Jaisalm The Golden city

Jaisalmer is named after Rawal Jaisal, a Bhati ruler

er
who founded the city in 1156 AD. Jaisalmer means the
Hill Fort of Jaisal. Jaisalmer is sometimes called the
"Golden City of India" because the yellow sandstone
used throughout the architecture of both the fort and
the town below, imbues both with a certain golden-
yellow light.

Jaisalmer fort
 Jaisalmer
fort
Jaisalmer Fort is situated in the city of Jaisalmer, in
the Indian state of Rajasthan. It is believed to be one of
the very few (perhaps the only) "living forts" in the world,
as nearly one fourth of the old city's population still
resides within the fort.[1] For the better part of its 800-year
history, the fort was the city of Jaisalmer. The first
settlements outside the fort walls, to accommodate the
growing population of Jaisalmer, are said to have come up
in the 17th century.

View of Jaisalmer fort

 Canons at jaisalmer fort

Introduction

Jaisalmer is located in the arid plains of west Rajasthan in

the midst of the vast Thar desert. It is a region of deficient
rainfall averaging about 15cms a year and therefore only
sparse vegetation is found. The ground water in the greater
part is impregnated with salt thus making it unsuitable for
human consumption. The main source of water was Gadisar
lake, just beyond the outer fortification on the south side
until the Indira Gandhi Canal was introduced in the 1970s.
Jaisalmer developed as one of the most interesting towns
dominated by the trading community. Because of the wealth
in the town, its architecture was rich and elaborate.

The city was founded in 1156 AD by Rao Jaisal as a military

fort and trading post for the east-west route.
Built entirely out of yellow sand stone, on top of a hillock and
its slopes, with nothing else in the vicinity, the city is a dense
mass with little sense of scale when viewed from a distance.
With strong circular bastions of the fort wall, the city stands
in the middle of the desert like a piece of sculpture. It is
difficult to visualize that it is so porous and harbouring life,
because it gives an impression of solidity. As one gets closer,
one feels that the city is carved out of a solid stone rather
than constructed piece by piece with stone over stone.
However once inside the city the experience shifts to the
buildings and the details, and a strong sense of scale prevails.

City Form
In its overall shape, Jaisalmer is an irregular polygon with a
double line of fortification. It is a city within a city. The
inner city is more protected with a stronger wall and is set
on top of a hill about 100 meters higher than the
surrounding area. The city is triangular in shape due to the
shape of the hill on which it is built.
The Royal Palace with the Royal Square forms the nucleus
of Jaisalmer. There is only one entry point to the fort,
leading to the Royal Square through a series of check
points in terms of gates (pols).
plan of the city
Compactly built, the city has many tall buildings, up to seven stories high, giving it a fairly dense and vertical
effect. The city structuring manifests itself in two strong ways : the location of the Royal Quarters on top of the
hill with the strong fortification and secondly the dispersal of communities is affected by caste groupings
making distinct residential zones of different communities.
there is little evidence of class distinction which is evident from the manner in which some of the houses of the
rich and the poor are dispersed in both the upper and the lower cities. The market square with its bazaar
structures in the lower city and the Royal Square with the temples holds the upper city together.

Public spaces in Jaisalmer may be classified according to their types. The major categories are : The Royal Square in
the center of the upper city ; public spaces like Gandhi chowk and Gopa chowk ; community spaces at the level of
residential clusters.

The Royal Square is a very well conceived space forming the core of the upper city as well as the Royal quarters. It
has a high quality of architectural order. On reaching the entrance to the square through a winding and well
guarded path, one sees very few buildings; actually one views the horizon just above the fort wall. Only on
turning around does one find the richly ornamented Royal Palace and the temple exhibiting exquisite
craftsmanship. Visitors and traders met the king and the community in this square. The king's throne occupies
one corner of the square at a diagonal, overlooking the square. The square acts as a key linking element and as a
nucleus in the upper city thus holding it together. Market squares, such as Gandhi Chowk, Gopa Chowk etc. are
all located in the lower city. These squares build part of a sequence of spaces and streets forming the main
bazaar. Starting with Gandhi Chowk, just inside the western wall of the lower city, one is lead through the main
bazaar
 Walls and bastions, with the fortified city behind, and
lower city and countryside

