INCE

establishment

the

firm

of

50

our

the

of

ladies

years

Chicago

and

environs,

ago,

I fc^Ji^

'

II

as

well

mail
as

the

desired

most

show

to

We

of

appreciation

our

of

One

us

patronage.

generous

hardest

task

has

this

welcome

been

After

have

last

at

of

tions,
proposi-

decided

the

free

"The

of

Parisian

Ladies'

enables

which

make

and

make

designs,

herself

for

her

cut

for

professional

Suits,

her

Outer

for

family,
or

Waists,

purposes.

patterns,

own

or

take

to

one

every

fit

bution
distri-

upon

System,"

measurements,

able
suita

all.

to

merits

customers

our

long

find

to

many

we

Teuloring

the

into

entering

to

useful

and

have

fact.

our

offering

shown

have

customers,

our

Dresses,
or

Garment,

in

accordance

with

the

any

prevailing

styles.

It

is

invaluable

and

that

hope

sincere
our

book

this

will

and

household,

in

be

come
wel-

that

it

every

will

be
a

guide

and

boon

to

the

great

of
masses

our

patrons.

The

Excelsior

Dry

Goods

Company.

PARISIAN
LADIES'

SYSTEM

TAILORING
or
fi

Cutting, Fitting and

Designing,Pattern

Making

Waists, Skirts, Dresses, Suits

All

And

MEANS

FOR

OF

EDUCATION

SELF

AND

DOMESTIC

AND

INSTRUCTION

EDUCATIONAL

SCHOOLS

Garments

Outer

SCIENCE

IN

GUIDE
TRADE

INSTITUTIONS

ith

Over

100

Explanatory Drawings

Charts

22x28

inches

Instruction

of
for

in

Text,

Full

Size

ZEISLER

Copyrighted

1917

by

A.

Patterns

Professional

".
Z.

includingFour

Z.

Zeisler

and

Designers

Supplementary
Grading

^\ ^
o

%""

Contents
Page

Page

Testimonials

Charts

Tlu' iiieasurenients

How

""

The

.')

The

figure

with

high
27

ligure with

sloping

ments
measure-

y\.

28

slender

The

,")

measurements

on

2(1

....

shoulders

ol" lengtliand

talve tlie

to

The

full chest

flat back

shoulders

width
Remarks

figure with

their

and

order
Measurements

The
and

and

(Continued)

Figs. 1

measurements;

Bddy

V.

figure

.short built

Cutting

of

lining

29

...

ligure

and

material

30
31

(i

Around

the bust

(i

haek

of

Lengtli of sides
Around
Size

....

fi

....

....

(i

llie waist

of

arniliole

of chest

7
7

Lengtli

iif front

Length

of slujuhler

Around

the neck

IX.

The

35

fundamental
of

the

pattern

designing

and

liatternmaking

38

....

X.

'file shirtwaist

in its different

forms

S
.

XT.

S
S
.

XII.

Collar

46

...

Pockets

50

XIII.

Culls

XIV.

'file cutting of

and

sleeves

50

....

...

scale

of

scale

of

width

circular

skirt
52

pattern

'.I

the

construction

arm

the

38

....

scales

length
Preparing

changes

the

....

of

Preparing our
Preparing

34
in

fashions

Length of underarm
II.

Possible

basis

....

and

upper

sleeve

....

ol' front

32

....

....

YITI.

...

Height

under

and

upper

Renieasuring the

....

....

Circumference

the

sleeve

under

...

Heiglit of shoulder
Around
tlie liips
Width

Constructing

....

Lenglli of l)ark
Widlli

VH.

XV.

'fhe

cutting of the gored and

])leated skirt

50

....

III.

designing of the

"J'he

waist
IV.

Remarks

fundamental

seamed

der
shoul-

front

in

and
CI

,\rraiiging the
pattern for
outer
suits, .jacketsand

measures

64

garments
22
XVIII.

the

forward

pattern
ligures
ligure

I.

figure

bent

Scales

III. and

XIX.

2.'!
21

XX.

I,II, III, IV, folded

Full

of

for

cloaks

'file cutting of capes

from
fundamental
pattern
For

06

at end

length and

the
.

82

])rofe;;sional
designers:
"The

sized fundamental
IV.

collars

suits and

23

2.^

....

cutting of

tailored

back

broad

flat chest

II.

bent

ligure with

Tables

The

normal

'''he backward

and

XVII.

length
of

to

back

2(1

21

for changed

The

pattern

measures

the

the

Changing

Id

fundamental

effect

width

Adaption
The

iialtern

the

Renieasuring
of

XVI.

remeasiuing

Remeasiuing
of

pattern

hefoi-e

the

mental
funda-

Grading"

85

....

of book:

width, "Original size."

pattern of ba.sciueand

"Grading" for Professional

sleeves.

Designcr.s.

i\\

,\^

\^
JAN 10 tyi8
\,\n

Preface
VERY

ambition

woman's
her

as

The

neighbor.
fit of

correct

the

be

is to

of

secret

perfectly gowned

as

in

the

figure of

the

lies

gowning

correct

the

to

garment

least

at

individual

wearer.

We
to

know

but

season,

have

this,
in

"Old

of

Worn
basis

of

Out
of

of

which
of

mistake

"

or

the

memory

soon

tailors

attempting

the

to

slim

waste

to

end

they

of

years

with

book

to

careful

serve

In

2)

in

with

vary

fail

Hence

style

1)

chosen

give

seldom

of

and

they

are

sary
neces-

and

patrons,

perfect fitting,

The

such

author,

for

years

At

course.

it

well

figures

"A

figures

pattern

this

time

same

its

plain, simple

INSTRUCTOR"

considerations

important

fundamentally

are

exactly

are

and

York

planned

its

SELF

long

Nev^f

fitting clothes.
three

are

all

as

the

and

for

through
in

as

expressions,

there

That

demand

designer
of all descriptions, has

desire

has

author

sought

PATTERN,
be

can

It is certain
who

actual

As

alike.

3)

similar.

That

styles

seasons.

the

that

make

making

in

widespread

Designing.

recommend

human

two

FUNDAMENTAL
and

to

designing

the

been

technical

who

mind:

no

for

all

of

pattern

That

"taking

w^ork,

their

of

are

the

to

fashion,

labor

patience

which

apparel

basis

as

cannot

bear

little

their

this

in

and

and
foreign countries,
wholesale
houses
largest

dressmakers

home

make

is

of

figures
the

has

Pattern

w^earing

omission

language

is needed

in

the

ladies'

in

cutter

there

in

course

of

in

all figures, without

for

pattern

time

garments

years

experience

one

figures

consequence

incorrectness

out

stock

chic.

several

rational

of

in order
original pattern
figures of their patrons.

wear

out

pupils with

the

their

only

also

measurements

sets

in

all that

the

to

jumble.

one

stout

of

not

turn

and

For
some

tions
varia-

still cling

body

numerous

impossibility of fitting individual

comfortable

to

and

use

of

or

of

graduate

that

them

alterations, but

to

to

which

their

dressmakers

reason

convinces

soon

the

style according

however,

makes

and

"little letting out"

compelled
in

"

number

and

hand,

in

They

it conform

trial

make

instructions

our

of

Academies,

patterns

discrimination.

in,

underlying principle is
and
after
"Basque,
^ve

desired

any

season

the

so-called

execute

System"

their

Some
sad

to

Cutting

our

stereotyped

mind,

able

are

the

from

frequently

vogue.

Many
the

"

that

mind

in

Pattern

we

styles change

the

bear

must

we

"Fundamental

the

that

made

therefore,

instruction

dressmaking

in
as

to

and

by

explain first, the making

of
secondly, all changes

modification

that

this

book

dressmaking
courses,
profession, and
a

of

this

will

be

to

also

pattern.
a

boon

thousands
to

of
form

the

A.

to

who

home

Z.

those
have

maker.
dress-

Zeisler.

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

Testimonials
From
To

Louis

Grancr

"\vhoni it may

Co.. Cloaks, Mantles, Etc., 305

concern

I consider
ladies

"

the

makiufi'their

Canal

St.. New

York,

N. Y.

cutting system

of Mr.

A.

Z. Zeisler

useful

practical ami

as

garments.

own

LOUIS

to

GRANER.

Ji/^^.

-^^^.^

From

L.

Adler,

Manufacturer

of

Furs,

39 St. Marks

Place,
York, N. Y.

NcAv
Mr.

To

At

A. Z. Zeisler

your

full j'

testifythat
the

Therefore

relations,
with

tlius made

your

being

tried

I, as well

and

as

fit

actly
ex-

fir.st.

on

Inisiness

my

thoroughly

are

ing
mak-

customers,

my

garments

without

cheer-

been

3'ou have

i^atterns for
that

request I herewith

pleased

system.

Respectfully,

^,^.

Mr.

Z.

A.

Zeisler, Practical

Professor

medal

your

went

we

of

the

you

as

Sy.stem.

so
plain
evening lessons, we

and

dresses
all that
All

pupils

aided

through,

Tailor

method

ladies'

teacher.

our

and

of which

of your

instructive

that

evening

beg

the

and

grade

to

make

them

most

all kinds

hand

and

your

of

with
here-

you

sineerest

our

valuable

most

lucid

tion
explanafound

have

to

but

teen
for four-

patterns in the

accurately, in

way

passing
sur-

heretofore.

known
we

to

to

congratulate ourselves
after attending your
course

fully enabled

branch, and

remember

ever

unerring guidance

your

Ave

now

highest respect

our

shall

AVe

may

are

cloak

was

by

Well

of

leave

pupils,beg

of your

mark

inadequate

an

as

appreciationof
course

luulersigned,a committee

The
a

Clevelaiul, Ohio.

Designer,

present in Cleveland.

At
Dear

L. ADLER.

to otTer

in the

name

and

as

the

true

sentiment

of

course.

Very Respectfidly,
THE
Adolf

COMMITTEE.

Barber, J. Goodman,

C. Goodman.

the

PARISIAN

LADIES-

SYSTEM

TAILORING

Charts
(At

of

end

volume.)

TABLE

The
The
a

scales

13-inch

scales

half

of

30-incIi

divided

length
back

of

and

Length

of

of

length

The
from

Scales

around

Full Sized
full

sleeves,

with

construction

86
scale

the

of

width
how

they

Professional

figure

of

down

30, and

to

The

one.

grading

proper

36

figure
by

showing

Sleeves

of

and

basque

and

measurements

made.

are

on

85)

page

sleeves, in

under

Table

and

full, from

tabulation

of

all

36
the

measurements.

necessary

from

length

48, giving

to

up

Basque

III

and

upper

(24-inch

Designers

TABLE

grading

equal parts

4S-inch

to

pattern

and

(See explanation

The

of

fundamental

For

(IS)

eighteen

II

figure

lines,showing

parts from

equal

bust.

