ECO-

TEXTILES
FRIENDLY
Rapid Industrialization that has created an Ecological imbalance
Textiles no longer just fulfill the basic need for clothing;
they have rather become a fashion statement.
Rising income
levels across the
globe have led to
Manifold increase
in world’s textile
Production and
Consumption in
recent years.
 This has put a strain on
our already dwindling natural resources

Before After
Textile wet processing uses a large amounts of Water
which when discharged contains a
cocktail of chemicals including unfixed residual dyes &
auxiliaries that cannot be easily treated or biodegraded.
It takes 1 lb of Chemical Fertilizers to conventionally grow
3 lbs of cotton to make a t-shirt and a pair of jeans

Conventionally grown cotton accounts for more than

25% of insecticide and 10% of the pesticides used in the world.
Growing enough Cotton for one T-shirt
requires 257 Gallons of Water
 Scarce and non-renewable Petroleum resources
are utilized in the manufacture of Synthetic fibres
 Burning of Fossil fuels is done to
provide energy for the various processing operations
This increases the Carbon footprints of the textiles
by emitting Greenhouse gases
The use of rayon for clothing is contributing to the
rapid depletion of the world’s Forests
Insufficient Protection of work force from dust & noise during
 Textile Industry is thus
Water, Chemical & Energy Intensive
 The natural resources have only limited ability to
Assimilate pollution due to their Self-purification capacity.
But the increase in the economic & development activities
has broken down this Self-correcting mechanism of nature.
This limitation has lead to problems in disposal and removal
According to Earth Pledge, a NPO committed to
promotion & support for sustainable development
 Common Effluents from the Textile Industry
● Cotton Farming: Pesticide (lindens and hexachloro cyclohexane) & Artificial
Fertilizers
● Cotton / Wool Processing: Preservation agents like pentachlorophenol (PCP)
● Sizing: Stiffeners containing plasticizer such as tributyl / triphenyl phosphate
● Stain Removers or Scouring Assistants: chlorinated carbon.
● Souring & Bleaching: Alkyl phenol ethoxylates (APEOs) such as nonyl phenol
ethoxylates and octyl phenol ethoxylates used as wetting agents and detergents.
● Bleaching: Potassium dichromate, sodium hydroxide, peroxide, sodium hypochlorite.
● Brightening Agents / Optical Brighteners
● Dyeing: Azo dyes, dyes containing traces of heavy metals (Fe, Cu, Pb, etc), glauber’s,
common salt for dyeing of cellulosics, carriers for dyeing of PET and formaldehyde in
dispersing agents & colorant fixatives
● Printing: Solvents used in printing pastes release VOC (volatile organic compounds),
dispersing agents and fixer/binder containing formaldehyde, PVC and phthalates in
plastisol printing pastes.
● Finishing: Easy care finishes using formaldehyde, functional finishing using bromine /
antimony-based chemicals, flame retardant, stain removals containing chlorinated
products.
The toxic non-biodegradable chemicals are difficult to remove
and can enter the food chain.
Water is used in large quantities as a
solvent for processing chemicals and as a
washing & rinsing medium and thus a
large amount of effluent with high BOD
and COD values is generated
Textile Industry in China
accounts for nearly
54% of the world’s total
Textile Production
and discharges over
2.5 billion tons of
Wastewater
every year

The ‘Dirty Laundry’ report published by

Greenpeace International highlighted this issue
Health Problems Related to the Textile Industry
● Various Allerges
● Dermatitis
● Anemia, reduction in RBC and haemoglobin
● Cyanosis (deprivation of the availability of oxygen to the blood)
● Haemoerrhagic disease of various organs (reduction in the platelet count)
● Anilism also known as meth-haemoglobinaemia
● Hepatotoxic effects (jaundice & loss of liver function).
● Nephrotoxic effects (injury to the kidneys)
● Neurosis
● Asthma
● Pulmonary (puemoconiosis) effects
● Lukaemia
● Cancer (tumours of the urinary bladder).
Environmental Protection & Clean
Technologies
is a Universal Concern Today
 In 1987, the Danish Company, NOVOTEX A/S
was the first to introduce an eco-collection, ‘Green Cotton’
for which they were awarded the Environment Prize by the ECC.
Any textile product,
which is
Produced
in eco-friendly
manner and
Processed
under eco-friendly
environment
is known as
Eco-Textiles
Eco-Textiles is also known as
● Sustainable Fashion
● Eco Fashion
● Eco-tech
For a textile to be sustainable, it should:
● Made from a Renewable Resource
● Have a Good Ecological Footprint
● Not Use Any (or Little) Chemicals while Growing &
Processing
 Factors that a sustainable textiles must fulfill:

● Procurement of raw materials does not create a negative

impact on land & water resources (natural fibres), or the
adversely impact the fossil fuels resources (synthetic
fibres).
● Production considerations do not create adverse impact
on sources of water and energy.
● Added chemicals do not affect the health of textile
workers as well as consumers.
● The end-of-life of the textile product is smooth
(biodegradable) and it allows reclamation of the
infrastructure required to sustain further production.
 Definition of Sustainability recommended by the
World Commission on Environment & Development

“ A sustainable textile is one that meets

the needs of the present without compromising the
”
ability of future generation to meet their needs and desires
 HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

Using Renewable Resources that can

1 be replenished easily and in a short
time.
 HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

Following
2 Fair Trade Practices
 HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

Reducing Ecological Footprint or

3 demand on natural resources like land &
water.

