YARN COUNT &YARN
MODIFICATION
YARN COUNT/YARN SIZE/ YARN
NUMBER
The count of a yarn is
a numerical
expression which
defines its Fineness
It can also be called Yarn number or
Linear Density.
The different systems of expressing the yarn
number are:
1. DIRECT SYSTEM
2. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OR TEX SYSTEM
3. INDIRECT SYSTEM
Theses systems depends on the material used for
preparing the yarn are
DIRECT SYSTEM =
weight per unit of length of
yarn
INDIRECT SYSTEM =
length per unit of weight of
yarn
DIRECT SYSTEM (Denier)
The denier of the yarn is the
number of unit of weight per
unit of length.
The unit of length remains constant.
This system is used for silk, jute and
manmade fibers.
Weight in
The smaller the
number, finer the
Grams
yarn.
Length in 9000
m
Denier =
UNIVERSAL SYSTEM (Tex)
Tex system can be used from fiber to yarn stage.
This is a direct system of yarn numbering.
It is applicable to both natural and synthetic yarns.
Tex is defined as the weight of the yarn in grams
present in 1000 m or 1 km length.
Tex=
Grams
or 1 km
Weight
in
Length in 1000 m
INDIRECT SYSTEM (Count)
Count is the number of units of length per
unit of weight of yarn.
The unit of weight remains constant.
It is used for cotton, wool, worsted yarns and
linen etc.
The lower the count ,the coarser the yarn.
This system is also referred as Cotton system.
The count of the yarn is defined as number of
hanks to a pound.
INDIRECT SYSTEM
Several indirect systems are used in practice
depending on the type of yarn produced, and the
spinning system.
Cotton count
Wool count
Worsted count
Metric count
Cotton Count
For cotton yarns, the English or cotton
count is used to express yarn fineness.
The unit of length in an English count
system is the hank, 840 yd, and the unit of
weight is 1 lb.
No. of (840 yards) / 1 pound
An example of Indirect System
If 40 Hanks each containing 840 yards of the yarn
weigh 1 lb, then the yarn count is 40 and will be
expressed as 40s where s stands for singles.
If yarns of different count are twisted each count
is mentioned, as for e.g. 20/30s indicates twisting
together of a single 20s yarn and single 30s yarn.
Woolen /Worsted Count
For wool yarns, two indirect systems are
commonly used:
(i) the Woolen system, and
(ii) the Worsted system.
In the Woolen system, the unit length
(or the hank) is 256 yards, and the unit
of weight is pound.
In the Worsted system, the unit length
(or the hank) is 560 yards, and the unit
of weight is pound.
Metric System
"Metric"
system is commonly
used in Europe.
In
this system, the unit length is
kilometer, and the unit of mass is
kg.
System
Formula
Direct: weight per unit of length of yarn
Denier
Weight in Grams/9000 m length
Tex
Weight in Grams/1000 m length
Indirect: length per unit of weight of yarn
Cotton Count
No. unit length (840 yards) / 1
pound
Wool Count
No. unit length (256 yards) / 1
pound
Worsted Count
No. unit length (560 yards) / 1
pound
Metric count
No. unit length (1 km) / 1 kg
Yarn count conversion formula:
Fiber to Yarn Conversion System
Beesley Balances
Study of the relation of count and G.S.M
GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.
