Crazy Horse Carb School

CRAZY HORSE MOTORCYCLES
Carburetor Class
www.crazyhorsemotorcycles.com
Mikuni Motorcycle
Carburetor Theory
Motorcycle carburetors look very complex, but with a little theory, you can tune your bike for
maximum performance.
All carburetors work under the basic principle of atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure
is a powerful force which exerts pressure on everything. It varies slightly but is generally
considered to be 15 pounds per square inch (PSI).
This means that atmospheric pressure is pressing on everything at 15 PSI. By varying the
atmospheric pressure inside the engine and carburetor, we can change the pressure and
make fuel and air flow.
Atmospheric pressure will force high pressure to low pressure. As the piston goes
down on a four stroke engine a low pressure is formed above the piston on a four stroke.
This low pressure also causes a low pressure inside the carburetor. Since the pressure is
higher outside the engine and carburetor, air will rush inside the carburetor and engine until
the pressure is equalized.
The moving air going through the carburetor will pick up fuel and mix with the air.
Cycles
Engine
layout
• Inside a carburetor is a Venturi. The Venturi is a restriction inside the
carburetor that forces air to speed up to get through. A river that suddenly
narrows can be used to illustrate what happens inside a carb. The water in
the river speeds up as it gets near the narrowed shores and will get faster if
the river narrows even more. The same thing happens inside the carburetor.
The air that is speeding up will cause atmospheric pressure to drop inside
the carburetor. The faster the air moves, the lower the pressure inside the
carburetor.
Carburetor Circuits
Most motorcycle carburetor circuits are governed by throttle
position and not by engine speed.
There are five main metering systems inside most motorcycle
carburetors. These metering circuits overlap each other and
they are:
* pilot circuit
* throttle valve
* needle jet and jet needle
* main jet
* choke circuit
Drawing
of Carb
View of
Carb
Pilot Circuit
The pilot circuit has two adjustable parts. The pilot air
screw and pilot jet. The air screw can be located either
near the back side of the carburetor or near the front of the
carburetor.
If the screw is located near the back, it regulates how much
air enters the circuit. If the screw is turned in, it reduces
the amount of air and richens the mixture.
If it is turned out, it opens the passage more and allows
more air into the circuit which results in a lean mixture. If
the screw is located near the front, it regulates fuel.
The mixture will be leaner if it is screwed in and richer if
screwed out. If the air screw has to be turned more than 2
turns out for best idling, the next smaller size pilot jet will
be needed.
The pilot jet is the part which supplies most of the fuel at low throttle openings. It has
a small hole in it which restricts fuel flow though it. Both the pilot air screw and
pilot jet affects carburetion from idle to around 1/4 throttle.
Slide Valve
The slide valve affects carburetion
between 1/8 thru 1/2 throttle. It
especially affects it between 1/8 and
1/4 and has a lesser affect up to 1/2.
The slides come in various sizes and
the size is determined by how much
is cutaway from the backside of it, fig
3. The larger the cutaway, the leaner
the mixture (since more air is allowed
through it) and the smaller the
cutaway, the richer the mixture will
be. Throttle valves have numbers on
them that explains how much the
cutaway is. If there is a 3 stamped
into the slide, it has a 3.0mm
cutaway, while a 1 will have a 1.0mm
cutaway
(which will be richer than a 3).
Jet Needle
The jet needle and needle jet affects carburetion from 1/4 thru 3/4 throttle. The jet
needle is a long tapered rod that controls how much fuel can be drawn into the
carburetor venturi.
The thinner the taper, the richer the mixture. The thicker the taper, the leaner the
mixture since the thicker taper will not allow as much fuel into the venturi as a leaner
one. The tapers are designed very precisely to give different mixtures at different
throttle openings. Jet needles have grooves cut into the top.
A clip goes into one of these grooves and holds it from falling or moving from the
slide. The clip position can be changed to make an engine run richer or leaner, fig 4.
If the engine needs to run leaner, the clip would be moved higher. This will drop the
needle farther down into the needle jet and cause less fuel to flow past it. If the clip
is lowered, the jet needle is raised and the mixture will be richer.
The needle jet is where the jet needle slides into. Depending on the inside diameter
of the needle jet, it will affect the jet needle. The needle jet and jet needle work
together to control the fuel flow between the 1/8 thru 3/4 range. Most of the tuning
for this range is done to the jet needle, and not the needle jet.
Jet Needle
Main Jet
The main jet controls fuel flow from 3/4
thru full throttle.
Once the throttle is opened far enough, the jet needle is pulled high enough out
of the needle jet and the size of the hole in the main jet begins to regulate fuel
flow. Main jets have different size holes in them and the bigger the hole, the more
fuel that will flow (and the richer the mixture). The higher the number on the main
jet, the more fuel that can flow through it and the richer the mixture.
Choke
The choke system is used to start cold engines.
Since the fuel in a cold engine is sticking to the cylinder
walls due to condensation, the mixture is too lean for the
engine to start.
The choke system will add fuel to the engine to compensate
for the fuel that is stuck to the cylinder walls.
Once the engine is warmed up, condensation is not a
problem, and the choke is not needed.
Air/Fuel Mixture
The air/fuel mixture must be
changes to meet the demands
of the needs of the engine. The
ideal air/fuel ratio is 14.7 grams
of air to 1 gram of fuel. This
ideal ratio is only achieved for
a very short period while the
engine is running. Due to the
incomplete vaporization of fuel
at slow speeds or the
additional fuel required at high
speeds, the actual operational
air/fuel ratio is usually richer.
The drawing to the right
shows the actual air/fuel ratio
for any given throttle opening.
Working Range
Jetting Troubleshooting
Carburetor troubleshooting is simple once the basic principles are known.
The first step is to find where the engine is running poorly.
It must be remembered that carburetor jetting is determined by the throttle
position, not engine speed.
If the engine is having troubles at low rpm (idle to 1/4 throttle), the pilot system or
slide valve is the likely problem.
If the engine has problems between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, the jet needle and needle
jet (most likely the jet needle) is likely the problem.
If the engine is running poorly at 3/4 to full throttle, the main jet is the likely
problem.
Preparing to Tune
While jetting carburetors, place a piece of tape on the throttle housing. Place another piece of tape on the
throttle grip and draw a line (while the throttle is at idle) straight across from one piece of tape to the other.
When these two lines are lined up, the engine will be idling.
Now open the throttle to full throttle and draw another line directly across from it on the throttle housing. At
this point, there should be two lines on the throttle housing, and one on the throttle grip. Now find the half-
way point between both of the lines on the throttle housing.
Make a mark and this will show when the throttle is at half throttle. Divide the spaces up even again until
idle, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full throttle positions are known. These lines will be used to quickly find the exact
throttle opening while jetting.
Start Tuning
Clean the air filter and warm the bike up. Accelerate through the gears until the throttle is at full throttle (a
slight uphill is the best place for this).
After a few seconds of full throttle running, quickly pull in the clutch and stop the engine (Do not allow
the engine to idle or coast to a stop). Remove the spark plug and look at its color. It should be a light
tan color (for more info on reading spark plugs click here). If it's white, the air/fuel mixture is too lean and
a bigger main jet will have to be installed. If it's black or dark brown, the air/fuel mixture is too rich and a
smaller main jet will have to be installed. While changing jets, change them one size at a time, test run
after each change, and look at the plug color after each run.
After the main jet has been set, run the bike at half throttle and check the plug color. If it's white, lower the
clip on the jet needle to richen the air/fuel mixture. If it's dark brown or black, raise the clip to lean the
air/fuel mixture.
The pilot circuit can be adjusted while the bike is idling and then test run. If the engine is running poorly
just off of idle, the pilot jet screw can be turned in or out to change the air-fuel mixture. If the screw is in
the back of the carburetor, screwing it out will lean the mixture while screwing it in will richen it.
If the adjustment screw is in the front of the carburetor, it will be the opposite. If turning the screw
between one and two and a half doesn't have any affect, the pilot jet will have to be replaced with either a
larger or smaller one. While adjusting the pilot screw, turn it 1/4 turn at a time and test run the bike
between adjustments. Adjust the pilot circuit until the motorcycle runs cleanly off of idle with no
hesitations or bogs.
Altitude, Humidly, and Air Temperature
Once the jetting is set and the bike is running good, there are many factors that
will change the performance of the engine.
Altitude, air temperature, and humidity are big factors that will affect how an
engine will run. Air density increases as air gets colder. This means that there are
more oxygen molecules in the same space when the air is cold.
When the temperature drops, the engine will run leaner and more fuel will have to
be added to compensate. When the air temperature gets warmer, the engine will
run richer and less fuel will be needed. An engine that is jetted at 32deg
Fahrenheit may run poorly when the temperature reaches 90deg Fahrenheit.
Altitude affects jetting since there are less air molecules as altitude increases.
A bike that runs good at sea level will run rich at 10,000 ft due to the thinner air.
Correction factors
Humidity is how much moister is in the air. As humidity increases, jetting will be
richer. A bike that runs fins in the mornings dry air may run rich as the day goes on
and the humidity increases.
Correction factors are sometimes used to find the correct carburetor settings for
changing temperatures and altitudes.
The chart in fig 8, shows a typical correction factor chart. To use this chart, jet the
carburetor and write down the pilot and main jet sizes. Determine the correct air
temperature and follow the chart over to the right until the correct elevation is
found. Move straight down from this point until the correct correction factor is found.
Using fig 8 as an example, the air temperature is 95deg Fahrenheit and the altitude
is 3200 ft. The correction factor will be 0.92. To find out the correction main and
pilot jets, multiple the correction factor and each jet size. A main jet size of 350
would be multiplied by 0.92 and the new main jet size would be a 322. A pilot jet
size of 40 would be multiplied by 0.92 and the pilot jet size would be 36.8.
Correction factors
Correction factors
Correction factors can also be used to find the correct settings for the needle jet,
jet needle, and air screw. Use the chart and determine the correction factor.
Then use the table below to determine what to do with the needle jet, jet needle,
and air screw.
Roll Off Method
1: Main Jet Size: How to Get it Right
Mikuni HSR-series carburetors are remarkably versatile instruments. The standard