Jaisalmer fort raj mahal

 House Form
The architecture of the city displays a strong sense of
anonymity which is essentially a cultural trait. In some of the
oriental cultures it is part of life and comes naturally to the
people. This expression is found specially in domestic
architecture. The spaces aquire non specific character. They
change in their use as the morning changes to noon and the
noon changes to evening. They are also used differently in
summer and in winter. The interior open spaces like
courtyards, terraces and balconies have special significance
under such situations. They accommodate variety of
activities during different seasons and different times of the
day. The whole idea of a house in Jaisalmer is developed Courtyard
around the idea of 'privacy'. This has generated very specific
elements and expressions.
The ground floor has no openings facing the street except
the entrance door. A kind of platform called otla is
developed in front of the houses where people do not have
such a strong notion of privacy. The house starts to open up
as one moves inward. Although the need for privacy from
the house across the street is less as compared to from the
strangers passing by on the streets, but even that has been
carefully worked out by inclining the stone jali work of the
jharokhas down at an angle of 45 degrees. With compact
organization, the house and the streets become very close to
each other, so the most natural thing was to close the house
to the exterior and open it to the interior thus making the
courtyard an extremely important feature of the house.
The clay and the mirror work has a rural character. Yet
there is a sense of design, continuity and resemblance in
terms of the house form, and these houses are well
integrated with the urban fabric of Jaisalmer.
 street

Section through house 1-2

Second floor plan

First floor plan Terrace floor plan

Ground floor plan

second floor plan
Ground floor plan
House 1 First floor plan
House 2
Jaisalmer, Haveli
URBAN MICROCLIMATES
 URBAN MICROCLIMATES

Climate
Jaisalmer is located in the middle of the Thar Desert and as
such is exposed tothe desert’s extreme conditions. Summers
are very hot (up to 40 °C), winters arecool, and there are
large diurnal temperature swings. The climate is also
quitedry throughout the year and thus solar radiation is
invariably intense. Finally,strong winds from the south-
west bring in dust storms during May and June.

Context
The city is relatively contained, with a population of 58,000,
and is closely bordered by the Thar Desert. The old fort at
the center of the city sits atop a hill, which aided its defense
in its early days but has also left it exposed to the summer
dust storms. 2.2 This aerial view from atop the fort's walls shows the
densly packed, winding streets of Jaisalmer. (Dipanjan) 2.3
Solutions
The street canyons are very tall and narrow, almost
Dust completely protecting against direct solar radiation at the
The buildings in Jaisalmer employ various techniques to street level. The canyons taper at the top to allow a usable
create a microclimate in the streets and public spaces of the street width while maximizing shade. (Cakebread, Gemma)
city. At a large scale the streets themselves are laid out to 2.4 The facades of the buildings in Jaisalmer are textured
prevent winds from entering and building up. The main which, besides being decorative, also increases the surface
area of the facade. This allows the buildings to cool down
streets run east-west to protect from the primarily south-
more quickly at night, and increases the self-shading of the
west summer winds (Figure 2.1). The streets are also narrow building. (asisbiz.com)
and winding, preventing breezes that do enter from
building up speed along their length.
2.5 A tapering street canyon and adjustable awnings
reduce the amount of heat absorbed by the buildings.
Nathmalji’s “haveli”
 Nathmalji’s “haveli”
This Nathmal Ji ki haveli was commissioned to serve as the residence of Diwan Mohata Nathmal, the then Prime
Minister of Jaisalmer. Maharawal Beri Sal commissioned the construction of this Haveli. The architects of this
haveli were Hathi and Lulu who happened to be brothers. There is a very interesting story regarding its
construction. It is said that the two brothers started building different facets of haveli simultaneously. In those
days there were no such instruments, which could keep a track on continuity and thus when this building came up
finally it had irregular shape.

