000 marieclaire.co.

za
travel
C|||b Hl|OU!
=ifdkfgu|rovr||
|s t|e erfect escoe,
/ore|e Kuro|o (|eft) or1
/o1Wo Kuro|oVo|ert|re
stro|||r t|rou| O|1
!oWr, t|e |or|our,
W|ere ]ou r||t sot
be]orc or1 Jo]/
|o|r orto
o r|vote |oot.
HELLO DUBROVNIK
!|e |est Wo] to orr|ve |r Croot|o |s to |or1 |r u|rovr||, t|e courtr]'s sout|errrost
o|rt t|ot juts out |rto t|e A1r|ot|c Seo. lt's ruc| |||e orr|v|r |r Sout| Afr|co or1
|e|r reete1 |] t|e sre|| of t|e seo ot Coe !oWr lrterrot|oro|. but |r cortrost,
u|rovr|| o|rort |s t|r] or1 t|e stee 1r|ve to t|e c|t] certre |s rot||r s|ort
of |reot|to||r. !|e lSr|rute 1escert |ves ]ou o ||rse of W|ot t|e c|t] |os
to offer. o ort|or of t|e l 8|r coost||re, |or1ere1 |] ||tter|r ||ue seo t|ot's
1otte1 W|t| s||rrer|r ]oc|ts, ||rers or1 |s|or1s, Wo||s erc|os|r W|ot |oo|s |||e
o r|vote ||r1or W|t| |ts ur|forr re1t||e roof co|r out|ert|c o|1Wor|1 |oroue
orc||tecture, or1 t|e |ost str| |efore reoc||r t|e O|1 C|t], cofs or1 sei] |ors
u|sot|r W|t| t|rors of sur|osse1, |orec|este1, See1oc|o1 (|e||eve |t, |t's true)
or1 ||||r|e1 tour|sts or t|e|r orruo| surrer |o||1o].
Croot|o |r Ju|] |s eo| seosor tereroture reo1|rs ore ot 11`C ot Sr. Our ort]
of t|ree (r]se|f, r] |us|or1 He|r or1 s|ster /ore|e) |o1 1|v|1e1 our l01o] etoWo]
|rto four orts or1 |orre1 to 1r|ve our Wo] fror t|e |ottor to t|e to of t|e courtr].
ROADTRIPPING IN
CROATIA
be,once. Ja,. bono. Cw,ne| a|row.
anJ va on_or|aar|er are us a 'ew
o' |e A||sers Hoc||n_ o |e a|na|an
Coas. na||n_ | |e Jes|na|on Ju our
bu oJwa una|oVa|en|ne J|scovereJ
|ere's nore o Croa|a |an |e ce|e|
'acor |'s |e a''orJa||e |v|era
p000_Travel.indd 1 8/19/10 9:50:42 AM
travel
After |e|r |r trors|t for
c1 |ours, ooe1 |ut er|],
We 1roe1 off our |os ot
t|e Ko|e| Hote|, o c|orr|r
reW |ote| or t|e |or|our s|1e of t|e c|t]. lt's or t||s s|1e of
toWr W|ere ]ou cor (os be]orc or1 Jo]/ orce 1|1) c|orter
o r|vote |oot for 1o] tours or |orer. We rere rorto|s stro||e1
1oWr to t|e O|1 C|t] or1 |ou|t o c|our u|rovr|| tour oss
for ?0 |uro (o|out kll8), W||c| |ves ]ou free occess to se|ecte1
ruseurs |r t|e O|1 C|t] or1 ur||r|te1 |us trove| orour1
u|rovr||. Wo|||r orour1 t||s Wo||e1 c|t], |t's 1|fhcu|t to
recorc||e t|e 'lto||orst]|e' orc||tecture W||c| Jo|orres|ur's
rort|err su|ur|or|tes ore so o|sesse1 W|t| re||cot|r W|t|
t|e out|ert|c o|1Wor|1 structures 1ot|r |oc| to t|e lSt| or1
lct| certur|es. l tr|e1 to |or|s| t|e t|ou|t |ut cou|1r't |e|
t||r||r, out |ou1, 'lt's just |||e |ortecos|ro.' |icet t||s certre
Wos jur|r W|t| ort|sts |o]|r v|o||rs or1 oct|r out t|eotre
s||ts or t|e corrers of t|e co|||e1 |ores, eoc| o |o|]r|rt| of
restourorts, cofs, |out|ues, oresto corver|erce s|os,
ruseurs or1 ei||||t|or soces tuc|e1 oWo] u rorroWsto|rcoses.
