Fox Doll

Fox doll
For the shoes pictured please search Etsy

for size 3.2cm, Leather doll shoes or
similar. I bought mine from
BlacksparrowUK
and
PSfabricshop
MATERIALS
YARN
My yarn choices, the brand and shades I used, are italicized:
Yarn A ORANGE 4-PLY WOOL – I used half 25g ball Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift shade 478 Amber
Yarn B WHITE 4-PLY WOOL/ ALPACA – I used less than a quarter 50g ball Drops Alpaca shade 0100 Off-
White
Yarn C DARK GREY OR BLACK 4-PLY WOOL/ ALPACA – I used less than a quarter 50g ball Drops
Alpaca shade 0506 Dark-Grey Mix
Yarn D WHITE MOHAIR – I used a tiny amount taken from 25g ball Drops Kid-Silk shade 01 Off-White
This is the website for the Drops yarn - Garnstudio.com Available from here KnittedHome.com
This is the website for the Jamieson yarn - Loopknitting.com
If you wish to substitute try Yarnsub.com
KNITTING NEEDLES
Pair of 2.75mm single point knitting needles – I use LYKKE Driftwood 25cm length ones
GAUGE
17.5 rows and 15 stitches over 5cm (2in) with 2.75mm needles
TOY EYES
Pair 2 x black 5mm black toy safety eyes with metal washer-type backs - This is the website for the eyes -
CelloExpress.co.uk
TOY FILLING
I use uncarded toy filling out of preference but for such a small project any toy filling and yarn snippings
EXTRAS
Scissors and yarn-sewing needle, 12-14 coloured stitch markers (see page 3)
PLUS: If you want to add wire into the limbs and body you’ll need three 10 inches long x 22 gauge ones
(see NOTE on page 3) - This is the website for the wires Etsy.com
FINISHED SIZE 18cm/ 7in tall from feet to top of head

Fox Doll page 3 Fox Doll page 4
COLOURED MARKER GUIDE: SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS

This guide is here to pull out and use together with the should you W+Tk bring working yarn to the front of the work, slip next stitch purl-
to wish to use similar coloured guides to mine for ease of following, wise onto the RH needle, take working yarn to the back, slip the slipped
especially at the making-up stage: stitch back onto the LH needle, turn the knitting = W+Tk (wrap and turn
ORANGE NOSE knit)
BROWN (OR YELLOW) NECK
W+Tp take working yarn to the back of the work, slip next stitch knit-
TURQUOISE LEFT EAR FRONT
wise onto the RH needle, bring working yarn to the front, slip the slipped
LIME RIGHT EAR FRONT stitch back onto the LH needle, turn the knitting = W+Tp (wrap and turn
TURQUOISE LEFT EAR BACK purl)
LIME RIGHT EAR BACK
PINK FRONT GENERAL ABBREVIATIONS
GREEN ARM PLACEMENT k = knit
BLUE HOLDING STITCHES FOR HIND LEGS p = purl

YELLOW SHOULDER inc = increase
dec = decrease
PATTERN NOTES & TIPS:
k2tog/ k3tog = knit two together/ knit three together
. I cast on with Cable Cast On Method
. I sew all my seams with a single strand p2tog/ p3tog = purl two together/ purl three together
of mohair RH/LH = right hand/ left hand RS/WS = right side/ wrong side
- The Wires I used for this project were lengths of florists’ ‘stub’ st/ sts =stitch/ stitches
wire – I bought a bundle of 20 x 10 inches long x 22 gauge ones from skpo = slip one stitch, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch to decrease by
Etsy and they are perfect – length-wise, strength-wise and malleable
one stitch
enough to bend and shape my doll.
kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch to increase by one stitch
pfb = purl into front then knit into back of stitch to increase by one stitch
m1= with RH needle point pick up the horizontal bar in between stitches, put onto LH
needle, knit the new stitch

