Dyeing of New

Natural Fibers
 Agenda

• Bamboo fiber
• PLA fiber
• Soya fiber
• Casein protein fiber
 Global production of fibers (2006)

Total 63.5 m (+ 3.6%)

PET 27.8 m (+ 5.1%)

6.4 m
PP (+ 0%)
3.9 m
Nylon (+ 0.8%)
2.5 m
Acrylic (- 6%)

Regen. 2.9 m
(+ 9.8%)
Cellulose

Cotton 25.1 m (+ 1.7%)

1.2 m
Wool (- 1.9%)
Bamboo fiber
 Production process and characteristics

Wet
Bamboo Alkali Scouring Fiber
spinning
Process

Character
-istics
Bio
Degra.
Case study

China
•Zhuzhou Cedar

Bamboo
Beddings
Bamboo Cotton
Kurabo
Toray

Core : Wool
Nano Bamboo Charcoal Yarn

Staple fiber Master batch

Nano Bamboo Charcoal Yarn Nano Bamboo Charcoal Yarn
(Nylon based, 70d/24f) (PET based, 70d/72f)
 Bamboo Charcoal filament Bamboo Charcoal filament
(75d/72f, Thermal insulation) (75d/50f, 중공섬유
Thermal insulation)
Bamboo Charcoal staple
(Thermal insulation)
 Bamboo Charcoal Fabric
(Zhu Tech, 280g/y,
Bamboo char. 70%/cotton 30%)
 Bamboo Charcoal Fabric
(Zhu Tech, 250g/y,
Bamboo char. 33%/CVC 67%)

CVC : Blended yarn

(Bamboo char.+cotton)
 Bamboo Charcoal Fabric
(Zhu Tech, 350g/y,
Bamboo char. 30%/PET 70%)
 Towel

Pad
Maestro (100% Bamboo)

Bamboo/Wool
 PLA fiber
(Polylactic acid)
PLA 섬유 특성 Characteristics

CH2 CH2
O O

OH OH
+ HO C 2 CO2H H OH2CH2CO C C OH
n
Ethylene glycol Terephthalic acid
PET

O
H O
OH
O C C O
CH3 n
OH
lactic acid PLA

PLA PET
density 1.25 1.39
m. p. 175℃ 260℃
R. I. 1.4 1.54
Fountain Set Group

100% PLA
PLA fiber

PLA fiber
Embossing PLA
Embossing PLA Jacket
(Versache)
PLA 44%/cotton 56%
290g/m2
Far Eastern

PLA 69%/cotton 31%

PLA 38%/wool 62%
 PLA for Car interiors
Mazda Motor (with Teijin Fibers)
Premacy Hydrogen RE Hybrid

a Stereocomplex PLA was formed by using two optical isomers

to enhance the heat resistance,
 Dyeing Shades

Dye fabric L* a* b* C* H*
Yellow 42 Yellow 86 Orange 30 PET 81.9 6.5 80.2 80.5 85.3
Yellow 42
PLA 85.8 -5.1 82.8 83.0 93.5
PLA
Yellow 86 PET 74.6 23.8 71.0 74.9 71.4
PLA 79.4 13.6 87.6 88.6 81.2

Orange 30 PET 48.4 42.6 47.2 63.6 48.0

PLA 53.8 49.1 62.4 79.4 51.8
PET
+b

80% 80%
76%

-a +a

PET
-b PLA
 Red 50 Red 54 Dye fabric L* a* b* C* H*
PET 39.1 51.1 30.8 59.7 31.1
PLA Red 50
PLA 45.1 57.9 48.0 75.2 39.7
PET 46.3 53.6 43.8 69.2 39.3
Red 54
PLA 48.5 58.7 54.6 75.2 43.0
PET
Blue 56 PET 32.4 6.2 -40.9 41.4 278.6
88% PLA 32.5 19.0 -50.1 53.6 290.8
70% PET 21.6 11.1 -29.4 31.4 290.7
Blue 284
PLA 23.8 17.5 -40.0 43.6 293.6

Blue 374 PET 28.0 -6.3 -21.9 22.8 254.0

PLA 21.3 2.5 -21.2 21.4 276.7
Blue 56 Blue 284 Blue 374
+b
PLA

PET -a +a

81% 82%
64% PET
PLA
-b
 Wash Fastness
acetate nylon acetate nylon
staining staining staining staining
Yellow 42 Red 54
PET PET

PLA PLA

Yellow 86 Blue 56
PET PET

PLA PLA

Orange Blue 284

30
PET
PET PET

PLA PLA

Red 50 Blue 374

PET PET

PLA PLA
PLA blends

Key
Key issue
issue

Dyeing of PLA/PET : Reducibility

PLA
blends PLA/Cotton : 2-Stage dyeing process

PLA/Nylon : Wet fastness

 PLA / PET blend

Yellow 42 Yellow 86 Orange 30 Red 50

PLA

PET

ΔE=1.45 ΔE=6.21 ΔE=6.20 ΔE=6.58

Red 54 Blue 56 Blue 374

PLA

PET

ΔE=8.38 ΔE=14.00 ΔE=9.61

 PLA/Cotton blend
Cold-type
Cold-type

PLA

Cotton

1-stage : Y LS-R 1-stage : Y LS-R 1-stage : R LS-B 1-stage : R LS-B 1-stage : N LS-G 1-stage : N LS-G
2-stage : Y 42 2-stage : Y 86 2-stage : R 54 2-stage : R 74 2-stage : B 56 2-stage : B 374

