The Ancient PERUVIAN CHARM

Katie Charing revisits Peru, the land of deadly and delicious Pisco Sours, nonplussed llamas and awe-inspiring Inca remains, finding it obvious why the diverse and colourful nation is enjoyed by millions of visitors every year

n the variety of its charms and the power of its spell, I k n o w of no place i n the w o r l d which can compare w i t h i t . " So wrote the renowned explorer H i r a m

cuisine. He served us a truly delicious selection of dishes that made us swear never to return to a chain restaurant again. Highlights were the deeplyflavoured Nizakana deep sea grouper and the innovative wasabi ice-cream. After a short flight to Cusco and guided drive we arrived i n the Sacred Valley, once k n o w n as the 'garden of the Incas', a picturesque stretch of

bank of the Urubamba River left us feeling truly connected to the ancient spirituality of the setting. We spent the day exploring the valley w i t h our prodigiously knowledgeable multi-lingual guide, w h o brought the history of the sites to life w i t h fast-paced tales and interesting facts from recent research and excavations. Having a top-quality guide is essential to fully appreciate the skill and scientific understanding of the Incas. We wandered through the magnificent Inca fortress of Ollantaytambo, where current inhabitants still live i n constructions first built under the reign of Inca Pachacuti i n the mid-1400s. Next we marvelled at the giant circular ruins of Moray, believed to have been part of an Inca agricultural laboratory, and saw the intricate mosaic of salt pans at Maras, where salt has been harvested since the time of the Incas. After such a fantastic introduction to Peruvian history, we couldn't wait to visit Machu Picchu the following day. M a c h u Picchu is deservedly one of the nation's key tourist attractions, and travellers have flocked to the sacred site for decades. Some traverse one of the

Bingham upon discovering the lost Inca citadel of M a c h u Picchu i n 1911, although he could easily have been speaking of Peru i n its entirety. Thus we could barely contain our excitement as we landed at Lima to begin our luxury tour of the highlights of Southern Peru. W i t h hotels impeccably placed around the country, Orient-Express provides a perfect base f r o m which to explore this exceptional destination. I n the capital, L i m a , a bustling and modern city reflecting the country's recent economic g r o w t h , we stayed at the Miraflores Park Hotel, located in an upmarket district of the city beside the Pacific Ocean. There we sampled Lima's vibrant and growing gastronomic scene i n its stylish restaurant, Mesa 18, one of the city's most fashionable foodie destinations. Head chef Toshiro Konishi, a friend of the famous N o b u Matsuhisa, is a leading practitioner of N i k k e i , the union of Japanese and Peruvian

Anticipation built from the moment we stepped onto the elegant blue and gold train
small villages and ancient ruins spread across mountain slopes northwest of Cusco. We passed through the pretty market t o w n of Pisac before arriving at the Rio Sagrado Hotel, a haven perfectly i n harmony w i t h its rural setting. After a relaxing soak in the outdoor Jacuzzi i n the hotel's M a y u W i l k a Spa and a couple of refreshing chilcano de pisco cocktails, made w i t h fresh ginger slices and lime, we almost floated back to our suite. The early morning outdoor yoga class on the

From Left: Hotel location, Hiram Bingham exterior, Hiram Bingham interior

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famous Inca trail routes through the Andes along paths built by the Incas themselves, while others opt to travel there by one of the spectacularly scenic train routes. Its discoverer reached Machu Picchu after a gruelling mule trek, but n o w gives his name to one of the most luxurious locomotives i n the w o r l d , the H i r a m Bingham, our transport to this magical site. Anticipation built f r o m the moment we stepped onto the elegant blue and gold train, whose path f r o m Poroy, near Cusco, to Aquas Calientes is one of the world's greatest train routes. Everything inside was designed to make the journey an experience in itself, exciting the senses and encouraging passengers to sit back and enjoy the once-in-a-lifetime ride. We sipped champagne as the train pulled out of the station and relaxed into our beautifully upholstered seats. Used to dull commutes on the Tube, I had packed my iPod and Kindle, but I left them tucked away i n my bag for the entire three-hour journey, too mesmerised by the green mountains towering skywards just beside the track. W h e n we weren't enjoying a delicious brunch at our private dining table, we went for even better views to the panoramic observation car to admire the lush greenery of the cloud forest and the rushing Urubamba River, to whose bank the train clings for much of the route. Energised and excited, we arrived at Machu Picchu i n the afternoon, just as the majority of other visitors were leaving, this impeccable timing being one of the many advantages of the H i r a m Bingham journey. Photos didn't prepare me for the feeling of walking

amidst the clouds at the sacred site; it felt like an ancient Inca heaven i n the skies. Our entertaining Orient-Express guide had a comprehensive answer for any question, f r o m the site's history to the exotic flora and fauna found there. We had to continue our whistle-stop tour, but Orient-Express's Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, the only hotel located adjacent to the site, w o u l d make a fantastic base from which to try one of the many hikes around the area, perhaps to Wayna Picchu, a neighbouring mountain, or the original Inca Sun-Gate, where you can get an awe-inspiring aerial view of the ruins. After leaving the train we were taken to the Hotel Monasterio i n the heart of the historic city of Cusco, nestling high i n the Andes mountains 3,300 metres above sea level. The building itself merits its o w n guided tour; originally built in 1592 on the site of an Inca palace, it's a wonderful example of Peru's Renaissance Colonial architecture. Walking through the stone cloisters built on different levels we felt like we were i n an Escher painting. In June this year, Orient-Express are opening a second hotel in Cusco, Palacio Nazarenas, a former palace and convent lovingly restored to showcase Peru's finest artisans and designed w i t h absolute comfort i n mind. O n our last day, a relaxed tour took us to the city's top locations including Sacsayhuaman (or w i t h our English pronunciation, 'Sexy Woman'), located on a hill above the city centre. I n just seven days we'd experienced modern luxury, ancient wonders and pastoral perfection. W i t h so much more of the country to explore, our only regret was that we had to leave so soon. Ill

From Top: Landscape en route, Hotel Monasterio Junior Suite, Executive Suite at Miraflores Park Hotel

MORE INFORMATION
A 7-day trip, staying in Orient-Express properties in Lima, the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Cuzco, and including the Orient-Express-owned Hiram Bingham train journey to Machu Picchu, costs 3,250 per person based on double occupancy and includes international flights, private tours, transfers throughout and a shared tour of the site of Machu Picchu. For tailor-made itineraries to Peru, please contact Audley Travel on 01993 838600 or visit www.audleytravel.com/peru

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