Coastal processes

Learning objectives:

To understand how the coast is shaped by a number of

physical processes.
 Waves
What are the differences between constructive and destructive
waves?
Types of Waves (Time for Geography, 2024)

Sort the cards into two piles, one showing the characteristics of
constructive waves and one for destructive waves.
 Wave characteristics
Now you have completed the card sort, add the information into your
table to show the differences between the two different types of
wave.

Constructive waves Destructive waves

Draw you own version of these diagrams on your table.

Long Strong swash

Shallow
wavelength gradient waves

Weak backwash
Beach built up by
deposition of material
brought up in swash
Constructive wave

Tall waves with short

wavelength

Steep gradient waves Weak

swash
Strong backwash
(beach eroded)

Destructive wave
 Weathering
• Weathering is the break down of rock in situ (in place)
• This weakens the rock structure by either chemical, biological or
mechanical means

Chemical weathering: Biological weathering: Mechanical (physical)

where chemicals in where living things, like weathering:
the sea/rain water burrowing animals or where a physical
alter the structure of roots of plants weaken breakdown of rocks
the rock. the structure of the rock. occurs, due to the
process of freeze thaw.
 Mass movement
Once weakened by weathering, rocks from the coastline can collapse under
the influence of gravity. This means that there is more material delivered to
the beaches and the sea which can then be eroded.
This is called mass movement and can happen in a number of ways: sliding,
slumping or rock falls.

A slow form of downhill A large area of land When fragments of rock

soil movement. Gravity moving down a slope. are weathered or
pulls water and the soil Usually when soil has eroded and fall from the
downhill which creates a become saturated and cliff as whole parts.
rippled effect. rotation occurs along a
failure plane.
 Coastal erosion
Watch the following video on coastal erosion and answer the question
below:
What is coastal erosion? (Environment Agency TV, 2009)

What factors affect erosion rates?

Now watch this video about the four different types of erosion:

The four coastal processes of erosion (Time for Geography, 2016)

Can you match the type of erosion with its definition?

•Hydraulic power
•Abrasion
•Attrition
•Solution
Coastal transportation – longshore drift
Watch the following video clip which shows how longshore drift works:

Longshore Drift (P Leybourne, 2007)

Land Sediment movement

Direction of
Swash the longshore
Shoreline drift

Backwash

Sea Direction of the prevailing wind

Can you arrange the statements on your sheet into the correct order?
 Coastal transportation
Suspension - fine light materials, Solution - minerals are
sand and silt, are carried along in dissolved in the sea
the flow of the water which can water and carried
make the sea water look cloudy. along in solution.

Solution

Suspension

Traction Saltation

Sea bed/beach
Traction - large stones and Saltation - small
boulders are rolled along by waves. pebbles and stones
Mainly when there are high energy are bounced along the
levels, like a coastal storm. sea bed by the waves.
 Coastal deposition

When the waves do not have

adequate energy, they drop
the sand, pebbles and rocks
they are carrying. This is
called deposition.

Deposition happens when the swash is stronger than the backwash (so
when there are constructive waves). This mainly occurs when:
•there is little wind, or waves enter a sheltered area (bay)
•there is a small fetch
•waves enter shallow water and reduce in power
•there is a great supply of eroded material to transport.