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Early Silk Trade and The Establishment of The Silk Roads 114BCE
Coconification
= the worms begin to spin their cocoons and use their saliva to solidify them +
the cocoons are finally picked and sorted according to their quality
Silk harvesting
= the cocoons are stripped of their worms and then spun (usually manually
using silk combs, silk reels or husking machines) to obtain silk thread
Spinning
= the threads are grouped together to create thicker threads. This stage can be
carried out by hand or with a machine
Weaving
= combining yarns to make fabric (manually or mechanically) to produce
garments, accessories or decorations
Finishing
https://textilelearner.net/silk-fiber-types-properties/
= the parts are then checked and dyed if necessary
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 12
All of these silk varieties have unique characteristics, and each is used for specific applications depending on their
properties.
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 13
China, India and Vietnam – The biggest producers in the World and their
characteristics
• produced in 50 countries worldwide, including 14 in Silk production (in tonnes)
Asia 140000
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European level it is the most important. In 2019, it produced 80% of
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European silk, i.e. 12 tonnes (in 2010). This industry has only a small
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impact on Italy's GDP, equivalent to USD 1.99 trillion. The fact that
the country has adapted to its needs is a clear indication of its level of in 2000 in 2010 in 2019
development, with a Human Development Index of 0.892. Source: Atlasocio
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 14
China, India and Vietnam – The biggest producers in the World and their
characteristics
India – the second producer
• With a production of around 30,000 tons/year, India is the
second producer in the world. India was also closely linked to
the silk trade. Silk has great cultural and traditional significance,
but it is also a vital component of India's economy. Silk has
created many jobs and generated large profits for the country,
enabling it to achieve a GDP of €3,213,281 million (in 2022) and a
human development index of 0.645 (which can be considered a
medium to high level).
• Silk prices can change for a number of reasons: weather conditions that
affect worm growth and silk quality, fluctuations in raw materials and
demand (linked to trends), technological developments, international
events and pandemics.
• Those impacts can be measured with the climate and political risk
indice
• This index is used to assess the impact of climate and political risks in different
countries (a short- and medium- to long-term view)
• China = 1 & 2, India = 2 & 3, Vietnam = 2 & 4, Thailand = 2 & 3 shows that
these countries are equally affected by climate and political risks
• Example of a real case and their impact: From low in green to very high in burgundy
• The COVID-19 pandemic
• 53.06% of companies expected their operating income to fall by at least 10%
by 2020 26.53% = a fall of between 10 and 30% & 26.53% = a fall of more
than 30%
• The causes = falling demand, closure of factories and supply chains,
changing consumer preferences and fluctuating production costs
Source: Credendo
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 17
2 – Transport
Silk is mainly produced in Asia, but consumed all over the world, so it needs to be transported. All these
journeys produce huge amounts of CO2.
The silk trade, like other industries, is currently undergoing a phase of change and is trying to
reduce its impact on the planet. To achieve this, a number of changes have been implemented,
such as eco-friendly dyes, new regulations, sustainable sericulture, etc. These changes have led
to the development of « organic » silk. These changes open up many possibilities for the future.
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 19
Appendix
• Section 1:
• Books read/referenced:
• Reference list
• Barisitz, S. (2017). Central Asia and the Silk Road. Springer.
• Findlay, R. and O’rourke, K.H. (2007). Power and plenty : trade, war, and the world economy in the second millennium. Princeton, N.J. ; Woodstock:
Princeton University Press.
• Foltz, R. (2010). Religions of the Silk Road : overland trade and cultural exchange from antiquity to the fifteenth century. Basingstoke: Macmillan.
• Liu, X. (2010). The Silk Road in world history. Oxford ; New York: Oxford University Press.
• Ma, D. (2017). Textiles in the Pacific, 1500–1900. Routledge.
• Rafe de Crespigny (2006). A Biographical Dictionary of Later Han to the Three Kingdoms (23-220 AD). BRILL.
• Robert Sabatino Lopez (2005). The commercial revolution of the Middle Ages : 950-1350. Cambridge: Cambridge Univ. Pess.
• Rossabi, M. (2014). 7. The ‘Decline’ of the Central Asian Caravan Trade. BRILL eBooks, Brill, pp.201–220. doi:https://doi.org/10.1163/9789004285293_009.
• Thomas Jefferson Barfield (1989). The Perilous Frontier. Blackwell.
• Williams, T. (2014). The Silk Roads: an ICOMOS Thematic Study. [online] Available at:
https://www.icomos.org/images/mediatheque/ICOMOS_WHThematicStudy_SilkRoads_final_lv_201406.pdf.
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 22
Appendix
• Section 2:
• Articles read/referenced:
• Astoul, E. (2023). Silk: How Ethical And Sustainable Is It? (& Better Alternatives To Choose Instead). [online] Sustainably Chic. Available at: https://www.sustainably-chic.com/blog/what-is-silk.
