Fabric – Woven Fabrics

WOVEN FABRICS
Fabrics are made of yarns by weaving them in different combinations. It is mostly
done by interlacing two sets of yarn or thread made of fibers called the warp and
weft of the loom. It only stretches in the bias directions, between the warp and weft
directions, unless the threads are elastic.
Lengthwise stronger vertical yarns with more twist are Warp or Picks while widthwise
filling yarns are termed as weft or ends. Sidewise edge of fabric is termed as
Selvedge.
THREE BASIC WEAVES
There are three main types of weave: Plain, Twill and Satin
Plain weave is a basic weave which is made when the thread is woven on one up and
one down principle, some plain weave fabrics are Chambray, Chiffon, Gingham, and
Organza etc.
Twill weave is made when the thread is placed by varying the order of interlacing the
yarns so that diagonal parallel lines are produced across the fabric.
Satin Weave is a weave made when each warp yarn floats over four filling yarns and
interlaces with fifth filling yarn.

Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave

 Fabric – Weft Knit Fabrics

Knitted Fabrics
Knitting is the process of construction of a fabric by interlocking loops of yarn by
means of hooked needles. Knitted fabric consists of horizontal rows known as courses
and vertical columns of loops known as Wales. Knitted fabrics are porous having
insulated air pockets giving warmth when worn. Knitted fabrics are very absorbent,
wrinkle resistant and lightweight. They shrink more than woven fabrics unless shrink-
proofing techniques are used.

Weft knit structures

Weft Knit fabric consists of horizontal parallel courses of yarn generally characterized
by the structural threads being perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric. These are
produced in either tubular or flat form; usually elastic & highly drapable. Some weft Knit stitch
knitted fabrics are Circular Knit, Flat Knit, and Hosiery Knit. Whatever their structure,
all knit fabrics are composed of three basic stitches: Knit & Purl, Tuck and Miss (float
or non knit) which are foundation of all weft knitted structures.

Plain or Purl Knit Stitch can be produced in flat knit, tubular, or circular forms.
Basic knit stitch is a plain stitch while Purl is basically reverse of a basic plain knit
stitch. This plain flat knit is also called jersey stitch. Knit stitch (technical face) is a V-
shaped appearance where the shanks are above and the feet are below the head of
preceding stitch. Purl stitch (the technical back) is of the semi circle appearance
where the legs are below, and the feet are above the head of preceding stitch. The
loops form vertical rows, also called Wales, on the fabric face, giving it a sheen, and
crosswise rows, also called courses on the back.
Tuck stitch
Tuck stitch, is a knit stitch which creates an open space in the fabric. It is made when Purl stitch
a needle rises to take a new loop without casting the old. It consists of a held loop
and a tuck loop both of which are intermeshed in the same course. A tuck loop
always faces the technical back of the knitted structure.
Missed stitch
Missed- stitch or Float stitch is so called as it produces a float of yarn on the fabric's
wrong side. Also termed as a miss stitch as it is a length of yarn not received by a
needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not adjacent wales.

Tuck stitch

Missed stitch
 Fabric – Warp Knit Fabrics

WARP KNIT
Can be defined when structural threads of fabric running along the length of fabric
approximately parallel to selvedge. One horizontal row of loops is made from many
threads. It is not easy to unravel like weft knit. Not as elastic as weft knits. Some
examples of warp knitted fabrics are Tricot and Raschel,

Warp knit structures

The six fundamental stitches in warp knitting are Tricot Knit, Milanese Knit, Simplex
Knit, Raschel Knit, and Ketten Raschel Knit, and Crochet Knit.
1. TRICOT KNIT fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant and has good drapability. Tricot knits
are used for a wide variety of fabric weights and designs. Some tricot fabrics are
lingerie, loungewear, sleepwear, blouses, shirts, dresses, slacks etc.
2. MILANESE KNIT produces a fabric very similar to tricot. It can be identified by the
fine rib on the face and a diagonal pattern on the back. Milanese fabric is superior to
tricot in smoothness, elasticity, regularity of structure, split and tear resistance.
3. SIMPLEX KNIT fabric is made of fine yarn and is relatively dense and thick. It is a
small part of warp knit production. Simplex fabric is used to make gloves, handbags,
and sportswear and slip covers.
4. RASCHEL KNIT is done with heavy yarns and has an intricate lace-like pattern. It
makes varieties of products like veiling, laces, power nets and carpets etc.
5. KETTEN RASCHEL KNIT is also known as the chain raschel. The fabric is finer, has a
better hand, superior elasticity and cover.
6. CROCHET KNIT is hand knit crochet. It is made when thread used chains upon itself
and cross links are formed with previously formed chain to generate fabric. This
construction is used in a wide variety of fabrics ranging from nets and laces to
bedspreads and carpets.

