APRIL-MAY 2024• L150

8 ECO-
FRIENDLY
HOLIDAY IDEAS
PG.88

SPECIAL Uber-luxe
boutique resorts,
hidden retreats in
the wild, quaint
homestays with
quirky owners
and more

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TREADING TIGER MEMORABLE EXPLORING ECO-FRIENDLY

TERRITORY IN HOMESTAYS BALI'S TIMELESS TRAVEL & MORE IN
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TIPESHWAR IN SPITI TEMPLES OUR NEW SECTION

I T ’ S N O T W H E R E ——— I T ’ S H O W
CONTENTS APRIL > MAY
VOLUME 24 ISSUE 2

EXPLORE 38
38 / STAY LUXE
Shreya Cheema A PLACE
Six boutique resorts where comfort
meets luxury TO UNWIND
48 / THE LUSH WILD
Antaraa Chatterjee
The many charms of Maharashtra’s
Tipai Wildlife Luxuries
56 / WHERE THE HEART IS
Antaraa Chatterjee
Six homestay hosts share their stories
64 / A KONYAK HOME
Kartikeya Shankar
Experience culture and comfort
inside a Nagaland homestay

70 / GREEN RETREATS
Piyali Sen
Lesser-known ecolodges involved
with wildlife conservation
80 / WHITE WORLD
Ashish Kothari &
Shrishtee Bajpai
Through Spiti’s beautiful landscapes
and homestays
88 / IMMERSIVE INDIA
Nabiha Tasnim
Seeking unique, sustainable
experiences

COMPASS
18 / PATH TO DIVINITY

12
12 / SPRING IS COMING
Tracing Hindu temples in Bali
Waiting for spring in Sweden

14 / UPSIDE DOWN 24 / FROM THE PEAKS

Exploring the beauty of New Zealand OF LUXURY
A swanky stay in Sikkim’s
16 / WAYANAD PAST & Taj Guras Kutir Resort & Spa
PRESENT
Wayanad through the lens of writer 30 / OT PICKS
Anand Neelakantan The best in travel reads
COVER IMAGE: AMAYA, A SUSTAINABLE, LUXURY BOUTIQUE RESORT IN HIMACHAL PRADESH (PHOTOGRAPH: AMAYA)

AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 3
CONTENTS APRIL > MAY
EDITOR
ANINDITA GHOSH
EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR
ANJAN DAS
ASSISTANT EDITORS
KARTIKEYA SHANKAR
SHREYA CHEEMA
ANTARAA CHATTERJEE
SENIOR FEATURES WRITER
HIMAKSHI PANWAR
FEATURES REPORTER
EISHA GUPTA
JUNIOR FEATURES WRITER
WAQUAR HABIB
CONSULTING EDITOR
ANURADHA SENGUPTA (KOLKATA)
SOCIAL MEDIA HEAD
SHWETA ANDREWS
SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE
ROSELIN EKKA
PHOTO EDITOR
MANPREET ROMANA
DESIGN
ARIJIT DAS CHOUDHARY
ASHVIN CHITRODA
REHANA FARHAN SHAIKH
MAHANTHI KESHAV
ROHINA
SAAHIL BHATIA (ILLUSTRATOR)

Romulus Whitaker / 112 VINAY DOMINIC

Business Office
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
INDRANIL ROY

GREEN LIVING
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SUCHETANA RAY
PUBLISHER
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DIRECTOR - BRAND AND MARKETING

98 / SAVING THE SUMMITS The best of Indian Responsible Tourism SHRUTIKA DEWAN

Keeping the mountains clean, responsibly Awards 2024 CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION

SENIOR GENERAL MANAGER

112 / THE SNAKEMAN OF INDIA
100 / THE GUILE OF GREEN GAGAN KOHLI
Romulus Whitaker’s journey as a wildlife G. RAMESH (SOUTH)
How to not be misled by greenwashing
conservationist in India
KAPIL DHAL (NORTH)
ARUN KUMAR JHA (EAST)
MANOJ KAMBLE (WEST)
106 / FOR THE GREEN WARRIORS 122 / OT HALL OF FRAME
Production
GENERAL MANAGER
SHASHANK DIXIT

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Accounts
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4 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
Beauty Has An Address
#experienceoman

Escape to Oman and immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of its vast coastline. Embark on a journey
filled with thrilling water activities suitable for all age groups. From snorkeling in pristine waters with turtles
to adventurous boat rides, Oman offers an unforgettable aquatic experience. Discover the wonders of this
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Ministry of Heritage and Tourism | experienceoman.om

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 EDITOR’S LETTER FRONT

STAYS P
LANNING FOR A FAMILY VACATION CAN BE AN
onerous task. There are a hundred and one individual
preferences and quirks to be taken care of, and after

WITH SOUL
UXQQLQJWKURXJKKXQGUHGVRIGHVWLQDWLRQķLJKWDQGVWD\
RSWLRQV\RXUHDOLVHWKDWQRWUDYHOSODQĶWVDOO
But, perhaps we are trying too hard to “plan” our
vacations. We’re so used to our creature comforts and our need to be
meaningfully occupied that we forget holidays are meant to loosen up, let go
and allow ourselves to just be. Why does travel need to be planned to the last
detail? Why does everything have to be perfect? What is the point of escaping
from our mundane lives if we want everything to be as it always is, albeit in
fancier digs and a more exotic location?
In this issue, we’ve found some unique boutique resorts in stunning
locations where you can wallow in the high-end luxuries they offer,
explore the hikes, nature walks and other experiences, or simply soak in
the vibe and do nothing else. These luxe escapes, like Bari Kothi in West
Bengal and Sawantwadi Palace Boutique Art Hotel, are rich in history and
make for wonderful destinations. Antaraa Chatterjee took off to one such
getaway—Tipai Wildlife Luxuries—in Maharashtra’s Tipeshwar forest, and
came back with tales of pregnant tigers, waking up to forest sounds and
an unforgettable meal at chef Amninder Sandhu’s indigenous cuisine
restaurant, Palaash, at the property.
Half the fun of staying in a homestay is getting to know the people who
own it. In this issue, we reached out to families and individuals who shared
their stories of why they opened up their homes, from the Indo-Dutch
couple running a farm stay in Chennai to the four sisters who are the
Anindita Ghosh force behind a grand old family home in Ooty, to the conservationists and
ecologists who offer hospitality with a side of sustainability.
We’ve always been committed to responsible tourism at Outlook
Traveller. From this issue we have introduced a “Green Living” section to
talk about conscious travel, responsible choices and how we can lighten our
carbon footprint.
Happy reading!

H A L F T H E F U N O F S T AY I N G
I N A H O M E S T AY I S G E T T I N G
TO KNOW THE PEOPLE WHO
OWN IT AND HEARING
THEIR STORIES

Jan Mohammed Sait and wife Numaira Sait of The Kelso House (Pg 56)

Follow our social media handles: @oltraveller @Outlooktraveller @outlooktraveller

6 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 O OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
 H E R E,
T H E R E, N O W
& SOON

SWEDEN READIES FOR SPRING

DIVING DOWN UNDER

OF FIG TREES AND GHOSTS

LOOKING FOR GOD IN BALI

HEIGHTS OF LUXURY

OT PICKS: TRAVEL READS

A shot of
glaciologist
Phuntsho Tshering
on his expedition
 COMPASS

MOUNTAIN
MAN

GLACIOLOGIST PHUNTSHO
Tshering’s daughter, Yangchen, harbours
a childhood fear that her father’s
presence on the mountains of Bhutan
might anger the mythical Snow Lion,
the guardian spirit of these peaks. The
deeply religious country of Bhutan
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY: NATIONAL CENTRE FOR HYDROLOGY AND METEOROLOGY, BHUTAN

prohibits mountaineering as the summits

are considered sacred according to
local traditions. Tshering is Bhutan’s
sole sanctioned climber who leads his
team on month-long journeys high in

√दुआओं में याद रखना _

the sacred mountains to study remote
glaciers and lakes.
With climate change causing the
glaciers to melt and threatening the
people living below, Tshering’s daughter is
also slowly learning that climate change,
and not her father, is the actual danger
to the Snow Lion’s survival. Tshering,
who is deeply respectful of tradition,
VHDPOHVVO\LQWHJUDWHVVFLHQWLĶFPHWKRGV
with local rituals to assess environmental
threats and ensure his team’s safety in the
unforgiving terrain.
Tshering’s expedition has been documented
by Arun Bhattarai in the form of a short
documentary, “Mountain Man” (2022).
 REVEL WHERE LUXURY
MEETS RESPONSIBILITY
Explore the natural world
by embarking on a
luxury wildlife vacation
at Aahana Resort

O
ne of India's most sought-
after wildlife destinations
for nature enthusiasts,
Jim Corbett National Park
is renowned for its diverse wildlife
and attracts visitors from all over the
country and beyond. As one of the
oldest national parks in India, it offers
expansive vistas, abundant wildlife,
and fresh air. On your next visit to
the national park, you can discover The villa features two expansive living rooms alongside four bedrooms
a serene and peaceful stay amid
nature's beauty at Aahana Resort.
Rooted in rich family heritage, the
Tripathi family, owners of Aahana
Resort, stand as custodians to their
grandfather's legacy. Coming from a
family of freedom fighters, the owners
deeply connect to the region and its
people. Their passionate stewardship
ensures that Aahana provides a
luxurious experience and honours the
land and community it calls home.
In times where luxury often seems
at odds with sustainability, Aahana
Resort stands out as a remarkable
exception, combining high-end luxury
with environmentally conscious
practices. What began as a barren
patch of land has transformed into
a green oasis, boasting over 4500 The resort's proximity to the Bijrani Zone ensures guests can enjoy wildlife encounters
trees and nurturing over 200 species
of birds. Aahana's commitment to lovers and wildlife enthusiasts a your Victorian-style villas. Aahana
sustainability not only sets it apart haven. Bordering the Bijrani Zone of specializes in crafting unforgettable
but also serves as an inspiration for Jim Corbett National Park, guests experiences for families and friends
the hospitality industry. can immerse themselves in the to come together and create lasting
most exceptional and bespoke memories while travelling luxuriously.
A LUXE STAY IN THE LAP OF NATURE wildlife experiences. Witness the
Nestled within 13.5 acres of lush green wonders of the natural world and its THE SPACES
landscape, Aahana offers nature diverse species from the comfort of Step into the world of luxe living

Experience the realm of luxury living at Aahana's Pool Villas
at Aahana's Pool Villas. The four-
bedroom villas are located amid
the lush greenery of Jim Corbett
National Park. Unwind in the comfort
of your temperature-controlled
private pool while enjoying the
natural surroundings.
Aahana offers personalized
services, including a butler with
each villa, temperature-controlled
pools, tailored experiences for
friends and families, and customized
organic culinary delights. In their
new selection, you will find one
unique Family Pool Villa boasting
two spacious living rooms along
with four bedrooms. Each villa also
includes additional rooms adjacent
to the Pool Villas, designated for
domestic help, prioritizing privacy and
convenience for you.
SUSTAINABLE INITIATIVES
Aahana is an award-winning pioneer
in luxury and sustainability, setting
industry standards with its innovative
initiatives. Embracing the local
community, 95 per cent originates
from nearby villages or the region.
Their culinary ethos celebrates fresh
seasonal produce and regional
flavours, promoting sustainability
through an organic farm-to-
fork approach.
Aahana also leads the way in
wastewater recycling and 100 per
cent water reclamation through one
of Asia's largest rootzone treatment
plants. This plant requires no
energy and is powered by Canna
Plants, which ensure chemical-free
purification. This clean, mineral-
rich water is later used to nourish
their gardens.
EXPERIENCES AT AAHANA
Aahana crafts extraordinary
experiences that escape everyday
life, creating your fondest memories
in the most special places in Jim
Corbett. Some of their unique
adventures are bird-watching tours,
TRAVEL PROMOTION
wildlife safaris, and scenic drives.
There are a lot of ways Aahana
can make your stay memorable.
Celebrate time with your family on
the Shivalik Mountain drive, which
takes you through the beautiful forest
of Jim Corbett. On a clear day, we
even surprise you with gorgeous
views of Trishul and Nanda Devi
mountain peaks, and you can sip
adrak chai.
You can also sign up for in-house
birding tours with their naturalist, or
if you're feeling adventurous, go on
a picturesque picnic on the banks of
the Ramganga River and enjoy meals
with lovely views of the countryside.
THE INFORMATION
Address: Village Sawaldeh, PO
Semalkhaliya, Jim Corbett National
Park, Ramnagar Nainital
Website: aahanaresort.com
For reservations: Call +91-
7088600024 or email bookings@
aahanaresort.com
 MAN IN EUROPE C O M PAS S
WAITING FOR SPRING
T
HE TREES ARE STILL
OHDķHVVWKHDLUDULGDQGFROG
the skies grey. Sweden is still
waiting for spring to arrive. I
have often been asked what my
favourite season is. Invariably,
I have answered it to be autumn. They look
at me surprised. Who in their right mind
likes the impending dullness that autumn
hints towards? Well, I do. Apart from the
rusty colours of fallen leaves,
I prefer the softness that
autumn leads to. Streets start
becoming empty; the summer
cheeriness begins to melt into
a gentle quietude, and senses
fold inward from the outward
summer onslaught.
This time, though, having
enjoyed the autumn, I had
enough of the dark winter
that followed. There was little
snow on the streets, even less of
the sun. Though expected of a
Nordic winter, I felt something
shifting inside me. I am looking
forward not only to the sun but
also to a hint of colour to appear.
So far, it has failed to manifest,
even on the streets of Malmö, where I live, and
one of the southernmost cities in Sweden.
People wear greys and blacks, blending into
the immediate surroundings. The trees remain
OHDķHVVVWDQGLQJOLNHFDUGERDUGFXWRXWV
The streets remain largely unoccupied, with
everyone keeping indoors.
“Why not travel to a warmer, more colourful
place to escape this depressing hole?” asked
a friend when I shared my exasperation. Yes,
travel is a means to escape. Why do we travel?
Some would say to learn something new,
12
NITIN CHAUDHARY
experience a different context and grow. Or,
to escape the reality, the everyday tedium. I
had always looked at travel as a time machine
that would take you to worlds different from
your own. The cultural transformation that
a plane journey could bring in a matter of
hours is perhaps the biggest of the inventions
of the modern world. Within hours, one can
travel from the luxuries of Europe to the
harshness of sub-Saharan Africa, from the
A hint of spring. Illustration by author
tropical summer to the harsh winter, from
the seaside to the snow-clad mountains. And
with this context change comes a learning
experience. We grow by experiencing the
world differently, and each journey becomes a
learning expedition.
This time, though, I considered travel
as a means to escape. I searched online
endlessly for warmer places where spring
had arrived. I aimed to travel southwards
to Italy, where temperatures were hovering
in the mid-twenties, and the bushes have
O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
started gathering colour. I am not one to
run away. Or so I had thought. But here I am,
meticulously planning an escape. Before
H[SORULQJLWVJDUGHQV,ERRNHGDķLJKW
to Naples and dreamed of searching the
streets for outdoor cafes. The thought alone
brought me happiness. This time, my travel is
driven not by any learning—I wasn’t looking
forward to studying Italian culture, visiting
museums as usual, or talking to the locals to
understand what makes them
love their city.
I plan to be outside and
forget about the winter back
home, even if for a few days.
The thought is unsettling,
though. Have I become
less of a learner? Or was I
always a travel snob, and
this Swedish winter has
cracked that reassuring
persona I had cultivated in
my mind? Have I changed
from being a discoverer to
an escapist? I wondered.
Condescension is less spoken
of as a characteristic of
those of us who claim to be
travellers. The reality is that
we are all no different; we are all searching for
experiences. Sometimes, we grab these travels
and accompanying experiences as learning
journeys and at other times, these are but
ways to run away.
Isn’t it time that I drop the pride I carry?
As I write these words, I look outside the
window. The skies are still grey, and the wind
still screams outside. There is no hint of
spring. And I await it. While it’s still a distant
UHDOLW\KHUH,ZLOOKRSRQWRDSODQHDQGĶQGLW
elsewhere. That thought comforts me.
 WHEELING SOLO C O M PAS S
COROMANDEL BLUES
I
'VE SPENT THE LAST SIX
weeks upside down. Well, that's
only if you believe that the
world is indeed spherical. A
few months ago, it struck me
that most of my travel has been
restricted to the Northern Hemisphere. This
was neither intentional nor surprising, given
the lay of the land in the world as we know it.
But, having realised this somewhat random
fact, I had two options—either shrug it off as
nothing more than interesting or, well…
New Zealand, they say, is the last landmass
WKDWKDVEHHQVLJQLĶFDQWO\LQKDELWHGLQWKH
Southern Hemisphere. If the infotainment
VFUHHQVRQP\ķLJKWWR$XFNODQGKDGEHHQ
working, I might have been able to tell
you how I spent hours staring at the blip
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
An aerial view of a beach in Coromandel, New Zealand
14
ROHITH ASHOK
RQWKHķLJKWWUDFNHURQWKHORQJMRXUQH\
Instead, I can tell you that I tried checking if
it worked not less than 54 times before we
ĶQally landed!
Fortunately, things went a lot better after
WKDWDQG,FDQFRQĶUPWKDW1HZ=HDODQGLV
quite breathtaking. The largest cities I saw
were quite small, and the smallest lakes
and forests were large—which is how things
should be if you ask me.
The people I met were eclectic and diverse
EVERYBODY COMES TO
THE COROMANDEL TO
FIND HAPPINESS, WHICH
I T D E L I V E R S W I L L I N G LY
O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
but common in their enthusiasm for the
outdoors and the smaller pleasures of life.
But, more importantly, nearly every corner
of the country—as well as the middle and its
other parts—is an absolute treat to the eyes.
,W VKDUGWRFKRRVHDĶUVWWLPHIDYRXULWH
experience, but driving in the Coromandel
—along the northeastern shores of New
Zealand's North Island—was one of the
highlights. One would imagine that when
\RX UHRQDQLVODQG\RX UHXQOLNHO\WRĶQG
RQHVSHFLĶFSODFHZKHUHWKHRFHDQLVPRUH
noteworthy than anywhere else, but the
colours you see as you traverse this part of
New Zealand are in a league of their own.
The summer months are precious in this
part of the world, and the Coromandel is
where most of the North Island goes to play.
Fortunately, even a crowded day on a beach
proved to be more like a pleasant gathering
of like-minded people. I sat back and took
in the view as surfers, sailors, and power
boaters carved their own elegant paths
across the water, and hobby pilots showed off
their moves in the sky. One thing was clear:
HYHU\ERG\FRPHVWRWKH&RURPDQGHOWRĶQG
happiness, which it delivers willingly.
$SDUWIURPDSHUVRQDODIĶQLW\WRWKH
name—since I grew up and lived by the sea
on India's Coromandel Coast—I was quite
taken by its pristine beaches, towering
kauri forests, beautiful winding roads and
captivating coastal vistas. It's vibrant and
alive in a very New Zealand way, which
makes it quite different from the many other
beautiful parts of the country. And then, of
course, there are those brilliantly wonderful
Coromandel Blues!
 COLUMN
THE CURIOUS CASE
OF A GHOST GUIDE
T
HE INVIGORATING SCENT OF
the spices still wafts through
the air, mingling with the
earthy aroma of rain-soaked
soil and the sweet fragrance of
blossoming coffee blooms. The
smell of coffee blooms can rival jasmines
or honey locks. This quaint hill station is
unusually hot. Temperatures are touching 28
degrees in summer, something unheard of
in these parts. I am on my usual sojourn to
Wayanad. I set my eyes on this beautiful slice
RIHDUWKIRUWKHĶUVWWLPHDVDER\RIWHQ,VWLOO
UHPHPEHUP\ĶUVWYLVLWZLWKP\VLVWHU,ZDV
accompanying her to her husband's home.
My brother-in-law's family had dwelled in
this place for three centuries. They lived amid
a coffee plantation, and for a person born and
raised in the coastal city of Cochin, this new
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
Love lake at Chembra Peak, Wayanad
ANAND NEELAKANTAN
home was a magical world for my sister. It was
ORYHDWĶUVWVLJKW,GHFLGHGWRRZQDSLHFHRI
this paradise then, but it took me another 23
years to achieve it. I have my own home here
now, nestled in the valley of the towering
Chembra Peak, and this is where I come every
month to write my stories.
Thirteen of my 16 novels were written
here, and most of my screenplays, too. There
is something magical about this place. It
has changed a lot in the last 40 years since
,VDZLWĶUVW*RQHLVWKHSRZGHU\UDLQWKDW
drizzles for days, replaced by sudden, furious
downpours that drench the undulating
landscape in minutes. Summers are hot now,
and fans and air conditioners have slowly
come to homes. The quaint thatched roofs
of houses are now substituted with modern
concrete ones. Yet, as I sit, peering out of my
16 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
writing corner on to the shifting tableau of
the moody Wayanad valley below, the spirit of
the place remains untouched.
The coffee blossoms continue to bloom,
their intoxicating scent luring bees and
EXWWHUķLHVLQGURYHVMXVWDVWKH\GLGDOO
those years ago. The small, bustling town of
Kalpetta has metamorphosed into a thriving
city, its streets echoing with rambunctious
laughter and lively chatter of tourists from
Bangalore or Chennai. But up here in the
hills overlooking the valley, time seems to
have paused. There's a tranquillity here that
hasn't dissipated, a stolid constancy that
refuses to bow to the upheavals of modern
progress. The ink in my pen is drawn towards
paper more than ever, inspired by the call
of whistling thrushes during daybreak and
lulled by the rhythmic symphony of crickets
under the moonlit sky at night. My stories are
from these tranquil days and serene nights;
this enchanting harmony between nature
and me proves fertile soil for my creativity.
What has not died in this ancient land are the
lores and legends. There are a dozen tourist
places in Wayanad, with the usual hill station
lakes, boating, safari and waterfalls, but I love
visiting a roadside tree most.
One can see it as soon as the vehicle enters
the district after negotiating the hairpin
bends from the plains of Calicut. Look to
\RXUOHIWDQG\RXZLOOĶQGDFKDLQHGWUHH
a burning oil lamp and sometimes, a lone
traveller or a tribal woman praying before
it. If you are in a hurry, you may miss it too.
These places are to be taken slowly and in
small slices. Stop by the roadside and ask for
the Karinthandan tree. If you are lucky, you

The columnist's writing cottage in Wayanad
may get a garrulous local who will tell you
the story about the ghost chained to this
DQFLHQWĶJWUHHLQEURNHQ(QJOLVKRU+LQGL
The tale goes that Karinthandan, a tribal
\RXWKZDVWKHĶUVWWRGLVFRYHUWKHKLGGHQ
trails of Wayanad. While establishing their
rule in India, the British came to his tribe
with promises of riches and prosperity.
They enticed Karinthandan to show them
the riches of the verdant forests and the
abundant wildlife. After he shared all his
knowledge and secrets, the treacherous
foreigners killed him. Legend claims that his
spirit still roams these trails, lost, betrayed
and wrathful, causing harm to any who dare
tread on his paths.
People claim to hear eerie whispers and
feel an unsettling chill even in broad daylight
YET THIS SPECTRAL
FIGURE HAS NEVER
T E R R I F I E D M E ; I H AV E
FOUND SOLACE IN
SHARING STORIES WITH IT
QHDUWKLVFKDLQHGWUHH<HWWKLVVSHFWUDOĶJXUH
KDVQHYHUWHUULĶHGPH,KDYHIRXQGVRODFHLQ
sharing stories with it. I am unsure if I believe
in ghosts, but Karinthandan's legend is more
WKDQDJKRVWVWRU\IRUPH,WLVDUHķHFWLRQRI
human greed and exploitation; it mirrors our
colonial past, where native populations were
ruthlessly exploited for their knowledge, only
to be discarded later. The tree stands tall, an
embodiment of ancient wisdom fused with a
tale of betrayal. Every time I pass by, I stop, pay
my respects to the spirit that is said to languish
here, and share the stories I am crafting with it.
The rustle of leaves in response seems like his
approval, his blessing for my tales.
As the years pass and the landscape of
Wayanad changes, it only adds layers to
my stories. Every new coffee shop that
opens in town, every old bridge that falls to
ruin—they're all part of the rich tapestry of
this place that fuels my imagination. But
as time marches on relentlessly, a nagging
thought niggles at the back of my mind. Will
Wayanad lose its soul to the relentless tide of
modernity? Will concrete buildings replace
the coffee plantations, and will technology
drown out the call of the thrushes? With a
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 17
C O M PAS S
The Karinthandan
tree whispers
tales of a
ghostly past
VLJK,UHPHPEHUP\ĶUVWYLVLWWRWKLVSODFH,
see my sister smiling brightly beside her new
husband, and I stand beside them, a wide-
eyed little boy enchanted by the lush hills.
As much as things have changed since then,
I realise a lot has remained the same, too.
Despite all its transitions, this hill station has
retained its inherent charm and mystique.
This sleepy little place had changed the
history of the world. But even as the political
climate heats up, life goes on in Wayanad.
Farmers still tend to their spice gardens
under the watchful gaze of mighty elephants
that roam freely in this part of Kerala. Women
move with grace and agility through the
WHDSODQWDWLRQVWKHLUĶQJHUVSOXFNLQJWHD
leaves with practised ease. Children play
near shimmering waterfalls, their innocent
laughter resonating through the hills. And
the lores and legends live on. Ghosts continue
their charming and graceful journey,
riding the gentle breeze that whispers the
ancient stories into the ears of those who
choose to listen.
Anand Neelakantan is a bestselling author
of 17 books, doubling as a columnist,
screenwriter, and public speaker
 INDONESIA

Perched on a
rocky headland,
Pura Batu Bolong
is one of Indonesia's
most scenic
Hindu temples

PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES

 OT JOURNEYS

Embracing Balinese
aesthetics, the
Handara Gate
mirrors the grandeur
of a temple entrance

THE ALLURE OF THIS

ISLAND LIES IN ITS
PEOPLE AND THE
CULTURE IT EMBODIES

Words ¤ SANTOSH OJHA

T
IRED AFTER HIS STRENUOUS
journey along the south coast
of Bali, Dang Hyang Nirartha
spotted a rock a little away from
the shore. He lay down to rest.
Lulled by the breeze and the
lapping of the waves, he fell
asleep. In his dream, Nirartha,
the revered 16th-century Shaivite priest, saw
DWHPSOHRQWKHURFN7KHORFDOĶVKHUPHQ
who had turned up in the morning with
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

refreshments dutifully followed instructions

and translated his epiphany into reality.
We walk from the car park to the cliff facing
Pura Tanah Lot. The top of the pelinggih meru,
a pagoda-like tiered structure emblematic
of Balinese Hindu temples, is visible above
the foliage on the rock. It is high tide, and the
WHPSOHVHHPVWREHķRDWLQJRQWKHZDWHU

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 19
 INDONESIA
This temple is one of the seven temples
built along the island's southeast coast,
forming a protective chain against malevolent
forces. A mythical sea snake formed from
Nirartha's sash is said to protect the temple.
Dewa Baruna, or Varun, the God of the seas, is
the temple's presiding deity.
As we shift our gaze to our right, Pura Batu
Bolong comes into view. Like its more famed
counterpart, this temple, too, is located in the
sea on a rocky outcrop. The rock's allure is
PDJQLĶHGE\DQDWXUDODUFKZD\FDUYHGRYHU
centuries by waves and the wind.
Balinese Hindu temples allow entry only to
Balinese worshippers who are correctly attired,
and these temples are no exception.
Walking back from the temples, I spot a box
prominently displayed on the pathway. It is
labelled "Donation" with "Dana Punia" below
it. Sounds familiar?
Å Without waiting for an answer, he says, "Six".
Two thousand years ago, sailors, merchants,
and mendicants from India sailed to distant
lands, spreading Hindu philosophy and later
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is a significant Shaivite temple on Lake Bratan's shores
Buddhism. These religions dominated the
Indonesian archipelago till the advent of Islam
in the 14th century. Many converted to Islam
while some moved eastwards to Bali island,
where over 90 per cent of the population is
Hindu. Over the centuries, it blended with the
local animist and ancestral worship beliefs, to
create a unique form of Balinese Hinduism.
Å "That's called a Caturmuka (Chaturmukha, in
"How many temples does Bali have?" I ask
Nyoman, our driver-cum-guide. We were
driving to another temple in the Balinese
highlands, far north of the coast.
He mulls over my question.
"Maybe 10,000 temples? Maybe a hundred
thousand? No one has a count, but you will
ĶQGDWHPSOHZKHUHYHU\RXWXUQ\RXUJD]H
Nyoman smiles and asks me, "How many
temples do you think are in my house in
Banjar village?"
Noticing my incredulous look in the
UHDUYLHZPLUURUKHĶQGVDYLGHRRQKLVSKRQH
and shows it to me. I count six temples neatly
20 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
lined along the walls of his house's compound.
Travelling around this tiny island for the
past few days, I am aware of this. Each house
and every village has a temple and there are
shrines in every nook and corner.
"See that temple ahead?" Nyoman gestured,
pointing to a pillar-like shrine hewn out of
lava rock in the middle of a crossroad.
Sanskrit, or four-faced). It blesses travellers in
all four directions."
Å
The atmosphere is ethereal as we wind up
the road to the highlands. A hint of rain is
in the air, and wisps of clouds swirl around
XVZLWKSRFNHWVRIULFHĶHOGVDPLGWKHOXVK
green vegetation. Once atop the plateau, we
drive along the seemingly never-ending Lake
Beratan—the second biggest on the island—
before we reach Pura Ulun Danu. This 16th-
century temple is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the
Goddess of water, lakes and rivers.
It is raining hard now; even the large
umbrella the driver thoughtfully offers fails to
 OT JOURNEYS

protect me as I step outside the car.

PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES

Down the paved path, I spot the candi bentar,
a split gateway characteristic of Balinese
temples. Candi bentar symbolises a mountain
split into two, a portal that connects the
physical and spiritual worlds. A cluster of
pelinggeh merus—with 11 tiers—soars above
through the veil of rain. They are devoted to
Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma.
Å
Sixty kilometres south, we return to Peppers
Seminyak, our haven of luxury after the long
and strenuous drive and the hustle and bustle
of the neighbouring touristy Petitenget
beach. Walking to our villa, we encounter a
white-clad lady, Ibu Agung, who has come
to make offerings at Pura Sumur Kembar, a
temple within the resort premises, right next
to our villa. Canang sari, small square bowls
fashioned out of palm leaves, are piled onto
her basket. Each contains leaves, colourful Balinese Hindus carrying offerings during the Melasti ceremony at the Pura Ulun Danu Beratan

ķRZHUVVZHHWVDQGHYHQFLJDUHWWHV$QGHDFK
component of the offering is imbued with
GHHSVSLULWXDOVLJQLĶFDQFH
Krishna, a resort executive, says Ibu belongs
to the local community, who relinquished
WKHLUULFHĶHOGVIRUWKHUHVRUW+RZHYHUWKH
community still cares for the two temples on
the resort premises.
Pura Sumur Kembar, or the temple of the
twin wells, dates to the 16th century. Ibu
Agung steps into the temple courtyard and
places the canang sari near the holy wells, the
main shrine and the corners of the temple
courtyard. She then lights up dupa- incense
sticks ("dhoop"), sending spirals of fragrant
smoke to the heavens.
Å had to console themselves by leaving them
At Pura Besakih, a complex of 23 temples on
the slopes of Mount Agung, Nyoman wraps
a sarong around my legs to prepare me for
my temple visit. He marches me along the
walkway to the base of the main temple in the
complex, Pura Penataran Agung.
,FOLPEDVWHHSķLJKWRIVWDLUVWRWKHWDOO
impressive candi bentar. On either side
are statues inspired by the Ramayana and
Mahabharata. I am only allowed to peer inside
the temple complex from the candi bentar.
We climb down and make our way to the
Shiva temple. Nyoman hoists me up a tall
mound near the temple wall to observe
the activities there. There are a handful of
worshippers braving the drizzle and making
offerings at the various shrines inside.
I spot canang sari placed on the wall. "These
D O W N T H E PA T H , I S P O T
THE CANDI BENTAR, A
S P L I T G A T E WAY T H A T
SYMBOLISES A MOUNTAIN
DIVIDED INTO TWO—A
PORTAL THAT CONNECTS
THE PHYSICAL AND
SPIRITUAL WORLDS
have been placed by unfortunate foreigners
who bought offerings for the temple but
behind here."
The Brahma temple is closed to all; Nyoman
informs me that it opens only a few days a year
IRUVRPHVSHFLĶFFHUHPRQLHV
It is raining hard as we reach Pura Bati
Madeg, the Vishnu temple. We take shelter
under the roof of a square platform at the
corner of the temple courtyard.
"Let's just wait out the storm," he says. From
the corner of my eye, I spot the temple priest
on a platform across the courtyard. If he has
spotted me, he says nothing; he is enjoying his
VPRNH$FURVVWKHFRXUW\DUG,VHHĶYHmerus of
different heights. I am too wet even to ask who
they were dedicated to.
On our way out of the complex we cross
Pura Penataran Agung again. The rains have
abated. The wrought iron side gate is open, and
I can see the temple's central courtyard alive
with activity. A bold sign proclaims in Bahasa,
"Dilarang Masuk," do not enter, for prayer only.
I see colourful parasols—yellow, red and
black. "Yellow is for the wind God, Shiva",
explains Nyoman with his usual zeal.
5HGLVIRUĶUHRU%UDKPDDQGWKDWEODFNRQH
is for the water God, Vishnu."
Before I can even grasp this information,
Nyoman snatches my phone and gallops into
the depths of the courtyard. He emerges after a
few minutes, breathless but with a broad smile.
"I am sorry you could not get up close with
the proceedings inside, but your phone did.
Here, I have taken many photos inside to give
you a good idea of the ceremonies. Now, shall
we move on?"
Back at my villa in Pepper Seminyak, I
browse through the images Nyoman has
taken. The colourful parasols in the temple
courtyard in the backdrop of tall pagoda-like
multi-tiered merusWKHLUUHķHFWLRQVRQWKH
ZHWFRXUW\DUGķRRUDQGWKHPXOWLFRORXUHG
umbrellas of the worshippers form a
kaleidoscope of images.
Our temple trail in Bali concludes, but
the memories linger in the silence of the
ancient stones and the whispers of the sea.
Bali's temples, from the dramatic Tanah
Lot to the tranquil Ulun Danu and even the
relatively small Sumur Kembar, are more
than just destinations; they are timeless
keepers of myths, inviting us to return,
explore, and dream.

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 21
UNTAMED BEAUTY:
WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES
OF TAMIL NADU
Beyond the cultural landmarks and scenic
landscapes of Tamil Nadu lie another treasure
trove—its diverse wildlife sanctuaries
T
amil Nadu, a picturesque
State lodged in the southern
part of India, is renowned for
its blend of cultural heritage
and ancient landmarks. However,
this region also boasts a remarkable
array of wildlife, making it a haven
for nature enthusiasts and those
passionate about conservation. Tamil
Nadu is indeed home to 18 wildlife
sanctuaries where nature truly gets to
be itself, preserving and safeguarding
the region's unique Єora and fauna.
Here's a glimpse at some of them.
VANDALUR ZOO
Situated in the heart of Chennai,
Arignar Anna Zoological Park, also
known as Vandalur Zoo, is the abode
of various animals, including lions,
monkeys, elephants and deer.
Safari Parks, Exotic Birds, Walk
Through Aviary, Biocentre, Forest
Museum, ButterЄy Park, Aquarium,
Children's Park, Nocturnal Animal
House, Forest Birds, Reptile Session,
and Wetland Aviary.
• Getting there: The zoo is 6 km from
Tambaram, 4 km from Mudichur,
and about 15 km from Chennai
Airport.
Here, you can embark on a safari
to observe animals in their natural
SRIVILLIPUTHUR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
element. The park also features a
The Srivilliputhur Wildlife Sanctuary,
modern reptile house showcasing
also known as the Grizzled Squirrel
various snakes, lizards, and
Wildlife Sanctuary, is a vast expanse
crocodiles. In addition to the wildlife,
of 485.2 sq. km between the Andipatti
it offers family-friendly amenities
Hills and the Tirunelveli district. It was
such as playgrounds and picnic
established with a noble purpose—to
spots. Finally, for bird enthusiasts,
protect the endangered grizzled giant
the zoo boasts an aviary that houses
squirrel. This sanctuary also shelters
tropical birds and an aquarium that
diverse wildlife, including elephants,
showcases marine life.
leopards, Nilgiri tahr, and the elusive
• Visiting hours: The zoo operates
lion-tailed macaques. You might even
from 9 am to 5 pm every day
glimpse the mysterious sloth bear,
except Tuesday, with ticket booking
which often evades human sight.
concluding at 4.30 pm.
Bird lovers will Ѓnd themselves
• Entry cost: The ticket prices are INR
in paradise here, as the sanctuary
200 for adults above 12 years, INR 50
has various avian species, such as
for children aged 5 to 12, and free
the white-backed vulture, great
for infants between 0 and 5 years.
pied hornbill, and Nilgiri Єycatcher.
• Special attractions: Lion and Deer

Additionally, it has a dedicated
conservation area for medicinal
plants, highlighting its ecological
signiЃcance.
• Best time to visit: Year round
• Getting there: Located
approximately 100 km from
Madurai, this sanctuary is
accessible by buses from Madurai
and Tirunelveli. The nearest railway
station and airport are in Madurai.
SATYAMANGALAM TIGER RESERVE
Situated 88 kilometres from the
bustling city of Coimbatore, the
Satyamangalam Tiger Reserve is a
favourite among nature enthusiasts
and wildlife lovers. With its dense
forests and abundant prey, it provides
an ideal habitat for the majestic
creatures. However, tigers are not the
only inhabitants of this sanctuary.
The reserve also has other wildlife,
including elephants, gaur, blackbuck,
four-horned antelope, leopards,
hyenas, and wild dogs.
What makes the journey to
this biodiverse haven even more
tempting is the route that tourists
must take. To reach here, one must
embark on the Sathyamangalam-
Dhimbum ghat road. This road,
known for its 27 hairpin bends, offers
an exhilarating drive through the
picturesque landscape.
• Best time to visit: October to March
• Getting there: Sathyamangalam
Tiger Reserve is reached through
Coimbatore Airport, which is
around 105km away
MUDUMALAI NATIONAL PARK
This biodiversity hub in the State's
western region was the Ѓrst
Sanctuary to be set up in India and
shares borders with Kerala and
Karnataka, making it an integral part
of the expansive Nilgiri Biosphere
Reserve. This area encompasses a
rich variety of Єora, spanning from
tropical evergreen to teak forests,
along with grasslands and swamps.
You could be fortunate enough
to witness elephants, tigers, gaurs,
and leopards mingling with a vibrant
assembly of birds and a diverse array
of aquatic and terrestrial creatures.
Opting for dressing in muted colours
during your safari is a simple yet
effective way to heighten the pleasure
of the journey.
• Best time to visit: October to
February
• Getting there: Mudumalai National
Park is easily accessible by air, with
Coimbatore International Airport
being the closest at 160 km. The
Ooty railway station, situated 60 km
away, offers train connectivity, and
the park is well-connected by road.
GULF OF MANNAR MARINE NATIONAL
PARK
Situated along the Coromandel coast,
this park boasts the title of being the
inaugural marine biosphere reserve in
South Asia. Consisting of 21 islands, it
offers a spectacular sight of estuaries,
beaches, and mudЄats, adding to the
area's natural allure.
In addition to its land features, the
park has a diverse array of marine
life. From algae communities to
sea grasses and coral reefs to salt
marshes and mangroves, these
components work harmoniously to
form a thriving ecosystem where
approximately 3600 plant and animal
species have been identiЃed. The
national park is also home to a range
of marine life, including Ѓve distinct
species of turtles, dolphins, whales, sea
cucumbers, and dugongs.
• Best time to visit: October to March
• Getting there: Access to the park
is limited to glass-bottomed
boat rides, which are offered at
Mandapam and Rameswaram.
TRAVEL PROMOTION
The nearest airport is Madurai
International Airport, approximately
150 km away, and Rameswaram
Railway Station, about 7 km away
ANAMALAI TIGER RESERVE
This reserve, also known as Indira
Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary and
National Park, is home to the majestic
Bengal tiger and provides a safe
abode for numerous other intriguing
species. Among these are elephants
leopards, gaurs, Nilgiri langurs, and
Malabar spiny dormouse.
Furthermore, the reserve's avian
population is also remarkable, from
the elegant cormorants and teals
to the charming ducks, quails, and
jungle fowls. Finally, it also lodges
various amphibians and reptiles, such
as snakes, lizards, frogs, and turtles.
• Best time to visit: December to April
• Getting there: Pollachi Bus Stand
is approximately 24 km from the
Anamalai Tiger Reserve Entry
Check Post, while Coimbatore
International Airport is 75 km away.
Additionally, Pollachi Railway
Station is about 25 km away.
CAUVERY SOUTH WILDLIFE
SANCTUARY
Spanning 686.406 square kilometres
in the districts of Krishnagiri and
Dharmapuri, this sanctuary is not
merely an extensive stretch of land. It
serves as a sanctuary for elephants
and plays a vital role as a lifeline for
numerous riverine species reliant on
the Cauvery River.
For nature enthusiasts and animal
lovers, this sanctuary is a true
paradise, hosting a diverse array of
captivating species, including the
elusive Leith's soft-shelled turtles,
the majestic grizzled giant squirrel,
the sleek smooth-coated otter, the
old marsh crocodile, and the regal
lesser Ѓsh eagle. A world of wonder
awaits around every bend in this
sanctuary, ready for you to explore
and appreciate.
• Best time to visit: October to March
• Getting there: The nearest railway
station is Dharmapuri, located 132
km away, while the closest airport is
Bangalore, at a distance of 145 km.
 SIKKIM

T
HE LOW HARMONIC ONLY THE SNOW-CLAD
hum from the monk PEAKS ARE MISSING
reverberates through the The Kanchenjunga remains elusive
air as the sunset covers throughout my stay. I catch glimpses of it—in
the mountains with the striking black-and-white photographs
GDUNQHVV&DQGOHVķLFNHU on the walls. The ever-helpful staff show
against gilded paintings me the mountain on their phones—various
on the walls, and incense photos and videos, shot in the day in brilliant
wafts from burners. People cluster around sunshine and on moonlit nights when the
as the lamp is lit and prayers are offered peaks have a mythical aura. The buzzy vibes of
to Kanchenjunga, a powerful force in local Gangtok with its electric music scene, hipster
culture. I sink deep into the lounge chair as cafes, and stunning monasteries have attracted
the butter lamp lighting ceremony at the Taj many a traveller. However, accommodation
Guras Kutir Resort & Spa helps to melt away options have tended to be on the conservative
fatigue and kinks—a result of the drive from side, with limited luxe stay options. Named
the Bagdogra airport. after the vibrantly coloured rhododendrons
Outside, a stiff wind makes the trees found in the region, the Taj Guras Kutir
rustle under the starlight early evening. The Resort & Spa is a notable addition. The luxury
subtly lit lounge has windows and doors mountain resort, with its serene and subtle
overlooking the mountain ranges. People spaces and design-centric rooms and suites,
sip drinks, read books, and talk, surrounded is a perfect foil to the dramatic ranges of the
by classic woodwork panelling and décor Eastern Himalayas and the canopied forests of
that exudes an air of luxurious minimalism Pangthang in Gangtok.
while scattered objets d’art provide "The highlight of the project's setting within
plenty of character. this location are the stunning views of the
These guys understand what it takes to YDOOH\VDQGWKHPDJQLĶFHQW+LPDOD\DQUDQJH
create atmosphere, I think. It reminds me as well as its remote location in a beautiful
of a scene from an Agatha Christie novel set forest," says Ankur Choksi, Principal and Co-
in a ski resort. )RXQGHURI6WXGLR/RWXVDQDUFKLWHFWXUDOĶUP

I N

DISCOVER HIGH-ALTITUDE LUXURY AT THE TAJ GURAS KUTIR RESORT & SPA WITH
ITS DESIGN-CENTRIC SPACES, INDULGENT AMENITIES, AND JAW-DROPPING
VIEWS OF THE MAJESTIC KANCHENJUNGA

Words ¤ PIYALI SEN

24 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 S TAY

The resort's
design focusses
on serenity, while
the menus follow
a farm-to-table
approach

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 25
 SIKKIM

that designed the resort. "Our approach had

to integrate this sense of connection to nature
and yet create a comforting and cocooned
interior experience for the guests, to bring
relief from the sometimes harsh weather
outdoors." The beauty of the setting is revealed
from all levels of the main building on the
Northern side, where one arrives.
"To create a sense of reveal and respite
from the long journey, a light timber pavilion
creates a preamble to the main building.
Acting as the guest reception area, it leads
into a meditative courtyard that allows you to
transition into the hotel's warm, cosy interior
spaces that further open up to spectacular
vistas of the mountains at the far end," he says.

RHODODENDRON TRAILS
The next day I wake up early at sunrise to get
a dekko, but it’s a no-show again, though the
views of other mountain ranges more than
make up for it. The rising sun rays light up the
JUHHQIRUHVWVDVZKLWHFORXGVķRDWLQZLVS\
tendrils, casting moving shadows. My wood-
panelled room has beautiful ceiling-high
windows with mountain views and a window
alcove with cushions to enjoy the view.
The resort offers an indulgent breakfast
buffet with options ranging from local dishes
to continental and some fare from other parts
of India. I opt for healthy hiking fuel with a
plain millet dosa, some sliced fruits, and a
cold cuts and cheese platter (Monterey Jack,
cheddar, feta, with prunes, olives, pickled
onions). They also serve freshly made "hot"
items like dosas, alu sabzi with puri, chole
bhature, eggs, etc, which are made to order. and smashes it with a stone. Inside is a small a cluster of fern-like leaves, which have anti-
I had heard about the local avocado, pumsi, nut. This is kattus, a wild chestnut, he says microbial and anti-fungal properties. Chhetri
and asked to sample a salad. But the fruit, holding it out. Like many trees in India, the says it was used during the pandemic; people
unfortunately, was not in season. kattus and its parts have multiple uses. The would burn it as they believe the smoke has
The sun casts shadows on the forest path wood is used to make windows, doors, and purifying properties. We come across several
as I take a walk around the nearby forest on furniture. And kattus leaves are used for slender trees, called utis. These are used to
a nature trail with Apil Chhetri, an informed growing orchids. We also encounter wild make doors and windows, and for erosion
guide. I try to keep up as he stops to point out berries like sil timmur and hisalu, a Himalayan control on hillsides.
interesting plants, ferns, and trees, weaving raspberry. And gharia sisnu, a kind of nettle,
in folk stories and information about their useful for heart problems. Rhododendron THE ART OF RELAXATION
medicinal and culinary uses. The Sikkim trees are scattered along the path. Chhetri Back at the resort, I pick up a book on Sikkim
mountains are home to many edible and points to a vine that looks like a snake to check for more information on wild plants
medicinal trees and plants that grow in the hood—the nagbeli. He says locals have named over a refreshing cocktail made with gin
wild. It is a fascinating walk, with Chhetri many plants for the way they look, like the infused with blueberries. The bar supervisor
generously sharing the knowledge that he has "athane jaar," which resembles a 50 paisa Dipankar Adhikary does a line of drinks like
gathered over the years from elderly locals, coin. The giant leaves of the wild monstera guras vodka and Indian spice-infused rum
including his grandparents, whose traditional growing up trees in the forest are called kaan which he mixes with brandy, honey, and hot
cultures have long revered plants and herbs. cherna because of their torn and fragmented water to make a toddy.
He stops, picks up a round, brown thing appearance. The bark of the chilauney tree will The evening is booked at the J Wellness Spa
covered with spiky thorns like a tiny hedgehog, make you itch, hence the name. He hands me with Lawmi, who recommends their Signature

26 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 S TAY

T H E I N F O R M AT I O N
THE ROOMS
60 elegant rooms and 9 luxurious suites,
including luxury suites with their individual
spacious balcony, separate floor and
amazing views of the Kanchenjunga and
the Eastern Himalayan range.

WELLNESS
Nature treks, outdoor yoga, a fitness
centre and signature spa therapies at the
J Wellness Spa.

ECO-FRIENDLY
The pet-friendly hotel has wooden bath
amenities. They have a bottling plant, an
organic vegetable garden, a composting
machine and use recycled water. Electric
carts transport guests around the hotel.

SOLO WOMEN
Solo women travellers get cars equipped
with GPS, WiFi-enabled emergency
numbers, pre-arrival calls, single point of
contact, specially designed kits, silk gowns
and customised turn-down experiences.

Address: Plot No. 1396 & 1397, Pangthang Forest Block,

Gangtok, Sikkim 737103
Website: tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/
taj-guras-kutir-gangtok/

The architecture is a blend of Sikkimese

aesthetics and contemporary design

Facial. Accustomed to the humidity of the
Bengal plains, the high-altitude environment
had made my skin dry. The massage with in-
house products works wonders.
Dinner is at Machan, an offshoot of the
legendary all-day dining place in Delhi’s
Taj Mahal. I ask for light food, a meal-for-one
kind of dinner. The kitchen is in the hands of
talented Executive Chef Siddharth Roy, and
he gets me a bowl of delicious lamb-based
soup. Chef Roy aims to present Machan as a
continental specialty restaurant at the resort.
The aim is to keep a farm-to-table ethos by
sourcing ingredients from their organic farm
for many dishes like the Guras Salad, which
uses locally grown seasonal produce including
rhododendrons. One of the menu sections, Lap
of the Himalayas, focuses on local foods like
bhutte ka bhaat, thukpa, geythuk, thenthuk,
sel roti, khapse, and Nepalese thali.
A SANCTUARY TREK
I am up at dawn again the next day, but
outside, everything is covered in a thick
fog. "Damnation," I mutter, and head out for
breakfast. At the Kauri (local shell pasta)
counter, a woman swiftly chops up veggies
and sprinkles some spices over the dish. I
have my breakfast on the deck where the sun
LVĶQDOO\RXWDQG,FDQVHHFRORXUIXOKRXVHV
of the village of Phodong in front. Part of
the luxury here is the views from this place.
I would recommend heading down early
morning to grab a front-seat table on the
deck overlooking the mountains.
The next part of the day is spent on a short
trek in Fambong Lho Wildlife Sanctuary
where the mist envelops us, forcing us to head
back as the path is too damp and steep. The
forest is home to the famous red panda apart
from birds and other animals. Log huts run by
the state forest department are located at
Golitar and Tumin. The resort offers several
activities, apart from the usual Sikkim
itinerary. "The mountain paths here are
excellent for guided walks," says Sougata
Ghosh, Operations Manager. "We host
romantic waterfall dinners on our premises,
and picnics inside the sanctuary. One of
the highlights is a trip to the all-women
monastery in Lingdok. " They also offer village
lunch experiences on treks. Children can sign
up for their day-in-a-forest expedition where
they'll learn all about being junior naturalists.
My last evening is spent in the lounge,
coddled by thick forest views from windows
that invite the ambience of the region’s natural
charm inside. I look out the windows at the
darkness outside. The Kanchenjunga is right
there, but it remains hidden.
The author's stay was sponsored by the property

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 27
 √दुआओं में याद रखना _

When the Past

is Present…
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

F
rom the ruins of ancient cities to majestic forts and ornate
stepwells, there are architectural marvels around every bend
in Gujarat… Monuments that are each more exquisite than
the next, including some that continue to throb with the
rhythms of local life. So, take a step back in time, and discover your
own piece of history!

Wander in the warrens of the Pols

If you step into the quaint streets of Ahmedabad, Nadiad, Vadodara,
and beyond, you will find yourself surrounded by these distinct
residential areas called Pols, which are unique to Gujarat. Derived
from the Sanskrit word “Poli”, Pols are more than just dwellings;
they are living embodiments of community spirit and architectural
brilliance. You can wander through the narrow lanes and explore
the exquisitely carved wooden windows, balconies, and ornate
chabutras (tower-like perches for birds), rich with history.

Dive into a world of Stepwells

When you retrace the ancient pathways of Gujarat, you’re bound to
come across stepwells, crafted to perfection by skilled artisans in the
past. These monumental structures once served as lifelines in a land
where water was scarce. From the multi-storeyed marvel of Bhuj’s
Ramkund Stepwell to the intricate carvings of Rani Ki Vav in Patan,
each stepwell is an ode to a time when perfection was sought and
achieved.

Marvel at the Havelis

Havelis were once considered the epitome of domestic grandeur,
catering to the needs (and wants) of wealthy merchants and noble
families alike. From the private quarters of the ground floor to
the lavish interiors of the first floor, where guests were welcomed
through a separate entrance, every corner tells a tale of prosperity
and prestige. If you wish to experience a slice of history wrapped in
opulence, spend a few precious hours at the havelis of Vadodara,
Sidhpur, Vaso and Ahmedabad.

The Bhuj House

Nestled in the heart of Bhuj, amidst the bustling streets and
vibrant markets, is The Bhuj House, a traditional Parsi home,
which has preserved its rich cultural legacy for generations.
As you step through its intricately carved doorways, you
are greeted by a sense of nostalgia and warmth. The
interconnected rooms, wrapped around a serene inner
courtyard adorned with a jhula (swing) and a well, speak
volumes about the simple yet refined lifestyle of its inhabitants.
Rani ki Vav, a stepwell in Patan
 READ
TRAVEL DISPATCHES
Following Fish
by SAMANTH SUBRAMANIAN
In his journey around the Indian coast,
Samanth Subramanian looks at the lives
RIĶVKLQJFRPPXQLWLHVDQGWKHOHDSLQJ
wealth of the tide" that breathes life into
local sea cuisine. If you're interested
in lores of the sea, this book will not
leave you disappointed. Additionally,
Subramanian's prose is littered with
amusing characters encountered while
traversing the Indian peninsula. From
West Bengal's hilsa to the world's fastest
ĶVKQHDU*RDWKHWUDYHORJXHEULQJV
considerable insights into what makes
Indian seafood. The author also raises
critical ecological questions around
RYHUĶVKLQJDQGGHJUDGDWLRQRIZDWHU
brought on by conglomerates.
Penguin Random House India
Hungry
by JEFF GORDINIER
Noma in Copenhagen, was arguably
the "best restaurant in the world"
until a bad batch of oysters shook chef
René Redzepi's world in 2013. Two
gastronauts—Redzepi and Gordinier—
set off on a quixotic journey on what
can only be called a culinary odyssey,
away from personal misadventures
and towards the reinvention of the
art of cooking. Gordinier describes his
four-year-long feat with a delectable
WZLVWIURPVDQGSDSHUĶJVLQ6\GQH\
to sea urchins from the Arctic Circle. If
your taste buds inspire and dictate your
itinerary around the world, Gordinier
DQGKLVWURRSRIFKHIVZLOOĶOOLQDV
perfect companions.
Tim Duggan Books,
Penguin Random House India
30 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
The Slow Road
to Tehran
by REBECCA LOWE
In 2015, Rebecca Lowe set out on a
bicycle named "Maud" across the Middle
East. Inspired by the likes of Dervla
Murphy, who biked from India to Ireland
in 1963, Lowe narrates her bicycle
adventure with exceptional wit. As she
sets off on an 11,000-kilometre trip from
Europe, she zips past Turkey, Lebanon,
Jordan, Egypt, Sudan, Oman, and UAE to
ĶQDOO\HQGXSLQ,UDQ,QWKLVVRORULGH
she recalls the nights by the Nile River
and the cultural and political "mosaic" of
lives she encountered during her travels.
With compelling prose and cheeky
humour, this is a nuanced account of life
in the Middle East.
September Publishing
 C O M PAS S

IT IS NOT FAR-FETCHED TO SAY THAT TRAVELOGUES CHANGED THE WORLD.

