DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION

PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY

Chapter III
3.1 METHODOLOGY FOR ASSESSMENT
OF SPECIFICATIONS
3.2 INSPECTION SYSTEMS
3.2.1 SYSTEM - I {FLAW BASED)
3.2.2 SYSTEM - II {4-POINT SYSTEM)
3.2.3 SYSTEM - III {10-POINT SYSTEM)
OUALTY N8PECTON
One of the definitions of Quality is that, The totality
of features and characteristics of a product or service
that bears on its ability to satisfy the stated or im-
plied needs," (ISO 8+02.98).
The inspection is one of the crucial stage activity in
the manufacture of textile products. The products at
various stages such as on receipt, during the process
and final stage are normally inspected to assess the
status of the product for acceptance or otherwise.
Inspection is carried out mainly to appraise the qual-
ity of products in terms of manufacturing defects and
adherence to the specifications and other require-
ments. Normally, the visual inspection is carried out
on the fabric to examine the occurrence of yarn de-
fects, fabric defects, design[colours besides specifi-
cation particulars and followed by drawing the samples
for testing to know the hidden quality parameters such
as shrinkage, strength, colour fastness etc.
In the earlier days, the inspection was mainly carried
out to segregate the defective products from the good
products thereby controlling the quality of products
at the exit points. In the late 80s, the concept of
quality has undergone total transformation from qual-
ity control to quality assurance and total quality man-
agement. In the changed scenario, the inspection is
mainly carried out to ascertain that the products con-
form to requirement and initiate suitable corrective
and preventive action if otherwise.
There are two ways of doing inspection viz. l00
inspection and sampling inspection. The l00 in-
spection is generally carried out to segregate the prod-
ucts quality-wise and perform mending activity for
products having mendable defects whereas the sam-
pling inspection mainly focus on sentencing the lot or
batch for acceptance or otherwise based on the
sample.
The entire quantity of fabrics received from the sup-
pliers or sub-contractors and production departments
(in case of units with a manufacturing facility) has to
be thoroughly checked for specificational particulars,
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
quality parameters including defects, before further
processing so that the quality of the finished product
can be assured. This will lead to reduction in defects
in the final product, re]ection level, replacement and
thereby improve the quality of the final product which
results in quality image in the market.
Inspection and Mending is to be carried out on a flat
table in a well illuminated[ ventilated place. Inspec-
tion equipments like counting glass, a good calibrated
tape, metallic comb, clipper-plucker needle are to be
provided to the checkers.
CHECKNG OF DMEN8ON8
MEASUREMENT OF WIDTH:
Width shall be measured at three different places of
the fabric and recorded.
While measuring width, care should be
taken
to remove the wrinkles[ crease gently from
the fabric surface.
to keep the measuring tape straight across
the fabric horizontally from selvedge to
selvedge.
to measure the width as far as possible
near the centre avoiding the ends.
not to stretch the fabric while measuring.
MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH:
Fabric to be measured for length and actual length
recorded.
Length is measured by any of the
following methods
By passing through metre counter fitted roller.
By manually clipping the fabrics in the fold
measuring frame.
By counting the number of metre fold in case
of folded fabrics.
Care to be taken to ensure that the folds are
of one metre length by measuring a few folds.
2
3.1 METHODOLOGY FOR ASSESSMENT OF SPECIFICATIONS
CHECKNG OF CON8TRUCTONAL
PARTCULAR8
ENDS PER INCH:
Ends per inch shall be counted at two places along
the width of the fabric and recorded.
PICKS PER INCH:
Picks per inch shall be counted at three places along
the length of the fabric and recorded.
Care to be taken while placing the pick glass to see
that the edges of the template should coincide with
the yarn. Ends[Picks per inch may be counted for
one inch. Also the picks should not be counted at
defective places like weft bars and cracks.
WEIGHT PER SQ.MTR.:
Pieces are to be weighed and recorded. Weight per
square metre to be calculated and recorded.
CALCULATION OF WEIGHTJSQ.MTR.:
Weigh the individual piece under Inspection and
note-down.
Work out the sq.mtrs. of the piece by multiplying
the length of the piece in mtrs. and width of the
piece in mtrs.
Calculate wt.[sq.mtrs . as:
Weight in kgs.
Length in mtrs. X Width in mtrs.
