Life sciences Leaflets 19:788 792, 2011.

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Published on: 1
st
September 2011
DI FFERENT SHADES DEVELOPED ON COTTON YARN
FROM MORI NDA TI NCTORI A Roxb.
A.R. PATEL
DEPARTMENT OF BI OSCI ENCES,
VEER NARMAD SOUTH GUJ RAT UNI VERSI TY, SURAT
anilapatel15@yahoo.com
ABSTRACT:
Cotton yarn dyed with the dry wood of Morinda tinctoria. Mordent was used as
Alum.CuSO
4
.FeSO
4
and Myrobalan. Mordanting methods was adopted as Premordanting.
Shades were obtained pink, dull pink and bright khakhi. Dyed specimens were tested for four
fastness test. Observed good to very good rubbing and washing fastness, moderate to fair light
fastness whereas perspiration fastness was poor to fair.
KEY WORDS: Shade, cotton yarn and Morinda tinctoria.
I NTRODUCTI ON:
During 1940 year people of Gujarat were obtained shades as black, red, yellow, green, blue,
violate, red etc, from different part of the plant (Bambhadai, 1940) Morinda tinctoria is woody
tree found in forest area of Gujarat, produces beautiful fragment white flowers and edible fruit.
Fruits are black when ripe. Morinda sp. has Morindone colouring components (S.B. Gokhale et
al. 2004.
Tiwari et al. (2001) had tried the root of Morinda citrifolia to dye cotton with mordant like
SnCl
4,
alum,

CuSO4
,
SnCl
2
and K
2
Cr
2
O
7.
They shades were obtained peach, purple, golden
brown, dull yellow and dark brown. They fastness were observed good to excellent for washing
and perspiration whereas very good rubbing fastness. Work lacks light fastness test.
Bhuyan and Saikia (2004) had tried the root of Morinda angustifolia with alone as well as along
with mordant as CuSO
4,
K
2
Cr
2
O
7
and SnCl
2.
they dyed cotton, silk and wool with each mordant
and none of mordant. They shades were obtained pink-brown, brown, pink and golden brown.
Work lacks every fastness test.
Tiwari and Vankar (2001) had tried the root of Morinda citrifolia to dye cotton using mordant as
SnCl
4.
they adopted microwave dyeing and Sonicator dyeing method. They shades were observed
very deep reddish brown. They had tested fastness test. They observed similar fastness properties
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as very good washing, rubbing and perspiration fastness in both cases. Work lacks light fastness
test.
The present investigation has been emphasized to develop a process for the extraction of
colouring materials from dry wood of Morinda tinctoria (Rubiaceae) by solvent extraction
method. Studied application and fastness of dyed cotton yarn.
MATERI ALS AND METHODS:
Material: Cotton yarn 72 hanks were used as textile material. Fresh leaves extract of Antigonon
leptopus was used as dyestuff.
Mordant: Vegetable mordant is Myrobalan and Mineral mordant are used as Alum, CuSO
4
,
FeSO
4
and K
2
Cr
2
O
7.