Pattern

all

(16)

measurement)

Fundamental

sized

sixteen

into

TABLE
A

Size

Original

in

inches.

divided

(1.5-ineli lialf

measurement)

Width
into

ITJ

to

width

the

down
chart

to

of
a

giving

construction

of

IV

front,

30,
all
the

and

back,
up

to

required
seamed

and
a

side
48

bust

parts

made

and

from

full.
companied
ac-

measure,

measurements,

front

in

also
loose

Around
Length
Width

Length
Around
*

Record

the
Bust.
of
Back.
of
Back,
of
Sides.
the
Waist,
One-half

Size

Height
Around
Width
10.
of

all

Measurements

Height

of

Armhole.
of
Shoulder,
tlie Hips.
of Chest.
of
Front.

Marked

(*).

11.
li;.

*13.
14.

of
Front.
of
Slioulder.
tlie
Necli.
Around
of Under
Arm.
Lengtii
Circumference
of
Arm.

Length
Lengtii

PARISIAN

LADIES'

The

TAILORING

Measurements

and

SYSTEM

Their

Order

(See Fig. 1"2)

The

measurements

knowledge
by their

means

are

build

of the

are

enabled

to

we

Their

important.

very

of the

body

make

chief

for whioh

tlie

is to

purpose

garment

pattern correctly and

our

give

ough
thor-

is to be made,

and

for

easily

the

model.
The

diagrams. Fig
be taken.

to

are

In the

following

2.
*3.

the

Length

of

to

in

bust
back

of sides
the

waist

6.

Size

7.

Height

the

taking

and

width

Length of
Length of
Height of

7.

All

also

11.

of shoulder

to

duce
pro-

need

we

Length
Length

12.

the

of front
of shoulder

Around

*9.

Width

of chest

14.

Length

10.

Height

of front

15.

Circumference

the

of

and

Around

the

neck

of inider

arm

of

arm

Width

2)

"

notice

we

''lo.

hips

Length

Measurements

that

all

our

measurements

of

Length

are

Are:

10.

Height

of front

12.

Length

sides

11.

Length

of front

IL

Length

recorded

in full.

of shoulder
of luider

arm

shoulder
measurements

15.

*1.

Around
Width

of

In

width

the

be

Circumference

of

altho

arm,

length

not

measure

in full.

recorded

*3.

to

are

The

the

garments,

ments
measure-

able

*8.

measurements

Size of armhole.

are

outer

the
be

back

length

6.
ments

order

measurements.

The

4.

all

of armhole

(See Fig.
In

what

order.

Measurements

length

in

and

way

waists, suits,skirts, and

of back

Around

in which

practice and experience we will

correspond to these given measurements.

some

measurements

Around

Length

*5.

of

making

fifteen

Width

4.

2, show

"

style of garment

any

*1.

After

bust

back

Measurements

of

Width

Are:

*5.

Around

the

waist

*9.

Width

*8.

Around

the

hips

'^IS.

Around

only

measurements

one-half

of

the

of chest
the

neck

taken

measurements

are

recorded.

Remarks
In
to

order.

oi'der

take
This
All

length

not

to

omit

strip of paper
Avill be of great
a

of the

of back

any

on

Measurements
and

measurements

numbered

help

examples given

to

and
the

marked

to

avoid

with

the

able
mistakes, it is advis15

measurements

36

bust

in

beginner.

in this book

are

based

upon

figure with

of 15 inches.

Figs. 1 2 show that in taking the

measuring, namely:
"

measurements

we

begin

from

the

back

the model,

*1.
2.

*3.

Around

Length
Width
"Record

the bust

4.

of back

*5.

Length
Around

of sides
the

waist

of back
One-half

of

all

Measurements

Marked

(*).

6.

Size

7.

Height

of

arm

hole

of shoulder

of

PARISIAN

Tliis done,
and

measure

from

proceed

we

SYSTEM

TAILORING

LADIES'

front

the

of

the

in

shown

tigure,as

Fig.

"

Length
Length

11.

*8.
*9.

Around
Width

of

the liips
chest

12.

10.

Height

of front

*13.

How

front

14.

of

shoulder

15.

Around

under

arm

of

Circumference

arm

neck

the

the Measurements

Take

to

Length of

of

(See Fig. 1"2)

All
36-inch

the

given

measurements

th"'

around
in this

book

in

based

are

the

on

column

length

of

of

those

are

of

back

regular

All

inches.

15

trations
illus-

model.

same

the Bust

Around

left

to the

the

figure, with

bust

This
the

Around
18

bust,

One-half

of tin- bust

ure.
meas-

Length

below

Record

onlv

this

is

15

inches

to

line,

26

for

inches
from

If

neck

bone

to

this

take

to

opposite

3.

the

jacket

or

for

shown

full, as

skirt

in the

colunni.

to

the

the

actual

armhole

fashion

in natural

Length of

4.

This

side,

8-i inches.
the

8-1/27/52,
desired lengths,
as

of

all

Measurements

waist

the

down
as

full.
Marked

the

back

with

the

position at

from
arms

sides.

one-half.

Side

measure

record

always according

other,

onlv

is

measurement
to

"

across

"

the

to

neither

measiirement

wide

too

nor

dropped

measure.

this

take

to

narrow

Record

One-half

also.

measurement

in

all three

careful

one

"Record

for

length

of Back

Width

too

back,
of

write

record

62-inches.

of

the

of the skirt.

lie

One-half

along

in full.

this measurement

take

we

inches

51

of

of the

center

down

bone

line, and

waist

the

coat, we
If Ave wish
we

the

Width

the

along

Record

jacket

and

the bottom

three

one-half.

neck

the

of

length

waist

length,

Write

back,

understand

we

back

Length

the

collar.

spine, to

our

the

4.

around

the

the

of

part

Back

of

back, from

follows

as

that

*3.

and

arms,

this measurement

Take

inches.

15/26/51
By

the

inches

of

tlie back

fullest

the

of back,

Length
"Write

six

about

2.

15

around

model,
bust, under

inches.

from

is taken

measurement

the

(*).

shown

taken

line.
to

the
in

from

the

pit
arm-

jackets and skirts

desired
lengths, and

For
the

opposite column

in

LADIES'

PARISIAN

5.
the

Around

Around

One-half

of tlie

the Waist

waist,

inches.

13

TAILORING

W("

SYSTEM

Measurement

take

this

where

Size

f
or

back,

distinctly

only one-half.

armhole,

Armhole

of

Taken

from

the

the

where

as

inches.

around

back

arms

the

socket,

arm

Take
fully,
carejoins the dress.
differentlydeveloped.

sleeve
are

in full.

Record

Height of Shoulder

7.

This

is

as
some
important measurement,
ders.
sloping and some
high shoulBegin at the waist line in the center of
the highest point of the
the back, run
over
shoulder, along the most
developed part of
an

models

Height of shoulder,
inches.

33i

the

most

and

marked,

6.

16

is

ment.
measure-

Record

Size

from

measurement

waistline

the

the

have

bust, down

the

to

waistline

center

in the

front.
Record

8.
*8.

Around
20

the

Around
Tliis

hips,

the Hips
is taken

measure

the

inches.

in full.

from

pronounced

most

7 inches

below

front

the

around

part of the hips, about

waistline.

the

One-half.

Record

Width
*9.

Width

of Chest

Take

of chest,

in

8^ inches.

only one-half.

along
a

most

front

from

downward

armhole

one

inclined

developed part

of the

to the

line

bow

other
the

over

bust.

One-half.

only one-half.

Record

10.

Height
Begin

10.

Height
21

of

front,

inches.

I I.
^
11.

Length of front,
16/26/51

of Front
at the

neck, run
the front

back

to

neck
the

over

the

of

One-half

of

aU

Measurements

to

the

Tliis measurement
of the neck
and

of

in full.

begins
runs

in

down

front
to

For

the

at

the

(*).

in full.

base

waistline.

down
jackets and skirts, measure
required length of these garments.

Marked

of the

center

Front

Record
Record

the base

at

waistline.

Record

Length

bone

shoulder

to the

of Shoulder

Length

12.

Measure

of the

I'l-ouithe

base

the

socket.

to

Ijciigthof shoulder,

12.

SYSTEM

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

arm

prevailing fashions, and could be

shorter
or
longer, as explained later.
in full.

Record

I 3.

Around

the

Around

tlie neck,

64 inches.

Run

the

Neck

tape

around

measure

1 4.

Length

of Under

M"'asuri'
the

Length
8J

of
18

"

under

arm.

one-half.

armpit

fi'oni the

reco^'d

opposite
Record

Pass
Circumference

of

of

till' tape

arm,

the

to

inside

the

ascertained

of

wrist,

measures

column.
in full.

Arm
around

part of the

tin- thickest

ami

arm,

inches.

10

Record

Preparing Our
(See Tables
Since
cori-ect

to

down

botii of the
in

Circumference

down

.ioint then

shown

as

15.

the

Arm

elbow

and

iuchea.

15.

of

base

the

neck.
Record

14.

made

upon

5 inches.

*13.

der
along shoullength depends

neck

This

our

is based

system

IT at

Scales
end

to

of

Volume)

and

length

\ipon

in order

of mi-asuri'mrnts

scales

I"

in full.

a\

design

idth

measurements,

fundamental

we

pattern

for

need
each

model.

length

Our

scale

of

The

scale

of width

is based

depends

(one) 1, the

measurement

upon

2. the

(two)

measurenu'ut

upon

length
around

of back.
the

bust

measure.

In

figure is
bust

previous study

our

15

inches

measurement.

Record

One-half

and

that

With

of

aU

we

18

these

that

saw

inches
in

Mpasiirements

length

recorded

was

mind

the

we

Marked

are

("").

as

ready

of

back

one-half
for

our

of

of the
scale.

regular
around

36
the

.PARISIAN

Take
back

this

into

four

sixteen

the

but

we

inch

if the
a

always

cited

half

of the

recorded

around

as

Cut

those
We

bust

of

paper

lengtliis

15

equal parts, and

whole
length

of

scale

our

of

strip

the

be

divided

of

into

bust

Scale

1st.

one-half

length

width,

do

of

inches.
each

of

these

back

divisions

is divided

into

will

be

longer,

(16) equal parts.

Width

of

forget

not

In

measurement.

one

inch

(1)

inta

three

Fold

measure.

tlu' illustration

In

the

as

length.

sixteen

that

use

we

illustration

our

of

as

the

basis

36

one-

model,

we

wide,

as
exactly one-half
long as the
Then
of
refold
each
equal parts.
of these nine (9) equal parts in half.

fold each
Next
equal parts into three.
have
now
eighteen (IS) equal parts.

forget,

long

as

length of l)ack is shorter, the divisions

longer length of back, the divisions will be

scale

the

tliat

exactly

inches.

18

around

the

preparing

Length

the

Thus

The

In

SYSTEM

in width,

four

into

serve

have

must

Scale

one

paper

that
if

length

of

equal parts.