HEAD Row 10. inc) Kfb, k9, kfb, k1, kfb, k9, kfb - 27sts
Beginning at the Nose Row 11. Purl
With yarn A and cast on 5 sts for Nose Seam
Work short rows to shape Forehead as follows:
Row 1. Purl
Short Row 1. K20, W+Tk
Row 2. inc) [Kfb, k1] twice, kfb - 8sts
Short Row 2. P13, W+Tp
Rows 3, 5 & 7. Purl
Row 4. inc) Kfb, k3, m1, k3, kfb - 11sts
Row 6. inc) Kfb, k3, kfb, k1, kfb, k3, kfb - 15sts
Row 8. inc) Kfb twice, [k3, kfb] twice, k3, kfb twice - 21sts
Row 9. Purl PM (Place Marker) on first and last stitch for Left & Right Nose
Markers (orange)
Work short rows to shape Fox’ Left Muzzle Short Row 9. K6, W+Tk
Short row 1. K7, W+Tk (Wrap and Turn knit, see page 4) Short Row 10. P5, W+Tp
Short row 2. P7 Short Row 11. K16 to end of row
Short row 3. K6, W+Tk
Row 12. Purl PM on first and last stitch for Left & Right Neck Markers
Short row 4. P4, W+Tp (NOTE: this is correct) (Wrap and Turn purl, see page 4)
Row 13. K11 PM on last stitch (11th stitch) for Left Ear Front Marker, knit next 6
sts PM on last stitch (6th stitch) for Right Ear Front Marker, k10 to end of row
Short row 6. P2, W+Tp
Row 14. Purl
Short row 7. inc) K6, kfb, k1, kfb, k9 to end of row
Row 15. dec) K8, skpo, k7, k2tog, k8 – 25sts
Work short rows to shape Fox’ Right Muzzle Row 16. Purl
Short row 1. P7, W+Tp Row 17. dec) K7 PM on last stitch for Left Ear Back Marker, knit next 2 sts, skpo,
Short row 2. K7 k3, k2tog, k3 PM on last stitch for Right Ear Back Marker, k6 to end of row - 23sts
Short row 3. P6, W+Tp Row 18. Purl
Short row 4. K4, W+Tk Row 19. dec) K8, skpo, k3, k2tog, k8 – 21sts
Short row 5. P3, W+Tp Row 20. Purl
Short row 7. P20 to end of row (23sts)
Divide the Head Back to create Head Back Seam as follows:

Row 21. dec) Cast off 7 sts for Head Back Seam, Left-Side, knit next 6 sts, cast HEAD BACK STITCHES
off last 7 sts for Head Back Seam, Right-Side – 7sts
D C
Head Back
WS facing rejoin yarn A and to 7 sts for Head Back, continue as follows: RIGHT
CORNER
E LEFT
Rows 22-28. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch B CORNER
Cut yarn but leave all 7 Head Back stitches on the knitting needle
NECK AND BACK F A

Joining Left Side of head - With yarn A and begin at fox’s Left Neck Marker, RIGHT
RS facing pick up and knit 4 sts evenly along row ends to the left-side corner of NECK
MARKER LEFT
Head Back Seam Cast-Off Edge; knit across all 7 Head Back stitches – Joining NECK
Right Side of Head: Continue to pick up across the right side of the head, all MARKER
onto the same needle as follows: Pick up and knit 4 sts evenly along row ends NOSE
from right corner of Head Back Seam Cast-Off Edge to Right Neck Marker – CAST ON EDGE
15sts – See Figs. 1 & 2, Pick up and knit from A to B; knit across from C to D; pick
FIG. 1
up and knit from E to F
Row 1. Purl all 15 sts