tuning seldom needs more than small adjustments to accommodate a wide range of
engine set-ups. One of the more common required changes is the main jet size.
Aftermarket exhausts have a wide range of flow volumes and the best main jet size
is closely associated with exhaust flow. Thus, it is often necessary to replace the
standard main jet with a different size to accommodate the wide range of exhaust
designs on the market. However, it is easy to get the main jet right for a particular
exhaust system using one of the techniques described on this page.
The standard main jet fitted to the HSR42 is a number 160. This size is correct for
stock mufflers. Typically, an HSR42 combined with aftermarket exhaust system
needs a 165 main jet. The general rule is that HSR42s fitted to engines with loud
exhausts usually run best with a 165 main jet.
The HSR45 has a number 175 and the HSR48 a 190. These jets are more suited to
modified engines with free flowing exhaust systems.
Roll Off Method
Keep in mind that the main jet does not affect mixtures until approximately 3/4
throttle. Below that throttle setting, specifically between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, air/fuel
mixtures are controlled by the jet needle and needle jet.
It is relatively easy to get the main jet correct. Follow either of the techniques
described below. Both are satisfactory but the Roll-On procedure is more
accurate.
NOTE:
The following tuning techniques might result in excessive (illegal) speed and
increased risk from the speed and the necessary distraction of doing the test. We
recommend that the testing be done on a closed course (track) or on a
dynamometer, if one is available.
Roll Off Method
ROLL-OFF:
The Roll-Off technique is the quickest and is almost as accurate as the Roll-On
method. First, one gets the engine warm on the way to a safe roadway. If there is
room, use fourth gear as this allows more time to assess the result.
Now, get the engine rpm high enough that it is on the cam and in its power band.
This may need to be as high as 4000 rpm with some cam choices. Apply full
throttle. Let the engine accelerate for a couple of seconds until it has settled in
and is pulling hard. Quickly roll the throttle off to about the 7/8ths position. When
you do this, the mixture richens slightly for a second or so.
If the engine gains power as you roll the throttle off, then the main jet is too small
and you need to fit a larger one.
If the engine staggers slightly or has a hard hesitation, then the main jet is too
large and you need to fit a smaller one.
Poor Mid-Range Performance
2: Poor Mid-Range Performance
Possible Causes:
1.Carburetor Tuning
2.Exhaust system
3.Too much cam
4.Ignition
5.Low compression pressure
Carburetor Tuning:
Typically, mid-range performance is controlled by the jet needle/needle jet