Hot-type
Hot-type

PLA

Cotton

1-stage : Y 42 1-stage : Y 86 1-stage : R 54 1-stage : R 74 1-stage : B 56 1-stage : B 374

2-stage : Y HE4G 2-stage : Y HE4G 2-stage : R HE3B 2-stage : R HE3B 2-stage : B HERD 2-stage : B HERD
 PLA/Nylon blend

PLA

Nylon

1-stage : 1-stage : 1-stage : 1-stage : 1-stage : 1-stage :

Y C3GL Y C3GL R C2B R C2B B C4RNL B C4RNL
2-stage : Y 42 2-stage : Y 86 2-stage : R 54 2-stage : R 74 2-stage : B 56 2-stage : B 374
 Soya fiber
(Soybean fiber)
 Characteristics
Case study

Characteristics
Wellbeing Baby
Anti-bacterial
Anti-allergy Wool blend
Anti-aging (Soy Plus)
UV cut
Inner wears

Soya/Cotton
(LG fashion)
Chinese products
 Desizing & bleaching

Raw material Bleached fiber

Enzyme desizing Oxidative bleaching

•Amylase •Scouring agent
•Glauber’ salt •stabilizer
Process
•Wetting agent •Na2CO3
•60℃, 60min •H2O2
•90℃, 60min
 Dyes

C.I. No. Reactive group

Yellow 105 MCT(monochlorotriazine)
Acid dyes Reactive dyes
Red 120 N
Cl
D NH N
•Cibacron Brill. Blue LS-G Blue160 N
•Dorasyn Brill. Blue XLRO N-R
(MFT + MFT) R'

Yellow125 DFCP(difluorochloropyrimidine)
•ERIOFAST Blue R
•Cibacron Brill. Blue FN-G Red 147
D NH
N F

(MFT + VS) Blue209 N

•Doractive Blue W3R Cl
F
•Drimarene Blue HF-RL
•Doracid Cyanine 6B MFT(monofluorotriazine)
(DFP + VS)
Orange 91 N F

Blue 182 D NH N
N
NHR

Yellow 17
VS(vinyl sulfone)
Red 21
Blue 19 D SO2CH2CH2OSO3H

Exhaustion & Fixation yield

 100%
100%
90%
Exhaustion
90%
80%
80%
70%
70%

exhaustion(%)
60%

exhaustion(%)
Exhaustion Fixation 60%
50%
Dye (%) (%)
50%
40%
40%
30%
30%
20%
ERIOFAST Blue R (1) 41.5 26.0 20%
10%
10%
Acid Dorasyn Brill. Blue XLRO (2) 40.2 13.3 0%
0% ERIOFAST Dorasyn Doractive Doracid Cibacron Drimaren Cibacron

dye Doractive Blue W3R (3) 19.3 6.6

ERIOFAST
Blue R
Blue R
Dorasyn
Br.Blue
Br.Blue
XLRO
Doractive Doracid Cibacron Drimaren Cibacron
Blue W3R Cyanine 6B Br.blue FN- Blue HF-RL Br.blue LS-
Blue W3R Cyanine 6B Br.blue FN- Blue HF-RL Br.blue LS-
G G
Doracid Cyanine 6B (4) 55.6 33.3 XLRO G G

Cibacron Brill. Blue FN-G (5) 80.2 90.7 100%

Reactive 100%
90% Fixation
Cibacron Brill. Blue LS-G (6) 71.7 81.2 90%
80%
dye 80%
70%
Drimarene Blue HF-RL (7) 94.9 77.8 70%

fixation(%)
60%

fixation(%)
60%
50%
50%
40%
40%
30%
30%
20%
20%
10%
10%
0%
0% ERIOFAST Dorasyn Doractive Doracid Cibacron Drimaren Cibacron

