 12 upward and in such a manner that the left end does not touch the bench, and let it cool.
page 13
page 14
page 15 Section 2:
page 16
page 17
Alignment Of The Crankshaft
page 18
1. If you are installing a new or rebuilt crankshaft, or are installing new engine cases, it
page 19
is advisable to check the end play and alignment of the crankshaft.
page 20
page 21
2. The big end of the connecting rod has a great deal of side clearance on the crank pin
page 22 to allow for sufficient lubrication at all R.P.M.'s. This presents the need for:
page 23
page 24 (a) The crankshaft end play to be correct. If the play is too little, it could cause side
page 25 loading of the main bearings, resulting in their destruction. If the play is too great, it
page 26 will allow the crankshaft to move back and forth far enough that the crankshaft
page 27 flywheels could strike the connecting rod.
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
FIG. 81
page 48
page 49
(b) The crankshaft is to be aligned so that the connecting rod is centered between the
page 50
flywheels. If it is not centered properly, the connecting rod could be subjected to side
page 51
loading, or, worse yet, breakage due to striking the flywheels.
page 52
page 53 3. To check the crankshaft end play and alignment, it will be necessary to mount the
page 54 crankshaft in the cases and measure the amount of end play by sliding the crankshaft
page 55 back and forth f rom right to left, and measuring its movement. However, this is
page 56 impossible with the lefthand main bearing installed, as it is a slight press fit on the
page 57 shaft and does not allow the crank to be slid back and forth easily.
page 58
page 59 4. It is therefore necessary to make a special or "dummy" main bearing for temporary
page 60 use while checking the crankshaft. This dummy bearing will allow the crankshaft to be
page 61 easily slid back and forth to check the end play.
page 62
page 63
page 64 Page 59
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
FIG. 82
page 10
page 11 Making this bearing is a relatively simple task. Locate a good used bearing of the same
page 12 type or use a new one. Do not use a bearing which is broken or badly worn. Sand the
page 13 outside of the outer race of the bearing (Fig. 82) until you can put it into the left engine
page 14 case without heating the case or driving it in. Sand the inside of the inner race until
page 15 you can freely slide it all the way onto the left end of the crank without driving it on.
page 16 The dummy bearing is now ready for use.
page 17
page 18 5. Locate the shims that were removed from behind the left main bearing while
page 19 disassembling the engine. Place them on the left end of the crankshaft and then install
page 20 the dummy bearing over them (Fig. 83).
page 21
page 22 6. Locate the two large rear hollow guide pins and the smaller front hollow guide pin
and install them in the case, allowing approximately half of each pin to protrude from
page 23
the case. Install a new center case gasket, supporting it on the pins.
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47 FIG. 83
page 48
page 49 7. Install the crankshaft into the left engine case, pushing it all the way inward until
page 50 you hear the dummy bearing bottom out in the mounting boss (Fig. 84).
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89 FIG. 84
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93 Page 60
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
8. Locate the shims that were removed from the right end of the crankshaft during
OSSA disassembly. Place them on the right main bearing and hold them in place with a dab
Works of light grease.
manual
by: Paul Dean 9. Now install the left case onto the right case, guiding the right end of the crankshaft
webified through the right main bearing. Gently tap the left case with a plastic or rawhide mallet
by: Bruce until it mates evenly with the right case.
Langdon
Index 1 10. Turn the cases around so that the magneto side is facing you, and install five or six
Index 2 of the engine case screws. Tighten them snugly, but not firmly.
page 1
page 2 11. To calculate the crankshaft end play, shift the crankshaft to the left by gently
page 3 tapping on its right end with a plastic or rawhide mallet. Using the depth gauge end of
page 4
the vernier caliper, measure the distance from the right end of the crankshaft to the
inner race of the right main bearing. Fig. 85 illustrates this. Write down that
page 5
measurement. Then, gently tap the left end of the crankshaft with the mallet, moving
page 6
the crank to the right. Again measure the distance from the right end of the crank to the
page 7 inner race of the right main bearing, being careful to take the measurement at the same
page 8 place as the first one. Subtract the smaller of the two figures from the larger. The
page 9 difference represents the end play of the crankshaft.
page 10
page 11 12. The correct crankshaft end play is .004" to .008". If the end play of the shaft you
page 12 are measuring is not within these tolerances, add or subtract shims from either side
page 13 until the correct measurement is obtained. Crankshaft
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49 FIG. 85
page 50
page 51 shims are available in thicknesses of .004" (No. 991-139-11), .008" (No. 991-139-IV)
page 52 and .020" (No. 991-139-X).
page 53
page 54 13. If you find it necessary to remove or add a large number of shims, or shims
page 55 totaling more than .008", do not do it all on one side. If possible, add or subtract an
page 56 equal number of shims from both sides. This tends to keep the crankshaft better
page 57 centered in the cases and makes the final alignment check a little easier.
page 58
page 59 14. After you have arrived at the correct crankshaft end play, the final step is to align it
page 60 properly so the connecting rod runs equidistant from both flywheels.
page 61
page 62 15. To do this, leave the cases bolted together after attaining the proper crankshaft end
play. Locate the piston you are going to install in the cylinder. If it is dirty, clean it and
page 63
remove the rings from it. Put the wrist pin bearing into the connecting rod and then
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67 Page 61
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
install the piston and the wrist pin on the rod.

OSSA
Works 16. Locate the cylinder, and if it is dirty, clean it. If the cylinder is to be bored before
manual final installation on the engine, do so now, before making this check. Install the
by: Paul Dean cylinder down over the piston (Fig. 86). This will be fairly easy as there are no rings
webified on the piston. Push the cylinder down until it is firmly mated with the crankcase.
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
FIG. 86
page 16
page 17
17. Turn the crankshaft 3 or 4 revolutions and stop when the piston has reached the T.
page 18
D.C. (top dead center) position.
page 19
page 20
18. Using a small, dentist's type inspection mirror and a flexible, probe type flashlight
page 21
or other suitable light source (Fig. 87), check the location of the connecting rod on the
page 22 crank pin by inserting the mirror into the intake port (Fig. 88). If you get the mirror
page 23 angled properly once it is inside the cylinder, and then shine the light down the port
page 24 and right at the mirror, you will easily be able to see howwell the rod is centered
page 25 between the sides of the crankshaft.
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49 FIG. 87
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68 FIG. 88
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71 19. If the rod appears to be closer to one side of the crank than the other, remove the
page 72 cylinder, part the crankcases, and remove the crankshaft.
page 73
page 74
page 75 Page 62
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
20. If the rod was located too close to the righthand side of the crankshaft, remove one
OSSA or more of the shims from the right end of the crank and put them on the left end. If
Works the rod was located too close to the lefthand side of the crankshaft, remove one or
manual more of the shims from the left end of the crank and put them on the right. The size
and number of shims you will need to move from one side to the other will depend
by: Paul Dean
upon how far from center the rod was located. Do not add any new shims nor remove
webified
by: Bruce any of them completely, as this will change the amount of end play.
Langdon
Index 1 21. Install the crankshaft back into the cases, bolt them together with 5 or 6 screws,
Index 2 and install the cylinder. Rotate the engine three or four times, then recheck the location
page 1 of the rod as described in Paragraph 18. Repeat this process until the connecting rod is
centered between the crankshaft flywheels.
page 2
page 3
22. Remove the cylinder and piston and part the engine cases. Remove and tag the
page 4
crankshaft shims "right" and "left", so that they will not become lost or mixed up.
page 5
Remove the dummy bearing. Refer back to Section 1 of this Chapter for instructions
page 6 on installing the left main bearing and crankshaft oil seals.
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10 Page 63
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 3:
Works
manual Reassembling The Engine Cases
by: Paul Dean
webified 1. Lightly oil all the gearbox components with Full Bore SAE 80 Racing Gearbox
by: Bruce Lubricant, or its equivalent, SAE 30 motor oil.
Langdon
Index 1 2. If you have removed the transmission 5th driven gear, reinstall it now. Push it into
Index 2 the righthand transmission bearing as far as it will go (Fig. 89). If necessary, tap it
page 1 lightly with a plastic or rawhide mallet to seat it against the bearing.
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
FIG. 89
page 21
page 22
3. Turn the case around, and from the magneto side, install the transmission sprocket
page 23 spacer, transmission sprocket, sprocket tab washer, and sprocket nut. Fit the
page 24 appropriate OSSA sprocket holding tool to the sprocket. (UD10-999-207 for 12 T
page 25 sprockets, UD11-999-207 for 11T and 13T sprockets.) Using the OSSA sprocket nut
page 26 wrench (No. 999-205), turn the nut counterclockwise until it is tight (Fig. 90). With a
page 27 small chisel and
page 28 mallet, bend the edge of the tab washer against two flats of the nut.
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
FIG. 90
page 48
page 49
4. Assemble all the gearbox components in the right case, making sure all shims and
page 50
washers are in the correct location. Paragraphs 19 thru 26 in Section 4 of Chapter 2
page 51
describe the easiest way to assemble these components into the case.
page 52
page 53 NOTE: Disregard the second sentence of Paragraph 22. Paragraph 22 reads, "Put your
page 54 homemade spacer on the righthand end of the mainshaft." This is done only when
page 55 checking the transmission gear engagement.
page 56
page 57 5. Fit the slotted plastic breather tube to the breather boss at the top of the case, with
page 58 the slots in the tube facing upward (Fig. 91).
page 59
page 60 6. Smear both sides of a new center case gasket with a light coating of grease. Do not
page 61 use gasket cement. Fit the gasket to the right case.
page 62
page 63
page 64 Page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 91
page 13
page 14 7. Install the two large hollow rear guide pins and the small front hollow guide pin into the right case. Allow
page 15 half of each pin to protrude from the case, which will hold the gasket in place.
page 16
page 17 8. Place the righthand crankshaft shim washers on the inner race of the right main bearing, and hold them in
place with a small amount of grease.
page 18
page 19
9. Place the left crankcase (containing the crankshaft assembly) atop the right case. Guide the end of the
page 20
crankshaft into the right main bearing and also guide the end of the kickstarter shaft into its hole in the left
page 21
engine case (Fig. 92).
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38

OSSA works manual
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61 FIG. 92
page 62
page 63 10. Slide the left case down until it mates 11. Insert the front engine case bolt through
page 64 with the right case. Use a rawhide or plastic its hole and put a few drops of Loctite on the
page 65 mallet to tap the case into place. I threads. A thick flat washer goes under the
page 66
page 67
page 68
Page 65
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86

OSSA works manual
head of the bolt. A thin, flat spring washer goes under the nut. Turn the nut only until it is finger tight.
OSSA
Works 12. Turn the engine so that the magneto side of the engine cases faces towards you. Put the nine long and two
manual short engine case screws in place (Fig. 93). Using a large screwdriver, turn the screws inward until they are
by: Paul Dean just snug. Do not tighten them until all the screws are snug.
webified
by: Bruce 13. Using the sequence shown in Fig. 93, tighten each screw firmly, using a large screwdriver or impact
Langdon screwdriver. Torque the front engine case nut and bolt to 12 ft. lbs., or 150 inch lbs.
Index 1
Index 2 14. Install the complete shift drum cletent assembly, turning it all the way in with your fingers. Do not force
page 1 it. If it seems to bind
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27 FIG. 93
page 28
page 29 when you turn it in, remove it, check the plunger for freeness, and try installing it again. Tighten it with a
page 30 large screwdriver only after it has been turned all the way in with your fingers.
page 31
page 32 15. Install the felt washer and protective rubber cap on the right end of the selector shaft.
page 33
page 34
page 35 Section 4:
page 36
page 37 Installing The Primary Side Components
page 38

OSSA works manual
page 39 1. Turn the engine so that the primary side of the cases faces up. Grasp the kickstarter shaft and turn it
page 40 counterclockwise as far as it will go, until the long slot on the shaft is facing upward.
page 41
page 42 2. Fit one of the large flat washers onto the
page 43
page 44
Page 66
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86

OSSA works manual
kickstarter shaft. Slide the kickstarter spring onto the shaft with the looped end of the
OSSA spring facing towards the front of the engine. Fit the other end of the spring into the
Works slot on the kickstarter shaft.
manual
by: Paul Dean 3. Using a long drift with an end that fits into the loop on the spring, turn the spring
webified 11/2 turns, and push the loop into the retaining boss at the rear of the case (Fig. 94). Be
by: Bruce careful when doing this, as the spring could slip and cut your fingers.
Langdon
Index 1 4. Place the other large washer on the shaft and push it down firmly on the spring.
Index 2 With a pair of snap ring pliers, fit the snap ring to its groove in the shaft just above the
page 1 top washer.
page 2
page 3 NOTE: It is not recommended that this snap ring be used over. It is better to use a new
page 4
one every time. Also, install this snap ring with its sharp edge facing towards the left
end of the shaft. The reasons for this are the same as
page 5
outlined in Chapter 2, Section 3, Paragraph 13, of Part A.
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25 FIG. 94
page 26
page 27 5. Fit the kickstart lever to the kickstart shaft and test to make sure the shaft turns and
page 28 returns properly. Remove the kickstart lever.
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 6. Place the .078" thick flat hardened washer on the mainshaft against the bearing. Put
page 31 the .220" thick inner clutch hub spacer on the mainshaft next, pushing it up against the
page 32 hardened washer.
page 33
page 34 7. Next, install the clutch needle bearing inner race on the mainshaft, butting it up
page 35 against the clutch hub spacer (Fig. 95). Clean this race thoroughly and oil it before
page 36
installation. If it shows any sign of wear, replace the whole needle bearing assembly.
page 37
8. This bearing is a slight press fit inside the outer clutch hub. To remove it, locate a
page 38
3/8" drive socket whose outside diameter is slightly
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 FIG. 95
page 59
page 60
page 61 Page 67
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
smaller than the outside diameter of the needle bearing. Fit a short extension to the
OSSA socket and insert it, socket first, into the rear of the outer clutch hub (Fig. 96).
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
FIG. 96
page 12
page 13
replace it. If the slots for the clutch plates on the outer clutch hub are notched or worn,
page 14
replace the outer hub.
page 15
page 16
13. Assemble the primary chain over the engine sprocket and outer clutch hub. As a
page 17 unit, install them on the engine simultaneously, sliding the engine sprocket over the
page 18 cush drive shaft and the outer clutch hub over the mainshaft (Fig. 97).
page 19
page 20 9. Press the needle bearing out of the hub, using a press or a vise.
page 21
page 22 10. Just reverse this process to install a new bearing, mounting it so that it is flush with
page 23 the front surface of the outer clutch hub.
page 24
page 25 11. Clean all oil or grease from the primary side crankshaft and threads, and from the
page 26 inside of the cush drive shaft. Because these two are an interference fit, cleanliness is
page 27 important to obtain a firm installation. Put the cush drive shaft on the end of the
page 28 crankshaft and tap it on the end with a plastic mallet to seat it.
page 29
12. Examine the sprocket teeth on the outer clutch hub and on the engine sprocket. If
OSSA works manual
page 30 either one shows signs of wear or chipping,

page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
FIG. 97
page 50
page 51
14. Grasp the top run of the primary chain with your fingers, halfway between the
page 52
engine sprocket and the outer clutch hub. If you can move the chain freely up and
page 53 down more than 5/8", replace the chain with a new one.
page 54
page 55 15. Thoroughly clean the threads on the end of the mainshaft. Then, install the inner
page 56 clutch hub on the mainshaft, pushing it inward as far as it will go. Put a few drops of
page 57 Loctite on the threads, and install the clutch lock washer and nut on the shaft, running
page 58 the nut down finger tight.
page 59
page 60
page 61 Page 68
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 98
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32 FIG. 99
page 33
page 34 16. Fig. 98 illustrates the cush drive components you will have remaining at this point. Put the cush drive coupling cam
onto the cush drive shaft. Measure the free length of the cush drive spring. If it is less than 1.4", replace it. Install the cush
page 35
drive spring and the spring stop. Be careful to get the splines on the spring stop aligned and started properly on the splines
page 36
of the cush drive shaft.
page 37
page 38
17. Put a few drops of Loctite on the threads of the cush drive Allen nut, and install the lock washer and Allen nut onto
page 39 the threads of the crankshaft.
page 40
page 41 18. Fit the OSSA clutch holding tool (No. 999-204) to the hubs of the clutch. Rotate the hubs clockwise until the handle
page 42 of the tool bears against the cush drive shaft. Using a 9 mm socket mounted Allen wrench, tighten the cush drive nut to

OSSA works manual
page 43 65-70 ft. lbs. torque (Fig. 99).