combination. This is because the majority of mid-rpm operation is at low throttle
settings or on the highway at cruising speeds of 50 - 70 mph. The HSR42 or
HSR45 can deliver enough air/fuel mixture to support these speeds with throttle
openings between 1/8th & 1/4, where the straight-diameter part of the jet needle
controls fuel flow.
Mid-Ranged Performance
Mikuni supplies four different jet needle sizes to accommodate tuning
requirements in this range, one set of four for the HSR42, four for the HSR45 and
another set for the HSR48. They differ only in the diameter of the straight section
of the needle. The leanest is J8-8DDY01-98 (HSR42 example part number) and
the richest is J8-8CFY02-95 (HSR45 example part number). We commonly refer
to these needles by their "dash" number (-95, -96, -97 or -98).
Flat throttle response in the mid-rpm range is seldom caused by either an over-rich
or overly lean condition. Flat mid-rpm performance is more likely due to the effects
of the cam or exhaust design. If the needle size is incorrect, it will normally reveal
itself as poor mileage (too rich), slow warm-up (too lean) or light detonation when
accelerating moderately from around 2500 to 2900 rpm (again, too lean).
A typical FXD (either engine type) motorcycle will deliver around 45 mpg at 65
mph on a flat, windless road. A heavy touring machine (FLHT- series) may be
down a few mpg from that standard. Fuel mileage in the 30s indicates a rich
condition.
Mid-Range Performance
Please refer to the tuning manual, available on the Manuals page for instructions
on diagnosing and tuning.
Note:
Confusing symptoms is one of the most common errors in diagnosing carburetor

tuning inaccuracies. For instance, low power at 60 mph (2500 rpm) in top gear
may have one or more of several causes: The exhaust system may not work well
at that rpm, the cam design may not work well at that rpm, the ignition timing could
be incorrect for that rpm, or, --- the carburetor could be set too lean or too rich at
that throttle opening.
Notice that when the carburetor was mentioned above, it is the throttle opening we
refer to and not the rpm. This is an important difference.
While the performance of other engine components depend, to a large extent,

