Woven Manufacturing I

prepared by: Guluma S.
2010 E.C
Chapter- 1
A technical preface to weaving

and sequence of machines in
weaving mill

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Cont...
There are four major methods of producing
fabric. These are:
Weaving
Knitting
Non woven fabric manufacturing and
Braided fabric manufacturing

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Cont...
Braided fabrics: yarns are intertwined,
twisted or knotted.
Non-woven: fibers/filaments/yarns are bonded
together.
Knitting: yarn is made in to a series of
intermeshed loops.

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Cont...
Weaving is the oldest method of fabric
manufacturing that started before 6000 years
ago by Egyptians.
Woven fabric is produced by the
interlacements of two sets of yarns at right
angle to each other.
The lengthwise threads are called warp while
the crosswise threads are called weft.

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Warp Yarn
Weft Yarn

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Cont...
In order to produce fabric on any type of
weaving machines, five motions are necessary.
Shedding
Picking Primary motions
Beat up
Warp let off
Auxiliary Motions
Fabric take up

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Cont...
Shedding: Separating the warp threads into two
layers to form a space for the passage of weft
threads.
Picking: Passing the weft thread through the
opened shed.
Beating-up: Pushing the newly inserted length of
weft into the already woven fabric at a point known
as the fabric fell.

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Warp control (or let-off): Delivers warp to the
weaving area at the required rate and at a
suitable constant tension by unwinding it from
a the weaver's beam.
Cloth control (or take-up): Withdraws fabric
from the weaving area at the constant rate that
will give the required pick.
The sequence of the primary motions and the
two additional motions and the timing
between each motions is very important.
why?

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Cont...

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Sequences of Textile mills

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The process sequences from blow room to ring
machine is called spinning process
The process sequences from winding to sizing
is called weaving preparatory process.
Spinning mills deliver yarn to weaving mills in
packages of different build and size, mostly in
cops and bobbins, sometimes in hanks and
cones.

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Cont...
For weaving on looms, it is necessary to have
packages of a certain build and size.
Warp yarns and weft yarns should be
preliminarily wound on suitable packages.

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Cont...
Preparation of warp yarn for weaving is essential
not only because weaving requires packages of
certain build and size, but also because the warp
yarn must be able to withstand destructive forces
to which it is subjected during the weaving
process.
Moreover, the warp yarn must be
sufficiently and regular in order to pass without
breaking through the drop wire eyelets, the healds
and between reed dents.

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Cont...
During winding, yarn is cleared from spinning
defects- slubs, thin and thick places
During warping, a certain number of ends of a
given length are wound in warpers in to a
package known as warping beam.
During sizing process, the yarn is impregnated
with a special glueing composition and hence
the warp yarn becomes stronger, smoother, and wears
resistance.

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Cont...
Moistening and emulsifying of weft threads
reduces the number of weft loops, corkscrews,
slough-offs as well as the weft yarn breakage
rate during weaving and ensures the
production of higher quality fabric.

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Cont...
Factors that must be considered during yarn
preparation.
- Package shape
- Package density and weight
- Yarn length on the package
- Package identification
- Yarn fault
- Frictional characteristics of the yarn
Why?

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Ch 2: Winding

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What is winding?
Winding process can be defined as the transfer
of spinning yarn from one package to another
large package in the form of cone, cheese or pirn.
The Objectives of warp winding process are:
Formation of suitable package for warping.

Checking and clearing the yarn from spinning
defects

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Technical Requirements of Winding
Process
1. The physical and mechanical properties of the
yarn should not be impaired .
2. Package should be built to ensure easy running
off (unwinding) during warping at high speed.
3. The package should contain maximum length of
yarn.
4. The yarn ends should be tied with strong knots
of correct structure easily passing at subsequent
processing
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Cont
5. The process should remove the objectionable

fault.
6. Yarn wastes must be as small as possible
7. The yarn tension should be regular and
ensure constant winding condition.

