N

CD
N
0)
CD
-l
C,) 0
CD
C
0
CD (D

C)
a1
‘I,

0)
(51 ‘I
0
•1

1<

0
 type
You are now the owner of a new zigzag sewing machine, the most versatile
of its kind you can possess.
embroidery
Buttonholes. monogramming. stretch stitching overcasting and creative
are done with ease and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance from your new WHITE this book
on its care and use has been written for you. Read the instructions carefully as a
thorough understanding of your machine will reward you with many hours of trouble
free, creative sewing.
Time-saving attachments such as rufflers. binders. edgestitchers, cording feet and
others to complement the accessories furnished with your WHITE are available from
the store where you purchased your machine.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY

Cleveland. Ohio 44111

WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.

Toroiito, Ontario. Canada

 INDEX
Pages Pages
Accesries24 Stitch Length 9
How to Use 25 Trouble 31-32-33
Hemmers 26 Darning and Mending 11
Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide 27 Embroidery
Quilting Guide 27 Creative 14
Attachments 35 Hoop 15
Adjustable Cord and Zipper Foot 41 Features and Ports (Front View) 2
Attachment Foot 36 (Back View) 3
Binder 38 Installation-Head in Cabinet 49
Edgestitcher 36 Head in Portable Case 47
Hemmers 39-40 Maintenance and Core 28
Ruffler 43 Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle”29
Blind Stitching 19 Needle Setting 6
Bobbin Pressure and Feeding of Fabric 11
Placing in Shuttle 7 Thin and Light weight Fabrics 11
Threading 6 Reverse Sewing 9
Winding 5 Sewing Preparation 12
Buttonhoies 16 Sewing Tips 45-46
Buttons Sew-On 22 Straight Stitching 13
23 Tension Adjustment 10
Stretch sttching
Threading-Upper 8
C.ha rts
Needle-Thrad-Fabric-Stitching 4
2

FEATURES AND PARTS 1. Thread Take-up Lever

(Front View) 2. Pressure Release
3. Arm Thread Guides
4. Bobbin Winding
5. Pattern Selection
6. Manual Patterns
7. Stretch Patterns
8. Zjgzag Stitch Width Lock
9. Zigzag Stitch Width Dial
10. Zigzag Control Dial
11. Buttonhole Control Lever
12. Bobbin Winder
13. Hand Wheel
14. Clu:h
15. Stretch Stitch Control
16. Stitch Length Control
17. Push Button Reverse
18. Drop Feed Control Knob
19. Needle Plate
20. Presser Foot
21. Cover Plate
22. Presser Foot Thumb Screw
Fig. I 23. Needle Clamp
24. Tension Regulator
25. Thread bar and face latch
26. Sew Lite Switch
 3

FEATURES AND PARTS

(Bock View)

4. Bobbin Winder Tension

27. Presser Bar lifter
28. Thread Cutter
29. Feed
30. Head Hinge Mounting
Holes
31. Spool Pins

Fig. 2
4

IC-STITCHING GUIDE
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABR
Silk
Machine or
Stitches Cotton Mercerized
Needle Thread Nylon
No. Per Inch Thread
Fabric
6 10
Extremely heavy to to Heavy Duty
4
tarpaulin, sacking, 8 30
canvas, duck, etc.
8 30
Heavy upholstery to to i-leavy Duty
3 (18)
fabric, ticking, 10 40
denim, leatherette
10 40
Medium heavy drapery 2 (16) to to Heavy Duty
fabrc, velveteen, 12 60 —

suiting,_felt, terry, etc.

12 60
Medium broadcloth, to 50 A
percale, gingham, linen, 1 (14) to
80
chintz, taffeta, sheer 14
wool, shantung, etc.
14 80
• to 50 A
Sheer voile lawn to
dimity, crepe,
.

an ercri ie men Piastic turn

plastic rum etc. 8 to 10
16 100
A
Very sheer chiffon, 00 to to 50
batiste, lace, organdy, 20 150
ninon, net, morquisett, etc.
 5

3
f’
I

I
Fig. 3

Fig. 4

WINDING THE BOBBIN

Disengage the hand wheel (i. Fig. 3) from the stitching mechanism by turning the
clutch (2, Fig. 3) toward you or counter clockwise. Place a spooi of thread on one of
the spooi pins a.,d lead thread though the arm thread guide (3, Fig. 4) . Run end of
thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
(4, Fig. 4) fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder
(5, Fig. 4) to the right, and hold thread end loosely then start machine slowly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away from you until sewing
mechanism is again engaged so that needle moves when you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to start the winding.
6