HISTORICALLY, TRAVEL SCRIBES HAVE BEEN A MIXED BAG OF SCHOLARS AND
MERCHANTS. THE WRITERS OF TODAY, WHO BEAR THIS LEGACY PROUDLY, ARE JUST
AS GOOD AT CAPTURING A DESTINATION BRILLIANTLY, DELIVERING INSIGHTS AROUND
GEOGRAPHIES INTERTWINED WITH CULTURE AND MEMORY. HOW MANY OF THESE
WONDERFUL TRAVEL BOOKS HAVE YOU READ?
Words ¤ PRIYANKA KAPOOR

Soundings The Roads to Sata The Mountains

by DOREEN CUNNINGHAM
In this heart-warming travelogue,
a London-based climate journalist,
Doreen Cunningham, sets off on a
voyage with her two-year-old son from
Baja, California to the Arctic in pursuit
of migratory grey whales. On this brave
journey through icy seas, Cunningham
GLYHVKHDGĶUVWLQWRWKHZRUOGRIWKHVH
fascinating mammals and their unique
motherly traits that allow them to
raise calves despite numerous looming
threats in the ocean. Besides her distinct
and informative prose about whale pods,
Cunningham also delivers anecdotes
about the Iñupiat—indigenous people
of north-western Alaska—in this
intriguing travel account.
Virago
by ALAN BOOTH
In 1977, Alan Booth decided to undertake
a 2,000-mile walk through Japan,
starting from Soya in North to Cape Sata
in South Japan. This 128-day walk was
initiated with an ambition to observe
Japan from a Westerner's perspective—a
country that remained elusive to many
gaijins (foreigners) in the 1900s. After
living in Tokyo for six years, Booth wasn't
altogether a stranger to the country's
customs but could manage a Ryokan-
style tour that delivered cultural insights
picked from rural back roads of Japan. At
the heart of this travelogue are overheard
conversations narrated with a sense of
British humour that might remind you
of James May's "Our Man in Japan."
John Weatherhill Inc, a Penguin imprint
of My Life
by WALTER BONATTI
If a compelling mountaineering
expedition is your choice of armchair
adventure, Walter Bonatti narrates a
suspenseful account of his controversial
1954 K2 ascent. Bonatti—who was a part
ofWKHĶUVWVXFFHVVIXOH[SHGLWLRQSDUW\
on K2—was accused of exhausting fellow
mountaineer Achille Compagnoni's
oxygen, a matter that was later settled in
court. Telling his side of the story, Bonatti
discusses dangerous alpine routes and
wilderness survival techniques, among
many other experiences. Gospel for
many beginner mountaineers, Bonatti's
writing is about weathering threatening
storms, both in life and on mountains.
Penguin

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 31
Paragliding above the lush
greenery of Saputara
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

JOYS OF
SLOW TRAVEL
Why travel at a pace that allows you no time to pause and
immerse yourself in the essence of a place? Leave your to-do
lists behind, and let Gujarat lead you where it will…

By SHEETAL VYAS

W
ith its rich cultural communities. The organisation
heritage, diverse focuses on activities that closely
landscapes and involve nature: ploughing fields,
vibrant traditions, seeding, plucking fruits/vegetables,
Gujarat offers a multitude of ways to crop harvesting, bathing in rivers
travel the state. There are also many and more.
ways to immerse in the local way of Not too far away, Saputara, ‘the
life through homestays, ecologically abode of snakes’, in the Sahyadri
sensitive hotels and travel operators range is Gujarat’s only hill station
to reduce the impact of travel
without compromising on the
experience.

RUSTIC CHARM

Saputara—Dang
Dang district, in the southeastern
part of Gujarat, is a lush region
with dense forests and stunning
landscapes. The region is also
home to several indigenous tribal
communities, including the Bhil,
Warli, Kunbi, Gamit and Dubla tribes.
Dang is the perfect place for
a rural retreat – where travellers
can completely reset their lives
and priorities. Rural Pleasure
(ruralpleasure.com) offers a clutch
of packages in village Subir that
immerse visitors into the rich cultural
heritage and customs of the tribal
Vibrant celebrations at the Dang Darbar in Ahwa
 Locals add a splash of colour to the white
deserts of the Rann of Kutch
with an altitude of 1,081m. The
verdant town has a museum
showcasing the culture of local
tribes. Ahmedabad-based Invincible
NGO (invinciblengo.org), dedicated
to India’s youth, conducts interesting
treks to this beautiful spot.
Saputara is 91km/2hrs from Nashik,
and Dang is 138km/3hrs.
THE WHITE PLAINS OF KUTCH
Bhuj—Hodka—Dordho
With its salt marshes, wetlands,
desert terrain and rich biodiversity,
the vast and diverse landscape of
Kutch is one of the most unique in
India. The town of Bhuj, the gateway
to Kutch, has much to offer travellers:
its vibrant cultural heritage, beautiful
palaces, temples and havelis, and
traditional arts and crafts. The Bhuj
House (thebhujhouse.com) is an
extremely aesthetic and acclaimed
heritage homestay, which serves as
a fabulous base.
The next stop is Hodka Village,
home to the artistic Meghwal,
Harijan and Halepotra communities.
The village is renowned for its skilled
artisans and traditional crafts, such
as embroidery, weaving, tie-dye
(bandhni), pottery and leatherwork.
The community runs a scenic village
resort called Shaam-e-Sarhad
(hodka.in; open Oct–Mar), with mud
cottages designed and embellished
in the local style.
Finally, at the edge of the Rann
of Kutch, is the village of Dhordo
(www.rural.tourism.gov.in/Dhordo-
Village.html), which hosts the annual
three-month-long Rann Utsav (www.
rannutsav.com), offering visitors
glimpses of the seemingly infinite
white desert with sides of cultural
performances, traditional food and
handicraft shopping. The village
transforms into a temporary city with
a range of tented accommodation.
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

Lesser Flamingos take wing over the Saat Kaman, an architectural marvel
waters of the Marine National Park in the historic setting of Pavagadh

traveller. The Champaner–Pavagadh Park, with a population of nearly 600,

Dhordo is among United Nations
World Tourism Organization’s Best
Tourism Villages in 2023.
Hodka is 64km/1¼ hrs from Bhuj
while Dhordo is 80km/2hrs.
PAST PERFECT
Champaner—Pavagadh
For fans of heritage travel, Gujarat
offers an embarrassment of riches:
innumerable step wells of incredible
beauty and sophistication, palaces,
havelis and temples. There is one
site however, which taken together
can satiate even the most hardy
Archaeological Park covers a total
area of 3,287 acres with a buffer
zone of 7,195 acres. Champaner was
founded by the Chavda Dynasty in
the 8th century and later served as
the capital of the Gujarat Sultanate.
The whole area bears remnants of
various reigns across centuries, with
remains of a fortified city, including
palaces, mosques, temples, tombs
and stepwells. It was designated as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.
The Heritage Trust Baroda
(heritagetrustbaroda.org) has
long worked to study, document
and conserve the site. Also, Soar
Excursions (soarexcursions.com/
heritage-and-monuments)
conducts some excellent trips
showcasing Gujarat’s architectural
marvels.
The Park is 50km/1hr from
Vadodara. The distance between
Champaner and Pavagarh Hill is
7km/20min.
CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL
Gir—Khijadia—Jamnagar—Little
Rann
A wildlife travel itinerary in Gujarat
can be a thrilling proposition, with
diverse ecosystems and habitats
and offering encounters with unique
and endangered species. The
majestic Asiatic lions of Gir National
are first on the list. The Asiatic Lion
Lodge (asiaticlionlodge.com) offers
responsible luxury and arranges
for jeep safaris through the park’s
rugged terrain.
Then, for a different kettle of fish,
head to the Marine National Park
near Jamnagar. Sprawled across
162.89 sq km, and encompassing
42 islands on the coast, the Park
has a variety of habitats, including
intertidal zones, coral reefs,
mangrove forests and pristine
beaches. During the low tide, the
sea falls back for miles and the
hidden sea floor is revealed. Found
here are more than 70 species
of sponges, 52 coral species and a
wealth of sea life.
The wildlife odyssey finishes at the
Wild Ass Sanctuary in the Little Rann
of Kutch. The vast salt flats and
grasslands house herds of Indian
wild asses, a near-threatened
subspecies known locally as
‘ghudkhar’. The wonderful Rann
Riders resort (rannriders.com) offers
excellent accommodation as well
as safaris.
Gir is 73km/2½ hrs from Junagadh
and 64km/2hrs from Veraval.
Jamnagar is well connected by
road, rail and air and is 91km/2½ hrs
from Rajkot. The Wild Ass Sanctuary
is 127km/2½hrs from Ahmedabad.
JOURNEY,
DISCOVER,
LIVE

LUXE BOUTIQUE ESCAPES

JUNGLE GETAWAY

INSIDE THEIR HOMES

TATTOOED IN TRADITION

THE WILD LIFESTYLE

HIGH-ALTITUDE STAYS

ECO-FRIENDLY SUMMER IDEAS

EXPLORE

BOOK
A STAY

ON A TYPICAL NIGHT AT
6KDNHVSHDUHDQG&RPSDQ\\RXPLJKWĶQG
someone curled up with a book on a little
bunk above the Children’s Section or a
spot marked for sleeping near the Poetry
Nook. These are the “Tumbleweeds”
of the bookstore. At Shakespeare and
Company, you are welcome to stay free
of charge; you only need to follow the
eternal tenets of the bookstore: work
around the shop a few hours, write a
one-page autobiography, and read a book
every day. Established in 1951 by George
Whitman, this literary sanctuary at 37
rue de la Bûcherie along Paris’s Left Bank
has sheltered over 40,000 people and
continues to host regular literary events.
Whitman started letting out his shop
to all sorts of guests, or “Tumbleweeds”,
to pay back for the generosity he received
from strangers during his travels. There is
D:ULWHUõV6WXGLRRQWKHĶUVWķRRUZLWKD
small bed wedged above the staff lockers
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

where you can sleep. Don’t expect privacy

here, but be ready to share your space with
strangers, all united by their love for books.
At the entrance to the library, a reminder
hangs: “Be Not Inhospitable to Strangers
Lest They Be Angels in Disguise.”
 THE LIST

THESE STUNNING
BOUTIQUE RESORTS
ACROSS INDIA OFFER GREAT
VIEWS, IMMERSIVE LOCAL
EXPERIENCES AND ALL
THE LUXURIES YOU WOULD
WANT ON A VACATION

Words ¤ SHREYA CHEEMA

BREATHTAKING
BOUTIQUE

38 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 EXPLORE

The Royal
Heritage Suite
in Bari Kothi
is adorned
with antique
furniture and
plush fabrics

COURTESY: BARI KOTHI

BARI T
here are few places that have the uncanny trade centre in the 1700s. During this period,
ability to sweep you off your feet and many business families from Rajasthan
plop you into the past. Bari Kothi in migrated to Murshidabad, adopting the name

Kothi
Azimganj, West Bengal, aces that. Located four
hours from Kolkata, the property stands as the
symbol of a unique period in Bengal's history,
when Murshidabad used to serve as a global
"Sheherwalis," meaning "city dwellers." The
Dudhorias, who built the Bari Kothi in 1774,
were one of them. Even then, the Kothi was
DVWUXFWXUHRIUHPDUNDEOHEHDXW\ĶQGLQJ

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 39
 THE LIST

mentions in seminal works, such as the

"Musnud of Murshidabad" (1704-1904) and the
famous "Cyclopedia of India" (1908). However,
after the British took over and Murshidabad
began losing its glory to become "the
Forgotten Wealth Capital of the World," Bari
Kothi and other mansions were abandoned
and left to decay. It was only in 2015 that
Darshan Dudhoria and Lipika Dudhoria, the
seventh generation of Rai Bahadur Budh Sing
Dudhoria, decided to restore the mansion to its
former glory.

THE SPACE
The Dudhoria siblings never considered
converting Bari Kothi into a boutique stay.
"We only decided to turn it into a stay after we
received appreciation from a few international
guests who had stopped by to witness the
UHVWRUDWLRQSURFHVVRIWKHĶUVWEORFNVD\V
'DUVKDQ7KURXJKRXWWKHĶYH\HDUVRIWKH
restoration process, the siblings and architect
Dr Samar Chandra teamed up with members
of the local community to resurrect the Kothi.
"Maintaining authenticity and utilising
traditional materials were central principles of
the restoration project," explains Darshan.
Currently, the property houses 15 suites
adorned with 250-year-old antique furniture,
wood beamed ceilings and carved archways. In
addition, Bari Kothi also boasts three gardens,
VHYHQFRXUW\DUGVDQGĶYHGLQLQJDUHDV
COURTESY: KAHANI PARADISE

FOOD
The Sheherwali cuisine is as rich as its
300-year-old history, and across Bari Kothi's
three dining halls—Zareen Mahal, Darbar Hall,
and Naubat Khana—you can taste its authentic
ķDYRXUV7KHDOOYHJHWDULDQFXLVLQHLVGLVWLQFW
for its unique blend of Rajasthani culinary
tradition and Bengali ingredients.

EXPERIENCES Top and right:

Bari Kothi offers up to 50 curated experiences. The private villa
Opt for a guided tour of the region and visit is ideal for large
groups; enjoy
the Charbangla terracotta temple, Hazarduari,
yoga in the great
and the local markets. Guided morning walks outdoors
take you through the other havelis nearby
(such as the Nowlakha Kothi, Rajbari, Singhi
Kothi, Marble Palace) and the Jain temples.

Tariff: From INR 17,000 per night (not

inclusive of experiences/excursions)
Getting There: Fly or take a train to Kolkata
and then embark on a four-hour drive.
Website: barikothi.com

40 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4

KAHANI Paradise
G
okarna may not come to mind when
you think of a family holiday, but this
home turned boutique property might
just make you want to reconsider. Located
in the south on a hilltop and overlooking
Om Beach, Kahani Paradise emerges out of
the lush greenery like a gem. Its imposing
architecture is almost impossible to ignore.
The estate spans 20 acres, but for Anthony
Bellm, the man behind Kahani Paradise,
the vision was to make it feel like a “home
away from home.”
“I want the guests to feel at ease. Kahani
Paradise has been designed to exude ultimate
luxury, but it is not meant to feel stuck up. I
want people to feel relaxed when they go back
from here,” says Bellm. With only greenery
stretching out for miles, unique bird species
as regular visitors, and stunning views, the
villa ensures exactly that.
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 41
EXPLORE
THE SPACE
The property, which houses six rooms that
open up to spectacular views, was designed
by Philip Sybon. Talking about what served
as inspiration, Bellm says, “We worked very
closely together, and it was a collaboration
from the very beginning. Our idea was to fuse
Thai and Konkan architectural styles, and
that is prevalent throughout the estate.”
In Kahani Paradise, each suite follows
a unique theme and houses accents and
antiques collected from all over the world.
From vintage magazines to a Naga boat
that has been repurposed into a coffee table
to woodcarved Gujarati stallions, Kahani
Paradise boasts an eclectic mix of things
that will pique your interest. However, the
ultimate showstopper is the view of the
FRQķXHQFHRIWKHULYHUDQGWKHVHDWKDWFDQEH
seen from every room.
FOOD
The food at Kahani Paradise is comforting
yet indulgent. Expect to be treated to lavish
spreads for all three meals, and if you
have any special requests, the kind staff is
ever-ready to rustle up something for you.
7KH*RNDUQDVW\OHFRFRQXWĶVKFXUU\LVD
proven hit.
EXPERIENCES
Gokarna presents a unique mix of
experiences that cater to the likes of every
travel lover. Visit the nearby Paradise and
Om Beach, where you can try water sports
like kayaking. The estate also lets you rent
WKHLUYLQWDJH5R\DO(QĶHOGRU-HHSWKDW
you can take into the town and explore
the many temples, the most notable being
the Mahabaleshwar Temple, a 4th-century
CE Hindu temple.
Within the property, you must treat yourself
to a massage by the in-house therapist or ask
the staff to guide you to their “secret spot”
where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the
sunset or simply spend time in the plunge
pool while enjoying a glass of champagne.
Tariff: From INR 15,000 per night
Getting There: To reach the property,
ķ\WRHLWKHU0RSD$LUSRUWLQ*RD+XEOL
Airport or Mangalore Airport. From Goa
and Mangalore, it takes approximately four
hours by car and from Hubli, it takes three-
and-a-half hours.
Website: kahaniparadise.com
 THE LIST

Geoffrey Bawa and Oscar Niemeyer, each room

LVVSDFLRXVDQGDLU\UHķHFWLQJWKHDHVWKHWLFV
of “tropical modernism” brilliantly. “We
wanted to blur the lines between the interiors
and the outside—so open-to-sky showers,
tropical prints, and well-furnished, expansive
verandahs are common throughout,” says Hill.

FOOD
Hill’s training as a chef shines through in
Jalakara’s unique culinary offerings. “We have
COURTESY: JALAKARA

designed a menu that is truly an island-to-

table gastronomic experience with l tropical
ingredients gathered from the forest; spices,
herbs, fruits and vegetables that we grow at the
property and ultra-fresh seafood,” says Hill.

EXPERIENCES
While the Island will please an adventurist, You can go snorkelling at the nearby

JALAKARA Jalakara is just the right place to be if you want

to unwind. The rooms don’t have WiFi and
audio-visual entertainment options. “We want
our guests to feel re-energised by their stay at
Radhanagar, Elephant and Turtle beaches.
You can also take a boat trip around the
uninhabited island of Ritchies Archipelago
and to the Rani Jhansi Marine Nature Reserve.

I
magine waking up to swaying palm
trees, the sound of the ocean waves, and a
faint birdsong in the distance. In Jalakara,
on Havelock Island in Andaman and Nicobar
Islands, it is a regular day.
Years ago, when Mark Hill and Atalanta
Weller came across an abandoned banana and
betel nut plantation while exploring the quiet
bylanes of the island, the couple knew they
found just the right place for their “off-grid
paradisical hideaway,” as Hill likes to put it.
Jalakara and leave with a renewed lust for life.
Our name means “the source” in Sanskrit—and
we want the property to be the source of happy
memories and rejuvenation,” says Hill.
THE SPACE
The property housing three rooms, three
suites and one private villa, is an ode to the
natural beauty surrounding the property.
Designed by the celebrated Indian architect
Ajith Andagere and inspired by the works of
The staff at Jalakara can also arrange for guided
forest walks through Havelock’s rainforest.
Tariff: Rooms from INR 19,000; suites from
INR 26,500; the private villa from INR 49,000
Getting There: Flights to Port Blair are
available daily from major cities. Havelock
Island is 90 minutes away by ferry from Port
Blair. The last boats from Port Blair leave at 2
SPVRERRNķLJKWVDFFRUGLQJO\
Website: jalakara.info

Top and
right: The
Garden Suite
at Jalakara;
enjoy beautiful
sunset views
by the pool

42 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
AMAYA

H
aving grown up in Chandigarh, the
sukoon of the hills was always a few
hours' drive away for Deepak Gupta,
the man behind Amaya. While corporate life
took him to different places, Gupta’s yearning
for the peace and quiet of the hills only got
stronger, prompting him to set up Amaya.
The 10-room boutique property is
ensconced in a 20-acre terraced forest in
Darwa, Himachal Pradesh. "I wanted to create
a space where people have to deliberately slow
down and think about the life they are leading.
I want guests to truly relax, spend time in
nature, and have a good meal.”

THE SPACE
:KHQLWFDPHWRĶQGLQJVRPHERG\ZKR
could articulate Gupta's vision, renowned
architect Bijoy Jain was his pick. Having won
various accolades for sustainable architecture,
Jain, who had never created a resort before,
intuitively understood Amaya’s essence. “My
brief to Jain was to build a space where if I
evacuate everything in 40 years, nature should
be able to take over,” says Gupta. Keeping
this in mind, Jain built Amaya using only
local materials—from local stone and wood
to handcrafted copper roofs. While the walls
are made of stone, Jain invited Reudi Kerbs to
COURTESY: AMAYA

ĶQLVKZLWKOLPHSODVWHUDQDQFLHQWWHFKQLTXH
preserved by the Swiss artisan himself.
For the decor, Gupta and Jain harnessed
interior design elements from all over the
world to strike the perfect balance of luxury
minimalism. Gupta describes Amaya’s 10
spacious villas as “Japanese ryokan, combined
with the Scandinavian minimalist design.”
FOOD
/LNHDOOWKLQJVDW$PD\DWKHIRRGĶQGVLWV
roots in simplicity. “I believe that if you want
to be truly sustainable, food should not travel.
So, I wanted to create a food programme that
LVVHDVRQDODQGWUXO\ĶQHGLQLQJøVD\V*XSWD
who partnered up with renowned chef Prateek
Sadhu to curate a menu that fused global
techniques—from French to Japanese—and
locally grown ingredients. While most of the
produce is grown on-site, anything that is
not is sourced from around the region—be it
vegetables and fruits from a farm in Solan or
Listen to bird song and savour the richness of nature at Amaya
cheese from a venture started by an Indo-
French couple in Mashobra, everything is
traceable to its point of origin.
Though you can start your day with
sourdough bread baked in-house and enjoy
IUHVKO\SOXFNHGIUXLWVóIURPPXOEHUU\WRĶJV
to pears, the traditional Himachali Dham
experience at Amaya stands out. “We call in
expert cooks from different parts of Himachal
who specialise in making particular dishes in
the Dham, and the complete meal is cooked
RXWGRRUVLQROGFRSSHUXWHQVLOVRQDĶUHSLW:H
set up seating right next to it, overlooking the
dense forests, to give our guests the complete
traditional experience,” says Gupta.
EXPERIENCES
If you are interested in culinary experiences,
you can opt for a horticulture workshop or
relish a 12 to 14-course spread curated by
Amaya Test Kitchen and treat yourself to a
meal at Prateek Sadhu’s newest offering, Naar,
which is located within the property. If you
want to explore the region, you can go on a
guided village walk, sunrise/sunset hike or a
two-hour guided walk to Gamber River.
Tariff: From INR 30,000 per night
Getting There: : Fly into Chandigarh or take
a train to Chandigarh Junction and take a cab.
Website: theamayalife.com

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 43
 THE LIST
COURTESY: SAWANTWADI PALACE
SAWANTWADI Palace
S
awantwadi Palace—a boutique art hotel
located in Sindhudurg, Maharashtra,
was built between 1755 and 1803. The
palace still exudes the grandeur of the past but
with a contemporaneity instilled by the young
couple—Yuvrani Shraddha Lakham Sawant
Bhonsle and Yuvraj Lakham Sawant Bhonsle—
who helmed the palace’s restoration.
“The process of converting the palace into
a hotel began in 2019 when Lakham and I
got married. Since we met at the Culinary
Institute of America, we had an understanding
of the hospitality industry,” says Shraddha.
The couple brought their passion for culinary
DUWVWRWXUQWKHSURSHUW\LQWR,QGLDõVĶUVWHYHU
chef-owned palace hotel.
THE SPACE
Across most palace stays, the legacy of the
reigning family is the axis around which
Left and right:
Have a royal
rendezvous at
Sawantwadi
Palace
everything revolves. But in Sawantwadi Palace,
the royal family has let the region’s legacy in
art shine.
While one part of the palace continues to be
the royal family’s residence, the Taisaheb Wada,
built by Raghunath Sawant in the 1800s for
WKHĶYHTXHHQVRI6DZDQWZDGLZDVFKRVHQWR
be converted into a boutique hotel after being
shut for almost 30 years.
When the restoration process of the wada
began, Lakham and Shraddha discovered
antiques dating back centuries that now adorn
the six suites and the pathway leading up to it.
The six suites uses Ganjifa art to represent
the various avatars of Vishnu. “Ganjifa
originated in Persia and so the art on it
represented the King and his court. When it
was brought to India in the 16th century, the
art was adapted to depict the story of Vishnu’s
many avatars,” says Shraddha.
44 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
FOOD
“We are very emotional about food and so
our menu is extensive. From Konkan food
to Japanese and Korean-inspired tasting
menus, we do everything,” says Shraddha.
“A must-try is the Sawantwadi Special eggs
benedict (a croissant topped with poached
eggs, coconut chilli chutney and dry curry
leaves chutney). For lunch, we recommend
our Konkan thaali.”
EXPERIENCES
Opt for a private Ganjifa art workshop where
you can learn to create your own playing
cards or connect with the royals over tea. Go
for a picnic at Amboli Ghat, visit the home
of a Sawantwadikar to enjoy a traditional
homemade meal, and take an excursion to
Chitari (famous for pangara wooden toys).
Tariff: From INR 15,000 per night
Getting There: Fly into Mopa Airport in
Goa and take a private taxi to Sawantwadi. The
closest railway junctions are Mumbai, Pune
and Mangalore.
Website: sawantwadipalace.com

COURTESY: STOK PALACE
STOK Palace
I
f Ladakh is on your wishlist this summer,
take the experience a notch above by going
a little ahead of Leh and booking a stay
at the 200-year-old Stok Palace. The Palace,
belonging to the Namgyal Dynasty, was built
by Ladakhi craftsmen in 1820. Situated atop a
hill and overlooking the Singey Sangpo valley,
the Palace still exudes a silent power that once
echoed throughout the region and even Nepal.
While the Palace continues to be home to
the current royal members of the 400-year-old
dynasty, a part of the heritage building was
Top and right:
The Palace has
an in-house
monastery;
one of the
rooms inside
Stok Palace
restored and opened up to visitors in 2007 by
HRH, HRH Gyalpo Jigmed Wangchuk Namgyal.
THE SPACE
The Stok Palace Hotel is made up of six
restored suites located in the heritage building
and three large villas that are spread within
the palace grounds, hidden by the surrounding
apricot, walnut, and willow trees. However, it
is in the former that you are truly transported
to the past through the original frescoes and
the vernacular architecture that have been
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 45
EXPLORE
painstakingly preserved through the ages.
,ĶUVWVWDUWHGRIIHUHGRQHURRPDQGEDVHG
on the response, went on to develop the other
suites. I wanted to retain the space's authentic
charm so that the guests could relive the past,"
says Namgyal. But that is not all; Namgyal also
wanted to ensure that the Palace is preserved
in a way that communicates the importance of
understanding vernacular architecture.
"Since Ladakh is a dry and arid place, stone
and wood are primary materials that work
well. However, as the shelf life for everything
here is so little, I wanted to show that
something like the Stok Palace can survive
hundreds of years," says Namgyal.
The rooms in the heritage building
epitomise Namgyal's vision perfectly from
antique wooden furniture to frescoes
depicting Buddhist lores to Ladakh's native
textiles used for furnishing. However, the
villas, featuring two rooms and a common
sitting area, infuse traditional Ladakhi
architecture and contemporary interiors.
FOOD
Stok Palace keeps you rooted in the region
through authentic Ladakhi dishes made by
following heirloom recipes. The traditional
kitchen takes you beyond the usuals, like
Thukpa, to treat you to special creations like
namthuk, gyathuk, skyu, paba with tsimek and
phemar—they are also all made with locally
grown ingredients.
EXPERIENCES
Visit the Palace's Buddhist Temple and witness
the resident monks' enchanting evening and
morning prayer rituals. You must also visit the
Palace Museum, which houses an extensive
collection of costumes, jewellery dating
back thousands of years ago, artefacts and
household antiques. You can also see the Royal
Throne Room, which is usually out of bounds
for day visitors. In addition, the team at Stok
Palace are happy to arrange a guided village
tour for you, where you can interact with
the locals and learn about their sustainable
way of living.
Tariff: : From INR 20,000 per night
Getting There: : The Stok Palace is located
about 20 km from Leh Airport, so the best
RSWLRQLVWRķ\LQWR/HKDQGWKHQKLUHDSULYDWH
taxi to the hotel. The drive usually lasts up to
45 minutes.
Website: stokpalaceheritage.com
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

Adventure
Unlimited
N
estled amidst the majestic Himalayas lies Uttarakhand,
a haven for those seeking adrenaline-pumping
adventures and soul-soothing experiences. From
scaling towering peaks to navigating untamed
rivers, Uttarakhand will take you on a journey that promises
unforgettable thrills and breathtaking vistas.

Test New Waters

Rishikesh is a hotspot on Uttarakhand’s adventure map, and with
good reason. Often called the ‘Gateway to the Garhwal Himalayas’,
when you step into this holy town, you’re greeted by the tranquil
flow of the Ganges. Picture yourself kayaking along her pristine
waters, surrounded by lush greenery and towering rocks. Or
experience the thrill of rafting through the rapids, feeling the rush
of adrenaline as you navigate the twists and turns of the river. Be
sure to pick a travel outfit that’s mindful of its carbon footprint and
of your safety too!