upon rpm, the carburetor only responds to the position of its throttle valve (slide)
and the amount of air flowing through it (and sometimes the direction of that air
flow).
Mid-Range
One of the most valuable carburetor tuning aids is to change rpm (down or up
shift) while holding the same road speed. An example: The engine gives poor
acceleration from 60 mph (2570 rpm) in top gear. If you maintain the road speed
and down shift to fourth gear, the throttle setting will remain essentially the same
but the engine rpm will increase 20%. If the poor top gear acceleration is due to,
say, poor exhaust system performance at that rpm, then, the problem will either go
away, get better or at least change its character. If, on the other hand, the problem
is carburetor tuning, the poor acceleration will remain the same because the
carburetor throttle opening is the same.
Exhaust system:
Straight pipes:
Open straight pipes perform poorly in the 2500 to 3800 rpm range. If they are 34"
or longer, they do not perform really well at any rpm.
Mid-Range
Symptoms include missing, backfiring through the carburetor, reversion (fuel
dripping out of the air cleaner) and poor acceleration.
Open mufflers:
"Gutted" mufflers with stock (or stock-like) header pipes tend to perform poorly in
the same rpm range as straight pipes and exhibit similar symptoms.
Long thin mufflers:
Long, small diameter mufflers with full-length baffles often exhibit the same
symptoms as straight pipes, although their over-all performance may be better.
High performance 2-into-1 systems:
These systems are often poor performers in the 2000 to 3000 rpm range. Most 2-
into-1 exhaust systems deliver a significant torque dip at 2500 which is slightly less
than 60 mph in top gear for most stock Harley Big Twins.
Header pipe diameter:
Mid-Range
The great majority of Harley engines, of any displacement, do their best work with 1-
3/4" diameter exhaust pipes. Larger pipes tend to suppress mid-rpm performance
and, for that matter, seldom deliver the best power at high rpm either.
Header pipe length:
The stock header pipe is about 30". Multiple tests, made by several groups, confirm
this length as being very nearly the best for all-round performance. Shorter (less than
27") and longer (over 32") header pipes significantly reduce peak power, throttle
response and over-all performance. An exception to this "rule" are a couple of the
high performance 2-into-1 systems which work very well with longer (and un-even)
header pipe lengths. Stock Harley header pipes are near-perfect in diameter and
length.
Muffler size:
It is not possible to make a muffler quiet, small and powerful at the same time. One
can choose power and small, quiet and small but not all three. The reason stock
mufflers are poor performers is because they are small and quiet.
Mid-Range
However, small and loud is not a guarantee of performance. In general, small
mufflers with large straight-through, perforated tube baffles (looks like a tube with
many holes drilled in it) make the most power and the most noise. An exception to
this rule (there may be more) are the popular H-D Screamin' Eagle (and Cycle
Shack) small slip-on mufflers which perform very well yet are not straight-through
designs. The popular louvered core baffles restrict flow at full throttle & high rpm
and reduce power a bit as a result.
Too much cam:
The most important cam timing event is when the intake valve closes. The intake
closing point determines the minimum rpm at which the engine begins to do its best
work. The later the intake valves close, the higher the rpm must be before the
engine gets "happy."

High rpm cam designs often perform poorly in the rpm range associated with
ordinary riding. The problem with such choices is that the engine seldom spends
time in the rpm range favored by such cams. Unfortunately, in the quest for
maximum power output, many-too-many Harley owners choose a late-closing, high-
rpm cam for their engine.
Mid-Range
A majority of any Harley motor's life is spent in the mid-portion of is rpm limits, between 2000
and 4000 rpm. At open-road cruising speeds, that range is more like 2500 to 3500 rpm. With
current Big Twin gearing, top gear at 2500 rpm returns a road speed of 60 mph and 3500
delivers 84 mph.
Riders sometimes "putt" around at 2000 or less. Even when accelerating to cruising speed,
few of us use more than 4000 - 4500 rpm as a shift point. Very seldom, in day-to-day use, do
our engines get near 5000 rpm, let alone 6000.
Even the mildest of Harley-Davidson's aftermarket cams (Evo or Twin Cam) do their best
work above 3000 rpm. At 2000, the majority these cams seldom perform as well as the stock
cam(s).
The rpm at which a Big Twin gets "happy" can be predicted by the closing point (angle) of
the intake valves. The angle is expressed as the number of degrees After Bottom Dead
Center (ABDC) that the valves reach .053" from being fully seated.
30 degrees = 2400 rpm

50+ degrees = 4500 rpm
Mid-Range
These relationships are approximate but should hold true to within 200 rpm or so. They also
assume that all other tuning factors, exhaust, ignition, etc., are operating correctly.
If you have one of the late-closing cam designs installed, say one that closes the intake
valves later than 40 degrees, then you cannot expect excellent performance at 2000 rpm. No
carburetor adjustment, ignition adjustment or exhaust system can change this.
Ignition:
Stock H-D Evo Big Twin ignitions have two advance curves ---- a quick advance curve for
part-throttle, light load running, and, the very slow advance curve for mid to full-throttle
running. It is this second curve that determines the ignition timing when accelerating even
moderately.
While not the most common reason for 'soft' or 'flat' acceleration in the mid-rpm range, the
stock Evo ignition doesn't help.
The Screamin' Eagle Evo ignitions have the same full throttle advance curve as the stock
ignition. The only difference between the two is the rev limiter rpm which is 5200 for the stock
unit and 8000 (much too high) for the Screamin' Eagle ignition.
Mid-Range
Ignitions with quicker advance curves, such as the CompuFire (curves 6,7 or 8) or Dyna 2000 (#1 curve
only) have aggressive advance curves and improve throttle response and part-throttle performance in the
mid-rpm range, especially below 3000 rpm.
These two examples are that only; there are other after market ignitions that also contain quicker advance
curves.
Stock Twin Cam ignitions are more complex than the earlier Evo type. They use a manifold pressure/engine
revolution rate system for choosing ignition timing for any combination of rpm and throttle setting. We have
no reason to recommend non-Harley ignitions for the Twin Cam engines.
Low compression pressure:
The higher the pressure within the combustion chamber when the air/fuel mixture is ignited, everything else
being equal, the more power your engine produces and more efficiently it runs. However, if the pressure it
too high, detonation (pinging) may occur which can destroy an engine.
Each combustion chamber design has an upper pressure limit above which serious, damaging detonation is
likely. With modern American 92 Octane lead-free gasoline, a reasonable upper pressure limit is 180 psi for
the Evo Big Twin and 190 psi for the Twin Cam. A well-tuned motor should not suffer detonation with these
pressures.
Mid-Range
The standard method for determining the compression or cranking pressure of an
engine is to remove the spark plugs, install a standard compression gauge into one
of the spark plug holes and, with the throttle full-open, crank the engine over with
the starter motor until the pressure gauge needle stops rising. This usually takes 4 -
8 compression strokes. Both cylinders should be tested.
Stock Evo and Twin Cam motors develop cranking pressures in the 150 psi range.
If a late-closing cam is installed, with no other changes, the cranking pressure will
go down. The reason high compression ratio pistons and racing cams are so often
associated is because the higher compression ratio pistons (and/or milled heads)
are needed to regain even the normal moderate cranking pressures, let alone raise
them for more power and efficiency.
Low cranking pressures (because of late closing cams and stock pistons) can
significantly reduce performance in the mid-rpm range.
Backfire
Backfires Through Carburetor