We sert |ours Wor1er|r orour1, ||c||r |ce creors to sto]
coo| ur1er t|e |ot sur. Just ofter surset ot 8r, We storte1
ett|r |urr]. |ou|or or1 c|eo offer|rs |r t||s uorter ore
|o, osto or1 seofoo1, |ut W|t| W||1 seo |oss, fr|e1 or r|||e1
co|oror| or1 cutt|ehs| r|sotto or offer, seofoo1 |ecore our
S|ASl| ||AN|k
:cfZbn`j\ ]ifdkfg c\]k
!|e W|r1] coosto| route
frorS||t to |o|ors|o,
Nort] Se1||eSo||c or1 |er
sor outs|1e Hote| b|o|ovo,
fres| cotc|, /o1Wo ot
t|e Sou1Wove |est|vo| |r
|etrcore, t|e ro|r str|
over|oo||r t|e |or|our
|r |o|ors|o.
000 october 2010
MAKARSKA MAGIC
!|e 1|storce |etWeer S||t |or|our (W|ere We cou|t t|e
ferr] to Hvor) or1 |o|ors|o |s o re|||||e 80|r so We ote1
for t|e scer|c coosto| route, our 1|ese|oWere1 cor sro||r
o|or t|e W|r1|r roo1, eoc| turr reveo||r ||tt|e toWrs
1|ffer|r |r |or1scoe or1 ou|or|t].
ur|r t|e tr| l |eor to rot|ce |oW corforto||e
Croot|or Worer or1 rer ore W|t| t|e|r |o1|es. A|| s|oes
or1 s|es ore or 1|s|o] |r sW|rsu|ts or1 c|ee|] |o]su|ts
W|||e o|r o|out t|e|r s|o|r or s|r|] stro|||r, or1
roore 1oes so ruc| os o 1ou||e to|e. Not ever t|e rer| We
o|so o|| storte1 to rot|ce t|ot |t seere1 |||e We Were t|e or|]
||oc| eo|e |r Croot|o. but, of course, stro||t ofter ro||r
t||s o|servot|or, We ercourtere1 o ||oc| Woror, or||ro||]
fror Jo|orres|ur, ot t|e |ote| We c|ec|e1 |r to reit. S|e
ret, fe|| |r |ove W|t| or1 rorr|e1 o Croot|or or1 roW Wor|s
ot Hote| b|o|ovo's so (reo1 r] |rterv|eW W|t| Nort] Se1||e
So||c ot |or|ec|o|re.co.o c||c| or 'lr t||s |ssue').
|o|ors|o, l |ro|re, |s rot ur|||e o ur|vers|t] toWr t|ot
ert|es over t|e |o||1o]s. Here, t|e reverse occurs. Orce t|e
surrer |o||1o]s ore over, ore ore t|e |eout|fu| Woo1er
|oots |e|t|r out ort] tures |rv|t|r tour|sts to |oo| |ooe
cru|ses or |s|or1 tours. Ar1 t|e c|u|s |u||t |r coves, os We|| os
t|e |ors or1 restourorts t|ot eiter1 t|e|r seot|r for out
orto t|e overerts, rost ro|o||] c|ose or ot |eost sco|e
|oc|. !|ou| l'r sure ofter s|i to e||t rort|s of re|ert|ess
tour|st seosor, t|e |oco|s ore reo1] to |||errote.