1 2 3 4 5 6 7
ERIOFAST
Blue R Dorasyn Blue
Br.Blue Doractive Doracid Br.blue
W3R Cyanine Cibacron Blue
Drimaren
HF- Cibacron
Br.blue
Blue R Br.Blue
XLRO Blue W3R Cyanine
6B Br.blue
FN-G Blue
RL HF- LS-G
Br.blue
XLRO 6B FN-G RL LS-G

before
soaping

after
Soaping
 Dye Temp Reactive
. group
Reactive Yellow 105
Reactive Red 120
Dyeing profile
80℃ MCT
Reactive Blue 160
Reactive Yellow 125
Reactive Red 147 60℃ DFCP dyeing
Reactive Blue 209
Reactive Yellow 143 60℃ MFT 80℃×60min
Reactive Blue 182
Reactive Yellow 17
soaping
Reactive Red 21 60℃×60min 2℃/
60℃ VS 1℃/min
Reactive Blue 19 min
Cibacron Orange LS-BR
45~50℃×10mi
n
Cibacron Red LS-6G 80℃ VS +
DFCP 30℃
Cibacron Blue LS-3R
wash
Synozol G/Yel HF-2GR
Synozol Red HF-6BN 60℃ VS + MCT • Dye : × % (o.w.f.)
soaping agent
Synozol Blue K-R
• Na2SO4 50g/l 0.2g/l
Cibacron Yellow FN-2R
Cibacron Red FN-R 60℃ VS + MFT • soda ash 5g/l
Cibacron Blue FN-R
• Liquor ratio = 10:1
Drimarene Yellow HF-R MFT +
Drimarene Red HF-G 60℃ MFT
Drimarene Blue HF-RL
 Exhaustion (% E)

V MC Fixation (% F) :

100%
S 100%
T

80% 80%

60% 60%

40% 40%

20% 20%

0% 0%
C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive
Yellow 17 Red 21 Blue 19 Yellow 105 Red 120 Blue 160

DFCP MFT
100% 100%

80% 80%

60% 60%

40% 40%

20% 20%

0% 0%
C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive C.I. Reactive
Yellow 125 Red 147 Blue 209 Yellow 143 Blue 182
 Wash fastmess
cotton cotton nylon wool

VS

Reactive Yellow 17 Reactive Red 21 Reactive Blue 19

MC
T
Reactive Yellow Reactive Red 120 Reactive Blue 160
105

DFCP

Reactive Yellow 125 Reactive Red 147 Reactive Blue 209

MFT

Reactive Yellow 143 Reactive Blue 182

 Bifunctional reactive dyes
Exhaustion Fixation 1 2 3 4 5 6
Dye (%) (%)

Synozol G/Yel HF-2GR (1) 90.2 88.0 before

Synozol Red HF-6BN (2) 86.6 89.4 Soaping
Synozol Blue K-R (3) 99.3 97.9

Cibacron Brill. Blue FN-G (4) 80.2 90.7 after

Cibacron Brill. Blue LS-G (5) 71.7 81.2 Soaping
Drimarene Blue HF-RL (6) 94.9 77.8

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%

0%
Synozol Synozol Synozol Cibacron Cibacron Drimarene
G/Yel HF-2GR Red HF- Blue K- Brill. Blue Brill.
6BN R FN-G Blue LS-G Blue HF-RL
Exhaustion (% E)
Fixation (% F) :
 Dyeing shades

G/Yel HF-2GR Red HF-6BN Blue K-R

Synozol
(VS + MCT)

Yellow FN-2R Red FN-R Blue FN-R

Cibacron FN
(VS + MFT)

Yellow HF-R Red HF-G Blue HF-RL

Drimarene HF
(MFT + MFT)

Orange LS-BR Red LS-6G Blue LS-3R

Cibacron LS
(VS + DFCP)
Casein Protein Fiber
 Characteristics

Contains over 10 kinds of amino acids

(up to 97% of fiber)

Skin friendly

UV protection and anti-odor & bacterial

Cashmere-like touch
Process of yarn production
Ca/Silk/Wool
 Pretreatment

H 2O2 Na2CO3 Desizing Stabilizer Scouring Result

agent agent
(g/l)
A 1 2 △
B 2 ×
C 3 ×
D 8 3 3 △
A B C D
 Acid dyes Wool reactive dyes
Type Dye name Type Dye name

Yellow RNL micro

Yellow 4G
Levelling Red FRL micro
Wool reactive Red 6G
Blue BRL micro (I) Blue 3G
Yellow C3GL
G/Y F-3RL
Milling Red C2B
Wool reactive Brill Red F-B
Blue C4RNL (II) Blue F-GRL
Metal complex Yellow 2R
Red 2B
Blue 2R

Nylon Yellow R
reactive Red 2B
Blue 3R
 Dyeing conditions

• temp : 95⁰C
• time : 40min
• pH : 3 107.5% 239% 201.8%

Amino acids in casein fiber

Name Content Structure

Glutamic acid 21.5% HO2CCH2CH2CH CO2H

NH2

Proline 10.7%
N CO2H

Leucine 9.0% H3C CHCH2CH CO2H

CH3 NH2
 Effect of pH

300

Levelling
Milling
250
Metal complex
Nylon 반응성
울 반응성 (I)
200 울 반응성 (II)

150
K/S

100

50

0
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
pH
Buffer solution
 % Exhaustion
100
90
80
70
60
Y
50 R
40 B
30
20
10
0
Levelling Milling Metal Nylon Wool reactive Wool reactive
complex reactive (I) (II)
 Thank you for
your attention
&
Any Questions ?