Kemember
and

The

example

parts, which

(16)

shorter,

In

strip of

Fold

again

TAILORING

paper

-waistline.

the

to

strip of

LADIES'

that

of the

each

size

tinaround

of

of

these

the

tlie bust

is

parts

parts

(1) inch

one

with

vary

the

is always

measure

long,

bust

divided

but

do

not

2d,

that

mea.sure

eighteen (18) equal

into

"^parts.

Remarks

convenience

For

will

3'ou

13

174

to

aro^^nd

inches

the

If
on

size

lengtli and
make

the

thus

pupil

width
scales

Bear

in

"With

scales

the

book

Scales

of

scales

and

length

in

Table

of width

scales

width

of

I, scales
from

15

easily and

24

to

length

rectly,
cor-

from

inclies one-half

the

of

in
of

advantage

length

and

have

we

width

time

wasting

width

both

of

for

should

being
from

Table

scales

our

them

preparing

he

be

I and

for

paste each

in readiness

for

any

needed.

how
be

used

correctly.

when

know

to

figure, should

any

divided

greatest importance

prepared

Table

our

called

scales

of

upon

to

himself.

mind

the

avoid

of

scales

of

it is of the

are

these

designing

the

and

length and
they have

as

(16) parts, and

the

of

strip of cardboard,

figure,and
For

end

of back,

these

copy

separate
of

of

scales,

we

making

the

measurement.

scales

our

the

at

length

bust

These

Df

both

find

in

About

simpl.y that
the

length
our

scale
and

of

width

fundamental

the

of

scale

width
scales
waist

length

always
in

into

hand,

pattern.

we

is

into sixteen
always divided
eighteen (18) equal parts.
are

now

prepared

to

start

The

SYSTEM

TTT
f^

Pattern'

Waist

"Fundamental

TTT

TTT TTT
e

the

of

Designing

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

10

Tl
O

01

II

ol

Fig. 3
SQUARE

TAILORS'

Fig. 3A

TRACING-WHEEL

Fig.

.3 shows

"H-lu'cI. Both

us

mark

same

"

square.

for

square

perpendicular
the

tailoriv

needed

are

"Witli this tailor's

lines

to

each

and

ju-epare

other,
A

drawing

correct

wt'

"

C.

Fig. 3A,

as

on

shown

and

sheet
in

traeingtracing.
of paper

Fig. 4,

and

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

SYSTEM

11

Fig. 4
Reduced

Mark

horizontal

the

One-fourth

to

line

"

vertical

the

and

line A

C.

"

12^

81

17

Fig. 5
Reduced

One-fourth

to

51
Having
begin

we

to

width,

along

in

.5.

8i

Fig.

Using

scale

our

With

mark

the

mark

from

We
with
we

1/16

of width.

and

widtli

scale

with

from

of

width

adding

points

These
of

thus

B,

"

call

we

our

width

of

length

to

the

off

2, 5^, 8^, 14^ times

see

that

of each

forget

not

IS

call

C, and

of

the

that

the

and

length

respective

of

width

of

times
to

part

points.
unit

in

of

Pig. 5,

this

unit

length points.

our

equal parts

19

our

length

points

length

the

of

their

these

the

as

diagram

of

unit

our

unit

scale

our

of

shown

as

one

proceed, according

size

B,

as

other,
scale

our

to

we

part

each

to

respectively 4, 8j, 1^^, 17,

along

of

line

our

off

mark

readily

must

points

of

part

toward

the

perpendicular

horizontal

our

one

measure,
to

our

distance

this

lines

drawn

one
we

measure,

14J

19

of

points
the

these

measurements.

vary

scale, for
parts

are

PARISIAN

12

Next

take

we

illustration, hut
and

point

z.

as

the

sliown

the

TAILORING

11.

measurement

always

beginning- at

LADIES'

exact

in the

Length of front, sixteen (16)

of the

measurement

length point 2,

SYSTEM

lengtliof

this distance

measure

front
A

along

"

inches

of the
C.

in the

model,

Letter

this

illustration. Fig. 5.

Fig. 6

8^

121

17

19
B

14.1

Fig.
and

horizontal

The

beginning,
in

6 shows

making

vertical

lines

drawn

of

numberings
as

the

an

aid

in

fundamental

lines drawn
from

our

the

pattern.

the

width

points parallel to

length points parallelto

length

memorizing

from

and

these

width

jiointsare

dimensions.

They

"

"

B.

necessary
may

only

later be

in the

omitted

In

namely

have

we

certain

added

lines

points

and

to

13

preceding figure,

our

1st.

"

An

(1)

one

from
inch above
z.
a point -]B, drawn
auxiliary line parallel to A
from the point b. Avhich
B, drawn
auxiliary line parallel to A
the auxiliary line previously made, or Ij inches
above
above
z.

An

2d.
is

Fig.

SYSTEM

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

"

inch

Fig. 7
19

12^

8i

51

3d.
bow
on

Point

line from
vertical

the

front

4th.

The

5th.

The

is

one

"

5^

unit

part of

line

and

C, forms

auxiliary line
auxiliary line

from

from

half way

about

ending

front

our

of width

scale

our

point

between

The

2.

Si

14-J-

"

line.

from

point
point

4 to

auxiliary line from

point

17

to

5^ gives us the
point Avhere

back

the

5i

shoulder
19

meets

line.
is

our

line.

The

6th.
or

Avhich

line

shoulder

darts

a.

crossing our

14J indicates

to

to

us

the

height

of

our

dart.

7tli.

The

full

line

extending through

"

the

to

line

is

our

center

back

line.
8th.
one

5|

unit

The

crosses

These

lines.

points

part of

our

c,

unit

one

scale

of

part of the
width, measured

scale

of

width,

respectivelyfrom

and

of

d, one-half

points

wliere

line

lines

8^ and 12i.
points will be

used

in

connection

with

the

formation

of

armhole

14

PARISIAN

Fig.

shows

all the

us

TAILORING

LADIES'

SYSTEM

points formerly explained

with

the

tions
followinp-addi-

Fig. 8
12.1

19

17

5i

8i

m.

14J

At

distance

of

unit

two

placed respectivelyto the

line.
bottom
These
points are
form

thus

line.

length

the

back

of

the

width

the

points

line

dart

14^

line

at

and

intersection of line 4 and

the

the

4, and

begins

at

auxiliary front shoulder

line 5^"17
and

the

and

mark

line, passes
full

the

12^

armholc.

gives the
point 19

From
of

that

curve

This

with

connected

d. to tlie intersection of the

m,

c.

scale

right of

dart.

our

The

through

parts of the

left and

are

down

measure

this

point

line collar cut-out

as

s.

distance

marked

equal
an(l

17

Connect

to

unit

one

with

part of

curve

scale

our

line, to

secure

lines.

in

tance
point s through points f and g, along the center back line, the disi equals the length of liack measurement
to
our
s"
(15 inches
according
figure).
At i we
i meeting the 121- hne
have
i j perpendicular to s
at j.
From
point i, i o is parallelto auxiliary line b.
Point
wliicli passes
with
1 by a curve
o is connected
through r. This curved
From

model

"

"

"

line

represents
Point

of line
of the

center

either

to

both
better

are

front

our

is about

8i.

8-1and

lowest
one

located

balanced.

one

and
From

line'.The

side
about

or

side

waist

unit part of

other

line.

point m
points need
does

not

centrallybetween

scale

our

of width

line

the
not

be

and

distant
is drawn

from
to

exactly measured,

aflfect the

81

m"

correctness

12i

the

side

of the

as

the

section
interthe

about
any

tion
devia-

pattern.

effect of pattern

If
is

In

the

Fig.

we

the

see

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

lines

same

have

we

SYSTEM

in

mentioned

15

former

our

tigureplus

following:

ig-

From
for
line

diminishes
We
to

the

gives
We

front

dart

The
and
the

observe

us

also
line

an

to

at

the

line from

and

line, starting
to

our

at

S|

line half

build

of

auxiliary line b.

to

the

front

the

the
at

corresponding

u.

line

way

out
cut-

our

slioulder
to

4. and

shoulders.
rounded
of

tlie

outs
cut-

side,

line.

front

our

to

lines,

above

the

anatomical

our

also

waist

than

shorter

lines

the

from

lines

circle, in

quarter

in
e.^ctends from

that

correspond

shape

notice

inch

side front

extending downwards
back.

also

in

notice
to

of

to

of the
the

in about

see

we

We
^

of

gradually

line

to

neck.

slight curve

which

point
front

the

1.

the
bottom

bottom

This
armhole

line
will

we

and

line, in

point k, making tlie

next
figure.
explain in our
z

to

crossing lines
gives us

curve,

55

and

12.1-at t

tlie side line for

16

From
to

LADIES'

PARISIAN

till'foot

one-half

of the

straight construction
lialf way

about
to

8^

the

with

line

of

unit

of the

part

and

Hi.
to

curve

d.

we

of

lines

8|

thence

line

scale

line in

between
and

side

back

our

TAILORING

SYSTEM

measure

line

on

width.

From
back

side

From

here

we

follow

This

gives

us

to

our

the

this

point

draw

we

side

back

part

it meets

line, which
the

equal

distance

side

that

curve

connects

tlie back.

From

part of

both

measure

scale

our

of

width

right
and

and

connect

left
both

distance

these

new

one-half

equal

to

found

points

and

unit
with

line.
We
the

side

line

from

note

piece
o

to

also
a

that

correct

this

lines to

in

curve-in
line.

at

the

point

waist

v,

line.

little rounded
We

next

cut-out

extend

the

gives
waist

PARISIAN

fashions

Prevailing
narrow
or

vica versa,

in the
or

wider,

in

as

shall
10

Fig.

we

heavy lines.

in

see

see

In

Our

for

the

next

our

exactly

lines

make

correct, and

be

of the pattern.
we

either

we

the

same

this

notice

figure we

at

side piece is longer at the top and

side
But

In

making
extension

cutting out
their length
Fig.

of

10

we

short

below

the

our

shorter

from

pattern

we

the

to

top

find in

"basque"
waist

former

our

the

line.

in

our

side

be

parts,

particular difference

figure.
and

parts

narrower

have

We

omitted

have

worked

instead

lines.

new

back

our

side

tlie waist

at

will

and
and

wide

front

our

pattern,

that

glance

parts shonld

and

11

line of the side part is shorter

after
in

in

as

following explain

remarks

no

make

we

side

backs
make

17

figure.

Fig.