SETTING THE NEEDLE

f:ce
t a
needle bar A to its highes
1
See Fig . 6. Rai se the shank
turn ing wh eel tow ard you by hand,
point,
clamp screw B and the r /
—/ Then loosen the needle Place nee dle
into clamp C.
needle can be inserted cla mp and push it
the needle
(flat side to right) in the nee dle clamp
l go into
upward as far as it wil sec urely with
dle clamp screw
hole, tightening the nee
a screw driver. rn
needle make one co
After changing the hand Fg. 7
the balance wheel by
plete revolution of
le is in the correct
to be sure the need
position.
Fig. 6

IN CASE
THREADING THE BOBB
left hand,
bob bin cas e bet we en thumb and forefinger of
Fig. 8). Hold Take the bobbin between thu
mb and
Step 1 (illustrated in the bob bin case is on top.
the edg e of
so that the slot in leads from left to right.
of righ t han d so that the thread on top
forefinger slot of the bobbin case as
cas e, pul l the thread into the
Step 2. Insert bobbin
into bob bin ed opening of the spring
w und er ten sio n spri ng and into the fork-shap
dra it
shown in Fig. 9, and
as shown in Fig . 10.
 /

rENSION

Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10

PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE

Raise needle bar to highest position, and slide cover plate
to the left. Hold the bobbin case latch, (D,
Fig. 11) between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand,
with at least three inches of thread running from the top of
the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin
case on the stud of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the
bobbin case finger, (E), is opposite the shuttle race notch (A)
Press the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible
post of the shuttle. THEN Fig. 11
until latch catches on the center
release the bobbin case latch, (D). Press bobbin case again
after latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case
is locked securely in place. Close the cover plate.
8

UPPER THREADING

raise the
1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to
posi tIon.
take-up lever to its highest
l pin.
2. Place a spool of thread on the spoo
3. Lead the thread through the upp er arm thread
guides.
4. Down and between
the tension discs, from right to
left.
spring and
5. Draw the thread up through the check
into the hook , (See inser t, Fig. 12)
with a slight tug from
take-up lever
6. Up and through the eye of the
right to left.
7. Lead thread down through thread
guide 6 and
through the
behind the face plate guides and then
needle bar guide from the back.
RIGHT, drawing
8. Thread needle FROM LEFT TO
es. Hold the end
it through about 3 or 4 inch
turn the hand
of the upper thread loosely and
nee dle goes all the
wheel toward you until the
up. A loop (Fig.
way down and comes back ad which
over the upp er thre
13) will be formed CHECK
Place both
then can be pulled out straight. SPRING
pre sser foot
thread ends under the slot of the THREAD
the mach ine, leav
and draw toward the back of . GUIDES
r inch es long
ing both threads three or fou
Fig. 12
 9

Fig. 13 Fig 4

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH

The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial, 13 Fig. 14. Near 0 is the shortest stitch
and 5 is the longest, bt the dial may be set at any spot between the markings for a variety
of lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch. The
number stitch length you choose is indicated by the pointer,

STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE)

Figures on indicator 0 2 3 4 5

Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 25 15 8 6

SEWING IN REVERSE
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press
in the button (15 Fig. 14) as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the
button is held in.
10

IONS
ADJUSTING THE TENS
1
t down,
ion with the presser foo
Always adjust the upper tens To inc se the
rea
when it is raised.
as the tension is released the right,
ead, turn dial (Fig. 15) to
tension on the upper thr tension
to the left . Before adjusting lower
To decrea se, turn
s threaded properly.
be sure that the machine turn small
en necess ary to cha nge the bobbin tension,
Wh clockwise to tighten,
of the bobbin case
screw (Fig. 17) on side Fig. 15
counterclockwise to loosen.