page 44
page 45 19. With the clutch tool still in position, tighten the clutch hub nut to 65-70 ft. lbs. of torque (Fig. 100).
page 46
page 47 20. Spin the inner clutch hub to make certain that the inner hub can rotate while the outer hub remains still.
page 48
page 49
page 50 Page 69
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
FIG. 100
page 10
page 11
21. Clean all 11 of the clutch plates thoroughly and examine them for wear or damage.
page 12
Place each plate on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass, to check for warpage. If any
page 13 plate shows signs of being bent, discard it and obtain a new one.
page 14
page 15 22. Fig. 101 shows the three types of plates used in each clutch assembly. There are
page 16 five clutch driving plates that each have a friction material bonded to it. There are 12
page 17 friction pads on each side of each plate. These friction pads are separated by little
page 18 grooves running between them. If the pads have worn down to the point where any one
page 19 of them is flush with the groove, replace it. In fact, it is good practice to replace all
page 20 five of the friction plates at once.
page 21
page 22 23. There are six steel clutch driven plates, one of which is thicker than the other five.
page 23 This thick plate goes in the clutch assembly first, followed by a friction plate and then
a steel driven plate. Fit another friction plate, then another driven plate. Continue this
page 24
alternating sequence until all of the platesare installed. The last one will be a steel
page 25
driven plate.
page 26
page 27
24. Install the clutch pressure plate and slide the five spring cups through the holes in
page 28 the pressure plate and down over the five studs in the inner clutch hub.
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 25. Measure the free length of each clutch spring. If any one of them measures less
page 31 than 1.170", replace it. As with the clutch plates, it is better to replace all the clutch
page 32 springs at once, thereby insuring even pressure under all conditions.
page 33
page 34 26. Put the springs into the spring cups and fit the slotted clutch spring nuts to the
page 35 studs. The studs each have a hole drilled through them and the nuts have two slots
page 36
across the top in order that they may be held in place with small cotter pins or safety
wire once they have been adjusted properly.
page 37
page 38
27. Turn each nut inward until a slot on the nut can be aligned with a hole in the stud
page 39
(approximately 11/2 to 2 turns), As shown in Fig. 102, the complete hole must be
page 40 visible in the slot; otherwise a cotter pin will not fit through it.
page 41
page 42 28. Do not install the cotter pins or safety wire yet.
page 43
page 44 29. At this point, turn the engine around so that the magneto side is facing you. You
page 45 must do this to temporarily install the magneto side engine case and clutch actuating
page 46 components in
page 47
page 48
page 49 Page 70
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11 FIG. 101
page 12
page 13 order to check the clutch operation.
page 14
page 15 30. If you have not already done so, remove the small seal from the center of the 5th driven gear.
page 16
page 17 31. Clean and inspect both of the clutch pushrods. If they are bent or badly worn, replace them.
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37 FIG. 102
page 38

OSSA works manual
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
32. Install the pushrods through the end of the 5th driven gear, being careful to install the ball bearing
page 43
between them. Install the oil seal back into the end of the 5th driven gear.
page 44
page 45
33. Clean the magneto side engine cover
page 46
page 47
page 48 Page 71
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86

OSSA works manual
thoroughly. If the clutch actuating mechanism is dirty, remove the 10 mm nut from the
OSSA end of the actuating arm and pull it up out of the case (Fig. 103). Clean the arm, the
Works inside of the case, and the other actuating components. Coat them all with light grease
manual and reinstall them back into the case. Use a large amount of grease on the clutch
actuating plunger to keep it from falling out while handling the case.
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17 FIG. 103
page 18
page 19 34. If you had removed the two hollow locating dowels from the magneto side of the
page 20
engine case, reinstall them. Install the magneto side engine cover and secure it with the
four screws. There are three sizes of screws for this case. The shortest goes in the top
page 21
rear hole. The longest goes in the bottom rear hole. The other two go in the front holes
page 22
(Fig. 104).
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51 FIG. 104
page 52
page 53 35. Install the kickstarter onto the kickstarter shaft.
page 54
36. Clamp the lower rear motor mount flange on the engine into a vise fitted with soft
page 55
faced
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
FIG. 105
page 96
page 97
page 98
Page 72
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
jaws. This will free both of your hands.

OSSA
Works 37. With one hand, attach the OSSA special tool (No. 121-957, clutch operating tool)
manual to the clutch actuating lever. Move it to the left far enough for the clutch pressure plate
by: Paul Dean to disengage. Hold it at that point, and with your other hand, push the kickstarter,
webified which will turn the pressure plate (Fig. 105). If the clutch springs are not adjusted
by: Bruce evenly, the pressure plate will not run true or will seem to "wobble" while turning.
Langdon
Index 1 38. To correct this, turn the kickstarter slowly while continuing to hold the clutch in a
Index 2 disengaged position. Locate and mark the point where the pressure plate is farthest
page 1 from the rest of the clutch plates. Release the clutch and turn the nut, or nuts, closest to
page 2 your mark inward one-half turn, and repeat the test. Do this until the pressure plate
runs true.
page 3
page 4
39. When reassembling a clutch that is worn somewhat, the springs should be turned in
page 5
another 1/2 to 11/2 turns farther than the usual amount, to correct for the wear in the
page 6
plates. Two things should be remembered when doing this.
page 7
page 8 (a) The nut cannot be turned in too far or the clutch will drag when disengaged and the
page 9 clutch will be hard to operate.
page 10
page 11 (b) If the nuts are turned in too far, the cotter pins or safety wire cannot hold them in
page 12 place and the rotation of the clutch will cause them to loosen while the engine is
page 13 running.
page 14
page 15 40. When the clutch nuts have been properly adjusted, install a cotter pin (OSSA Part
page 16 No. OCA-10015) through each stud and bend the legs of the pin outward. If safety
page 17 wire is used, draw the wire through each hole without moving the nut in the process.
page 18 When the wire has been threaded through all of the studs, twist the ends of the wire
page 19 together with 4 or 5 revolutions and bend the twisted end down against the pressure
plate to keep it from hitting the inside of the primary case while the clutch is turning.
page 20
page 21
41. Remove the magneto side cover, being careful not to lose the clutch actuating
page 22
plunger.
page 23
page 24
42. Slide the flat selector shaft retaining washer down on the selector shaft until it
page 25 contacts the snap ring. Then place the selector shaft spring washer over top of it.
page 26
page 27 43. If you had removed the two hollow guide pins from the left engine case, install
page 28 them back into the case. If you did not remove them, check their condition. If they are
page 29 bent or otherwise damaged, replace them.

OSSA works manual
page 30
44. Grease both sides of a new primary case gasket and fit the gasket to the engine.
page 31
page 32
45. Thoroughly clean the primary case and check the condition of the "0" rings that are
page 33 located in the selector shaft and kickstarter shaft holes. If the "0" rings appear to be
page 34 cut, flattened, or damaged in any way, replace them.
page 35
page 36 46. Turn the engine so that the primary drive is facing upward. Open a one quart can
page 37 of Full Bore SAE 80 Racing Gearbox Lubricant, or
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41 Page 73
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
SAE 30 motor oil, and empty its entire contents into the engine. When doing this, pour the oil all over
OSSA the primary drive components to insure that they have sufficient lubrication for when the engine is first
Works started.
manual
by: Paul Dean 47. There are two OSSA special tools used for the installation of the primary case; tool No. 121-950,
webified selector shaft "0" ring protector, and tool No. 121-951, kickstarter shaft "0" ring protector (Fig. 106).
by: Bruce These tools are used to keep the splines on the shafts from damaging the "0" rings when the primary
Langdon case is passed over them. To install the tools, grasp the large knurled part in one hand and push the
Index 1 sliding center bar all the way inward with the other hand. Hold the tool in this position and push it into
Index 2 the appropriate hole in the primary case. Then, when installing the primary case, the ends of the shafts
page 1 will push the center bar out of the tool, but the "0" ring will remain shielded until the spline has passed
it.
page 2
page 3
48. Fit the primary case to the engine pushing or tapping it gently down over th kickstarter shaft and
page 4
selector shaft (Fig. 107) Tap the case gently with a plastic or rawhid mallet to seat it against the engine
page 5
case.
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26 FIG. 106
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35

OSSA works manual
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 FIG. 107
page 58
page 59
page 60 Page 74
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81

OSSA works manual
49. Install the ten primary case screws. There are five short screws and five long ones. One of the short
OSSA screws is 2 or 3 mm longer than the others. Install the screws as shown in Fig. 108.
Works
manual 50. Using a large screwdriver or impact screwdriver, tighten the screws in the sequence
by: Paul Dean shown in Fig. 108.
webified
by: Bruce 51. Place the felt washer onto the selector shaft, then slide the shift lever into place on the shaft. Put a few
Langdon drops of Loctite on the 10 mm shift lever bolt, screw it into the lever, and tighten it.
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
FIG. 108
page 24
page 25
page 26 Page 75
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38

OSSA works manual
Section 5:
OSSA
Works Installing The Top End Components
manual
by: Paul Dean 1. Using a sharp knife, trim away any part of the center case gasket that protrudes from
webified between the cases at the cylinder mounting bosses. Squirt a small amount of oil into
by: Bruce the two main bearing oil holes drilled in the transfer port cutouts.
Langdon
Index 1 2. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod is at top dead center (T.D.C.). Wrap a
Index 2 clean shop rag around the rod, covering the opening of the crankcase. This will prevent
page 1 any parts or foreign material from falling into the c ran kcase while you are assembling
page 2 the components.
page 3
page 4 3. The piston, wrist pin, wrist pin bearing, and connecting rod are all coded to allow a
page 5 perfect select fit upon assembly. It is important to pay careful attention to this coding,
page 6 and assemble the top end using the correct components.
page 7
page 8 4. You will notice that there is a dab of paint on one side of the connecting rod just
below the wrist pin boss. This denotes the code for the connecting rod. The paint may
page 9
be either yellow, green, or red.
page 10
page 11
The piston has a dab of either black or white paint on the underside of the piston, on
page 12
one of the wrist pin bosses. This denotes the code for the piston.
page 13
page 14 The wristpin has a small dab of paint inside the hole on one end. This can also be
page 15 either black or white.
page 16 The wrist pin bearings have no identifying marks on them. They are all catalogued by
page 17 the same number and use a suffix (0-2, 2-4, etc.) after the part number for each
page 18 different size. There are four sizes.
page 19
page 20 5. To determine which parts you need is very easy, using the color code chart (Fig.
page 21 109). First, find out what color code is used on the piston you have selected for
page 22 reassembly. The color code of the wrist pin and the color code of the piston must
page 23 always be the same. If you purchased a complete piston assembly, the wrist pin and
piston were correctly matched at the factory. If you purchased the piston and wrist pin
page 24
separately, the colors on both must be the same.
page 25
page 26
6. Next, determine which color coding is used on your connecting rod, then refer to the
page 27
chart to determine which wrist pin bearing you will need.
page 28
page 29
NOTE: If you are in doubt as to which wrist pin bearing you possess, put the bearing

OSSA works manual
page 30 inside the connecting rod and insert the wrist pin into it. The pin should be easy to
page 31 slide through the bearing. Once you have the pin in place, hold the rod firmly with
page 32 your fingers and try to wiggle the wrist pin inside the bearing. If any play is detectable
page 33 between the pin and bearing, or if any force is required to push the pin into it, you have
page 34 the wrong bearing and it should not be used.
page 35
page 36
7. After you have correctly selected the proper top end components, take a new
cylinder base gasket and carefully slide it down over the studs, into place on the
page 37
crankcase. Inspect the area around the transfer port cutouts closely and if any of the
page 38
gasket
page 39
page 40
page 41 Page 76
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA COLOR CHART FOR SELECTION OF PROPER SIZE

Works
manual WRIST PIN BEARING
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce FIRST, READ
Langdon CON ROD
CON ROD
Index 1 COLOR AT
Index 2 WRIST PIN END
page 1
page 2 GREEN YELLOW RED
page 3 SECOND, READ
page 4 WRIST PIN
WRIST PIN -6-8 GREEN -4-6 WHITE 2-4 BLUE
page 5 WHITE
COLOR
page 6
page 7 WRIST PIN
-4-6 WHITE -2-4 BLUE 0-2 RED
page 8 BLACK
page 9
page 10
page 11 THIRD, SELECT COLOR OF WRIST PIN BEARING WHERE THE TWO STEPS
COINCIDE.
page 12
page 13
EXAMPLE: A CON ROD WITH A GREEN COLOR CODE ON THE
page 14
WRIST PIN END OF THE CON ROD AND A WRIST PIN COLOR
page 15
CODED WHITE WILL NEED A GREEN WRIST PIN BEARING No.-
page 16 6 -8 FOR PROPER CLEARANCE.
page 17 FIG. 109
page 18
page 19 protrudes into the cutouts, trim the excess with a sharp knife.
page 20
page 21 8. Squirt a few drops of oil onto the wrist pin bearing and insert it into the connecting
page 22 rod. Start the wrist pin into one side of the piston.
page 23
page 24 9. Set the piston on the connecting rod with the arrow on the top of the piston pointing
page 25 towards the front of the engine.
page 26
page 27 10. Align the piston and connecting rod properly by sliding the OSSA wrist pin drift
page 28 (No. 999-202) into the piston and through the wrist pin bearing until it butts up against
page 29 the end of the wrist pin.

OSSA works manual
page 30 11. Support the piston with one hand to prevent side loading the connecting rod and
page 31 push the wrist pin inward with the other until the wrist pin drift drops out. (Fig. 110).
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35 Page 77
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 110
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49 FIG. 111
page 50
page 51 NOTE: Do not attempt to position the wrist pin by hammering it with a mallet, as this
page 52 may bend the connecting rod. If the wrist pin proves difficult to move, use a wrist pin
page 53 driving tool as shown in Fig. 111 to install the pin.
page 54
page 55 12. Using a pair of needle nose or duck bill pliers, install both wrist pin clips in the
page 56 piston (Fig. 112). If you can rotate either of these clips in their grooves after
page 57 installation, remove and discard them and install new ones.
page 58
page 59 13. Install both rings on the piston, making sure that the small peg in each ring groove
page 60 is centered between the ends of the ring. Be certain that neither ring can bind in its
page 61 groove. Squirt a few drops of oil on the rings and work it around to lubricate all of
each ring.
page 62
page 63
14. Remove the shop rag and turn the engine very carefully until the piston is at
page 64
bottom dead center (B.D.C.). Slide the cylinder down over the studs until the bottom
page 65
of the liner rests squarely on the top ring.
page 66
page 67 15. The bottom inside of the cylinder liner has a small chamfer machined around its
page 68 circumference to make the rings easier to start into the cylinder. Using your fingers, or
page 69 a ring compressor, compress the rings, being careful not to allow either ring to ride up
OSSA works manual
page 70 over the peg in its groove or out of its groove. Carefully work the cylinder down over
page 71 the piston and seat the cylinder against the engine cases (Fig. 113).
page 72
page 73 NOTE: A ring compressor can be easily fabricated from a hose clamp. Locate a clamp
page 74 of sufficient diameter to encircle the piston. At three or four points around the
page 75 circumference,
page 76
page 77
Page 78
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 112
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 FIG. 113

