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Zipper 101: Different Types of Zippers, Parts, &

Sliders
January 9, 2023 by Staff Writer

Zippers come in a wide variety of designs and sizes for different uses. The
most common types are nylon all-purpose, molded plastic VISLON, metal,
invisible, closed-end, open-end, waterproof, reversible, locking, continuous,
and 2-way zippers. This guide will help you find the right zip for your next
sewing project.

Contents list:

Different zipper types & their uses

Zipper sizes
Different zipper teeth
Parts of a zipper
Different sliders & pulls
Different zipper stops
Quick Q&A’s

Privacy - Terms
Different types of zippers & their names & uses:

Coil / Nylon / All-Purpose Plastic Zipper

Front view.
 Back view.

Description: A coil zipper has a lightweight nylon coil that’s sewn onto the
zipper tape. It’s a lightweight, flexible option that’s most often found in
smaller sizes, but you can also get it in larger teeth width. This material is
really easy to cut and sew, so you can easily adjust its length to suit your
project’s needs.
Uses:

Light to medium weight garments like trousers, skirts, dresses, quarter

/ half-zips
Zippered pouches
Zippered pockets
Bedding
Pillowcases

Molded Plastic / VISLON Zipper

Description: Molded plastic zippers (called VISLON zippers by YKK) have

shaped plastic teeth that lock together. They usually come in larger sizes.

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Uses:

Jackets, coats
Bags
Metal Zipper

Description: Metal zippers have metal teeth that are clamped into the zipper
tape. They are a strong and flexible option that works great in projects that
require strength. Metal teeth zippers are more difficult to cut to size, so try to
get the exact length you need. You also need to be careful not to sew directly
over the teeth or you’re guaranteed to break your sewing machine’s needle.
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Uses:

Jeans and other denim projects like overalls or jumpsuits

Jackets, vests, and coats
Bags

Invisible Zipper
Front view of an invisible zipper.
 Back view of an invisible zipper – this is where the teeth are.

Description: Invisible zippers have zipper teeth at the back of the zipper tape
that don’t show on the front side. When sewn correctly, they allow you to
completely conceal the zipper on your project. They also feature a softer
zipper tape and more elegant zipper pulls.

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Uses:

Dresses, skirts
Any project where you don’t want the zipper to show like a hidden
zippered pocket

Closed-End Zipper
Description: Closed-end zippers have a bottom stop at the bottom of the
zipper teeth that keeps the two sides of the zipper from separating. You’ll
only be able to open the zipper up to the bottom stop.
Uses:

Garments like trousers, skirts, dresses

Bags
Bedding
Pillow cases
Zippered pockets

Open-End / Separating Zipper

Photo credit: Nisan Aktürk.

Description: Separating (or open-end) zippers have a special mechanism at

the end of the zipper teeth instead of the bottom stopper that allows you to
separate and re-join the two sides of the zipper. They are perfect for
garments that need to open all the way up.
Uses:

Jackets
Coats
Vests
Open front or back tops

Waterproof Zipper
Description: Waterproof zippers have extra coverings over the zipper teeth
that prevent water from seeping in through the holes.

Uses:

Raincoats
Diving suits
Waterproof shoes
Bags and luggage
Tents

Reversible Zipper

Description: A reversible zipper features either a reversible slider or a double

pull. Both of these mechanisms allow you to open and close the zipper from
both sides of the zipper.

Uses:

Sleeping bags
 Jackets and coats
Ski suits
Tents

Locking Zippers

Description: Locking zippers have a few different varieties, but they all
contain a mechanism that locks the slider into place when it’s not in use. This
prevents the zipper from accidentally opening on its own when it’s under
strain.

Uses:
 Jeans, skirts, dresses, trousers
Bags
Upholstery

Continuous Zipper / Zipper Chain by the Yard

Description: Continuous zipper (or zipper chain by the yard) is a roll of zipper
tape and teeth that you can cut down to size. You’ll need to add top stops, a
bottom stop, and a slider to turn into a finished zipper. These are usually
available in coil and molded plastic zippers.

Uses:

Custom length zippers, especially in extra long lengths

Furniture / pillow covers
Bedding

Two-way Zipper

Description: Two-way zippers have two sliders on a single zipper, so you can
open them from both ends.
Uses:

Ski suits
Coats, jackets, vests

Zipper sizes:
Zipper teeth sizes:
There are two size indicators you’ll need to watch for when purchasing a
zipper. One refers to the width of the zipper teeth, and the other refers to the
length.