-N=FA
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
+.250 kgs ( weight of the piece)
25 mtrs (length) X l.3 mtrs. (width)
+.250 = 0.l308 or 0.131 kgs.
32.5
wt.[sq.mt. in kgs. =
=
Let us calculate the wt.[sq.mtrs. of piece of 25 mtrs. length With
a width of l30 cms. (l.3 mtrs.) . The weight of the piece was
found to be +.250 kgs.
3.2 INSPECTION SYSTEMS
There are three different systems for grading the
quality of fabric, which are as follows:
3.2.1 SYSTEM - I {FLAW BASED)
In this system, depending upon the magnitude,
defects are classified as minor, ma]or or serious.
Note:
1) Minor Flaws:
Minor flaws occurring more than one in num-
ber within l5 cms. length of the cloth shall
be reckoned as one minor flaw only and such
minor flaw shall be reckoned at the rate of
one for every l5 cms. length of the cloth.
2) Major Flaws:
a) Ma]or flaws occurring more than one in
number within a length of l5 cms. of the cloth
shall be reckoned as one ma]or flaw only.
b) Ma]or flaws occurring in a consecutive
length beyond l5 cms. shall be reckoned as
one ma]or flaw each for every l5 cms. or part
thereof. This will not apply to ma]or flaws
where magnitude has been limited to a spe-
cific limit.
3) Selvedge Defects:
a) In case of furnishing fabrics all selvedge
defects like pulled in selvedge, wavy selvedge
etc. of minor nature are also to be reckoned
as ma]or flaws.
b) Defective or damaged selvedge exceeding
5 of the length of the piece in case of fur-
nishing fabrics are to be reckoned as serious
flaw.
c) All types of selvedge defects or weaving
defects very close to the selvedges are not to
be reckoned in case of fabrics used for mak-
ing garments[made-ups.
3
ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS:
The acceptability level for `first quality fabric is usu-
ally established by mutual agreement between the
buyer and the seller. The different types of fabrics
have different point levels of acceptability depending
upon their end use.
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
Acceptance number
Sample size of major flaws
in metres
l200 29 +0
ll75 28 39
ll50 27 38
ll25 27 37
ll00 26 36
l075 25 35
l050 25 3+
l025 2+ 33
l000 23 32
975 23 3l
950 22 3l
925 22 30
900 2l 29
875 20 28
850 20 27
825 l9 26
800 l8 25
775 l8 2+
750 l7 23
725 l6 23
700 l6 22
675 l5 2l
650 l+ 20
Standard Standard
'A-1' 'A'
625 l+ l9
600 l3 l8
575 l2 l7
550 l2 l6
525 ll l6
500 ll l5
+75 l0 l+
+50 9 l3
+25 9 l2
+00 8 ll
375 7 ll
350 7 l0
325 6 9
300 6 8
275 5 7
250 + 6
225 + 6
200 3 5
l75 3 +
l50 2 3
l25 2 3
l00 l 2
Minor flaws : @ 25 per l00 metres maximum are acceptable.
Serious flaws: No serious flaw is acceptable.
Acceptance number
Sample size of major flaws
in metres
Standard Standard
'A-1' 'A'
THE ACCEPTABILITY STANDARD DEVELOPED BY TEXTILES COMMITTEE
FOR EXPORT OF MILL - MADE COTTON CLOTH
Some of the commonly followed standard for accept-
ability for the above mentioned systems are listed in
the following pages.
4
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
FORMATS OF VISUAL CHECKING REPORT OF FABRIC
Once the defects are classified and graded they have
to be recorded in the visual inspection report of
fabric(work sheet) ANNEXURE-I
Instructions for filling up the visual checking report
of fabric:
PART-I:
Fill up the required details available with the unit
which are self explanatory.
PART-II :
i) Piece no.: Write serial no. of the piece taken
for inspection.
ii) Length in mtrs.[yards: Write the specified
stamped length in declared column and actual
length in actual column.
iii) Width in inches[cms. Measure the width at
three places and record the same against the
respective column with average.
iv) Ends per inch: Count the ends per inch at
two different places and record the same against
the respective columns with average.
v) Picks per inch: Count the picks per inch at
three different places and record the same
against the respective columns with average.
vi) Weight per piece in kgs.: Weigh the individual
inspected piece in kilograms and record the
same against the respective columns.