Fig. 16—C
Fig. 16—B
Fig. 16-A

anced,
When the upper tensions are properly bal
threads
l be formed with both
a perfect stitch wil
ric (Fig. 16-A)
in erlockiflg in fab
is toc tight, the lower
When the upper tension ch is
r the upper thread whi
thread is pulled up ove
. 16-B)
lying flat on the fabric (Fig
is too loose, the upper
When the upper tension flat
the lower thread lying
thread forms loops over
on the fabric (Fig. 16-C). Fig. 17
 ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC
release,
General Sewing. Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap or darner
(B, Fig, 18) is at its lowest position and the drop feed knob is turned to “High”
required
position, Fig. 19. Sewing Thin or LightWeight Fabrics. When lighter pressure is
be about
to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or flimsy material, the pressure cap should
halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, (A Fig. 20) and then
,

press cap (B) down again to halfway spot. Lower the feed slightly by turning the
black dot on the knob to “Low” position. Darning and Mending. in order to move the
fabric freely in any direction for darning, and mending, release the pressure cap B
campletely by pressing down on the snap lock, (A, Fig. 20)
Turn the knob to “DOWN” position, which drops the feed well below the needle plate. Fig. 18
To retun feed to normal, return knob to “ HIGH”

DARNING AND MENDING

In order to move the fabric freely in any
direction for darning and mending, release
the pressure cap B completely by pressing
down on the snap lock (A, Fig. 20). Press
DOWN button (Fig. 18) all the way down,
which drops the feed well below the needle
plate. To return feed to normal, press the
UP button all the way down. Fig. 20
 PREPARING TO SEW
ing
bef ore starting to sew. Do not try to help the feed
hig hes t poi nt
Have take-up lever at cause it to break.
the ma ter ial as this may deflect the needle and
by pulling sser foot.
hout material under pre lower the presser foot. You
NEVER run machine wit itio n under the presser foot and
and thr ead s in pos is not nec ess ary
Place material having the needle at its hig
hest point, it
beg in sew ing . By trol. The speed of the
are now ready to mac hin e. You merely press the con
eel to star t the exerted on the con trol.
to touch the hand wh or dec rea sing the amount of pressure
incr eas ing
machine is regulated by

REMOVING THE WORK

hine
Be sure to stop the mac
p leve r and
I. •l when the thread take-u
t po
II needle bar are at the highes
sition.
—WI,. Now raise the presser foot and
the
draw the fabric back and to
and pas s
left (Fig. 21,A and B)
ad cut ter.
‘- 1.-..
the threads over the thre
thre ad
Pull down slightly, holding
to ben d
in both hands, so as not
the needle.
under
Leave the ends of thread Fig. 21—B
the presser foot.
Fig. 21—A
 13

STRAIGHT STITCHING
very soft material,
For straight sewing on fine fabric or
h presser foot and
you may wont to use the straight stitc
h are included in your
the straight stitch needle plate whic
accessory box. Both have narro w needle slots.
Plate:
Changing the Presser Foot and Needle
(1) Presser Foot
Fig. 1) and remove
(A) Loosen thumb screw ( 22
zigzag presser foot.
h presser foot (Fig.
(B) Replace with straight stitc Fig. 22-A Fig. 22-B
22- A)
(2) Need le Plate
as for
(A) Slide cover plate ( 21 Fig. 1) to the left
as possible.
needle plate (19 Fig. 1) I /
(B) Remove screws holding
to bed plate.
plate.
(C) Remove zigzag needle
h needle plate (Fig.
(D) Replace with straight stitc
22-B)
buttonhole control
Be sure to set the stitch width and
in striking the foot or
knob at 0 or the needle will break
plate.
Fig. 23) and press
Grasp outer rim of zigzag dial (A,
ible.
down on lock B. Turn dial as far to the left as poss Fig. 23
.
Pointer will then be on the zero mark
14

CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
plate are in place.
Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle
a very
The satin stitch (Fig. 24) which is really just
stitch and the basis for most embro idery, is
short zigzag
contro l (see page 9)
obtained bysetting stitch length
as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action
and zigzag width at,5, (Fig. 23).
stitching, set
To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag Fig. 24
stop(B , Fig. 23) to chosen stitch width numbe r.
zigzag width
, different
With the machine set for a short stitch length
the zigzag width control
designs can be made by turning
n 0 and 5 or any other
knob back and forth betwee
. Try setting the stop (B, Fig. 23)
combination of widths
at 1 and various other numbe rs.
d. After
Set a rhythm for yourself and then procee design s
varyin g your
a while you will become quite skillful,
stitch length , and manip ulation
by the speed of the machine,
of the zigzag control knob.

SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Fig. 25

allow knob
A. Sew a few stitches at 5 width, then
. if necessary, to establish a rhythm.
to spring back to 0 for a short period Count,
back and forth between numbers 2 and 5.
B. Set stop at 2 then move knob slowly
from 1 to 5, allowing it to snap back quickly.
C. Set stop at 1. Gradually move knob Do a few zigzag stitches, drop
stitch length at 1
D. Set zigzag stitch width stop at 4,
.

operating the feed knob rhythmically it is not

feed for 3 or 4 stitches, then raise it again. By
necessary to count stitches.
 15

E. Drop feed, set stitch width lock at 5, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of
stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design is complete.
Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design.

EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP

it is easy to follow a stomped design or to
work free hand when embroidering or monogram
ng. (See Fig. 26). Release the pressure from
the foot by pressing down on the snap lock ring
darner. Posh the drop feed button down all the
way.
Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and
place under the needle after removing the presser
foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer
Frg. 26
and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the
machine at a rather high speed while moving the
hoop slow>’ with both hands. Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers out of the path of
the needle.
Should you encounter skip stitches, the fabric is not stretched tight enough or a darning spring
is needed (see attachments available from your dealer illustrated in the back of this book).

DARN OR MONOGRAM WITHOUT HOOP

if you wish to darn or monogram without embroidery hoop, leave zigzag presser foot in
place, release all pressure on presser foot, set stitch length at 0, set zigzag stitch width to suit,
and leave feed in sewing position.
When darning or monograming in this manner, the fabric must be held taut or skipped stitches
will be encountered.
16

BUTTONHOLES Irin 1

To establish the correct length buttonhole required add

inch to the cutting space for bar tacks.
2
L.
To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening
through which the button passes is measured by adding
the width “A” and thickness “B” of the button (Fig. 28). -

First mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on

Make one Fig. 27
tie fabric with a basting line or tailor’s chalk.
or two buttonholes on scrap fabric (following directions I I

I A——*I
below) to be sure the machines adtustments are correct.
‘ B
(1) Set zigzag stitch width control at 0.
—

(2) Rep ace presser oot wit specia purpose utton o e

foot. It provides maximum siblty and allows closely Fig. 28
0 0
spaced stitches to feed evenly (Fig. 27). 00
(3) Set stitch length knob 16 (Fig. 1) as near 0 as possible
without stopping the feeding action.
(4) Set buttonhole control lever (Fig. 30) at 0 and then to
the first buttonhole setting, between numbers 1 and 3. c
S S sj s
This will set the width of the buttonhole sides.
-

T E T L
E Ef E
(5) Lower needle carefully into the mark on the fabric E
P P p— p
indicating the start of the buttonhole. E
-

4
/ 2 3 D
1
Lower presser foot and sew full length of left hand
side of the buttonhole (Fig. 29, Step 1). Fig. 29
 17

(6) Push buttonhole control as far to the right as possible. It will then latch into position
for bar tacking. Sew four or five stitches, Step 2.
(7) Push buttonhole control down slightly and manually move to position between Num
bers 1 and 3, being sure it is against the Stop.
This will set the machine to sew in reverse.
(8) Push buttonhole control as far to the right as possible, it will then latch into
position for bar tack. Sew four or five stitches, Step 4.
(9) Set buttonhole control at 0 position, extreme left, and take two or three stitches
to fasten bar tack to prevent ravelling.
(10) Cut the buttonhole opening with seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching.

if you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place torlaton or

paper under fabric which can be torn away after stitching.
When making additional buttonholes, be sure to return the buttonhole control
lever to 0 and back to the number 1 position to put the machine in forward
stitching.
18

Fig 30

HES
STRETCH AND DECORATIVE STITC
To select stitch design 10 1J3 2
position.
1. Set buttonhole lever (9 Fig.31at bar tack
to desired design.
2. Move pattern selection dial (5 Fig. 30) Fig. 31

3. Return buttonhole lever to “0” posi tion.

length.
4. Set stitch length control at desired stitch
ch stitc hes set zigzag width control (7 Fig. 30) at
5. For tracery designs and stret
h control at 2. and set stitch length control
“0” for decorative patterns set zigzag widt
at 1/2.
 19

BLIND STITCH HEM

Use standard Zigzag foot. (Fig. 32)

Set stitch length control at number 3 or 4.
Set buttonhole control in left hand position.
Set decorative stitch pattern control for
Blind Hemming.
Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost
invisible and comparable to hand sewing. Fig. 32
Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand hemming.

