Title:An Ethnographic Study Of

Aari Work And Sozni in kupwara

Name:Tehmeena Gulzar
Enrollment No:21096118023
Supervisor:Dr Mohd Ibrahim Wani
 Contents
• Introduction
• Field site
• Objectives
• Research methodology
• Tools and raw materials
• Observation
• Issues and challenges
 Introduction
• This hand embriodery has been practiced in kashmir for many centuries.
• Crewel embriodery is done using a hook or aari.It is locally aari or soznee
kaem,which means needle work.
• The distinctive feature of kashmiri crewel embriodery is the use of woolen yarn.
• Earlier only shawls were embriodered but over the time crewel art has come to
be used for creating other products too like covers,wall hangings,rugs,bags,and
pouches and bedspreads.
• The embriodery is done on thin fabrics like wool,jute,cottonand their various
blends.The hook is used to make rows of solid patterns with chain stitches .
• To begin with the design to be made is selected.The most common design are
the tree of life, maple leaf,hunting scenes and flame shaped and almond shaped
motifs.
• The embriodery work takes the most time depending on the complexity of the
design,it can take a few days to eight to ten weeks to complete a piece.
 Field site
• Trehgam and Dardsun
• Trehgam which is almost 10kms away from
district kupwara .
• Dardsun which is almost 17kms away from
district kupwara.
 Objectives
• The main objectives of this ethnographic study
are.
• To explore the economic condition of aari
workers.
• To study the issues and challenges of aari
workers.
 Research methdology
• Qualitative research
• Involving interviews
• Observation
• Focus group discussion with artisians
• Field diary also maintained
• Proper permission was taken by respondents
 Tools and raw materials
• Some of the commonly used tools includes;
• Needle(aar)
• Frames or hoops
• Traceing materials
• Fabrics and threads
• Beads and sequins
• Embriodery floss
 Observation
• When i went trehgam , I did participant observation with artisans for 2 to 3 hrs.
• I interviewed head of the participants & she said.
• She developed interest in handicraft activities.
• In 2013 when handicraft department kupwara established a crewel centre at her native village trehgam.
• I among other girls registered for the crewel training course against monthly stipend 500rs.
• The training course had duration 1 year and then the course was extended for 2 more years and Increase
salary 200,700/month each traine.
• Then she contacted Rahat Memorial Society an NGO in the same town where she offered a job.
• She engaged as trainer,crewel master and her salary was fixed 2000/month.
• She was happy not because she not able to earn some money but because she became respectable teacher of
the craft.
• She without losing any time started her own venture ,connecting some other girls with the crewel making.
• Since the beginning of the handicraft department no artisans was able to qualify the state award.
• She won the state award in 2018 in crewel craft and got 3 rd position and she has been given the certificate of
excellence with a cash price 20000 in 2021.
• I interact with other girl named shugufta she is a sozni worker ,talked about her work and told how her work
takes more time energy and hardwork but still she doesn’t get the deserving salary she further added that her
head gives embriodery work that takes 3 to 4 months and despite that she gets only 2000rs salary for a product
but when the same product is sold it is sold at whopping price of 15000 to 20000.
 Issues and challenges
• Machine embriodery has severely impacted
handmade embriodery business.
• Customers prefer machine made products over
handmade because they are cheaper and
required less during production.
• The artisans have to sit in one place for many
hours while embriodering.
• Many artisans left this work because of loss of
eyesight over time