PART - III:
i) Piece no.: Record the serial no. of the piece
taken for inspection.
ii) Serious flaws and total: Note down the seri-
ous flaws observed by giving flaw number men-
tioned in Chapter I and the same is to be noted
in flaw number row and number of such flaws
are to be recorded in respective column number
with total.
iii) Ma]or flaws and total: Note down the ma]or
flaws observed by giving flaw number mentioned
in Chapter I and the same is to be noted in flaw
number row and number of such flaws are to be
recorded in respective column number with to-
tal.
iv) Minor flaws and total: Note down the minor
flaws observed by giving flaw number mentioned
in Chapter I and the same is to be noted in flaw
number row and number of such flaws are to be
recorded in respective column number with to-
tal.
v) Remarks: Under this column, checker can
report absence of stamping, shade variation on
comparison with approved sample or any other
parameters required to be inspected.
PART-IV:
The details are to be recorded from Part-III af-
ter summarising serious, ma]or and minor flaws
numberwise with total.
PART-V:
Quantity inspected in terms of pieces[metres are
to be recorded from Part-II. The other details
are to be recorded from Part-Iv after
summarising the total number of serious, ma]or
and minor flaws observed. Acceptability or oth-
erwise can be determined as per buyer[unit re-
quirement.
PART-VI:
The details are to be recorded from Part-II after
summarising width, length, ends per inch, picks
per inch and weight per sq.mtr. Acceptability or
otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit
requirement.
Checker must sign the worksheet and summary sheet
filled up by him.
5
Length of defect in fabric, Points
either length or width allotted
Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.) l
Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (l5 cms.) 2
Over 6 in. (l5 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.) 3
Over 9 in. (23 cms.) +
Holes and openings
{largest dimension)
l in. (2.5 cms.) or less 2
Over l in. (2.5 cms.) +
6
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
3.2.2 SYSTEM - II {4-POINT SYSTEM)
The +-point system, also called the American Ap-
parel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point-
grading system for determining fabric quality, is
widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and
by the Department of Defence in the United States
and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC.
Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values
based on the following:
The maximum number of defect points to be
counted against any one linear yard[metre is four
points. Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the
basis of the number of defect points per l00 sq
yards[sq mtrs. of fabric.
ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS:
Normally fabric rolls containing up to +0 points
per l00 sq yds. and +8 points per l00 sq mtrs.
are acceptable. However, based on the price line
and end product more or less than +0[+8 points
per l00 sq. yds.[l00 sq mtrs. respectively may be
accepted.
Example - 1:
A fabric roll of l20 yds. long and +8 in. wide con-
tains the following defects:
2 defects up to 3 in. 2 x l = 2 points
5 defects over 3 in. 5 x 2 = l0 points
but less than 6 in.
l defects over 6 in. l x 3 = 3 points
but less than 9 in.
l defect over 9 in. l x + = + points
TOTAL=l9 points
Therefore,
Points[l00 sq. yds.
= Total points scored in the roll x 3600
Fabric width in inches x Total yard inspected
= l9 x 3600
+8 x l20
= 11.9 defect pointsJ100 sq. yds.
So if the acceptance criteria is +0 points[l00 sq.
yds. then this roll is acceptable.
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
Example - 2:
A fabric roll of l00 metres long and l50 cms. wide
contains the following defects:
3 defects up to 7.5 cms (3in). 3 x l = 3 points
6 defects over 7.5 cms. 6 x 2 = l2 points
but less than l5 cms.
(over 3 in. but less than 6 in.)
2 defects over l5 cms. 2 x 3 = 6 points
but less than 23 cms.
(over 6 in. but less than 9 in.)
l defect over 23 cms. (9 in.) l x + = + points
TOTAL = 25 points
Therefore,
Points[l00 sq.mtr
= Total points scored in the roll x l0000
Fabric width in cms. x Total metre inspected
= 25 x l0000
l50 x l00
= 16.67 defect pointsJ100 sq.mtrs.
So if the acceptance criteria is +8 points[l00 sq. mts.
then this roll is acceptable.
FORMATS OF VISUAL CHECKING REPORT OF FABRIC
Once the defects are classified and graded they have
to be recorded in the visual inspection report of
fabric(work sheet) ANNEXURE - II
Instructions for filling up the visual checking report
of fabric.