ZADAR ON THE RADAR
Ore of t|e rost ou|or uest|ors We've |eer os|e1 |] our
fr|er1s reor1|r our c|o|ce of vocot|or sot |os |eer. 'W|]
Croot|o' !|ere ore o feW reosors. t|e ror1 or1 t|e |uro ore
or or, We |ove tWo Wor1erfu| fr|er1s frorCroot|o so We too|
t||s os or |r1|cot|or of t|e oo1 roture or1 s|r|t of t|e eo|e,
or1 for t|e hro| reosor, just Coo|e 'o|rot|or Coost'.
but t|e 1eo|seo|er Wos t|e Sour1Wove |est|vo|, |oer|r
|r o t|r] toWr co||e1 |etrcore, o|out e||t |||oretres fror
/o1or, or1 feotur|r /ero , J Vo1|r, C|rerot|c Orc|estro or1
ot|er tr||o, |||o or1 oc|1jo ort|sts. C|eor|] t|e Croots
|ove oo1 toste |r rus|c. !||s |ecore o|v|ous W|er We
||stere1 to t|e |oco| ro1|o stot|ors or1 |eor1 for rore roress|ve
tures t|or Sout| Afr|cor stot|ors |o]. Ar1 W|||e We Were |r
t|e courtr], !|e C|er|co| brot|ers, |eoror1 Co|er, |orc|ee|o,
Noto||e Co|e or1 |r Scruff o|| erforre1.
Ar1 so We 1escer1e1 or t||s t|r] seos|1e toWr overrur
W|t| rus|c|ors or1 rus|c |overs froro|| over t|e Wor|1, rerte1
o tWo|e1roorhot for CS0 (k4?0) o 1o] or1 Were treote1 to
surere |eots, 1orc|r |r s|o||oW, cr]sto|c|eor Woter, surr|r
ourse|ves or1 eot|r or1 1r|r||r W|t| rec||ess o|or1or. We
|o1 |eer |eoc| |urr|r or1 erjo]|r t|e s|r|e ||fe oror
rost|] for||] |o||1o]ro|ers for t|ree 1o]s, or1 l Wos rot|er
|oo||r forWor1 to sore ser|ous s|o|r or1 rour1|r off
our vocot|or W|t| o ||t of |uiur]|ote| 1We|||r. So or to /ore|.
foo1 of c|o|ce. Here, roWrs ore
co||e1 scor| or1 |oW ot|]
t|e Wor1 1escr||es t|ese t|r]
|r| seo creotures W||c| ]ou
ree1r't s|e|| |efore eot|r
(t|e]'re t|ot sro||). l Wor1ere1 W|ot t|e Croots Wou|1 t||r| of
our |oor||cuor roWrs.
W|t| ||re cors roct|co||] rorei|stert, |t Wos or|] |]
s|eer |uc| or1 t|e W|or1r] of our corc|ere/recet|or|st/tour
u|1e Jerr] Custov|c ot t|e Ko|e| Hote| t|ot We roroe1
to |oo| or Oe| Astro for Cc0 (kSS8) o 1o]. !||s Wos o ross|ve
sov|r or t|e cost or1 |eo1oc|e of u|||c trorsort. W|ot
We 1|1r't foctor |r, |oWever, |s t|ot Croots 1r|ve or t|e 'Wror'
s|1e of t|e roo1 or1 t|e steer|r W|ee| |s or t|e |eft s|1e of t|e
cor. W|t| He|r 1r|v|r os |f |e'1 just osse1 ||s ||cerce, t|e cor
corstort|] veer|r to t|e |eft os ||s e]es |ecore trorshie1 |]
t|e oss|r scerer], or1 re r||r t|e seot, /ore|e tr|e1 to
eose our rerves (or1 |ers) W|t| t|e |o||1o] sour1s of |C|!
W|||e We |eo1e1 to our reit 1est|rot|or. lr He|r's Wor1s, 'lt's
|||e tr]|r to ru| ]our turr] or1 ot ]our |eo1 ot t|e sore
t|re.' We o|| |ou|e1 o|out |t |ut or|] 1o]s ofterWor1s.
ONE NIGHT IN HVAR
!|ree terse |ours |oter We orr|ve1 |r S||t (Croot|o's secor1
||est c|t]) W|ere We |oor1e1 o ferr] for t|e tWo|our jourre]
to t|e |s|or1 of Hvor. !||s |s ore of t|e 40o11 |r|o||te1 |s|or1s
(out of l 000 |r toto|) |r Croot|o. Hote| Arforo |s o c0r|rute
co| 1r|ve frort|e |or|our. !|. |oo| ]our ferr] r|1e |efore
|or1 (t|e |ost ore 1eorts frorS||t ot 1r) or1 os| t|e |ote|
o|out t|e|r cor||rertor] s|utt|es to or1 frort|e |or|our.