Row 2. inc) Kfb twice, knit to last 2 sts, kfb twice – 19sts PM on first and last
stitch for Left & Right Front Markers
Row 3. Purl
Row 4. K6 PM on last stitch for Left Arm Placement Marker, k8 PM on last
stitch for Right Arm Placement Marker, k5 to end of row
Row 5. Purl
Row 6. inc) Kfb, knit to last st, kfb – 21sts
Rows 7-13. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch
FIG. 2
Work short rows to shape the Belly, Left-Side Row 28. dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog - 3sts
Short Row 1 K7, W+Tk Row 29. P3, Turn
Short Row 2 P7 Row 30. dec) K3tog, fasten off for Belly Point.
Short Row 3 K6, W+Tk
Belly, Left-Side
Short Row 4 P6
WS facing, rejoin yarn to 6 sts for Left-Side Belly, continue as follows:
Short Row 5 K5, W+Tk
Rows 23-25. Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch
Short Row 6 P5
Row 26. dec) K2, k2tog, k2 - 5sts
Row 14. dec) K8, skpo, k1, k2tog, k8 to end of row - 19sts
Row 27. P5, Turn
Work short rows to shape the Belly, Right-Side Row 28. dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog - 3sts
Short Row 1 P7, W+Tp Row 29. P3, Turn
Short Row 2 K7 Row 30. dec) K3tog, fasten off for Belly Point.
Short Row 3 P6, W+Tp
TAIL
Short Row 4 K6
Return the Back Cast-off Edge
Short Row 5 P5, W+Tp
RS and fox’s Back facing you, with yarn A pick up and knit 15 stitches into the
Short Row 6 K5
cast-off edge from your right to your left
Rows 15-17. Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch Row 1. P10, Turn so knit-side faces
Row 18. inc) K5, kfb 9 times, k5 to end of row - 28sts Row 2. inc) Kfb, k3, kfb, Turn so purl-side faces – 7 Tail sts
You’ll now continue to work on just 6 Tail sts as follows:
Row 22. dec) K6, cast off next 16 sts for Back, knit next 5 sts to end – 12sts
Row 3. inc) Cast on 4 sts for Right-Side Tail Underside, purl all 11 Tail sts
NOTE: You should have two sets of 6 sts either side of the 16 cast-off stitches Row 4. inc) Cast on 4 sts for Left-Side Tail Underside, knit all 15 Tail sts
– these 2 sets of 6 sts are the Left and Right Belly sts
NOTE: Slip the two sets of 5 sts either side of the 15 Tail sts onto small safety pins
Belly, Right-Side or lockable stitch markers (Blue)
Row 23. P6, Turn (flip work over so that Knit Side faces)
Row 5. P15 Tail sts
Row 24. K6
Row 6. inc) Kfb, k13, kfb – 17 Tail sts
Row 25. P6, Turn
Row 7. P17
Row 26. dec) K2, k2tog, k2 - 5sts
Row 8. inc) Kfb, k15, kfb – 19sts
Row 27. P5, Turn
Rows 9-15. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch
Row 16. dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog – 17sts
Row 17. Purl
Rows 18-27. dec) Repeat last 2 rows five times – 7sts
Cut yarn A, join yarn B for the Tail Tip, continue as follows:
HEAD
Row 28. dec) K2tog, k3, k2tog – 5sts
BACK
Rows 29 & 31. Purl SEAM
Row 30. dec) K2tog, k1, k2tog – 3sts
Row 32. dec) K3tog, fasten off for Tail Point. A
Before working on the Chin, Hind Legs and Ears, join the Head and Body B
Seams as follows: NOSE &
MUZZLE
Join Head Back Seam
SEAM
RS together, working on one side at a time, match the cast-off edge from Head
FRONT
Back Seam to Head Back Rows Ends and work back-stitch to join the Head Back MARKERS
Seam Cast-Off Edge to the row ends at the back of the head. – See Fig. 3, join
dotted line A to dotted line B
When both head back seams, one each side of the head, have been sewn turn to
RS.
Join Nose Seam

WS together fold the Nose Cast-On Edge from the beginning of the pattern in
half and join both halves together with mattress stitch. – See Fig. 3, dashed line FIG. 3
Join Muzzle Seam

WS together match both Left and Right Nose Markers (orange) and mattress
stitch to join the Muzzle from the markers to the Nose Seam. – See Fig. 3, dashed
line.
Remove Nose Markers.
Join the Belly Seam

WS together, match up the two Front Markers then join the two Belly Points
together and work mattress stitch to join along the Belly Seam from belly
points to front markers.
Remove one of the Front Markers. – See Fig. 4, join both sides as dotted line
from A to B
Join the Tail Seam

WS together, match the row ends from the Tail Point all along the tail to
the Tail Underside Cast-On Edges and mattress stitch to join. Stuff the tail
a little, and, if you want to be able to bend the tail, add a strip of wire (** see
page 3 for NOTE about wire-type and page opposite for how to add it) before
almost closing the Tail Seam by joining the two tail underside cast-on edges
together. – See Fig. 5, dashed line shows seam as sewn
WIRE THAT GOES THROUGH

THE TAIL AND INTO THE
TAIL SEAM
BODY (THIS IS OPTIONAL)
LEFT & RIGHT
FIG. 5
FRONT
MARKERS
To add the wire, pass it through the tail and into the body and head. Bend
BELLY SEAM over the sharp ends and then wrap/ wind a length of yarn around and
around to enclose the bent ends and make safe the sharp points.
When all is safe from sharp points you can thread up your yarn needle and
BELLY POINTS pass the end around and around the loop created when you bent the end of
the wire and fully secure the yarn end by threading it through the
yarn-wrapped bundle. See Page 28 for an illustrated how-to
FIG. 4
CHIN
With the Belly Seam facing you, begin at fox’s Left Neck Marker and with yarn
B pick up and knit 4 sts along row ends from left neck marker to the Belly
Seam/ Front Marker; pick up and knit a stitch at the marker; then from the
marker pick up and knit 4 sts along row ends to fox’s Right Neck Marker. - See
Figs. 6 & 7, pick up from A to B to C – 9sts
Remove Both Neck Markers and remaining Front Marker
LEFT NECK
Row 1. Purl
MARKER
Row 2. inc) Kfb, knit to last st, kfb – 11sts
C A
Rows 3-6. inc) Repeat last 2 rows twice – 15sts
Row 7. Purl
B
FRONT
Row 8. dec) K3, skpo, k5, k2tog, k3 to end of row – 13sts MARKER
BELLY SEAM
Row 9. Purl
Row 10. dec) K3, skpo, k3, k2tog, k3 to end of row – 11sts
Row 11. Purl
Row 13. dec) P2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog – 7sts
Row 15. dec) P2tog, p1, p2tog – 3sts
Row 16. dec) K3tog, fasten off for Chin Point.
FIG. 6
Stuff the Nose and Head – not too much, just enough to enhance the shape.
Stuff the body - if you’ve added wire add stuffing around the wire.
Add Eyes
Insert the eyes in place and secure them with the backs. - See Fig. 8 on next
page
FIG. 7
DASHED LINE
MARKS THE
MUZZLE SEAM
DASHED LINE
MARKS THE
NOSE SEAM
CHIN
STITCHES
B HIND LEG
STITCHES
CHIN POINT BELLY POINT