Barring that, this haveli is still considered the best in Jaisalmer in terms of grandeur. There are other minute
details worth appreciation. For example there are two Elephants made of yellow stone. These life-size replicas have
been put in front of the main entrance so that it looks as if they are guarding the Haveli. Other than these, there
are pictures engraved on pillars and walls. These consist of Horses, Cattle, and depiction of Flora among other
things. But the most interesting aspect of this haveli is the drawing of modern amenities such as cars, fans etc. It is
said and believed that the Architect brothers dint see these things ever in their life and engraved it with mere help
of their descriptions given by people who had seen it.

Thus the architecture present in this haveli is quite different from the one popular in other parts of Jaisalmer. The
workmanship of Jaisalmer havelis is an amalgam of both Rajput architecture as well as Islamic art that was
imported via the traders' caravan through the desert.
Nathmalji’s “haveli”

• The building is planned around two courtyards, the one in the front is much smaller than the rear one .
• The front part of the building is three storeys high and has the main living quarters.
• The rear portion is two storey high and contains the ancillary accomodation.
• The material used for wallsin this haveli is mostly light
sandstone where as limestone has been used for the upper
storeys and façade since it can be easily carved.
• The stone joints are made without mortar and are held
together using iron cramps.
• Due to thick walls and mud plaster, it reduces the thermal
load on the building.
• Uneven building forms also influences radiative heat loss
from walls.
• Also increased wall area of the uneven building mass
radiates a greater amount of heat to the sky and
consequently stays cooler than a more compact mass.
• The drawing room of the family is located on the
first floor above the entranceway.
• This richly decorated room is two storeys high.
• There are timber shuttered window openings
towards the street and a large number of small
ventilation holes in the upper part of the room.
• Together, these openings ensure heat removal
by ventilation .

• The courtyards provide the necessary light and ventilation

for all the surrounding rooms.
• While the front receives some sunlight during the
summer, the rear courtyard is completely exposed to sun.
• The streets and the two narrow shafts are completely
protected from the sun.
• The differential heating of the vertical ducts ensures
continuous airflow through the house.

• Windows and balconies are generally fitted with jallis or

lattice windows (shutter like windows) for privacy as well to
restrict dust but at the same time let in wind.
• Doors are built with stone frames and fitted with timber
doors.

• The roof is made of closely spaced

timber beams and then is covered by a
layer of reed or grass matting and
finally laid by a layer of earth on top .
• These are then finished with stone
floorin or mud plaster .
• The layer of earth and grass matting
keeps the interiors cool.
patwon ki haveli jaisalmer
The havelis are also known as the ‘mansion of brocade merchants’. This name has been given
probably because the family dealt in threads of
gold and silver used in embroidering dresses. However, there are theories,
which claim that these traders made considerable amount of money in Opium smuggling and
Money-lending.
PATWON KI HAVELI
HISTORY OF THE HAVELI
The history of the Kothari’s Patwa Haveli dates back to early eighteenth century, when thepatwas were
struggling to set up their trade and business. On the advice of a priest at the Jain Temple, the patwa brothers
left Jaisalmer with the intention of never returning (they were advised by the priest that their business could not
flourish in Jaisalmer). The legend has it that the patwas were immensely successful thereafter and their business
spanned across banking & finance, silver, brocade and opium trade.
Eventually, patwas rose to such heights that they were called upon to finance the state deficit. This brought the
clan back to their old habitat. The then head of the family, Ghuman Chand Patwa, decided to gift each of his
five sons a separate and elaborate mansion, ignoring the advice of the priest. Thus came up the five grandiose
havelis facing the Jailsamer Fort.
Unfortunately, the lives of the patwas took a ‘u’ turn after their return to Jaisalmer and their fortunes started
dwindling. Consequently, they had to abandon the city-state again, leaving the havelis at the mercy of care
takers. The care takers became the owners in the course of time and decided to put the havelis up for sale. Care
taker of the first haveli approached Mr. Jeevanlalji Kothari, who was a native of Jaisalmer and like patwas had
left Jaisalmer to explore better opportunities. Mr. Kothari, with a view to remain connected with his native place,
decided to buy the first haveli. Hence it was renamed as the Kothari’s Patwa Haveli.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE HAVELI