In

would

way

same

the

or

narrow

fundamental

our

SYSTEM

tlie back

-whether

accordingly

construction

our

dictate

either would

as

structure

In
all

and

wide,

or

TAILORING

LADIES'

at the

find

waist

line,
and

top

that

line, which
and

longer

both

of

these

that
at the

joins our
the

sponding
corre-

waistline.

correspond

actly
ex-

line.

in

lines

heavy

lines

an

illustration

of

the

longer differentlyshaped

PARISIAN

18

From
line

end

diminishing
We

in

From

line

base

along

these

is, the

to

nuist

unit

z, l)oth

of

part

lines.

four

line

of

line

to

point

to

width

secure

to

one,

line to 1. Stretching

make

to

secure

changes

fit.

better

made

are

darts

two

fit,and

better

is described

of

have

constructed

each

side

we

Avidth

on

of

in

line

the

unit

parts of

our

of line

4,

of

scale

of

both

but

darts,

two

marki]ig points

4 to

and

of

width

and

of

darts

wider

no

14^

points

than
togctlie)-

and

points
Now

q.

of

in

and

dart,

one

distance

that

measure

w.

of

luiit parts

two

measure

and

at
at

points

from

width

equal

these

At

with

q.

distance

z.

respectively with

th(^ scale

these

off

4, mark

lines

parts

and

line

dart

meet

connect

of

left

and

right

of

each

construct

four

which

we

one

from

scale

our

remem!)er

parts.
lines

with

with

i of

inch

an

first dart

the

found

we

as

inch

an

it

shapeliness

further

however,

in

see

side

two

of

tlie

following:

Dart

above

bottom

line.

of

line

above

the

bottom

u,

in

in mind

which

is

the

the

The

seeond

dart,

line.

The

the

from

front
dart

second

tin- bottom

second

dart

and

equal

not

Fig. 12 shoM-s the basque waist

ending in line v, and the back

is the
we

sec

line.

have

stated

"fundamental
in the

next

before,
Avaist"

figure how

all

of

the

but

length,
the

single

the

nuist

dai-t in

our

jiattcrns

to

make

tlie necessary

two

side

original

passing through

line

patt"'rii. If, however,

the

of the

We

of width.

is between
are

will.

at

width

the

previous

our

between

cut-outs

together

which

wider

or

in

line

part of

side

one

part of tlu' scale

line

and

we

in
of

case

narrower

exceed

unit

one

of

make
width

the

must
to

identical

in the

do

to

division
can

we

that

not

are

garment.

the

11

front

darts

necessai-y

parts, which

bear

at

was

Fig.

side part and

the

As

Avaist

line

liui' ] of

secure

side cut-out

which

must

width,

corresponding edges

parts and

n,

our

of

r.

figure into

unit

line

"We

must,

we

left of line

means

therefore

first dart,

stretched,

order

scale

than

to

width,

that

connect

the

The
be

of

line, to

bottom

toward

scale

dart.

of

and

(lil unit

are

Now

dart

importance

of

these

the

dart

both

right
by

see

and

measures

IIow

of

one

scale

scale

we

widiii.

instead

parts

more

of

parallel to

connect

Tims

utmost

measure

our

to

one-half

and

of

the

Next

the

one

measure

lines
line

along

one

not

part of

draw

it is of

parts

this

measure

line

unit

one

sewing,

the

will

original single dart, which

our

unit

two

exact

Along

see

we

]ilaee of

together

that

the

z.

in

Now

of

part

than

in

side

two

is shorter

to

second

breaking points.

to

extending

\1.

Fig.

measuring

figures

also

of

division

shown

Fig.

and

line

of the

length

of stout

one,

dart

the

unit

line.

hip

that

the

lines
of

one-half

of

SYSTEM

in

notice

we

cut-out

our

also

eases

of

exact

and

beyond,

find

In
instead

line, l-li,

towards

first to

the

an

front

our

and

TAILORING

LADIES'

based
the

j
on

and
the

basque
changes in

1,

r,

i.

"basque."
is

not

the

sired,
defront

PARISIAN

TAILORING

LADIES-

SYSILM

19

Fig. 12

In

this

fig-urepoint x is taken eqni-distant

B. Now
with
point A and 4 along line A
thread
a
in the
looped for a pencil, as shown
figure by the lines,from x as the pivot point
from

for
the

"

thread

held

with

heavy broken

ark

This

gives a

all future

the
z,

left

Avaist line which

fundamental

value

auxiliary
only in the

waist

line, and

we-

shall

use

in

patterns.

line

inch

construction
now

may

describe

thumb,

u.

be

above
of

omitted

was

the

of

basque

from

our

future

drawings.
Fig. 1.3 shows
explanatory
many

simplifiedpattern

lines

and

lines

that

with
show

deviation from
the originalpattern, omitted.
correctlydrafted, according to previous instrueunder
tions, place a sheet of paper
pattern (pinning pattern and paper
together
to pr event
slipping),and with tracing wheel
(Fig. 3) trace the front, side, and
back
the
three
cut
out
along the heavy lines. Next
lay
separate pieces and
aside the original drawing for future
reference.
When

this

pattern has

been

LADIES'

PARISIAN

20

TAILORING

SYSTEM

Fig. 13

With
we

these

proceed
Remarks

Fig.

14

to

separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore

remeasure
our
pattern.

Before
Fundamental
"

15

the

Remeasuring
Pattern

explain

parts of the

us

how

the

tliree

ferent
dif-

pattern, front, side, and

able to reare
placed before we
according to the fifteen (1.5) body
measurements
previously made,
beginning
with
1 and
measure
ending Avith 1.5.
The
the liips:
8, around
measurements,
of
14, length of arm;
15, circumference
will find in our
later diagrams.
we
arm,

back,

are

measure

find

We

height
length
back

to

of slioulder,
the

these
their

proper

and

shoulder

for

the neck,

we

that

all of tlie other

order
to
7,
measure
10, height of front; 12,

place

must

in Fig. 14
(as shown
those previously made,

remeasuring

in

shoulder;

front

with

measurements

places

13, around

of the

of

"

15),

the
to

putting

parts.

shoulder
enable
the

same

us

of
to

back

the
pare
com-

to

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

Z]

Fie. 14
Around

the Measures

Remeasuring
Li

remeasuring,

pattern,

our

of

-we

lind

*3.

Width

the
of

bust, 18.

back,

6i.

*5.

Around

tlie waist, 13.

*j

Around

the

*9.

Width

12.

Length

of shoulder. 5.

13.

Around

the

of

hips,20.

chest, 8^
neck, 6^.

of Width

siiown

in

Fig.

li

the

results

of

the

(IS inches half

regular 36 bust measure
the
width
of
be
around
to
1,
bust,
namely:
18; 3,
back, 6^; 5, around
measure)
of chest,8J; 12. length of shoulder,5; 13, around
the neck,
the waist, 12|; 9, width
13|. If the model is perfectl.ybuilt we will find these correct ; the slightdifference

width

measurements

which

may

in the

future

occur

in

some

diagrams.

model

with

measurements

may

be

easily corrected,as

we

will show

Remeasuring
"\Yc liave
in

Fig-.14.

The

same

rule

applies

2.

Length

of

back,

4.

Length

of

side,82.

6.

Size of armhole, 16.

7.

Height of shoulder, 33|

Height of front, 21.
Length of front, 16.

10.

the Measurements

explained the remeasurin";

length in Fig. 15.

11.

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

22

15.

to

the

of

SYSTEM

of
the

Length

width

remeasuring

measures

of

our

of

our

measurements

pattern
of

Adaption

of the

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

Pattern

Normal

We

SYSTEM

23

So-called Slightly Changed

to

Figures

be making- a serious
mistake
to assume
is
that is to
tigure
perfectly
built;
normally
every
that every
tigure is built iu exactly the same
say,
portion
pro36 model, given in our
our
as
drawings.
In most
however, we are able to make
slight
cases,
the slight differences that arise
alterations which
correct
we
through the variations in proportions. In such cases
consider
our
figuresperfect in spite of the fact that they
would

that

do

not

come

The

Fig

standard

Forward

shows

16

the

to

up

pattern,
see

that

iu

and

shoulder
that

the

Such

easilybe
seams.

bent

made

back

which

part

with
front

the

shoulder

slight changes
a

be

neck

Fig.

back

the

must

variations
in

shown

model
iu

if

figure. In Fig. 17,

regular or fundamental

lines

the

cases

forward, the
back

Figure

the

see

in

and
for

necessary

Bent

forward

heavy lines,we

model.

that

little extra

may
material

this,

Thus

we

bent

longer, that the

be changed,

nuist

front line must

and

from

is somewhat

little

cut-out

16.

in

be

ened.
short-

be

necessary
is allowed

can
in

the

24

PARISIAN

TAILORING

LADIES'

SYSTEM

Fig. 18

The
111

namely
must

he

line, and

and

18

Figs.

Backward

19

tlie backward
shortened
both

we

Bent

.see

lieiit

other

exactly opposite

an

figure.

by changing

front

Figure

front

line

All

in

lines,to distinguish them

ijattern, marked

Fig. 19

necessary

in

full

shoulder

and

lengthened.

changes

lines.

are

from

case,

back

the

neck

the

and

shoulder

Therefore

must

be

also marked
the

mental
funda-

PARISIAN

LADIES'

25

SYSTEM

TAILORING

Fig. 20

The

Broad

Figure with

Back

Flat

and

Chest

20

Fig.
Fig.
the

21

shows

notice

we

changes

and

in

lines

all

back,

in

have

we

wide

us

in

made

mental
funda-

onr

pattern, which

is shown

in

back,

has

widened,

heavy

lines.
Our
while

the

chest

narrower.

also

been

we

note,
has

been

Our

changed.

been

made

shoulder

ately
proportionlines

have

26

PARISIAN

TAILORING

LADIES'

SYSTEM

Fis. 22

The

Fig.
In

Figure

with

shows

us

22

Fig.

23

changes
notice
the

that

front

shoulder

we

wider
line

changed.

Fig. 23

of

Flat

Back

full chest.

lines the

iu
fundamental

our

back

and

figure with

see

from

the

Full Chest

has

for

the

the

back

been
full
has

pattern.

made

narrower

bust,

and

also

sary
neces-

been

We
and

that

the

slightly

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

27

Fig. 24
The

Figure with

Fig.
Fig.

and

the
lines.

height
as

of

well

heen

low

hack,
for

Tlie
shows

Fig. 25

have

tape

this

also

raised
front

the

they

would

the

part
have

figure,according

changed

measure

these

as

in

to

taken

measurements

We

of

full

changes

have

We

in

pattern

necessary

shoulders

the

as

too

the

the

and

high shoulders,

us

fundamental

the

25

lines,

shows

24

High Shoulders

changes

on

these
clearlv.

the

armhole.

three

parts

28

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

Fig. 26

The

lu

Figure

Fig.

'26 sliow.s

Fig.

27

the

slope

see

we

of

Sloping Shoulders

with

the

us

that

make

of

of

shoulder

the

measurements

increased

we

to

height

shoulder.

have

shoulder

our

lines, in order
the

sloping

of

lines

the

our

in

measurements

correspond
model

in

to

Fig.