page 31
page 32 grasp what will be the top edge of the clamp with a pair of needle nose pliers or wire
page 33 cutters, and make a small kink outwards, as shown in Fig. 114. Install it around the
page 34 piston and rings, and tighten it until it has fully compressed the rings (Fig. 115). Do
page 35 not overtighten the clamp,
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56 FIG. 114
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
FIG. 115
page 88
page 89
as it will then not slide freely when the cylinder is installed. Place the cylinder over
page 90
the piston and slide it down over the rings. The compressor will slide out of the way as
page 91
the cylinder moves downward. As soon as the rings are completely inside the cylinder,
page 92
page 93
page 94 Page 79
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
remove the compressor and slide the cylinder down onto the engine cases.
OSSA
Works 16. Slide the kickstarter lever onto the kickstarter shaft and bolt it into place. While
manual holding the cylinder firmly in place, operate the kickstarter and check to be sure that
by: Paul Dean the piston can move freely.
webified
by: Bruce 17. Inspect the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the top of the cylinder. Make
Langdon certain these two surfaces are smooth and clean.
Index 1
Index 2 18. Place a new head gasket on the cylinder and center it on the top of the liner.
page 1
page 2 NOTE:
page 3 (a) 250cc TT and DM R engines use a 1 mm
page 4 thick head gasket.
page 5
page 6 (b) 250cc Pioneer and Stiletto engines use a
page 7
2 mm thick head gasket.
page 8
(c) 25Occ Plonker engines use a 3 mm thick
page 9
head gasket.
page 10
page 11
(d) All 175cc engines use a 1 mm thick
page 12
head gasket.
page 13
page 14 Be sure you have the correct gasket for the engine you are assembling.
page 15
page 16 19. Slide the head down the studs into place on the cylinder. The higher ends of the
page 17 cooling fins are on the front of the head. Fit the flat washers to the cylinder studs and
page 18 mo6nt the four 12 mm nuts, turning them down finger tight.
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
FIG. 116
page 51
page 52
20. Fit a 12 mm socket to a low reading torque wrench and torque the nuts to 5 ft. lbs.
page 53
(60 inch lbs.) using the sequence shown in Fig. 116, which is (1) LF, (2) RR, (3) RF,
page 54
(4)1LR. Repeat this sequence a second time, torqueing the nuts to 10 ft. lbs. (120 inch
page 55 Ibs.). Repeat a third and final time, using 15 ft. lbs. (180 inch Ibs.).
page 56
page 57 NOTE: If you attempt to tighten the cylinder heads in any other sequence, without a
page 58 torque wrench, or with a torque wrench that is not accurate at very low readings, you
page 59 run the risk of warping the cylinder head or causing piston seizure due to cylinder
page 60 distortion.
page 61
page 62 21. Install a new sparkplug of the correct type and heat range and tighten it finger
page 63 tight.
page 64
page 65 22. Cover the intake and exhaust manifolds to prevent trash from entering the engine
page 66 while you are handling it.
page 67
page 68
Page 80
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 6:
Works
manual Installing The Magneto Side
by: Paul Dean
webified Components And Timing The Magneto
by: Bruce
Langdon 1. Examine the Woodruff key that locates the magneto flywheel on the crankshaft. If it
Index 1 shows any signs of wear or damage, replace it with a new one. Before fitting it into its
Index 2 slot in the crankshaft, lay it upside down on a hard surface and tap its rounded edge
page 1 with a ball peen hammer, as shown in Fig. 117. This will very slightly widen the key
page 2 so it will fit tightly in the slot and be less likely to dislodge while you are installing the
page 3 magneto flywheel. Tap the key into its slot in the crankshaft.
page 4
page 5 2. The magneto assembly has two basic pieces. The large round piece that bolts onto
page 6 the crankshaft is called the MAGENTO FLYWHEEL OR MAGNETO ROTOR. The
page 7
other piece which houses all of the windings and is encased in red epoxy is called the
MAGNETO STATOR OR MAGNETO BACKING PLATE.
page 8
page 9
3. Closely examine the magneto stator for broken or cut wires or other apparent
page 10
damage. Without using any harsh solvents, clean the stator thoroughly and blow it dry
page 11 with compressed air. Be especially careful to remove any trace of metal filings that
page 12 may be on the stator.
page 13
page 14 4. When you disassembled the engine you were instructed to scribe a reference line
page 15 across the edge of the magneto stator and one of its mounting bosses on the engine
page 16 case. Locate these marks and position the stator on the engine so that they are aligned.
page 17 Install the three backing plate mounting screws and tighten them.
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
FIG. 117
page 49
page 50
5. Fit the rubber grommet on the magneto wires into the slot in the bottom of the
page 51
engine case. Install the magneto wire clip on the lower right side of the righthand
page 52
engine case. Be sure to use Loctite on the threads of the 10 mm bolt that secures this
page 53 clip.
page 54
page 55 6. Position the magneto flywheel in front of the crankshaft. Look through the hole in
page 56 the center of the flywheel and turn it until the slot in the center is aligned with the
page 57 Woodruff key on the crankshaft. Mount the flywheel on the crankshaft, pressing it into
page 58 position with your hands. Tap on the face of the flywheel with the side of your hand to
page 59 be sure that it has seated fully on the crankshaft. Do not install the nut.
page 60
page 61 7. There is a small hole on the face of the magneto flywheel. There is a matching small
page 62 hole in the magneto stator. Rotate the flywheel until its small hole is located at
page 63 approximately the 5 o'clock position. Insert the OSSA timing pin (Part No. 114-083)
page 64
page 65
page 66 Page 81
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
through the hole in the flywheel and then work the flywheel back and forth slightly
OSSA until the pin can be inserted into the small hole in the stator. This is the position at
Works which the spark plug will fire (Fig. 118). Allow the timing pin to remain installed
manual between the magneto flywheel and stator.
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
FIG. 118
page 14
page 15 8. You will now need a dial indicator to locate the position of the piston while timing
page 16 the engine. There are several types of dial indicators and sparkplug hole adapters
page 17 available through most motorcycle accessory distributors or machinist supply firms.
page 18 Since most of them are similar, the procedures for using them are usually the same.
page 19
page 20 9. Most timing dial gauge kits consist of a dial gauge calibrated either in millimeters or
page 21 thousandths, an adapter that screws into the sparkplug hole, and a plunger that fits into
page 22 the adapter, between the piston and the indicator (Fig. 119). To install the gauge,
page 23 remove the sparkplug and screw the adapter tightly into the hole. Drop the plunger
page 24 down through the center of the adapter and then set the dial indicator into the center of
page 25
the adapter. With the timing pin still locking the magneto flywheel and stator together,
push the dial indicator downward until the needle on the indicator begins to turn.
page 26
When the needle has completed one full revolution, tighten the lock screw on the
page 27
adapter which will lock the indicator in place.
page 28
page 29 10. Dial indicators all have a rotatable face so that you can move the numbers. Rotate

OSSA works manual
page 30 the face so that the needle reads "zero." (Fig. 120).
page 31
page 32 11. Remove the timing pin and rock the magneto flywheel back and forth slightly. If
page 33 the dial indicator needle does not move every time you move the flywheel, this means
page 34 that the plunger is too short and will need to be lengthened or replaced with a longer
page 35 one.
page 36
page 37 12. Once you are sure that the plunger is long enough, reinstall the timing pin between
the flywheel and stator. Check and reset the dial indicator to zero if necessary. Then
page 38
remove the timing pin and turn the flywheel clockwise, counting the number of
page 39
complete revolutions the large needle makes before it stops moving. The point where
page 40 the needle stops moving is top dead center. Stop the flywheel at that point and add the
page 41 number of revolutions the needle made to the decimal fraction that the dial indicator is
page 42 reading. For example, if the large needle passed zero three times and stopped at a
page 43 reading of 15, then the ignition timing is 3.15 mm before top dead center (B.T.D.C.).
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47 Page 82
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
13. The correct ignition timing for the 1971-72 OSSAS are listed in the timing chart,
OSSA Fig. 121.
Works
manual 14. If the ignition timing is not within these tolerances, remove the magneto flywheel,
by: Paul Dean and loosen the three magneto stator mounting screws.
webified
by: Bruce 15. If the timing figure you came up with was less than what the chart recommends, then
Langdon the timing is retarded. To correct this, rotate the magneto stator counterclockwise an
Index 1 amount you estimate to be sufficient to correct the timing.
Index 2
page 1 16. If the timing figure you came up with was more than what the chart recommends,
page 2 then the timing is advanced. To correct this, rotate the magneto stator clockwise an
page 3 amount you estimate to be sufficient to correct the timing.
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24 FIG. 119
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30

OSSA works manual
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 FIG. 120
page 58
page 59
Page 83
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69
page 70

OSSA works manual
OSSA 1971-72 OSSA

IGNITION TIMING CHART
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
MODEL TIMING SPECIFICATION
webified
by: Bruce 250 Pioneer 2.75-3.0 mm B.T.D.C.
Langdon 250 Stiletto & T.T. & D.M.R. 3.0 mm B.T.D.C.
Index 1
250 Plonker 2.5-3.0 rnm B.T.D.C.
Index 2
175 Pioneer 2.25-2.5 mm B.T.D.C.
page 1
page 2 175 Stiletto 2.5-2.75 mm B.T.D.C.
page 3
page 4 FIG. 121
page 5
page 6 17. After making your adjustment, tighten the three magneto stator mounting screws
page 7 and slide the flywheel back onto the crankshaft. Recheck the timing. If the timing is
page 8
still outside the allowable tolerance, repeat this procedure until it is corrected.
page 9
18. When the timing is correct, remove the dial indicator, plunger, and adapter.
page 10
page 11
19. Fit the star type lock washer to the crankshaft and put a few drops of Loctite on the
page 12
threads of the magneto flywheel nut. Turn the nut down finger tight. Fit the OSSA
page 13
flywheel holding tool (No. 999-206) to the slots in the flywheel. Using a 26 mm
page 14 socket, torque the magneto flywheel nut to 60 ft. lbs. (Fig. 122).
page 15
page 16 20. Sometimes the Woodruff key that locates the magneto flywheel on the crankshaft
page 17 is slightly narrower than the keyway on the flywheel into which it fits. Because of this,
page 18 it could be possible for the flywheel to shift
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 FIG. 122
page 59
page 60
page 61 Page 84
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
slightly when the nut is torqued. For this reason, many mechanics prefer to make a
OSSA precautionary timing check after torqueing the nut. Although the amount that the
Works timing could change is very small, this final check is worth doing.
manual
by: Paul Dean 21. Replace the sparkplug, and using a 13/16" deep socket, torque it to 18 ft. lbs.
webified
by: Bruce 22. You may want to leave the magneto cover off until the engine is put back into the
Langdon frame and the chain has been installed. However, if you wish to install it now, coat the
Index 1 clutch actuating plunger with grease to keep it from falling out. There is no gasket
Index 2 between the magneto case and the engine, but it is recommended that the case be
page 1 sealed with a good brand of silicone rubber sealer. Even though the Motoplat ignition
page 2 can fire a plug when the magneto is drowned in water, it is a good policy to seal the
case to protect the crankshaft oil seal and to keep moisture from corroding the metal
page 3
parts.
page 4
page 5
23. Install the four magneto case mounting screws. The shortest one goes in the top
page 6
rear hole; the longest one in the bottom rear hole; and the other two, being both the
page 7 same length, can go in either of front holes. Tighten them securely with a large
page 8 screwdriver or an impact screwdriver.
page 9
page 10 24. Move the clutch actuating arm back and forth. It should have at least 1/2" to 5/8"
page 11 movement. If it does not, turn the engine around to the primary side and loosen and
page 12 remove the two screws securing th6 small inspection cover in the middle of the case.
page 13 Remove the cover and it exposes the clutch pressure plate with a pushrod adjusting
page 14 screw and lock nut. Loosen the nut in the center of the pressure plate. Some models
page 15 have a 13 mm nut and some use a 14 mm nut. With a screwdriver, turn the adjuster
page 16 screw clockwise until it starts to bind (Fig. 123). At this point there should be no play
at all in the clutch actuating arm. Then, turn the screw counterclockwise approximately
page 17
two turns, or until there is 1/2" to 5/8" movement in the arm. Tighten the lock nut and
page 18
recheck the movement of the arm. Reinstall the inspection cover, two lock washers
page 19 and two screws. Tighten the screws securely.
page 20
page 21 25. The engine is now ready for installation into the frame.
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48 FIG. 123
page 49
page 50
Page 85
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA Blank Page

Works
manual Page 86
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA PART B - CARBURETION

Works
manual CHAPTER 1:
by: Paul Dean
webified
OPERATION
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1 Section 1:
Index 2
page 1 Metering Systems
page 2
page 3 1. When the flow of fuel or air in a carburetor is regulated, this regulation is called
"metering."
page 4
page 5
2. A metering system consists of an air metering device and a fuel metering device.
page 6
page 7
3. It is not practical to build a carburetor that has only one metering system to regulate
page 8
the flow of fuel and air from closed throttle to wide open throttle. Therefore, each
page 9 carburetor has several metering systems to regulate air and fuel flow in different ways
page 10 at different throttle openings.
page 11
page 12 4. All OSSA motorcycles, with the exception of the Plonker, use an IRZ double needle
page 13 carburetor of either 29 mm or 33 mm venturi size. These carburetors all work in the
page 14 same fashion. However, there are slight differences from one model to another,
page 15 therefore these differences will be covered in separate sections.
page 16
page 17 SECTIONS 2 thru 7 WILL COVER THE OPERATION OF THE CARBURETORS
page 18 FITTED TO ALL 1971 and 1972 OSSA MODELS WITH THE EXCEPTION OF
page 19 THE PLONKER TRIALS
page 20
page 21
Page 87
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40 0 to 1/8 Throttle: Pilot Metering System
page 41
page 42

OSSA works manual
Section 2:
OSSA
Works 0 to 1/8 Throttle: The Pilot Metering
manual
by: Paul Dean System (Fig. 124)
webified
by: Bruce 1. The pilot metering system feeds fuel and air from 0 to 1/8 throttle. Fuel is metered
Langdon by the pilot fuel jet. Air is metered by the pilot air jet and the throttle slide. There is
Index 1 also a low-speed mixture screw, which meters pre-mixed fuel and air into the venturi
Index 2 of the carburetor.
page 1
page 2 2. When the throttle is closed and the engine is idling, the upward movement of the
page 3 piston creates a vacuum in the intake port. This vacuum causes air to be sucked into
page 4 the small left-hand hole beneath the mouth of the carburetor. This air is metered
page 5 through the pilot air jet which is located just inside this hole. The air then flows over a
page 6 passage which houses the pilot fuel jet. This causes fuel to be drawn up through the
page 7
pilot jet and become mixed with the air, forming tiny droplets.
page 8
3. This pre-mixed fuel then flows past the low speed mixture screw and enters the
page 9
carburetor bore through a small hole just in front of the slide. The mixture then enters
page 10
the engine.
page 11
page 12
4. As the throttle is opened just slightly, the fuel mixture can also enter the engine
page 13 through a small hole just insdie the front edge of the slide. On the 1971 250 Pioneer
page 14 models, this hole is in a small brass tube located just inside the front edge of the slide.
page 15 Due to the slide being raised slightly, larger amounts of air flow over these two holes,
page 16 causing more fuel to be drawn up out of them.
page 17
page 18 5. You can vary the proportion of the mixture from 0 to 1/8 throttle by either changing
page 19 the pilot fuel jet or pilot air jet (which is seldom necessary), or by adjusting the low
page 20 speed mixture screw beneath the mounting flange on the right side of the carburetor.
page 21 Rotate the screw clockwise to make the mixture leaner; rotate it counterclockwise to
page 22 make the mixture richer.
page 23
6. Correct adjustment of the pilot metering system is as important to a competition
page 24
engine as it is to a street or trail machine. Even though you do not want the Stiletto or
page 25
T.T. engine to idle when the throttle is closed, you should still make certain that the
page 26
pilot metering system is properly adjusted. If this is not done, the engine may hesitate
page 27 badly when accelerating from a lower RPM if the mixture is too lean, or a loading up
page 28 condition may be present if the mixture is too rich.
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 7. The pilot metering system continues to work in conjunction with other metering
page 31 systems at larger throttle openings, although its influence is greatly decreased.
page 32
page 33
page 34
Page 89
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40 1/8 to 1/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway & Mid-Range Needle
page 41
page 42 FIG. 125
OSSA works manual
Section 3:
OSSA
Works 1/8 to 1/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway and
manual
by: Paul Dean Mid-Range Needle (Fig. 125)
webified
by: Bruce 1 . You will notice that the carburetor slide has its bottom edge cut away on the air
Langdon intake side. This is called the slide cutaway.
Index 1
Index 2 2. There are two tubes protruding from the bottom of the carburetor venturi bore. The
page 1 shortest one, or the one closest to the engine, is the mid-range needle jet. The long one
page 2 is the high speed needle jet. The tapered needles in the slide project down into these
page 3 tubes and, as the slide is raised, the needles are drawn up out of them, metering the
page 4 flow of fuel accordingly.
page 5
page 6 3. As the slide moves from 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, air flows past the mid-range needle jet.
page 7 If the air could flow squarely across the top of the needle jet, it would create
page 8 considerable vacuum in it, therefore sucking too much fuel from it. This is the reason
for the slide cutaway, so as to direct air downward against the mouth of the needle jet.
page 9
This decreases the amount of vacuum formed, thereby decreasing the amount of fuel
page 10
flow.
page 11
page 12
4. The higher the cutaway (stamped in millimeters on the top of the slide), the smaller
page 13 the fuel flow (leaner mixture). The smaller the cutaway, the greater the fuel flow
page 14 (richer mixture).
page 15
page 16 5. The mixture at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle can be adjusted in two ways. A slide with a higher
page 17 or lower cutaway can be fitted to make the mixture leaner or richer at that point. It
page 18 must be remembered, however, that changing the
page 19 slide will also affect the mixture at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle as you will see in Section 5.
page 20
page 21 6. It is always best to vary the mixture at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle by raising or lowering the
page 22 needles. Each needle is suspended from the slide by means of a clip fitted to one of
page 23 three grooves in the needle. Putting the clip in a lower groove raises the needle,
thereby enrichening the mixture. Moving the clip to a higher groove lowers the needle,
page 24
making the mixture leaner.
page 25
page 26
page 27 Page 91
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41 FIG. 126

OSSA works manual
Section 4:
OSSA
Works 1/4 to 1/2 Throttle: Slide and Mid-Range
manual
by: Paul Dean Metering System (Fig. 126)
webified
by: Bruce 1. From 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, the flow of air is regulated by the throttle slide. As the slide
Langdon is raised further above the top of the mid-range needle jet, the slide cutaway does not
Index 1 direct air downward on it as effectively. Because of this, a greater vacuum is formed,
Index 2 increasing the amount of fuel drawn from the needle jet.
page 1
page 2 2. At this throttle opening, the needle has been withdrawn halfway from the mid-range
page 3 needle jet and the mid-range main jet becomes the primary fuel metering device. The
page 4 needle continues to meter fuel as the slide is raised even further, but the mid-range
page 5 main jet controls the amount of fuel that is available to flow past the needle.
page 6
page 7 3. Because the venturi of the carburetor is round, a small upward movement of the
page 8 slide near or at 1/2 throttle position will allow for a much larger volume of air to flow
than the same movement at a higher or lower throttle opening. This creates a greatly
page 9
increased demand for fuel. The mid-range metering system cannot supply this fuel
page 10
alone, because only the volume of air flowing over the needle jet has been increased
page 11 greatly, not the vacuum over it. To compensate for this, a booster system is provided.
page 12
page 13 4. To boost the flow of fuel, air enters the right-hand small hole beneath the mouth of
page 14 the carburetor. This air is routed through a small air jet, directly into the mid-range
page 15 needle jet through several small holes drilled halfway up it. This passage of air up the
page 16 needle jet boosts the flow of fuel which is necessary to meet the
page 17 demand. Although the booster -system is working at all throttle openings above idle, it
page 18 is most effective around 1/2 throttle.
page 19
page 20 5. On the 1971 250 Pioneer, this booster system is adjustable. Air enters the center
page 21 small hole beneath the mouth of the carburetor. (Fig. 127) It then flows past a metering
page 22 screw before going through the small air jet and into the needle jet. Turning this screw
clockwise decreases the air flow through the booster system, thereby making the
page 23
mixture leaner. Turning it counterclockwise increases the air flow, making the mixture
page 24
richer. (Fig. 128)
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60 FIG. 127
page 61
page 62
page 63 Page 93
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17 FIG. 128
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53 FIG. 129
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95 FIG. 130
page 96
page 97
page 98 Page 94
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
6. To richen the mixture even more at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, you could fit a mid-range
OSSA needle jet with larger holes (the larger number stamped on the needle jet gives the size
Works of the booster air holes), or to make it leaner, you could install one with smaller holes.
manual However, because the variety of these needle jets are somewhat limited, it is more
practical to change the mid-range main jet if the mixture needs correction at this
by: Paul Dean
throttle position.
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon 7. The 1972 250 and 175 Pioneer & Stiletto models incorporate a slightly different
Index 1 carburetor main body and jet block. (Figs. 129 & 130). This jet block is an integral
Index 2 part of the body, therefore, the metering passages can be held to closer tolerances. This
page 1 eliminates the need for a booster system, therefore these 1972 OSSA's do not use such
a system.
page 2
page 3
8. The proportion of the mixture at 1/2 throttle also affects the mixture at wider throttle
page 4
openings.
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8 Page 95
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42 FIG. 131