Fabric Type Stretch-ability

Baby Rib Excellent
2X1 Rib Excellent
Loop Terry Excellent
Fleece Poor
Interlock Poor
Thermal Waffle Excellent
Fine Jersey Good
Melange Jersey Good
Spandex Jersey Good
Thick Knit Jersey Good
Sheer Jersey Very Good
Stretch-ability of common Knitted fabrics
 Fabric – Non-Woven Fabric

NON WOVEN FABRIC (Bonded or Laminated) is a fabric like material made from long fibers, bonded
together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile industry to
denote fabrics, such as felt which are neither woven nor knitted. Non woven fabric materials typically lack
strength unless reinforced by a backing. Non woven are typically made by putting small fibers together in
the form of a sheet or web and then binding them either mechanically with an adhesive or thermally by
applying binder.

Structure of Non woven material

Common uses of Non Woven fabrics

Industry End uses
Agriculture Seed strip, green house cover etc.
Apparel Interfacing, fusible, bra padding, gloves, shoulder pads etc.
Automotive Battery separator, Carpet backing, insulation etc.
Civil Engineering Road covering, landfill under liner etc.
Construction Roofing and tile industry, insulation etc.
Home Furnishing Quilt, mattress, window shade etc.
Household Wipes, glove liner, vacuum cleaner bag, dust cloth, placement
Industrial Filter, abrasive, cable insulation, lab coat etc.
Healthcare Surgical gown, bandage, dental bib, headrest, bedding under pad etc.
Personal care Diaper, sanitary napkin, cosmetic applicator etc.
Miscellaneous Mailing envelop liner, kites etc.
 Fabrics – Fabric Manufacturing

Fabric manufacturing

Preparatory process - making of Yarn

Weaving or Knitting process (ascending order)

 Fabrics – Fabric Processing and Manufacturing

Finishing process of Textiles

Aesthatic-Improved Appearance Functional-Improved Performance

Calendering Antiseptic
Falling Antistatic
Mercerization Crease Resistant
Napping and Sueding Durable press
Plisse Flame resistant
Shearing Mothproofed
Softening Shrinkage control
Stiffning Soil release, waterproof, stain resistant
Oven Wrinkle free
Various fabric processes affecting textile finished

Stages of dyeing Features and advantages Limitations and disadvantages Typical dyed fabrics

Most costly dyeing method; longer lead

Stock and top Fabrics are soft heather like color; Cheviot, covert,
time; high wastage of material until final
dyed highest level of penetration Melton, tweed
finishing of fabric

Second most costly dyeing method; long Gingham, brocade,

Used to make fabrics with stripes,
Yarn dyed lead time but still shorter than stock dyed jacquard knits,
plaids and multi colored patterns
fabric chambray

Least costly dyeing process;

Broadcloth, satin,
Piece dyed adaptable to most knitted or Only solid color can be produced
corduroy, drill, canvas
woven fabrics; shorter lead times

Closest to fashion season; Woven shirts, t- shirts,

High wastage of garment due to wear and
Garment dyed shortest lead times; elimination skirts, shorts, sweaters,
tear during dyeing process
of raw material wastage hosiery

Comparison of dyeing in various stages

 Fabric – Fabric Characteristics and Properties

Natural Man Made/ Cellulosic Man Made/Non Cellulosic

Properties
Cotton Flax Wool Silk Acetate Viscose/Rayon Acrylic Nylon Polyester Spandex

Abrasion Resistance Good Fair Fair Fair Poor Fair Fair Excellent Good Good
Absorbency 8.50% 12% 13.50% 11% 6.50% 11% 1.50% 2.8-4.8% 0.40% 15%
Flexibility Fair Poor Good Excellent Excellent Good Good Good Fair Good
% Elongation at
Break 3.0-10 3 20-40 20 25-45 15-30 35-45 16-75 19-55 400-700
% Recovery 75 65 99 90 48-65 95 92 82-100 81 99
Environment
Mildew Resistance Poor Fair Good Good Excellent Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent
Renovation(Wash / W or
Dryclean) DC W or DC DC W or DC DC W or DC W or DC W or DC W or DC W or DC
Safe Ironing Limit (F) 400 450 300 300 325 350 300 350 325 300
Sunlight Resistance Fair Good Good Poor Good Fair Excellent Poor Good Fair
Handfeel Good Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Good Fair Fair Poor
Pilling Resistance Good Good Fair Good Good Good Fair Poor Very Poor Excellent
Resiliency Poor Poor Good Fair Fair Poor Good Good Excellent Excellent
Specific Gravity 1.54 1.52 1.32 1.3 1.32 1.48-1.54 1.14-1.19 1.14 1.38 1.21
Static Resistance Good Good Fair Fair Fair Good Poor Poor Very Poor Excellent
Very
Dry Strengh Good Excellent Poor Good Poor Poor-Good Fair Excellent Excellent Poor
Strengh Loss when
wet 10% 10% 20% 15% 30% 30-50% 20% 10% 0 0