A
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
Join the Belly to Tail Seam

WS together, match the Belly Point to the end of the Tail Underside Cast-
On Edge Seam and for now work a couple of stitches to hold in place,
you’ll complete the seam when you’ve knitted the hind legs as follows: -
See Fig. 9, Join A to B
Join Chin to the Muzzle

When you are happy you have enough stuffing in the nose, head and body,
bring the Chin Point over the nose seam and place it beneath the Muzzle
Seam. Work a small stitch or two to hold in place whilst you join the chin to
both sides of the Muzzle as follows:
Working on one side at a time join the nose and the muzzle to the chin with
mattress stitch, easing the seam together as you do so – in other words you
are joining the chin over the muzzle seam, the chin completely covers the
muzzle seam - also joining the chin to the row ends at the muzzle all the way
down to where you picked up for the chin sts. - See Fig. 10
NOTE: I like to use a strand of mohair or fine or thread to sew this delicate
seam
FIG. 10
HIND LEGS SLIP THESE LEFT HJND LEG STITCHES

Return to the 2 sets of 5 stitches held on either safety pins or lockable markers. OFF THE HOLDER ONTO THE KNITTING
Begin with the Left Hind Leg:
NEEDLE
Left Hind Leg

Slip the 5 Left Hind Leg sts off their holder and onto a knitting needle ready to purl
across - See Fig. 11. With yarn A continue as follows:
Row 1. Purl
Row 2. inc) Cast on 6 sts for Hind Leg Back, k6, k2tog, k3 to end - 10sts - See Fig 12
Rows 3-7. Beginning with a purl row work five rows stocking stitch
*Row 8. inc) K4, k2tog, k4 to end of row – 9sts
Row 12. dec) [K1, k2tog] three times – 6sts
Row 13. Purl
Cut yarn A, join yarn C continue as follows:
Row 14. inc) [K2, kfb] twice - 8sts
Row 18. dec) K3, k2tog, k3 to end – 7sts
FIG. 11
6 CAST ON STITCHES
Row 22. inc) K2, kfb three times, k2 - 10sts
Paw
Row 26. inc) K4, kfb twice, k4 - 12sts
Row 27. Purl
Row 28. inc) K5, kfb twice, k5 - 14sts
Row 29. Purl
Row 30. dec) K2tog 7 times - 7sts
Cast off all 7 Paw Sole sts purlwise. **
FIG. 12
BELLY SEAM
HIND LEG BACK

CAST ON EDGE
WIRES
BEND OVER FROM
LEFT LEG TO RIGHT
LEG
FIG. 13
Join Left Hind Leg Seam

WS together fold the Paw Sole Cast-Off Edge in half and mattress
stitch to join both sides together. Then mattress stitch all along the
back of the Hind Leg Seam from the Paw Seam to the Hind Leg Back FIG. 14
Cast-On Edge, See Fig 13, adding a little stuffing and, as mentioned in
the tail, adding a strip or two of wire if you want to be able to bend the Complete Left Hind Leg Seam
legs a little (see next page). Mattress stitch the small gap between the tail and the hind leg. - See Fig 14
The Leg Seam sits at the back of the leg.
NOTE: IF you do choose to add wire then it’s best to have just one or two A Bit More About the Wires
lengths of wire per both legs – these will pass from the one hind leg, through As you can see in Fig. 16 I used two wires for the legs, for extra strength,
the space in the body near the tail and pass into the other hind leg. whereas I used only one in the tail/ body/ head.
There are more detailed images on the next page for Right Leg Seam.
Ref. Figs. 17 & 18 Bend over the end, then bind the sharp end with yarn,
passing the yarn through the loop created at the bend before threading
the needle and yarn through the bundled-up/ wrapped yarn to secure it.
RIGHT HIND LEG