Common Causes:
Ignition: The factory Evolution engine's ignition can contribute backfiring through
the carburetor.
Cam design: Long duration cams with early opening intake valves can contribute to
backfiring.
Intake manifold air leak: A lean condition due to an intake manifold air leak can
cause backfiring.
Carburetor jetting: An overly-lean low-speed circuit, non-functioning accelerator
pump or clogged pilot jet can contribute to backfiring.
Backfire
Ignition:
Harley ignition systems have been “dual fire” for decades. Virtually all stock
Evolution engines, Big Twin & Sportster, have dual fire ignitions. The PP100 used
in the Gilroy era Indians came stock with duel fire. The exceptions are the EFI
touring bikes and the 98 & later Sportster Sport models. All Twin Cam engines are
fitted with single fire ignitions. Under normal conditions dual fire ignitions present no
problems. However, when combined with high performance long duration cams the
stock ignition can cause premature ignition of an air/fuel mixture entering the rear
cylinder. This, in turn, results in backfiring through the open intake valve into the
intake system.
Backfire
Dual fire ignitions fire front and rear cylinder spark plugs together. One of the sparks
starts combustion while the other is wasted in other cylinder which is not on its firing
stroke.
When the rear cylinder is getting a useful spark, the front cylinder ís spark is
occurring near the middle of its exhaust stroke. There is nothing to burn in the front
cylinder at this time.
However, when the front cylinder is getting its useful spark, the rear cylinder is on its
intake stroke and a combustible mixture may be present. If that mixture is ignited by
the “wasted” spark, then a backfire occurs as the burning mixture forces its way past
the intake valve and out through the intake manifold and carburetor.
Single fire ignitions can often eliminate carburetor backfiring since they do not
produce a wasted spark in the rear cylinder. In fact, single fire ignitions can
generally eliminate backfiring in any Harley. For instance, EFI and Twin Cam
engines very seldom backfire through their intakes; both have single fire ignition
systems.
Backfire
Cam design:
The earlier the intake valve opens the more likely the dual fire ignition will ignite
air/fuel mixture in the rear cylinder. High performance long duration cams open the
intake valves earlier than the stock one. This is the main reason why modified
Harley engines tend to backfire through the carburetor more frequently than stock
engines.
Intake manifold air leak:
A common and continuing problem with Harley engines is air leaks around the
junction of the manifold and the cylinder heads. Carburetor/manifold leaks are
much less common. An air leak can cause carburetor backfiring.
Other symptoms of an air leak include a slow return to idle or an irregular idle.

Backfire
Carburetor jetting:
Excessively lean carburetor settings can contribute to backfiring. If the mixture is

too lean, it may burn very slowly and unevenly. This condition, in turn, may
result in burning mixture remaining in the cylinder until the beginning of the next
intake stroke when it can ignite the incoming air/fuel mixture.
A too-small or partially blocked pilot jet can bring about this condition.
An accelerator pump adjustment that starts the pump too late can cause this
problem.
A partial vacuum in the fuel tank can reduce fuel flow and bring about a lean
condition. The common factory Harley gas cap that incorporates a one-way
valve (for emission purposes) sometimes restricts air flow into the tank. This
restriction can result in a partial vacuum and fuel flow restriction.
Backfire through Exhaust
Backfires in Exhaust

Note:
It is normal for many high performance exhaust systems to moderately backfire or