Ecological footprint (EF) is a measure for the amount of productive land, sea (water)
and natural resources one needs to produce the resources it consumes and to dispose
of its waste. It is the measure of human demand on the Earth’s ecosystems
 HOW CAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY GO GREEN?

Reducing the Carbon Footprint by

4 reducing/substituting chemicals required to
grow/process the textile material.

A Carbon Footprint is measured in carbon dioxide equivalents and

gives the total amount of greenhouse gases emitted.
HOW CARBON FOOTPRINT CAN BE REDUCED?

1
Going Organic
2
Using Sustainable Processing Methods
a
Chemical Substitution
b
Chemcal Recovery
c
Process Modification
3
Recycling / Upcycling
 1
Reducing Carbon Footprint

GOING ORGANIC
Organic clothing is clothing made
from materials raised or grown in
compliance with organic agricultural
standards - Global Organic Textile
Standard (GOTS)
● Comprises of minimum of 70% organic fibers.
● Fibres made through environmentally & socially responsible
manufacturing.
● All chemical & auxiliaries used meet environmental & toxicological
criteria.
● Dyes are either natural or are environmentally low impact dyes.
● Heavy metals or harmful chemicals have not been used in the dyeing.
● Accessories selected is in accordance with ecological aspects.
● A functional waste water treatment plant is involved in all wet-processing.
● All processes have complied with minimum social criteria & fair trade
practices.
 BENEFITS OF ORGANIC TEXTILES

Grow without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers and so have no

impact on marine and aquatic life
Helps to improve land,
prevents water contamination
and conserves bio-diversity
Biodegrade naturally over
time
Breathable fibers
Added softness and drape

Naturally anti­bacterial
Hypoallergenic
 ORGANIC COTTON

Without Pesticide / Fertilized

No Health Hazard
Highly Non- Non- Fair Trade
Absorbent Irritant Allergic Free for Allergies
Produced as per IVN BEST Guidelines
Durable
 ORGANIC WOOL

More
Durable Absorbent
Elastic
 OTHER
ECO-FRIENDLY
FIBRES
JUTE

High Heat &

Silky
Tensile Flame
Texture
Strength Resistant
FLAX

Absorbent
Cool &
& Release Softer on
Dry to
Water Washing
Touch
Quickly
 HEMP

Durable
Hypo-
& UV- Absorbent
Allegic
resitant
 RAMIE

Harvested up to 6 Times in a Year

Without the use of Pesticides or
Herbicides

8 times Resistant
Wrinkle Stronger to
Resistant than Microbial
Cotton Attack
 BAMBOO

Silky Feel Resistant

Wicks
& Good to
Moisture
Drape Microbes
 NETTLE

Obtained from Brennessel Plant

Longest High Hollow -

Bast Tensile Natural
Fibre Strength Insulation
 PINEAPPLE

Silky & High Low

High Tensile Elongatio
Luster Strength n
 BANANA

High
Light
Absorbent Tensile
Weight
Strength
 SAMATOA/LOTUS

Wrinkle Free
Soft &
Water Proof & Stain
Light
Resistant
 COCONA

Resistant
Light
Stretchable to UV--
Weight
Light
 CORN

Softness
Flame
& Good Resilience
Retardant
Drape
 SOY SILK

Good
Soft & Good Option for
Silky Drape Underwear
& Bras
 TENCEL / LYOCELL

Absorbent High
Shrink
& Tensile
Resistant
Breathable Strength
ECO-FRIENDLY
DYES
BIODEGRADABLE LOW-IMPACT
DYES DYES

ECO-
FRENDLY
DYES
AZO FREE METAL FREE
DYES DYES
LOW IMPACT DYES
 NATURAL DYES?
Natural dyes are colorants or pigments that are obtained from plant,
animal or mineral sources with or without any chemical treatments