STITCHES
FIG. 15
Right Hind Leg
Slip the remaining 5 sts of their holder and onto a knitting needle ready to knit
across, rejoin yarn A to continue working on the 5 Right Hind Leg sts as follows:
Row 1. Knit
Row 2. inc) Cast on 6 sts for Hind Leg Back, p6, p2tog, p3 to end - 10sts - See Fig
15
Rows 3-6. Work four rows stocking stitch
Continue as Left Hind Leg from * to **.
FIG. 16
FIG. 18
FIG. 17
A Bit More About the Wires, continued...

Ref. Figs. 19 & 20 Lay the hind leg over the bound wire
and mattress stitch to join the seam. For stuffing you can
just use yarn ends and only a little stuffing if your knitting
is nice and tight. - See Figs. 21 & 22
FIG. 19 FIG. 19 (top) FIG. 20

EARS
The Ears are knitted independently from the body and sewn onto the head
Outer Ear, make 2 alike
With yarn A cast on 11 sts
Row 1. Purl
Cut yarn A, join yarn C, continue as follows:
Rows 3, 5 & 7. Purl
Row 8. dec) Skpo, k1, k2tog – 3sts
Row 9. dec) P3tog – fasten off for Ear Point.

FIG. 21
Weave the tail end in and out along ear edge.
Inner Ear
With Back/ RS of the Outer Ear facing, with yarn D pick up and knit 11 sts all
across the Outer Ear Cast-On Edge from your right to your left.
Rows 1-5. Beginning with a purl row work five rows stocking stitch
Cast off all 11 Inner Ear sts.
Join Inner Ear Seam
WS together fold the Inner Ear Cast-Off Edge in half and mattress stitch to
join the two halves together.
Carefully and neatly join the Inner Ear to the Outer Ear so that it tucks neatly
inside the outer ear.
FIG. 22
Join Ears to the Head

1. Working on one Ear at a time, find the centre of the Ear Back and match that
centre-point to the Ear Back Marker and work a stitch to hold in place. - See Fig. 23.
Remove Ear Back Marker.
2. Match the Inner Corner of the Outer Ear Cast-On Edge to the Ear Front Marker
and work a stitch to hold in place. Remove Ear Front Marker. - See Fig. 23.
3. Bring the Outer Corner of the Ear Cast-On Edge near to the Inner Corner, in
doing so you’re creating the curve of the ear back, and work a stitch to hold in place.-
See Fig. 24.
4. Join all along to Ear Cast-On Edge to join it to the Head with mattress stitch. - See
Fig. 25.
5. Take a small brush, like a small, clean toothbrush, and gently brush the inner ear
upward to fluff up a little.- See Fig. 26.
FIG. 24
RIGHT EAR
FRONT
MARKER
RIGHT EAR
BACK
MARKER
FIG. 23
FIG. 24
FIG. 26
ARMS NOTE: If you do choose to add wire then it’s best to have a single length of
The Arms (forelegs) are knitted independently and sewn onto the body wire for both arms; pass one of the wires taken from the bundle through the
Make 2 alike body – in at one Arm Placement Marker, through the body and out at the
NOTE: If you’d rather Fox have Fingers then please go to Pages 37 & 38 other Arm Placement Marker. - See Figs 27 & 28.
With yarn A cast on 5 sts. Join Arm to Body
Row 1. inc) K2, kfb, k2 - 6sts Find the centre of the Arm Cast-On Edge and match it to the Arm Placement
Row 2. Purl Marker, hold in place with a stitch then mattress stitch all around the cast-on
Row 3. inc) K1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1 – 8sts edge joining the top of the arm to the body. - See Figs 29, 30 & 31.
Row 4. Purl Remove the Arm Placement Markers.
Row 5. inc) K2, kfb, k2, kfb, k2 – 10sts
PM at each end of last purl row for Shoulder Markers SHOULDER
Rows 6-12. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch MARKERS
Row 13. dec) K1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 - 8sts
Row 14. Purl
Cut yarn A, join yarn C, continue as follows:
Row 15. dec) K1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1 - 6sts
Row 16-22. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch
Row 23. dec) K1, k2tog, k1, k2tog - 4sts RIGHT ARM
PLACEMENT
Row 24. Purl MARKER
Cut yarn, thread end through all 4 Hand (paw) sts.
Join Arm Seam