• Socio-Cultural Aspects: The chowk or courtyard served as the centre for various ceremonies and the rituals.
The sacred tulsi plant was placed here and worshipped daily to bring prosperity to the house.
• Security and Privacy: The chowk, at times, separated areas for men and women, and provided them with
privacy. Climate: Treating open space in building design to respond to the local climate. Air movement
caused by temperature differences is utilized in the natural ventilation of building.
• Different Activities At Different Times: The use of the court in the day time, mostly by women to carry out
their work, interact with other women in private open space. Mansions of merchant class had more than
one courtyard.
• Articulation Of Space: In Mor chowk, City Palace, Udaipur, there is the concept of courtyard as a dancing
hall. Similarly, in havelis, a courtyard has several functions, commonly used for weddings and festive
occasions.
• Materials : Fired bricks, sandstone, marble, wood, plaster and granite are commonly used materials.
Decorative aspects are influenced by local culture and traditions.
• All these elements join to form an enclosure and give the chowk a composed secured feel. The architectural
built form of havelis has evolved in response to the climate, lifestyle and availability of material. In hot
climates where cooling is a necessity, buildings with internal courtyards were considered the most
appropriate. It acted as a perfect shading technique, while also allowing light inside. The arcade along the
court, or the high wall around it, kept the interiors cool.
 Salim Singh Ki Haveli Jaisalmer
Salim Singh Ki Haveli, Jaisalmer – an architectural wonder!
PATWON KI HAVELI

This haveli was built in the first half of the 18th century and a part of it is still occupied by descendants of the
original residents. This mansion is famous for its peculiar architecture as it comprises of 38 elegant carved
balconies. The architecture of this mansion is inspired by dancing peacock. One of the most aspiring
constructions of its times, the Haveli is so impressive, that it even invited the ruler’s envy during its era.
Legend has it that there were two additional wooden storeys that made it match the Maharaja’s palace in height,
but he ordered for the upper level to be demolished.
This 300-year-old piece of architecture is a piece of sheer elegance and when built was way ahead of its times. The
extraordinary blue cupola roof that this haveli had is just another reminder of how ecstatic this haveli was. This
place carries a lot of history and therefore is one place for History lovers to visit.
Like other havelis in Jaisalmer, this too has tuskers guarding the gateways. These are made of sandstones and
look very close to the original in appearance.
 Natural Cooling Systems of Jaisalmer
Reference-Vinod Gupta
Assistant Professor of Architecture, School of Planning and Architecture, New Delhi 110002,
India.

TOWN LAYOUT
It is in this context that Jaisal Singh founded his fort on one of the hilly outcrops of the Aravalli range, called
"Trikut“ because of its triangular plan. One major reason for selection of this site was the availability of sub-surface
water. The fort was built on the hilltop, generally following its triangular geometry. Surrounded by protective
fortifications, the houses and palaces were approached through narrow streets. Unlike other Indian forts, which are
characterised by strong rectilinear geometry and open spaces, this one had few community open spaces. With influx
of population from the surrounding areas, the fort was in time completely built up and further expansion of the
settlement took place at the foot of the hill. The construction of the town was started in 1725 A.D. (Agarwala, 1979).
For various socio-cultural reasons, the town plan of Jaisalmer developed in the form of "padas"
based on clan or profession and this division persists til today. During the years 1750 to 1850 A.D. additions to the
town included fortifications around the town and the construction of many beautiful residential buildings called
"Havelis". The most famous of these are Nathmaiji's haveli, Salim Singh's haveli and the five havelis belonging to
Patuas. The town plan of Jaisalmer is not entirely dissimilar to that of older Indian cities like Delhi. Relieved from the
limiting geometry of the triangular hill on which the fort is built, the town is more interesting from the point of view
of climatic adaptation and the present work is devoted to the study of this part of Jaisalmer.
A 5 to 6 metre high wall surrounds Jaisalmer
town (Fig.3). A number of gates called Prols,
define the entry points of the town. There is one
major bazaar, which connects the Amar Sagar
Prol at the eastern end to the Garhisar Prol on
the western side of the town. The famous havelis
and the major residential area are located to the
north of the bazaar. Figure 4 shows an enlarged
and simplified plan of this area.
There are major streets oriented almost E-W and
minor streets at right angles to these.
HOUSE FORM
Depending upon the socio-economic status of the inhabitant, there are three types of
houses in Jaisalmer. The simplest town house (Fig. 5) consists of a single room, a verandah
and a courtyard. Larger houses of this type have another verandah over the entrance and
some houses have an additional room on one side of the courtyard. Three singlestorey
structures are owned by the poorest people and have been built in the peripheral areas of
the town. The second type of house (Fig. 6) belongs to the middleincome people. A two or
three-storey structure, this house type can be considered the typical house of Jaisalmer. It is
similar to the first house type in plan, with the only difference that additional rooms and
small enclosed terraces are located at the upper floors. The front part of the first floor has a
balcony projecting onto the street.\