STEP STEP STEP STEP COMPLETED

1

// / /
2
/
3

4/ 4

F g. 33

/ /
Step 1 (Fig. 33) If hem with folded edge is used make first fold
.
deep.
Step. 2. Turn hem to the depth desired and baste ‘a” from upper edge. Press in place.
Step 3. Fold hem back toward right side of garmen t leaving “ extend ed.
suit material being sewn
Step 4. Place material under presser foot sew with stitch length set to
and make a side wise stitch about every of an inch of sewing.
20

MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCH

A A A A A A A A A A /
‘ , I’ / /\ / , /\ , I
V V V V V V V V V V V
Fig. 34

A. Use zigzag needle plate and presser foot.

B. Set stitch length control to suit-Number 5 for the widest width.
C. Set decorative stitch dial at multiple zigzag stitch.
0. Set zigzag width control at Number 5 for widest stitch.
USE:
a deco
When replacing worn blanket bindings for both
rative and dumble finish. (Fig. 35)
When overcasting an edge to prevent fraying.
When applying elastic waist bands to skirts and dresses
be sure to stretch the elastic as it is applied to insure
fullness required in the garment.
When sewing a zigzag stitch on soft or sheer material
it will prevent puckering.
There are hundreds of other uses which will become
Fig. 35 apparent as you use the machine.
 2

MANUAL OPERATION

Be sbre standard zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle

plate are in place and machine is set tor manual operation
Use for:
OVERCASTING WORN EDGES
Zigzag stitch along the worn edges, catching the fabric as
the needle swings to the left, and allowing the needle to just
pass over the edge of the fabric on the right (Fig. 37).
PATCHING
Machine bastes patch into place by placing fabric under
hole or worn area which has been cut away. Then zigzag
stitch the patch into place by overcasting around edge of hole.
APPLIQUE
Fig. 36-Baste design to fabric and zigzag stitch following
the shape of the design outlining it entirely and remove excess
material on the outer edge by trimming it away after stitching.
Fig. 38-Baste design to fabric and overcast a zigzag stitch
around the design outlining it entirely.
Hundreds of other uses will become apparent as you con
tinue to use the machine. Try the multiple zigzag stitch for
these operations. Also, for best result set speed control slow
er when sewing around contours and faster for straight lines.
Fig. 38
22

SEWING ON BUTTONS

1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot.

(See Fig. 39.) Fig. 39
2. Push drop feed button DOWN” all the way. (Fig. 43).
3. Set zigzag stitch width stop at 0. Place the button so that
its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently
lower the presser foot. (Fig. 40).
4. Move zigzag stitch width stop until the needle
comes down
exactly over the right hand hole in the button. (Fig. 41).
Turn the hand wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle
enters both holes in button without deflecting needle, correct
width if necessary.
5. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the
machine at medium speed, making six or eight stitches,
stopping with the needle in the left hole.
6. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling, set the
Fig. 40 Fig. 41
stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches in the same hole.
If you wish you may place a rounded toothpick over the
button, between the two holes, and sew button to fabric
in regular way.
Remove the toothpick and wind thread under the button,
forming a shank to fasten. Fig. 42
Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes,
hooks and snaps, etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn,
follow the same procedure as for the two hole button.
Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit
stitching the remaining two holes. Hooks, snaps, etc., are sewn
to the fabric with the same procedure as for sewing two hole
buttons.
Fig. 43
 23

STRETCH STITCHING

To sew a reinforce seam that will stretch

considerably more than the fabric used.
Set stretch control (12 Fig. 44) at the “S”
position, the zigzag width control (7) at “0”
and stitch length control (13) at the longest
stitch possible (Number 5).
The stretch stitch control 12 controls both
the forward and reverse stitch length if the
stitch length control 12 is not set at number
Hg. 44 STRETCH STITCH
Stitch Zigzag Stretch Stitch Zigzag
5 the machine will be noisy and the material Patterns Length Width Patterns Length ‘dth
5 0
may feed in reverse. 0
15
A reinforce seam thet will stretch is the iVvWW 0.55 15 .