Working on one Arm at a time, match the two shoulder markers together and
then join all along the Arm Row Ends from the markers to the fastened-off
Hand Sts adding a little stuffing and adding a strip of wire if you want to be able
to bend the arms a little. - See Note on next page.
The Arm Seam sits under the arm.
Remove the Shoulder Markers.
FIG. 27
CENTRE OF THE
CAST ON EDGE
FIG. 30
FIG. 28
FIG. 29 FIG. 31
FOX FINGERS! Complete the Hand

NOTE: They do require quite a bit of sewing and manipulating to look Using a yarn sewing needle, weave in the yarn ends on all of the fingers. You
similar to ones pictured. can use the yarn to shape and strengthen them by sewing back and forth
through the fingers. - See Fig. 32
...Carrying on from Arm Instructions on Page 33:
Then take a needle and matching sewing thread and do the same as with the
Rows 16-26. Beginning with a purl row work 11 rows stocking stitch
yarn, sewing back and forth through the fingers and around them to build up
Row 27. inc) K1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1 - 8sts
their shape and strength. - See Figs. 33 & 34
First Finger
Row 28. P2, Turn (flip work over so knit-side faces)
Row 29. K2, Turn
Row 30. P2, Turn
Row 31. dec) K2tog, Fasten off.
Second Finger
Rejoin yarn to 6 sts on knitting needle
Row 29. K2, Turn
Row 30. P2, Turn
Row 31. dec) K2tog, Fasten off.
Third Finger
*Rejoin yarn to 4 sts on knitting needle
Row 29. K2, Turn
Row 30. P2, Turn
Row 31. dec) K2tog, Fasten off.**
Fourth Finger
Repeat from * to ** for final two stitches (final finger, for a total of 4
fingers)
FIG. 32
FACE DETAIL
With a length of yarn C or dark brown yarn or thread work
embroidered straight stitches work a ‘V’ either side of the Nose then
work smaller straight stitches to fill in the nose a little.
Work a single thread embroidered line for a mouth dividing it in the
centre by working a small upward/ vertical embroidered line from the
centre of the mouth to the nose.
For the detail around the eyes, with yarn D work a simple detail around
the eye – similar to embroidering single Lazy Daisy Petal that sits
beneath the toy eye. - See Fig. 35
FIG. 33 FIG. 34
FIG. 35
Fox Doll - SWEATER page 42
SWEATER
Designed to fit Fox Doll Pattern
Sweet sweater Yarn

You will need no more than one ball of each of:
PINK 4-PLY WOOL– I used half 25g ball Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift shade
570 Sorbet
Gauge
17.5 rows and 15 stitches over 5cm (2in) with 2.75mm needles
Needles
2.75mm single point knitting needles
Beginning at the Neck

Cast on 26 sts for Neck Edge
Row 1. RS) [K1, p1] across
Rows 2-9. Repeat last row eight times
Row 10. Purl
Row 11. inc) K3, [kfb, k4] four times, kfb, k2 - 31sts
Row 12. Purl
Row 13. inc) K5, kfb, k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1, kfb, k5, kfb, k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1,
kfb, k5 - 39sts
Row 14. Purl
kfb, k6 - 47sts
Row 16. Purl
kfb, k7, - 55sts

Fox Doll - SWEATER page 43 Fox Doll - SWEATER page 44
Right Sleeve Row 21. inc) P7, pfb, Turn – 9 Left Back sts
Row 18. K23, Turn (flip work over so purl-side faces) Rows 22-31. Work ten rows stocking stitch on 9 left back sts
Continue to work on 16 Right Sleeve sts as follows: Row 32. [K1, p1] 4 times, k1
Row 19. P16, Turn so knit-side faces Row 33. [P1, k1] 4 times, p1
Rows 20-31. Work 12 rows stocking stitch on 16 right sleeve sts Rows 34-35. Repeat last 2 rows once
Row 32. dec) K2tog, k5, k2tog, k5, k2tog – 13sts Cast off in rib all 9 Left Back sts.
Row 33. [P1, k1] 6 times, p1
Front
Row 34. [K1, p1] 6 times, k1
Rejoin yarn to first set 11 sts on right-hand needle ready to purl across, con-
Rows 35-38. Repeat last 2 rows twice
tinue as follows:
Cast off in rib all 13 Right Sleeve Cuff sts.
Row 19. P11, Turn
Left Sleeve Continue to work on 11 Front sts as follows:
Rejoin yarn to 32 sts on right-hand needle ready to knit across, continue as follows: Row 20. inc) Kfb, k9, kfb – 13 Front sts
Row 18. inc) Kfb, k7, kfb, k16, Turn (flip work over so purl-side faces) Row 21. P13, Turn
Continue to work on 16 Left Sleeve sts as follows: Row 22. inc) Kfb, k11, kfb – 15 Front sts
Row 19. P16, Turn so knit-side faces Rows 23-31. Beginning with a purl row work nine rows stocking stitch on 15
Rows 20-31. Work 12 rows stocking stitch on 16 left sleeve sts front sts
Row 32. dec) K2tog, k5, k2tog, k5, k2tog – 13sts Row 32. [K1, p1] 7 times, k1
Row 33. [P1, k1] 6 times, p1 Row 33. [P1, k1] 7 times, p1
Row 34. [K1, p1] 6 times, k1 Rows 34-35. Repeat last 2 rows once
Rows 35-38. Repeat last 2 rows twice Cast off in rib all 15 Front sts.
Cast off in rib all 13 Left Sleeve Cuff sts.
Right Back
Left Back Rejoin yarn to 7 sts on right-hand needle ready to knit across, continue as
Rejoin yarn to 7 sts on right-hand needle ready to knit across, continue as follows: follows:
Row 18. Knit Continue to work on 7 Right -Back sts as follows:
Continue to work on 7 Left -Back sts as follows: Row 19. inc) Pfb, p6 – 8sts
Row 19. inc) P6, pfb, Turn – 8 Left Back sts Row 20. Knit
Row 20. Knit Row 21. inc) Pfb, p7 – 9sts
Fox Doll - SWEATER page 45 Fox Doll - SWEATER page 46
Rows 22-31. Work ten rows stocking stitch

