SEMIOTICS

Assignment – 2
Name – koena arora
Bd/19/1578
This saree belongs to my mother
given to her by my grandmother on
her wedding 23 years back. It is
magenta in color and has golden zari
work all over. It is in pure silk and the
cost is 11k. It was bought from
Chandani chowk Old Delhi the hub of
garments and dress material
All about ZARI work
Zari or Zari Work as it is known, is an intricate art of weaving threads made of fine gold or
silver. These threads are further woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk to create intricate
patterns.

It is believed that the word Zari originated in  a village by

the same name in ancient Persia (Iran of today) where
artisans used the skill of weaving thin threads of gold and
silver onto fine fabrics of silk. The art was brought to India
by Persian migrants between 1700-1100 BC – the period of
Rig Veda. However, zari work flourished during the Mughal
era under the patronage of Emperor Akbar.

Sources of Inspiration
Elegance is what lies in the intricate patterns of Zari work. If
we trace the actual inspiration behing this technique, it
would lead us back to the Medieval times where Zari was
used on silk fabric. The patterns were inspired by ancient
beliefs and rituals but they vary from place to place & are
passed down over the centuries.
ORIGIN
THE MAKING
Zari is produced by twisting a flattened metallic strip made from pure gold, silver or a metallic polyester film around
a yarn made of silk, cotton, polyester etc. These zari threads are processed to increase the brightness of gold plating,
giving it an aesthetic  look.
Zari, which once enjoyed a lot of royal patronage, has slid down due to high costs of
precious metals such as gold and silver. In keeping with the times and in a bid to
appeal to various income groups, Zari has gone through some changes and extensions.
Zari is categorized into 3 types:

1. Real Zari: It is made of pure gold & silver. Due to the high cost of pure gold and
silver, Real Zari is sought after by the very rich and discerning.

2. Imitation Zari: It is made of silver electroplated (thinly) copper wire. Imitation

Zari was used as a replacement for silver. However with increasing prices of copper
too, even Imitation Zari is produced in a rather limited way.

3. Metallic Zari: It is made of slitted polyester metallized film. Metallic Zari is the

work which is in vogue as it weighs quite lightly compared to pure gold and silver or
for that matter copper. It is also affordable and more durable compared to Real Zari
and Imitation Zari.
SILK FABRIC
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is
composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons.

Silk has a smooth, soft texture that is not slippery, unlike many synthetic fibers.
Silk is one of the strongest natural fibers, but it loses up to 20% of its strength when wet. It has a
good moisture regain of 11%. Its elasticity is moderate to poor: if elongated even a small amount, it
remains stretched. It can be weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. It may also be attacked by insects,
especially if left dirty.

Silk is a poor conductor of electricity and thus susceptible to static cling. Silk has a high emissivity for
infrared light, making it feel cool to the touch.

Silk emitted by the silkworm consists of two main proteins, sericin and fibroin, fibroin being the structural
center of the silk, and serecin being the sticky material surrounding it. Fibroin is made up of the amino
acids Gly-Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala and forms beta pleated sheets. Hydrogen bonds form between chains, and
side chains form above and below the plane of the hydrogen bond network.
History
Silk fabric was invented in Ancient China in 3,500 BCE, and played an important role in the culture and
economy for thousands of years. Silks were originally reserved for the Emperors of China. But, finally, silk
spread throughout Asia.
ORIGIN
Some historians say that silk originated in China about 10,000 years ago. In China, however, legend has it that Empress Si Ling Chi of China was the
first one to discover silk more than five thousand years ago. The story goes that while sitting under a mulberry tree in her palace garden, the Empress
was having tea. A cocoon fell into her hot cup of tea from the branches of the mulberry tree. And as she watched, a strong white thread unraveled
itself.
That accidental process of unravelling the silkworm’s cocoon hasn’t changed much in the last thousands of years. Cocoons are still dipped in hot
water to loosen the tightly woven filaments that make up a silkworm’s cocoon. These filaments, or fine threads, are unwound onto a spool. Each
cocoon is made up of a filament between 600 and 900 meters long! Imagine that! You could take just one tiny cocoon and when you unravel its
filament, you could wind it around your house more than eight times. Of course, these filaments are very very thin. Between five and eight of these
super-fine filaments are twisted together to make one silk thread.
By the 14th century BC, the production of silk gradually developed into an industry in China. In fact it became one of the principal elements of the
Chinese economy. Silk was being used for musical instruments, fishing-lines, bowstrings, and even rag paper, the world’s first luxury paper.

