The Best All- Season Natural Silks Of India

Presented By- Shubhi Sethi

Introduction
India is a land of remarkable diversity and heart-warming vivacity. In its mesmerising milieu of
clothing styles and colourful attires, the silk of India stand out with their soft textures and
aesthetic appeal.
- It’s a natural protein fiber produced by the larvae of a moth, like wool.
- Silk Culture began in China is 2460 BC, and later spread to Korea and Japan, westward to
India, Persia, then to Spain, France and Italy.
- With its shimmering appearance and smooth texture, silk has been enticing Indians for a long
time now. So much so that today India ranks as the largest consumer of this fabric. Other
major producers of silk in the world are China, India, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Japan, Republic of
Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, DPR Korea, Iran. It is a universally accepted luxury fiber.
History of Silk

According to well- established Chinese legend, Empress Hsi Ling Shi, wife of emperor
Huang Ti( also called as Yellow Emperor), was the first person to accidentally discover silk
as a wearable fabric.

One day when the empress was sipping her tea under a mulberry tree, a cocoon fell into
her cup and began to unravel. The empress became so enamored with the shimmering
threads, she discovered their source, the Bombyx Mori Silkworm found in the white
mulberry. The empress soon discovered sericulture, the cultivation of silkworms, and
invented the reel and loom. Thus, began the history of silk.
Production of Silk
The process of producing silk fiber is known as Sericulture.
- -It begins when silk moth lays eggs on specially prepared paper (Oak Leaves)

- -When eggs hatch, caterpillars(larvae) are fed fresh mulberry leaves

- -After about 36 days and 4 motlings, silkworms are roughly 10,000 times heavier than when
hatched, ready to begin spinning a cocoon.

- -Straw frame is placed on a spin and silkworms spins cocoon by moving its head in a figure eight like
motion.

- -Silkworm produces silk in two glands and forces liquid silk through spinnerets( opening in it’s head)
- -In 2-3 days the silkworm spins approximately 1 mile of filament and completely encase itself
- -Silkworm than metamorphosis into a moth which is usually killed before
reaching to that stage
- -Each cocoon yields approximately 1000 yards of usable silk filament, which is
called Raw Silk
- -Several of the same filaments are combined to form a yarn. -Now, operators
have to carefully join filaments so that the diameter of the reeled silk remains
uniform in size.
- Then, in uniformly reeled filament silk, twists are added.
Technological Process of Silk Reeling
 Types of Silk
( Momme- describes the weight of silk; one momme weighs 3.75
grams, higher numbers describe higher fabrics.

1. Wild Silk- In this type of silk the production is not controlled.

Silkworms feed on oak and cherry leaves, which produces much
less uniform fibers
2. Tussar Silk- It is the most common type of wild silk, which is
coarser and darker in appearance. This type of silk cannot be
bleached.
3. Dupion Silk- It’s a result of two silkworms spinning cocoons
together, its irregular in diameter and has a thick and thin
appearance.
4. Oak Tussar Silk- It is a finer variety of tasar generated by the silkworm, Antheraea proylei in
India. The main food source is Oak Plant which is found in abundance in the sub- himalayan belt of
India covering the states of manipur, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Assam, Meghalaya and
Jammu & Kashmir. That’s the reason it is known as Oak Tussar Silk.

5. Eri Silk- It is also called Eri or Errandi silk. This creamy white coloured is less shining than
mulberry and Tasar silk. It is obtained from the cocoons of Philosamia ricini which is a
domesticated silkworm and feeds on castor leaves.

6. Muga Silk- This silk is golden yellow in colour and mainly cultivated in Assam, it is obtained
from semi- domesticated multivoltine (completed multiple life-cycle in a year) silkworm,
Antheraea Assamensis. This silkworm feeds on the Som and Soalu plants and are reared on trees
similar to that of tasar. The Muga Silk, is a high value products which is used in handloom industry
like Sarees and Bedsheets.
4. 5. 6.
7. Mussel Silk- As the name implies, this silk is produced by mussels, yes the same one that
are found on seabeds. It is also known as Sea Silk.