Ho1 |t rot |eer for t|e oo1 forture of |ur|r |rto o rou
of Sout| Afr|cors, W|o 1|1r't r|r1 us suee|r |rto t|e|r
|erce1es, We Wou|1 |ove |o1 to cou| u k400 |r toi| fore,
W||c| Wou|1 |ove ser|ous|] |orere1 our coc|to|| |our.
Or our ore r||t |r Hvor, oo|rst o |oc|rour1 of |ouse
|eots, We uoffe1 |oco| W|re or1 o1r|re1 t|e surset frorArforo
o hvestor resort W|t| oo|, W||te ur|re||os or1 r|vote
oe|os. We t|er set off for t|e toWr, ojsut sever r|rutes'
Wo||. Here, t|e |s|or1's reve||ers reet to eot, 1r|r| or1 1orce
t|e r||t oWo] W||c| We 1|1 urt|| t|e rorr|r.
The centre was jumping
with artists playing violin
and acting out theatre
skits on the corners
of the cobbled lanes
l! JUS!
C|!S b|!!|k
8Yfm\ !|e 1o||]
fres| fru|t or1
veeto||e ror|et |r
O|1 !oWr, u|rovr||,
t|ot to|es u t|ree
|eve|s. 9\cfn!|e
|eout|fu| |s|or1
of Hovr.
p000_Travel.indd 2-3 8/19/10 9:51:12 AM
000 october 2010
travel
NEED TO KNOW
Q l |uro - kl,1
Q Sout| Afr|cors ree1 o vo||1
ossort or1 Croot|or v|so t|ot
costs o|out kc00 or1 to|es
l0 1o]s to rocess.
Q V|s|tors ree1 corre|ers|ve
trove| |rsurorce or1 ot |eost
Cl00 (o|out kl 000) o 1o].
Q !|e |est t|re to v|s|t |s |o]
to Seter|er to erjo] |ot, 1r]
tererotures (overoe cc`C).
STAY
Q K_\BXqY\b?fk\c u|rovr||,
Ko|e|1u|rovr||.cor
Q 8d]fiX?fk\c Surcor|
kesort, Surcor||vor.cor/
orforo|vorror1|eoc|
resort.|tr|
Q ?fk\c9`fbfmf |o|ors|o,
Hote|||o|ovo.|r/
Q ?fk\c8j /ore|,
Hote|os.|r/
Q K_\I\^\ek?fk\c /ore|,
keert|ote|s.cor/ore|
EAT AND DRINK
Q DXc`D\[fJXdfYfi best
||stro u| |r /ore|. ||vr|co
re1ve1ro1.|r
Q I\jkXliXek8^XmX ||re
1|r|r |r o cosuo| sett|r.
kestourortoovo.|r
Q Q`e]Xe[\c ||re 1|r|r.
keert|ote|s.cor/|ote|s/
orl/1|r|rs
Q M`ef[fcI\jkfiXe Aut|ert|c
|oco| cu|s|re. V|ro1o|.|r
SHOP
Q DX^dX \ou'|| hr1 !oS|o,
||ss Se|fr|1e, |sr|t, Ur|or
keu|||c or1 rore. |oro.|r
Q Clj_ |oco||] ro1e o||
roturo| |ot| soos, so|ts, |o1]
|utters or1 rore. |us|.|r
Q Gifjkfi Croot|o's vers|or
of Sout| Afr|co's !|e Soce.