OSSA works manual
Section 5:
OSSA
Works 112 to 3/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway and High
manual
by: Paul Dean Speed Needle (Fig. 131)
webified
by: Bruce 1. From 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, the additional flow of air is regulated by the slide cutaway.
Langdon As in the mid-range system, the cutaway directs air downward over the high speed
Index 1 needle jet, limiting the amount of vacuum formed over it. As the slide is raised higher
Index 2 over the needle jet, the air passes more directly over the top of it, creating more
page 1 vacuum, thereby drawing more fuel.
page 2
page 3 2. The amount of fuel at this point is regulated by the high speed needle and needle jet.
page 4
page 5 3. You can vary the mixture from 1/2 to 3/4 throttle by using a slide with a different
page 6 cutaway, but this will affect the mixture from 1/8 to 1/4 throttle also.
page 7
page 8 4. You can vary the mixture at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle by changing the high speed needle
page 9 and needle jet. Again, this is impractical due to the limited selection of these parts
page 10
available.
page 11
5. It is best to vary the mixture at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle by raising the high speed needle to
page 12
richen the mixture and lowering it to lean the mixture.
page 13
page 14
page 15 Page 97
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
FIG. 132
page 42

OSSA works manual
Section 6:
OSSA
Works 3/4 to Full Throttle: Slide and High Speed
manual
by: Paul Dean Main Jet (Fig. 132)
webified
by: Bruce 1. From 3/4 to full throttle, the additional flow of air is regulated by the position of the
Langdon slide. As the slide nears the top of the bore, the cutaway has less and less effect. A
Index 1 higher vacuum is then created at the high speed
Index 2 needle jet, drawing out an increasing amount of fuel.
page 1
page 2 2. As the needle is raised higher in the high speed needle jet, it becomes less effective
page 3 in metering the flow of fuel accurately. As the slide reaches wide open throttle, the
page 4 high speed main jet controls the flow of fuel.
page 5
page 6 3. To vary the mixture from 3/4 to full throttle, it is best to fit a larger high speed main
page 7 jet to richen the mixture, or a smaller one to make the mixture leaner.
page 8
page 9 4. NOTE: Each metering system blends gradually with the one preceding it and the
page 10
one following it. The objective of regulating the carburetor is to arrive at a condition
wherein there is a smooth transition from one metering system to the next and the
page 11
proportion- of fuel and air remains the same from closed throttle to full throttle.
page 12
page 13
page 14 Page 99
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 7:
Works
manual The Float Metering Device (Fig. 133)
by: Paul Dean
webified 1. The float mechanism provides a constant level of fuel for the fuel metering systems.
by: Bruce This constant fuel pressure allows for an even rate of flow through the jets.
Langdon
Index 1 2. When the fuel flows through the metering jet in the top of the float bowl, the fuel
Index 2 level in the bowl rises. This causes the float to rise and a small bracket on the float
page 1 presses against the bottom of the float needle, pushing it up into the metering jet.
page 2 When the fuel reaches a predetermined point, the bracket on the float should be
page 3 adjusted so that the needle is fully seated in the float metering jet, stopping the flow of
page 4 fuel. See Chapter 2, Section 2, Par. 7, 8, & 9 for adjustment and maintenance of the
page 5 float mechanism.
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59 FIG. 133
page 60
page 61
page 62 Page 100
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon SECTIONS 8 THROUGH 12 WILL COVER
Index 1 THE OPERATION OF THE 24 and 27 mm
Index 2 SINGLE NEEDLE IRZ CARBURETOR
page 1 FITTED TO THE 1971-72 PLONKER MODELS.
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 Page 101
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
FIG. 134

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 8:
Works
manual 0 to 1/8 Throttle: The Pilot Metering System
by: Paul Dean
webified (Fig. 134)
by: Bruce
Langdon 1. The pilot metering system feeds fuel and air from 0 to 1/8 throttle. Fuel is metered
Index 1 by the pilot fuel jet. Air is metered by the low speed air screw and the carburetor slide.
Index 2
page 1 2. When the throttle is closed and the engine is idling, the upward movement of the
page 2 piston creates a vacuum in the intake port. This vacuum causes air to be sucked into
page 3 the left-hand hole beneath the intake mouth of the carburetor. This air flows through a
page 4 passage that leads to the low speed air screw. This screw meters the amount of air
page 5 available to flow past a small orifice that connects to the pilot fuel jet.
page 6
page 7 3. At this orifice, the fuel and air are mixed together and then flow into the carburetor
page 8 bore through a small hole just in front of the slide. The mixture then enters the engine.
page 9
page 10
4. As the throttle is opened just slightly, the fuel mixture can also enter the engine
through another small hole just inside the front edge of the slide. Due to the slide being
page 11
raised slightly, larger amounts of air flow over these two holes, causing more fuel to
page 12
be drawn up out of them.
page 13
page 14 5. You can vary the proportion of the mixture from 0 to 1/8 throttle by changing the
page 15 pilot fuel jet. A larger number jet will make the mixture richer: a small number jet will
page 16 make it leaner.
page 17
page 18 6. You can also vary the mixture from 0 to 1/8 throttle by adjusting the low speed air
page 19 screw. Turning this screw clockwise makes the mixture richer; turning it counter-
page 20 clockwise makes it leaner.
page 21
page 22 7. Correct adjustment of the pilot metering system is a must for a trials motorcycle.
page 23 Since throttle control and engine response play a major role in trials riding, particular
page 24 attention should be paid to the pilot metering system to insure that no power loss or
page 25 hesitation is present.
page 26
8. The pilot metering system continues to work in conjunction with other metering
page 27
systems at larger throttle openings, although its influence is greatly decreased.
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41

OSSA works manual
Section 9:
OSSA
Works 1/8 to 1/4 Throttle: Slide Cutaway and
manual
by: Paul Dean Needle Jet (Fig. 135)
webified
by: Bruce 1. You will notice that the carburetor slide has its bottom edge put away on the air
Langdon intake side. This is called the slide cutaway.
Index 1
Index 2 2. There is a tube protruding from the bottom of the carburetor bore. This tube is called
page 1 the needle jet. The tapered needle in the slide projects down into this tube, and as the
page 2 slide is raised, the needle is drawn up out of the tu be, metering the f low of fuel
page 3 accordingly.
page 4
page 5 3. As the slide moves from 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, air flows past the needle jet. If the air
page 6 could flow squarely across the top of the needle jet, it would create considerable
page 7 vacuum in it, therefore sucking too much fuel from it. This is the reason for the slide
page 8 cutaway, so as to direct air downward against the mouth of the needle jet. This
decreases the amount of vacuum formed, thereby decreasing the amount of fuel flow.
page 9
page 10
4. The higher the cutaway (stamped in millimeters on the bottom of the slide), the
page 11
smaller the fuel flow (leaner mixture). The lower the cutaway, the greater the fuel flow
page 12
(richer mixture).
page 13
page 14 5. The mixture at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle can be varied in two ways. A needle jet with a
page 15 larger hole could be fitted. However, the selection of these needle jets is limited. It is
page 16 always best to vary the mixture at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle by installing a slide with a higher
page 17 or lower cutaway.
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21 Page 105
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41 FIG. 136

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 10:

Works
manual 1/4 to 3/4 Throttle: Slide, Needle Position and Booster
by: Paul Dean System (Fig. 136)
webified
by: Bruce 1. From 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, the slide regulates the flow of air. As the slide is raised
Langdon further above the top of the needle jet, the cutaway becomes decreasingly effective in
Index 1 directing the air downward. Because of this, the air flows more squarely across the top
Index 2 of the needle jet. This increases the amount of vacuum formed in the needle jet,
page 1 thereby drawing a greater amount of fuel from it.
page 2
page 3 2. At this throttle opening, the flow of fuel is regulated by the tapered needle. As the
page 4 slide moves from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, the needle is withdrawn proportionately from the
page 5 needle jet, thereby allowing for a greater flow of fuel.
page 6
page 7
3. The mixture at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle can be adjusted by raising or lowering the needle.
The needle is suspended in the slide by means of a clip fitted to one of three grooves in
page 8
the needle. Putting the clip in a lower notch raises the needle, making the mixture
page 9
richer. Moving the clip to a higher groove lowers the needle, making the mixture
page 10 leaner.
page 11
page 12 4. Because the venturi of the carburetor is round, a small upward movement of the
page 13 slide at or near 1/2 throttle position will allow for a much larger volume of air to flow
page 14 through the carburetor bore than the same movement at a higher or lower throttle
page 15 opening. This creates a greatly increased demand for fuel. The needle jet cannot
page 16 supply this fuel alone, because only the volume of air flowing over it has increased,
page 17 not the vacuum created in it. To compensate for this, a booster system is provided.
page 18
page 19 5. To boost the flow of fuel, air enters the center small hole beneath the intake mouth
page 20 of the carburetor. (Fig. 137) This air is routed directly to the needle jet through several
page 21
small holes drilled halfway up it. This passage of air up the needle jet boosts the flow
of fuel which is necessary to meet the demand. Although the booster system is
page 22
working at all throttle openings above idle, it is most effective around 1/2 throttle.
page 23
There are no provisions for adjustment of the booster system on the 24 mm and 27 mm
page 24 IRZ carburetors.
page 25
page 26 6. The proportion of the mixture at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle also affects the mixture at wider
page 27 throttle openings.
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59 Fig. 137
page 60
page 61
Page 107
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40 FIG. 138
page 41

OSSA works manual
Section 11:
OSSA
Works 3/4 to Full Throttle: Slide and Main Jet
manual
by: Paul Dean (Fig. 138)
webified
by: Bruce 1 . From 3/4 to full throttle, the additional flow of air is regulated by the position of the
Langdon slide. As the slide nears the- top of the bore, the cutaway has little or no effect. A
Index 1 higher vacuum is then created at the needle jet, drawing out an increasing amount of
Index 2 fuel.
page 1
page 2 2. As the needle is raised higher in the needle jet by the upward movement of the slide,
page 3 it becomes less effective in metering the flow of fuel accurately. From 3/4 to full
page 4 throttle, the main jet controls the flow of fuel.
page 5
page 6 3. To vary the mixture from 3/4 to full throttle, fit a main jet with a higher number to
page 7 make it richer, or with a lower number to make it leaner.
page 8
page 9 4. NOTE: Each metering system blends gradually with the one preceding it and the
page 10
one following it. The objective of regulating the carburetor is to arrive at a condition
wherein there is a smooth transition from one metering system to the next and the
page 11
proportion of fuel and air remains the same from closed throttle to full throttle.
page 12
page 13
page 14 Section 12:
page 15
page 16 The Float Metering Device (Fig. 139)
page 17
page 18 1. The float mechanism provides a constant level of fuel for the fuel metering system.
page 19 This constant fuel pressure allows for an even rate of flow through the jets.
page 20
page 21 2. When the fuel flows through the float metering jet in the top of the float bowl, the
page 22 fuel level in the bowl rises. This causes the float to rise and push the float needle up
page 23 into the float metering jet. When the fuel reaches a predetermined point, the float will
page 24 have risen to a point that is sufficient to fully seat the float needle in the metering jet,
page 25 stopping the flow of fuel. Chapter 2, Section 2, Paragraph 9 covers the adjustment and
page 26 maintenance of the float mechanism.
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61 FIG. 139
page 62
page 63
page 64 Page 109
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
CHAPTER 2:
OSSA
Works ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING OF THE
manual
by: Paul Dean CARBURETOR
webified
by: Bruce Section 1:
Langdon
Index 1
Locating the Problem
Index 2
page 1
1. You should not attempt to change the mixture proportions on any carburetor until
page 2 you are assured that the rest of the engine is properly tuned . Changing the carburetor
page 3 settings on an engine that has a problem elsewhere will only result in a subsequent loss
page 4 of overall performance and perhaps engine damage. Carburetor adjustment should be
page 5 the final step in a tune-up procedure.
page 6
page 7 2. The most difficult and most important part of any repair job is locating and
page 8 correcting the actual problem and its cause. This is especially true in troubleshooting a
page 9 carburetion problem, because the failure of many other parts of the machine will affect
page 10 the carburetion.
page 11
page 12 For this reason, before attempting to regulate the carburetor, it must be determined that
page 13
the air cleaner is clean and free of restrictions, the fuel tank has sufficient fuel, and the
filter screens on the petcocks and carburetor fuel inlet banjo are not clogged.
page 14
page 15
The breather tube on the fuel tank must be checked for restrictions.
page 16
page 17
The spark plug must be of the proper type and heat range.
page 18
page 19
The ignition timing should be within the tolerances given in the specifications and all
page 20 electrical connections must be clean and tight. All ignition components should be in
page 21 good working order.
page 22
page 23 The crankshaft seals, head gasket, cylinder base gasket and engine center case gasket
page 24 must be in good condition and the screws and nuts that secure these gaskets should be
page 25 properly tightened.
page 26
page 27 The piston clearance must fall within the acceptable limits and the rings must not be
page 28 worn enough to allow compression to leak past them.
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 The carburetor must be mounted to its manifold properly with no air leaks and the
page 31 float bowl and internal fuel and air passages within the carburetor must be clean and
page 32 free from restrictions.
page 33
page 34 Also, the exhaust system must be of a type designed for use with the engine and
page 35 cannot have any unnatural restrictions within it.
page 36
page 37
Section 2:
page 38
page 39
Rough Tuning
page 40
page 41
1. If, after checking the items mentioned in Section 1, Paragraph 2 of this chapter, you
page 42
are reasonably sure that the problem is one of carburetion, you must determine
page 43 whether the mixture proportions are too rich or too lean, and if this condition is present
page 44 at one, several, or all throttle openings.
page 45
page 46 2. Run the motorcycle until the engine has warmed to operating temperature. On level
page 47 ground or a slight uphill grade, with the machine in 2nd or 3rd gear, run the engine up
page 48 to peak RPM by turning the twistgrip slowly, but smoothly, to full throttle. Then,
page 49 slowly back the throttle off until it is fully closed. While you are doing this, listen
page 50 carefully to the sounds made by the engine and exhaust.
page 51
page 52 3. If the engine makes a pinging or rattling sound, the mixture is too lean. If the engine
page 53 dies or loses RPM while you are opening the
page 54
page 55
Page 110
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
throttle, the mixture is very lean. If any of these symptoms occur, remember at what
OSSA throttle opening(s) they do so.
Works
manual 4. If the exhaust makes sounds like that of a four stroke engine, in which it only fires
by: Paul Dean every other revolution, and the engine accelerates poorly, the mixture is too rich. If the
webified exhaust emits excessive smoke, and the fuel-oil ratio is correct, the mixture is too rich.
by: Bruce If any of these symptoms occur, remember at what throttle opening(s) they do so.
Langdon
Index 1 5. A convenient way to find at what throttle position you are riding is to wrap a piece
Index 2 of white or light colored tape approximately 1" wide around the throttle twistgrip right
page 1 next to the throttle housing. Using the seam between the two halves of the housing as a
page 2 reference, measure and mark the tape with lines designating 0, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and
full throttle. (Fig. 140) For ease of reading, you may want to use a different color line
page 3
for each throttle opening. This way, you will only need to take your eyes off the road
page 4
for a minimum time. Then, while riding, you can turn the throttle until the engine runs
page 5
erratically, and simply glance down at the throttle to tell how far it is open.
page 6
page 7 6, ENGINE RUNS LEAN AT ALL THROTTLE OPENINGS. If the engine showed
page 8 lean symptoms at all throttle openings, and assuming that all things mentioned in
page 9 Section 1, Paragraph 2 of this chapter are in proper working order, the float bowl
page 10 should be removed and the float checked for proper operation.
page 11
page 12 7. The float needle should be free to move up and down inside the float metering jet,
page 13 and the float itself should pivot freely on the pin.
page 14
page 15 If all this is working properly, check the float level. You can do this by holding the
page 16 float bowl assembly in your hand with the float facing you and the tickler button
page 17 pointed directly downward. At approximately the 1:00 o'clock position, there is a
page 18
small rib cast into the inside edge of the float bowl. Using the smooth end of a 1/4"
drill bit or a piece of 1/4" rod, pass the rod between the small rib and the body of the
page 19
float. With the float bowl still upside down and the float resting on the needle, the rod
page 20
should pass between the rib and the float, touching both, but without moving the float.
page 21 (Fig. 141)
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60 FIG. 140
page 61
page 62
page 63 Page 111
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11 FIG. 141
page 12
page 13 8. The float actuates the needle with a small tab that is part of the float pivot hinge. If
page 14 the float needs adjustment, bend the is tab accordingly, then using the same method as
page 15 before, re-check the float level. Continue this procedure until the proper float height is
attained.
page 16
page 17
9. NOTE: The 24 and 27 mm IRZ carburetors used on the 1971-72 Plonker
page 18
incorporate a different float mechanism that is not normally adjustable. It uses a
page 19
concentric type float bowl and float with the jets protruding into the center of the bowl.
page 20 The plastic float should normally not require any adjustment. If the float should leak or
page 21 break, it will require replacement.
page 22
page 23 If a lean condition is present at all throttle openings on the 24 and 27 mm IRZ
page 24 carburetor, and all things in Sec 1 Paragraph 2 of this chapter are in proper working
page 25 order, the float mechanism should be checked to insure that the float and the float
page 26 needle are clean and operate freely and properly. If any trouble is suspected in either
page 27 the float or the float needle assembly, replace them.
page 28
page 29 10. ENGINE RUNS RICH AT ALL THROTTLE OPENINGS. If the engine shows
rich symptoms at all throttle openings, and all things mentioned in Sec 1, Paragraph 2
OSSA works manual
page 30 of this chapter are in proper order, check the float and float mechanism and set the
page 31 float as described in Sec 2, Paragraphs 7, 8 and 9 of this chapter.
page 32
page 33 11. Check the float needle and float metering jet for dirt or grit. Any foreign material
page 34 in this area can interfere with the correct seating of the float needle, thereby allowing
page 35 fuel to enter the float bowl after the float has reached the proper level.
page 36
page 37 Also, it is essential that the float itself be airtight, otherwise fuel can enter it, making it
heavier, consequently raising the fuel level excessively. Both of these problems will
page 38
usually result in the fuel level becoming high enough to spill over outside the
page 39
carburetor and also allow raw fuel to enter and flood the engine.
page 40
page 41
12. ENGINE RUNS LEAN AT ONE OR SEVERAL THROTTLE POSITIONS. If the
page 42 engine shows lean symptoms at one or more throttle openings, but not all of them,
page 43 refer to the part of Chapter 1 that pertains to the carburetor you are tuning.
page 44
page 45 For instance, if your 1972 250 Pioneer gives symptoms of being lean at 3/4 to full
page 46 throttle ' you will need to refer first to Chapter ' 1, Section 1. This tells you that
page 47 Sections 2 through 7 cover the operation of the 29 mm carburetor as fitted to the 1972
page 48 250 Pioneer. Then move to Section 6 of the same chapter, which covers the 3/4 to full
page 49 throttle operation of that carburetor. Read
page 50
page 51
Page 112
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
that section, and it tells you how to vary the mixture from 3/4 to full throttle.
OSSA
Works 13. ENGINE RUNS RICH AT ONE OR SEVERAL THROTTLE OPENINGS. If the
manual engine shows symptoms of being rich at one or more throttle openings, but not all of
by: Paul Dean them, refer to the part of Chapter 1 that pertains to the carburetor you are dealing with.
webified Then, read the section(s) that describe the particular throttle opening(s) that are
by: Bruce troublesome. These sections tell you how to vary the mixture at each individual
Langdon throttle openings.
Index 1
Index 2 14. NOTE: When tuning more than one metering system of the carburetor, always start
page 1 with the smallest throttle opening and finish with the largest opening. This is
page 2 recommended because, as stated earlier, all metering systems have an effect on the
ones following it.
page 3
page 4
As an example, suppose you had a 24 mm I R Z carburetor that was lean at 1/4 to 3/4
page 5
throttle and also lean at 3/4 to full throttle. If you changed the main jet first to a larger
page 6
one to make the 3/4 to full throttle operation richer, and then changed the needle
page 7 position to make the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle mixture richer, you possibly would find that the
page 8 3/4 to full throttle mixture was now slightly too rich, due to the needle being raised. It
page 9 would now be necessary to change the main jet back to one slightly smaller in order to
page 10 attain the proper mixture proportions. If the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle mixture had been altered
page 11 first, then the 3/4 to full throttle mixture would have only needed to be changed once.
page 12
page 13
page 14 Section 3:
page 15
page 16 Fine Tuning
page 17
page 18 1. The rough tuning section of this manual instructs you on how to achieve carburetion
page 19 that is not excessively rich nor excessively lean. The fine tuning section will
demonstrate how to attain carburetion that results in the best overall performance and
page 20
engine life.
page 21
page 22
2. To learn whether or not the carburetion is exactly right, you will need to take a
page 23
series of spark plug readings or checks at 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle.
page 24
page 25 3. To take a spark plug reading, ride the machine at least 1/4 mile at the throttle
page 26 opening you wish to check. If the bike has an ignition switch, reach down and turn it
page 27 off and immediately disengage the clutch. The important thing to remember is that the
page 28 fewer number of times the engine turns after the ignition is shut off, the truer the plug
page 29 reading will be. Therefore, the quicker you can pull the clutch after turning off the