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Basic Mechanisms of Warp Winding
Process

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The Basic mechanisms of warp
winding process
There are three basic winding zones on
winding machines as shown on fig. above.
Unwinding zone
Tensioning , yarn clearing and
lubrication zone
Package built(winding zone)

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Cont

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Therefore,
Coarser yarn have higher tension.
High yarn velocity causes more tension on yarn
which leads to more breakage.
Tension is higher at nose as compared to
shoulder.
Tension increases with the increase in balloon
height.

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2. Tensioning
The needs for tensioning are:

It gives required winding density
It gives suitable tension to the yarn
It facilitates winding
It aids to remove weak yarns.

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Cont
Tension devises can be classified in to four
groups:
I. Multiplicative type (Post type or Capstan)
II. Additive type
III. Disc type (Combination of additive &
multiplicative type)
IV. Compensation type (Gate type)

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I. Multiplicative type (Post type or
Capstan)

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II. Additive type

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III. Disc type (Combination of
additive & multiplicative type)

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IV. Compensation type (Gate type)

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Cont
Therefore, we can generalize the following
points about each type of tension device:
In the case of multiplicative tension device, the
output tension depends on: input tension,
coefficient of friction, and angle of wrap.
In additive tensioning system, a dead weight or
spring is used to apply a normal force(N) to
change the tension.

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Cont
Since and N are approximately constants,
Tout is obtained by adding constant to Tin.
The out put tension is changed by changing N
In the case of combined tensioner tension is
changed by changing N or wrap angle.
In the compensation tensioner one movable
comb held by weight and the other is fixed. If
the tension of yarn is high, then the comb will
move inside to decrease the angle of wrap and
vise-versa.
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Cont
3. Yarn clearing
Yarn clearer is a device which detects and removes
yarn faults.
Yarn clearer can be grouped into:
Mechanical clearer
Electromechanical clearer
Electronic clearer
Capacitance type
Photoelectric type

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Cont
Yarn clearer is used to remove thin and thick
places on the yarn.
Mechanical clearer may be as simple as two
parallel blades.
The distance between the plates is adjustable
to allow only a predetermined yarn diameter to
pass through.
Mechanical clearer can only detects thick
places on the yarn.
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Cont

Fig. mechanical detector
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Cont
Electro mechanical process have both the
features of mechanical clearer and electronic
clearer.
In capacitive type clearer, the variation in mass
of the yarn passing through the plates changes
the capacitances of the unit.
It should be emphasized that the system
measures the mass of the yarn.

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Cont

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In a photo cell detector, the yarn passes
between a light source and a photocell .
Any fluctuation in yarn thickness causes the
fluctuation of light coming to the photocell,
which changes the resistance of the photocell.
This resistance change is detected by a signal
conditioning amplifier which can be set to
send a signal to cut the yarn and stop the
winding process.
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Cont
So every yarn break should be replaced with
either knot or splice.
Knots fastening made by tying a pieces of
yarn.
Splice joint of yarn ends by means of
pneumatic or mechanical i.e. pre-opening or
untwisting followed by intermingling and
twisting.

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Cont

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4. Winding (Package formation)
The yarn package which is suitable for further

processing is wound in the form of cone or
cheese, based on the next stage of processing.
Cone Cheese

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Cont
During winding the yarn undergoes two
motions.
It is wound around the package by the package
drive and it is given a lateral motion to cover
the package by the traverse mechanism.
The yarn is wound on the package by only
rotating the package.

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Consider a disc of radius of R, rotating at an
angular velocity then, the linear velocity
(tangential speed) of any point on the
circumference of the package is:
V R
Therefore, v = is the
function of and R

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The rotation of the package is accomplished in
two ways:
I. Spindle drive
II. Friction drive
Spindle drive winder: in this system, the
spindle , which holds the package, is driven
directly.

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Cont

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A constant speed winders: the spindle is
driven at constant speed, i.e. = constant.
As more yarn is wound on the package, R

increases, V increases.