• GOOD, I.L., KENOYER, J.M. and MEADOW, R.H. (2009). NEW EVIDENCE FOR EARLY SILK IN THE INDUS CIVILIZATION. Archaeometry, 51(3), pp.457–466. doi:https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1475-4754.2008.00454.x.
• Hu, X., Vasanthavada, K., Kohler, K., McNary, S., Moore, A.M.F. and Vierra, C.A. (2006). Molecular mechanisms of spider silk. Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, [online] 63(17), pp.1986–1999. doi:https://doi.org/10.1007/s00018-006-6090-y.
• Kluge, J.A., Rabotyagova, O., Leisk, G.G. and Kaplan, D.L. (2008). Spider silks and their applications. Trends in Biotechnology, [online] 26(5), pp.244–251. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tibtech.2008.02.006.
• Lee-Whitman, L. (1982). The Silk Trade: Chinese Silks and the British East India Company. Winterthur Portfolio, [online] 17(1), pp.21–41. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/1180762.
• Levi, S. (1999). India, Russia and the Eighteenth-Century Transformation of the Central Asian Caravan Trade. Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient, [online] 42(4), pp.519–548. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/3632605 [Accessed 27
Oct. 2023].
• Ma, D. (1996). The Modern Silk Road: The Global Raw-Silk Market, 1850-1930. The Journal of Economic History, [online] 56(2), pp.330–355. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/2123969.
• Scheidel, W. (2005). REAL SLAVE PRICES AND THE RELATIVE COST OF SLAVE LABOR IN THE GRECO-ROMAN WORLD. Ancient Society, [online] 35, pp.1–17. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/44079857.pdf.
• Scheidel, W. (2008). The Monetary Systems of the Han and Roman Empires. SSRN Electronic Journal. doi:https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.1096440.
• Scheidel, W. (2013). Slavery and Forced Labor in Early China and the Roman World. SSRN Electronic Journal. doi:https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.2242322.
• trendeconomy.com. (2023). Silk | Imports and Exports | 2022. [online] Available at: https://trendeconomy.com/data/commodity_h2/50.
• Vainker, S. and Talbot, L. (2005). Review of Chinese Silk: A Cultural History. Studies in the Decorative Arts, [online] 12(2), pp.143–147. Available at: https://www.jstor.org/stable/40663140 [Accessed 27 Oct. 2023].
• Wu, K.J. (2020). Spider Silk Is Stronger Than Steel. It Also Assembles Itself. The New York Times. [online] 4 Nov. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/11/04/science/spider-silk-web-self-assembly.html#:~:text=Pound%20for%20pound%2C%20spider
%20silk.
• www.databridgemarketresearch.com. (2021). Synthetic Spider Silk Market – Global Industry Trends and Forecast to 2028 | Data Bridge Market Research. [online] Available at: https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-synthetic-spider-silk-market.
• www.databridgemarketresearch.com. (2023). Silk Market Size, Share, Price, Analysis, Trends, & Forecast by 2028. [online] Available at: https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-silk-market.
• Zheng, X. and Jia, L. (2017). An Empirical Study on the Economic Effect of Financial Cooperation among Countries of the ‘Silk Road Economic Belt’. Engineering Economics, 28(5). doi:https://doi.org/10.5755/j01.ee.28.5.19189.
• Classement des États du monde par production de soie (grège). (s. d.). Atlasocio.com. https://atlasocio.com/classements/economie/agriculture/classement-etats-par-production-soie-grege-monde.php#:~:text=Les%20principaux%20%C3%89tats%20producteurs
%20de,Sud%2C%20la%20Turquie%20et%20Madagascar.
• Kiron, M. I. (2021, 29 avril). Silk fiber : types, properties, manufacturing process and uses. Textile Learner. https://textilelearner.net/silk-fiber-types-properties/#google_vignette
• Silk Yarn Market Insights. (s. d.). https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/silk-yarn-market
•
Silk | Marie Boillat Vanden Stock & Aki Majola | Michaelmas Term 2023 23
Appendix
• Section 3
• Other relevant articles:
• Cizakca, M. (1980). Price History and the Bursa Silk Industry: A Study in Ottoman Industrial Decline, 1550-1650. The Journal of Economic History,
• McEvedy, C. (1988). The Bubonic Plague. Scientific American, [online] 258(2), pp.118–123. Available at:
https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/24988987.pdf.
• Wilfred (2018). The Periplus of the Erythræan Sea; Travel and Trade in the Indian Ocean. Franklin Classics.
• www.historyofinformation.com. (n.d.). Defeat at Battle of the Talas River Marks the End of Tang Westward Historical Expansion : History of