OSSA works manual
page 30 ignition, the clearer the reading. All this must be done while holding the throttle at the
page 31 position you wish to check ' otherwise the reading is meaningless. Coast to a stop and
page 32 remove the spark plug to check its color.
page 33
page 34 4. If the machine has no ignition switch, as in the case of the Stiletto, the idle speed
page 35 screw must be set so that the engine will not idle. Then, while riding at the throttle
page 36
position you wish to check, simultaneously pull in the clutch and turn off the throttle,
which will allow the engine to stop running. Coast the machine to a stop and remove
page 37
the spark plug to take the reading.
page 38
page 39
page 40 Page 113
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
NOTE: If the motorcycle is fitted with a compression release, do not use it as a means
OSSA to stop the engine. The use of it can alter the plug reading enough to allow improper
Works carburetion to go undetected.
manual
by: Paul Dean 5. When reading the spark plug, the porcelain insulator that surrounds the center
webified electrode should be malt-brown in color. If this insulator is white or a very light
by: Bruce brown, the mixture is too lean. If the insulator is black and oily, the mixture is too rich.
Langdon
Index 1 6. If the spark plug showed rich or lean symptoms on the plug check, refer to the part
Index 2 of Chapter 1 that covers the carburetor being checked and make the necessary changes
page 1 that are recommended in the section that pertains to the particular throttle opening
page 2 being checked.
page 3
page 4
7. As in the rough tuning section, better results will be obtained if the same tuning
sequence is adhered to. That is, check the lowest throttle opening first, and then
page 5
proceed to the next largest opening and so on, finishing at the largest.
page 6
page 7
8. When fine tuning a carburetor, it is sometimes recommended to do a second series
page 8 of plug readings to insure that any adjustments or changes made in the first series have
page 9 not changed the mixture proportions at other throttle openings.
page 10
page 11
page 12 Page 114
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
PART C - ELECTRICS
OSSA
Works Section 1:
manual
by: Paul Dean Operation of the Motoplat Electrics
webified
by: Bruce 1. All OSSA motorcycles are fitted with the Motoplat solid state electronic ignition
Langdon system. This system is comprised of four basic pieces.
Index 1
Index 2
(a) A rotating magnet called a magneto fly-wheel.
page 1
page 2 (b) A set of stationary coils, wires and diodes encased in epoxy resin. This is called a
page 3 magneto stator.
page 4
page 5 (c) A device similar to an ignition coil called an electrical converter.
page 6
page 7 (d) A spark plug.
page 8
page 9 2. The magneto flywheel contains permanent magnets. When these magnets pass the
page 10 low voltage coils on the magneto stator an AC current is formed in the coils.
page 11
page 12 3. The AC current formed in the low voltage coils then goes through a diode, which is
page 13 a small electrical component that, among other things, allows current to pass through it
page 14 in only one direction. Therefore, the current on the other side of the diode is DC
page 15 current.
page 16
page 17 4. This DC current flows to the electrical converter or high voltage coil on the frame
and charges a capacitor housed within the coil.
page 18
page 19
5. The capacitor is connected to a silicone controlled rectifier or Thyristor. This
page 20
Thyristor will not allow the current to discharge from the capacitor until it is triggered
page 21
by a separate voltage.
page 22
page 23 6. When it is time for the spark plug to fire, a special magnet in the flywheel passes by
page 24 a 11 pickup" coil on the stator. This generates a small current in this coil and it flows
page 25 to the Thyristor and triggers it, allowing the capacitor to discharge its current through
page 26 the primary windings of the high voltage coil. As a result, a high voltage is formed in
page 27 its secondary windings and the spark plug fires.
page 28
page 29 7. To regulate the time at which the spark plug fires, you simply rotate the magneto

OSSA works manual
page 30 stator in one direction or the other on its mounting bosses. This changes the time at
page 31 which the special magnet passes the pickup coil on the stator. See Part A, Chapter 3,
page 32 Section 6, for details on regulating the engine timing.
page 33
page 34 8. On models fitted with lights, the magneto stator is also wired to provide charging
page 35 current for the lighting system.
page 36
page 37
Section 2:
page 38
page 39
Testing the Ignition System
page 40
page 41
1. If the engine won't run, is difficult to start, or runs very poorly, and you suspect the
page 42
ignition system, remove the spark plug from the engine. Fit the plug into the spark
page 43 plug cap and ground the metal base of the plug against one of the fins on the cylinder
page 44 head, as shown in Fig. 142. Operate the kick starter and watch and listen for a healthy
page 45 spark. It should make a snapping sound. The engine should be rotated at least 500 R.P.
page 46 M. to get a good spark.
page 47
page 48 2. If you get a weak spark or no spark at all, fit a new spark plug to the spark plug cap
page 49 and check it again.
page 50
page 51
page 52 Page 115
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 142
page 13
page 14 3. If you still do not get a good spark, remove the spark plug cap, check it for
page 15 corrosion, and reinstall it, making sure it has good contact with the stranded metal wire
page 16 in the center of the plug wire. Check for spark again.
page 17
page 18 4. If you still do not get a good spark, remove the gas tank and check the high voltage
page 19 coil mounting bracket for sufficient grounding. Remove its two 10 mm nuts and bolts
and scrape any paint or rust from both the frame mounting lug and the bracket on the
page 20
coil. Use a wire brush or file if necessary. Replace the coil, using Loctite on the
page 21
threads of the 10 mm bolts. Check the connectors on the blue and black leads for
page 22 corrosion or moisture and reinstall them on their proper terminals, being sure they are
page 23 a tight fit. Again check for spark.
page 24
page 25 5. If you still do not get a good spark, and your OSSA is fitted with an ignition switch,
page 26 disconnect the blue wire on the back of the
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48 FIG. 143
page 49
switch and support the end of it so it cannot touch any metal surfaces. Again try for
page 50
spark. If you now get an acceptable spark, replace the ignition switch.
page 51
page 52
6. If you still do not get a good spark, several tests will need to be made with an
page 53
ohmmeter.
page 54
page 55 7. First, disconnect the black and blue leads from the high voltage coil. Put one lead of
page 56 the ohmmeter on one of the terminals of the coil and the other lead on the other
page 57 terminal. (Fig. 143) Read the meter. Now reverse the leads. If either test showed lower
page 58 than 16 ohms or more than 38 ohms, replace the coil.
page 59
page 60 8. Clip one of the leads of the ohmmeter to the blue wire coming from the magneto
page 61 stator and the other lead to the black wire. (Fig. 144) Read the meter; then reverse the
page 62 leads of the ohmmeter. On the Stiletto, TT and DMR, the reading in either direction
page 63 should be no
page 64
page 65
Page 116
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19 FIG. 144
page 20
page 21 less than 9 nor more than 12 ohms. On Pioneer and Plonker models, the reading in
page 22 either direction should be no less than 17 nor more than 20 ohms.
page 23
page 24 9. Next, clip one lead of the ohmmeter to the blue wire and touch the other lead to
page 25 ground. Read the meter; then do the same with the black wire. Both wires should read
page 26 from 235 to 280 ohms.
page 27
page 28 10. If any tests of the magneto stator wires showed a reading not within these
page 29 tolerances, remove the flywheel and stator. Inspect the wires coming from the stator
for breaks or places where the case or flywheel may have rubbed through the
OSSA works manual
page 30 insulation. Check the mounting areas of the stator for corrosion that would prevent its
page 31 proper grounding to the case. If the wires are not damaged, replace the magneto
page 32 assembly.
page 33
page 34 11. Care should be taken when handling the magneto flywheel to avoid dropping it or
page 35 striking it sharply with a solid object, either of which could cause its permanent
page 36
magnets to lose some of their magnetism. To check the magnets, lay the blade of a
screwdriver across the surface of each magnet and then lift the screwdriver up and
page 37
away from it. On the Pioneer and Plonker all six magnets should feel equally strong.
page 38
On the Stiletto, TT and DMR, five of them will feel equally strong and one of them
page 39 will be considerably stronger. If the flywheel fails this test, replace the magneto
page 40 assembly.
page 41
page 42 12. Further checking of the ignition components requires specialized. equipment such
page 43 as an oscilloscope. For this reason, if the ignition still fails to produce sufficient spark,
page 44 the best practical method for repair is to first substitute a new coil for the one on the
page 45 machine. If the spark is then sufficient, you will, of course, know that the old coil is no
page 46 good. If you still get no spark or weak spark, reinstall the old coil and repeat this
page 47 process of substitution with the magneto.
page 48
page 49 13. STROBE TIMING. If the motorcycle runs, but it lacks power and gives erratic
page 50
spark plug readings, it is possible that the magneto is producing sufficient spark, but is
doing so at the wrong time, even though the magneto has been timed properly with the
page 51
timing pin and dial indicator. This can easily be checked stroboscopically with an
page 52
automobile type timing light.
page 53
page 54
page 55 Page 117
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
14. First, set the timing as described in Part A, Chapter 3, Section 6". When you are
OSSA finished, before removing the timing pin, make a line across the top of the flywheel
Works with a piece of chalk or other suitable marking device and put a corresponding mark
manual across from it on the engine case, as shown in Fig. 145. Removing the timing pin.
by: Paul Dean
webified 15. Connect the timing light to the plug wire, and if it is the type that needs an external
by: Bruce source of power, provide that source (battery, wall outlet, etc.) according to its need.
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22 FIG. 145
page 23
page 24 16. Start the engine and let it idle. Aim the timing light at the flywheel, as shown in
Fig. 146, and watch the marks. The mark on the flywheel will be slightly to the right of
page 25
the mark on the case. Accelerate the engine to approximately 6000 R.P.M. At that
page 26
point the timing will have fully advanced and the mark on the flywheel and the mark
page 27 on the case should appear to be aligned.
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49 FIG. 146
page 50
page 51 17. If the marks did not align, turn off the engine and adjust the timing by removing
the flywheel and rotating the stator. If the mark on the flywheel was to the right of the
page 52
mark on the case, turn the stator counterclockwise an equivalent amount. If the mark
page 53
on the flywheel was to the left of the mark on the case, turn the stator clockwise an
page 54
equivalent amount. Reinstall the flywheel and check the timing again with the light.
page 55
page 56 18. If the mark on the flywheel was erratic and seemed to fire almost anywhere, or
page 57 jump around quite a bit, replace the magneto.
page 58
page 59
page 60 Section 3:
page 61
page 62 How the Charging System Works
page 63
page 64 1. The OSSA Pioneer is equipped with a battery operated lighting system. The battery
page 65 is recharged by current generated in separate
page 66
page 67
page 68
Page 118
page 69

OSSA works manual
windings located in the magneto stator. The system is a very simple one to understand.
OSSA
Works 2. When the engine is running, AC current is generated in the magneto stator.
manual However, before the current leaves the stator, it is rectified to DC by the use of two
by: Paul Dean diodes built into the stator base.
webified
by: Bruce 3. The DC current then flows from the stator along a single red colored wire to a
Langdon junction under the seat of the motorcycle. There it connects to a purple wire which is,
Index 1 in turn, connected to a 15 ohm resistor housed in a black case mounted beneath the
Index 2 seat.
page 1
page 2 4. When the lights are off, the charging current must flow through the resistor before
page 3 going to the battery, therefore charging it at a reduced rate. This is necessary because
page 4
the only time current is drawn from the battery when the lights are off is when the
brakes are applied and the brake light comes on, or when the horn is operated. If the
page 5
battery were allowed to receive a full rate of charge when the lights were not in use, it
page 6
probably would result in destruction of the battery due to overheating.
page 7
page 8 5. The resistor is connected to the headlight on and off switch by means of two wires,
page 9 one from each terminal of the resistor. When the lights are turned on, these two wires
page 10 are connected together which bypasses the resistor. Then the full amount of charging
page 11 current can flow to the battery. The battery can now handle this charge because the
page 12 lights are drawing considerable current from it.
page 13
page 14
page 15 Section 4:
page 16
page 17 Checking the Charging Circuit
page 18
page 19 1. The first step in trouble shooting any charging system malfunction is to check all the
page 20 connections to be sure that they are tight and that the correct wires are connected to
page 21
one another.
page 22
2. If the battery does not seem to be charging properly, remove it and charge it for
page 23
several hours on a battery charger that will allow 1 amp or less to flow into the battery.
page 24
If it holds the charge, reinstall it in the motorcycle. If it does not, replace it, and in
page 25 either case, check the fuse. It should be a 20 amp fuse.
page 26
page 27 3. Locate the group of three wires that run up the frame tube from the magneto. There
page 28 will be one black wire, one blue wire, and one red wire coming from a black plastic
page 29 tube. Follow the red wire until it connects to a purple wire. Slide back one of the

OSSA works manual
page 30 insulators to expose the connector. Unplug the connection.