Scale New Heights

For the intrepid travellers, bungee jumping and rock climbing
offer a chance — quite literally — to conquer new heights, if
you choose the travel outfit with a good track record and strong
safety protocols. It’s the ultimate adventure with stunning views
of the surrounding mountains as you free fall towards the rushing
waters of the Ganges. And as the sun begins its descent, you can
enjoy a well-deserved break on the white sandy beaches, where
conversations flow as freely as the river itself.

Expeditions
India
If you are looking to experience such thrilling adventures,
consider connecting with Expedition India, which pushes
the boundaries of adventure travel, but responsibly.
From unforgettable kayaking and rafting experiences, it
celebrates the pristine beauty of the Ganges, and chooses
not to run the river during high season to protect and
preserve it as best as it can.
Rafting in Rishikesh on the Ganga
 SET
IN

THE

WILD
EMBRACED BY THE FORESTS OF TIPESHWAR IN MAHARASHTRA, TIPAI WILDLIFE
LUXURIES IS A LUXE REFUGE THAT HAS AN EDGE OF THE UNEXPECTED

Words ¤ ANTARAA CHATTERJEE

 EXPLORE

Inside
one of
the Pool
Villas

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 49
 MAHARASHTRA
A WHITE-THROATED KINGFISHER FLEW
over my head as I attempted to take in the
spread of the forest resort from my perch on
the buggy leading me to my room. A 2.5-hour
drive from Nagpur would land you at Tipai
Wildlife Luxuries, a wildlife resort smack in
the middle of a forest and only a kilometre
away from Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary.
A narrow dirt path veers off the main road
and leads you to the resort. Dotted with
towering neem, mulberry and bamboo trees,
the property unfurls in forks of slim paths
leading towards different sections.
"I wanted to create an experience that
embodies the joys of the jungle beyond
The running verandahs offer uninterrupted views of the surroundings
wildlife sightings," says Keyur Joshi, the
founder of Tipai, which is the inaugural
project of the bigger Wildlife Luxuries plan.
"Tipai was built to conserve natural resources
and to transform the local communities who
have, for generations, protected these lands."
There are 15 villas in all, including four with
private pools.
"Do you know the story of Talabwali?" asks
Agnes T Sebastian, one of the naturalists
at Tipai. She narrates how a Tipeshwar
forest tigress had come down to one
of the pool villas. Pregnant, the tigress
called Talabwali (named so because her
territory in the forest houses a vast lake)
drank some water from the pool. She rested
on the villa's verandah before returning to the
forest. "Coincidentally, the villa she visited
was named Shera." That particular villa has
now been kept for guest viewing but can be
booked in case other villas are unavailable.
THE STAY
Mine was one of the 11 forest villas. From
the outside, the forest villas would make you
believe they have been part of the natural
landscape all along, having erupted from
the very land they are built on. Inside, the
50 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
tastefully rustic décor brings you to the luxe
reality of the estate. But what struck me was
the mysteriously cool temperature inside the
villa while the heat soared outside. Looking
up, I saw the arched ceiling was made entirely
with kulhads or clay cups to regulate the
temperatures inside.
Designed by architect Ariane Thakore
Ginwala, who worked with the Institute of
Village Sciences in Wardha, 80 km from the
site, Tipai was built with sustainability and
low-impact construction is mind. "Whether
it was the techniques, materials or the people
involved, it was all of this land," says Ginwala.
"Instead of importing labour, we trained the
villagers in rammed earth construction and
stone masonry. Our vaulted roofs are made of
terracotta tiles by local porters."
The living area invites you with a plush,
patterned sofa in the centre and soft rugs. The
VXLWH VOLJKWLQJĶ[WXUHVUHSUHVHQWWKHķRUD
and fauna of the place, with ceiling lights
LQWKHVKDSHRIELUGVDQGDKXJHķRRUODPS
with spindly wrought iron stalks and light
HPDQDWLQJIURPLWVĶYHEXOERXVURVHVKDSHG
heads. A running verandah with unimpeded
YLHZVRIWKHQDWXUDOVXUURXQGLQJVĶOOVWKH
villa with light. Open the doors and take in all

At Palaash, Chef Amninder Sandhu's (centre) all-women team cooks with local ingredients in an open kitchen
the wildlife calls intrinsic to the place.
An attached powder room and the coffee
and tea station complete the living area. A
three-step descent leads to the bedroom,
which further opens up to an expansive twin
vanity, a shower stall and a dressing area. The
completely private outdoor rain shower made
my days fresh, with the smell of the wet earth
reminding me of being caught in a downpour.
All the pools, the private ones and the
FRPPRQSRRODUHĶOOHGZLWKZDWHUZLWKRXW
chemicals. It is cleaned daily by the staff, and
\RXDUHOLNHO\WRVSRWVPDOOĶVKDQGLQVHFWV
ķRDWLQJLQVLGHJLYLQJ\RXWKHIHHORIEDWKLQJ
in a natural forest water body.
FOOD IN THE WILD
"Welcome to Palaash," a chirpy voice and a
bright grin greeted me at the entrance. The
slight girl named Komal held out a plate of
white and orange amuse-bouche, and a burst
of the freshest Nagpur oranges exploded in
my mouth, melting with cool white chocolate.
Dining is a quirky affair at Tipai. My three
days at the resort were spent sampling the
food of the three restaurants on the property.
While Perch and Wadi offer meals throughout
the day, Palaash is a dinner-only restaurant
and the baby of celebrity Chef Amninder
Sandhu, the founding partner of the dining
experience at Tipai. A national award winner,
6DQGKXZDVRQHRIWKHĶUVWFKHIVWRFKDPSLRQ
RSHQĶUHFRRNLQJDQGLVDOVRWKHEUDLQV
behind Goa's new restaurant Bawri.
As the amuse-bouche blew my mind, I
could only wait to explore the rest of the
seven-course degustation menu with
bated breath.
A refreshing Mahua cocktail accompanied
by two dishes–Ambaadi, Chinch, Charred
Ananas, Dahi and Ratalu Gulab, Nimbu, Crisp
Kashiphal (pumpkin)–served as the perfect
start to the culinary odyssey in Palaash.
For subsequent courses, there is slow-
cooked raan with bhakri, which you eat like
you would tacos, bater (quail) in saoji spice,
and smoked bamboo pork with Indrayani
rice. The dessert is a lip-smacking combo
of Mahua kala jamun with pista ice cream
served in the eponymous palaash leaves.
"All my career, I wanted to be able to cook
in an underground barbecue pit, and I wanted
WRGRRSHQĶUHFRRNLQJZLWKRXWNLOOLQJP\
team," says Sandhu. Her perfect open kitchen
at the restaurant with an all-women team
of cooks is whipping up the best food at the
property. She explains that 80 per cent of their
workforce is from the neighbouring village;
some worked as cleaners in the kitchen and
others in housekeeping. "It's a very poor
neighbourhood, and in our little way, we
wanted to make a difference for the locals
there. At this point in my career, I hold it
closest to my heart."
Palaash's menu brings a fresh spin to
Nagpur's culinary heritage and gives guests a
palatable menu without marring the essence
of local recipes.
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 51
EXPLORE
OF STRIPES AND SMILES
Tipai is not just for people lured by the
possibility of spotting tigers, although that is
one of the big highlights of the place. I set out
on the safari early in the morning with Ishani,
one of the naturalists at the property, a local
guide, and two other guests, and a complete
care package of snacks and beverages to keep
us well-fed and hydrated. We lucked out
ZLWKLQWKHĶUVWKRXUDQGVSRWWHGWZRDGXOWV
one female and a male, in a head-on sighting.
Enclosing an area of 148 sq km, the
Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary is still
relatively unknown to most people, which
somehow make spottings easier. About
15 tigers currently inhabit the sanctuary,
which is largely dry and deciduous. Besides
the tigers, Tipeshwar is also home to a wide
variety of birds, deer, cheetal, wild boars,
langurs, and many other species.
With most people picking a wildlife
resort for obvious reasons, Tipai goes a
step ahead with its endless hospitality.
The staff will greet you with smiles and a
beaming namaste regardless of how many
times during the day you see them. Buggies
will take you around the property, with staff
members accommodating your every need.
Tariff: From INR 50,000 per night
Getting There: Fly to Nagpur and then
drive for 2.5 hours to reach the resort.
Website: wildlifeluxuries.com
The author's stay was sponsored
by the property
 DESTINATIONS REIMAGINED
WITH HERITAGE AND ADVENTURE
If you're looking for unique places to visit in India for the season,
here are the destinations that should be on every wishlist

Gandhi Sagar Forest Retreat by Evoke Experiences offers a unique river-facing glamping adventure

A
s the temperature soars
and the sun burns bright,
domestic and international
travellers yearn for respite
in the tranquil oasis of India. Here
are four emerging and distinctive
destinations that promise an
unparalleled blend of natural beauty,
cultural heritage, and adventure. We
also look at some classic examples
of Public-Private Partnerships (PPP) in
tourism that have added new layers
to India's tourism landscape.
GANDHI SAGAR: A HIDDEN GEM
IN CENTRAL INDIA
Nestled amidst the picturesque
landscapes of central India lies
Gandhi Sagar, a hidden gem awaiting
to be discovered by those in search
of tranquillity and natural beauty.
For adventure enthusiasts, Gandhi
Sagar offers ample opportunities
for outdoor activities. From fishing
and boating to trekking, there's no
shortage of adventure to explore the
region's diverse ecosystems.
The sanctuary, an Important Bird
and Biodiversity Area (IBA), attracts
many migratory and non-migratory
birds throughout the year. The vast
open spaces and grasslands make
it an ideal location for reintroducing
cheetahs. Furthermore, the sanctuary
translocates spotted deer from
other forest areas to increase the
prey base.
The rock art found near Gandhi
Sagar is globally renowned. Located
approximately 30 kilometres
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

from the town, the Chaturbhuj

Nala Rock Shelters stretch over a
5-kilometre trail. The destination is
being considered for UNESCO World
Heritage Site status.

THE STAY
Gandhi Sagar Forest Retreat by Evoke
Experiences presents an exceptional
river-facing glamping experience
specially designed for those looking
for wild adventure experiences.
The retreat is a classic example of
PPP in the tourism sector by Madhya
Pradesh Tourism. Evoke Experiences
is designated to lead the destination
activation with sustainable practice
efforts to enable Gandhi Sagar to
become a global destination.
Experience the breathtaking aerial view of Statue of Unity Tent City 1 illuminated at night.
GANDHI SAGAR FOREST RETREAT
O Number of Room Keys: 50
O Price Range: INR 4,000 per person
O Facilities: Water Activities, Land
Activities, Clubhouse
O Experiences: All meals included,
sightseeing included, nature trail,
night walk

THE STATUE OF UNITY: A DESTINATION

FOR URBAN WANDERLUSTS
Rising majestically against the
backdrop of the serene Narmada
River in Gujarat, the Statue of Unity
is the tallest statue in the world. It is
a tribute to Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel,
a stalwart of India's independence
movement and the country's
first Deputy Prime Minister. A tour
of the statue offers insight into Dholavira is a testament to the sophisticated civilisation of the Harappan people
Sardar Patel's life and legacy through
immersive exhibits and galleries.
The Statue of Unity offers many including river rafting, jungle safaris, STATUE OF UNITY TENT CITY 1
exciting activities for thrill-seekers and eco-tourism activities. O Number of Room Keys: 55
and adventure enthusiasts. The O Price Range: INR 6,000 per person

Skywalk, a glass-bottomed viewing THE STAY O Facilities: Clubhouse,

gallery at a breathtaking height of Nestled on the banks of the Narmada amphitheatre, swimming pool
153 metres, provides panoramic River, the Swiss cottages of the Tent O Experiences: All meals, morning

vistas, including a bird's-eye view of
the Narmada River and lush forests.
The Valley of Flowers, an expansive
botanical garden sprawling at the
statue's base, invites visitors to
meander amidst a riot of colours
and fragrances. Those seeking an
adrenaline rush can enjoy various
outdoor recreational options,
City 1 offer luxurious hospitality and
provide an ideal venue for special
occasions such as weddings and MICE
(Meetings, Incentives, Conferences,
and Exhibitions) activities. The
boutique resort, a PPP initiative by
Gujarat Tourism, continues to attract
dignitaries and visitors from around
the globe.
nature trail and sightseeing
are included
DHOLAVIRA: TELLING THE STORY OF
THE HARAPPAN CIVILIZATION
Dholavira is a testament to the
advanced culture of the Harappan
people who lived in the region during
the Bronze Age. Spread across an
expansive area amidst the intense
environment of the Great Rann of
Kutch, Dholavira comprises fortified
citadels, reservoirs, granaries, and
intricately planned streets. Guided
tours led by trained archaeologists
and historians unravel the site's
mysteries, including one of the
world's earliest and most well-
planned water conservation
systems.
Dholavira is also a sanctuary of
natural beauty and biodiversity.
Surrounded by the vast expanse
of the Rann of Kutch, the site offers
breathtaking vistas of the salt
flats. The region serves as a haven
for migratory birds like flamingos
during winter.
Dholavira is one of the 36
destinations selected for the Above: Exploring the Statue of Unity provides a glimpse into
first phase of Swadesh Darshan Sardar Patel's life; An aerial view of Statue of Unity Tent City 1

Cottages at Dholavira

2.0, a scheme by the Ministry of
Tourism to develop sustainable
tourism destinations.
THE STAY
Situated amidst the enigmatic
landscapes of Khadir Bet Island
in Kutch, Evoke Dholavira is an
upcoming unique heritage tourism
experience in the ancient Harappan
City of Dholavira. The ethereal aura
of the resort is accentuated by its
pristine white walls and distinctive
roofs, inspired by Kachchhi Bhunga's
design and the timeless grandeur of
Harappan architecture. It unearths
the ancient past with a curated
Jurassic Walk, a trail in the Wood Fossil
Park, where petrified remains offer a
glimpse into protohistoric times.
EVOKE DHOLAVIRA
O Number of Room Keys: 44
O Price Range: INR 4,000 per person
O Facilities: Clubhouse,
Near the Indo-Pak border, amid legends of valour and resilience, lies Nadabet
amphitheatre, swimming pool
O Experiences: All meals and
sightseeing are included.
NADABET: INDO-PAK BORDER THRILL
Near the Indo-Pak border, amidst tales
of glory and resilience, lies Nadabet.
The Nadabet Seema Darshan is an
immersive experience that offers
visitors a profound journey into the
heart of Indian patriotism and history.
This unique destination in Gujarat lets
one step into the shoes of courageous
soldiers and witness the echoes of the
Indo-Pak War of 1971.
T-Junction and Zero Point are
testaments to the region's significance,
offering tourists breathtaking views
and poignant reminders of the past.
At Zero Point, visitors are transported
to the frontline, standing at the closest
point to the Indo-Pak border.
The journey continues with a visit to
the Ajeya Prahari Smarak memorial,
a solemn tribute to the brave soldiers
TRAVEL PROMOTION
who displayed exceptional courage in
the face of adversity.
Delve into the rich tapestry of
history at the Sarhad Gatha Museum,
where artefacts, war weapons, and
photographs bring the stories of
courage and sacrifice to life. Nadabet
Seema Darshan is also a playground
for adventure enthusiasts with a range
of thrilling activities that add to the
excitement of the Nadabet experience.
THE STAY
As Nadabet emerges as an upcoming
destination on the tourism map, it
promises to offer travellers a truly
exciting and enriching experience.
With Evoke Experience set to unveil
an upcoming boutique Tent City, the
adventure continues, inviting visitors
to immerse themselves in the beauty
and history of this remarkable region.
Written by Debi Prasad Sahu and
Ananta Prasad
EXPLORE

SHARING THEIR

HOMES HEARTS
56 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 EXPLORE

OOTY
Left and right:
Jan Mohammed Sait
and wife Numaira Sait;

THE KELSO HOUSE

The Kelso House

FROM AN URGE TO
ESCAPE THE CITY, TO
KEEPING A FAMILY

COURTESY: THE KELSO HOUSE

LEGACY ALIVE, THESE
HOMESTAY OWNERS
HAVE STORIES TO TELL

Words ¤
ANTARAA CHATTERJEE

homestay was born," she says.
Since they were four girls, there were
various narratives about the fate of their
family legacy and how there was nobody to
carry it on. "Our father wanted to change that
narrative. To tell us that it did not matter if
he had no son," says Mariam, the third eldest
daughter, who lives in Bangalore. Their eldest
sister, Rooman, lives in Australia, while
Shahwar lives at the residence with Tazeen
and their parents.
The 200-year-old colonial bungalow in the
Nilgiris, with lush green lawns and stunning
views of the mountains, is an ideal escape for
city dwellers. Its beauty is only matched with
the warmth of the family that owns it.
In 2020, when the pandemic hit and the
furniture that are centuries old. The story of
our family is in the details of the interiors,"
says Tazeen. The collective aesthetics of the
homestay, as well as its branding, is inspired by
Ooty's ubiquitous eucalyptus.
The Kelso House has 16 rooms, each with
a distinct personality. "Because it's not a
hotel, each room is unique," says Tazeen. The
common dining area is where guests take
their meals. There is no room service; all
guests must experience what it truly means
to share a meal at home with everyone.
"Growing up, the only time we would all come
together was during the evening tea time.
Chai-biscuits, pakodas, bondas, and so much
laughter," says Tazeen. "We wanted to keep
this tradition going even with our guests."

O
NE DAY, I WAS STANDING OUT IN
our garden, and the golden rays of the
setting sun were on my face. That's
when I realised it was time to make my father's
dream a reality," says Tazeen Jan Mohammed.
Tazeen is the youngest of the four daughters
of Jan Mohammed Sait and Numaira Sait,
the owners of Ooty's Kelso House. "My father
wanted my mother to be secure. With the
uncertainty of life and the urge to keep the
family legacy alive, his dream of building a
siblings lost their grandfather, they felt the
loss echo through their beautiful home. And
amidst the chaos of the pandemic and their
SHUVRQDOORVVWKHGHFLVLRQWRĶQDOO\JLYH
wings to their father's dream came about.
After many conversations and much
convincing, their father gathered all the
resources, and they all got to work putting
together their labour of love.
"The carpets, tapestry, and furnishings all
have their own story to tell. At Kelso, we have
On days when it's just the family without any
guests, they all snuggle up on the lawn and
share a blanket as they watch the sunset. "Our
staff are the backbone of Kelso, and many of
them have been here since before we were
born," says Mariam. "Having meals in the
kitchen and chatting with them is something
we always do back home."
Address: Kelso House, Kelso Road, Kotagiri Rd,
near wax world, Kil Kodappamund, Ooty
Website: thekelsohouse.com

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 57
 EXPLORE
COURTESY: JACOB AND KLOOSTER FARMS
CHENNAI
JACOB AND
K L O O S T E R FA R M S
I
F YOU ARE DRIVING DOWN MK STALIN
Street via the Thalambur main road in
Chennai, you might stumble across a
sprawling urban farm, complete with animals.
Finding Jacob and Klooster Farms is a bit like
discovering the closet hiding Narnia.
For Shammy Jacob and wife, Charlotte van't
Klooster, their farm is a way of life. Having
worked in the fashion industry and lived
abroad, Jacob grew disillusioned with the way
we do city life. Realising how the clothing
industry is one of the most polluting in the
world, he and his wife decided to move back to
India and create their own natural paradise.
"I lived in the Netherlands for 14 years.
That's where I met my wife," says Jacob. "After
we had our two boys, I wanted to move back
to Chennai and raise them somewhere closer
to nature," he says. The family would visit
Chennai over the holidays and then go back
to the Netherlands. But in 2013, they decided
to move base permanently and set up the
farm. Their two acres of ancestral land is now
a thriving, fully functional lifestyle farm,
complete with a cafe and a shop that sells the
Top and bottom: Shammy
Jacob with wife Charlotte and
their two boys; the farmstay
local produce and also provisions from friends
and neighbours who grow their own food.
The couple converted two shipping
containers into guesthouses, with running
balconies and all the facilities needed for a
58 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
comfortable stay. One of them is suitable for
up to four guests and the other for up to two.
Recently, they have also started giving out
tents to guests who want to camp under the
stars. They also offer day bookings for picnics.
:KHQZHĶUVWPRYHGKHUHWKHFLW\ZDV
20 km away. We had no internet, not much
connectivity, but everything has gradually
grown around the farm now," says Jacob.
"The kids' school is nearby, and everything
is within accessible distance. This is
what has garnered an interest from the
schools as well."
They have a four-hour programme wherein
kids from local schools visit the farm to learn
about how it is run. "We have facilitators who
take them around the farm and tell them
about everything–from cows to chickens,
composting, planting and permaculture."
With their two kids now well-versed in the
farm lifestyle, the duo are perfectly content
with their lives. "We wanted our kids to live
with nature and understand everything
from seasonal fruits to the birth of a cow to
identifying and relocating snakes. This is
an experience they could not have gained
anywhere else in the city," says Jacob. With
their weekends usually booked, the couple
does most of their farm work on weekdays.
An innovation centre and a coaching
centre are also part of the farm. Jacob, a
FHUWLĶHG0DUVKDOO*ROGVPLWKFRDFKDQG
creative executive leader, helps individuals
and organisations maximise their creative
potential. Klooster has a PhD in traditional
knowledge of medicinal plants and teaches
anthropology to students in the Netherlands.
She holds various healing and meditation
sessions at the farm.
Beyond their successful farm venture, they
are a close-knit family who enjoy spending
time together. "When it's just us, we love
VLWWLQJDURXQGDERQĶUHZLWKRXUIULHQGVDQG
watching the kids playing under the night
sky surrounded by the sounds of nature.
The innovation centre turns into a place for
music, and it is heavenly," says Jacob.
When asked if he would like to give any
advice to people wanting to start their own
farms, he says, "You have to create your world
around your farm and not the other way
round. If you choose it to be a priority, only
then this lifestyle could work out well."
Address: New 6/122 – Old 1/300
Mk. Stalin Street, Chennai-600130
Website: jacobandklooster.com

CORBETT
TANHAU
W
HEN SUNANDO SEN DECIDED TO
ĶQGDSHDFHIXODERGHVXUURXQGHGE\
the wilderness but also with a view
of the hills, Jim Corbett National Park was the
place for him. Sometime towards the end of
2011, Tanhau came about in Bhatoli village.
Perched at 4,300 feet, at Tanhau, you can leave
the din of the city well behind and enjoy some
great views of the Jim Corbett National Park
and the Kosi River. It's a cut-off spot with the
particular patch of land locally referred to as
"Tanau," or "Tanola," all variations of the word
tanhai, meaning solitude. "That's how the
name Tanhau was thought of," says Sen.
"Camera trapping is something most of our
guests are very excited about," he says when
asked about the kind of experiences Tanhau
offers. "We do get wildlife enthusiasts and
photographers, and it's always interesting to
talk to them." He adds that he often sets up
cameras around the property at night to gather
hours of footage overnight. "In the morning,
ZKHQ,FROOHFWWKHFDPHUDZHĶQGSLFWXUHVRI
tigers, and our guests love them," he says.
Sustainability is a big goal of Tanhau, and
the operations and day-to-day functioning
of the place are rooted in principles of
sustainability, infringing as little on the
natural environment as possible. The place is
run on clean solar energy, and members of the
local community have been employed for all
construction around the place.
"The place is remote and not without its
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 59
EXPLORE
Left and
bottom:
Sunando Sen;
Tanhau
homestay
challenges," says Sen. "The nearest town,
Ramnagar, is 42 km away, and logistics are
WRXJK*HWWLQJDQ\WKLQJKHUHLVDGLIĶFXOWWDVN
,IZHQHHGVRPHWKLQJĶ[HGRUVRPHSOXPELQJ
done, it could sometimes take a couple of days
WRJHWVRPHRQHWRFRPHKHUHDQGĶ[WKLQJV6R
ZHKDYHKDGWRĶJXUHRXWKRZWRWDNHFDUHRI
most of the things ourselves here."
The last four kilometres of the road that
leads to Tanhau are an uphill dirt track and
tricky to navigate. Guests need to park their
vehicles in the nearby village, from where the
host picks them up in jeeps and takes them
to the homestay. "The adventure starts at the
very beginning," adds Sen, who leads guests
on walking safaris as well as village walks. The
area is also constantly being reforested by Sen
and his team to claim the wilderness back to
its natural state. On days when there are no
guests to tend to, he takes his six dogs for walks
and plays with them.
Address: Near Corbett Tiger Reserve,
Village Bhatoli, District Almora, Uttarakhand
Website: tanhau.in
COURTESY: TANHAU
 EXPLORE
NAGGAR
SEEKING SLOW
COURTESY: SEEKING SLOW
Top and bottom: Swati Seth; one of the rooms at Seeking Slow
S
WATI SETH WAS NEVER
fascinated by cities; it was the
mountains that always had her heart.
After leaving the city life and moving to the
hills a few years ago, she started hosting
women in her house. Hearing their stories
and learning about the market gap regarding
women-only homestays in India, Seeking Slow
Farmstay in Himachal Pradesh's Naggar was
born. "When I initially started hosting in my
previous house, it was only women because
there was just one washroom and I was not
comfortable sharing with men. But the stories
I heard from my guests spurred me to do
something, make this into a proper thing," says
Seth, co-founder of Seeking Slow and founder
of The Color Caravan, a slow fashion brand.
"So many of the women I hosted told me
KRZWKLVZDVWKHLUĶUVWWLPHWUDYHOOLQJRQWKHLU
own, and they could only do it because this was
a primarily-for-women homestay," she says.
Launched in May 2023, the Farmstay idea took
root in reality when Seth's co-founder, Richa
Tandon, came into the picture and decided to
cement it and make it happen.
"My urge to do something for women
made me say yes to Swati, who is again very
passionate about what she has been doing,"
says Tandon. "This was something I know I
would have loved to do but never really got a
chance to do before. So, when Swati came up
with this idea of a farm stay exclusively for
60 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
women, I immediately said yes."
Offering a variety of experiences for women,
Seth takes them through village walks, forest
bathing, and forest foraging and conducts
immersive craft workshops for natural dyeing,
knitting, spinning and weaving.
"I'm from Lucknow, so food is a big part of
the experience I offer my guests. Along with
the typical Lucknow-style food, both veg
and non-veg, we also offer Himachali and
continental fare," she says. Guests can also
participate in a cook-along with the host and
learn about new cuisines or eat with the locals;
the itinerary is built around whatever the
guests want to experience and, of course, on
the availability of resources.
Although born out of passion, turning
the farmstay dream into a solid reality was
arduous for Seth. "I lived in the house for
two months while the construction was still
ongoing to keep track of everything that was
happening," she says. With no domestic help,
she would take care of everything herself,
from managing the labourers to designing the
interiors, and zeroing in on every little detail.
While Tandon is a partner in the business, she
is based out of Bangalore, so Seth takes care of
the property and hosts the guests in Naggar.
,WZDVGLIĶFXOWEXWP\UHDVRQIRUZDQWLQJ
WRFUHDWHWKHIDUPVWD\LQWKHĶUVWSODFHNHSW
me going," she says. Seth shares an affectionate
bond with her guests and aims to create an
environment where women can learn and
empower each other through their individual
stories. With most of her guests comfortably
sharing their stories with her, Seth's
disposition towards them is a lot like the slow
and steady pace of the hills, which you crave
after being part of city life's madness.
"All my guests tell me how they felt as if I
was that long-lost friend they found again,"
she says. "One of them left a particularly sweet
note. She wrote how she felt seen, empowered
and inspired after her stay here. Such small but
meaningful gestures from guests make me feel
hopeful. It reminds me why I love doing this."
Perfect for women seeking the slowness in
OLIHWKHVQXJSURSHUW\KDVĶYHJXHVWURRPV
which can house up to nine guests. And you
have to be comfortable with the two resident
GRJV2OOLHDQG&KXWNL7KH\DUHWKHRIĶFLDO
mascots of the farm stay," laughs Seth.
Address: Village Nashala, P.O Larankello, Tehsil
Naggar, District Kullu, Himachal Pradesh
Social handle: Instagram/
seekingslowfarmstay