26.
Tiu'
altered.

Fig. 27

armhole

has

also

heen

slightly

PARISIAN

LADIES"

TAILORING

SYSTLM

The

Fig.
the

28

shows

following

normal

Slender
us

model

of

front, the

under

Figure
figure, in

slender

measurements

the

which

than

the

back,

the

longer

are

length of

the

length of sides,the

29

height of shoulder, the

length

of

front, and

height
length of

the

arm.

The

slight changes

lines
to

he

in

made

indicate

Fig. 29.
in

the

fundamental

the

pattern, if after

measuring
that

the

length
of

do

with

agree

the

work

Fig. 29

tern
pat-

exactly
those

drawing

fundamental
all

urements
meas-

the

of

model.
In

Fig. 28

not

re-

notice

we

these
out

our

pattern
parts

will

correctly.

30

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

The

Fig'.
fnrr

30

the

tiiau

back,

of

front,
lines

the

sliort

Figure

built

and

figure,

thereshorter

lie

must

pattern

uornuil.

Fig.

of

full

slioAvs
fuudinniMital

tile

In

Built

Short

the

31

of

length
and

lines,
sides,

length

marking

of
the

of

height
front

marking

length

shoulder,

height

shorter

are

the

than

fundamental

original

pat-

tel'll.

no^v

given
nornnd

the

the

pupil

work

by

and

these

how

making

patterns.

to

difficulties

variations
our

have

we

show

to

actual

different

Avith

models,

meet

may

in

encounter

tried

devia-

important

most

which

the

rect
cor-

in

PARISIAN

The
After
l)een

the

first place

the

The
shoulders
An
the

front

cut

away

lap

over

On

we

have
measure.

front

the
in

that

buttons,

our

for

the

32.

this

and

.shows

is

seams
case

sleeve.

we

has

pattern

figure,

our

I of
wliich

give

show

lay out
ready

if

of

j)roeeed

we

in

to

of

The

wear.

the

seams,

(lengthwise)
iieavy lines
of

width

center

the

Vinek.

inch.

an

of 1| inches

is made

along

holes.
inch

of this extra

contains

button

centrally

our

of

pattern

side part, C

grain

pattern

our

to

inch, except for the

an

allow

an

for

parts

button

front, B

the

to

in this

and

front,

thus
the

fundamental

our

of

body

these

to

shown

not

sleeves
(which we
wish
material, if we

and

add

to

buttons

hem,

careful

on

right front, however,

order

The

waist

and

made,
measurements

be

line, in which

allowance

Material

materials.

lie

allowance

general
extra

the

must

we

the

line for

been

with

would

much

and

Fig.

our

this

as

being

how
lines

heavy

liave

liningsand

our

material,

the

indicate

on

correspond

to

cuttingof
In

on

all corrections

changed

Lining and

of

Cutting

31

SYSTEM

TAILORING

LADIES'

next

the

located

the

front

back

diagram)
material

of

must
to

allowance

holes,

run

must

shall

be

properly

line.
our

pattern.

also

lie

the

same

lengthwise
in

both

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

32

Constructing the Upper and

Fig. 33,

In

sleeves, the
second

"We

to

each

the
with

in

Avider
for

other

line A

the
"

C.

of width,

one

for

use

Sleeve

we

show

in

jackets

G,

"

Under

construction

the

and

of two

outer

ent
differthe

garments,

dresses,suits,etc.
in

sleeves

fundamental

with

scale

one

our

other

vertical
the

first

will find

Fig. 3-t, F

E, and

"

narrower

As

SYSTEM

waist

later

examples.

pattern,

first draw

we

point A, along

marking

B,

"

off 3|, 7, SI times

Next

width.

of

scale

points

C,

"

the

of

parts

first two

ure
meas-

of

scale

of

measurements

with

always measured

are

and

"

width

point A along

(These

part of the scale.

-i^ unit

sleeves

the

perpendicular

line

the

unit

from

2J

lines

measure

one

and

the

horizontal

square," lettering the

"tailors'
From

our

the

width.)
A

point

From

21-1-and

inches

23

these

(All
in

next

we

along

points

12,

measure

C.

"

always

are

ured
meas-

inches.)

Finish

the

drawing

of

lines

cross

in

as

diagram.

the

from

to

the

length

sleeve in Fig. 33

and

34, 17

under

inches

for

f to

correspond

point

the

3|- to

sleeve

ball.

over
our

first connect
then

lines,

have

now

From
the

the

curve

point

upper

curve

sleeve.

n,

f with

Avhich

inch

an

We

made.

the upper

of lines
of

of -]of

just

of

circle
semi-

curve

our

through

intersecting point

that from

and

points e
draw

lines

intersection

draw

Ave

distance

maximum

the

always

model.

the

figure of

tance
dis-

taken

34

d must

to

the

measurements

draw

"We

from

that

notice in Fig. 33 and

for

with

and

to

actual

the

model.
remember

miast

we

"We

3G

our

from

from

n.is li inches,

d, 9| inches,making

of the

But

f to

from

distance

The

sleeve.
marks

12, to the
21-1,
8-|-and

7 and

lines

for the underarm

seam

of

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

The

lines

line

heavy
d

point

with

3-2and

Connect

double

j^ointa

of

rest

line

under

the

to

along 3^ line, above

the
3^ and 2|, draw
Point

is half

3^

and

which

lines
near

curve

with

curve

of
curve

mark

b.

curve

connecting

of

get

n,

the

inner

the

for

r,

in

and

line

the

point

Connect

7.

from

Now

we

elbow

out
cut-

that

figure
highest point i of

its

away

curve,

with

Note

inch

along

outer

and

arm.

reaches

"

plete
Com-

an

the

and

3i

a,

under
a

4i

between

halfway

h,

by connecting
with

forms

sleeve.

line

Along

g.
"

bottom

lines.
h

"

of
"

and

along the

just made

This

g.

under

of the

an

Connect

inch

lines A

between

line

heavy

the

| inch

a,

line

12.

(1)

one

the

"We

proceed

intersection

line,also with

sleeve

line.

and

point

the

way

line

on

is

the

sleeve.

Fig. 33, D, from

In

Make

heavy

sleeve

in the

12

made.

npper

in

shown

as

little below

before

our

From

curve.

curves,

auxiliary line

have

now

sleeve.

with

in

figure,to
auxiliary

iary
auxil-

tance
point 4| a disinch, marking point t.

an

and

continue

of

end

the

from

in

measure

of ^ of

the

12, for

and

line of npper

Next

of

of sleeve.

the bottom
lines

sleeves

onter

last

intersecting-point

with

of

the

connecting

the

23 marks

Connect
bottom

33

SYSTEM

line

and

ing
continu-

b.

sleeve

upper

of

curve

"

lower

sleeve.

notice

We
and

line

This

8.1.

from

lines connecting

Fig. 34, F

and

In

the

sleeve,point

upper

Line

4J.

k is

"

The

Fig. 33.
rounding
curve

elbow
In

parallelto

near

nndersleeve

g, show
a

3^

rounding

the

along

G, the

"

g,

an

have

the

onter

inch

line

these

curve

from

i.

from

narrower

"

of

-]of

an

inch

near

and

"

the

distant
section
inter-

23.

trifle above

passing through

"

lines

two

lines
of

line

bottom

connecting

equidistant

made

been

instead

(1) inch

one

12, and

"

the

the

-}of

meets

t is

is

which

nndersleeve.

narrower

and

following changes

In

of lines 21-J and

marks

h.

nndersleeve.

is the
with
We

same

tlw

as

in

("ll)ow

also notice

PARISIAN

34

LADIES'

Remeasuring
tlie

As
must
nor

too

Fig.

different

and

Sleeves

Upper

models

remeasuring

our

3") shows
of

If need
widen

in

SYSTEM

Under

greatly

vary

in order

to

make

in

their

development,

tlie sleeve

neither

we

wide

too

narrow.

cumferenee

or

in

arms

eareful

be

the

TAILORING

or

arm,

he.
narrow

how
are

wi-

to

6. size

lengthen
it, to

of

armholi',

14,

length

of

underarm,

eir-

15,

lie I'emeasiired.

make

shorten

or

it

the

correspond

sleeve
to

the

little,as

the

case

\Ye

however,

the

top
sleeve,
sleeve

the

the

upper

that

is

the

ball, together

with

the

the

in
that

of

measure

of

about

sleeve,

hole

inches

than

the

In

arm-

taken

measure

the

model.
t li e

finishing
the

garment,
hole

be

two

larger

of

cut-out

must

on

hear

must

mind,

Fig. 35

he,

may

taken.

measurements

of

arm-

the

waist

must

be

stretched

while

the

curve

the
be
to

in, in order

;_;ecure

ease

for

movement

th
ng.

must

arm

upper
held

of

the

add

1\

to

the

sleeves

for

nnist

inclies
of

of

PARISIAN

upper,

and

J" the
for

allowance

allowed

shows

36

Fig.

at

the

oui'

sleeve

under

sleeve.

seams.

An

the bottom

TAILORING

LADIES'

pattern without
The

extra

for inside

SYSTEM

ion

construct

of

heavy lines,f
2 inches,

1-i to

as

inch

an

35

before

liiu^s.

is

the

in width,

uuirk

the

mentioned,

must

be

finishing.

Fig. 36.

Possible
The

fashions

pattern

may

for

the

Changes

in

lujdergo changes,
basis

for

any

Fashions

the
but

we

sleeve, as

must
arms

the
mental
fundaalways use
will always have
tliL^same

shape, regardless of changes of styles.

The
be longer or
length of shoulder
shorter, but this
may
the
be
as
difficulty,
changed to accommodate
easily
any
patterns may
vogue.

Our

next

figures show

how

these

changes

are

to

be

made.

need

not

the

cause

style in

36

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

Fie. 37

In

Fig.

38

the

Fig. 37,

front,

A,

we

side, and

lines

change

we

of
in

narrower

mental
funda-

our

full

how

see

part of

upper

back

marked

pattern

for

the

see

lines.

In

make

to

front

and

back

that

the

iary
auxil-

shoulder.
bear

Always
slioulder
the

only

in

lines

cut-out

"We

and

size of
to

the

ease

our

of

cut-out

Fig.
sleeve

formed
lines.

the

see

the

38

curve

has

that
been

larger

arm-

shoulders.

increase

order

properly

be

to

into

the
able

the

arm

waist.

shows

pattern

armliole

must

we

ball, in

sleeve

and

narrower

that

arm

same,

forming

leaving

readily

the

are

of

enlarged, thereby
hole

mind

in

us

full

of the

the
lines

armball

fundamental
and

the
in

newly

PARISIAN

LADIES'

SYSTEM

TAILORING

37

Fig. 39

Fig. 40
Just

longer

desir(^d

length

lines, along

of

the

that

the

j)attern

our

do

both

this

will

armball

nuist

add

shoulder

our

through

armhole

this, we

line.

shoulder

auxiliary

notice

Therefore

to

of

formation

To

line.

in

demonstrated

the

namely

shoulder

We

is

opposite

39, B,

Pig.

the

the

be
also

change
smaller.
made

be

smaller.