Row 32. [K1, p1] 4 times, k1
Row 33. [P1, k1] 4 times, p1
Rows 34-35. Repeat last 2 rows once
NECK EDGE LEFT
Cast off in rib all 9 Right Back sts.
BACK
RIGHT
Join Sleeves and Back Seam
BACK
Weave in some of the loose ends keeping some for sewing the seams as
follows:
RIGHT LEFT
1. WS facing, match the row ends that run from the Neck Cast-on edge to the
SLEEVE SLEEVE
Waist cast-off edge and mattress stitch the seam from neck edge to waist edge.
FRONT
2. Working on one sleeve at a time match the row ends that run from the
Sleeve Cuff to where you divide for the sleeve the underarm split, mattress
stitch the sleeve seam from cuff edge to underarm split. Roll the cuffs over.
Join straight, grey lines together; join black dotted lines; join white dotted
3. Working on one side at a time match the row ends that run from under the
lines; join black dashed line to black dashed line; join white dashed line
sleeve to the ribbed waist edge and mattress stitch the seam from under the
to white dashed line
arm to waist edge.
Fox Doll - TROUSERS page 48
Trousers Trace the Trouser Templates on pages 45 and 46 and cut one Left Leg, one
Right Leg, two Pocket Linings and one Waistband from the felt, making two
MATERIALS cuts for the Pockets.
One piece of GREY (or colour of your choice) wool felt 1mm thick x 20cm x 20cm 1. Working on one Leg at a time, fold where it says ‘Fold’ then match the Inside
Sewing thread in a shade to match the felt Leg Edges together. Either hand- or machine-sew along the Inside Leg Seam,
This is the website for the felt - Paper & String Etsy Shop allowing for a 3mm seam allowance. Do both legs.
2. Turn one leg out to RS.
3. Place the right-side-out leg inside the inside-out leg, matching the inside leg
seams and matching the Left Front to Right Front Edges (A to B) ; Left Back
and Right Back Edges (C to D). Either hand- or machine-sew along the Front
Seam; hand- or machine-sew along the Back Seam, allowing for a 3mm seam
allowance and leaving open the space for the tail.
4. Turn the trouser to the WS.
5. Working on one pocket at a time, lay the pocket lining over the cut you made
for the pocket and over-sew by hand all around the pocket lining edge joining
the lining to the trouser, making sure the over-sew stitches cannot be seen on
the right side of the trouser. Do both pocket linings. See Figs. 1 & 2
6. Turn the trouser to the RS.
7. Turn up a 6mm hem at the ends of the legs and, if you wish, work a neat line
of stitches around the upper edge to hold the fold in place.
8. Match the two short edges of the Waistband, join with a 3mm seam
allowance then fold the waistband over along the length, making sure the seam
is on the inside of the fold.
9. Work a running/ gathering stitch around the top of the Trouser Waist Edge
and gather up until the circumference is the same at the waistband. See Fig. 3
10. Fit the waistband over the gathered edge and neatly sew in place, the
waistband seam should align with the seam at the back of the trouser. See Fig. 4
Fox Doll - TROUSERS page 49 Fox Doll - TROUSERS page 50
SMALL BLACK LINES DENOTE