|u|t|roc|oro|ro|oror|jo.cor
Q 8m\el\DXcc !Wo hoors
of /oro| Averuero||.cor.|r
Q M`Zkfi bout|ue feotur|r
Corre 1es Corors, \ororoto,
eic|us|ve Croot|or 1es|rs or1
frororces. V|ctor.|r
SPECIAL
READER OFFER
||||ts fror Jo'|ur to
/ore| stort fror kS ??0
(|rc|u1|r toies) or !ur||s|
A|r||res. Cor||re t||s W|t|
o |or1 oc|oe, r|ce1 fror
k1 400 er ersor s|or|r,
W||c| |rc|u1es e||t 1o]s'
cor ||re, tWo r||ts |r /ore|
or1 hve r||ts |r S||t
(|reo|fost |rc|u1e1 1o||]),
|us o trove| |o. !o et t||s
sec|o| offer, uote |kS?l81S
W|er co|||r to |oo|. |or
rore |rforrot|or cortoct
||||t Certre or 08c0400
4 or v|s|t ||||tcertre.co.o
or S|S 'uote' to 11c4S or1
o corsu|tort W||| co|| ]ou |oc|.
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ZAGREB, THE CAPITAL
lf u|rovr|| |s |||e Coe !oWr, /o1or |s ver] ruc| |||e |o|1
|oc| ur|or, W|||e /ore| |s s|r||or to Jo|orres|ur W|t| |ts
oru|or |ut |eout|fu| orc||tecture, overrrert |u||1|rs or1
tro|ror1trortroc|e1 roo1s. l |ove t|e foct t|ot t|e s|1eWo||s
ore reserve1 str|ct|] for c]c||sts, 1erorcote1 W|t| re1 or1
]e||oW ||res. Ar1 fror ?or eo|e stort h|||r u s|1eWo||
cofs, 1r|r||r coffee or |ceco|1 |eers. lt's suc| o cof soc|et].
We sto]e1 ot t|e Hote| As, W||c| |s c|ose to t|e ro|r
s|o|r 1|str|ct or1 o |oco| ror|et t|ot se||s fres| fru|t or1
veeto||es. Just u t|e roo1 fror t|e |ote|, t|e forest ottrocts
|||ers, joers or1 1o Wo||ers. !||s Wos t|e hrst t|re We'1
seer o 1o s|rce We'1 orr|ve1 |r Croot|o. Aorert|] t|e] ore
seer os ests o|or t|e coost.
We'1 reo1 t|ot Croot|o |s o cu||ror] 1est|rot|or
reute1 for |ts W|re, or1 We ot to eier|erce t||s
ot t|e |uiur|ous keert |s|oro1e, W|ere We toste1
t|e |est stru||j| (o cottoec|eese stru1e| |o|e1
|etWeer |o]ers of t||r|] s||ce1 ostr]) os We|| os
tro1|t|oro||] reore1 or1 serve1 seo |oss (|o|e1
|r coorse seo so|t, t|e |or1 crust forre1 1ur|r
reorot|or |s croc|e1 ot t|e to||e). We o|so 1|scovere1
t|e Wor1erfu| W|re t|ot |o1 so for e|u1e1 us. !|. for o oo1
W||te W|re, tr] Ko|ov|c |o|vo|jo.
At t||s t|re of ]eor, rost Croots ore |o||1o]|r o|or t|e
coost so /ore| Wos u|et. |er|os t||s |s W|] |] llr sore
restourorts Were o|reo1] sWee|r u. Ar1 W|], t|or|fu||],
We 1|1r't suffer t|e |orovers t|ot usuo||] core courtes] of
t|e |oco| ||ueurs. becouse rot or|] Were We offere1 jus of
Woter |etWeer ever] s|ot of !rovor|cos (o ||ueur ro1e fror
ferrerte1 fru|t) or1 |e||r|ovocs (o ||tter ||ueur s|r||or to
Joerre|ster), or1 ever] |oss of |eer (ror|r fror Oujs|o
to Kor|ovoc), We Were o|so |r |e1 |] r|1r||t to s|ee |t off or1
Wo|e u ot |e|sure. A|| Surrer |o||1o]s.
At 9am people start
lling up sidewalk
cafs drinking coffee
or ice-cold beers
A !AS!| O| !H| COO |l||
:cfZbn`j\]ifdk_`jg`Zkli\/|rfor1e|
restourort ot !|e keert |s|oro1e, /ore|,
ro|e sure ]ou 1o o sot of s|o|r ot /ore|'s
|rostor, /ore| |s |||e Croot|o's Jo|orres|ur.
p000_Travel.indd 4 8/19/10 9:51:20 AM