,‘‘v’’t 05 3
most wanted feature in a sewing machine
today.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the more
,r \,r
you use your machine the more it will
..
..
.

become apparent to you. AA /77/

/7/7,
When sewing at the stretch stitching, be sure to set the stretch
lever (12 Fig. 44 in
24

ACCESSORIES

9
©©
1. Plastic Oiler (Sealed and Filled)
2. Package of Needles (5)
3. large Screw Driver
4. Small Screw Driver
5. Bobbins (3)
6. Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins)
7. Quilter Guide
8. Cloth Guide
9. Button Sewing Foot Fig. 34
10. Prong Type Buttonhole Foot )---
11. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing
12. Narrow Hemmer
13. Thumb Screw
14. Needle Plate for Straight Sewing
(graduated)
 25

HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES

Narrow Hemmer: With needle at its highest position replace regular

presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 45) being sure to tighten it securely
in place. Set decorative stitch control (5 Fig. 1) at straight stitch position
and zigzag stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched hem or at number
3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit.
For a plain narrow hem make a inch double fold
for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each
end of the two inch fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring
fold up into the scroll of hemmer, draw fabric forward to
end and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar
lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start stitching
(Fig. 46 for straight stitched hem, Fig. 47 for zigzag stitch
ed hem).

Guide material slightly to left and it will take a double

turn through scroll.
The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for edges
of ruffles or any other dainty work.
Fig. 47
26

LACE TRIMMED HEM

To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert
lace in the slot next to needle (Fig. 48) sew hem as above, guiding
lace under needle and hem into scroll. Rickrack may be used in
the same way.
LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING
Hold lace 18 inch from raw edge on rght hand side of fabric.
Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 49) let hem Fig. 48
roll over and sew in lace. When the stitching is completed the
hem is pressed on the wrong side.
FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides facing each other and the top
piece of material L inch from right hand edge of lower piece. In
sert in hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll over and sew in top fab
ric making French seam. For cording effect, use zigzag stitch
wide enough to catch both edges of the narrow raIled hem and sew Fig.
with satin stitch. This can be
used for covering chairs and so
forth. (Fig 50)

HEMMING ACROSS
A SEAM
To hem across a seam, cut
the seam folds at an angle so Fig 50
they will lead into the hemmer

“1 gradually. Press seam open. Stitch across the seam at the

extreme edge to hold it together and for added firmness. It
may be necessary to pull the material slightly when hemming
over the seam. Fig. 51
Fig. 5
 27

QUILTING GUIDE

Use this guide for making paraHel rows of straight

or decorative stitching. Attach standard presser foot.
Slip U shaped holder on guide under presser foot
Fig. 52
thumb screw from the back and tighten screw Fig. 52.
Adjust the curved bar for the distance desired be
tweer, rows of stitches and set so it presses slightly
on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the pre
vious stitching line, successive rows will be at equal-
distance apart. Hg. 55).

‘%
\

Fig. 53 Fig. 54

Fig 55

SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE

Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams
and even rows of top stitching along edge of fabric.
(Fig. 56)
Fasten Gauge (Fig. 53) with accompanying screw
(Fig. 54) in threaded hole in bed of machine. Adust
Fig. 56 to desired width.
28

- tf -
4’

•c - -1
L
#3
E.g. 57 Fig. 58

CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF

YOUR MACHINE
HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
Use only a good sewing machine oil, do not use any com
mon household oils.
Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it op
erating smoothly-how often depends on the amount of sew
ing you do.
Once a year oil your machine thoroughly as indicated by
the arrows on Figs. 57, 58 and 59.
Avoid over oiling.
Ftg. 59
 29

CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE

(See Fig. 60 and 61)

The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes

re with
clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfe
ng and
the efficient operation of the machine. Cleani
removal of the lint will safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows:
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its
highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case.
d
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outwar
Fig. 60
cover and the shuttle
and remove the shuttle
body (D).
race (C)

4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and

shuttle race
,

c I N
 ____

30

ADJUSTING AND CHANGING “V” BELT

®
Fig. 63 Fig. 64

Following are the instructions for adjusting and changing the “V’ belt:
(1) Remove, three screws holding rear cover (Fig. 63) by tipping it Out at the bottom and
pivoting around the hand wheel away from the front of the machine.
(2) To adjust “V” belt, loosen screws (A, Fig. 64) and move bracket B up to loosen belt and
down to tighten.
(3) To remove “V” belt:
(A) Remove top cover.
(B) Loosen clutch (C, Fig. 63).
(C) Loosen screws “A” (Fig. 64) and move bracket “B” to its highest position.
(D) Slip belt off motor pulley and then over hand wheel.
(E) Replace “V” belt by slipping it over hand wheel and then over motor pulley.
(F) Adjust as noted under No. 2.
 31