SEAM ALLOWANCES
CUT TWO
POCKET
LINING
WAIST EDGE WAIST EDGE
LEFT BACK FRONT EDGES RIGHT BACK

EDGE EDGE
leave a gap in the

D B A C
seam for the tail
pocket cut pocket cut
CUT ONE LEFT LEG CUT ONE RIGHT LEG
TROUSER INSIDE LEG EDGE

TROUSER INSIDE LEG EDGE
FOLD
FOLD
TROUSER HEM EDGE TROUSER HEM EDGE
WAISTBAND
WAISTBAND
SEAM EDGE
SEAM EDGE
FOLD
print at 100% CUT ONE WAISTBAND
FIG. 1 FIG. 2 OVER-SEW TO JOIN THE

MATCH THE POCKET LINING
OVER THE CUT YOU MADE FOR LINING TO THE WRONG SIDE
THE POCKET OF THE TROUSER MAKING
SURE THE STITCHES AREN’T
SEEN ON THE RIGHT SIDE
There is a quick video showing this detail here:
@dotpebbles_knits INSTAGRAM
FIG. 3 FIG. 4 NEATLY SEW THE WAISTBAND

RUN GATHERING STITCHES ALL
AROUND THE WAIST EDGE AND OVER THE GATHERED UP
PULL UP TO GATHER UNTIL WAIST EDGE - THE WAISTBAND
THE WAIST MEASURES THE SEAM SHOULD ALIGN WITH
SAME CIRCUMFERENCE AS THE THE TROUSER BACK SEAM
WAISTBAND
Remember to get in touch if you need a little extra advice
And of course, there is more, much more, to learn, create and be
inspired by here @dotpebbles_knits
Please also remember that this pattern, like all of my patterns, is copyrighted.
This prohibits copying or reproducing any of its writing content for your own profit.
However if you want to sell what you’ve made from any of my patterns then that is
perfectly fine - I actually encourage it and have an Instagram account
@imadethisrabbit_shop to promote you
reach out with #imadethisrabbit_shop
And please do share what you’ve created from this pattern:
#Dotpebbles_knits #dotpebblescreatureland

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Fox doll

For the shoes pictured please search Etsy

FINISHED SIZE 18cm/ 7in tall from feet to top of head

COLOURED MARKER GUIDE: SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS

BLUE HOLDING STITCHES FOR HIND LEGS p = purl

needle, knit the new stitch

Divide the Head Back to create Head Back Seam as follows:

NECK AND BACK F A

Row 1. Purl all 15 sts

Join Nose Seam

Join Muzzle Seam

Join the Belly Seam

Join the Tail Seam

WIRE THAT GOES THROUGH

CHIN POINT BELLY POINT

Join the Belly to Tail Seam

Join Chin to the Muzzle

HIND LEGS SLIP THESE LEFT HJND LEG STITCHES

Left Hind Leg

HIND LEG BACK

Join Left Hind Leg Seam

RIGHT HIND LEG

A Bit More About the Wires, continued...

FIG. 19 FIG. 19 (top) FIG. 20

Outer Ear, make 2 alike

With yarn A cast on 11 sts

Row 2. dec) K3, skpo, k1, k2tog, k3 – 9sts

Cut yarn A, join yarn C, continue as follows:

Rows 3, 5 & 7. Purl

Row 4. dec) K2, skpo, k1, k2tog, k2 – 7sts

Row 6. dec) K1, skpo, k1, k2tog, k1 – 5sts

Row 8. dec) Skpo, k1, k2tog – 3sts

Row 9. dec) P3tog – fasten off for Ear Point.

Cast off all 11 Inner Ear sts.

Join Inner Ear Seam

join the two halves together.

inside the outer ear.

Join Ears to the Head

Join Arm Seam

FOX FINGERS! Complete the Hand

Sweet sweater Yarn

Beginning at the Neck

Row 14. Purl

Row 16. Purl

kfb, k7, - 55sts

Rows 22-31. Work ten rows stocking stitch

MATERIALS cuts for the Pockets.

SMALL BLACK LINES DENOTE

WAIST EDGE WAIST EDGE

LEFT BACK FRONT EDGES RIGHT BACK

leave a gap in the

CUT ONE LEFT LEG CUT ONE RIGHT LEG

TROUSER INSIDE LEG EDGE

FIG. 1 FIG. 2 OVER-SEW TO JOIN THE

FIG. 3 FIG. 4 NEATLY SEW THE WAISTBAND

perfectly fine - I actually encourage it and have an Instagram account

@imadethisrabbit_shop to promote you

reach out with #imadethisrabbit_shop

And please do share what you’ve created from this pattern:

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