pop when the throttle is closed from mid-to-high rpm. In fact, one should expect a
well-tuned high performance engine to "pop" and "crackle" when the throttle is
closed at high rpm.
The popping is a result of the air/fuel mixture becoming very lean when the throttle
is closed and the engine is rotating well above idle speed. It is also necessary that
the exhaust system have rather open mufflers.
Backfire-Exhaust
Why This (normally) Happens:
1) When the throttle valve is in the idle position, fuel does not flow out of the main
system (needle, needle jet, main jet). Fuel is only delivered to the engine by the
pilot (idle) system.2)The combined effect of the closed throttle and elevated engine
rpm is to create a fairly strong vacuum in the intake manifold. This vacuum, in turn,
causes a high air flow rate through the small gap formed by the throttle valve and
carburetor throat.3)Under these conditions the pilot (idle) system cannot deliver
enough fuel to create a normal, combustible air/fuel ratio. The mixture becomes too
lean to burn reliably in the combustion chamber. It gets sent into the exhaust
system unburned and collects there.4)When the odd firing of the lean mixture does
occur, it is sent, still burning, into the exhaust system where it sometimes ignites
the raw mixture that has collected ---- the exhaust then pops or
backfires.5)Completely stock Harleys do not do this until open-end mufflers, such
as the popular Screamin' Eagle slip-ons, are installed. The exhaust must be both
free-flowing and have an open exit for the popping to occur.
Backfire-Exhaust
Other possible causes:
Air Leaks:
Any source of fresh air into the exhaust system can create or worsen the conditions
that bring about exhaust backfiring. The most common entry point is the junction of
the header pipes and mufflers. Even a small air leak can dramatically increase the
intensity or likelihood of exhaust system backfiring.
A high temperature silicone sealant, as can be found in many auto parts stores, may
be used to seal the pipe/muffler junction.
Lean Carburetion:
While exhaust system popping may be considered normal, it is certainly made

worse by an overly lean idle circuit.
Backfire-Exhaust
Be sure that your carburetor's pilot jet is the correct size and that the idle air
mixture screw is correctly adjusted before looking for other causes of popping.
The procedure for adjusting the pilot circuit is covered in the Tuning Manual.
Ignition:
If exhaust system popping is very loud, irregular and accompanied by loss of

power, then you should suspect that the ignition system is not performing as it
should. If, for some reason, the ignition sometimes fires at the wrong time, then
exhaust popping can become very energetic (loud). Look for failing high tension
leads (plug wires), failing ignition coil(s) and especially switches or connectors as
possible causes.
Spark Knock
Detonation ("Spark Knock")
Detonation, often called pinging, is nothing less than a series of small explosions
that take place within an engine's combustion chambers. It can be extremely
destructive, breaking pistons, rod bearings and anything else from the pistons
down that a large hammer could damage. It is best avoided.
Pinging is a descriptive name for detonation. Pinging is that high pitch ringing
sound that an engine sometimes makes when the throttle is opened with the
engine under load. It sounds as though the cooling fins are ringing as they do when
you quickly run your finger nail over their edges.
Pinging indicates trouble. Trouble that does damage. That damage can be quick
and catastrophic but usually isn't. Most often, detonation occurrences are small in
energy and the engine is able to absorb the punishment, at least temporarily.
However, over time, even light detonation does harm; weakening pistons and
overheating the top piston rings.
Severe detonation can destroy an engine literally in a heart beat.

Spark Knock
HOW IT HAPPENS
After a spark ignites the air/fuel mixture in an engine's combustion chamber, the
flame front travels across the chamber at a rate of about 5000 feet per second.
That's right, one mile per second.
Flame front travel for detonation is closer to 19,000 to 25,000 feet per second; the
same rate as in dynamite. The difference between normal combustion and
detonation is the rate at which the burning takes place and therefore the rate of
pressure rise in the chamber. The hammer like blows of detonation literally ring the
metal structures of the motor and that is what you hear as pinging.
Detonation occurs when the air/fuel mixture ignites before it should. Normal burning
has the flame front traveling from the spark plug(s) across the chamber in a
predictable way. Peak chamber pressure occurs at about 12 degrees after top
dead center and the piston gets pushed down the bore.
Spark Knock
Sometimes and for various reasons a second flame front