TROUBLE CHART

Trouble J Probable Cause Correction

If Machine Thread or lint in 1 --—With take up lever in highest position, tilt

head back on hinges and remove bobbin case.
Binds raceway

LINT CLEANER
NOTCH R ACE
BOBBIN BOBBIN
CASE

LAT CR HOOK CLAMPS

RACE COVER

2—Turn clamps outward and remove race cover.

3—Remove hook.
4—Clean thread and lint from all parts, includ
ing race.
5Run a drop of oil along rim of hook.
6—Replace hook, then race cover. Snap clamps
into place.
re
7--Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and
.

place, fitting tongue into notch of race cover.

32

Trouble Probable Cause

1 Correction

Skipping Bent needle Discard and replace.

Stitches
Needle placed
V V See instruction, page No. 6.
V

incorrectly in clamp
Too fine a needle I

tor tnread being used

V See neeaie ana tnreaaI cnart page No.4.

Irre
• g ular Upper thread tension
Tighten upper tension.
-

Stitches too ioose

Improper threading See threading instruction, page No. 8.

Bobbin not wound

RewinaI I I I
V V

boDDin.
evenly
Uneven Pulling or holding
material Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.
Stitches
Not enough tension
Increase tension.
V

on upper thread

Poor quality thread Try different thread.

Needle too fine for I

thread being used

V
See neeale ann threciciI chart, page No.4.
 33

Trouble Probable Cause Correction

Upper Thread Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions, see page No. 8,
Breaking and rethread machine.

Too much tension

. Loosen tension on upper thread by turning
thread tension knob to lower number.
Starting with take-up Always start sewing with take-up lever in
in incorrect position highest position.
Improper setting of Refer to needle setting instnjction, see page No. 6.
needle
Bent or eye of needle
J ii
Try a new neeaie.
too sharp
Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace
Bent or blunt needle witn new.

Material Tensions too tight See tension adjustment, page No. 10.
Puckering

Dull needle Change needle.

Stitch length too long Reduce stitch length.

Sewing Stretch Machine noisy ength control at Number 5.

Set stitcn
Stitch Material will not feed
-
34

equipped with the basic set of accessories

Your sewing machine comes
described earlier in this book.

Gttachments that have

The following pages illustrate additional time saving
been designed specifically for your machine. They are available at modest
cost from your dealer, if your dealer cannot supply you with these items,
ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured
ance with your
of receiving the genuine part designed for best perform
machine.

directly to:
if a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry

WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY

11750 BEREA ROAD
Cleveland, Ohio 44111

In Canada:

WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.

1470 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD
SCARBOROUGH, ONTARIO, CANADA
 35

SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE

/
4
..,..

..

PART 4O3 PART 499O PART 1873

Ruffler Darning Spring Cording & Zipper Foot

PART 82528 PART 74159 PART 76554

Attachment Foot Binder Edgestitcher
Hem me rs

PART 76553 PART 76552 PART z76551 PART Z76550

36

ATTACHMENTS
Be sure the needle positioning lever is in the
extreme left hand position.

Fig. 65
EDGESTI TCHE R
The edgestitcher is used in making
dainty lace insertions, edgings and
piping.
The slots in the edgestitcher serve
ATTACHMENT FOOT
in order to attach binder, edgestitcher and the hem
mers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and re
place it with the attachment foot. (Fig. 65)
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers by sliding
the attachment to the left as far as possible and
tightening the screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to
or as far away from the edge as desired. Just move
the attachment to the correct position before tightening
the mounting screw.
j -

as guides in sewing together various -I

pieces of material, if you want to
sew lace, lace and embroidery, or
lace and tucked strips together, place
the piece of material that will be on
top in slot 1 (Fig. 67) and the lower
fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you
are sewing lace edging to a finished
edge of fabric, place the fabric in
slot 1 and the lace in slot 4 (Fig.
67). Fig. 67
Fig. 66
 37

stitcher so that
to draw the lace and mate rial under the needle and back of the edge the ace in
Be sure stitch. Hold the fabric in the left hand and
the feed will carry it backward as you the lace shghtly.
the rtght, being sure the fabric overlaps the material in the same manner.
of
Rick-rack can be sewn to the edge g to the left
g place the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the pipin
To trim with wide pipin of the piping to the
fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge
in sot 3. for a narrow piping place
right in slot 3. stitching a French seam.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitcher. There ore
suggestions on how to use the edge
See Figs. 68, 69, 70, and 71 for
hundreds of other uses.