Fig.
pattern
lines

the
to

40

shows

in

full

new

make

the
lines

curve

fundamental
in

and
of

the

sleeve

the
armball

sary
neces-

perfect fittiiigsleeve.

38

PARISIAN

The

Fundamental

Now

tliat

ready

are

Pattern

liavc

\v("

study

to

LADIES'

the

the

Basis of

mastered

SYSl

Designing

drafting

the

of

making

TAILORING

changes

of

Pattern

and

Making

fundamental

our

form

to

necessary

EM

pattern
of

patterns

we

waists
shirt-

aiiil hlouses.
We

one-piece
cuffs

shall

also

.see

sleeve

can

be

witli

all the

Of
of

are

such

with

cope

further

We

drafted

shall

41

the

shows

us

shirtwaist

and

the

study

of

how

be

can

and

made.

illusti'ated. l)ut these

intelligenceof

readers

our

can

tliese.

pattern first place in

trations.
illus-

our

Forms
of

making

pattern, the

the

collars

fashions

are

Its Different

In

Shirtwaist

that

sliirtwaist

the

shortened, how

or

changing

to

construction

assitred

of

making

tlie

The

Fig.

feel

we

due

in

problems

lengthened

previotispattern,

our

variations

problems through

give

he

may

from

few

that

nature

garments

multitudinous

only

course

how

which

will

fully

be

explained.
It A\(.iuld be
with

together

Fig.

on

of

in

no

the

a,

waist

fundamental

along

the

f line

scale

of

"

line

prolonged,
connect

pattern is three

is

or

below

"

point

"

bending

This

line.

and

length

shoulder

pattern,

falls

point

that

the

c.

point

of width

scale

our

"

but

from

as

they

measure

are

(1)

one

of
of width

draw

be

may

From

e.

"

unit

part of the

lines.

falling from

inches

extra

measure

our

fundamental

them.

scale

allowance
two

parts

the

angle

an

of

in

waist

the

the

ecpialsto

g.

shown

as

b.

position

to

parts of

extra

measure

little to

line

the

shows

that

tmit

takes

g,

"

in

made

larger

d to
v.

"

of

front

the

that

f to

and

of

g.

"

which
above

peplum

for

our

g.

parallel to

gathered

waist
shirt-

our

than

skirt.

line

to

waist

our

From
draw

(3)
the

pattern,

From
note

changes

Place

left in the

ignore

we

now

the

C.

"

C at such

"

been

have

distance

readily understand

fundamental

lines

dart

to

('2)unit

two

measures

the

along

cut-out

Avith

position that

study Figs. 42. 43. 44,

to

themselves

perpendictdar

such

pattern

and

width,

We

we

"

pupils

sleeves.

lower

present problem,

our

Our
c

neck

that

Note

('.

value

lines) in

front

"

and

have

the

familiarize

to

upper

we

B. and

"

of center
d

42

for

however,

order

(in

pattern

along

in

41.

side, and

front, back,
In

advisable,

deeper

"

F.

from

y,

"

the
The

cut-out.

in
instead

"

of

cutting

the
to

form

the

shoulder

triangle

lines
the

right of the

show

to

"

middle

of the neck

V-shaped neck,
point

ci

how

pattern along

"

y,

in

down

the

in

lapels
the

lower

rounding

shown

Fig.

lines
couhl

be

respective lines

if
L

"

"

b,
The

front
and

made

41.

line,

triangle

desired, by
y

and

"

F.

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

40

Fig.

shows

43

liaek
a

We
and

from

be

must

front.

the

the

to

In

side and

parts of

back

of

Avish
of

Ave

Fig.

Along

Ave

of

Ave

45

43

slope
line,

If

Fig.

Fig.
Avith

front

of

part

the

iiart.

part of

at

m,

of

scale

our

the

of

scale

our

arndiole

and

width.

side,

to the

correspond

to

as

The

pattern, is shown

in

lines

and

in

changes
tions
addi-

the

one-piece pattern by joining the

The

explained

three

(3) nnit

above.

ever,
If, how-

just along

pattern

our

is

pattern

new

original,as

be

to

the

wise
length-

neck

C,

"

the

the

Avaist

with

in

armhole.

addition

to

made

be

to

are

(litf"'rent sleeves

slight changes

f is continued
line

the

as

Avay

same

adilition of the

is

as

in the

in

as

struction.
con-

former

our

only

to

the
on

made

this

point

Avay

should
waist
the

nected
con-

turn

in

is

straight

right side,

the

left

be

cut

off.

as

in

(2)

lap-OA'erAvill

our

on

shouder.

be

may

down

the

line

is tAA'o

(', Avhich

"

on

Avhich

e.

lines,

therefore,

lines

it Avill contiinu'

left in

pattern

This

('.

"

in

otlicr way

and,

point

to

parallel to

shoAvn

material

extra

Init in the

inches

Ij

of

hoAvever,

Tliis increase.
Tlu-

of

changed

is alloAved.

collars, cufifs, and

lines
e

to

of

"

in

along

lines that

fit tliis

:|inch

as

facing.

as

Avidtli from

Avaist, Avhile

see

used

cut-out

of

where

in

But

foUoAving:

the

are

order

albiA\anee

extra

lines.

shoAv

Ave

measurements

same

the

Ave

back,

in

sleeve

in

seams

example

an

under

larger

our

an

cut

45.

47

of

Ave

lap over,
only useless,

In

been

construction

shoAvn

this should
be not

unit

inches

lay

we

nmde

make

all the

scab'

as

the

front, and

Ave

the

our

('.

in

to

changes

in toward

as

(1)

piecesjoin

two

fundamental

made

and

upper

each

give

AVe

Fit;'.46

Avith

piece

one

has

the

otherAvise

parts of

the

is shown

have

we

wider

the

front

In

to

parts of

ordinary tight-fitting
garment.

of two

pattern

that

in

the

further.

joined

h, in such

unit

(2)

two

the

for

play

of

"

pattern.

shoulders,

proceed

unit

than

inch

Thi'

line

fundamental

see

Fig.

Avill shoAV

In

one

the

width

back

We

pattern.

i and

at

mental
funda-

our

lines.

the

Fig.

freer

allowance

an

already allowed,

inch

our

44

in

except along

the

place

material.

added

haA-e

lie

that

so

(1) unit

than

roomy

notice

the

our

armhole

our

of

oiu'

give

in

we

is

to

waist

gives

scale

our

In

"VVe

line, falls

the back

distance

t to

more

the

pattern
43

we

C.

"

should

waist

the

at

fundamental

Our

Fig.

fold

at

is made

line, and
in

rounding

piece to

from

and

parallel to

z.

side

the

allowance

shirtwaist

line

to

n.

piece falls

to

extra

the

back

"

SYSTEM

j.

From
This

from

neck

the

center

our

side

the

that

so

place

next

1 of

width

k,

of width

scale

TAILORING

periH-udieularA

our

pattern

positionthat

our

our

LADIES'

PARISIAN

given

side

in

our

as

only

Avould

tration.
illus-

corresponding

to

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

41

PARISIAN

42

48

Fig
and

of the

eithei' side

front

on

low

Fig.

and

onedialf

line

f.

indicate

in

the

we

(H)

the

o,

sliould

original pattern
form

to

pleats.

increased

be

may

the

the

front

be

cut

These

this

where

Fig.

to

strap

back,

with

which

is

n,

shown

on

4.'i.

and

in

Fig.

49.

one

The

lines parallel to

the

give

to

inserts

diminished

or

in

correct

lines

show

extends

rounding

f and

(11) from

47

"

(:"") pleats in

give

to

46

illustrated

neek

in

strap

Fig.

shoulder

three

that

inches

how

52

shows

]ileatsto

nmtch

the

the

cut

iiattern

our

i of

are

make

to

room

according

the

and

back

pleat

the

inch

an

the

to

allowance

extra

it,
serts
in-

the

in width

width

of the

stitched

the

along

The

appears.
lines

and

cither

on

lines.

with

lines

pattern is increased

exactly

pattern

This

front.

with

the

fold, while

represents the

Fig.

places for

marking
in

the

fashion

same

front.
"").'!
shows

Fig.
back,

either

on

or

The

Fig.

In

54

front

shown

be

yoke,

which

figure shoMs
in the

and

figure has

in this

line
line

nuide
this

pleats,but

in

front

fullness

and

could

be

Ijack.
wide

"

to

bottom

the

shoAvs

but

curve,

neck
line

the

and

styles of yokes, nanu'ly

tile tlii'ee different

be

can

could

be

made

later.

the

the

/"

"

in

Our

only.

side

will

with

waist

shown

sleeve

differently,as

us

both

instead,

gathered

for

the

from

one-half

shoulder

shoulder,

tlie center

along

meet

part

extra

an

with

observe

brought together,

are

111,,, Y

"(O

shows

51

line

heavy

the

liack

SYSTEM

desired.

Fig.

as

Avaist

front.

needed

are

and

liiii'sin

make

to

pattern, but

]deats

side

back

the

TAILORING

The

in

where

that

of

inches

and

one

formation

shows

eollar-eut
In

front

seam.

and

49

Fig.

the

how

the

gives

also

falls

shows

LADIES'

the

The

cut.
v

"

the

deep,

indicate

"

shorter,

the

cut

and

the

"'Ui'\'e(lyoke.
=^=

position after

\-oke

The

vertical

short

55

Fig.
in

lines,

the

curve

We
in

lini's mark

must

connection

shoulder,
5

not

with

center

of

that

an

tlie waist

of
inch
line.

"

the

back

the

lines:

"

the

41,

in

shorter,

along

to

the

and
front

above

niati'rial

along

i-elative

yoke

in

indicate

z,

"

both

the
for

edges

cut

form

f of

an

front, 11
for

cuts;

lines, and

-"

point

Figs. 45, 49, 53,

namely

back

the

with

1, the

forget

of

in

inch

an

deep
seams.

pleats.

is necessary

Fig.

g.

"

liending

proper

shows

lines

jiarallel

Tile

to

inch
inches

facing, and

the

at

nnd^e
for
in
2

side

seams,

inches

the

to

for

of
the

extra

deep,

in
if desired.
mentioned

allowance
'}

addition

"

back,

center

the

1,

"

an

inch

above

for
tioned
men-

length

low
be-

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

43

44

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

45

56

Fig.
reduced

shows

Avith reference
inches

from
In

axis A

the

of

Fig.

in

the

lines

show

fundamental

our

in

such

and

placed

are

the

points 8

pattern

position

each

are

3J

widths

and

full lines

upper

we

to

conform

been

so

placed

larged
en-

desired.

be

fundamental

original

with

fit the

and

addition

the

sleeve

the

see

part,

the

tliat may

B, and

a.xis line A"

In

lines

The

make

to

the

pattern, while

originalsleeve

the

necessary

waist.

lengths

lines.

pattern

parts

B, that

"

of

sleeve

two

allowance

the

us

pattern in
sleeve

the

sleeve

shows

57

The

line A

full

tlie shirt

tlie different

under

SYSTEM

B.