It was only as late as the 13th century AD, that Italy began silk production, with the introduction of 2000 skilled silk weavers from
Persia. That’s only about 700 years ago, which isn’t very long considering that silk came to India one thousand years before that.
Eventually, silk production became widespread in Europe, but the widespread production of silk hasn’t dented China’s image as the
Silk Giant. Even today, five thousand years after the first cocoon fell into the Empress’ teacup, China is still the world’s largest
producer of silk.
FLORAL MOTIF
HISTORY OF FLORAL PATTERN
Ancient Egyptians are known as the first florists. They created a designs of very highly stylized wreaths, garlands,
and centerpieces for big events such as banquets, processions, burials, and temple offerings. In addition, flower
arrangements were a luxury only available for the nobility and royals.

Characteristics of Egyptian floral design include order, simplicity, and repetition of a particular pattern. Flowers,
fruits, and foliage were arranged in vessels like spouted vases and baskets. It is quite peculiar, because the
Egyptians rarely showed a flower's stem and every blossom was flanked by additional leaves or buds. 
​
Most often they used roses, acacia, poppies, violets, jasmine, lilies, and narcissus. They made their selections based
on the symbolic meanings that they attributed to each flower, and the lotus blossom, in particular, was
considered sacred. They believed its yellow center and white petals signified Ra, the Sun God, and its use was
ubiquitous.

Florals were incorporated by music idols such as Madonna into stage costumes as floral lace in bustiers
and tutus, and in bright, powerful, abstract forms. Bright florals remained popular through the
late 1980s and beyond.
Motifs offer a new dimension to the visual appeal of a traditional sari, upholding a unique creative expression
within the craft. Plant and floral motifs have held a place of importance in textile designs since ancient times.
They have been painted, printed and woven, drawing inspiration from the richness of the natural environment.

One of the most prized gift to an Indian woman continues to be a richly brocaded handwoven sari, illustrating
the central role of the beautiful drape. Over the past 500 years, silks from Kanchipuram have formed a
fundamental part of the cultural tradition of the South Indian world. The sheer beauty of the fabulous silks of
the South, with jewel toned colours enriched with threads of gold – the Zarigai pattu – has  overwhelmed
people. When we look at Tanjore paintings, temple murals and paintings of the royalties, we understand how
the weavers have adopted and perfected temple art into weaving patterns in textiles. Kanjivarams showcase
the beautiful incorporation of golden thread by way of zari – thin strips of metal wound around a fibre core 
 Significance of Color
Magenta color

Magenta represents universal love at its highest

level. It promotes compassion, kindness and
cooperation and encourages a sense of self
respect and contentment in those who use it.
Gentle and caring in its approach, it generates
acceptance, tolerance, support and patience.
The color magenta is a color of cheerfulness,
happiness, contentment and appreciation for what
you have acquired and achieved. Most people feel
more optimistic when in the company of magenta.
Magenta is the color of the non-conformist, the
free spirit. It pushes you to take responsibility for
creating your own path in life and increases dream
activity while assisting you in turning your
ambitions and desires into reality. Magenta saree is
perfect for summers as well as fall/winter because this color
showers the wearer with energizing summery vibes along with
the intensity of winter nights.
 SEMIOTIC ANALYSIS

The sari features prominently in modern political movements, and is considered a symbol of independence.

The sari dates to a thousand years ago though chroniclers of the sari put its origins to the beginning of the
Indus Valley civilization in 1500 BC.
 Magenta is always the color of femininity and is full of life. Magenta is associated with romance and happiness. Wearing
pink conveys compassion and an open heart. When women wear magenta, they appear amicable and capable of loving
others.
REFRENCES
What Is The Origin Of Silk Fabric? | Pitara Kids' Network

https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/zari-the-ulti
mate-precious-metal-weaving-art/

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk#:~:text=Silk%20is%20a%2
0natural%20protein,insect%20larvae%20to%20form%20cocoon
s.&text=Other%20types%20of%20arthropods%20produce,vario
us%20arachnids%2C%20such%20as%20spiders

http://hdl.handle.net/10603/189648