The number following a hashtag (like a Size #5) refers to the width of the
zipper teeth in millimeters. Simply measure between the outer edges of your
zipper teeth to figure out its size.
 Size #4-4.5: This is the size you’ll find on most coiled zippers. It’s ideal
for use with light to medium-weight fabrics, on projects that don’t
require a ton of strength.
Size #5-7: These medium sizes are often found on molded plastic and
metal zippers, and they are great for bags, denim, workwear, jackets,
and other projects that require a little extra strength.
Size #10 and above: These larger sizes are used on heavy-duty
projects or for decorative purposes.

Zipper lengths:

The length of a zipper is found by measuring between the top and bottom
stops, and not the actual length of the entire tape. So, if your project calls for
a 4” (10 cm) zipper, you’ll want the length between the stops to be 4” (10 cm).
You can either get a continuous roll of zipper and cut it to the size you need,
or you can get the exact length you need as a finished zipper. Keep in mind
that zippers come in standardized lengths, so if you need a very specific non-
standard length you’ll need to either get a continuous roll and cut it yourself
or have it professionally cut to size at the store.
Types of zipper teeth:
There are three main types of zipper teeth:

Coil zippers feature lightweight nylon coils that are sewn onto the
zipper tape. This makes them nice and flexible, and they are easy to
sew on a curve. They are usually found on zippers with smaller teeth,
and they are perfect for lightweight garments, bags, and other
projects. I wouldn’t recommend them for areas that will be under a lot
of strain, such as a tight-fitting pair of jeans, as the teeth aren’t as
strong as the other alternatives.
Moulded plastic or VISLON zippers have much bigger teeth that are
made out of shaped pieces of plastic that lock together. They are
stiffer compared to coil zippers, and more difficult to sew on a curve.
They are often used on jackets, coats, kids’ clothing, and bags.
Metal zippers have metal teeth that are clamped around the zipper
tape. They are strong yet flexible, making them perfect for many
garments and projects that require strength. It’s more difficult to adjust
their length compared to plastic alternatives, so I’d recommend getting
the exact length you need. It can also be a little more difficult to move
the slider up and down the teeth compared to coil zippers, so they may
not be the best alternative for projects where you’ll frequently need to
open and close the zipper.
What are the parts of a zipper?

Closed-end zippers are made up of 6 main parts:

Top stop: The top stop is composed of small plastic or metal parts
that are at the very top of the zipper teeth on each side of the zipper.
 They stop the slider from sliding too far up and becoming detached
from the zipper.
Bottom stop: The bottom stop is usually a small metal bracket that
looks like a thick staple. It’s located at the bottom of the zipper teeth,
and it helps keep the two sides of the zipper together and stops the
slider from sliding too far down. On some plastic zippers, the bottom
stop is created by melting the teeth together rather than attaching a
separate stopper.
Teeth / elements: Zipper teeth (also called elements) are the small
parts that are on either side of the zipper that engage with each other
to open or close the zipper when they pass through the slider. They
can be made out of metal or plastic depending on the type of zipper
you get.
Slider: The slider is the moving part that joins the two sides of the
zipper together. Its function is to open and close the zipper teeth as it’s
pulled up or down.
Zipper pull: The zipper pull is the part that’s attached to the slider for
ease of pulling it up or down.
Tape: Zipper tape is the fabric tape onto which teeth are mounted. It’s
most commonly made out of polyester.

Open-end or separating zippers have 3 additional parts instead of the bottom

stop that allow you to fully separate the two sides of the zipper:
 Insert pin: The insert pin is located at the bottom of the teeth, on the
side of the zipper that can be taken out of the slider. It helps you guide
the teeth back into the slider when you want to close the zipper.
Box pin: The box pin is located at the bottom of the teeth, on the side
of the zipper that cannot be taken out of the slider.
Retaining box: The retaining box is found at the very bottom of the
zipper, on the side without the insert pin. It’s a small box-shaped part
that has a hole for the insert pin. It functions as the bottom stop for
separating zippers.

Types of zipper sliders & pulls:

Non-lock slider: Non-lock sliders are the most common sliders you’ll
find. They feature no locking mechanism, so the slider can freely move
up and down in any position and the zipper teeth can be forced apart
by pulling the two sides apart.
Auto-lock slider: Auto-lock sliders contain a locking mechanism that
prevents the zipper from opening unless pressure is being put on the
slider. That means the zipper won’t open until you start pulling on the
zipper pull to move the slider.
Pin lock / semi-automatic slider: These sliders are often found on
jeans, and the locking mechanism unlocks when the pull is raised to a
90-degree angle from the slider. You won’t be able to pull the slider
down and open the zipper if the pull is laying parallel to the zipper.
 Key lock slider: A key lock slider has a small keyhole on it, allowing
you to lock it using a key.
Reversible slider: A reversible slider features a rotating rail on which
the pull can move. This allows you to access the pull from both sides
of the zipper, making the zipper fully reversible. They are often used on
sleeping bags and ski suits.
Double pull: A double pull zipper is similar to the reversible slider, but
rather than having a single pull that can move along the rail it features
two pulls that are attached to either side of the slider, making the
zipper reversible.