PART-I: Fill up the required details available with
the unit which are self explanatory.
PART-II:
i) Piece no.: Write serial no. of the piece taken
for inspection.
ii) Length in mtrs.[yds.: Write the specified
stamped length in declared column and actual
length in actual column.
iii) Width in inches[cms. Measure the width at
three places and record the same against the re-
spective column with average.
iv) Ends per inch: Count the ends per inch at
two different places and record the same against
the respective columns with average.
v) Picks per inch: Count the picks per inch at
three different places and record the same against
the respective columns with average.
vi) Weight per piece in kgs.: Weigh the individual
inspected pieces in kilograms and record the same
against the respective columns.
PART - III :
i) Piece no.: Record the serial no. of the piece
taken for inspection.
ii) Hole, cut or tear: Record the flaws observed
as per their magnitude in respective column giv-
ing flaw number - 2.6 (mentioned in Chapter I)
in the respective row. Total number of points
are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with
the points allotted to that particular flaw and the
same is to be recorded below the number of flaws
already mentioned putting a slash eg. l[2 as-
suming l flaw of 2 point is observed.
iii) The defects upto 3 inches: Record the flaws
observed as per their magnitude in respective
column giving flaw number (mentioned in Chap-
ter I) in the respective row. Total number of
points are to be calculated by multiplying the
flaws with the points allotted to that particular
flaw and the same is to be recorded below the
number of flaws already mentioned putting a
slash eg. l[l assuming l flaw of l point is ob-
served.
iv) Over 3 inches to 6 inches: Record the flaws
observed as per their magnitude in respective
7
column giving flaw number (mentioned in Chap-
ter I) in the respective row. Total number of
points are to be calculated by multiplying the
flaws with the points allotted to that particular
flaw and the same is to be recorded below the
number of flaws already mentioned putting a
slash eg. l[2 assuming l flaw of 2 point is ob-
served.
v) Over 6 inch to 9 inch: Record the flaws ob-
served as per their magnitude in respective col-
umn giving flaw number (mentioned in Chapter
I) in the respective row. Total number of points
are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with
the points allotted to that particular flaw and the
same is to be recorded below the number of flaws
already mentioned putting a slash eg. l[3 as-
suming l flaw of 3 point is observed.
vi) Over 9 inches: Record the flaws observed as
per their magnitude in respective column giving
flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the re-
spective row. Total number of points are to be
calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points
allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to
be recorded below the number of flaws already
mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[+ assuming l
flaw of + point is observed.
vii) Total flaws: It is to be recorded for each indi-
vidual pieces.
viii) Total points: It is to be recorded for each
individual pieces.
ix) Remarks: Under this column, the checker can
report absence of stamping, shade variation on
comparison with approved sample or any other
parameters required to be inspected.
PART-IV: The details are to be recorded from Part-
III after summarising defects point-wise and magni-
tude wise and record the same against respective
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
3.2.3 SYSTEM - III {10-POINT SYSTEM)
Under this system, fabric defects are assigned point
values based on the following:-
Length of defect, Points allotted
Warp defects
Up tol inch l
l to 5 inch 3
5 to l0 inch 5
l0 to 36 inch l0
Filing defect
{weft defect)
Up to l inch l
l to 5 inch 3
5 inch to half-width 5
Larger than half-width l0
No linear yard of fabric is assigned more than l0
points, no matter how bad or frequent the defects
are.
flaw number with total.
PART-V: Quantity inspected pieces[metres are to be
recorded from Part-II. The other details are to be
recorded from Part-III after summarising the total
number of flaws observed, total points and points
per l00 sq.yds. Acceptability or otherwise can be
determined as per buyer[unit requirement.
PART-VI: The details are to be recorded from Part-
II after summarising width, length, ends per inch,
picks per inch and weight per sq.mtr. Acceptability or
otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit re-
quirement.
Checker must sign the worksheet and summary sheet
filled up by him.
8
Acceptability criteria for flaws:
Fabric is considered of `first quality if the number of
defect points are less than the number of yards of
fabric inspected. In the case of fabrics wider than 50
in., the fabric is considered of first quality if the total
defect points do not exceed the number of yards of
fabric inspected by l0.