page 31
page 32 4. Clip one lead of an ohmmeter to the red wire and touch the other wire to ground.
page 33 Read the meter; then reverse the leads. In one direction the meter should read infinity.
page 34 In the other direction it should have a reading of from 12 to 15 ohms. (Fig. 147) If it
page 35 does not, check the red wire all the way down to the point where it enters the epoxy on
page 36
the magneto stator. If the wire has no breaks or cuts, replace the magneto assembly.
page 37
5. Clip the positive lead of a DC voltmeter to the end of the red wire and clip the
page 38
negative lead of the voltmeter to any good ground. Start the engine and accelerate it to
page 39
page 40
page 41 Page 119
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20 FIG. 147
page 21
page 22 approximately 6000 R.P.M. The DC voltmeter should read -approximately 30 to 34
page 23 DC volts at that engine speed. (Fig. 148) If it does not, check the red wire for breaks or
page 24 places where the insulation may have rubbed through. Check it all the way down to
page 25 where it enters the epoxy on the magneto stator. If the red wire is not defective, replace
page 26 the magneto.
page 27
page 28 6. Connect the red wire and the purple wire back together, but leave the DC voltmeter
page 29 lead attached to the connector. Again accelerate the engine to 6000 R.P.M. with the
light switch in the "off" position. The meter should read 30 to 32 DC volts. (Fig. 149)
OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31 7. Turn the lights on. At 6000 R.P.M. the
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61 FIG. 148
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89 FIG. 149
page 90
page 91 Page 120
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 150
page 13
page 14 meter should read 7 to 9 DC volts.
page 15
page 16 8. If the readings were not within these tolerances, the individual components of the
page 17 lighting system will need to be checked.
page 18
page 19 9. Resistor. Remove both wires from the terminals of the resistor. Place one lead of an
page 20 ohmmeter on one of the terminals; the other lead on the other terminal. The meter
page 21 should read 14.5 to 15.5 ohms. If it does not, replace the resistor. Remove one of the
page 22 ohmmeter leads from either resistor terminal and place it on either of the mounting
page 23 nuts, leaving the other end on the other terminal. If you get any reading whatsoever
page 24 besides infinity, replace the resistor.
page 25
page 26 10. Headlight control switch. With the two connectors still removed from the resistor,
clip one of the ohmmeter leads to one of these connectors and clip the other lead to the
page 27
other connector. Remove the fuse from the fuse holder. Turn the headlight on-off
page 28
switch to "off." The meter should give no reading at all, or infinity. (Fig. 150) Turn the
page 29 headlight switch on and the meter needle should move to zero. If the switch does not

OSSA works manual
page 30 pass these checks, disassemble and examine it closely for dirt, corrosion, or damage.
page 31 When the switch is in the "on" position, the metal bar that connects terminal No. 3 and
page 32 terminal No. 8 bridges the two terminals. When the switch is turned off, the switch
page 33 arm pushes the bar upward, breaking contact. Figs. 151 and 152 illustrate this. Replace
page 34 the switch if it cannot be made to function properly. Put the fuse back into the fuse
holder.
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51 FIG. 151
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67 FIG. 152
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
11. Ignition Switch. There is no voltage regulator in this system. The battery acts as a
OSSA voltage stabilizer. Because the battery is wired to the circuit in parallel, it need not be
Works in the system in order for the lights to work. However, when the battery is removed,
manual the lights work directly off the generator. Because the generator voltage is proportional
to the engine R.P.M. it is possible for the light bulbs to blow out at high engine speed.
by: Paul Dean
The battery ground wire is connected to a black wire that runs up to the ignition
webified
by: Bruce switch. When the ignition switch is turned on, the battery is grounded. When the
Langdon ignition switch is turned off, the battery is not grounded. If the ignition switch is
Index 1 turned on, and for any reason the switch is faulty and the battery is not grounded, the
battery will not receive a charge. Also, because the battery is not in the circuit when it
Index 2
is not grounded, light bulbs may blow out due to the excessive current generated. To
page 1
check the ignition switch, disconnect the ground wire of the battery from the black
page 2
wire it is plugged into and remove the fuse from its holder. Clip one lead of the
page 3 ohmmeter to the black wire and clip the other lead to ground. With the ignition switch
page 4 in the "off" position the meter should read infinity. When you turn the ignition switch
page 5 on, the meter should read zero. (Fig. 153) If the switch fails this test, check the wires
page 6 on the back of the switch to be sure that it is wired correctly. If the wires are correctly
page 7 installed, replace the ignition switch. Plug the ground wire of the battery back into the
page 8 black wire and reinstall the fuse.
page 9
page 10 12. There always exists the remote possibility that one of the electrical components
page 11 (horn, taillight, etc.) has an internal short and is putting an excessive load on the
page 12 electrical system.
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 FIG. 153
page 59
page 60
13. To check this, disconnect the positive wire of the battery at the connector located
between the fuse and the battery. The battery must have at least six volts to conduct
page 61
this test. You will also need a DC ammeter. Clip the red, or positive lead of the
page 62
ammeter to the end of the wire that has the fuse on it. Clip the negative lead of the
page 63 ammeter to the end of the wire that goes to the battery. (Fig. 154) Turn the ignition
page 64 switch on, but do not start the engine. Leave the light switch in the "off" position.
page 65 Because there are no electrical components in use the ammeter should read zero. If it
page 66 does not, there is a short somewhere in the electrical system.
page 67
page 68
page 69 Page 122

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19 FIG. 154
page 20
page 21 14. Push on the rear brake pedal until the brake light comes on. The ammeter should
page 22 read approximately 3 amps. Release the rear brake and apply the front brake until the
page 23 light comes on. The ammeter should again read approximately 3 amps.
page 24
page 25 15. Release the front brake and blow the horn. The ammeter should read
page 26 approximately 3 amps.
page 27
page 28 16. Turn on the lights. Either headlight beam should draw approximately 5 amps and
page 29 the taillight approximately 1 amp. If they are both on together, the meter should read
approximately 6 amps.
OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31 17. If the operation of any component showed an excessive reading on the ammeter,
page 32 then it is causing an undue load on the electrical system. Replace that component with
page 33 a new one and recheck with the ammeter.
page 34
page 35 18. Electrical shorts can be easily traced using an ammeter. Simply disconnect each
page 36 component, wire by wire, while watching the needle of the ammeter. When the needle
page 37 drops to a normal position, you know that something connected to the last wire you
page 38 unplugged is at fault.
page 39
19. If you have installed, or plan to install some additional electrical equipment on
page 40
your motorcycle and you wish to know how much current it should draw, this can be
page 41
done easily if you know the wattage that it requires. Most electrical components have
page 42
the wattage stamped or printed on them, or it is included with their instructions.
page 43 Simply divide the wattage by the voltage, and that is the amperage that it should draw.
page 44 For example, the headlight bulb on the OSSA is marked 30/3OW. That means that the
page 45 high and the low beams both draw 30 watts. Being a 6 volt system, divide the wattage
page 46 by the voltage, 30 divided by 6 is 5, or the number of amperes that the light will draw.
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50 Page 123
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

Page124A1
http://hem.spray.se/manyb/Page124.htm27/07/2009 12:41:05 p.m.

OSSA works manual
PART D - FRONT SUSPENSION & STEERING

OSSA
Works
CHAPTER 1:
manual
by: Paul Dean
CHANGING THE OIL
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon 1. With a large screwdriver, remove the drain screw and its fiber gasket washer from
Index 1 the bottom rear of each fork leg.
Index 2
page 1 2. Straddle the machine and apply the front brake. Push downward on the handlebars,
page 2
forcing the forks to compress as much as possible. Pull back on the bars, returning the
forks to their normal position. Repeat this pumping action several times until all the oil
page 3
is expelled from both forks.
page 4
page 5
3. Check the condition of the fiber gasket washers. If either of them is damaged or
page 6 distorted, replace it. Thread the drain screws back into the fork legs, being careful not
page 7 to over tighten them.
page 8
page 9 4. Prop the motorcycle so that the front wheel is off the ground. With a 6 point 25 mm
page 10 socket remove the stanchion nuts from the top of the fork tubes. (Fig. 155)
page 11
page 12 NOTE: If the front wheel is not off the ground, remove only one stanchion nut at a
page 13 time. If they both are removed, the front of the cycle will drop all the way down as
page 14 there will be nothing to hold the springs in place.
page 15
page 16 5. Pour 190 to 200 cc's of Full Bore SAE 80 racing gearbox oil, or SAE 30 wt. motor
page 17 oil into each fork.
page 18
page 19 NOTE: The above oils are for temperatures ranging from +300 F to +900 F. The
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 FIG. 155
page 58
page 59 dampening of the forks will be noticeably affected above or below these temperatures.
page 60 The proper dampening characteristics within these temperatures can also be dictated
page 61 by track or riding conditions. For these reasons a heavier or lighter grade oil may be
page 62 used to suit temperature or riding requirements.
page 63
page 64 6. On the bottom of each stanchion plug there is a 12 mm nut which houses a check
page 65 ball and retains a check ball spring. Remove the nut, being careful not to lose the small
page 66
ball which seats in the inside of the nut. Remove
page 67
page 68
Page 125
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19 FIG. 156
page 20
page 21 the spring from inside the stanchion plug. (Fig. 156)
page 22
page 23 7. Carefully clean each ball, spring, 12 mm nut and stanchion nut and blow them dry
page 24 with compressed air. Reassemble the components back into the stanchion nuts. Inspect
page 25 the condition of the "0" rings on the stanchion nuts and if they are cut, nicked, or
page 26 damaged in any way, replace them.
page 27
page 28 8. Thread the stanchion nuts back into the fork tubes as far as you can by hand. Do not
page 29 use a wrench on these nuts until they are screwed in two or three turns; otherwise the
threads may become stripped. With the 25 mm socket and torque wrench, tighten the
OSSA works manual
page 30 stanchion nuts to 50 ft. lbs. torque.

page 31
page 32 9. Place the cycle with both wheels on the ground and pump the forks up and down. If
page 33 oil comes out of the hole in each stanchion nut, or if you can hear air leaking in and
page 34 out of the holes, prop the machine with the front wheel off the ground and remove the
page 35 stanchion nut that was leaking.
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63 FIG. 157
page 64
page 65 10. Remove the 12 mm check ball nut from the bottom of the stanchion plug and again
page 66 clean the check ball and the nut.
page 67
page 68 11. Place the nut on a bench top with its hex head flat on the bench and the threaded
page 69 end pointed upward. Place the ball in position on the recessed ball seat as shown in

OSSA works manual
12. Locate a brass, aluminum or copper punch and place it on the ball. Tap the punch
OSSA lightly several times to reseat the ball.
Works
manual 13. Install the components back into the stanchion nut, thread the nut back into the
by: Paul Dean fork tube and torque it to 50 ft. lbs.
webified
by: Bruce 14. Pump the forks up and down again. If air or oil is still seeping in and out, remove
Langdon the stanchion nut again and replace the check ball, check ball spring and check ball
Index 1 nut.
Index 2
page 1
page 2 Page 127
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
CHAPTER 2:
OSSA
Works REPAIR OF THE FORKS AND STEERING
manual
by: Paul Dean Section 1:
webified
by: Bruce Removal of the Forks and Steering
Langdon
Index 1
Components
Index 2
page 1
1. Drain the fork oil as described in Paragraphs 1, 2, and 3 of Section 1. Prop the
page 2 motorcycle so that the front wheel is off the ground. Turn the brake cable adjuster on
page 3 the front brake lever to give the cable its maximum amount of free play. Remove the
page 4 cable nipple from the brake arm on the front wheel, then pull the cable up out of the
page 5 cable stop.
page 6
page 7 2. Remove the two 10 mm nuts and bolts that secure the brake anchor strap to the left
page 8 fork leg. Loosen and remove the 22 mm axle nut and lock washer. Loosen and remove
page 9 the 13 mm axle pinch bolt and nut from each fork leg. (Fig. 158)
page 10
page 11 3. Grasp the axle by the T handle on one end and while twisting it back and forth, draw
page 12 it out of the forks and wheel. Remove the front wheel. On Pioneer and Plonker models
page 13
disconnect the speedometer drive unit from the cable and remove the unit.
page 14
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the complete fork tube assemblies from the
page 15
machine to service them. The oil seals, fork slider legs, and damper assemblies can be
page 16
removed from the fork tube while the tube is still in place on the motorcycle.
page 17 However, the procedures given here outline the removal of the entire fork leg units and
page 18 their disassembly once so removed. If it is not necessary for you
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56 FIG. 158
page 57
page 58 to remove the entire unit, disregard that part of this section and follow the instructions
page 59 that deal with disassembly of the fork after it has been taken off the machine.
page 60
page 61 4. Stiletto and TT Models. Remove the front number plate by removing the elastic
page 62 rubber band securing it and snapping the plate off the fork tubes.
page 63
page 64 Pioneer and Plonker Models. Loosen the bolts that secure the headlight brackets to the
page 65 fork tube. On Pioneers only, remove the speedometer and bracket by loosening and
page 66 removing the 25 mm stanchion nut which secures the bracket on the top of the right
page 67 fork tube. After removing the bracket, thread the stanchion nut back into the tube three
page 68
or four turns by hand.
page 69

OSSA works manual
5. Plonker Models. Remove the 10 mm bolts securing the front fender and
OSSA speedometer unit to the fork legs.
Works
manual 6. Loosen, but do not remove the 25 mm stanchion nuts. There are eight Allen bolts
by: Paul Dean that clamp the fork tubes firmly into the yokes. Using a 6 mm Allen wrench, loosen all
webified eight of these bolts two or three turns each. (Fig. 159)
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25 FIG. 159
page 26
page 27 7. Grasp one of the fork legs by the tube below the bottom yoke and while twisting it
page 28 back and forth, pull it down and out of the yokes. (Fig. 160) It may take a light tap on
page 29 the stanchion nut with a rawhide or plastic mallet to start the tube moving. Repeat with
the other fork tube.
OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 FIG. 160
page 59
page 60 8. Remove the handlebars by loosening and removing the four Allen screws on the
page 61 handlebar clamps with a 6 mm Allen wrench. You may either allow the cables to
page 62 remain attached to the handlebars and swing them out of the way or you can remove
page 63 the controls and switches from them and take them off the machine entirely.
page 64
page 65 9. Remove the fuel tank breather tube from the center of the steering stem. Loosen and
page 66 remove the 27 mm nut on the top of the upper fork yoke. (A 1-1/16" American socket
will suffice.) Loosen the 8 mm Allen pinch bolt on the top fork yoke. With a rawhide
page 67
or
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
plastic mallet, gently tap the upper fork yoke up and off the steering stem. (Fig. 161 )
OSSA
Works 10. Remove the four 10 mm bolts and nuts securing the front fender. On Pioneer
manual models they also fasten the horn and ignition switch brackets.
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
FIG. 161
page 21
page 22
11. Loosen the steering shaft collar nut. (Fig. 162) This can usually be turned by gently
page 23
tapping it counterclockwise with a blunt end punch and mallet.
page 24
page 25
12. Remove the collar nut and lift it and the metal dust shield beneath it off the
page 26 steering shaft. There is also a felt washer on the underside of the dust shield.
page 27
page 28 13. Tap the top of the steering shaft gently with a soft faced mallet to start it moving
page 29 down through the bearings. Grasp the lower yoke and pull it down and out of the

OSSA works manual
page 30 steering head.

page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58 FIG. 162
page 59
page 60 14. The inner race, cage and rollers of the upper steering bearing will remain in place.
page 61 Just lift them off and put them aside.
page 62
page 63 15. The inner race, cage and rollers of the lower steering bearing will remain on the
page 64 steering shaft of the bottom yoke. If you need to replace this bearing, put the bottom
page 65 yoke upside down in a vise and tap the bearing off, using a large punch or drift pin.
page 66 Just hammer alternately, first on one side of the dust shield and then the other, until the
page 67 inner race is driven off the steering shaft. (Fig. 163)
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19 FIG. 163
page 20
page 21 NOTE: The removal of this bearing requires replacement of the entire bearing and dust
page 22 shield, due to the manner in which it is removed.
page 23
page 24 16. To remove either outer steering race, insert a long drift into the steering head from
page 25 the end opposite the race you wish to remove. Move the drift around the lip of the
page 26 race, tapping it gently in several places until it is out of the steering head (Fig. 164)
page 27
page 28 NOTE: Be sure that the outer steering race is driven out of the steering head straight. If
page 29
it cocks slightly sideways, it could cause distortion of the steering head.

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 FIG. 164
page 58
page 59
page 60 Page 131
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
Section 2:
OSSA
Works Disassembly of the Forks
manual
by: Paul Dean 1. Using a 6 mm Alien wrench, remove the Alien bolt from the bottom of the fork leg.
webified This bolt is located in a recessed hole drilled in the very bottom of the leg.
by: Bruce
Langdon NOTE: This Allen bolt is threaded into an aluminum pedestal on the damper assembly
Index 1 inside the fork. Sometimes the pedestal will turn with the bolt, keeping it from being
Index 2 removed. If this happens, locate a 6 mm screw or bolt that has 6 mm x 1 threads and is
page 1 threaded a distance of more than 3/4". Grind the end of it to a point as shown in Fig.
page 2 165. Then screw it into the fork oil drain hole until you feel it touch the pedestal. Turn
page 3 the screw 1/2 turn further. The pedestal will now be locked in place and the Allen
page 4 screw can be removed. (Fig. 166) After removing the Allen screw, remove the pointed
page 5 bolt from the drain hole.
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25 FIG. 165
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 FIG. 166
page 58
page 59 2. Grasp the slider leg in one hand, the fork tube in the other. Separate the two with a
page 60 sharp pull.
page 61
page 62 3. To remove the oil seals, first remove their snap ring retainers with a pair of internal
page 63 snap ring pliers. Pry both the seals loose with a large screwdriver and remove them
page 64
from the slider leg. When prying the seals loose, be careful not to gouge or damage the
slider leg with the screwdriver.
page 65
page 66
4. Remove the 25 mm stanchion nut from the fork tube. Remove the fork spring and
page 67
measure it.
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
The Pioneer fork springs should measure 17.36" - 17.48".