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Cont
This is not desired situation because change of
V causes a change in tension, since
This type of problem is overcome by using the

variable speed spindle winders.

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Variable Speed Winder
In the V R , is Variable.
o As R increases (i.e. more yarn on the package),
will change to keep V = constant.
o To change , a variable speed motor or a
variable connection is needed which increase
the cost.

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Cont
Therefore, this system can be justified only for
delicate yarns.
Friction drive Winder:
In this system, the spindle, that carries the
package, is free to rotate and the package is
driven through surface friction between the
package and a driven drum or roller.

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Cont

Fig. Friction Drive
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Cont
At the point of contact A(assuming no
slippage), yarn, friction drum and package
have the same velocity, i.e.
Vy = Vd = d * Rd
Thus, a constant surface speed on the package
and almost constant yarn winding speed are
obtained.
This system is widely used for staple yarns.

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Traversing mechanism
A traversing mechanism is used to distribute
the yarn axially along the package.
There three ways commonly in use to traverse
the yarn to build-up the package.
I. Cam operation
II. Rotary or Drum traverse
III. Propeller or fun traverse

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I. Cam operation
The guide eye of the traverse motion oscillates
from side to side along the traverse and laying
the yarn in helix pattern on the package.
Speed is limited due to acceleration, sudden
stop and instantaneous change in direction.

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II. Rotary or Grooved drum traverse
It becomes more popular due to the lack of
speed limitation.
The yarn is guided along the traverse and back
by a groove in the driving drum, which is
helical (only the yarn has to change direction).
The drum is denoted as a 2- crossing drum,
2.5-crossing drum, or 3-crossing drum etc.

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Cont

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III. Propeller or fun traverse
The two blades are rotating in opposite
direction to lay the yarn on the package.
The mechanism works independently from the
package drive.
There is no mechanical speed limitation.
It is used for filament and delicate yarns.

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Cont

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Package Build
Wind: is coils of yarn laid on the package
surface per single traverse.
The wind per double traverse (Traverse
Ratio):is the number of coils laid on the
package during a double traverse, during the
time it takes the yarn to go from one side of
the package and return to the same side.

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Cont
Package rev / min
Traverse Ratio 2 * Wind
Double Traverse / min

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Cont
There are two types of package build.
a) Random winding:
the coils per double traverse decrease
from start to finish of the package
b) Precision winding:
the number of coils per double traverse
at the beginning of winding the package
is equal to the number of coils per
double traverse at the finish

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Cont...
It is most common and suitable for most staple spun
yarn.
It is unsuitable for continuous filament or delicate

staple-spun yarns as the friction contact, especially at
high speeds, causes yarn damage.
The yarn package is driven by contact with a driving

drum, which may be metal or plastic.
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Cont...
The yarn may be traversed by either the
cam system, propeller system or by a grooved
driving drum.
The traverse velocity and surface velocity are
constant and then it produces a constant angle
of wind and a constant winding rate.

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Cont...
The rotational speed of the package will decreases as its
diameter increases because of the relation.
Vs = Package diameter Rotational speed
Since, the surface velocity (Vs) and are constants

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Cont...
The effect of this is to cause a high traverse
ratio at the start of winding which decreases as
the package diameter increases. How?
Driving drum Driving drum

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Precision winding
In order to wind delicate yarns, such as
continuous filament and fine or low twist
staple-spun yarns, the yarn take-up package
must be directly driven, rather than driven by
friction as it is on a drum driven winder.
The traverse mechanism must therefore be
separate from the package drive.

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Cont...
At all the stages of build up the wind and
traverse ratio are constant since there is a
gear or belt drive between the package spindle
and the shaft on which the traverse cam is
mounted.