FORMATS OF VISUAL CHECKING REPORT OF
FABRIC
Once the defects are classified and graded they have
to be recorded in the visual inspection report of fab-
ric (work sheet) ANNEXURE - III
Instructions for filling up the visual checking
report of fabric.
PART-I : Fill up the required details available with
the unit which are self explanatory.
PART-II :
i) Piece no.: Write serial no. of the piece taken
for inspection.
ii) Length in mtrs.[yds.: Write the specified
stamped length in declared column and actual
length in actual column.
iii) Width in inches[cms. Measure the width at
three places and record the same
against the respective column with average.
iv) Ends per inch: Count the ends per inch at two
different places and record the same against the
respective columns with average.
v) Picks per inch: Count the picks per inch at three
different places and record the same against the
respective columns with average.
vi) Weight per piece in kgs.: Weigh the individual
inspected pieces in kilograms and record the same
against the respective columns.
PART - III:
i) Piece no.: Record the serial no. of the piece
taken for inspection.
ii) Warp way upto l inch: Record the flaws ob-
served as per their magnitude in respective col-
umn giving flaw number (mentioned in Chapter
I) in the respective row. Total number of points
are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with
the points allotted to that particular flaw and the
same has to be recorded below the number of
the flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g.
l[l assuming l flaw of l point is observed.
iii) Warp way l inch to 5 inches: Record the flaws
observed as per their magnitude in respective
column giving flaw number (mentioned in chap-
ter I) in the respective row. Total number of points
are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with
the points allotted to that particular flaw and the
same is to be recorded below the number of flaws
already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[3 as-
suming l flaw of 3 points is observed.
iv) Warp way 5 inches to l0 inches: Record the
flaws observed as per their magnitude in respec-
tive column giving flaw number (mentioned in
chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of
points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws
with the number of points allotted to the particu-
lar flaw and the same is to be recorded below the
number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash
e.g. l[5 assuming l flow of 5 point is observed.
v) Warp way l0 inches to 36 inches: Record the
flaws observed as per their magnitude in respec-
tive column giving flaw number (mentioned in
Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of
points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws
with the points allotted to that particular flaw and
DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION
PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY
9
the same is to be recorded below the number of
flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[
l0 assuming l flaw of l0 point is observed.
vi) Filling up to l inch: Record the flaws observed
as per their magnitude in respective column, giv-
ing flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the
respective row. Total number of points are to be
calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points
allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to
be recorded below the number of flaws already
mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[l assuming l
flaw of l point is observed.
vii) Filling l inch to 5 inches: Record the flaws
observed as per their magnitude in respective
column giving a flaw number (mentioned in Chap-
ter I) in the respective row. Total number of points
are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with
the points allotted to that particular flaw and the
same is to be recorded below the number of flaws
already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[3 as-
suming l flaw of 3 point is observed.
viii) Filling 5 inches to half of the width: Record
the flaws observed as per their magnitude in re-
spective column giving a flaw number (mentioned
in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number
of points are to be calculated by multiplying the
flaws with the points allotted to that particular
flaw and the same is to be recorded below the
number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash
e.g. l[5 assuming l flaw of 5 point is observed.
ix) Filling larger than half of the width: Record
the flaws observed as per their magnitude in re-
spective column giving a flaw number (mentioned
in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number
of points are to be calculated by multiplying the
flaws with the points allotted to that particular
flaw and the same is to be recorded below the
number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash
e.g. l[l0 assuming l flaw of l0 point is observed.
x) Total flaws: It is to be recorded for each indi-
vidual pieces.
xi) Total points: It is to be recorded for each
individual pieces.
xii) Remarks: Under this column, the checker can
report absence of stamping, shade variation on
comparison with approved sample or any other
parameters required to be inspected.
PART-IV:
The details are to be recorded from Part-III after
summarising defects point wise and magnitude
wise (warp way and filling way) and record the
same against respective flaw number with total.
PART-V:
Quality inspected pieces are to be recorded from
Part-II. The other details to be recorded from Part-
III and Part Iv after summarising total number
of flaws observed and total points. Acceptability
or otherwise can be determined as buyer[unit
requirement.
PART-VI:
The details are to be recorded from Part-II after
summarising width, length, ends per inch, picks
per inch and weight per sq.mtr. Acceptability or
otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit
requirement.
Checker must sign the worksheet and summary sheet
filled up by him.
10