OSSA
Works The Stiletto fork springs should measure 17.59" - 17.71".
manual
by: Paul Dean The Plonker front fork springs should measure 17.0 - 17.12".
webified
by: Bruce 5. Slide the rubber dust shield off the fork and closely inspect it. (Fig. 167) If it is
Langdon worn, cracked, or cut, or if it had been allowing dirt to enter the area above the oil
Index 1 seals, discard the shield and replace it with a new one.
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
FIG. 167
page 22
page 23
Measure the free length of the rebound spring. It should be no less than 1.0". If it
page 24
measures less than this, replace it. (Fig. 168)
page 25
page 26 8. The damper valve disc is the large, washer type disc that has eight holes drilled
page 27 through it. On its underside there is a thin spring wave washer pinned to a lip on the
page 28 disc. (Fig. 169) Check this washer for cracks or looseness on
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
FIG. 168
page 49
page 50
6. To remove the damper assembly from the center of the fork tube, use a pair of
page 51 internal snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the bottom of the tube. Then pull
page 52 downward on the damper assembly to extract it from the tube.
page 53
page 54 7. There are two items on the damper assembly that should be checked carefully: the
page 55 rebound spring and the damper valve disc.
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
FIG. 169
page 85
page 86
page 87 Page 133
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
the disc. It should be bent away from the disc in only two places, 1800 across from
OSSA each other, and held in place by two stake marks on the lip of the disc. If this valve
Works disc shows any sign of fatigue or damage, replace it, as this could seriously affect the
manual dampening characteristics of the forks.
by: Paul Dean
webified 9. To disassemble the damper assembly, you must first remove the aluminum pedestal
by: Bruce from the damper shaft. To do this, locate one of the axle pinch bolts that secures the
Langdon axle in the fork slider leg. Remove the nut and washers from the bolt and then thread it
Index 1 into the base of the pedestal as far as it will go.
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
FIG. 170
page 28
page 29
10. Place the whole damper assembly back into the bottom of the fork tube but do not

OSSA works manual
page 30 install the snap ring. Hold the tube upside down and tap the head of the bolt with a
page 31 mallet until the damper shaft is driven off the pedestal. (Fig. 170)
page 32
page 33 11. Remove the damper assembly from the fork tube and remove the bolt from the
page 34 damper shaft. All the damper components can now be slid off the shaft with the
page 35 exception of the damper piston located at the top of the shaft. To remove it, simply
page 36
take off the snap ring that retains the piston and slide it down off the shaft.
page 37
page 38 Page 134
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
Section 3:
OSSA
Works Reassembly of the Steering Components
manual
by: Paul Dean 1. Thoroughly clean the steering head on the frame. If you are reusing the steering
webified bearings, clean them thoroughly and blow them dry with compressed air. Check the
by: Bruce bearing surfaces very closely. If there are any signs of wear on the races or rollers,
Langdon replace the bearing.
Index 1
Index 2 2. Install the outer steering races into the steering head by tapping them gently into
page 1 place with a brass or copper faced mallet. (Fig. 171) Be careful to drive the races in
page 2 straight; otherwise, if they become canted they could distort the steering head.
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 FIG. 171

page 31
page 32 3. If you had removed the inner race of the lower steering bearing, you must now
page 33 replace it. First, install a new dust shield down over the steering shaft. Saturate the felt
page 34 washer with bearing grease and put it into position on the dust cover.
page 35
page 36 4. Thoroughly pack the steering bearing rollers with bearing grease. Set the bearing
page 37 down over the shaft and push it as far as it will go with your fingers. Locate a length of
pipe that is larger than the steering shaft and has an inside diameter just slightly larger
page 38
than the outside diameter of the shaft. Slip the pipe down over the shaft until it
page 39
contacts the inner race of the bearing. Then tap the end of the pipe with a mallet until
page 40 the bearing is fully seated on the bottom yoke. (Fig. 172)
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69 FIG. 172

OSSA works manual
5. Thoroughly clean the upper bearing dust shield and felt washer and pack the washer
OSSA with bearing grease.
Works
manual 6. Slide the steering shaft up into the steering head from the bottom.
by: Paul Dean
webified 7. Place the felt washer and dust cover over the end of the steering shaft and then
by: Bruce thread the steering shaft collar nut onto the shaft, turning it all the way down by hand.
Langdon
Index 1 8. With a mallet and punch, tighten the collar 1/8 of a turn by slightly driving the
Index 2 punch against the edge of one of the notches on the nut (Fig. 173) With a plastic or
page 1 rawhide mallet, sharply tap the center of the bottom yoke upward and tap the top of the
page 2 steering
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 FIG. 173

page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59 FIG. 174
page 60
page 61 shaft downward. Then swing the bottom yoke back and forth. If it feels too tight,
page 62 loosen the collar nut until it turns free. If it feels loose, tighten the nut another 1/8 turn,
page 63 tap both ends of the steering shaft, and check again for freezes of movement. Repeat
page 64 this until the desired setting is reached. It may be necessary to readjust the steering
page 65 bearings after the front end has been assembled.
page 66
page 67
9. Install the top fork yoke in place over the steering shaft and screw the 27 mm nut
down on top of it. Do not tighten the nut at this point.
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70 10. Locate the four 10 mm fender mount nuts and bolts. Clean all of their threads
page 71
page 72
page 73 Page 136
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
thoroughly. Fit the fender to the lower yoke and install all of the bolts, nuts, and
OSSA washers. There should be a thick flat washer under the head of each bolt and a flat
Works washer and lock washer beneath each nut. There is also a flat fender mount plate that
manual goes beneath the four nuts. It is a good idea to put a few drops of Loctite on the threads
of each nut before installation. Tighten all of the fender mount nuts and bolts to 6 ft.
by: Paul Dean
lbs. torque.
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon On Pioneer models the horn and ignition switch bracket must be mounted under the
Index 1 two forward fender mount bolts. (Fig. 174)
Index 2
page 1
Page 137
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
Section 4:
OSSA
Works Reassembling the Forks
manual
by: Paul Dean 1. First, the damper assembly must be reassembled. Place the damper piston on the
webified damper shaft with the recessed end of the piston facing the bottom of the shaft as
by: Bruce shown in Fig. 175. Install a new snap ring in its groove with the square edge of the
Langdon ring facing outward. See Part A, Chapter 2, Section 3, Paragraph 13, for explanation of
Index 1 proper snap ring installation.
Index 2
page 1 2. Hold the shaft upside down and drop the rebound spring down onto the piston.
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
FIG. 175
page 33
page 34 3. Install the damper valve disc next, with the crimped spring washer facing away from
page 35 the rebound spring. (Fig. 176) Next goes the aluminum valve disc washer, then place
page 36 the damper cylinder on the shaft so that the aluminum washer can fit into the recess on
page 37 one end of the cylinder.
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67 FIG. 176
page 68
page 69
4. If you have not done so, remove the rubber washer, Part No. OLI-8115-11, from the

OSSA works manual
page 70 inside of the damper pedestal. Drop a new one into place and set the pedestal upright
page 71 on a flat, hard surface. With a propane torch, warm the pedestal to 150-2000 F. (Fig.
page 72 177) At that point, insert the bottom end of the damper shaft into the pedestal, pushing
page 73 it all the way down until it is fully seated.
page 74
page 75
Page 138
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
page 96
page 97
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8 FIG. 177
page 9
page 10 5. Keep downward pressure on the assembly for several minutes, until the pedestal
page 11 cools enough to become tight on the shaft.
page 12
page 13 6. Clean the fork tube thoroughly and slide the whole damper assembly back up into it.
page 14 Install a new snap ring on the bottom end of the tube with the square edge of the snap
page 15
ring facing the bottom of the tube.
page 16
NOTE: These snap rings keep the front wheel on the forks when the front end is raised
page 17
off the ground. If the rings are put in backwards, and they pop out of their grooves, the
page 18
front wheel, with slider legs attached, could drop off the forks.
page 19
page 20
7. Thoroughly clean each slider leg with solvent and blow it dry. Apply some grease to
page 21 the outside of a new seal and set it in place with the open side of the seal facing the
page 22 bottom of the slider leg.
page 23
page 24 8. Locate a large socket that has an outside diameter slightly smaller than that of the
page 25 seal. Place a short extension in the socket and use it
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57 FIG. 178
page 58
page 59 as a drift to drive the seal into place. Tap the socket gently, using only enough force to
page 60 slowly move the seal into its mounting boss. (Fig. 178)
page 61
page 62 9. . Repeat this process with the second seal, being careful not to damage either one.
page 63 Once they are fully inserted, replace the retaining snap ring, installing it With its sharp
page 64 edge facing upward. (Fig. 179)
page 65
page 66 10. Check the condition of the "0" ring, Part No. OLI-8114-10, on the 25 mm
page 67 stanchion nut. If it is cut or damaged in any way, replace it. Slide the fork spring down
into the top of the fork tube, insert the stanchion nut, and turn it two or three turns by
page 68
hand.
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12 FIG. 179
page 13
page 14 Install a new "0" ring, Part No. OLI-8114-11, in the groove on the bottom of the
page 15 damper pedestal. (Fig. 180) Use a dab of grease to hold it in place if necessary.
page 16
page 17 12. Put a light film of oil on the oil seals and the lower half of the fork tube. Insert the
page 18 tube into the slider leg, pushing it in until the damper assembly bottoms on the inside
page 19 of the slider leg.
page 20
page 21 13. Thoroughly clean the threads of the Allen bolt that secures the damper to the slider
page 22 leg. Place the lock washer on the bolt first and then the thick flat washer. Hold the fork
page 23
assembly as shown in Fig. 181 and insert the bolt up through the hole in the slider and
thread it into the damper assembly. Tighten the bolt securely.
page 24
page 25
NOTE: If the screw will not tighten because the damper rotates along with the screw,
page 26
locate an old engine case screw, or any other 6 mm bolt that has 6 mm x 1 threads, and
page 27 is threaded more than 3/4". Grind the end of it to a point and then screw it into the
page 28 drain hole in the bottom of the slider leg. Turn it in until you feel it touch the pedestal,
page 29 then turn it 1/2 turn further. Now you will be able to tighten the Allen screw securely

OSSA works manual
page 30 as the damper assembly cannot turn. Remove the pointed screw from the drain hole
page 31 and install the drain plug screw, making sure that the fiber washer that goes beneath it
page 32 is in good condition.
page 33
page 34 14. Repeat this assembly process for the other fork assembly.
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65 FIG. 180
page 66
page 67
Page 140
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19 FIG. 181
page 20
page 21
page 22 Page 141
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA Section 5:
Works
manual Reassembly of the Front Suspension
by: Paul Dean
webified 1 . Apply a light film of oil or grease to the inside of the fork seals and dust covers.
by: Bruce Slide the covers down over the fork legs and push them over the slider legs until they
Langdon snap into place.
Index 1
Index 2 2. On Pioneer and Stiletto models, the left fork has a mounting lug for the brake
page 1 anchor strap on the fork, and it faces the front of the machine. The right-hand fork has
page 2 no mounting lugs.
page 3
page 4 3. On Plonker models, both of the forks each have two fender mounting lugs;
page 5 therefore, it is very possible to get the forks mixed up. To mount the forks correctly,
page 6 look closely at the bottom of each, slider leg at the axle mounting bosses. You will
page 7
notice that one side of this mounting boss is machined flat. This is the inside of the
fork. (Fig. 182) Also, the drain screws should also point rearward.
page 8
page 9
4. Grasp one of the forks by the fork tube just above the slider leg. Start it up through
page 10
the bottom yoke, twisting it back and forth while pushing upward.
page 11
page 12
5. On Pioneer and Plonker models, slide the tube through the headlight bracket.
page 13
page 14 6. Continue pushing the tube upward until the top of the tube (not the stanchion nut) is
page 15 flush with the top of the upper yoke. (Fig. 183) Turn one of the 6 mm fork pinch bolts
page 16 on the upper yoke until it is snug. Do not tighten it.
page 17
page 18 7. Install the other fork assembly in this same manner.
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31
page 32
page 33
page 34
page 35
page 36
page 37
page 38
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53 FIG. 182
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
page 70
page 71
page 72
page 73
page 74
page 75
page 76
page 77
page 78
page 79
page 80
page 81
page 82
page 83
page 84
page 85
page 86
page 87
page 88
page 89
page 90
page 91
page 92
page 93
page 94
page 95
FIG. 183
page 96
page 97
Page 142
page 98
page 99
page 100
page 101
page 102
page 103
page 104
page 105
page 106
page 107
page 108
page 109

OSSA works manual
8. On Plonker models, install the front fender on the four fork mounting lugs. The rear
OSSA lug on the left fork also holds the speedometer and bracket. Tighten all the 10 mm nuts
Works and bolts to 6 ft. lbs. torque.
manual
by: Paul Dean 9. Locate the front wheel assembly, axle, wheel spacers, and when fitted, speedometer
webified drive unit.
by: Bruce
Langdon 10. Pioneer and Stiletto. Position the front wheel between the forks with the brake
Index 1 assembly on the left. Put the speedometer
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28 FIG. 184
page 29
drive (or large shielded spacer) on the right and the flat spacer washer on the left.
OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31 NOTE: When fitting the speedometer drive to the front wheel be careful to put the two
page 32 driving tabs of the drive unit into the two recesses provided in the hub. (Fig. 184) On
page 33 1972 Plonker models, the speedometer drive goes on the left.
page 34
page 35 11. Slide the front axle through the forks and wheel from right to left. On 1972 Plonker
page 36 models, the axle goes through from left to right. Put the flat washer on the axle first;
page 37 then the axle nut. Tighten them finger tight.
page 38
page 39 NOTE: On all models except 5 speed Plonkers there are two large flat washers on the
page 40 front axle, one thick one and one thin one. The thick one is the spacer between the
brake assembly and the inside of the fork slider. The thin one goes beneath the axle
page 41
nut.
page 42
page 43
12. Mount the front brake anchor strap to its lug on the left fork. Secure it with the two
page 44
10 mm bolts and nuts. There is a flat washer beneath the head of each bolt, a lock
page 45 washer beneath each nut. Tighten them to 6 ft. lbs. torque. It is a good idea to put a
page 46 few drops of Loctite on the threads of each nut before mounting.
page 47
page 48 13. Put the axle pinch bolts in place with the head of the bolt facing forward. There is a
page 49 flat washer that goes beneath the head of the bolt and one flat washer and one lock
page 50 washer beneath each nut. Tighten them finger tight.
page 51
page 52 14. On Plonker models, connect the speedometer cable to the drive unit on the front
page 53 wheel.
page 54
page 55
Page 143
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
15. Set the motorcycle so that both wheels are on the floor. Straddle the front wheel
OSSA and press your knees up against it. Grasp the forks by the top section of the fork tubes
Works and twist them until the center line of the front wheel is perpendicular to the steering
manual yoke.
by: Paul Dean
webified 16. At this point, tighten each fork tube pinch bolt evenly to 10 ft. lbs. torque.
by: Bruce
Langdon 17. Tighten the Allen clamp bolt on the top yoke. This is the bolt that pinches the
Index 1 steering shaft. Torque it to 15 ft. lbs. torque. (Fig. 185)
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
page 24
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28 FIG. 185
page 29
18. Tighten the 27 mm nut on the top yoke to 35 ft. lbs. torque.
OSSA works manual
page 30
page 31 19. Hold the right side of the axle and tighten the axle nut to 60 ft. lbs. On the 5-speed
page 32 Plonker, hold the left side of the axle and torque the nut to 50 ft. lbs.
page 33
page 34 20. Tighten only the left axle pinch bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque. On the 5-speed PI onker,
page 35 tighten only the right one to 15 ft. lbs. torque.
page 36
page 37 21. With the right axle pinch bolt loose (left bolt on 5-speed Plonker), pump the forks
page 38 up and down eight or ten times. This allows the right fork slider leg to move slightly
page 39
from right to left and when the forks are pumped up and down, it can move to align
itself, reducing the chance of the forks binding. Now tighten the right axle pinch bolt
page 40
to 15 ft. lbs. torque. On the Plonker, tighten the left pinch bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque.
page 41
page 42
22. On Pioneer and Plonker models, tighten the headlight mounting brackets. On the
page 43 Stiletto, replace the number plate, fastening it in place with the elastic strap.
page 44
page 45 23. Move the forks from right to left. If they are hard to move, the steering bearings
page 46 will need to be loosened. With both wheels on the ground, have someone hold the rear
page 47 brake on. Grasp the front wheel in one hand, and put the fingers of your other hand at
page 48 the point where the top yoke and the steering head come together. Now try to rotate
page 49 the wheel back and forth. (Fig. 186) If, while you are doing this, you can feel any
page 50 movement between the yoke and the steering head, this means the bearings are too
page 51 loose and will need to be tightened.
page 52
page 53
Page 144
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
OSSA
Works
manual
by: Paul Dean
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon
Index 1
Index 2
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
page 13
page 14
page 15
page 16
page 17
page 18
page 19 FIG. 186
page 20
page 21 24. To adjust the steering bearings, first loosen the 27 mm nut on the top yoke. Loosen
page 22 the 8 mm Allen pinch bolt on the top yoke. Loosen all of the 6 mm fork tube pinch
page 23 bolts on the top yoke.
page 24
page 25 25. To tighten the steering bearings, turn the steering shaft collar nut 1/8 turn
page 26 clockwise by tapping it with a mallet and drift. (Fig. 187) Check the feel of the
page 27 bearings again by swiveling the forks back and forth. If they are still too loose, turn the
page 28 nut another 1/8 turn and check the feel. Repeat this process until the desired
adjustment is reached. Gently tap on the top yoke with a rawhide or plastic mallet.
page 29
Torque the four 6 mm fork tube Allen pinch bolts to 10 ft. lbs. torque. Tighten the 8