starts across the chamber from the original source of ignition.
The chamber pressure then rises too rapidly for piston
movement to relieve it. The pressure and temperature
become so great that all the mixture in the chamber explodes.
If the force of that explosion is great enough --- the engine
breaks.
WHAT CAUSES IT Spark Knock
Anytime the combustion chamber pressures become high enough, detonation occurs. Anything that
creates such pressure is the cause of detonation.
Here is a list of possible causes, it may not be complete:
Timing - if the spark happens too soon, the chamber pressure may rise too high and detonation results.
Gasoline - if the gasoline burns to quickly (a too-low octane rating), high pressure and detonation are
likely.
Glowing objects - a piece of carbon, a too hot spark plug or other glowing object can start burning too
soon. Pressure rises too high and detonation can happen.
Cranking pressure - Any given combustion chamber has a maximum pressure (before the spark is
struck) beyond which detonation is likely.
High engine temperatures - High chamber temperatures raise cranking pressure and promote
detonation.
Lean jetting - Weak air/fuel mixtures can result in very uneven mixtures within the chamber, uneven
burning, pressure spikes and detonation.
Note that each of these possible causes are relative. That is, there is no absolute timing, mixture strength
or ignition timing that is going to guarantee detonation. Equally, there are no absolute settings that
guarantee that detonation does not occur.
Spark Knock
Motorcycle manufacturers, Harley-Davidson included, spend a great deal of time and money
fine tuning their engines to eliminate or nearly eliminate detonation. When we change the
engine design in the direction of detonation by, say, raising the compression pressure with
domed pistons or milled heads, we increase the chance of detonation actually occurring.
Gasoline quality helps determine whether or not an engine is going to detonate. The higher the
octane rating, the lower the chance of detonation.
Modified engines often have had several engine design changes that, combined, increase the
likelihood of detonation. High compression pistons, thin head gaskets, some alternative
ignitions, some exhaust system designs, etc.
Stock street bike carburetion is very lean for emissions purposes. When the air cleaner and/or
exhaust system are replaced by less restrictive components, this stock jetting becomes
impossibly lean. The engine does not run well and detonation is likely at some throttle settings.
Re-jetting or wholesale carburetor replacement (Mikuni!) is the cure for this particular problem.
If one fits high compression ratio pistons together with an early closing (mild) cam, the
cranking pressure may become high enough that serious, engine-deadly detonation is likely.
How much is too much you ask?
Spark Knock
Well (Rule of Thumb here), Evolution engines are fairly safe against detonation if the cranking pressure
remains at 180 psi or less. The TC88 motor can dodge detonation if the pressures remain at 190 psi or
less. Keep in mind that these maximums are for fairly stock engines; no porting, no chamber work and no
squish areas.
A well shaped combustion chamber with squish effect is much less likely to detonate than most stock
examples. The main reason the TC88 engine can withstand higher cranking pressures than the Evo is its
better chamber design.
Cranking pressure here refers to the number one gets by conducting a normal compression test. This test
is done by removing the spark plugs and fitting a compression gage in one of the spark plug holes.
The throttle is then held open and the engine cranked with the starter until the gage needle stops
climbing. The resulting number is the cranking pressure.
Ignition systems are important. If the spark plugs fire too soon, the combustion pressure may rise too
quickly bringing on detonation. The main reason for having an advance curve built into an ignition system
is to avoid detonation. The correct timing for any given engine design (and state of tune) varies with rpm
and throttle setting.
Hot spots is more than a night club. If your engine has been running rich or burning oil, it may have thick
bits of burned-on carbon. This carbon build-up can literally glow and, under the pressure of compression,
start burning before the spark is struck. This leads to severe pressure excursions and, often, detonation.
Spark Knock
Lean carburetion can lead to detonation. Uneven combustion in over-lean air/fuel mixtures can
escalate pressures and bring about sudden explosive burning. Also, lean mixtures elevate
chamber temperatures which, as you now know, can lead to dreaded detonation.
If all this leads you to think that your engine is in imminent peril, then we have succeeded.
Detonation is a terrible thing to happen to your expensive Harley engine. The pressures of
those explosive events can be enough to hammer rod bearings, pistons and rings into useless
junk.
If you hear the tell-tale ringing of detonation next time you open the throttle on a hot day or at
low rpm or after a tank of questionable gasoline, back off the throttle and ride carefully until
you can find and render harmless this demon visiting destruction upon your motor.
Poor Mileage
6: Poor Mileage
"Normal" fuel mileage normally varies somewhat depending upon a number of factors. An
average range for an FXD-series Harley is: 45-51 miles per gallon at 65 mph on a flat road
with no wind. The large touring models typically deliver about five miles per gallon less. Fuel
mileage of less than 40 mpg at a steady 65 mph (flat road, no wind) indicates a possible
mechanical or tuning problem.
Common causes:
Choke cable installation:

An incorrectly installed choke cable can lead to poor fuel mileage.
Carburetor tuning: An incorrectly jetted carburetor can lead to both poor fuel mileage and
performance.
Speed: Fuel consumption increases dramatically with speed.
Head wind: Fuel consumption increases when riding into the wind.
Weight: Motorcycles require more fuel when climbing.
Size: Larger (touring) models create more wind drag.
Engine efficiency: Highly developed engines use fuel more efficiently. Poorly tuned ones do
not.
Poor Mileage
Choke cable installation:
There must be some free play in the choke cable to ensure that the starter (choke) plunger is
fully closed. If the choke is held even slightly open, poor mileage, sluggish performance and
fouled spark plugs may result.
Harley choke cable
If you are using the Harley choke cable (the word Choke on the knob is white), use this
procedure to determine if the choke is closing completely:
Pull the choke knob out fully.
Loosen the friction nut just enough to allow the choke shaft to move freely. The friction nut is
located behind the choke knob. It is thin and has ridges around its outer edge like a coin. If you
turn the friction nut out too far, it will interfere with your ability to detect free play in the choke.
Now, move the choke knob in fully. Gently pull the knob out. There should be a small amount
of free play before you feel the tension of the choke return spring.
If there is no free play:
Poor Mileage
Check the routing of the cable. The stock Harley cable is very stiff and tends to bind in the
metal elbow at the carburetor-end of the cable. The end of the cable slips into the metal
elbow and can jamb. The joint (cable/elbow) is hidden by a rubber cover. Push the cable
end fully into the elbow.
If this does not cure the problem, it is possible that the choke cable assembly was not
assembled correctly. You must use the Mikuni choke plunger and spring with the Harley
choke cable. If you install the complete Harley assembly (cable, plunger and spring), the
Harley plunger will not seal and the air/fuel mixture will be very rich, especially at idle and
low throttle settings.
Mikuni choke cable:
The Mikuni choke cable is identified by the small brass bump in the center of the knob.
Mikuniís cable is much more flexible that the stock Harley cable and seldom jambs.
However, it is possible that its length adjustment can be incorrect in a particular installation.
Check for free play by gently pulling the knob. It should move freely for a short distance
before the force of the return spring is felt. Even a slight amount of free play is enough.
If there is no free play, check the routing of the cable to make sure that it is not kinked or
pinched by other components. If necessary, peel the rubber cover back and adjust the
length of the cable to introduce a small amount of free play.
Poor Mileage
Carburetor tuning:
Mikuni HSR42/45/48 carburetors are jetted to meet the requirements of the great majority of
engine tuning setups. The HSR-series is very tolerant of engine tuning variations. However, it
is certainly possible that minor tuning adjustments may be desirable to achieve maximum
performance and/or maximum fuel economy with some engine component combinations.