Experimental method
Extraction of the dye: Aqueous extract were prepared from fresh leaves of Antigonon leptopus
was weighed and equal amount as that of textile material was taken. It was ground well and
mixed with water. pH was adjusted nearly 8 to 9 for the best result. This is achieved by adding
Na
2
CO
3.
The ratio of textile material to dye material was maintained at 1:1 (w/w).
Pretreatment of cotton yarn:
Wetting oil (20g/l) used as castor oil. Yarn was soaked in this solution for 24 hours, then
squeezed well and remove natural colorants water, dust and uncellulosic particles. Then the yarn
was boiled in 2g/l solution of sodium bicarbonate for 2 hours. The pH of washing bath was nine.
Yarn was thoroughly washed and dried in sunlight.
Mordanting:
Pre mordanting: Using mordant before the dyeing is known as Premordanting. All specimens
have pre mordanting process.
Dyeing: Pre-mordanted cotton yarn entered in dye bath at 60
o
C temperature, gradually increased
to 99
o
C for 30min.with continuous stirring. Dyeing pH was adjusted at 8 to 8.5 by Na
2
CO
3.
Remove the dyed specimen from a dye bath, dry it in shade. Aeration deepens the colour. Yarn is
than washed with water followed by soap solution at 90
o
C for 15 min. to remove unfixed dye as
well as hydrolyzed dye. Fabric was finally washed with water and dried in sunlight.
Electrolytes and pH:
NaCl was used as electrolyte at the concentration of 20 gm/liter. The quantity of twenty gram
was added in two equal installments. First in the beginning and excess amount added after half
period of dyeing. NaCl was used in four specimens only.
NaHCO
3,
Na
2
CO
3
were used for pH adjustment. They were used in eight specimens.
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Fastness Test: Rubbing fastness test of the dyed fabric was measured using Crock meter
(AATCC, 1961). Washing fastness test of the dyed fabric was measured using Launder-O-meter
(Trotman, 1970) (b).The Perspiration fastness of the given fabric was measured using
Perspirometer (Trotman, 1975). Light fastness test is carried out in fade-o-meter (Trotman, 1970)
(c).
Assessed grade of Fastness (Trotman, 1970): Cc Grade: After completing the test, the tested
sample and the control dyed specimen were kept side by side. Both the specimens than were
compared with Cc grey scales. Visual assessment was made as to the fading of colour with
reference to the control and standard grey scale. Cs Grade: After completing the test these
samples were also compared with respective Cs grey scales to test the colour staining as above
(Table: 3).
RESULTS AND DI SCUSSI ON:
The present work includes the dry root Morinda tinctoria tried to dye cotton yarn alone as
well as along with mordant like alum, myrobalan, FeSO
4
and CuSO
4.
Shades obtained were
pink with none of mordant, also with Alum and FeSO
4
mordant. dull pink shade obtained with
CuSO
4 .
bright khakhi shade developed with myrobalan(Table: 1).
Fastness is increases in Cc (colour change) in compared to Cs (colour stain) in Rubbing and
Washing fastness. Fastness of dry rubbing is increases in compared to wet rubbing. Very good
to excellent fastness observed in (Cc) dry Rubbing fastness. Good to excellent fastness
observed in (Cs) dry Rubbing fastness. Observed verygood fastness in (Cc) Wet rubbing
fastness mostly. Observed good to excellent in Cs Wet rubbing fastness. Good to verygood
(Cc) and fair to excellent (Cs) washing fastness. Acidic perspiration fastness observed poor to
fair whereas alkaline perspiration fastness observed fair to good. Light fastness observed
moderate to good. Fastness was increases in Alum and FeSO
4
mordant in compared to other
mordant. Separate mordanting increases fastness in compared to pre mordanting as well as
electrolyte NaCl is increases fastness than NH
4
Cl (Table: 2).
Fastness can improve by using the inorganic substance (Anila et al. 2006).
CONCLUSI ON:
Some of the herbal dyes were found to be monogenetic i.e. producing single shade with different
mordants such as Morinda tinctoria.
It is interesting to know that there is a great potentiality in developing herbs as source of textile
dye but it would require great effort to improve the fastness characters of several dyes to bring
them in to commercial exploitation.
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REFERENCES:
Bambhadai Gokuldas Khimaji(1940): Vanspatishrushti (in Gujarati). Navjeevan Press,
Ahmedabad.
Tiwari Vandana, Ghaisas arti and Vankar padma S.( 2001): Improved dyeing of hosiery material
and cotton fabric by sonicator with Al root bark. Asian Textile J ournal vol. XLVIII (10)
p.111.
Bhuyan R. and Saikia D.C.( 2004): Natural dyes: Present scenario in North East India.
Colourage LI (5),p.27.
Tiwari vandana and Vankar Padma S.( 2001): Ecofriendly microwave and sonicator dyeing with
natural dyes for hosiery material. Asian Textile J ournal vol.XLVIII(8) p.82.
S.B.Gokhale, A.U.Tatiya, S.R.Bakliwal and R.A.Fursule(2004): Natural dye yielding plants in
India, vol.3(4)p.228,Natural Product Radiance.
Anila patel, M.N.Reddy & M.H.Parabia(2006): Improvement of perspiration fastness of some
herbal dyes, vol. 53(4) p. 52, Colourage.
The American Association colour and chemist (AATCC) Technical Manual, p.8. 1961
Trotmen, E.R.( 1970 c): Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 4
th
ed., London.
p.590.
Trotmen, E.R. 1970 b): Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 4
th
ed., London.
p.596,597.
Trotmen, E.R.: Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers, 5
th
ed., Charles Griffin and
Company LTD, London and High wycombe p. 626, 1975




















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Table 1: Morinda tinctoria: Colour (Shades)
Species Textile
material
Used
part
Mordant Colour Spe.
No.
Morinda
tinctoria
Cotton yarn Dry
Wood
Nil Pink 1
Alum Pink 2
Alum, NH
4
Cl Pink 3
FeSO
4
Pink 4
CuSO
4
Dull pink 5
Myrobalan Bright khakhi 6
Myrobalan,
NH
4
Cl
Khakhi 7
Myrobalan,
Alum
Khakhi 8

Table 2: Morinda tinctoria: Fastness

Rubbing Washing Perspiration Light Spe.
No. Dry Wet Acidic

Alkaline
Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc Cs Cc
4 3 4 2-3 3-4 2-3 1 1 1-2 1-2 3 1
4-5 3-4 4 3 4 3 1 1 1-2 1-2 3-4 2
4 3-4 4 3 3-4 3 1 1-2 1 1 4 3
4-5 5 4 4-5 4 4-5 2 1-2 2-3 2-3 4 4
4 4 4 3 4 3-4 1 1-2 2 2 3-4 5
4 3 4 3 3-4 3 1 1-2 1-2 1-2 4 6
4 3 3-4 3 3-4 3 1-2 1 1-2 1-2 4 7
4 3-4 3-4 4 3-4 4 2 1-2 2-3 2-3 5 8

Table 3:Gradation of Rubbing, Washing &Perspiration Fastness
Observation of tested
White material
Observation of
tested
Dyed material
Grade
No.
Qualitative
Assessment
No stain No lighter 5 Excellent
Slight stain Slight lighter 4 Very good
Moderate stain Moderate lighter 3 Good
Distinct stain Distinct lighter 2 Fair
Very much stain Very much
lighter
1 Poor