S/J
Count
S/J
GSM
Count
GSM
22
220
30
160
24
180
30
190
24
180
30
150
24
160
30
160
26
160
30
180
26
180
34
140
26
170
34
140
28
140
40
120
28
180
40
120
28
160
40
110
28
155
50
100
30
140
50
90
30
150
S/J Lycra
Actual count
Double Lacost
Count
GSM
30.0266
245
24
220
30.0266
200
24
220
30.0266
200
24
220
30.0266
200
24
220
30.0266
230
26
220
30.0266
210
26
160
30.0266
210
30.0266
200
34.0266
165
34.0266
165
34.0266
190
34.0266
165
40.0266
145
40.0266
40.0266
Interlock
Count
GSM
46
172
46
172
40
195
40
195
34
230
150
36
200
150
36
220
1 X 1 Rib
Count
GSM
1 X 1 Rib
GSM
Count
2X2 Rib
GSM
22
255
30
220
22
190
30
200
24
240
30
190
24
180
30
220
24
230
30
180
26
240
30
230
26
230
30
230
28
220
34
170
28
200
34
180
28
200
34
180
28
220
34
195
28
230
Count
GSM
28
220
28
220
28
320
28.0076
300
Equations at a glance
Fabric
Constants
Single jersey
y = -3.3465x + 256.56
Single jersey lycra
y = -6.6089x + 407.04
Single lacoste
y = -5.695x + 340.59
Double lacoste
y = -15x + 580
11 Rib
y = -4.496x + 342.35
22 Rib
y = 6140.4x 171676
Interlock
y = -4.3074x + 368.78
Yarn Modification
Processing of yarns
Yarn
processing is the first series of
operation
The steps varies for different fibers
In making fiber into yarns there are two
types of processes
1- General process- Common to many yarn
2- Texturizing process- To obtain special
textured
effect,extra
(5)
bulk,stretch
2. Texturizing process impartsa). a permanent loop, curl or crimp to
individual filament
b). more opaque
c). have a different appearance or feel
warmth
d). more absorbent
e). non-pilling quality
f). greater durability
g). moisture absorbent
filament yarnsbulk yarns
methods of adding texture/bulk:
false-twist process
draw-texturing
stuffer box
air-jet
knit-deknit
Single yarn
(Product of
first
twisting
operation)
Ply yarn
(Product of
second
twisting
operation)
Cord
(Product of
third
twisting
operation)
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2. Novelty yarn Made for their appearance
value.
Irregular in size, twist and effect.
Has three basic parts1. The ground or foundation
2. The fancy or effect
3. The binder
That are loose and bulky give crease
resistance to fabric.
Add interest to plain weave fabric.
If used in one direction, usually in filling
direction.
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Different type of novelty yarns:-
1-Slub Yarn
2- Flock Yarn
3-Spiral Yarn
(12)
4-Ratine Yarn
5-Boucle
Yarn
7-Core Spun Yarn
8Metallic Yarn
9-Chenille Yarn
(14)
SLUB YARN
A
slub yarn is one in which slubs
have been deliberately created to
produce the desired discontinuity of
effect.
Slubs are thick places in the yarn.
39
FLECK YARN
Small
amounts of fibres of either
different colours or lustre or both are
introduced into the yarn.
This gives it a spotted and short
streaky appearance
40
SNARL YARN
It
is same as loop yarns except that
the looping yarn has high twist so
that the
Loop turns into a snarl
41
LOOP YARN
A
loop yarn consists of a core with an
effect yarn wrapped around it
and overfed so as to produce almost
circular projections on its surface.
As a general rule, four yarns are
involved, of which two form the core
or ground yarns.
42
BOUCLE YARN
This is a compound yarn comprising a
twisted core with an effect yarn
combined with it so as to produce
wavy projections on its surface.
43
spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied
yarn that displays a characteristic
smooth spiraling of one component
around the other.
it can be produced relatively simply
on a doubling frame or under the
ring spinning system.
44
bulk yarn
yarn name:
boucle
yarn type:
spun
twist direction:
S
amount of twist:
low
yarn appearance:
texturized
fiber content:
100% acrylic
end uses:
yarn name:
4-ply
yarn type:
spun
twist direction:
S
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
carded woolen
fiber content:
86% acrylic
10% wool
4% rayon
end uses:
blended yarn
combination yarn
yarn name:
hand quilting thread
yarn type:
spun & filament
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
high
yarn appearance:
combed
fiber content:
68% polyester (core)
32% cotton
end uses:
blended yarn
yarn name:
textured
yarn type:
combination
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
texturized
fiber content:
52% acrylic
48% nylon
end uses:
combination ya
yarn name:
4 ply with metallic
yarn type:
spun & monofilament
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
combed
fiber content:
97% mercerized cotton
3% metallic filament
end uses:
On the basis of special
use
Some special used yarns are:-
1- Sewing thread
2- Embroidery
(25)
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