NAINITAL
S L O W N E S S H I M A L AY A S
A
SHISH GODARA AND KRITI BISHT
didn't know they would end up
marrying and starting a homestay in
the hills away from their lives in Delhi when
WKH\ĶUVWPHWLQ5DMDVWKDQ:KHQ,OHIWP\
job in 2015, I took up travelling, and I did so
extensively," says Godara. He narrates how his
travels took him to places where he would
sometimes volunteer and take odd jobs to
VXVWDLQKLPVHOI7KHQKHĶQDOO\GHFLGHGWR
stay in Bundi, Rajasthan for a while.
"I had been running a small cafe there for
the past six months, and that's where I met
Kriti," says Godara. "She was running a travel
company then and wanted to take a group to
Bundi. Since the cafe I was working at was part
of a guest house, she found me on Instagram."
The couple married in 2019, the same year
they decided to move to Basgaon, in Nainital,
Uttarakhand. It took three years for them to
build the stone house in the village, and in
WKH\ĶQDOO\RSHQHGWKHLUGRRUVWRJXHVWV
The stone house is a beautiful structure
EXPLORE
COURTESY: SLOWNESS HIMALAYAS
built in the Kumaoni architectural style using
insulated materials and building techniques
to keep temperatures in control. They
collaborated with local masons to construct
the home. The stone house is characterised by
conscious design elements, while curtains in
the four rooms are crafted from indigenous
kala cotton and dyed with pomegranate peels.
"My wife is a natural dyer, and she has a
studio on the property where she conducts
sessions for guests as well," says Godara. Bisht
also manages their sprawling Ayurveda farm.
The food at the homestay is all vegetarian,
with most ingredients sourced from their
SHUPDFXOWXUHIDUP:KHQZHĶUVWPRYHG
here, we felt like outsiders," says Godara.
"Warming up to the locals was challenging
DWĶUVW%XWLW VEHHQĶYH\HDUVDQGWKLV
is our home now, so we feel like a part of
the community."
Address: Village Basgaon,Suyalbari,
Top and bottom: The stone house; District Nainital, Uttarakhand
Ashish Godara and Kriti Bisht Website: slowness.in
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 61
 THREADS OF CHANGE
In an exclusive interview,
Nand Kishore Chaudhary,
Chairman and Managing
Director of Jaipur Rugs,
shares the story behind
the brand, his journey
and more

F
or ages, the skilled artisans
of India have bent diligently
over their looms, weaving
intricate carpets that grace
floors worldwide. Yet, amidst their
craftsmanship lay tales of hardship.
Bound by debt and trapped in
exploitative systems, these weavers
toiled tirelessly, their labour repaid
with meagre sums that barely sufficed
for life's necessities. This cycle of
exploitation went on for long, casting
a shadow over their dignity and
perpetuating a legacy of struggle.
However, in the late 1970s, Nand
Kishore Chaudhary emerged as a
beacon of change. Witnessing the
plight of these underpaid weavers,
many belonging to marginalised
communities, he founded "Jaipur Rugs,"
a social enterprise aimed at their
upliftment. Beginning with nine artisans
and two looms in his hometown of
Churu, Rajasthan, Chaudhary's vision
has blossomed. Today, Jaipur Rugs
empowers over 40,000 home-based
artisans across 600 Indian villages,
with women comprising a significant
majority at 80 per cent. Through this
initiative, each woman involved in
carpet weaving earns a respectable
monthly income ranging from INR
10,000-20,000, reflective of her skill,
experience, and the intricacy of her
creations. In this interview, Nand Kishore I opted out of the conventional path. Thus, my journey began, transforming
Chaudhary, Chairman and Managing Driven by a passion for community their artistry into a beacon of hope and
Director of Jaipur Rugs, shares insights empowerment, I embarked on a journey empowerment for their communities.
into this transformative journey. of self-discovery. Immersed in the
world of rural artisans, their talent and „ As a pioneer within the textile
„ Can you share the inspiration societal challenges moved me. This industry, what key initiatives have you
behind your journey into textiles and realisation fueled my commitment undertaken to minimise environmental
sustainable development? to elevate their status and showcase impact and promote ethical sourcing?
In 1978, faced with a career-defining their craftsmanship globally. I resolved Jaipur Rugs pioneers environmental
choice between joining my father's shoe to provide sustainable livelihoods and stewardship and ethical sourcing in
business or becoming a bank cashier, respect to these marginalised artisans. its industry. Focusing on sustainability,

it champions locally sourced natural
materials like wool, silk, and cotton,
reducing ecological impact and
promoting eco-conscious practices.
Traditional dyeing methods using
natural sources underscore its
commitment to sustainability. Water
conservation efforts and investments
in recycling technologies reflect its
dedication to resource management.
Energy-efficient machinery minimises
carbon emissions, while waste
reduction strategies and recycling
programs mitigate landfill waste.
Certification by OKEO TEX highlights
its sustainable practices. Jaipur Rugs
fosters environmental awareness
through community engagement,
empowering local communities towards
a sustainable future.
„ India boasts a rich cultural heritage.
How do you integrate traditional
craftsmanship into your modern textile
production processes?
Our rugs exemplify meticulous
craftsmanship, employing centuries-
old techniques like hand-knotting and
hand-weaving, refined over time. Skilled
artisans intricately weave each rug,
drawing inspiration from Indian motifs
and cultural symbolism and infusing
them with unique narratives. While
rooted in tradition, we integrate modern
innovations to enhance efficiency
and quality. This includes leveraging
technology for design, quality control,
and distribution management. By
blending tradition with innovation,
we maintain the highest standards
at Jaipur Rugs, honouring India's rich
cultural heritage.
„ Your company has empowered many
rural artisans. Could you tell us about
the impact of this initiative on local
communities and how it aligns with
your vision for sustainability?
Jaipur Rugs empowers rural
artisans through economic, social,
and environmental initiatives.
The "Hunarshala" program fosters
children's holistic development and
upskills women, promoting equality.
Our Social Innovation & Design Lab
encourages creativity, while leadership
programs equip women artisans. Amid
COVID-19 challenges, skill development
programs ensured sustainable
livelihoods. Grassroots leadership
initiatives boost confidence and
financial literacy and aid in accessing
banking services. Through integrated
efforts, we champion empowerment,
sustainability, and inclusive growth.
Partnering with Dhun, Jaipur, for 'Tread
Softly,' we innovate traditional weaving
techniques, enriching artisans and
advancing textile innovation.
„ Your work involves preserving
traditional weaving techniques. How
do you balance innovation with the
preservation of these age-old crafts?
At Jaipur Rugs, we innovate to sustain
ancient weaving techniques while
meeting modern demands. Our
approach empowers artisans through
skill development, preserving tradition
Nand Kishore Chaudhary, Chairman and MD of Jaipur Rugs with women workers
while adapting to sustainable materials.
We integrate technology like digital
design tools, enhancing efficiency
without compromising craftsmanship.
Sustainability is paramount; our
"Manchaha" range repurposes
yarns into rugs, minimising waste.
Collaboration with design houses
fosters creativity while honouring
tradition. This balance ensures our
cultural heritage endures, keeping
Indian textiles relevant. Innovation
empowers artisans to share their
stories, meeting contemporary needs
while preserving tradition.
„ Travellers often seek authentic
experiences. How can sustainable
tourism initiatives support and
promote local artisans and their crafts?
As the founder of Jaipur Rugs, I'm
proud of our commitment to fostering
connections and celebrating rural
TRAVEL PROMOTION
cultural heritage. We engage students,
designers, and consumers worldwide
in immersive experiences, exploring
the artistry of traditional rug-making.
"Knots of Compassion" promotes
rural tourism, connecting visitors with
artisans and fostering genuine bonds.
Personal experiences in artisan villages
underscore the transformative power
of human connection. We're inspired to
create more opportunities for cultural
exchange, ensuring the legacy of
artisanal craftsmanship endures.
„ Lastly, could you share with our
readers a memorable experience
or encounter during your journey in
promoting sustainable development
and preserving cultural heritage
through textiles?
The journey of our "Manchaha"
initiative epitomises our dedication
to sustainable development and
cultural preservation through textiles.
Founded in 2010 by my daughter
Kavita, "Manchaha" faced challenges
but soared when our carpet "Antar"
won the German Design Award in 2016.
This accolade catapulted "Manchaha"
onto the global stage, showcasing
rural artisans' ingenuity and fostering
international connections. Witnessing
its transformative impact on artisans
reaffirms our commitment to
sustainability and cultural preservation.
Grateful for the support, we continue
this empowering and creative journey,
making "Manchaha" a symbol of
community empowerment and
artistic innovation.
 NAGALAND

TEA, TATTOOS, AND

TRADITION
PHEJIN KONYAK—
WHOSE ANCESTRY
TRACES BACK TO
HEADHUNTERS—RUNS
THE ONE-OF-A-KIND
KONYAK TEA RETREAT
IN NAGALAND

Words ¤
KARTIKEYA SHANKAR

T
UCKED AWAY IN THE
village of Shiyong, about an
hour and a half from Mon
in Nagaland's northeast,
lies the Konyak Tea Retreat.
Lodged within the sprawling
250-acre Sayeang Tea Estate, a private tea
PHOTOGRAPH: PETER BOS

plantation, it offers a unique glimpse into

a world beyond the ordinary. While the
farmhouse might seem familiar, its owner,
Phejin Konyak, adds a distinctive touch.
Phejin is a member of the Konyak tribe,
one of the last Naga groups to embrace
Christianity. Headhunting, a practice that Phejin with an elder of the Konyak tribe
continued until the 1970s, is an inseparable
part of their history. Konyaks believed achievements but also as a form of identity ethnographer to document the region
the soul force resided in the human skull, and a celebration of life stages. during British rule, relied on Ahon's
making heads powerful trophies that could Even more intriguing, Phejin is the expertise as an interpreter. A glimpse of this
settle disputes and bring power to the great-granddaughter of Ahon, a tattooed rich heritage still lingers in Mon district.
village. Taking a head was a rite of passage headhunter who played a crucial role in In the local market, you might encounter
for young men, a prerequisite for adulthood. J.H. Hutton's 1923 book "Diaries of Two elders adorned with facial and body tattoos,
Tattoos served not only as a mark of these 7RXUVLQWKH1DJD+LOOV+XWWRQWKHĶUVW colourful beads adorning their necks, and

64 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4

impressive animal tusks in their ears.
"In late 2014, I began hosting guests at
my farm to raise money for researching
my tribe's disappearing tattoo tradition.
For almost four years, I travelled to Konyak
villages in Nagaland, India, and Myanmar's
Sagaing Region. In between these trips,
I welcomed guests to the farm. Meeting
people, learning about different cultures,
and sharing my tribe's heritage became
my passion," said Phejin, who has authored
a book called, "The Konyaks: Last Of The
Tattooed Headhunters" (2017).
PHOTOGRAPH: YAPANG KONYAK
Konyak Tea
Retreat
is lodged
within the
Sayeang Tea
Estate
NOT JUST A HOMESTAY
At the Konyak Tea Retreat, two bedrooms,
one with a double bed and the other with
twins, offer comfortable sanctuaries after a
day of exploring. Each comes with its ensuite
bathroom. The interiors celebrate local
heritage, with cane and wood furniture and
tribal paintings. The heart of the farmhouse
lies in the open kitchen. Here, conversation
ķRZVIUHHO\DVPHDOVDUHSUHSDUHG2SHQ
shelves with pots, kettles, and various
utensils exude a rustic charm. Outside the
kitchen is a garden and vegetable patch.
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 65
EXPLORE
"My farmstay stands out for its setting
amidst a bustling tea plantation. Here,
JXHVWVĶQGSHDFHDPLGWKHOXVKJUHHQHU\
while immersing themselves in the daily life
of the farm alongside locals," said Phejin.
"We hire local youths, often school
dropouts, as cooks, cleaners, helpers, and
gardeners. We showcase handmade crafts
from local artisans—crafted from bamboo,
wood, or tea—and offer guests the chance to
purchase these items directly," she added.
3KHMLQĶQGVVRODFHLQFRQQHFWLQJ
with guests from all walks of life. "In my
homestay," she said, "our guests become a
part of our lives. We cook and share meals
together and talk about our cultures,
experiences, and interests. It's these personal
connections that create lifelong friendships."
CHALLENGES AND CONCERNS
"Running a homestay isn't without its
challenges," Phejin admitted. "Sometimes,
guests arrive with preconceived notions
and compare our facilities to what they're
accustomed to in urban areas. We've had
requests for things like McDonald's fries
and KFC chicken for dinner, which are
unavailable here."
Fortunately, these instances are rare.
The vast majority of guests at Konyak Tea
Retreat are open-minded and adaptable.
Phejin thrives on creating a welcoming
environment where guests can experience
local delicacies and immerse themselves in
the unique Konyak culture.
CONNECTING WITH CULTURE
If you are looking to delve deeper into
the world of Konyak tattoos, Phejin has a
wealth of knowledge on this vanishing art
form. Those interested in tattoo traditions
DQGWKHLUDUWLVWLFVLJQLĶFDQFHZLOOĶQGKHU
insights captivating. While the homestay
doesn't offer tattoo services, her passion
can provide a unique window into this
aspect of Konyak heritage. "The tattoo
practice," she explained, "was intricately
linked to headhunting, a tradition that
has ceased in recent decades. With these
changes, the art of tattooing has sadly begun
to fade." Phejin's mission is to document
this vanishing art form, not just the visual
elements but also the accompanying oral
traditions before they are lost forever.
Address: Konyak Tea Retreat, Shiyong Village,
Mon, Nagaland; konyaktearetreat.com
Rafting on the rapids of
the Ganga in Rishikesh
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

HIMALAYAN
HEIGHTS
In the shadows of the high Himalayas, take a slow, green
holiday this summer… Along the way, discover why eco
journeys are much more rewarding than you thought!

By SHEETAL VYAS

L
ong before ‘tourism’ as we know it
came into existence, Uttarakhand
drew the most intrepid travellers
to its glacial gates in the
Himalayas… From itinerant traders to
spiritual seekers, who travelled light
and spent days at every pitstop along
the way to truly experience the beauty
of a place and the love of its people.
If the modern traveller takes a leaf
out of their books today, and travels
in a way that is gentle on the planet,
Uttarakhand promises to reward
her with the most immersive, most
unforgettable journeys.
ELEMENTAL RUSH
Rishikesh—Tons Valley
The mighty Ganga is always
exhilarating. Add the thrill of rafting
or kayaking over her speedy white
waters, and it becomes a memorable
adventure. The runs at Rishikesh
can be of varying lengths, starting
from beginner-level 1-day trips.
The 25-km stretch ranges from
gentle to challenging with over 12
rapids of grade 3+. Expeditions India
(expeditionsindia.com) offers exciting
3-day and 5-day trips. The former
starts 90km upstream from Rishikesh
going up to Alaknanda. The 5-day trip
hazards some of the most technical
and challenging white waters on the
Alaknanda with rapids of grades 4 to 5.
As for trekking, amidst the wide
range of choices Uttarakhand
provides, the Tons Valley, with the
pretty River Rupin gurgling through
it, is an underrated gem. Tons Trails
(tons.travel), which began to operate
out of a small village called Kalap
now works with local communities in
37 villages and offers many treks and
experiences.
Rishikesh is 263 km/5hrs from Delhi
and Tons Valley is 183kms/6½hrs
from Dehradun
 A traditional Kumaoni Thali

The St. John in the Wilderness Church, set

amidst the lush Deodar forests near Nainital

WHERE THE PAST MEETS THE the beautiful homestay, La Villa Landour is just 6km/30min from
PRESENT Bethany (www.lavillabethany.com) Mussoorie.
is an excellent stay option. The British
Nainital—Mussoorie—Landour built a sanatorium here in 1827, which THE FORESTED PATHS
The British colonial rule of India has is now occupied by the Institute of
left marked traces in Uttarakhand. Technology Management. Binsar—Ramgarh
The scenic, salubrious Kumaon and The magnificence of the Kumaon
Garhwal regions provided strategic Nainital is 36km/1¼ hrs from hills is best experienced at Binsar.
locations for their military. No doubt Kathgodam. Mussoorie is A mountainous spot forested with
these architectural buildings are 35km/1½hrs from Dehradun and pine, oak and rhododendron, filled
remnants of an imperialist and
exploitative regime, but they are
a mark of India’s fortitude and The Lesser Yellownape at the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary
resilience too.
The peaceful Soulitude by the
River (soulitude.in) in village Chanfi
is the perfect perch from which to
explore the surrounding areas. In
Nainital, the Governor’s House is
a grand 1899-built, Gothic-styled
mansion standing on 220 acres. The
fine Anglican church St John in the
Wilderness is worth a leisurely visit.
Mussoorie too is steeped in colonial
heritage. The legendary Mall Road still
has colonial-era buildings and the
beautiful Christ Church, Mussoorie
Library and the Savoy Hotel are
notable places of interest.
Even more steeped in Irish and
English history is the charming
vintage town of Landour, with its
quiet lanes and old cottages. Here,

with birdcall as one walks the
dappled slopes. This is a superb
vantage for majestic views of the
range of Himalayan peaks from
Yamunotri in Garhwal to Mt. Nampa
in Nepal. Binsar Forest Retreat
(binsarforestretreat.com) is a
gorgeous, eco-friendly homestay
within the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary.
Surrounded by wilderness, it
affords stunning views of the higher
Himalayas. There are some lovely
winding trails in the sanctuary as well.
The hill station of Ramgarh near
Nainital also has trees… the ‘Fruit
Bowl of Uttarakhand’ is known for
its orchards. Peaches, plums, pears,
apples, apricots and cherries. Then
there are plantations of malta, lime,
gooseberry and strawberry. Needless
to say, there are fabulous views
everywhere. Neemrana’s restored
19th-century English bungalows
(neemranahotels.com/the-ramgarh-
bungalows-kumaon-hills-nainital)
are an excellent stay pick.
Binsar is 25km/1hr from Almora;
and Ramgarh is 36km/1½hrs from
Nainital.
LOCAL FARE
Nag Tibba—Bhimtal—Ranikhet
Farm to Table. The concept of
sourcing food locally and supporting
local agriculture isn’t just a
sustainable practice, it’s a culinary
high. Uttarakhand has some stellar
ways to achieve it.
The Goat Village (thegoatvillages.
com) in Nag Tibba, Garhwal strives to
maintain the symbiotic relationship
between tourism, culture and nature.
Visitors can plough the fields, pick
berries, meet the locals and of course,
feed the goats. They can sit around the
quintessential Indian Chulha, watch
the food being cooked and be served
right away, each morsel infused with
wood smoke and pahadi flavours. Take
a detour if you can to the corn village
of Sainji too, near Mussoorie.
TRAVEL PROMOTION
The Retreat at Bhimtal
(theretreatbhimtal.in) is a
family-owned 19th-century
colonial bungalow that will delight
foodies. First-class dining with a
choice of local, Indian or Continental
cuisine. The ingredients meals are
fresh and locally sourced, prepared
with home-grown herbs. There are
unlimited jams and marmalades
to choose from and of course,
seasonal fruit.
The Pahadi Organic
(thepahadiorganic.com) in Kumaon,
is driven by local community
involvement. Rustic, earthy Garhwali
and Kumaoni delicacies, organic
ingredients from the surrounding area,
and all of it made the traditional way.
Nag Tibba is 76km/3hrs from
Mussoorie. Bhimtal is 22km/1hr
from Kathgodam and 24km/1hr
from Nainital. The Pahadi Organic is
on the Ramnagar–Ranikhet Road,
8km/15min from Ramnagar.
The Corn Village of Sainji, near Mussoorie
 TTERSTOCK
PHOTOGRAPH: SHU EXPLORE

F O R E S T
 EXPLORE

DISCOVER THE INCREDIBLE

WILDLIFE AND NATURAL
WONDERS OF INDIA WITH
UNIQUE AND IMMERSIVE
EXPERIENCES AT THESE
ECOSTAYS THAT PRIORITISE
CONSERVATION AND
RESPONSIBLE PRACTICES

COURTESY: BERA SAFARI LODGE

Words ¤ PIYALI SEN

Clockwise from left: Conservationist and naturalist Shatrunjay Pratap Singh;

a shepherd with his flock at Bera; the new Suite Cottages

NDIA BOASTS SEVERAL BREATHTAKING PLACES THAT ARE COMMITTED TO

promoting conservation while nurturing local communities through tourism.
These amazing ecostays offer guests the opportunity to experience wildlife up
close while striving to protect the animals and their habitat. Visitors can take
guided tours led by knowledgeable local guides, get involved in community-
Left: A majestic based conservation projects, minimise their environmental impact, and actively
tiger at the Panna
participate in initiatives that protect delicate ecosystems and diverse wildlife.
Tiger Reserve,
where The Sarai at +HUHLVRXUSLFNRIĶYHVWD\VZKHUH\RXNQRZWKDW\RXUYLVLWLVFRQWULEXWLQJWRWKH
Toria is located conservation of the environment and the protection of local communities.

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 71
 EXPLORE

BERA SAFARI LODGE

W
ildlife conservationist, naturalist and sommelier
Shatrunjay Pratap Singh was on a visit to his ancestral
farm in the Jawai region when he heard a loud blast.
Upon enquiring, locals told him about the mines that had been
allotted by the government. "This landscape is all granite,"
he explains. "And later on, we came to know that around 140
mines had been planned in the area, and nobody was doing
anything about it. With the help of the forest department, we
went to the high court and got all those mines cancelled. And I
started Bera Safari Lodge."
The Bera area is well-known for being home to leopards.
According to forest records, these big cats have been living in
this region for more than a century. The mountainous terrain
provides a suitable habitat for them. Additionally, the local
community of Rabaris are tribesmen who follow the Shiva
religion and have domestic livestock in the area. This makes for
a plentiful supply of prey for the leopards, as per Singh.
Singh, who has worked with Sula, is a leopard expert who
has been studying these animals for many years. He wakes up
early to do a recce before taking guests on a tour of the area.
He is also a co-author of the book "Leopards & Shepherds
RI-DZDLDQGKDVĶOPHGGRFXPHQWDULHVVXFKDV:LOG&DWV
of India," "Living with Predators," "Big Cat Kingdom," and
0DVWHUVRI'LVJXLVH&RPSHOOHGWRĶQGDZD\WRSURWHFWWKH
wildlife that he loved seeing, he goes on regular walks and
drives to keep track of the area. He is particular about guest
etiquette, like banning single-use plastic and not allowing
littering. "Guests should be mindful of the age of children
accompanying them. Some families bring kids who are not
even old enough for the zoo."

THINGS TO DO

Visit the Jawai Dam, where you'll get to witness a diverse range
of migratory and resident bird species, such as Sarus Cranes,
Ospreys, Pelicans, and Bar-Headed Geese. Another exciting
activity you can look forward to is a bush drive, which will
take you through a variety of landscapes in open-top safari
jeeps, giving you the opportunity to see wildlife in their natural
habitat. You can also experience the unique charm of Jawai The Sarai at Toria is
by going on a rural village excursion. Here, you'll encounter the vision of husband
the captivating Rabari herders and witness their harmonious and wife duo Joanna
coexistence with wildlife. Alternatively, opt for a tour of the Van Gruisen and Dr
wilderness of Jawai on an exhilarating cycling adventure. Pedal Raghu Chundawat,
through pastoral fields, where wild grasslands meet the waters who have a passion
of Jawai Bandh. for wildlife and
conservation
Address: Leopard Safari Road, Next to Liloda Temple,
Kothar Village, Bera, Rajasthan
Website: berasafarilodge.com

72 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4

THE SARAI AT TORIA
S
peaking about The Sarai at Toria,
Joanna Van Gruisen says, "I should
mention that the Sarai was not
set up to be a wildlife lodge." A half-
hour drive from Khajuraho airport, the
Sarai At Toria has been named after the
neighbouring village of Toria. Located
on the banks of the River Ken, opposite
the Panna Tiger Reserve, the place is run
by Dr Raghu Chundawat, a conservation
biologist, and Van Gruisen, a former
ZLOGOLIHGRFXPHQWDU\ĶOPPDNHU$
couple with a passion for wildlife and
conservation, they aimed to establish
a sustainable livelihood in the central
Indian region and carry out research and
community conservation programmes.
Chundawat's main studies have been on
snow leopards and tigers. His pioneering
ten-year research on tigers took place
in the Panna Tiger Reserve and has
been immortalised in the BBC Natural
World documentary, "Tigers of the
Emerald Forest".
"We created it as an environmentally
appropriate place to stay for visitors
to Khajuraho—at the time, it had very
urban generic accommodation and was
known in the tourism industry as a
one-night stay," says Van Gruisen. "We
aimed to change this and to show there
THINGS TO DO
The Ken is a major river in the Bundelkhand
region that flows through the Panna Tiger
Reserve. It has a reputation for being one
of the cleanest rivers in India and supports
wonderful aquatic and avian wildlife.
Among the activities you can sign up for
are bird and village walks around the camp,
along the river edge, through the crop fields
to Toria village or even just around the
COURTESY: THE SARAI AT TORIA
grasslands and forest of the compound.
You can also visit the 1000-year-old,
intricately carved temples in Khajuraho, a
World Heritage Site only half an hour from
Sarai at Toria. The Panna Tiger Reserve is
one of India's most dramatic scenic parks
and an excellent place to see a variety
of central India's wildlife. "One USP is the
fabulous zen-like boat ride we can offer on
the river Ken," says Joanna. "Recently, a
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 73
EXPLORE
was so much more to the area than just
the UNESCO World Heritage temples.
The Tiger Reserve was, of course, one of
these, but it is only one of more than a
dozen other possible activities available
to the tourist. Our aim has always
been to showcase wildlife and nature
beyond the tiger and to minimise its use
in publicity."
Sustainability and responsibility are at
the core of the project. Van Gruisen and
Chundawat were determined to create
an environmentally friendly haven,
so they set out to build cottages with
locally available construction materials
using traditional techniques acquired
from the local villagers. These ensured
that the cottages would stay cool in the
summer and warm in the winter. The
place composts all its wet waste and has
an organic garden. And they educate
local children on the importance of
wildlife conservation. The Sarai at Toria's
conservation programmes are operated
through their trust, Baavan, Bagh Aap Aur
Van—named after the tigress who was the
matriarch of Panna during Chundawat's
research study there. The long-term
objective is to create satellite areas
through inclusive conservation models,
using tourism as an economic driver.
young wildlife photographer came and had
incredible luck in the national park, having
wonderful sightings of tigers, leopards,
and even a mother sloth bear with a baby
riding her back amongst all else. Yet when
I saw the comment she had left in the
visitor's book, it said, "The boat ride was
the highlight of the trip."
Address: Mela Wali Galli, Village Toria,
District, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh 471101
Website: saraiattoria.com
 EXPLORE
WILDERNEST
A
"wildlife corridor" that allows for the
free movement of large mammals
like tigers, leopards and wild dogs,
the Mahdei region is wedged between the
tri-state boundaries of Goa, Karnataka and
Maharashtra. The region is ecologically
important but rich in minerals, too— a
dangerous trait for any forest. A trip to the
region 20 years ago had prompted Captain
Nitin Dhond, a merchant navy captain and
Managing Director today, to rescue it from
the pressures of timber and mining lobbies
and cash crop monoculture planters. His
vision brought together a team of nature
lovers and wildlife professionals, including
Nirmal Kulkarni, a herpetologist and ecologist,
to create a dream project that initiated
environmentally-conscious tourism in Goa.
"Wildernest Nature Resort was based on
the sound principle of 'minimal interference'.
We wanted to create a natural aesthetic and
infrastructure that blends well with the
location—a task that took years to plan and
execute," says Kulkarni. Braving rough weather,
arduous terrain, a shortage of skilled workers
and dwindling resources, the construction
phase lasted four years. Today, the place
consists of 22 eco-cottages, a restaurant
serving local cuisine, a beautiful ionised
LQĶQLW\SRROWKDWXVHVPLQLPDOFKORULQHDQG
74 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
an Ayurvedic rejuvenation centre.
A decade and a half after it started
operations, and having declared its 900
acres of forest a private sanctuary called
Swapnagandha Valley, Wildernest has not
only protected vital forests but has also
succeeded in curbing wildlife poaching to a
large extent and saved the catchments area of
two important tributaries of the Mahadayi
river—the Halatar nallah and the Valvanti river
in Karnataka and Maharashtra respectively. In
keeping with its "minimal interference" policy,
WKHUHVRUWLWVHOIWDNHVXSRQO\ĶYHDFUHVRQWKLV
sprawling property.
"I see the evolution of the resort from being
a space for nature tourism to a venture that
provides an alternative livelihood for locals