"

indicate

armliole

full size.

the

figure

lines

mark

of

and

upper

tlie liorizontal

to

the

an

us

one-eighth

to

TAILORING

LADIES"

PARISIAN

46

made

the

widen

to

Avider

tlie

sleeve

of

armhole

the

waist.
The
and

sleeve

from

higher

pattern has

the

or

Fig.

shows

points s"

to

be

equal

add

the

measure.

We

t,

"

have

liottom

tlie distance

The
now

to

one-piece

shorter

tlie

fit

for

a.

"

the
we

cut-out

shall

see

Fig.
and

For

cut

of

the
the

to

waist

garment

our

placed shoulder

The
to

must

will

be.

accompanying

illustrates

dresses.

be

can

placed

styles.
and

upper

front

the
and

shoulder

line

It is shown

sleeve

the

at

B,

"

here

is

bottom,

is, the

together; that

tance
dis-

part beyond

x.

curve

sleeve, to

which

is the

which

sleeve

give

the

but

be

must

we

correct

distance

same

may

r.

"

arm

from

gathered

as

at

the

cuff.

construction

the

always depends
will

fit

perfectly

the

low

cut

to

make

styles of

cut-out

or

neck,

will

how

always consider

therefore
in order

upon
a

different

of

deep

or

lapel
never

high

perfect fittingcollar,as

figures.

formation
back
for

central

our

sleeve.

upper

sleeve

line.

center

Construction

collar
which

We

the

one-piece

upper

with

consider

to

collar

garment.

in the
59

tlie

attached

of the

under

away

an

of

construction

garment.

higher

and

r.

"

shirt

prepared

now

The

collars.
of

are

points

tlie

fundamental

our

parallel to

is

of

Collar

We

point

and

B,

"

line

and

is connected

to

width

cut

we

equal

point

made

or

the

of upper

undersleeve

curve

dividing

the

as

width

equals
the

from

fact that

the

tlie bottom

"

line A

of

distance

in eitlier of these

respectively 34 inches from

are

only

to

In

r.

used

demonstrate

The

is made

sleeve

center

line

is to

inches.

tlie

lines.

The
and

is Si

"

if the

the

us

in

undersleeves.

desired,

as

58

Tlie

axis

central

lower

that

the

of different

pieces

of

the

construction

collars, suitable for shirt

fundamental

of

onr

pattern

collars.

have

waists
been

PARISIAN

o-

n-

n-

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

47

In

neck, and
form

b to

back,

in

._.

lines,from
lines,we

f in

to

SYSTEM

I'epresents tlie pointed

part tluit is either

rounding,

along

i in

f to

otf

the

neck

pattern. Another

bent

or

b,

"

center

traced

from

to

e, the

be

can

the

back

cut-out

1 to

and

lines,

of

cut-out

eut

lines and

1 in

to

collar

one

see

lines,from

==

1)

"

neck

following-the

in

triangle that

in

Now

lapel.

line

pattern the

sluuled

the

from

front

the

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

48

from

to

in

lines.

"

follows

Still another

the

l.i "1

curve

"

lines, d

to

and

to

in

lines.
the

If. however,

tlie front.

in

shaped

lines

i to

and

i and

to

up

and

one

shows

us

more

Fig.
will

neck

60

fit

never

for

is

there

in

there

the

the

collars

follows

previously

sidered.
con-

in

to

and

"

front,

f to i in

from

lapel point
to

in

from

to

the

c,

make

In
at

this

to

the
"=:"=

and
from

then

cut

b, which

to

is bent

collar

rounded

in

the

back

or

proceeds along
in

the

lines

"-

the

point,

Here

also

lapel to
to

e.

will

cut-out

lines

to

"

::::::::

lines

1i in

from

lines

1) in

to

"

f.

and

j. and

from

lapel, and

from

to

lines

to

i,

f, and

"

h,

to

the

shaded

i to

over

we

e,

fail

cannot

to

high neck.

from
e

of

point

the

to

fit

not

b in

from

e.

k, through

to

neck

from

another

show

="

collar

61

Fig.

b in

to

to h

lines
that

high

necessary.

ti'aeed

be

ean

collar

in

observe

from

cut

shawl

i,and

to

lines,if desii-ed.

extending

seen

shape
lines

we

see

b. and

"

lines

is

dif'fci'eiit one

in

there

neck

shaded

we

perfectly fits

versa.

low

very

which

collar

visa

lapel is

no

case

that

lapel.

extra

no

If

in

from

or

in

c,

follows

Still another

of

one

dififerently

be

must

lapel

proceeds

lines

indicated

this

style

there

lines

as

f, then

-"

figure a

to

In

d.

Another

lines

lines

eut-out,

1) in

pointed to

from

this

lapel, as

the

From

We

to

plainly

lower

in

notice

We

and

in

collar

bar!;.

center

over

lines

starts

one

the

that, including the

one

same

differentlyshaped

A
and

the

along

notice

We

is desired,

lapel

in

point of this

the

back

turn

to

we

d,

in

is shown
have

from

lines.
with

collar

there

to

j, and

points.

many

then

ing
Start-

in

1.
collar

smalliMr

and
collar

be

can

traced

from

in

to

="="="=

and

in

n.

rounded
lines

over

in
the

front

and

rounding

square
to

in the
and

1.

liack

is shown

starting from

PARISIAN

Fig.62

LADIES'

TAILORING

POCKETS

SYSTEM

Reduced

49

to

One

Fourth

50

LADIES"

PARISIAN

TAILORING

SYSTEM

Pockets
lu

Fig'.62

we
give several styles of pockets,
styles of pocket laps.

different
In

the first

by

the

iu

the

lowest

three

row

finished

cated
pockets a, b and c, and below, indiletters,the patterns for these pockets. The little rounding at
finislied pockets we
can
easilymake
))ycutting,as .shown in the unfinished
row

see

we

same

top of tlie

tlu'

the

and

But

pocket.

the

make

also

can

we

same

straight along

tlie

top, if

below,

designated by

the

same

so

we

desire.

d.

and

patterns

are

in the

lines

In

see

we

an

the

upper

of

point

The

pocket

length

sleeve.

62A

the

find

we

shows

us

is then

with

about

placed

the
In

this figure,a

Fig. 58).

in

tops of the

cuff'

upper

(1)
not

lie flat

apart

two

p^lo-.

has
F

to

bell

its

that

is where

it

jacket, and
higliestpoint

in
of

lines

the

arndiall

to

above

the

lower

of the

end

sleeves

and

two-piece

four

us

cuffs, and

in

and

c,

to

the

"

needed,

that

so

piece (as

one

in cuff's

shown

lower

the

one.

sleeves
as

strate
again demon-

in

the

shown

d.

"

figure.
cut.

upper

the

"

are

cuff

upper

The
The
one

should

dift'erent

top,

in

lines.
lines

full

shown

as

pattern

iu

partly
of

under

the

sleeves

"

are

placed

for

cuff'

and

tion
construc-

in
with

under

The

e.

for

lines, is the
sleeve

the

marked

li, is used

"

show

we

is

pattern

Tlie

is the

in

center

cuff's,of which
this

cuff

h.
for

pattern

therefore

arm

tern,
pat-

same

In
g.

extends

the
This
from

beyond.
The

construction

The

dotted

su])ply tlie

extra

Sleeves
in the

width

i and
same

of

from
sleeve

f.

to

as

s,

The
to

necessary

k. about
way

f"

sleeve

of

curves

shaped portion

sleeve

in

full and

in the

seam

from
fiare

full

in

"

R.

"

three

the

in

figure,partly

same

cuff

joining. Cuff'
but pointed at

"

uudersleeve

sleeve

upper

pocket,

constructed

are

necessary

Tlie

h.

"

=----===

one.

shows

"

"

the

and

seams

"

the

inches

(2)

respectively as

cut

lower

letters,

the

Sleeves

d, show

here

are

the

give

the

over

under
lines

to

and

e,

"

lines

construction
inch

"

cuff's used

The

of

the

different
again show
a
one-piece sleeve from

Fig. 63 we
cutting of

and

seam.

Cuffs and
In

gathered,

positionof

front

shoulder

front

our

is

dress.

pattern placed

sleeve

pocket

place of gathering.

jacket, skirt, or
Fig.

finished

how

see

and

pockets,
The

same.

we

full lines

lowest

full

the

62A

Fig.

In

finished

are

pattern show

iu the

belongs

the

for

identical

sleeve

f.

i" k

is illustrated

through
heavy
make
with

dotted

"

iu

B. show

the

lines added

tlie three

Fig. 57,

(3)
are

Fig.

tucks

i" k.

"

required shape for

to

our

upper

widened

sleeve

iu f.

shown
in

the

upper

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

51

LADIES'

PARISIAN

52

The

depends

bottom

First

We

and

the

forming

Fig.

point

line

On

in the

"

of

measurement

Fig.

pattern for

and

12

this

64

at

of the

circular

in inches,

how

13,

with

the

piece

taken

as

skirt.
the

on

waist

of

line is

thread

structed,
con-

with

held

througli the

thread

of

36^

From

37

along

a,

in

to A

On

line

(7) inches

from

A.

"

as

shown

A"

mark

mark

a,

f,

"

x,
a

Avith

the

for

the

"

proceed

next

left thumb,
waist

build

to

with

line.

the

Form

the

pattern from

our

the

used.

are

inches.

(13

inches

one-lialf

of

tlie

measure).

inches.

(20 inches

inches.

40

measure,

"

in front.

26 inches.

of back,

at

oft' arc

measurements

Lengtli

Length

previously taken.

model

measure,

from

Seven

A.

maker

We

manner.

side.

perpendicular
inches

point

mark

and

model

our

the

point
from

tliread circle

same

the

form

we

of skirt. :;{6inches

Waist

the

cut

pointed pencil looped

mark

Length

Hip

tlie width

liipline.

pencilstart

the

In

and

inches

the

holding

Next

line f

pieces,but

more

rcuieasured

made

had

we

"

of the

the starting point

hip

eighteen (18)

point of

to

and

cut

are

tailors' square

the

64.

or

arc.

Witli
in

that

left hand,

the

how

previously in Fig.

recall

we

Skirt Pattern

intended.

are

shown

of

thumb

the

they

have

three

two,

show

to

all skirts

that

wliom

for

model

endeavor

will

Remember

in one,

Circular

SYSTEM

prevailingfashion.

npon

we

Cutting of

made

be

skii't cau

TAILORING

the

measure

onc-lialf

front

of

the
of

length

measure).
tlie

skirt

in

(36 inches

figure.)
P^rom

in

(i:" inches

measure

oft' at

f. mark

The

line

c,

of

the

hip

from
eciiiidistant

and

point

Along

e.