The most complex and interesting residential buildings

in Jaisalmer are the havelis (Fig.7) built by the rich
merchants or courtiers. In these four or five-storied
houses, the courtyard is surrounded by rooms or
verandahs on all sides. There are underground rooms
as well, sometimes at two levels one below the other. The
uppermost storey comprises terraces enclosed by wind
pavillions and high parapet walls. In some cases, the
house is built around two courtyards.
 NATURAL COOLING SYSTEMS
Layout
In Jaisalmer, the layout of the town is the first defence against the harsh climate. Even though the major streets
are not particularly narrow, the street orientation of WNW-ESE ensures that the building facades are either
shaded by the balcony and sunshade projections (for high solar altitude and south facing facades) or by the
buildings opposite.

Uneven Building Form

An uneven building form can also influence radiative heat loss from the building to the sky. In most
calculations of heat loss from walls, the radiative component is usually neglected because it is assumed that
walls will "see" other walls at the same temperature and, therefore, the magnitude of radiative heat loss will
be extremely small. This assumption is not justifiable in all situations and the increased wall area of an
uneven building mass radiates a greater amount of heat to the sky and consequently it stays cooler than a
more compact mass. Thus it is to be expected that the uneven built form of Jaisalmer with large wall areas
helps in keeping the building cool.

ventilation
In Jaisalmer buildings, a number of interconnected
vertical shafts are used for ventilation. The courtyard
effect
(Koenigsberger, 1971) is well known and used in almost all
hot-dry climates. In addition to the simple courtyards,
very narrow vertical ducts and staircase shafts are used to
deflect wind down into the house in Jaisalmer

As walls have been protected from solar radiation, the main

area of solar heat gain in buildings becomes the roof. The
massive roof construction with 0.45m or more of earth
ensures a very small decrement factor (0.162) and a large
(24hour) time lag.
Almost all houses in Jaisalmer have a basement; but these
rooms were designed to be used only as strong rooms for
valuables. The temperature underground remains almost
constant throughout the year due to the absence of any
heat load and due to rapid decay of the ambient
temperature wave in soil. But in Jaisalmer in no case are
such rooms ventilated or lighted, as they are not used as
living space.
 https://www.tripadvisor.in/Attraction_Review-g297667-d2162853-Reviews-
Salim_Singh_ki_Haveli-
Jaisalmer_Jaisalmer_District_Rajasthan.html#photos;aggregationId=101&albumid=1
01&filter=7&ff=376770895
http://www.jaisalmerandaround.com/blog/nathmal-ji-ki-haveli-in-jaisalmer/
http://www.jaisalmerandaround.com/blog/the-golden-city-of-rajasthan-jaisalmer/
http://www.rajasthantourstoindia.com/city/jaisalmer/salim-singh-ki-haveli
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