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Construction of repeat of yarn path
Steps
1. Sketch the cheese in two dimensional plane as
per the traverse length and the circumference of
the cheese
2. Dividing the length of the traverse in to the value
of numerator of the given traverse ratio
3. Dividing the circumference of the cheese by the
1
denominator of the wind ( i.e Wind * TR
2
4. Draw the yarn lines diagonally through the
squares
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Problem
A cheese of traverse length 40 cm is wound on
a precision winder on to a center of 10 cm
circumference. By developing the surface of
cheese in to a plane figure, draw one repeat of
the yarn path if the traverse ratio is 7 .
3
Solution:
TR = 7 3
Wind = 7/6

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Activity I
Construct repeat of yarn path on cheese of
traverse length 30cm and 10cm circumference
if:
i. TR = 9/2
ii. Wind = 5/4

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5. Yarn Lubrication
Lubricants are used for reduction of friction. A
lubricant (wax) is applied for knitting yarn
because the level of twist is low.
In winding of warp yarn, lubricants are not
used.

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TYPES OF WINDING MACHINES
There are two widely used types of winding
machine:
Drum winders
Precision winders
Drum winder is used to wind staple-spun
yarns into random-wound packages
Precision Winder is used for winding filament
yarns into precision-wound packages.
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Cont

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Cont

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Weft yarn preparation
The whole process of weft yarn preparation for
weaving consists of two operations
Weft yarn rewinding
Humidification or Emulsifying
The objectives of weft preparation process is to
supply the weft yarn packages with adequate
shape, size and moisture for weaving besides
improving the yarn properties by cleaning it
from trashes and partially eliminating spinning
faults
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Calculations Of Machines Productivity
Production of Warp Winding Machines:
The production of winding machine is
determined by the weight of the yarn wound
in a certain period of time.
Types of productivity calculations
Theoretical production
Actual production

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Cont
Pth = V *t * T * 10-6 [Kg/hr]
Where:
V = Average winding speed (m/min)
t = Rated working time (min)
T = Linear density of yarn (tex)
The actual production (Pa) of one spindle or
winding head:
Pa = pth * E where : E = machine efficiency
Pa = V *t * T * E * 10-6 [Kg/hr]
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Cont
Therefore the overall machine productivity is
given as:
P = Pa *n = V *t * T * n * E * 10-6
Where n = The number of spindles or winding
points.
Example: One of automatic winding machines
found in Bahir Dar Share Company has 96
spindles runs at an average speed of 600
m/min with an efficiency of 0.75
processing a 24 tex yarn. Then,
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Cont
a) Calculate the actual production of the
machine per shift of 8 hours
b) How many packages of cones will be
produced per day if the weight of each
package be 2.5kg?
c) What would be the average length of yarn
wound on each package?

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Cont
Solutions:
Given: v = 600m/min ;t = 8hr =480min
T = 24tex ; n = 96 spindles ; E = 0.75
a) P = Pa *n = V *t * T * n * E * 10-6
= 600m/min * 480min * 24tex *96* 0.75 * 10-6
= 497.664Kg/hr

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Cont
b) Total number of packages produced per day (N):
Actual production of the Machine / day

N
weight of yarn on sin gle package
497.664 * 3
N
2.5
= 597.197 = 597(b/c number of package is expressed

by whole number)

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Cont
c) from the formula, Tex mass( gr ) * 1000
length(m)
mass
l *1000
tex
2500
* 1000
24
104,166.67m

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Activity 2
1) An automatic winding machine which runs at
an average speed of 1200 m/min with an
operation factor of 0.85 processing 30 tex of
yarn, produces 2644 kg of yarn per day.
a) What would be the total number of spindles in
the machine if all the spindles are functioning?
b) What will be the value yarn tension if number
turns per meter of yarn is 30 and balloon
height is 15cm at package of 10cm?

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Thank you for today!!!

If you have questions
welcome!
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Woven Manufacturing I

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Woven Manufacturing I

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prepared by: Guluma S.

A technical preface to weaving

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

Formation of suitable package for warping.

prepared by: Guluma S.

5. The process should remove the objectionable

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

The needs for tensioning are:

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

The yarn package which is suitable for further

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

As more yarn is wound on the package, R

prepared by: Guluma S.

This type of problem is overcome by using the

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.

prepared by: Guluma S.