whose lands were ravaged by mining and timber
lobbies," says Kulkarni. "Wildernest has been
at the forefront of promoting Acacia and other
recycled wood for infrastructure, a trend that
is now being emulated across South India. In
addition, we have our own bio-waste plants
that create manure, a strict implementation of
plastic reduction, and a recycle and reuse policy."
Initiating wildlife documentation and
UHVHDUFKSURMHFWVZLWKWKHKHOSRIĶHOG
biologists and ecologists has helped generate
YLWDOGDWDRQWKHķRUDDQGIDXQDRIWKHUHJLRQ
"Since we began work, three new species
of caecilians (an order of amphibians that
VXSHUĶFLDOO\UHVHPEOHHDUWKZRUPVRUVQDNHV 
have been discovered here besides two species
of frogs and a scorpion."
THINGS TO DO
The resort provides an array of experiences,
including nature walks, treks, village visits,
folk dances and other activities. For those
who simply want to unwind, there isn't a
better setting. Walk in the realms of nature
accompanied by naturalists and treat yourself
to a visual experience of the magic of the
Western Ghats. Listen to the sounds of
endemic birds and the alarm call of a Giant
Squirrel or, better still, swim in the crystal
clear waters of a cascading waterfall. Their
bonfire sessions are the beginning of long
friendships between the local community
naturalists and guests. Sharing and narrating
jungle lore is the only requisite here, while
tasty forest roots and shoots are roasted
over a slow bonfire. Special encounters with
reptile experts, butterfly and bird watchers,
and ecologists from various fields are a bonus
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 75
EXPLORE
COURTESY: WILDERNEST
Clockwise from left: The pool area at
Wildernest; Nirmal Kulkarni; One of the
naturalists at a waterfall
at Wildernest as they provide first-hand
experience with the subject experts and the
subjects themselves. Their pottery studio is a
fun learning activity centre for the young and
old. An art and craft centre is also attached to
this studio, where local and traditional craft
is promoted. Drive away into unchartered,
off-the-road destinations that are home to
ancient cultures and endangered wildlife.
Address: Chorla Ghat, off Sankhali,
Chorla, Virdi, Goa 403708
Website: wildernest-goa.com
EXPLORE
RENI PANI LODGE
A
t the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, in the
buffer zone of Satpura National Park,
the wilderness experience is not
restricted only to safari timings. Spread across
32 acres of native forest, with a seasonal
stream and rugged hill trails, the lodge is a
microcosm of the Satpura habitat. The lodge
is managed by naturalists, and all the service
staff are locals, which means that nature
and wildlife are the primary focus here.
Aly Rashid, a member of the Bhopal royal
family, was inspired by his love for wildlife
to establish and operate Reni Pani Jungle
Lodge and has been leading the naturalist
team at Reni Pani for over seven years. "We
believe that sustainable eco-tourism is a
great conservation tool," says Rashid, Director
& Field Naturalist at Jehan Numa Wilderness.
He is a trained naturalist and ornithologist
Left and below: Aly Rashid; Interiors
of a cottage at Reni Pani Lodge
COURTESY: RENI PANI LODGE
76 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
who has extensively travelled across the
country and has been involved in wildlife
conservation efforts in various locations.
"Almost 15 years ago, when we started Reni
Pani, it was a degraded farmland on the edge
of a forest. With careful regeneration of the
native forest, the lodge is now a micro-habit,
not just for the smaller fauna like birds and
insects but also as a corridor for large fauna
like leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, and even
tigers," says Rashid.
Everything at Reni Pani is tastefully discreet,
and its architecture is inspired by the local
Gond style. Every attempt has been made to
blend in with the surroundings. The cottages
DQGOX[XU\WHQWVĶWVHDPOHVVO\LQWRWKLV
wilderness, cleverly concealed amidst swathes
of bamboo and teak to afford absolute privacy
as well as an unhindered jungle experience.
"We employ passionate naturalists who not
only guide guests on safari but also impart a
world of knowledge to the traveller through
exploring Satpura in unique ways like walking,
canoeing, camping and horseback riding. It is
our endeavour to offer a wilderness experience
that is both enriching to the customer and
driven by result-bearing conservation values,"
says Rashid.
THINGS TO DO
Explore the Satpura National Park and Tiger
Reserve with knowledgeable naturalists
and guides. At Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, the
focus is on non-motorised ways of exploring
the landscape, including walking, canoeing,
cycling, and camping safaris. The naturalists
at Reni Pani will take you kayaking on the
Tawa Reservoir. Water is central to life in the
Satpuras, and many places here are named
after it, including the village of Reni Pani, where
the reni bush proliferates. There is a plethora
of birds to ogle at here, including some revered
visitors, like the bar-headed geese from Ladakh.
Address: Sohagpur, Raini Pani,
Madhya Pradesh 461771
Website: jehannuma.com/reni-pani-jungle-
lodge-satpura-resort/

KEN RIVER LODGE
K
en River Lodge is a pioneer in wildlife
tourism in India. Shyamendra Singh,
the grandson of the Maharaja of Nagod,
founded the lodge in 1986 out of his passion
for wildlife and conservation. Despite being
ZDVKHGRXWWZLFHGXHWRķRRGVRQFHLQ
1992 and then again in 2005, the lodge was
rebuilt with the same zeal and passion. The
lodge is located in a 50-acre forested estate
and built with natural materials sourced
primarily from the neighbouring villages and
VXUURXQGLQJDUHDV<RXĶQGWKHUK\WKPRI
preservation, community, and a commitment
to a thriving ecosystem in every heartbeat
of Ken River Lodge," says Singh. "The lodge-
inspired many, many people—local, regional
and international. And this is because of the
nature-culture experience that Ken Lodge
philosophises—how to balance nature,
communities, people and economic interests.
This mix allowed Ken River Lodge to thrive,
prosper and contribute in many positive ways.
The lodge provides an opportunity for
guests to delve into nature while learning
about conservation efforts and sustainability
practices. It allows guests to reconnect with the
diverse landscapes, wildlife and communities.
The lodge's dedication to sustainability is not
limited to preserving pristine landscapes,
but it also involves supporting the local
communities. "Embracing the essence
of eco-lodges, we've not only preserved the
natural environment but woven a tapestry
of empowerment for Madla and surrounding
villages," says Singh.
Their policy of hiring junior staff from the
local community has become a cornerstone,
fostering employment and contributing to
WKHLUĶQDQFLDOZHOOEHLQJ1XUWXULQJORFDO
artisans, from masons to carpenters, plumbers
to electricians, sustains and strengthens the
community's economic vitality.
The lodge has been a pioneer in many areas.
Their involvement in the relocation of tigers
demonstrates their commitment to protecting
these majestic creatures. They have launched
LQLWLDWLYHVWRVDIHJXDUGWKHVHPDJQLĶFHQW
beings, which stand as a testament to their
enduring dedication. "We introduced night
and walking safaris in India, marking a
transformative shift by moving people
away from poaching and deforestation and
towards embracing preservation for enhanced
livelihoods," says Singh.
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 77
EXPLORE
N RIVER LODGE
COURTESY: KE
Left and above: The lodge is set
in a forested estate of 50 acres;
Shyamendra Singh
From the otherworldly geology and
botanical diversity to the fantastic animals
that call it their home and the ancient temples
of Khajuraho, the lodge is an experience not to
be missed.
THINGS TO DO
Enjoy a carefree boat ride on the mesmerising
Ken River with a hands-on rowing experience
by our local boatmen. The river ecosystem
offers great opportunities for bird watching,
especially in the winter months when there
are innumerable migratory birds. The Jhinna
Safari Camp is an hour's drive through the
Panna Tiger Reserve from the lodge and is
run by local villagers, offering three mud huts
built in the local village's architectural style.
Night Safaris are offered, which extend an
opportunity to see the nocturnal life. The
lodge also boasts a 3,000 sq. ft. Machaan,
known as the Tree House, where meals are
served. It overlooks the Ken River and offers
fresh, home-cooked meals.
Address: Panna National Park,
Village Madla, 1/2 Km from
Madla Police Station, Panna,
Madhya Pradesh 488001
Website: kenriverlodge.com
Wild & Wonderful
Escapes
Flamingos in Point Calimere Bird and Wildlife Sanctuary
 TRAVEL PROMOTION

T
amil Nadu is renowned for its vibrant culture, ancient
temples, and picturesque landscapes. Yet, away from
its bustling cities and historic sites lies a realm of
untamed wilderness, waiting to be explored. Home to
the natural wonders of the region and wildlife sanctuaries rich
with biodiversity, Tamil Nadu is an ideal stomping ground for
wildlife enthusiasts of every stripe!

Go Birdwatching at Dawn
The wildlife sanctuaries here, like the Vedanthangal Bird
Sanctuary, beckon birdwatchers and photographers with its
diverse avian population. Imagine cozying up in a bird hide or
climbing up the watchtower, surrounded by chirping melodies
and flapping wings. You’ll be amazed by the range of species,
from graceful pintails to lively grey wagtails, thriving in their
natural habitat. Don’t forget to bring your binoculars, camera,
and plenty of time to wander at leisure in this peaceful paradise,
which is a sanctuary for birds, and a haven for us humans too.

Discover Rare Beauty

The wild frontiers of the state invite intrepid explorers to
uncover its hidden treasures. While taking a stroll along the
winding paths amidst the tropical dry evergreen forests, you
might encounter majestic Indian gaurs, wild boars, or even
catch a glimpse of the majestic Bengal tigers. You should also
keep your eyes peeled for rare orchids and medicinal plants
that thrive in these pristine environments known for their rich
botanical heritage.

Dakshin
Foundation
In the field of wildlife conservation in Tamil Nadu, Dakshin
Foundation has made great strides in both environmental
preservation and sustainable development, along the
vast coastline of the state (and beyond). Recognising
that coastal communities are intricately connected to the
ocean and its resources for their livelihoods, Dakshin works
hand-in-hand with them to promote sustainable practices
that are good for all. Through its wing Dakshin Endeavours,
the outfit also uses travel as a tool to educate children
about nature, and make them curious about and kinder
towards their fellow inhabitants on the planet.
 HIMACHAL PRADESH

AMIDST SPITI'S TOWERING PEAKS AND BARREN

LANDSCAPES, THESE HUMBLE ABODES SERVE AS
BRIDGES BETWEEN CULTURES, FOSTERING MEANINGFUL
INTERACTIONS AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES

Words ¤ ASHISH KOTHARI AND SHRISHTEE BAJPAI

Photographs ¤ ASHISH KOTHARI

Clockwise from left:

A room in Fa-Ma
Home Stay in Kaza;
Thinley Home Stay
hosts Tanzin Thinley
and Tanzin Kunzang;
View of the Kaza
Monastery from the
Fa-Ma Home Stay

80 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 EXPLORE

AT HOME IN

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 81
 HIMACHAL PRADESH

AT MINUS FIVE DEGREES, WE STEPPED

out to look for snow leopards. It had been
snowing for the last few days—the paths and
ĶHOGVZHUHFRYHUHGLQWZRIHHWRIVQRZ,WZDV
quite a workout for our legs, and at an altitude
of 4,200 metres, for our lungs. We were in
Spiti, a term meaning "middle land," a trans-
Himalayan landscape between Tibet and the
rest of India. Our guide was Tanzin Thinley, a
homestay owner and a worker with the Nature
Conservation Foundation—he had promised
to show us the iconic cat, a promise we
IHUYHQWO\KRSHGZDVIXOĶOOHGIRURWKHUZLVH
he had resolved to go on fast.
Spiti, part of Himachal Pradesh, has a
cold desert ecosystem, with most of its
precipitation coming down as snow. Its
landscape is jagged, hilly, and treacherous,
with broad, cultivable valleys in some
parts. Its unique biodiversity includes
snow leopards, ibex, blue sheep, red foxes,
and several bird and plant species adapted
to the cold.
a valuable source of income for families, heaters placed in the centre of the room) or
COMBINING NATURE AND CULTURE particularly during agricultural lulls. This WKHOHVVFRPPRQHOHFWULFKHDWHUV2QWKHĶUVW
As we walked and half-slipped down a slope, has encouraged local youth to remain in night we reached, piles of razais and blankets
we were already nostalgic about the warmth the village, pursuing these opportunities were offered to us, as well as hot water bags,
of the home we had just left behind. It was the instead of migrating for employment. and that night's sleep was about as snug as
Thinley Home Stay in the village of Kibber, "We learnt about homestays and their one could want.
one of the last villages on the traditional trade management on a trip to Uttarakhand,"
route to Ladakh and Tibet. While walking, said Thinley. "Then friends from Bangalore GOING LOCAL
Thinley mentioned that about 15 years ago, encouraged us, helped publicise us, and Before Kibber, we were in Kaza, a bustling
Kibber initiated homestays to combine nature slowly, we started getting tourists. They also settlement, which houses the main
and culture as a tourist experience. advised us that many visitors want to stay in JRYHUQPHQWRIĶFHVIRU6SLWLLWVPDMRUPDUNHW
In recent years, tourism from the rest of traditional houses, not new cement-concrete and many tourist establishments. While
India and different parts of the world has ones." Thinley's house, where he has added a nowhere as near as picturesque and homely
increased due to better road connectivity ķRRUIRUYLVLWRUVUHWDLQVWKHORRNDQGIHHORI as Kibber, it had its attractions, including
and the region's myriad attractions. This the functional stone-mud architecture for a relatively new monastery, the Spiti river
has resulted in about 46 homestays in the which Spiti is famous. running like a black snake through a pure
80 households in Kibber. Furthermore, Kibber's homestays typically have two to white expanse of banks, a thousand or so
numerous homestays and accommodations eight rooms. The Thinley Home Stay has four, Yellowbilled choughs (a bird from the crow
have emerged in the divisional town simply but comfortably furnished, all with family) doing aerial acrobatics every morning
serving Kibber and nearby areas, offering either the traditional bukhari ZRRGĶUHG and evening. Here, our hosts were a couple—

82 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 EXPLORE

Clockwise from
left: A snow
leopard pair in
Kibber; View of
snow-carpeted
Kaza from the
roof of Fa-Ma
Home Stay;
Fa-Ma Home
Stay hosts
Kulzang Uma
and Thuktan
Chhopal with
son Nima

Kalzang Uma and Thuktan Chhopal—running
the Fa-Ma Home Stay (Fa stands for father,
Ma for mother). Located opposite the Kaza
Gompa, the homestay exteriors are nothing to
ZULWHKRPHDERXW WKHUHLVDWKLUGķRRUXQGHU
construction to add to the four rooms already
available to guests), but the interiors are
tasteful, comfortable, and spacious.
At both the Kaza and Kibber homestays,
we were asked if we preferred local cuisine or
standard dal-chawal-paneer kind of food. The
former consisted of the region's typical thukpa
soup with vegetables and barley or wheat
dumplings, fermented khambir roti (bread)
and samba (barley malt) for breakfast, momos,
black pea curry, and the like.
Our Fa-Ma hosts even prepared a lip-
smacking Kullu region dish, siddu, momo-
like dumplings with crushed walnut, garlic,
onion, local ghee, and spices, and a curry made
of purple potatoes that turned black when
cooked. Thinley told us that many foreigners
and Indians ask for local dishes, but since
barley can be heavy, simple rice-lentils are
always available.
Chai and coffee are also readily served,
white or black, sugary or sugarless, and salt tea
if requested.
PRIORITISING ECOLOGY
Despite the huge potential for income
generation, Kibber residents are aware of
the possibility of tourism going beyond the
region's carrying capacity. They are discussing
norms and rules, and Thinley and others
have formed a Kibber Sustainable Tourism
Association to enforce these. "Money is not
everything; if our biodiversity is destroyed
or the environment is polluted by excessive
tourism, then it is counter-productive," he said.
This sense of ecological and social
responsibility is hardly prevalent in much of
the tourism enterprise in the Himalayas; it
is not clear how much it permeates even the
homestay initiative. There is an explosion of
premises calling themselves "homestay"—we
saw such boards in virtually every settlement
from Spiti through Kinnaur to Shimla. Some
looked like standard lodges rather than rooms
in someone's home.
7KHKRPHVWD\SURJUDPPHĶUVWLQLWLDWHG
in Ladakh, was born from a simple concept:
merge the aspiration for improved incomes
with showcasing local life to visitors while
preserving the environment and culture
vital to tourists and the community. As we
left Himachal Pradesh, we hoped that such
a sense would enter every such enterprise—
and beyond that, in the tourism sector
as a whole.

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 83
 DISCOVER STUNNING ECOTOURISM
DESTINATIONS IN TAMIL NADU
Experience the wonders of nature and wildlife while being mindful of the
surroundings by visiting these amazing ecotourism destinations

Valparai is home to
several tea and coffee
plantations

Photo credit: C. Samayamoorthy

 TRAVEL PROMOTION

E
cotourism is a responsible
A traditional coracle floating on
and sustainable way of
Mannavanur Lake
travelling that emphasizes
the conservation of natural
resources and the well-being
of local communities. It involves
nature-based activities where the
primary motivation is to observe
and appreciate the natural beauty
and traditional cultures present in
the natural areas. If you're planning
a sustainable holiday, consider
bookmarking these eight ecotourism
destinations in Tamil Nadu for an
unforgettable experience.

VALPARAI
Located in the serene embrace of the
Anaimalai range in the Western Ghats,
Valparai is dotted with plantations
of cardamom and cinchona. The
region boasts several charming
old bungalows transformed into
atmospheric accommodations that
beckon weary travellers. Embarking
on a scenic drive from Coimbatore,
you'll encounter the famous 40 hairpin
bends that add an element of thrill to
your journey. Enjoy panoramic views of

Photo credit: C. Samayamoorthy

misty mountains as you stroll through
tea gardens. Learn about the tea-
making process and savour a cup of
freshly brewed tea amidst the serene
surroundings. Visit the Anaimalai Tiger
Reserve, formerly the Indira Gandhi
Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park,
to embark on a wildlife adventure.
Home to endangered species like civet
cats, tigers, panthers, wild boars, and
spotted deer, the reserve also offers Mudumalai Forest
a treat for bird enthusiasts with the
presence of the Black-headed oriole
and the racket-tailed drongo. memorable picnic with loved ones. km from the Kodai Valley, it is a part
You can also explore the eco-park of Palani hills and boasts winding
MANNAVANUR or venture into the local farmlands. trekking trails.
Escape to the tranquil haven of Here, farmers practice terrace-
Mannavanur in the Dindigul district, style farming, cultivating crops like GULF OF MANNAR MARINE
enveloped by breathtaking emerald carrots and cabbages, offering a NATIONAL PARK
valleys and lush farmlands. Just 34 unique glimpse into their traditional One of the main attractions of the
km from Kodaikanal, the journey is techniques. mesmerizing Coromandel Coast is
a mesmerising experience with lush Nestled amidst the serene Kodai hills the Gulf of Mannar Marine National
greenery and picturesque vistas. The lies the village of Poombarai, offering Park, which is South Asia's first marine
crystal blue waters of Mannavanur a feast for the eyes with its stunning biosphere reserve. It has three distinct
Lake provide a serene setting for a terraced landscapes. Located 35 coastal ecosystems: coral reefs,

Indian Hornbill captured at Valparai (above)
seagrass beds, and mangroves.
The Gulf of Mannar is home to
thousands of species of plants and
animals, making it one of India's
richest coastal areas. BNHS-Birdlife
International has designated the
national park as an Important Bird
Area due to its unique bird species.
Recently, the IUCN has recognized
this region as an Important Marine
Mammals Area of the World because
of its high population of dugongs and
other marine mammals.
Located in the Gulf of Mannar
Marine National Park is the Kurusadai
island, a marine paradise that
attracts nature enthusiasts, marine
scholars, and biologists. Take a
guided tour to witness the vast array
of marine life here. The island is home
to over 3,000 aquatic creatures.
Imagine exploring the shoreline
and spotting vibrant red starfish,
prickly sea urchins, and docile sea
cucumbers.
SCAN HERE
To watch the
videos of
Gulf of Mannar
CAIRN HILLS
On your next holiday, take
advantage of the opportunity to
experience the breathtaking beauty
of Cairn Hills. Nestled in the Western
Ghats, the British developed this
168-hectare forest in the 1860s,
and later, it was converted into
an ecotourism centre. It boasts
an orchidarium, an educational
facility, and an interpretation centre.
The hanging bridge, built atop the
hills, offers children and adults an
enchanting experience. The trekking
trails are perfect for refreshing your
mind, while the settlements and
agricultural lands add to the charm
of the landscape. Cairn Hills is also
a haven for birdwatchers, with rare
species like the Indian Hornbill,
Malabar Pied Hornbill, Crested
Serpent Eagle, and the Black and
Orange Flycatcher. The watchtower
here offers a panoramic 360-degree
view of the landscape. Coimbatore,
around 87 km away, offers easy
access via trains, buses, flights, and
private cabs.
KANNIYAKUMARI WILDLIFE
SANCTUARY
Kanniyakumari, the southernmost
tip of India, is not just about pristine
beaches. It is also home to one of the
most remarkable wildlife sanctuaries
in Tamil Nadu. The Kanniyakumari
Wildlife Sanctuary was declared
a protected area in 2008. The
sanctuary has an incredible diversity
of flora and fauna and is also known
as a tiger reserve. The Indian Bison,
Elephant, Nilgiri tahr, Sambar Deer,
Lion-tailed Macaque, and Indian
Rock Python are some animals that
call the sanctuary their home. The
place also boasts several species of
plants, and the natural vegetation
of this region represents southern
thorn forests, dry deciduous, moist
deciduous, semi-evergreen forests,
and evergreen hill sholas with grassy
downs. With seven rivers originating
in this forest, including the famous
Pahrali and Thamirabarani rivers, the
sanctuary is a treat for the eyes and

the soul. It is a perfect place for those
seeking a peaceful retreat amidst
nature's bounty.
POINT CALIMERE WILDLIFE AND
BIRD SANCTUARY
Located in Nagapattinam district,
Point Calimere Wildlife and Bird
Sanctuary was established in
1967 to protect and conserve the
endangered blackbuck antelope,
which is endemic to the Indian
subcontinent. The picturesque
sanctuary, located 11 km away from
Vedaranyam, is home to various
ecosystems such as mangroves,
tropical evergreen forests, and
grasslands. You can also find
the ruins of an 8th-century brick
lighthouse dating back to the
Chola Empire. Birdwatchers, this is
a veritable paradise for you, with
over 250 species of birds being
recorded, including the vulnerable
species, Spoonbill Sandpiper
(Euryhorhynchuspygmaeus) and
Grey Pelican (Pelecanusphilippensis),
and Greater and Lesser Flamingos.
MEGHAMALAI
Meghamalai is a stunning hill
station in the Western Ghats in Theni
district. The name "Meghamalai" is
derived from two Tamil words: Megh,
meaning clouds, and Malai, meaning
mountain. This name is very fitting
as the region is usually covered
in a thick layer of fog that glides
over the hills and tea plantations.
Meghamalai is, also known as
PacchaKumachi in Tamil, translates
to "green hills". The mountain range
is 1,500 meters above sea level
and is made up of dense forests
and numerous cardamom and tea
estates. If you are looking for a slow
TRAVEL PROMOTION
travel experience, Meghamalai is the
perfect destination. Stroll through the
misty landscapes and visit the tea
estates, coffee plantations, and spice
gardens. Established in April 2021, the
Meghamalai Tiger Reserve combines
the Srivilliputhur Grizzled Squirrel
Wildlife Sanctuary and Tirunelveli
Wildlife Sanctuary. From the Manalar
Dam, you can enjoy breathtaking
views of the Cumbum Valley. Suruli
Falls is another must-see attraction
in Meghamalai. This two-stage
cascading waterfall falls from a
height of 150 feet, collects in a pool,
flows for a short distance, and then
drops another 40 feet. Regardless
of the season, Meghamalai Falls
is always a visual treat that never
fails to amaze. While exploring this
beautiful region, watch for wild
animals such as elephants, gaur,
and spotted deer.
Photos credit: C. Samayamoorthy
Lush tea plantations in Meghamalai
 EXPLORE

IMMERSIVE
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

88 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 EXPLORE

UNSEEN

INDIA
I
NDIA OFFERS A RANGE OF INCREDIBLE HAVE YOU EVER GONE
experiences, which also happen to be gentle on the planet, FORAGING IN THE DESERT?
thus proving that travel can be more than just an escape; OR LEARNT POTTERY WITHOUT
it can be a means to connect, learn, and contribute to
A POTTER'S WHEEL? ON YOUR
preserving cultural and natural heritage. The true essence
of travel lies not just in the destinations but in the
NEXT TRIP, TRY SOMETHING
connections—with the locals, the environment, and the YOU'VE NEVER TRIED BEFORE
stories that become a part of your narrative. We hope this
list of curated, immersive experiences and the inspiring
stories behind them propels you to rediscover India. Words ¤ NABIHA TASNIM

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 89
 EXPLORE

COURTESY: ENCHANTING MAJULI; HABITAT INSTITUTE ACTIVITY CENTRE; QUEST ACADEMY; THE LODGE AT WAH (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)

Clockwise
from top: Local
weavers using
traditional
weaving methods
in Majuli; The
water pool at
the end of the
hike with the
Habitat Institute
Activity Center; A
windsurfer at the
Quest Academy;
Travellers during
a tea-tasting tour
at Wah Tea Estate

HIKING TO AN ANCIENT
LAVA STREAM
Habitat Institute Activity Centre,
Andaman & Nicobar Islands
What comes to your mind when you think of
the Andamans? Pristine blue waters, powdery
golden sand and days spent lazing in the sun,
right? And just like every other tourist, I had
already done all these. So, when I returned to
the islands this time, I was on a mission to
explore beyond the usual.
And an apt opportunity arose at the dinner
WDEOHGXULQJP\ĶUVWQLJKWWKHUH:HZHUH
suggested a trek through Havelock Island's
secluded, untamed rainforests. The next
morning, we headed out to see a side of the
islands that we didn't even know existed.
'XULQJWKHĶUVWKDOIRIWKHKLNHZHH[SORUHG
WKHLVODQG VXQLTXHķRUDDQGIDXQDDQG
how they adapted to the local ecosystem to
ensure their survival. And the tiniest detail
didn't escape us, thanks to the expertise of
award-winning naturalist Anurag Karekar
and his team from the Habitat Institute
Activity Centre—Hussain, Chahat and Aditya,
who led the hike. Together, they had years of
experience studying the ecology of the region.
The trail was scenic, and as we hiked up
further, we were greeted by the soothing
VRXQGRIZDWHUķRZLQJWKURXJKWKHIRUHVW
What awaited us was a lesson in evolution on
how the islands were formed, natural pools
of fresh water and a "private jacuzzi" formed
by centuries-old volcanic rock formations.
The humidity of the island made us all dive
into the water immediately. On our way
back, due to fresh rainfall, we encountered
several tricky bits where the trek had become
slippery. But Anurag and his team were
thoroughly prepared. They had already set up
rappelling ropes on the trail, which enabled
us to climb down smoothly. They made us
feel comfortable, constantly supporting us
where needed and were thorough with their
safety measures.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
Guests can book the Ancient Lava Stream
Hike amongst a range of activities offered
by the Habitat Institute Activity Centre and
can choose to stay at the Seashells Resort
(seashellhotels.net/activities). Havelock or
Swaraj Dweep Island can be reached by private
or government ferry from Port Blair. The best
time to visit is between October and March.
WINDSURFING IN THE SEA
Quest Academy, Ramanathapuram
The southern Indian coastal town of
Ramanathapuram, which is close to
Rameshwaram, has access to the pristine blue
waters of Palk Bay and the Gulf of Mannar.
Here, Quest Academy offers the perfect spot
to get started on some thrilling, low-impact
water sports.
)URPND\DNLQJWRZLQGVXUĶQJVQRUNHOOLQJ
and sailing to scuba diving and stand-up
paddling, guests at Quest Academy are spoilt
for choice. All the activities offered at the
Academy use non-motorised power-paddle,
pedal or wind. Led by Jehan Driver, the focus
here is on helping everyone—the brave,
the bold, and even the reluctant punters—
discover the joys of adventure while raising
awareness about the triple bottom line of
VXVWDLQDELOLW\óSHRSOHSODQHWDQGSURĶW