Fig. 68

Fig. 70 Fig. 71
38

BINDER

This attachment folds bias binding and applies it to the edge of material in one operation.
Slots on scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of commercially folded bias binding.
The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut inch wide.
FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 7)
Cut folder bind to a point , insert in appropriate
slot. Draw through slot and under binder with strong
pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust
by sliding binder to right or left.
TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 75)
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in one
operation. When two are used, always skip one size be
tween widths, inserting each in correct size slot.
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 74)

Cut inch bias binding fold in half for a couple

of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end, almost to
fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw back until
cut opens and binding encircles open end of scroll. Test
stitching to be sure it is on the edge, adjust if necessary.
See F:gs. 72
and 73 for sug
,
\ \ gestions on
/ / how to use the
/ / binder. There
are hundreds
of other uses.

Fig. 72 Fig. 73
Fig. 75
 39

THE SET OF HEMMERS

Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bob

bin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place,
hold top thread loosely and turn handwheel one full
turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp
bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontal
y under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will
catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hem-
me r.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, Fig. 76

hold at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and

up over spoon (Fig. 76). Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward to end o{ hem
and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitching.

HEMMER SET

You can make a hem “ or in width, depending upon which

hemmer you use. For a few of the many uses see Figs. 77, 78, 79, 80, 81.
and 82.
40
HEMMER SET

Fig. 77 Fig. 78

Fig. 80

Fig 79 \
Fig. 82
Fig. 81
 41

ING
THE ADJUSTABLE CORD
AND ZIPPER FOOT
make and
This attachment is used to
to sew in
insert covered cording, and
e
zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slid
left of nee dle.
foot to either right or

p of fabric
CORDING. Fold bias stri
over cord. Loosen thumb screw and
tered in needle Fig. 83
set foot so needle is cen Fig. 84
Machine bas te cor d in place
hole.
(Fig. 83—84). erial, reset adjustable
To sew covered cord to mat
r to cord, and on edge
foot so needle stitchesclose
of base fabric.
I
SEWING IN ZIPPER
e foot so needle enters
Loosen thumb screw and slid
center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along
edge of foot (Fig. 85). Stithing should be close to
and closing. Adjust to
zipper to allow easy opening
side, whichever is more
sew from either right or left
convenient.
Fig. 85
42

ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

Fig. 86 Fig. 87 Fig. 88

 43

RUFFLER
‘p

Fig. 89 Fig. 90 Fig. 91

The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.

Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of
a dress etc.

Fig. 89A Fig. 90A Fig. 9]A

44

RUFFLER

92 Fig. 93

Fig. 96

Fig. 94 Fig. 95
 45

SEWING TIPS
s of sheer collars.
cularly desirable for the inside seam
When a dainty hair line finish is parti eliminated by following
that would ordinarily show through is
facings, and yokes, seam allowance
g stitch,
the seam outline with a narrow zigza
to line of stitching, Turn and press.
Trim seam allowance close

Fig. 97 Fig. 98

EVENLY SPACED BUTTONHOLES

rately stitched, draw the outlines for
To make a row of buttonholes evenly spaced and accu
Pin this pattern to position on the garment
the buttonholes on one long strip of tissue paper.
with fabric strips under each markng. Stitch around the outlines then tear paper away.
46

SHAPING DARTS IN INTERFACINGS

i)
3
Fig. OO
Center 7.,—
--

Fig. 99
/,,-7
Cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Over -

lap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along

marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim both
raw edges close to stitching.

Fig. 101

Fig. 102
SEWING ON SHEER MATERIALS
Most fabrics need to be guided only in front of the presser foot as shown at left. Many flimsy
sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc.. require support while being stitched. For such fabric use the
straight stitch throat plate and presser foot and apply gentle tension by holding seam in front and
back of the presser foot as shown at right.