• We can see what was involved by attempting to explain the difference

between a steep, narrow beach of coarse material and a wide, gentle beach
of fine sand. In process-form terms, the steep, coarse beach could be
regarded as the product of waves which break only when they actually reach
the beach face. Such waves break steeply downwards, scouring fine material
from the beach and leaving a steep face of coarse material. Conversely, on a
wide gentle beach waves often break far offshore and roll landwards with
white, foaming crests. These waves are disturbing water right down to the
seabed and can thus transport sediment inshore to build up the broad,
gentle beach. At first sight this distinction seems quite convincing, since it
fits our observations of the sorts of waves associated with different types of
beaches
• As waves approach a gentle beach they are slowed down by the
shallow water. The waves thus pack closer together and their
concentrated energy results in a progressive increase in wave height.
Since wave length is decreasing whilst height increases, the waves get
steeper and soon become unstable, running shorewards with the
foaming crests characteristic of surf or "spilling breakers". Similar
waves approaching a steep beach remain in deep water for much
longer. Since there is little tendency for wave length to decrease,
height is also unchanged and the wave remains stable until it actually
reaches the beach face where it forms a "plunging breaker".
• As waves enter shallow water they slow down and increase in height,
producing a concentration of energy which can be used to transport
sediment shorewards. Since sediment is being removed from offshore
and deposited closer to the beach, the overall submarine profile must
be getting steeper - a process-form relationship