OSSA works manual
page 30 mm steering shaft Allen pinch bolt to 15 ft. lbs. torque. Tighten the 27 mm nut on the
page 31 top yoke to 35 ft. lbs. torque.
page 32
page 33 26. To loosen the steering bearings, loosen the four 6 mm fork tube Allen pinch bolts
page 34 on the top yoke, loosen the 27 mm nut on the top yoke, and loosen the 8 mm steering
page 35 shaft Allen pinch bolt. Rotate the steering shaft collar nut counterclockwise 1/8 turn by
page 36
tapping it with a mallet and punch. Swivel the forks back and forth to check for
freeness. If they are still too tight, loosen the collar nut another 1/8 turn and recheck.
page 37
Repeat this process until the desired adjustment is reached. Gently tap the top yoke in
page 38
all directions with
page 39
page 40
page 41
page 42
page 43
page 44
page 45
page 46
page 47
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67 FIG. 187
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
a plastic or rawhide mallet. Torque the fork tube pinch bolts to 10 ft. lbs. Torque the 8
OSSA mm steering shaft Allen pinch bolt to 15 ft. lbs. Torque the 27 mm nut on the top yoke
Works to 35 ft. lbs.
manual
by: Paul Dean 27. Reinstall the handlebars on the top yoke. Start all four of the 6 mm handlebar Allen
webified clamp bolts and run them down evenly until they are snug. Position the bars where you
by: Bruce want them, then torque the bolts evenly to 10 f t. lbs.
Langdon
Index 1 28. Route the front brake cable down to the brake assembly. Put the end of the outer
Index 2 cable into the stop on the brake backing plate. Lift the brake arm upward as far as
page 1 possible and slip the nipple of the cable into the end of the arm. Adjust the brake with
page 2 the thumb screw adjuster on the handlebar lever.
page 3
page 4
29. Remove the 25 mm stanchion nut from the right fork tube. Pour 190 - 200 cc's of
Full Bore SAE 80 Racing Gear Box Oil, or SAE 30 motor oil into the right fork leg.
page 5
page 6
30. Chapter 1 of this Part (Part D) of this Manual describes changing the fork oil. The
page 7
last nine paragraphs of that chapter describe the proper method for servicing the ball
page 8 checks which are fitted inside each stanchion nut. Refer to that chapter for information
page 9 pertaining to these ball checks.
page 10
page 11 31. Pioneer models only. Place the speedo-meter bracket on top of the right fork tube
page 12 and push the stanchion nut through it. Thread the nut as far as you can by hand, or at
page 13 least two or three turns, before using a wrench on it. Torque it to 50 ft. lbs. while
page 14 holding the speedometer bracket in place.
page 15
page 16 32. Remove the left stanchion plug and pour the correct amount of appropriate oil into
page 17 the left fork leg. Install the nut and torque it to 50 ft. lbs.
page 18
page 19 33. Put the fuel tank breather hose back into the end of the steering shaft.
page 20
page 21 34. On Pioneer models, connect the speedometer cable to the drive unit on the front
page 22 wheel.
page 23
page 24
Page 146
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual
OSSA SPECIFICATIONS AND DATA

Works
manual 250 250 250 250 175 175
by: Paul Dean
webified Stiletto T.
ENGINE StilettoMX Pioneer Plonker Stiletto Pioneer
by: Bruce T.
Langdon Two- Two- Two- Two- Two-
Index 1
1. Type Two-Cycle
Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle
Index 2 2. No of
page 1 One One One One One One
cylinders
page 2
60.9 m
page 3 3. Bore 72 mm 72 mm 72 mm 72 mm 60.9 mm
m
page 4
page 5 4. Stroke 60 mm 60 mm 60 mm 60 mm 60 mm 60 mm
page 6 5.
244 cc 244 cc 244 cc 244 cc 175 cc 175 cc
page 7 Displacement
page 8 6.
page 9 Compression 12.3 to 1 13.4 to 1 12.3 to 1 9.8 to 1 13.0 to 1 10.2 to 1
page 10 Ratio
page 11
7. Piston Sizes Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard
page 12 Standard
page 13 1 st over 1 st over 1 st over 1 st
page 14 1st over 1st over
Available (+. 2 m (+.2 m (+. 2 m over (+.2
page 15 (+.2 mm) (+.2 mm)
m) m) m) mm)
page 16
2nd over 2nd over 2nd over 2nd over 2nd over 2nd over
page 17 (+A mm) (+A mm) (+A mm) (+A mm) (+A mm) (+A mm)
page 18
3rd over 3rd over 3rd over 3rd over 3rd over 3rd over
page 19
(+.6 mm) (+.6 mm) (+.6 mm) (+.6 mm) (+.6 mm) (+.6 mm)
page 20
page 21
page 22
page 23
CARBURETOR
page 24
page 25
page 26 1. Brand IRZ IRZ IRZ IRZ IRZ IRZ
page 27 Double Double Double Single Double Double
2. Type
page 28 Needle Needle Needle Needle Needle Needle
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 3. Venturi
page 31 33 mm 33 mm 29 mm 27 mm 29 mm 29 mm
Diameter
page 32
4. Mid-
page 33 Range Main 76 96 * 68 **75 N/A 80 82
page 34 Jet Size
page 35
5. Hi-Speed
page 36 * 106
Main Jet 115 108 110 90 100
page 37 **105
Size
page 38
6. Pilot Jet
page 39 40 40 * 40 **53 48 40 35
Size
page 40
page 41 7. Slide No. 4 No. 4 No. 4 No. 5 No. 4 No. 6
page 42
page 43 *1971 Models
page 44 **1972 Models
page 45
page 46
page 47 Page 147
page 48
page 49
page 50
page 51
page 52
page 53
page 54
page 55
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual
SPECIFICATIONS AND DATA

OSSA
Works 250 250
manual 250 250 175 175
Stiletto Stiletto T.
by: Paul Dean Pioneer Plonker Stiletto Pioneer
MX T.
webified
by: Bruce ELECTRICS
Langdon
Index 1 Magneto Magneto Magneto Magneto Magneto Magneto
Index 2 1. Ignition
Flywheel Flywheel Flywheel Flywheel Flywheel Flywheel
page 1
Direct A.
page 2 2. Lighting None None Battery None Battery
C.
page 3
3. Lighting
page 4
System None None 6V 6V None 6V
page 5
Voltage
page 6
Pointless Pointless Pointless Pointless Pointless Pointless
page 7
4. Ignition Solid Solid Solid Solid Solid Solid
page 8
System State State State State State State
page 9
Electronic Electronic Electronic Electronic Electronic Electronic
page 10
NGK NGK NG K NGK NGK NGK
page 11
5. Spark Plug B10EN B10EN B9ES or B8ES or B10EN B9ES or
page 12
or equiv. or equiv. equiv. equiv. or equiv. equiv.
page 13
page 14 6. Headlight 6V 6V 6V
None None None
Bulb 3013OW 3013OW 3013OW
page 15
page 16 6V
7. Tail/Stop 6V 6V
page 17 None None 5/15W (2 None
Bulb 5/20W 5/20W
page 18 bulbs)
page 19 8. High Beam 6V
None None None None 6 V 1.5W
page 20 Indicator Bulb 1.5W
page 21
page 22
GEARING
page 23
page 24
page 25
1. Primary
2.26:1 2.26:1 2.26:1 2.26:1 2.26:1 2.26:1
Drive Ratio
page 26
page 27 2. list Gear
2.62:1 1.99:1 3.60:1 4.31:1 2.62:1 3.60:1
page 28 Ratio
page 29

OSSA works manual
page 30 3. 2nd Gear

page 31 1.80:1 1.48:1 2.44:1 3.24:1 1.80:1 2.44:1
Ratio
page 32
4. 3rd Gear
page 33 1.43:1 1.21:1 1.81:1 2.40:1 1.34:1 1.81:1
Ratio
page 34
5. 4th Gear
page 35 1.10:1 1.04:1 1.35:1 1.62:1 1.10:1 1.35:1
Ratio
page 36
page 37 6. 5th Gear
1:1 1:1 1:1 1:1 1:1 1:1
page 38
Ratio
page 39 7. Gearbox
12 Teeth 12 Teeth 12 Teeth 12 Teeth 12 Teeth 11 Teeth
page 40 Sprocket
page 41 8. Rearwheel
53 Teeth 53 Teeth 40 Teeth 46 Teeth 53 Teeth 40 Teeth
page 42 Sprocket
page 43 9. Gearbox
page 44 1 quart 1 quart 1 quart 1 quart 1 quart 1 quart
oil Capacity
page 45
Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore
page 46 SAE 80W SAE 80W SAE 80W SAE 80W SAE 80W SAE 80W
page 47 Racing Racing Racing Racing Racing Racing
page 48 Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box
10. Gearbox
page 49 Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant
Lubricant
page 50 or its or its or its or its or its or its
page 51 equiv., or equiv., or equiv., or equiv., or equiv., or equiv., or
page 52 SAE 30W SAE 30W SAE 30W SAE 30W SAE 30W SAE 30W
page 53 Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil
page 54
page 55 Page 148
page 56
page 57
page 58
page 59
page 60
page 61
page 62
page 63
page 64
page 65
page 66
page 67
page 68
page 69

OSSA works manual

OSSA
Works 250Stiletto 250Stiletto
manual 250Pioneer 250Plonker 175Stiletto 175Pioneer
MX T.T.
by: Paul Dean
webified PRIMARY
by: Bruce CHAIN
Langdon
Index 1 Joresa Joresa Joresa Joresa Joresa Joresa
Index 2 1. Brand
2032-50 2032-50 2032-50 2032-50 2032-50 2032-50
page 1
3/8" - 3/8" - 3/8" - 3/8" - 3/8" - 3/8" -
page 2 2. Pitch
double row double row double row double row double row double row
page 3
3. Width 0.225 0.225 0.225 0.225 0.225 0.225
page 4
page 5 4. Diameterof
1/4" 1/4" 1/4" 1/4" 1/4" 1/4"
page 6 Rollers
page 7 5. No of Links 50 50 50 50 50 50
page 8 REAR CHAIN
page 9
page 10
1. Brand Joresa 520 Joresa 520 Joresa 520 Joresa 520 Joresa 520 Joresa 520
page 11
page 12 2. Pitch 5/8- 5/8- 5/8- 5/8- 5/8- 5/8-
page 13 3. Width .255 (1/4") .255 (1/4") .255 (1/4") .255 (1/4") .255 (1/4") .255 (1/4")
page 14 4. Diameter of
page 15 0.4" 0.4" 0.4" 0.4" 0.4" 0.4"
Rollers
page 16
5. Number of
page 17 116 116 106 96 116 106
Links
page 18
FRONT
page 19
SUSPENSION
page 20
page 21
page 22 Betor Betor Betor Betor Betor Betor
1. Type
page 23
Telescopic Telescopic Telescopic Telescopic Telescopic Telescopic
page 24 2. Travel 6 1/2" 6 1/2" 6 1/2" 7" 6 1/2" 6 1/2"
page 25 Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore Full Bore
page 26 SAE SAE SAE SAE SAE SAE
page 27 80WRacing 80WRacing 80WRacing 80WRacing 80WRacing 80WRacing
page 28 Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box Gear Box
3. Type of Oil
page 29 Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant Lubricant
page 30 or SAE or SAE or SAE or SAE or SAE or SAE
page 31
30W 30W 30W 30W 30W 30W
Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil Motor Oil
page 32
page 33 4. Quantity per
200 c.c. 200 c.c. 200 c.c. 200 c.c. 200 c.c. 200 c.c.
Leg .

OSSA works manual

OSSA
Works 250 250
manual 250 250 175 175
Stiletto Stiletto
MX T.T.
webified
by: Bruce
Langdon REAR
Index 1 SUSPENSION
Index 2
page 1 Betor 5- Betor 5- Betor 5- Betor 5- Betor 5- Betor 5-
page 2 1. Type way way way way way way
page 3 adjustable adjustable adjustable adjustable adjustable adjustable
page 4 2. Travel 3 1/2" 3 1/2" 3 1/2" 3 1/2" 3 1/2" 3 1/2"
page 5
WHEELS &
page 6
TIRES
page 7
page 8
page 9 3.00 x 21 3.50 x 19 3.00 x 21 2.75 x 21 3.00 x 21 3.00 x 21
1. Front Tire
knob trials knob trials knob knob
page 10
page 11 4.00 x 18 4.00 x 18 4.00 x 18 4.00 x 18 4.00 x 18 4.00 x 18
2. Rear Tire
page 12 knob knob knob trials knob knob
page 13 3. Spokes,
36 36 36 36 36 36
page 14 Front Wheel
page 15 4. Spokes, Rear
page 16
36 36 36 36 36 36
Wheel
page 17 4 mm at 4 mm at 4 mm at 4 mm at 4 mm at 4 mm at
page 18 5. Spoke
hub 3 hub 3 hub 3 hub 3 hub 3 hub 3
page 19 Diameter
mm at rim mm at rim mm at rim mm at rim mm at rim mm at rim
page 20
8-10 8-10 8-10 8-10 8-10
page 21 4-6 front
6. Tire Pressures front 10- front 10- front 10- front 10- front 10-
page 22 6-8 rear
15 rear 15 rear 15 rear 15 rear 15 rear
page 23
page 24
Page 150
page 25
page 26
page 27
page 28
page 29

OSSA works manual

OSSA
Works 250 250
manual 250 250 175 175
Stiletto Stiletto T.
MX T.
webified
by: Bruce BRAKES
Langdon
Index 1 Internal Internal Internal Internal Internal Internal
Index 2 expanding, expanding, expanding, expanding, expanding, expanding,
page 1 1. Type single single single single single single
page 2 leading leading leading leading leading leading
page 3 shoe. shoe. shoe. shoe. shoe. shoe.
page 4 2. Drum
158 mm 158 mm 158 mrn 122 mm 158 mm 158 mm
page 5 Diameter
page 6 GENERAL
page 7 DATA
page 8
page 9
1.
page 10 54.5" 54.5" 54.5" 51" 54.5" 54.5"
Wheelbase
page 11
page 12
2. Overall
81" 81" 81" 77" 81" 81"
Length
page 13
page 14 3. Saddle
31" 31" 31" 30" 31" 31"
page 15 Height
page 16 4.
page 17 Minimum
7" 6" 10" 10 1/2" 7" 10"
page 18 Ground
page 19 Clearance
page 20 5. Dry
233 Ibs. 236 Ibs. 242 Ibs. 197 Ibs. 228 lbs. 242 lbs.
page 21 Weight
page 22 6. Fuel
page 23 Tank 2.6 gals. 2.6 gals. 3 gals. 1.5 gals. 2.6 gals. 3 gals.
page 24 Capacity
page 25 7. Reserve
page 26 1/2 gal. 1/2 gal. 1/2 gal. .3 gal. 1/2 gal. 1/2 gal.
Capacity
page 27
page 28 Page 151
page 29
page 30

OSSA Five Speed - Workshop Manual

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

OSSA Five Speed - Workshop Manual

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

OSSA works manual

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:44:04 a.m.

page 30 Section 2: 0 to 1/8 Throttle: The Pilot Metering System 89

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:44:04 a.m.

OSSA Chapter 2: Adjustment and Tuning of the Carburetor Page

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:45:40 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:46:29 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:46:29 a.m.

10 o'clock - 4 o'clock - 2 o'clock - 8 o'clock, as illustrated by Figure 1. Using the same

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:47:30 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:47:30 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:53:41 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:53:41 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:48:33 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:49:14 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:49:14 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/Page6.htm27/07/2009 11:49:55 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:50:32 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:50:32 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (3 of 5)27/07/2009 11:50:32 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/Page8.htm27/07/2009 11:51:14 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:51:48 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:51:48 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:52:17 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:52:17 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:52:52 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:52:52 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:54:26 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:54:26 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:54:58 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:54:58 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 11:55:29 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:55:29 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:55:54 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:56:34 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 4)27/07/2009 11:56:34 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:57:10 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 4)27/07/2009 11:57:10 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:57:33 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:58:00 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:58:33 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:58:56 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 4)27/07/2009 11:58:56 a.m.

OSSA B. Power Transmission Through The Gears

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 11:59:14 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 11:59:31 a.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:00:03 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:00:27 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:00:47 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:01:12 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:01:33 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:02:56 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:04:05 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 4)27/07/2009 12:04:05 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:04:59 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 4)27/07/2009 12:04:59 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:05:21 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:05:45 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 4)27/07/2009 12:05:45 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 4)27/07/2009 12:06:09 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 12:06:44 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (2 of 5)27/07/2009 12:06:44 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (1 of 5)27/07/2009 12:07:15 p.m.

http://hem.spray.se/manyb/ (3 of 5)27/07/2009 12:07:15 p.m.