Thermoplastic No No No No Yes No No Yes Yes Yes

Properties of major textile fibers and fabrics
 Fabric – Common Construction & Conversion

SOME IMPORTANT CONVERSIONS

Meter to yard X 1.0936 yards
Yard to meter X 0.9144 meter
Inch to centimeter X 2.54 centimeter
Yard to inches X 36 inch
Square yard to square meter X 0.836 sq. meter
Square meter to square yard X 1.196 sq. yards
Grams per Square Meter (GSM) to Grams per meter (GM/MTR)
For 44” _GSM X 1.117 = _ GM/MTR
For 58” _ GSM X 1.473 = _ GM/MTR
For 60” _ GSM X 1.524 = _ GM/MTR
Grams per Square Meter (GSM) to Grams per Yards (GM/YDS)
For 44” _GSM X 1.022 = _GM/YDS
For 58” _ GSM X 1.347 = _GM/YDS
For 60” _ GSM X 1.393 = _GM/YDS

Common construction of Woven Fabrics

Fabric Common Construction

Corduroy 16X20 / 44X134; 60/2X30 / 73X288 42/2X20 / 50X183

Denim 42/2X16 / 60X49 8X14 / 79X49 10X12 / 61X40

Drill 16X16 / 70X48 20X20 / 88X40

40/2X42/2 /
Gabardine 136X53 44/2X44/2 / 132X63

Georgette 42X20 / 48X40 40X40 / 65X55 32X20 / 80X122

16/2X16/2 /
Oxford 40/2X30/2 / 40X40 30/2X30/2 / 50X40 45X45
80X80
Pique Voile 40X40 / 107X64 40X40 / 86X54 50X50 / 100X66 /105X90
40X40
Poplin 30X40 / 90X60 44/2X20 / 90X50 20X20 / 90X50 /120X66

Satin 40/2X30/2 / 40X40 40X40 / 93X59

Construction explanation

For example - Drill construction of 16 X 16 / 70 X 48 means

16 (WARP - yarn count) X 16 (WEFT - YARN COUNT)

70 (Number of warp threads in an inch) X 48 (Number of weft threads in an inch)

 Fabric – Common Terms of Fabrics

Common Terms in Woven or Knitted Fabrics

Dips are fabric or yarn when they are immersed in dye.
Directional Print is a fabric printed with a design that has an obvious direction to it,
often a motif that has a definite “up” or “down.” Fabric with such directional prints is
cut one way keeping one directional print in a garment.
Grain refers to the way threads are arranged in a piece of fabric.
Greige or Grey fabric is an unfinished raw fabric before dyeing or finishing process,
just removed from knitting machine or a loom.
Fabric Selvedge/Selvage is derived from SELF-EDGE is the narrow tightly woven band
on either edge of the fabric, parallel to the warp so that fabric will not fray or ravel.
Shade batching is a process of selecting batches of fabric into homogeneous shade
lots to obtain consistent color continuity in garment making.
Shrinkage is the term used for constriction of fabric in length or widthwise when first
washed, fabric shrinks to some degree until third wash. Raw fabric can be Sanforized
to lessen shrinkage in garment form.
Fabric weight is a term when fabric is graded by its weight per yard of fabric called as
Oz. OZ is an abbreviation for ounces. Denim is weighed in oz. per square yard. Knit
fabrics are weighed in GSM (grams per square meter).

Basic difference between FULLY FASHIONED and CUT & SEW knits
Fully Fashioned Knits are made from panels that are shaped during the process of
knitting after which they are sewn together. Fully-fashioned knits are used for high
quality knits. Pullovers and Sweater are fully fashioned knits.
Cut & Sew Knits are made of flat panels which are cut from pre-knit fabric which are
sewn together in the end. The seams in these knit fabrics tend to be bulkier than the
ones in full-fashioned knits. T shirts, sweat shirts and baby suits are examples of cut
and sew knits.

Warp knits vs. weft knits

Warp knits,
Warp knits have a flat, smooth surface.
Have little or no vertical stretch and varying degrees of crosswise stretch.
Warp knits are run-resistant and don’t ravel.
Weft knits
Weft knits have moderate to great amounts of crosswise stretch and some
lengthwise stretch.
In most weft knits, the edges may curl.
If a stitch in a weft knit is broken, the fabric will tend to run, but a weft knit ravels
only from the yarn end knitted last.

Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Advantages: Stretchable, absorbent, light in weight, figure hugging yet comfortable
and wrinkle resistant
Disadvantages: It shrinks, some knitted fabrics lose their shape and sag, if one of the
loops of a knitted garment breaks, and a hole is made which starts a run.

Common knitted structures

Single jersey, Double jersey, Rib, Broad rib, Simple rib, Tubular, Half milano, Full
milano, Half cardigan, Full cardigan, Links, Skip stitch, Mesh, Cable, Jacquard, Intarsia,
Racked stitch