8. Spider Silk- Like Mussel silk, this is also the most difficult silk to be produced as spiders just cannot
be bred like silkworms. Though it is difficult to produce, it’s output is certainly worth the efforts. It is
regarded as most durable type of silk as it is being utilised in the production of telescopes, bulletproof
vests and medicinal purposes.

9. Murshidabad Silk- This type of silk is produced at the ‘Silk Mecca’ of East India.

10. Bangalore Silk- Known for its simplicity and purity of silk, this type of silk is produced in the silk
farms of Banglore. The first silk farm were formed in 1998 by the honorable Jamshedji Nusserwanji Tata,
at a village called, Basavanagudi, in the southern part of Bangalore.

11. Angora Silk- Known for the tender texture, the Angora silk yarn is made up from the fur of meek
‘Angora’ rabbit.
7. 8.

9.

10. 11.
12. Tanchoi Silk- Blend of Silk from the two countries, India and China.

13. Garad Silk- Garad originated in West Bengal and is distinguished by its red border and small paisley
motifs. This fabric is used to weave Garad sarees which is produced by the silk yarns woven close together
which imparts the fine texture of the silk.

14. Jamawar- This silk is an adulterated form of Pashmina Silk which contains a blend of Cotton and Wool.
This is usually used in weaving shawls for the winters.

15. Matka Silk- A rough handloom silk fabric waste from the waste mulberry silk without removing its
gum(sericin) part. It is largely produced in Karnataka and Kashmir.

16. Banarasi / Varanasi Silk- A fine variant of silk evolving from the lands of Benaras or Varanasi, known for
gold and silver work of brocade and zari on the fabric.

17. Mulberry Silk- Purest form of silk extracted from silkworms, usually produced in white or greenish
yellow colour.

18. Raw Silk- This silk is the most natural form of delicate fiber silk, with no twists and is unprocessed which
can easily be woven into different fabrics.
12. 13. 14.

15.

16. 18.

17.
19. Kosa Silk- Comes from Chattisgarh, and is known for its soft texture and dull- brownish look, hence
available in shades of gold pale, dark honey, cream etc. Kosa is one kind of Tussar Silk only.

20. Pat/ Paat Silk- Produced in Eastern India, Pat Silk is known for its distinctive brightness. High quality
and durable nature. It comes in brilliant white or off- white shades.

21. Cot Silk- A well blended combination of cotton and silk, Cot silk is a cheaper priced silk.

22. Kanchipuram- Silk from the village called Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, India is known for its
durability and shine. The rich quality combined with an amazing finish make them last longer.

23. Bhagalpuri- Known as the ‘Queen of all fabrics’, Bhagalpuri silk originates from West Bengal and is
known for its unique and striking resilience and superior quality.

24. Uppada Silk- Also known as Uppada Pattu( Silk in Telugu), the origination of this silk is from Andhra
Pradesh. Usually woven in cotton warp, this one is majorly known by the length and breadth count of
threads.
19. 20. 21.