90 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4

Through its Ocean Ambassadors
Foundation, Quest Academy organises regular
outreach and training programmes for the
coastal community to provide them with an
alternate source of income. Quest also does
regular beach cleanups and have popularised
"trash for cash," where local children can pay
them in the trash in exchange for activities.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
Ramanathapuram is 2.5 hours away from the
nearest airport in Madurai. While doing their
short four-day courses, you can stay at the
natural cottages built using local materials
like coconut thatch, palm and silver teak.
The best time to visit Ramanathapuram is
between October to March. (quest-asia.com)
TEA TASTING IN THE
HIMALAYAN FOOTHILLS
The Lodge at Wah, Palampur
Moving on to the serene hills of Himachal
Pradesh, we arrive at The Lodge at Wah in
Palampur. At the Lodge, which has more
than 70 years of history, the hosts are
fourth-generation planters and high school
sweethearts Surya Prakash and Upasana
Todi Prakash. Take part in the tea tour if you
want to know about the journey of tea from a
shrub to a teacup, learn more about the people
who pluck your tea, or acquaint yourself with
the traits of a tea sommelier. After a walk
through the tea gardens and a brush with
history, you can witness the withering, rolling,
fermenting, drying and sorting processes
involved in the manufacturing of tea. Then,
move on to sample a range of freshly brewed
teas of different varieties and learn insider
tips of making the perfect cuppa. You can also
taste authentic Himachali food if you ask for
a Kangri dhaam, which includes local dishes
like kala chana khatta, teliyama, jimikand
madra and meethe chawal.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
Palampur is accessible from Kangra Airport or
a 10-hour drive from Delhi. You can stay at an
eco-friendly homestay on the 500-acre farm.
The best time to visit Palampur is between
September and November and March and
April (www.thelodgeatwah.com).
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 91
EXPLORE
LEARNING POTTERY WITHOUT
A POTTER'S WHEEL
Enchanting Majuli, Majuli
Did you know that India has the world's
largest river island? At 352 sq km, the Majuli
island on the Brahmaputra River is the largest
river island in the world, and not only that,
it is also the only island in India that has
become a district. Steeped in history and
culture, Majuli is truly a world unto itself.
"Tourists come to the Northeast and see
waterfalls, rhinos and sunsets. But no one
visits the local villages or walks into the
forests," says Julie Kagti, Founder of Curtain
Call Adventures, who is changing this
perspective, one trip at a time. Julie brings
travellers to learn and experience one of the
most well-preserved traditions of the island's
vibrant community—its unique, ancient
pottery-making practice without a potter's
wheel. The passion of the potters for their
craft clearly shines through as they continue
to adopt the technique in accordance with
their limited access to resources. Their story is
a shining example of the proverb, "Necessity
is the mother of invention," as they did not
let their remote location deter their spirits or
passion for their craft.
The indigenous Mishing community is also
known for their beautiful handloom weaves.
The intricate patterns require a lot of precision,
and the locals are exceptionally skilled. You can
engage with them and learn more about their
craft. Also, grab this opportunity to learn how
to weave a scarf or stole.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
Majuli, being a river island, is only accessible
through ferries and boats via Jorhat. The
curated experience can be booked standalone
or as part of a larger trip around Northeast
India through Curtain Call Adventures
(curtaincalladventures.com). Guests can
choose to stay at Enchanting Majuli or Jyoti's
Homestay. The best time to visit Majuli is
during the dry months of October to February.
LEARNING PERMACULTURE
TIEEDI Forest Garden, Darjeeling
En route to the historic Hill Cart Road that
connects Siliguri with Darjeeling, you will
ĶQG\RXUVHOIDW7,((',DVHOIVXIĶFLHQW
regenerative, zero-waste experiential stay
and earth school. TIEEDI Forest Garden offers
 EXPLORE

a unique co-living experience with nature,

COURTESY: TIEEDI FOREST GARDEN, DARJEELING

where you can enrol in a permaculture course
focussing on natural farming at Dzomsa, the
classroom at the TIEEDI Forest School. Pause
and immerse in the surrounding nature as
you take inspiration behind the name TIEEDI,
which is an abbreviation for "Take it easy, easy
does it" from an old Ladakhi folk song.
As founder Utsow Pradhan puts it, "At
7,((',RXUYLVLRQLVWRĶJKWIRUSXUHDLU
fresh water and rich soil for all beings."
Driven by this, the team is committed to
sharing an experience where guests travel
and live differently while learning the ropes
of sustainable land and building solutions,
decentralised waste management and
regenerative tourism.
You can complete the permaculture course
DQGJHWDFHUWLĶFDWH2UH[SHULHQFH7,((',
as a short-term stay, where you can go on
village walks, hike to surrounding waterfalls
and birding trails and sample the local
Newari cuisine.

TRAVEL LOGISTICS
TIEEDI is an hour's drive from Darjeeling
and easily accessible by road. You can stay at
an earth dwelling, a garden room or a shared
dormitory here. The best time to visit TIEEDI
is between March and June (instagram/
tieediforestgarden).

VISITING A MUSEUM OF
MEMORIES
Hundurman Museum, Kargil

Amidst the rugged terrains of Kargil, the

Museum of Memories in the village of
Hundurman opens up a window into the
lives of people who have survived four wars
and lived under the rule of two countries.
The village's unique architectural style and
connection with the 1971 war prompted
this museum's opening. A joint initiative of
Roots Ladakh, a local travel company, CEPT
University and the villagers of Hundurman,
the museum houses several rare artefacts,
including French coffee tins, identity cards,
coins and traditional jewellery. When asked
what could potentially be the oldest preserved
part of the museum, co-curator Muzammil
Hussain shares, "It might be the building
which houses the museum itself. It is believed
to be more than 300 years old."
What makes the Hundurman Museum
truly unique is the opportunity to interact
Utsow Pradhan, Owner, TIEEDI Forest Garden, Darjeeling with produce from the farm
with the local Purigpa tribe. With a current
population of about 39,000, the Purigpas are
the original inhabitants of Hundurman. You
can have a traditional meal of local Purigpa
and Balti dishes with the museum host, Iliyas.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
To have an immersive experience, guests
can witness all that the museum has to offer
through a curated tour hosted by Roots
Ladakh (rootsladakh.com). Visitors can further
choose to stay at either the local homestay at
Hundurmaan or travel 30 minutes away to
book a stay at the Black Sheep B&B in Kargil.
To reach Hundurman, the nearest airport is
in Leh. From Leh guests can take a long and
VFHQLFGULYHRIDERXWĶYHWRVL[KRXUVWRJHW
there. The best time to visit is between May
and October.
STARGAZING AT A VILLAGE
AND MONASTERY
Cosmohub, Phyang
A sky full of stars awaits you in the beautiful,
quaint village of Phyang, barely 20km from
Leh. A dark, star-studded night sky is a true
rarity for city dwellers like us. But not when

92 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
Read • Think • Understand
 EXPLORE
COURTESY: COSMOHUB; KANER RETREAT; HUNDURMAN MUSEUM (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT)
you are at the Cosmohub, an experience centre
on the periphery of a 700-year-old monastery
perched on a hill. Stargazing is a low-impact,
nature-based activity that has brought the
community together and motivated local
women to lead the change. About 34 local
women have been trained in astronomy
and now lead the tours. With the advantage
of the Himalayan dark sky and minimal
light pollution, the stargazing experience at
Phyang is unparalleled.
"There were many other women in the
village, too, who weren't trained in astronomy,
yet they wanted to be a part of the project, and
ZHKDGWRĶQGDZD\VKDUHV6RQDO$VJRWUDD
Founder of Astrostays and CosmoHub. So,
while CosmoHub was designed to celebrate
the cosmos, as its name suggests, it now also
celebrates local pashmina handicrafts and
apricots and farm-fresh Ladakhi dishes made
by local women. It's also paired with a guided
tour of the Phyang monastery, which is not a
particularly popular pitstop.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
Book the experiences through Cosmohub
from June to September. Stay at Astrostay,
an astronomy-focused homestay in Phyang
village or Leh, about 30 minutes away.
(astrostays.com/cosmohub).
FORAGING IN THE DESERT
Kaner Retreat, Hapusar
,QGLD VĶUVWGHVHUWERWDQLFDOLQVSLUHGUHVRUW
94
Clockwise from
top left: Local
astronomers leading
a tour as part of
Cosmohub; Local
ingredients used for a
modern Marwari meal
at Kaner Retreat; The
Museum of Memories
Kaner Retreat, stands majestically amidst the
golden sands of Hapusar. Named after the
2OHDQGHUķRZHURUGHVHUWURVH.DQHUKDVEHHQ
brought to life by long-time Thar resident
Sapna Bhatia.
For instance, if you've ever wondered how
locals sustain themselves in a desert, you can
sign up for Kaner's tour of the "oran" or sacred
grove. The tour is a wonderful excuse to go
foraging in a "wasteland" while decoding the
mysteries of famine foods and discovering
the truly unique cuisine of the Thar. Local and
seasonal ingredients like ker and sundried
vegetables are prominent in-house dishes.
You can also experience a cheese-tasting
session with cheeses made from camel milk,
including cream cheese and feta, sourced
locally from Camel Charisma, a social
enterprise providing income opportunities for
the traditional camel herding communities.
You can sample a 5-course meal inspired by
O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
PRGHUQ0DUZDULķDYRXUVWRR2URSWIRUDQ\
of the other wild and wonderful experiences
and exquisite meals on offer, including a lunch
at an olive farm or dinner in the dunes after a
VSRWRIVWDUJD]LQJ$W.DQHUWKHLQķXHQFHRI
the desert botanicals is omnipresent, from the
food served to the decor in the rooms.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS
Hapusar is accessible by road from Jodhpur,
which has the nearest airport and railway
station. The best time to visit is from
October to March when the desert is
pleasantly cool. To truly make the most of
the trip, consider Kaner's Thar Unplugged
itinerary, where apart from the culinary
experiences, you can also take guided nature
walks, indulge in plant-based wellness
sessions, and enjoy stargazing, birdwatching
and safaris in the desert wilderness
(kanerretreat.com).

GEAR UP FOR A SNOW LEOPARD
EXPEDITION WITH COLUMBIA'S ESSENTIALS
Get ready for a snow
leopard adventure with
Columbia's essential
outdoor gear, ensuring
comfort and safety
on expeditions across
rugged terrains
I
n February of this year, a pioneering
four-year estimation effort unveiled
that India is home to an estimated
718 snow leopards in their natural
habitat. These elusive felines, known for
inhabiting rugged mountainous regions
that are challenging to reach, now have
a foundational population count in India
for the first time.
Ladakh leads with the highest
estimated number of snow leopards
(477), followed by Uttarakhand (124),
Himachal Pradesh (51), Arunachal
Pradesh (36), Sikkim (21), and Jammu
and Kashmir (9). This latest estimation
suggests that the Indian snow leopard
population comprises approximately
10-15 per cent of the global total.
For wildlife enthusiasts, this revelation
has ignited a desire to embark on an
adventure to witness these elusive
creatures. As interest in snow leopards
continues to surge, prospective
adventurers seek guidance on
preparing for such an expedition. For
those eager to venture into the realm of
these enigmatic creatures, Columbia—
an American company specialising
in outdoor gear—offers indispensable
essentials to ensure a safe and fulfilling
journey. Here's a look at some of them.
FAST TREK II FULL ZIP FLEECE
This fleece is designed to elevate
your travel experience. Whether
you're exploring city streets or rugged
terrains, it effortlessly adapts to varying
climates. Thoughtful details such
as thumbholes and binding at cuffs
ensure a snug fit for uninterrupted
comfort during your adventures. It
is an indispensable companion with
convenient hand pockets to keep
fingers warm, offering warmth and
Fast
Trek II
Full Zip
Fleece
functionality for every journey.
LABYRINTH LOOP HOODED JACKET
This puffer jacket is designed to
redefine warmth and style on your
outdoor adventures. Crafted with
recycled synthetic down insulation
and enhanced with a gold thermal-
reflective lining, it ensures optimal
cosiness during cold hikes. Its perfectly
packable nature allows easy storage
without compromising on the loft
while maintaining warmth even in wet
conditions.
PEAKFREAK II OUTDRY SHOES
Engineered with waterproof-breathable
OutDry construction, this trekking
shoe ensures a high-traction ride in
any weather. Experience unparalleled
comfort as you hike, thanks to its
responsive, cushioned midsole
providing stable support. Achieve
the perfect fit with a lacing system
that ensures a natural midfoot lock-
down while seamless mesh delivers
exceptional support.
PASSO ALTO III HEAT PANT
Discover the perfect blend of warmth
and functionality with these innovative
pants, engineered to keep you cosy
TRAVEL PROMOTION
Newton
Ridge 36L
Backpack
Peakfreak II
Outdry Shoes
and dry in any weather condition.
Featuring thermal-reflective lining and
advanced repellency technology, they
ensure optimal comfort and protection
against the elements. Stay active
and make your moves easily, thanks
to the flexible comfort stretch fabric
that allows unrestricted movement
throughout the day.
NEWTON RIDGE 36L BACKPACK
Gear up for your next hiking expedition
with this bagpack designed to
withstand the elements. Crafted from
rain-and-stain-resistant fabric, they
ensure durability and protection on
the trail. Stay organised and prepared
with multiple pockets in front and back,
allowing you to conveniently carry all
your essentials as you embark on your
outdoor adventures.
OTHER COOL ITEMS TO PICK
z Midweight Stretch Long Sleeve Top
z Midweight Stretch Tight Bottom
z Stainless Steel Insulated Vacuum
Hydration Bottles
z Trail Shaker Beanie
z Aluminium Trekking Pole Grill
z Men's Ascender II Softshell Glove
 TRAVEL
LIGHT,
LIVE CLEAN

HEALING THE HIMALAYAS

THE GREEN SHEEN

A TOAST TO THE CHANGEMAKERS

OF REPTILES AND ROCK ‘N’ ROLL

OT HALL OF FRAME
 GREEN
LIVING

TURNING
TABLES

AS MORE CLIMBERS TRAVERSE

the Himalayan peaks of the Indian
subcontinent, the amount of garbage
left behind is fast becoming a problem
for the regional ecology and indigenous
communities. The Avni Center for
Sustainability and the Nepal Knotcraft
Centre hit upon the idea of turning non-
recyclable waste like ropes and cooking
gas cans into jewellery boxes and table
mats. In the deft hands of women from
the Tharu community, waste becomes
wealth and provides an economic lifeline
for underserved communities. The
world is changing rapidly as the climate
heats up, but the women of the Tharu
community show us that we can make a
positive planetary difference by getting
our hands dirty and thinking outside
the box. Our new section, Green Living,
will bring you closer to the people, places
PHOTOGRAPH: TANKA DHAKAL

A craftswoman holds a and organisations that exemplify the

decorative item made truest sense of living sustainably, one
of discarded climbing that factors in people, ecosystems and all
rope interwoven with
Moonj, a traditionally manner of creatures to ensure their long-
harvested wild grass term survival and wellbeing.
 COLUMN GREEN LIVING
KEEPING THE HILLS CLEAN
W
ITH ITS RICH CULTURAL
heritage, diverse landscapes
and vibrant communities,
India has become a sought-
after destination for domestic
and international travellers.
+RZHYHUDVWRXULVPķRXULVKHVWKHUHLVDQHHG
to embrace sustainability practices to ensure
the long-term well-being of the environment
and local communities.
The United Nations World Tourism
2UJDQLVDWLRQGHĶQHVVXVWDLQDEOHWRXULVP
as an approach that considers the economic,
social and environmental impacts of tourism
activities while also addressing the needs
of visitors, the travel and tourism industry,
the environment and host communities.
,QHVVHQFHLWVHHNVWREDODQFHWKHEHQHĶWV
of tourism with the preservation of natural
resources and cultural heritage.
India's tourism potential is immense, but
so are the challenges it faces in ensuring
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
Tourism in the Himalayas has surged in the last decade
98
PRADEEP SANGWAN
that growth is sustainable and inclusive.
Recognising this, the government has taken
VLJQLĶFDQWVWHSVWRSURPRWHVXVWDLQDEOH
tourism practices. The National Strategy for
Sustainable Tourism, formulated in 2022, aims
to mainstream sustainability in the tourism
sector and ensure more resilient, inclusive,
FDUERQQHXWUDODQGUHVRXUFHHIĶFLHQWWRXULVP
However, achieving sustainable tourism
goals requires more than just government
action. It necessitates collaboration among
stakeholders, including government bodies,
businesses and local communities. While
the government plays a crucial role in policy
formulation and implementation, businesses
DQGLQGLYLGXDOVDOVRKDYHDVLJQLĶFDQWSDUWWR
play in driving sustainable tourism practices.
,QWKHODVWGHFDGHWRXULVPLQIDUķXQJ
locations in the Himalayas has increased
manifold. At Healing Himalayas, we have
LGHQWLĶHGORFDWLRQVZLWKVXEVWDQWLDOWRXULVW
footfall in the upper Himalayan region,
O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
such as the Atal Tunnel in Lahaul and Spiti,
to set up material recovery facilities (MRF)
with a storage capacity of 100 tonnes. While
streamlining solid waste to MRFs and further
for recycling is a tedious job, we have achieved
a circular supply chain in waste management.
We have already set up six MRFs, with three
more becoming functional this year. We are
also setting up community centres in two
locations this year to host tourists, travellers
and volunteers for an experiential tenure.
7KLVĶYHWRVHYHQGD\SURJUDPPHZLOOLPSDUW
an understanding of how an MRF functions
and provide hands-on experience in door-to-
door waste collection and segregation. From
a cultural point of view, we will introduce
visitors to local festivals and weddings,
while from an adventure travel perspective,
we will offer trekking and camping
opportunities.
Individual travellers can make a
difference by adopting responsible
travel habits. This includes
researching and planning trips
responsibly, choosing eco-friendly
transportation options, respecting
local cultures, and supporting local
artisans and businesses. Businesses
operating in the tourism sector can
contribute to sustainability efforts
by adopting eco-friendly practices,
collaborating with local communities
to create economic opportunities and
supporting conservation initiatives.
Pradeep Sangwan, the founder and
promoter of the Healing Himalayas
Foundation, is committed to clearing tourist-
generated waste in the Himalayas
Experience the essence of Bengal's culinary heritage at Aaheli, where
every dish, from signature delights to our sumptuous thali, offers a
journey through tradition and flavour that's simply unparalleled.

Open for lunch and dinner at Peerless Hotel Kolkata,

Sarat Bose Road and Axis Mall.

Reserve your experience: 9831780403 / 9831780405

 GREEN LIVING

HOW GREEN
IS GREEN?

THE PHENOMENON OF GREENWASHING INVOLVES DELIBERATELY

FALSIFYING INFORMATION ABOUT THE GREEN CREDENTIALS OF A PRODUCT,
SERVICE OR COMPANY. WHAT CAN TRAVELLERS, THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY
AND TOUR OPERATORS DO TO FLUSH IT OUT?

Words ¤ EISHA GUPTA

S
USTAINABLE TOURISM IS
having a moment. According
to a 2023 survey called
“Sustainable Travel Survey” by
the Outlook Group and Toluna,
63 per cent of respondents said
they had become more aware of "sustainable
tourism" in the past ten years. When asked
to choose between an eco-friendly vacation
or leisure travel versus a regular one, 66 per
cent opted for the former, and a whopping
88 per cent of them were ready to pay a
premium for that trip.
But riding on the coattails of the green
movement across the tourism, energy and
retail sectors is an insidious phenomenon that
undermines the painstaking progress made:
greenwashing.
It’s the act of falsely claiming that a product,
VHUYLFHRUSROLF\LVEHQHĶFLDOWRWKHSODQHWDQG
that it minimises harm to ecosystems and
local communities. This masks their business-
as-usual approach and can make consumers
ORVHFRQĶGHQFHLQWDFNOLQJFOLPDWHDFWLRQ
when such lies are exposed.
In the tourism sector, greenwashing can be
observed when hotel chains claim they are
operating sustainably by asking guests to have
their linens washed every two-three days or
requesting they turn off air conditioning units
when they leave the room—which only saves
on their electricity bills rather than actually
helping the planet; tour operators who
supposedly rescue wild animals like elephants
but offer people to ride them or make them
do tricks; or so-called ecolodges that are
built near sensitive sites like ancient caves or
grounds important to indigenous peoples.
Paloma Zapata, CEO of Sustainable

100 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4

7UDYHODQRWIRUSURĶWEDVHGLQ(XURSHWKDW
works with local communities and tourism
operators to protect and conserve vulnerable
destinations, witnessed the latter scenario
ĶUVWKDQGLQ*RDZKHQVKHIRXQGKHUVHOILQ
a remote area with lush vegetation that had
a special cave associated with the Buddha. A
new development was being constructed close
to it and was being billed as an ecolodge. When
she got closer to check out the wood they were
using for its construction, she noticed that it
was, in fact, cement being passed off as wood.
“Cement in a natural environment is
damaging to that environment. The soil or
water sources nearby will get eroded, and
that’s just not good. This was the case just ten
years ago," she says.
UNCERTAINTY OF CERTIFICATIONS
In a bid to counter such falsities, there’s a
growing movement towards promoting
FHUWLĶFDWLRQDVWKHJROGVWDQGDUGIRUDVVHVVLQJ
whether a lodge or tour operator practises
sustainable tourism principles. The not-for-
SURĶW72)7LJHUVFODVVLĶHVQDWXUHEDVHGDQG
eco-friendly lodges through its PUG and
)RRWSULQWFHUWLĶFDWLRQVZKLFKDUHUHFRJQLVHG
by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council
(GSTC) and the Indian Sustainable Tourism
Criteria (ISTC), respectively. However,
FHUWLĶFDWLRQRYHUDOOKDVLWVIDLUVKDUHRI
problems, too.
According to C. B. Ramkumar, Vice
&KDLUPDQRIWKH*67&FHUWLĶFDWLRQZLOORQO\
hold water if third-party auditors conduct
the assessment process. He dismissed the
Indian Ministry of Tourism’s Travel for LiFE
&HUWLĶFDWLRQDVDPLVJXLGHGDWWHPSWDW
greenwashing while acknowledging it could
have started out as a sincere effort to bring
the sector up to global standards. He points to
Türkiye instead as an example to follow. “They
KDYHWKHĶIWKODUJHVWWRXULVPPDUNHWLQWKH
world and have launched a national program
for sustainable tourism which has adopted
GSTC standards. Theirs is a 10-year plan, and
WKHFHUWLĶFDWLRQWKDWKRWHOVQHHGKDYHWREH
YHULĶHGE\DWKLUGSDUW\KHVD\V
“In India, Gujarat Tourism is giving
subsidies to those who certify themselves
with GSTC standards. Governments should
put these guidelines into policy. The days of
greenwashing are over because consumers are
more connected, and they will call you out. The
reputation hit you will take will be disastrous”.
PaliGhar, a homestay in the small town
of Kalimpong, West Bengal, has woven
sustainability into every branch of its
operations. Run by a sixth-generation Nepali
family, its two cottages were built using
mudbricks, bamboo, and slurry, which keep
them cool in the summer and warm during the
winter. The owners are mindful of the carrying
capacity of the land and practise crop rotation,
composting and mulching to grow 20 different
W\SHVRIVHDVRQDOYHJHWDEOHVDQGķRZHUVDV
well as herbs, spices and tea.
Ahana Gurung, present co-owner of
the property, acknowledges that while
greenwashing has become a marketing
gimmick, its presence in the homestay sector
is less marked than in other areas of the
hospitality industry.
ASK QUESTIONS. CALL
UP THE HOTEL CHAIN,
TOUR OPERATOR OR
ORGANISATION AND
ASK THEM TO EXPLAIN
THEIR CLAIMS OF BEING
'CARBON NEUTRAL' OR
'SUSTAINABLE'
ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS
,IFHUWLĶFDWLRQLVIUDXJKWZLWKORRSKROHV
then how can travellers spot greenwashing in
action? Zapata says people need to dig deeper
WKDQZKDWWKH\VHHDWĶUVWEOXVK÷,WõVQRWHDV\
at the moment to decipher greenwashing
in action, but look a little bit further at
what else the organisation is claiming. Also,
look at social media. People talk, and when
people are somewhere, what they see is very
telling as well. Are the places you’re going to
overcrowded? What time can you go? Research
a little bit more before going and what the
impact will be. Don’t rely on pictures”, she says.
Ramkumar echoes these sentiments. He
believes the more questions travellers ask,
the better off we all will be. “Whenever a hotel
makes a claim about sustainability, travellers
should ask them to show their initiatives in
person. ‘Can I see the rainwater harvesting,
waste management and solar panels you
talked about?’ Make this request. Do the
same thing with homestays. Claims have to
EHYHULĶDEOH,IDWRXURSHUDWRUFODLPVWREH
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 101
GREEN LIVING
sustainable [in their operations], ask them
about it: ‘Can you educate me about it please?’”
Gurung says word-of-mouth references
play an invaluable role in sifting through
greenwashing claims and welcome inquiries
from curious travellers wanting to know more
about PaliGhar. “Our biggest ambassadors are
past guests who have stayed with us, and we’ve
found that nothing works as well as references
and word-of-mouth do. If nothing else, they
can always enquire about our initiatives over a
call before booking,” she says.
THE WAY OUT
Building a sustainable tourism industry
demands leadership that will commit to
change and not buckle down. Ramkumar and
=DSDWDERWKDJUHHWKDWZKLOHFHUWLĶFDWLRQFDQ
be put on the backburner for now, committing
to the principles of sustainable tourism and
implementing them rigorously within the
next decade is walking the talk.
Developing national standards that
are crafted to serve local needs and offer
incentives that remain up-to-date and change
when norms and best practices change is
key. A bottom-up approach can be ignored
by governments, says Zapata, which is why
leadership from the top-down is needed
more than ever. “Even if a small business’s
leadership says ‘This is where we want to go’
and they create a vision and their ‘why,' their
employees will follow. It permeates through
the organisation, and there’s motivation. That’s
how real change happens," she says.
SNIFFING OUT
GREENWASHING
O Investigate the claim. A company will
be transparent about its sustainability
processes and release reports regularly.
O Ask questions. Call up the hotel chain,
tour operator or organisation and ask
them to explain their claims of being
"carbon neutral" or "sustainable."
O Verify certification. If something is
billed as "organic," it should come with
FSSAI’s organic logo, the PGS logo or the
NPOP logo on the packaging label. Check
whether independent certifying bodies
have released any information backing
up sustainability claims.
Check social media. Reading what other
O
travellers have written about their
experiences is a good way to separate
the good from the bad.
 TIMELESS
BENGALI
CUISINE A culinary oasis nestled within the
iconic Peerless Hotel on Jawaharlal

AT AAHELI Nehru Road, Aaheli is known for an

exceptional dining experience

A
s the first rays of sunlight
illuminate the bustling
streets of Kolkata, a city
teeming with life and
history, they unveil a vibrant tableau
of sights, sounds, and scents that
are quintessentially Bengali. Amidst
the symphony of honking yellow
Ambassador taxis and the animated
chatter of locals bargaining with
vendors, there's a scent that beckons,
a scent that leads you on a journey
through the culinary wonders
of Bengal.
Follow that irresistible aroma, and
you'll find yourself at the doorstep
of Aaheli, a culinary oasis nestled
within the iconic Peerless Hotel on
Jawaharlal Nehru Road. Aaheli has
been synonymous with excellence for
over three decades, offering diners a
taste of Bengal's rich culinary heritage
in an ambience steeped in tradition
and elegance.
Since its inauguration on May 18,
1993, Aaheli has been a beacon of
culinary excellence in Kolkata, drawing
diners from far and wide with its
commitment to authenticity and
innovation. Aaheli has become more
TRAVEL PROMOTION
Since opening its
doors in 1993, Aaheli
has shone brightly as
a symbol of culinary
brilliance in Kolkata
than just a restaurant; it's a cultural
institution that symbolises Bengal's
culinary prowess and hospitality.
Step inside Aaheli, and you'll be
transported to a bygone era, where
the essence of Bengali culture
permeates every corner. From the
elegant saris and dhoti-kurtas worn by
the staff to the batik-printed napkins
adorning the tables, every detail is a
testament to Aaheli's commitment
to preserving culinary tradition
and heritage.
But it's not just the ambience that
sets Aaheli apart; it's the food, the
TRAVEL PROMOTION
Aaheli is known for its diverse menu
offering mouthwatering sweet and
savoury dishes
exquisite flavours and aromas that
dance on your palate and linger in
your memory long after the meal.
At the heart of Aaheli's menu are its
legendary thalis, a culinary journey
that promises to tantalise the taste
buds and satiate the soul.
Indulge in the Bhuribhoj Thali, a
lavish spread boasting 16 carefully
curated dishes to showcase Bengali
cuisine's diverse flavours and textures.
From the delicate sweetness of Illish
to the succulent Chingri, each dish
is a masterpiece in its own right, a
testament to the culinary expertise of
Aaheli's chefs.
But Aaheli is more than just thalis;
it's a treasure trove of culinary delights
waiting to be discovered. Sink your
teeth into the timeless charm of Daab
Chingri, featuring jumbo Galda prawns
delicately cooked in coconut gravy, or
savour the rich and flavourful Kosha
Mangsho, tender mutton chunks
simmered to perfection in a semi-thick
onion gravy.
Aaheli's Sorshe Eelish is a must-try
for fish enthusiasts, showcasing the
revered Hilsa fish simmered in hand-
ground mustard. Whether you prefer
it with or without bones, this divine
dish promises a culinary experience
that celebrates the essence of Bengali
cuisine in all its glory.
Of course, no Bengali meal is
complete without indulging in
desserts, and Aaheli offers an array
of sweet treats that will satisfy even
the most discerning palate. From
the creamy Payesh to the delightful
Doi Kolosh, Rajakiyo Rajbhog, Aahelir
Sandesh and Monolobha Malpoa,
each bite is a celebration of Bengal's
rich culinary legacy.
But Aaheli is more than just a
restaurant; it's an experience, a
journey into the heart and soul of
Bengal. With its elegant ambience,
refined cuisine, and impeccable
service, Aaheli promises an
unforgettable dining experience that
will leave you craving more.
Whether you are dining with family
or rubbing shoulders with Kolkata's
elite, Aaheli invites you to savour the
flavours of Bengal in all its glory, one
exquisite dish at a time. So come,
take a seat at Aaheli's table, and let
your taste buds embark on a culinary
adventure like no other.
 group

READ.THINK.UNDERSTAND
M A R C H 2 0 2 4 • L 70 NO.1 PERSONAL FINANCE MAGAZINE

CITIES Of
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Lakhpati Didis
THE GO

striving to
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Romancing the season with tales of

love, people and places, from gorgeous
ROME to the mystique of Mandu

Charting
Her Own
Course
TAAPSEE PANNU, on her journey as
an actor and producer and why
˔˖˛˜˘˩˜ˡ˚Ѓˡ˔ˡ˖˜˔˟˜ˡ˗˘ˣ˘ˡ˗˘ˡ˖˘
˜˦˔ˠ˨˦˧˙ˢ˥˔˟˟˪ˢˠ˘ˡ

SPECIAL STORY
ROMANCE IN RUINS PARTITION SEARCHING SHAN OUTLOOK-
EXPLORING TRAGEDIES SPOTTING SNOW TOLUNA SURVEY
Warren MANDU'S LOVES LOST LEOPARDS IN WHO'S THE NEW
Buffett's LOVE LORE AND FOUND LADAKH INDIAN TRAVELLER

Investing
I T ’ S N O T W H E R E ——— I T ’ S H O W
Strategy

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RT AWARDS

REAL PLACES. REAL PEOPLE.

