Raja Ravi Varma was a famous Indian painter from the 19th century known for his depictions of scenes from Hindu epics and sari-clad women. In Kerala society at the time, it was customary for high-caste women to leave their breasts uncovered as a sign of their status. Wearing an upper cloth was seen as immodest. However, in some of his allegorical paintings, Ravi Varma depicted women wearing drapery not typical to Kerala, reflecting wider Indian norms. The way women were dressed in his paintings both represented Kerala customs but also aimed to appeal to a pan-Indian audience.
Raja Ravi Varma was a famous Indian painter from the 19th century known for his depictions of scenes from Hindu epics and sari-clad women. In Kerala society at the time, it was customary for high-caste women to leave their breasts uncovered as a sign of their status. Wearing an upper cloth was seen as immodest. However, in some of his allegorical paintings, Ravi Varma depicted women wearing drapery not typical to Kerala, reflecting wider Indian norms. The way women were dressed in his paintings both represented Kerala customs but also aimed to appeal to a pan-Indian audience.
Raja Ravi Varma was a famous Indian painter from the 19th century known for his depictions of scenes from Hindu epics and sari-clad women. In Kerala society at the time, it was customary for high-caste women to leave their breasts uncovered as a sign of their status. Wearing an upper cloth was seen as immodest. However, in some of his allegorical paintings, Ravi Varma depicted women wearing drapery not typical to Kerala, reflecting wider Indian norms. The way women were dressed in his paintings both represented Kerala customs but also aimed to appeal to a pan-Indian audience.
The Female Figures of Ravi Varma and the Concepts of Family ,
Marriage and Fatherhood in Nineteenth Century Kerala
Submitted by: Lakshmipriya
P Santhosh II MA ENGLISH Roll no: 3303 Raja Ravi Varma Raja Ravi Varma (29 April 1848 – 2 October 1906) was an Indian painter and artist from the princely state of Travancore (presently in Kerala) who achieved recognition for his paintings depicting scenes from Indian literature including the epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana. He is considered among the greatest painters in the history of Indian art and his paintings are considered to be among the best examples of the fusion of Indian traditions with the techniques of European academic art. Varma’s paintings portrayed sari-clad women in graceful manner which became an important motif of that time, reproductions being found in many homes. The Lady with a Mirror(1894) • Also called as “ A Nair Lady at Toilet” • The interchangeability of title represents contradictions • These deprived the female figures of the attributes of their essentially Kerala Nair identity. • This deprivement was a kind of atonement for the “morally degraded” condition of womanhood(through different institutions of marriage- polygamy, polyandry etc.) • It was also done to arrange it to the wider pan-Indian situation. • the drapery was so out of sort with the habits of dress of the Kerala society of Ravi Varma’s age. • It denatured the natural qualities • Throws light upon the cultural norms regarding dress enforced by society The collective representations • The different hair-dos, costumes, ornaments, of his female figures-represent the mix of culture- in order to stand for the collective womanhood. • Similar is the case with his male paintings- Janaka- Breaking The Bow, Amma Thampuran
•The dressing is factual
•Young girl- sits cool and composed with no upper garment to cover her breasts •Grandmother/old figure- with a thin cloth wound round her armpit and tucked up above the breasts. •Similar is the case with the paintings “ There Comes Papa”, “ Veena Player”, “ Malabar Beauty” •All these paintings had the same dressing styles in order to depict Kerala domestic scenes • But in Allegorical/Metaphorical paintings , Ravi Varma has used Non-Malayali drapery. • Eg- “ The Alms Giving”, “ In A Sense”, “ We are Equal” etc. Upper cloth varieties • The way of dressing, without blouse, was in use only among the royal lineage and Nair nobility of Travancore region • The hairdo and heavily crafted gold ornaments served the evidence of their hierarchical status and family honour • In the 19th century , the upper cloth used to cover breasts were practically unknown as a manner of dressing • The Nair women of social and economic status could use an upper cloth, but in imitation of Namboodiri women, they were required to be leave their breasts uncovered above the waist in presence of Brahmin/respectable gentlemen. • Low caste women had to leave their bosoms uncovered • Covering bosoms was considered as “disrespect towards the upper class men “ and was considered as “ immodestly dressed” or “overdressed” • It was a way of recognition of a person’s caste. Breast Tax • Nangeli and her revolt against Breast Tax Collection • Tax collected depending upon the size and proportion of breasts. • Chopped off her breasts as a symbol of protest when the officials came to collect the tax. • She died of bleeding but laid the foundation for an impending revolt of great vigour. Breast cloth revolt (1813-59) Chandumenon’s • Also called as “Maru Marakkal Samaram” Indulekha • Nadar Climbar women were the initiators •Educated and belongs to upper class • Many converted to Christainity- as they •Wears a THIN white cloth around her breasts considered everybody equal and gave the •Chandumenon did not risk his freedom to wear upper cloth. contemporary heroine. •Wearing of a thin white cloth was not • It ended finally on 26th July 1859 a viloation of the universally honoured code. •English educated , she disapproved of her marriage againt Suri Namboodiri Women paintings • Ravi Varma did not risk his Nair beauties-to look overdressed, immodest or go against social custom • Nor did he paint the exotic Indian counterparts of Venus • Rather he detached his female figures by providing a different space- an emerging cosmopolitanism.
Why was wearing an upper cloth considered immodest?
• The characteristic expression of fear of moral outrage • The anxiety of dominant classes when faced with structural and cultural change