23. 24.
22.
25. Art Silk- Short form of Artificial Silk, art silk is manufactured by a synthetic fiber called Rayon that
very much resembles silk fiber, however, costs a lot less on the front of manufacture and production.
Properties of Silk
Physical Properties
- Tenacity- The silk fibres has very good strength due to presence of many hydrogen bonds to be
formed in a more regular pattern. When it comes into contact of water( wetting conditions) , it
gets weakened due to hydroxylation of a large numbers of hydrogen bonds present in it by water
molecules. Tenacity of silk fibre ranges between 3 to 6 grams/ denier.
- Elongation- Silk fibre shows very good elongation properties. Silk fibre has an elongation at
break of 20-25% under standard conditions. It's elongation at break gets increased upto 33% at
100% R.H.
- Elasticity- Silk is considered to be more plastic than elastic fibre. If the silk material is stretched
excessively, the silk polymers will slide past each other. This happens due to Beta configuration
present in the silk polymers. A large number of hydrogen bonds get ruptured due to application
of stretching force. Thus the silk behaves like a more plastic nature than elastic.
- Handle- The silk fibres have slightly stiffness in feel due very crystalline polymer. Surface of the
silk feels smooth.
- Resistance to Abrasion- Silk fabric possess good abrasion resistance as well as resistance to pilling.
- Absorbency- It has more absorbency than cotton. The moisture regain of silk is 11%. It absorbs
moisture more quickly than cotton but it gets dried fairly quickly too.
- Specific Gravity- It has more absorbency than cotton. The moisture regain of silk is 11%. It absorbs
moisture more quickly than cotton but it gets dried fairly quickly too.
- Thermal Conductivity- Silk is more sensitive to heat than wool. The silk fibre starts to burn at
175°c ( begins to fuse)
- Electrical Conductivity- The silk is a poor conductor of electricity. it has a tendency to form static
charge, when it is handled during different kinds of processes like weaving etc. This causes
difficulties during processing in dry atmosphere.
- Drape- Silk fibre shows good flexibility. It poses good draping properties.
- Exposure to Sunlight- The silk fibre is more sensitive to light than any other natural fibre. When
this comes for long time exposure to sunlight, it's colour gets spotted partially. Fabric also gets
yellowish due to degradation occurred by sunlight.
Chemical Properties
- - Effect of Water- When silk fibre is kept in boiled water for a short period of time, it does not show any type
of effect of boiled water. Silk fibre tends to loss its strength to some extent when it is kept in boiling water for
long time. This strength loss occurs due to hydrolysis action of water. Silk fibre withstands, however, the effect
of boiling better than wool.
-
- Effect of Acids- Silk fibre reacts with acids more quickly. Silk fibre is soluble in hot and concentrated sulphuric
acid and hydrochloric acid. It gets yellowish when it comes into contact of Nitric acid. It is slightly affected by
diluted organic acids at room temperature. The concentrated organic acids dissolve the silk fibres.
-
- Effect of Alkalis- When silk fibre comes into contact of Alkaline solutions, it begins to swell. It dissolves
completely after some time. It is treated with 16%-18% solution of sodium hydroxide at low temperature to
create crepe effect blended fabric having cotton.
-
- Effect of Oxidising Agent- The fibroin present in the silk doesn't get affected badly by hydrogen peroxide
solution. The weight loss occurs when it is treated in hydrogen peroxide solution. Chlorine solution affects more
badly than Hypochlorite. Low concentration of chlorine solution does damage to fibroin present in the silk.
Uses of Silk
- Bedding- The wonderful thing about high quality silk is that it naturally repels dirt, dust, oils and other grime that
your bedding will accumulate. Silk bedding can thus be washed less often than traditional cotton or synthetic fibers.

- Clothing- Silk is great for summer clothing because of its absorbent nature and how it wicks moisture, and it is also
a staple for winter wear since it has low conductive properties.

- Surgical Suture- Silk surgical suture is indicated for use in general soft tissue approximation and/or ligation,
including use in cardiovascular, ophthalmic, and neurological procedures

- Parachute- Silk was first used by J.P Blanchard in 1785 to make the first parachute without a rigid frame. But, Canvas
was replaced as silk happened to be lighter, stronger, thinner as well as fire resistant and easy to fold and pack.

- Upholstery- Silk upholstery fabric is the most luxurious, and expensive, way to cover a piece of furniture. Silk has a
long history of use in clothing as well as upholstery. It is strong, and so nice to the touch that the phrase "smooth as
silk" describes anything that feels good. It can be dyed with simple colors or elaborate patterns. Designs can be
embroidered onto it.
- - Bike Tyre- A softer, more supple tire system with a high-thread-count silk casing and a latex
inner tube will absorb those road or trail shocks to reduce rolling resistance to enhance
control and reduce rider fatigue. The system is also more durable and safe.
- - Artillery Gun Powder Bag- Discarded silk stockings have helped to set off the charge of
big 16 inch gun. Powder bags made from cloth woven from old silk hose, provided the ideal
non-residue material required for propelling projectiles in heavy guns
- - Wall Covering- Silk used in wallpaper is a unique interior design product for walls and
ceilings. The material gives the surfaces a luxurious look and texture.
Thank You!