UNREAL EXPERIENCES

106 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 GREEN LIVING

TRIP IS A TRIP IS A TRIP…

Until you discover the electrifying, life-changing
power of travel! And quite often, it takes just one
conversation with a taxi driver, or one suggestion from
the local family you may be staying with, or one act of
kindness by a complete stranger to turn a trip into a
story. A magical one!
At Outlook Responsible Tourism, we’ve known
this all along. So, for the past nine years, we’ve been
recognising the people who make our holidays
SILVER WINNER - MYSTIC VILLAGE, CHAMBA,
unforgettable, and building a community together. HIMACHAL PRADESH
This year was no different. At the Outlook Indian This is a community initiative by members of the
Responsible Tourism Summit & Awards 2024 in New pastoral Himalayan tribe of Gaddis. Five homes,
local youth, and an entire village come together
Delhi, we made a simple wish of ‘Growing Together, to preserve their own heritage, and create
Growing Responsibly’, and talked about making travel new opportunities for cultural exchange.

more sustainable, while continuing to be fun and ONE TO WATCH - PALIGHAR, KALIMPONG,
WEST BENGAL
inspiring. We even invited our friends from Bulgaria
A seventh-generation farm-turned-farmstay, PaliGhar is
and the Nordics to learn about the new frontiers of known for its conservation efforts, resilience during the
tourism that the world is waking up to. pandemic years, and business innovations that could be
replicated by other small and sustainable family-run units.
Yet, of all the things we did, we’re proudest of the
Outlook Indian Responsible Tourism Awards, and
the winners, who open their homes and hearts to us,
allowing us to experience many Indias in one India!

SUSTAINABLE LEADERSHIP –
BNBs & GUESTHOUSES
GOLD WINNER - JUJURANA STAYS, BANJAR,
HIMACHAL PRADESH
Named after the critically endangered Western
Tragopan, the jujurana or king of birds, this cottage
SUSTAINABLE LEADERSHIP – HOMESTAYS by a stream in the Great Himalayan National Park
harnesses renewable energy and manages its water
GOLD WINNER - JADE HOUSE, LEH, LADAKH and waste efficiently.
Jade House is home to Tsezin Angmo, who believes in building community
networks, particularly with local entrepreneurs and women-led initiatives,
to make sure travellers have a deeper sense of place and purpose in Ladakh.

SILVER WINNER - BINSAR FOREST RETREAT,

KUMAON, UTTARAKHAND
Planted in the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, this retreat
encourages travellers to engage with nature and
with the local community in meaningful ways, and
assumes responsibility for actions that have an
impact beyond its own boundaries.

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 107

 RT AWARDS
SUSTAINABLE LEADERSHIP – HOTELS
GOLD WINNER - LCHANG NANG RETREAT, NUBRA VALLEY, LADAKH
A champion of local culture, community and architecture, Lchang Nang
shows serious commitment to sustainability by relying almost entirely
on renewable energy, solar water heating, gravity-fed water and local
supply chains.
SILVER WINNER - NINE FURLONGS, KUMAON, UTTARAKHAND
A restored colonial property in Binsar, the lodge takes its environmental
and social responsibilities seriously by investing in solar power and
rainwater harvesting, and focusing on the welfare of its local staff,
including medical insurance.
108 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
SUSTAINABLE LEADERSHIP –
TRAVEL ENTERPRISES
GOLD WINNER - HEALING HIMALAYAS,
HIMACHAL PRADESH
From ‘Treks with Purpose’ — to clean up popular trails
— to setting up Material Recovery Facilities at tourism
hubs, they work towards safeguarding the delicate
Himalayan ecosystem.
SILVER WINNER - SADHANA FOREST, AUROVILLE,
TAMIL NADU
For 20 years, this global non-profit has engaged over a
thousand volunteers every year in sustainable projects in
India, focusing on reforestation, food security and rural
resilience, impacting lives and landscapes.
ONE TO WATCH - DAKSHIN ENDEAVOURS, ANDAMANS
& KARNATAKA
Using travel as a springboard for awareness and
education, this initiative sparks curiosity and encourages
critical thinking in children, while helping them
understand the symbiotic relationships between people,
places and nature.
ONE TO WATCH - ASTROSTAYS, LADAKH
Stargazing meets social change in remote rural
destinations of Ladakh through this initiative that
encourages local youth to become astro-preneurs
by offering dark sky experiences to guests at their
homestays, or at community-run experience centres.

SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPIONS –
GRASSROOTS HEROES
GOLD WINNER - PUNYO CHADA, ARUNACHAL PRADESH
A teacher and changemaker, Punyo Chada, planted the seed and
nurtured the idea of sustainable development for years in Ziro Valley,
home to the Apatani tribe. Through the initiative, NgunuZiro, or Our
Ziro, he continues to set a wonderful example of community action for
rural destinations.
SILVER WINNER - KARTIK GAGGAR, RAJASTHAN
Through his enterprise Rajasthan Studio, Kartik Gaggar connects the
custodians of traditional arts, crafts, textiles and music, and local
businesses, with culturally curious travellers, both online and offline.
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
GREEN LIVING
SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPIONS –
PATHFINDERS
GOLD WINNER - ISHITA KHANNA, HIMACHAL PRADESH
For over two decades, Ishita Khanna and her
organisation, Spiti Ecosphere, have worked with the
local community to build resilience in an extremely
eco-fragile landscape, and created opportunities for
travellers to contribute to these efforts.
SILVER WINNER - NIRMAL KULKARNI, GOA
Known as a seasoned snakeman and ecologist,
Nirmal Kulkarni has been a leading stakeholder in key
conservation efforts in the Western Ghats, especially in
his home state of Goa, with a significant impact on the
environment and local community.
ONE TO WATCH - MACKINLAY BARRETO, GOA
Mackinlay Barreto is opening up the Goa of 70s and
80s as a practitioner of mindful tourism. The limited
capacity, micro-local experiences he offers employs
locals, bans the use of single use plastic and forbids the
geo-tagging of locations.
O 109
 RT AWARDS

CONVERSATIONS
OF CHANGE
At the Outlook Indian Responsible Tourism Initiative,
we believe in travel that is gentle on the earth and
invested in the growth and happiness of the local
communities. We also believe in collective wisdom
and sharing knowledge. So, we invited leading experts
from remote corners of our country to share their
learnings and help us open our hearts and minds to new
possibilities and opportunities.

The intent of a traveller has to

come from the ground up. Ideally it
should be... “How is it possible for
me to gently challenge myself?”
Adil Hussain, Award-Winning Actor

Sumantha Ghosh, Managing Director, Vanghat

When you take people to the

source of the food, get them to
meet communities, & taste food,
(From Top) James Champion, Wildlife it's transformative.”
Tour Leader, & Grandson of Late Forester
FW Champion, Dhritiman Mukherjee, Chef Thomas Zacharias,
Wildlife Photographer Founder, The Locavore

110 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 GREEN LIVING

SPECIAL MESSAGES

Shri Sukhvinder Singh Sukhu, Hon’ble Chief Minister,

Government of Himachal Pradesh

(From Top)
Sanjeev Nayar, Head
(North), Jaipur Rugs,
Dr. M. K. Singh, Director
(Skill Development),
Madhya Pradesh Tourism

That’s one of the fantastic things about humanity.

When we put our minds together, we can really create
something new and we can change things.”

Shri Brijmohan Agrawal, Hon’ble Minister of Culture Hjörtur Smárason, Founder & Lead Strategist, Saltworks, Denmark, &
and Tourism, Government of Chhattisgarh Former CEO, Visit Greenland

(From Left) Sandeep Virmani, Chairman, Hunnarshala Foundation, Punyo Chada,

Secretary, NgunuZiro, Arunachal Pradesh, CB Ramkumar, Vice Chair, GSTC, Raj Basu,
Co-founder, Help Tourism, & Advisor, Rural Tourism & Homestays, States in the
Northeast, Myanmar, Bhutan & Nepal, Malika Virdi, Mountaineer, Former Sarpanch,
Sarmoli–Jainti Van Panchayat, Munsiari, & Founder-Director, Himalayan Ark, Paras
Loomba, Founder, Global Himalayan Expedition

(From Left) Malavath Poorna, Youngest Woman to Scale Mt Everest, & Team Leader,
TARC Academy, Indranil Roy, CEO, Outlook Group

Travel is about people. It is at the

core of why we embark on a journey.”
Milena Nikolova,
Founder, BehaviorSmart, Bulgaria

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 111

READ

SNAKEMAN ROMULUS
WHITAKER'S MEMOIR
TAKES READERS ON
A JOURNEY THROUGH
HIS LIFE, DELVING
INTO HURDLES
SUCH AS HABITAT
DEGRADATION AND
CULTURAL DISPARITIES
CONCERNING WILDLIFE
CONSERVATION

Words ¤
KARTIKEYA SHANKAR

112 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4
 GREEN LIVING

THE

WHISPERER

I
MAGINE A CHILDHOOD FUELLED BY
a deep love for the wild, nurtured in the
American countryside and blossoming
into a lifelong dedication to India's
incredible wildlife, particularly its most
misunderstood creatures—snakes. This
is the world of herpetologist Romulus
Whitaker, the "Snakeman of India," whose
recently released memoir, "Snakes, Drugs And Rock 'N' Roll,"
co-authored by journalist and writer Janaki Lenin, offers a
glimpse into his journey.
"I didn't give myself the nickname 'Snakeman of India.'
+RZHYHUKDYLQJHVWDEOLVKHG,QGLD VĶUVW6QDNH3DUNRYHU
ĶYHGHFDGHVDJRDQGGHGLFDWLQJ\HDUVWRGRFXPHQWLQJDQG
VWXG\LQJWKHUHSWLOHVWKURXJKZULWLQJDQGĶOPLQJWKHWLWOH
naturally stuck to me," said the American-born Indian wildlife
conservationist while speaking to OT.
Whitaker attributes his fascination with the natural world
to a healthy dose of childhood rebellion. Disenchanted with
academics, he found solace in the untamed beauty of wild
SODFHVDQGFUHDWXUHV7KLVSDVVLRQLQWHQVLĶHGZKHQKLVIDPLO\
moved to India, which he fondly calls "the land of cobras."
The book chronicles this early exposure to snakes, sparking a
lifelong love affair that continues to shape his work.

DIGGING DEEPER
The book also explores the challenges faced by local
communities that coexist with wild animals, highlighting
the need for solutions that address their concerns. Whitaker
points to the reverence for cobras in certain regions as a
prime example.
Romulus Whitaker with a prairie rattler that bit him in El Paso "There are villages in West Bengal's Bardhaman District

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER O 113

 READ GREEN LIVING
Top and right:
Whitaker with
an American
crocodile
in Miami
Serpentarium,
1963; holding
his first snake
in Hoosik, New
York, 1947
"Snakes, Drugs and
Rock 'n' Roll" by Romulus
Whitaker and Janaki Lenin
(HarperCollins)
where people live with cobras. The cobras are
so comfortable with people that they don’t
even spread their hoods when encountered.
We can learn a lot from these people and
snakes to reduce the tremendous snakebite
problem in India," he said.
Not only this, the book tackles the
ethical complexities of intervention in
natural ecosystems. Whitaker shares his
experience with Tamil Nadu's Irula tribe, who
traditionally hunted snakes for their skins.
"Previously, in the region, traditional
snake-catching practices were unsustainable,
particularly considering the vital role snakes
play in controlling rodent populations and
maintaining agricultural health," he said. He
devised an innovative solution to tackle this:
establishing a cooperative for sustainable
snake venom collection.
"The Irula Snake-catchers Cooperative
emerged as an ingenious solution. This
initiative allows members to continue
their snake-catching skills but with a
crucial shift: the captured snakes are now
114
milked for their venom, a vital ingredient
in lifesaving antivenom. These snakes
are then released back into their natural
habitat," Whitaker added.
FROM ANECDOTES TO INSIGHTS
The book is not your typical wildlife
narrative. The title itself hints at the
unconventional path Whitaker takes the
reader on. It's a tale weaving encounters
with venomous giants and a shift from
hunting to conservation. Talking about
this change, he said, "My transformation
happened over a while and really hit me
when I travelled around India in the early
1970s surveying crocodiles and found that
they had been all but wiped out."
Beyond personal anecdotes, the book
tackles the broader challenges and triumphs
RIZLOGOLIHFRQVHUYDWLRQLQ,QGLD5HķHFWLQJ
on this, Whitaker remarked, "While raising
public awareness about the loss of India's
wild habitats and creatures to development
UHPDLQVDVLJQLĶFDQWKXUGOHLQZLOGOLIH
O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
conservation, there have been triumphs.
These include the establishment of
PDJQLĶFHQW3URWHFWHG$UHDVWKHHQFRXUDJLQJ
resurgence of critically endangered reptiles
like the gharial, and the dedication of
young researchers actively involved in
conservation efforts."
Finally, for aspiring conservationists,
Whitaker's message is clear: "Follow your
dream. Unwavering passion and dedication
DUHNH\ZKHWKHULW VDVSHFLĶFVSHFLHVRUD
particular habitat. And most importantly,
don’t let adults (who, chances are, have not
had the delightful experience of being in the
wild) dissuade you."
EXCERPT FROM "SNAKES,
DRUGS AND ROCK 'N' ROLL"
Early in the morning, I lay in bed by the
open door, watching seven peccaries rooting
in the apple orchard. With them were two
coatimundis searching for ripe fruit. One
peccary ambled up before realising how
close I was. It looked at my face in surprise,
coughed once, and all of them took off like
midget racehorses. I savoured the moment,
but there were snakes to be caught. I
busied myself making four peanut-butter-
and-grape-jelly sandwiches with thick
slices of wheat bread, which went into a
clean snake bag.
I headed straight up the canyon, crawling
through barb-wire fences and into the
woods along a well-worn trail that took
me through the narrow Box Canyon and
through the pine forest. Deer scattered
through the brush, and the occasional one
VWUHDNHGDZD\ZLWKLWVZKLWHWDLOķDVKLQJ
Insect sounds reverberated through the air.
7KHVXQURVHKLJKEULJKWHQLQJWKHķRRURI
the canyon.
I walked carefully across a massive rock
slide, alert for the soft buzz of a small rattler.
$WWKHĶUVWVRXQGRIRQH,H[FDYDWHGWKHURFNV
but the rattle grew fainter. The snake had
retreated inside. I had to be faster next time.
Careful not to start a landslide, I made
my way. Another snake disappeared under
DķDWURFN2QOLIWLQJWKHVWRQH,FDXJKW
sight of a slate grey coil near my hand. Too
late. The small lance-shaped head of a green
rock rattler shot out and bit deep into my
left thumb.
'You dumb shit,' I berated myself.
My thumb burnt like a hot iron drilling
LQWRķHVK7KLVZDVQRGU\ELWH$OWKRXJKLQ
 READ GREEN LIVING
Checking out the fangs of a water moccasin in Florida Everglades, 1964
pain, I wanted the snake. I grabbed it with my
tongs and dumped it into a bag. Not knowing
how bad the snakebite was going to be, I
didn't waste my time in that remote spot and
retraced my steps for the three-hour hike
back to Nell's barn.
Exhausted from the agony, I slumped
beside a stream and drank deeply. I made an
improvised sling with a bag for my throbbing
hand and rested in the shade of a tree for a
few minutes. The swollen thumb had turned
blue like an overripe fruit, stiffened and
RR]HGķXLGIURPWKHSXQFWXUHZRXQGV,
wiped it with a damp handkerchief and tied
LWORRVHO\DURXQGWKHELWHWRNHHSWKHķLHV
away. My small medical kit contained no
painkillers. I did, however, have a stash of
ON LIFTING THE STONE, I
CAUGHT SIGHT OF A SLATE
G R E Y C O I L N E A R M Y H A N D.
TOO LATE. THE SMALL
LANCE-SHAPED HEAD
OF A GREEN ROCK RATTLER
SHOT OUT AND BIT DEEP
INTO MY LEFT THUMB
116
marijuana. I tamped a thimble-full into a
corncob pipe for a smoke. The familiar high
took the edge off the agony.
I felt better enough to continue on my
way. About a mile later, I began sneezing
non-stop, which made me even more tired.
Then my armpits, crotch and head started
itching. I had no time to dwell on this
new, unfamiliar symptom of an allergic
reaction to venom.
The distance passed in a blur. The
sneezing abated, but I continued to scratch
DVLIEHGHYLOOHGE\ķHDV$SDUNHGFDUVWRRGLQ
Nell's yard, and the sound of people's voices
came from the house. If her guests saw my
puffy face with a snotty nose while I raked
my privates like an uncouth simpleton, they
would run a mile. I stumbled behind the
barn without being spotted and sat under an
apple tree with my back resting against the
trunk. Sweat trickled from my brow, and my
shirt was damp.
I toked on the corncob pipe, which eased
the pain. Two snake bags stuffed with dry
leaves made good pillows, and I stretched
out, gazing into the branches. I sank into a
deep sleep, listening to redstarts warbling
among the overhead foliage. On waking
up, I had no sense of how much time had
gone by since my watch had busted days
O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
earlier. A troop of coatimundis surrounded
me, chewing on fallen apples. Am I
hallucinating? They kept a wary eye on the
prone human. When I propped myself to a
sitting position, they scattered and watched
me from a distance.
The swelling had now reached the elbow.
A deep, dull ache that throbbed with my
pulse replaced the burning pain. I peeked
around the barn. The car had left. I knocked
on the door and told Nell about the bite. My
swollen arm concerned her, and she urged
me to leave for the hospital. The nearest one
at Bisbee was an hour's drive away, and my
last excruciating experience at Beaumont
lingered in my memory.
'It was a tiny snake, I reassured her. 'It
couldn't be dangerous. The swelling has
stopped, and it's not even painful any more.
, OOEHĶQH  ,WGRHVQ WORRNJRRGVKHVDLG
'Anyway, you better stay in the house.'
After we had a sumptuous dinner of deer
steak and baked potatoes, she pointed me
to her guest room. At night, I got up in the
pitch dark to take a leak but lost my balance
and fell down. I was blind. A hundred worries
assailed me as I lay there. I should have taken
Nell's advice and gone to the hospital. Now
it's too late. Should I call for help? Am I dying?
Nell hadn't seen my face on her windowpanes,
so I must be all right. I smiled at the thought.
Should I ask her to drive me to Bisbee? I had
already worried her enough. I sat upright,
paralysed by fear and uncertainty.
About an hour later, my vision started
returning, like an old TV set warming up. The
night light and the furniture were blurred
DWĶUVWDQGWKHQWKH\FDPHLQWRVKDUSHU
focus. Unsteadily, I stood up and leaned
against the wall, waiting for my balance to
return. I staggered into the bathroom and
returned to bed.
I woke to birdsong and the morning
sun streaming in through the window. My
hand was stiff and sore but much better
than the previous day. After a breakfast
of French toast with maple syrup washed
down with strong coffee, Nell bandaged
my thumb. Against her advice, I went into
the mountains to catch snakes despite the
discomfort. During the following two days, I
caught three more green rocks, two Willard's
and two black-tailed rattlers with my
right hand.
Photos and excerpt used with permission
from HarperCollins India
 2

INDIAN
RESPONSIBLE
TOURISM
STATE SUMMIT & AWARDS
RAJASTHAN 2023
2nd Edition
1 7

(Clockwise from left) 1. Guest of Honour HRH Diya Kumari, Deputy Chief Minister, Rajasthan; 2. Manganiyar musical ensemble,
Latif Khan & Group, from the village of Hamira, enthral the audience; 3. Indranil Roy, CEO, Outlook Group, shares his vision of
scaling responsible tourism initiatives in Rajasthan; 4. The Overall Winner accepting the award from Indranil Roy, Dr. Rashmi
Sharma and Apurv Kumar, MD, Clarks Group of Hotels; 5. An artisan from Bagru encouraging guests to try their hand at block-
printing. 6. Dr. Rashmi Sharma IAS, Director, Rajasthan Tourism, outlines the roadmap to mainstream responsible tourism in
the state; 7. Ms Gayatri Rathore, IAS, Principal Secretary, Rajasthan Tourism, at the awards ceremony, lending her support to
the winners and participants
 3

We partnered with Rajasthan Tourism for 5

the second consecutive year to host the
Indian Responsible Tourism State Summit
& Awards 2023 — Rajasthan. Our aim is
to not only discover and celebrate a Rajas-
than of havelis, forts, hills, lakes, wildlife,
textiles, music, crafts, fairs, and festivals,
but also a Rajasthan of incredible stories, of
incredible people!

We look forward to sharing these stories,

and putting the spotlight on those who are
quietly carrying the torch of sustainable and
responsible tourism in the state… Come join
us on this beautiful journey!

Hospitality Partner
 8

THE WINNERS
Overall Winner
Castle Mandawa, Mandawa

Sustainable Leadership – Homestays

Gold Little Bus Homestay, Jaipur
Gold The Bhagwanpura Homestead, Jaipur 10 11
Silver Jorbeer Inn, Bikaner
One to Watch Ratlam House, Jaipur
One to Watch Jai Villa Homestay, Udaipur
One to Watch Friends & Family Homestay,
Udaipur

Sustainable Leadership –
BNBs & Guesthouses
Gold Nimera House, Jaipur
Silver Padmini Haveli, Chittorgarh
One to Watch The BNB World, Jaipur

Sustainable Leadership – Hotels

Gold Kaner Retreat, Hapusar
Gold Shahpura House, Jaipur
Silver Dera Amer Wilderness Camp, Kukas
One to Watch Astroport Sariska Treetop by
Eight Continents, Sariska

Sustainable Leadership – 13 14
Travel Enterprises
Gold Pink City Rickshaw Ltd, Jaipur
Silver Mharokhet, Jodhpur
Silver Rajeshwari Jawai Safari, Jawai
One to Watch Rajasthan Studio, Jaipur

Sustainable Experiences –
Heritage Conservation
Gold Castle Kanota, Jaipur
Gold Castle Mandawa, Mandawa
One to Watch Shahpura Haveli, Shahpura 16

Sustainability Champions –
Grassroots Heroes
Gold Sambhali Trust, Jodhpur
Silver Sevaram Mali, Kheechan
One to Watch Deepak Dixit & Kirti Dixit,
Udaipur
 9

12

8. The winners of the Indian

Responsible Tourism State
Awards 2023 — Rajasthan
9. Ratish Nanda, Conservation
Architect and CEO, Aga Khan
Trust for Culture, India
10. Dharmen Gabil Momin, Proprietor,
Do Paatchi Homestay, Meghalaya
11. Eesha Singh, Co-Founder, No
Footprints
12. Sapna Bhatia, Journalist,
Filmmaker, Botanist and Founder-
Owner of Kaner Retreat, near
15
Jodhpur
13. Sonal Asgotraa, Founder,
Astrostays, Ladakh
14. Soity Banerjee, Project Editor,
Outlook Responsible Tourism
Initiative
15. Shrutika Dewan, Director, Brand &
Marketing, Outlook Group
16. Nabiha Tasnim, Project Manager,
Outlook Responsible Tourism
17 Initiative
17. Guests participate in an
interactive session on the
intangible cultural heritage of
Rajasthan

Hospitality Partner
FINAL SHOT

OT HALL OF FRAME
Explore stunning visuals
captured by our social media
contributors and immerse
yourself in a visual feast

RAMIRO TORRENTS
Lake Laguna Sucia captured amidst the
vibrant colours of autumn in El Chaltén
(Patagonia, Argentina) in April 2021
@RAMIROTORRENTS; ramirotorrents.com

SOUGATA SINHA
A shot of the majestic Mount Kanchenjunga
as seen from Sandakphu, the highest point
of Singalila National Park, West Bengal
@SINHASOUGATA

ANUP GANDHE
A view of the Badami Fort, in Badami, Karnataka,
with the azure sky reflected on Agastya Lake
@ANUPGANDHE Scan to follow us on Instagram

122 O AP RI L - M AY 2 0 2 4 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER

 Akkamalai Grass Hills of Valparai, Tamil Nadu
Photos credit: C. Samayamoorthy