Plant Sources Animal Sources Mineral Sources

 Roots & Barks

AL ROOTS MADDER ROOTS TURMERIC

FUSTIC CATECHU LOGWOOD

 Leaves

INDIGO BIRCH EUCALYPTUS

HENNA WOAD CARROT TOPS

 Flowers
TANSY

CORAL JASMINE

GOLDEN RODS

TESU

GULMOHAR

DAHLIA HIBISCUS FRENCH MARIGOLD

 Fruits and Berries

MYROBOLAN ONION POMEGRANATE

ANNATTO ALMOND WALNUT

Animal Origin

TYRIAN PURPLE
 Animal Origin

KERMES COCHINEAL LAC

Animal Origin

LITCHENS

WEILD & MUSHROOMS

 MINERAL Origin

Orpimat Red Oxide Malachite Cinnabar Carbon Black

MINERAL Origin
Herbal powder, vegetable powder, parsley vegetable powder, rosemary vegetable
powder, brown mica oxide powder, yellow mica oxide powder
 HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES
 In Egypt, mummies have been found wrapped in madder dyed cloth.
 HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES
 It is well known that the green eye-shadow was also used by the Egyptian
women and it came from lead, oxidized copper, ochre, ash, malachite,
and chrysocolla (a blue-green copper ore).
 HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES
 It is well known that Egyptian women lined their eyes and eyebrows with Khol
that is a dark-colored powder made of crushed antimony,
burnt almonds, lead or any combination thereof

Woman would apply khol, a black dye kept in a jar or pot, to line
her eyes and eyebrows, using an "brush" or "pencil" made of a
reed
 HISTORY OF NATURAL DYES
 It is well known that the lipstick used by Cleopatra, the famous Egyptian
queen came from the bixa tree.
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Obtained from Agro Renewable Resources are biodegradable.
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by
reducing consumption of fossil fuel (petroleum) based synthetic dyes.

One carbon credit = one metric tonn of CO2

/ CO2 equivalent gases

Carbon Credit is a permit that allows the

holder to emit one ton of carbon dioxide.
Credits are awarded to countries or
groups that have reduced their green
house gases below their emission quota.
Carbon credits can be traded in the
international market at their current
market price.

Example -, if an environmentalist group plants enough trees to reduce emissions by

one ton, the group will be awarded a credit. If a steel producer has an emissions
quota of 10 tons, but is expecting to produce 11 tons, it could purchase this carbon
credit from the environmental group.
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Some of its constituents are anti-allergens and safe for body contact
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Bleed but do not stain other fabrics, turmeric being an exception
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Natural Dyes from Agricultural Waste

Since only the leaves of the tobacco

Waste rests of eucalyptus, aguaribay trees, plants are harvested, stalks and other
sunflower seed shells, parsley, olive, laurel, agricultural waste are transformed into
and lemon trees vibrant, non-toxic dye
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
Does not pollute as the synthetic dyes

The Jian River flows red after being polluted

with dye from an illegal workshop
 ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL DYES
The dye waste may become an ideal fertilizer for agricultural fields

Waste from
barks /
leafs used
in dyeing in
Bali

The waste
water pH it’s
good for
water lily
Indigo waste used to irrigate the tomatoes plantation
ECO-FRIENDLY
FABRICS
It is based on the Ayurvedic Principles of Medicine which believes that
regular contact with cloth made from yarns
infused with extracts of organic herbs and medicinal plants
will cure metabolic disorders & promote healthy living

The Sanskrit word, ‘ayur’ means life and ‘vastra’ means cloth or dress.
These herbal clothing
● Helps to restore balance within the body's systems
● Strengthens the immune system
● Helps in reducing the spread of diseases
● Exhibits anti-microbial & anti-bacterial properties
These herbal textiles are often used in making
● Garments used close to the skin
● Undergarments
● Towels
● Sleepwear
● Bed Coverings
● Mattresses
● Coir Mats
● Door Mats
● Carpets
The most effective time to wear Ayurvedic clothing is when
the body is at rest – Sleep & Relaxation / Meditation
Ayurvastra are made from fibres like certified organic cotton, natural
cotton, silk wool, coir, linen, jute, hemp, bamboo and their blends.
More than 200 herbs extracts can
be mixed in the dye-bath while dyeing
fabrics; hence they play a dual role in
providing magical healing
quality and imparting soothing
colours
● Diabetes can be controlled by a combination of the herbal dye
● Saffron is believed to control Heart Diseases
● Fenugreek is said to control Cholesterol
● Fabrics dyed with curry leaves extract are beneficial in curing Arthritis
● Sandalwood, turmeric, aloevera, onion, chirayata & neem dyed fabrics can cure Skin
Diseases
● Brazil wood, henna and Indian mulberry can be used as Blood Purifier
● Indian madder helps in Removing Blood Impurities
● Haritaki and indigo can be used for their Antiseptic Properties
● Amla can be used for its Anti-fungal, Anti-bacterial & Anti-septic Properties
● Chitosan, which show Antimicrobial Properties
● Castor oil helps in Maintaining Body Temperature