Normal highway cruising speeds (65 mph/ 100 kph) require rather low throttle openings,
generally less than º throttle. Air/fuel ratios in this throttle range are controlled by the pilot
circuit together with the jet needle and needle jet. Thus, poor fuel economy at normal cruising
speeds should be addressed by altering or adjusting these parts.
Pilot system:
The pilot circuit has one replaceable part and one adjustable part. The pilot jet is replaceable
and the pilot air screw is adjustable. If the jet is too large or the air screw is in too far, the
air/fuel mixture may be too rich. However, it is very unlikely that the pilot jets installed at the
Mikuni factory (#20 or #25) can cause a dramatic loss of fuel economy. Some HSR45s are
fitted with #35 pilot jets and these may be too rich for well-tuned engines. See the tuning
manual elsewhere on this website.
Poor Mileage
Jet needle:
There are four different jet needles. Their part numbers are: J8-8DDY01-95, -96, -97 and ñ98
(J8-8CFY02-xx for the 45 & 48). We commonly refer to them as a ìdash 97, dash 98, etc.î The
current standard jet needle is a ì-97.î
The only difference between each needle is the diameter of the straight part of the needle.
This is the portion of the needle that controls air/fuel mixture strengths between idle and
approximately º throttle. So, when a mixture change needs to be made in this range, it is
necessary to exchange jet needles. Raising or lowering the needle has no effect on mixtures
below º throttle.
The jet needle is both adjustable and replacable. Its height can be adjusted (via an ìEî clip and
five grooves) to change mixture strength between º and æ throttle. Lowering the jet needle
leans the mixture and raising it richens the mixture.
Main jet:
The main jet becomes the main fuel control at approximately 3/4 throttle. The main jet has no
effect on fuel mileage under any but the most extreme riding conditions.
Poor Mileage
Speed:
Fuel consumption increases dramatically with speed. For instance: If you wish to double the
speed, your engine must produce approximately eight times as much power. Thus, if 20
horsepower gets you 100 miles per hour, you'll need 160 HP to go 200. From this
relationship it is easy to understand why fuel economy drops so dramatically between
normal cruising speeds (65 - 75 miles per hour in America) and higher speeds around or
above 85 mph.
Head wind:
Fuel consumption increases when riding into the wind. If you ride at 60 mph with a 20 mph
headwind the fuel mileage is be better than if you were going 80 mph with no head wind.
However, there is still a significant loss of fuel economy.
Weight:
Heavy motorcycles require more fuel when climbing. This is simple to understand; the more
weight lifted, the more energy (fuel) needed to lift it. Thus, a 20 percent heavier motorcycle
requires about 20 percent more fuel to climb a mountain at a given speed than the lighter
machine.
Poor Mileage
An engine that has been modified to perform best in a higher-than-normal rpm range may
suffer a dramatic loss of fuel economy if it is operated under load at an engine speed
below its design minimum.
Size:
Larger (touring) models create more wind drag.
Engine efficiency:
Highly developed engines use fuel more efficiently. Poorly tuned ones do not.
Manifolds
7: Which Manifold?
The great majority of HSR installations use the stock intake manifold that has been fitted to all
Big Twins and Sportsters for more than 20 years. This manifold is an excellent performer. It is
reliable, has excellent airflow and is available. We recommend its use.
However, Should you choose to fit a Mikuni HSR45 or 48, you must fit a manifold other than
the stock one. Also, if your engine has larger ports (the large S&S motors for example) or the
heads have a non-standard spacing (many S&S strokers or some other clone engine designs),
then you must fit a non-standard manifold.
Mikuni produces an alternate manifold design. Our manifold's two piece construction allows us
fit different rubber flanges that accept 42, 45 or 48 millimeter HSR carburetors.
All current (May 2002) Mikuni manifolds are machined to fit stock (40mm) intake ports and
cannot be used with large (usually 45mm) ports. Also, they are machined to fit engines with
stock cylinder head spacing only. We make both Evo and Twin Cam versions of our manifold.

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CRAZY HORSE MOTORCYCLES

Mikuni HSR-series carburetors are remarkably versatile instruments. The standard

Typically, mid-range performance is controlled by the jet needle/needle jet

Confusing symptoms is one of the most common errors in diagnosing carburetor

While the performance of other engine components depend, to a large extent,

Header pipe length:

Too much cam:

30 degrees = 2400 rpm

Low compression pressure:

Intake manifold air leak:

Excessively lean carburetor settings can contribute to backfiring. If the mixture is

It is normal for many high performance exhaust systems to moderately backfire or

While exhaust system popping may be considered normal, it is certainly made

If exhaust system popping is very loud, irregular and accompanied by loss of

Severe detonation can destroy an engine literally in a heart beat.

Sometimes and for various reasons a second flame front

Here is a list of possible causes, it may not be complete:

Choke cable installation:

Harley choke cable

Larger (touring) models create more wind drag.

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