Types of zipper stops:

Bottom stops on 3 different zippers.

If you purchase a pre-cut, finished zipper, it will come with top and bottom
stops already attached. These can be separate parts that are made out of
metal or plastic, or made by the melting of existing plastic zipper teeth to
create a stopper. However, if you purchase a continuous roll of zipper and you
want to cut it to size and turn it into a finished zipper, you’ll need to attach or
create your own top and bottom stops. Here are a few alternatives you can
choose from:

Stainless steel top stops: These are small metal brackets that you can
clamp to the top teeth to form a top stop.
Metal or plastic top stops: These are made out of metal or plastic, and
you use them by taking out a single teeth from where you want the top
stop to go and clamping these into its place.
Metal bottom stop: This is a small metal part that looks like a thick
staple with a wide, flat surface. To use it, you pierce either side of the
zipper tape with the sharp legs that are sticking out and press the legs
down to fix them into place. Now, the slider won’t be able to move past
this point and the two sides of your zipper will remain attached at the
bottom.
 Fabric bottom stop: You can form your own bottom stop by folding a
small piece of fabric, tape, or ribbon over the end of your zipper, and
sewing a line of stitches on your sewing machine to secure it into
place. The stitches will stop the slider from moving past them, and the
fabric can add a unique touch to your zipper.

Quick Q&A’s:
How much do zippers cost?

All-purpose coil zippers: $1-6 / £1-4

Invisible zippers: $1-2 / £2-3
Metal jeans zippers: $2-6 / £2-5
Separating molded plastic zippers: $4-8 / £5-10

Types of zippers for dresses?

If you don’t want your zipper to be seen, choose an invisible zipper. If you
want the zipper to be exposed, you can use a coil, molded plastic / VISLON,
or metal zipper depending on the look you’re going for.
What kind of zipper is used for jeans?

Metal zippers are the best option for jeans.

Types of zippers used in garments?

You’ll find almost all types of zippers on garments, depending on the style
and materials of the garment. Invisible zippers are often found on dresses
and skirts, metal zippers on jeans, molded plastic zippers on jackets and
coats, coil zippers on trousers, and reversible zippers on ski suits.

Types of zippers for jackets?

You can use a coil zipper on lightweight jackets, but for medium to
heavyweight jackets I’d recommend using a molded plastic or metal zipper.
They both look better and are most suitable in strength for heavier materials.

Types of zippers for bags?

Depending on the style of the bag, you have a wide variety of zippers you can
choose from. You can use a coil zipper for lightweight bags pouches, or a
molded plastic or metal option for heavier-weight bags.
What type of zipper is most common for backpacks?

Molded plastic and metal zippers are the most common types you’ll find on
backpacks.

What is the strongest type of zipper?

A metal zipper in a larger size will offer you the most strength.

What type of zipper to use for outdoor cushions?

High-quality molded plastic / VISLON zippers are a great option for outdoor
cushions (source).

How many types of zippers are there?

It depends on how you’re categorizing them. There are 3 main types of teeth
(coil, molded plastic, metal), 6 main types of sliders, and 2 main types of
bottom stops (closed-end, separating).

Types of waterproof zippers?

Waterproof zippers come in all the types that are available in regular zippers,
like closed-end, separating, coil, molded plastic, metal, and so on.

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What to read next:

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This article was written by Nisan Aktürk and edited by Sara Maker.
 Nisan Aktürk (author)
Nisan started her sewing journey in December 2019 and already
has a fully handmade wardrobe. She’s made 50+ trousers, 20+
buttoned shirts, and a wide array of coats, jackets, t-shirts, and
jeans. She’s currently studying for her Sociology Master’s degree
and is writing a thesis about sewing. So she spends a lot of her
time either sewing or thinking/writing about sewing! Read more…

Sources:
https://ykkamericas.com/difference-between-pin-lock-sliders-and-auto-lock-sliders/
https://www.ykkfastening.com/products/zipper/s_zipper.html
 https://www.ykk.com/english/ykk/tech/03.html
https://www.sailrite.com/Choosing-the-Right-Zipper
https://www.sailrite.com/Zipper-All-Questions-Answered-about-Zippers-Streaming-Video
https://www.sbs-zipper.com/blog/waterproof-zips-purchasing-guide-tips/

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