(20 inches
e,

the

marks

between

way

one-half

measure

the

measure

a,

invariably lialf

is

line,

figure "i. marking

the

onedialf

point

this

line, as

along tlie waist

curve

in the

around

the

tlu'

line from

hip

figure).

starting point

tlie center

waist

front

of

and

side

our

the

center

back.
As
We

for

use

lati'r show
From

along

liave

we

licfore

our

model

how

this

skirt,marking

here
may

the

the

n.

width

increased

be

distance

point

the

bottom

marks

which

slight curve

mentioned,

or

length of
of

22}

From

skirt
of

widths

vary

fashion's

one-half

and

two

with

dictates.
and

(24) yards,

diminished.
the

inches,

skirt
or

in this way

at

the

one-half

center

the

rei^eat this

front,

width

of

measurement

measure

the

half
to

i.

PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING

SYSTEM

53

PARISIAN

54

with

Connect

line

center

to

and

tile side

back

length

careful

connecting the
As

all

and

patterns

will

we

same,

Above

with

the

exactly

the

to

given

in

Fig.

the

rounding

of

other

along

to

a,

to

the

half

have

our

C, and

"

of

length
Next

from

around

the

of

procedure

same

through

c,

As

e,

make

small

the

of

this

at

the

an

inch

for

the

hem.

for

should

these

the

desire

we

front.

Fig.

back
66

('. Fi-om

"

mark

made

is circular

yokes

cut

are

to

the

body.

of

the

skirt, will

the

see

we

if

results

same

One

These

smoothly

the

to

the

us

lines.

fit

In

P" to

"

(13

"

mark

off at

in the

inches

of this

center

line

we

be

circular

same

compared.
four

measure

oft' at

inches

distance

distance

equal

illustration).Connect

equal

to

one-

"

with

o.

of

side, of back

of

length

-witJi that

is identical

skirt

measure

o,

65.

Fig.

and

nuirked

method

our

lower

is the

sweep

exactly

(^) of

inch

an

at

If the

make

the

parts, in order

is made

by

shows
to

the

by

skirt

skirt

insure

l:-! inches,
e.

and

meeting

the

at

marking
the

at

of

to

line

be

and

In

Fig.

heavy

line.

length

of side

back.

of

the

the

one

of

in

we

(1)

o,

c,

case

find
inch

lines
the

to

incli

an

the
that

n,

at

one

other
an-

how

line, a

either

on

skirt

c, and

see

we

indicate
waist

our

below

66

skirt, meeting
these

hip

on("-half

Tims

line, it is necessary

the

parts

eliminated

fit.

cut-out

the

of

in two
From

perfect
the

the

l)ottoin

is made

waist

Connect

c.

waist

and

narrower.

the

part
a

back

tlie dotted
line

to

line.

straiglitlength

the

between

line.

triangle

waist
center

of the

triangle is shown
This

the

in the

from

inches

2
perpeiidii'ular

form
in

curves

side

to

on

to

curve

as

hip

possible

c.

66.

point just

propi'r

cut-out

lines

small

along

measure

mark

body

either

the

two

with

tills is indicated

it is

curve,

skirt.

liottom

pockets,

the

in

relative

giving

the

a,

slant

secure

point

the

On

of

to

bottom

previously given.

as

Fr(un

to

waist

width

the

equal

front.
in

a.

lines, and
As

from

the

the

of

"

allow

in

line, and

following Fig.

perpendicular

the

draw

sweep

(if). The

pointed

waist

skirt, differentlyconstructed, but

We

distance

(37 inches in figure).

of the

top and

yoke patterns

explanation

discussion

the

model

Now

must

we

Fig.

off

side

62.

the

necessary

for the

bottom

at

in

notice

we

the

respectively the

us

(here '-'iGl
inches). Along the center

accuracy.

seams,

is shown

line, and

Furtlicr
in

skirt

secure

give

si"lc lini' mark

of back

allowance

extra

the

model

form

to

without

are

P'ig.64,

waist

to

marked

an

find

the

SYSTEM

Tliese lines

Along

of

remeasure

points

finished

i.

reqiiired length

to

make

The

skirt.

our

TAILORING

g- witli

measurement

oft' the

Be

and

of

liack

measure

seams,

and

n,

LADIES'

side

is made

curved
of

in

waist
one-half

of

Both
cut

in

one

cut

in

two

the

two

bias

as

meet

Fig.

front
at

sagging

shows

marked

are

principle

pieces

prevent

Fig.
shapes

both

pieces,

in
66.

sFig.66

belt

front
and

the
of

in

and

64

piece, the lengtli of

to

seams,

illustrations

our

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

is

the
and

could

placed

back

sides.
the

66

are

Care

SYSTEM

be

cut

the

on

placed
must

on

be

in

55

one

of

the

fold

taken

to

pieces.

two

or

fold

the

nuiterial.

and

tape

as

both

of

If
If

result
these

material.

heavy

lines.
lines.

Two
These

pointed
are

in

yokes

formed

ou

different
the

same

56

PARISIAN

The

"We

In

we
]ii-oportions

around

cut

part

skirt

from

cutting

the

From

of

inch

an

C"

tlir bottdiii

fold

of

the

line,

inches

and

li

from

from

14

to

made

fi'om

We
auxiliary

cut

our

from

nuiterial

proper

(2i)

yards

.')()inches

wide.

part, and

side

the

tlu= bottom.

one-ludf

fold,

and

in

gores

ai'ound

and

the

on

of

skirt

two

cut

patterns

"

from

cut

are

hem

or

back

perpendicular
e

"

front

length

of

in the

illustration).

the

to

along

B,

"

From

of

(f)

"

added

be

must

three-fourth

s,

"

taken

measurenu'nts

which

allowance,

points

mark

inches
of

to

the

front

auxiliary

the

on

inch

an

the

to

this

liue.

tlie center

as

gore,

the

from

inches

in to

measure

hip point

make

marking

distance

of

the

are

line

measure

Tins

gives

is laid

front

the

us

the

on

point

1-^ inches.

rounding

Connect

o.

Connect

E,

i.

with

waist

The

and

line

to

u.

lines, and

The

j.

B,

"

11

inches

16

from

from

cut-outs

Thus

together.

This

gore.

If

all

our

point
also
the

for

correct

cut-outs

is the

hip

the

bottom

that
Imck

gore

this

add

to

waist

our

,i

to

liue

we

which

gather

tlie waist

4 inches,

line

our

from

leaves

to

one-third,
of

measures

total

to

12}

half

which
the

waist

1 is

inches

ferent
dif-

measure

model,
the

waist

liue 7 inches
of

is left

bottom

is made,

width
we

at

The

inches

plus 4i inches, plus

find

that
This

of

of 4 inches.

we

ol)serve

Measure

inches

or

parallel to
cut-out

back

measure

which

"

t.

liiu' of the

notice

C,

"

'S

each,

inches

and

(^'oiuiect g

4,^ inches.

shows

g,

parallel to"

"

to

ni

4.^ inches,

inches,
AVe

(36 inches

shows

waist

gores

is 13

From

tlie waist
us

piece

seam

ofl the

measures

6S,

inches.

gives

are

shows

"

nu^asure

fi-om
to

Fig.

for

the

gored skirt,

inches.

Fig. 6S,

and

16

Fi'om

4^

measui'e

liue

-width

"

along

"

tlie widths
of

they

all skirt

6SA

Fig,

the

material.

Along

curved

that

without

unvisure

of

From

cutting of

gathered.
sliglitly

is

same

are

line

half

front

Skirt

('.

to

From

of

measure

auxiliary

slunv

gores

again

along
s

divide

to

Pleated

and

tlie width

upon

The

goods.

Fi'om

apart.
dotted

fold.

figure,and

our

and

desiguiny

able

SYSTEM

four-gorinlskirt measuring

Tlie

mention

be

to

consists

the

on

We

in

sliows

tin' Ixittom.
This

thv

decide

must

67

Pig.

order

TAILORING

of the Gored

Cutting

lU'iiioustratc

iK.'xt

])lratedskirt.

LADIES'

gores

line
below
A

straight on

and
the

in
the
B

Fig,

68

"

"

are

Avaist line.
are

bottom.

rounded

to

the

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

57

t/i-n^

From-

-To-

11 -Same

as

From-

-j

e -To

X
m
a
c
n

Length of

Sides ..sy.
CR

FROM-t-

TO

-l^-SAME

AS

FROM-

E-TO-

CENTER

Length of Back

on

^a

PARISIAN

58

the

are

of

sides

Tlie

length

same

The

This

The

short

Fig.

69

67

to

gives

the

At

"

E.

width.

plus

"

the

joining

wliich

seams,

which

along

the

remeasure

we

back

inches,

to
m

"

in
E.

"

side

and

gathered

gore

and

waist

there

line

is

"

"

s,

"

in

each

in

each

of
This

skirt.

from

inches.

"

inches

the

B,

10

nn_-asurements

inches, gives IS

to

remember).
of

in

inclu'S

must

bottom

to

and

gores.

material

the

20

10

inches,

T). fi'om
"

and
we

the

is

being

six

unchanged.

aiT

being

folds,

for

z^u

four

to

to

that

from

k,

double

cut

fact

in

skirt

jiiecing.

li to

on

2j yards
A

thi'

oidy difference

is

measurements

wide,

are

from

this

to

anil

a,

laid

are

pattern

"

to

the

without

tJie

and

whicli

jiartly
pattern

"

about

E.

"

front

the

skirt, whereas

n,

inches,

etit'ect skirt,

2:i yards

is

the

gathers.

saun'

and

to

Fig. 70. A,

Adding

in

SO

E.

"

C,

l"otli of

of

top

the

to

skirt

two

of

C, from

in

"

(the

indicate

wider

"

the

of

total

us

inches,

from

gores.

gores

in

fashion

to

back

side

line

the

indicate

cutting

permit

bottom

and

due

perpendicular

The

the

sliow

to

figures.

four-gored

gave

partly

lengths

the

marked

are

the

practically

us

68

to

The

front

shows

is

narrow

and

lines

parallel

and

change

too

in

in

lines

"

side.

Fig.

that

"

shown

as

"-

of

length

patterns

SYSTEM

TAILORING

LADIES'

each

are

inches

inches

inches.

half

for

cut-outs

1]
9

get

we

to

The

of

the

in
This

waist

measurement.

Further

sliould

foIloAv

we

fitting

farther

shows

71

apart

Fig.

the

out

in

gathering

in

the

D.

pattern
back,

which
make

and

Fig.

73

gives

plaits

of

pattern

the

plait, with
l)ox

shows

to

box

plaits

be

can

closer

made

together

desired.

from

72

There

plaited skirt.

as

forms

fold

front

leave

to

k,

to

back.

Fig.
or

desire

Ml-

from

lines

the

observe

Ave

plaits

wiiich

can

plain plaited
sides

both

on

lie

jilaced

skirt.

facing

closei'

oi-

The

center

back.

tinfarther

apart

as

desired.
In
waist

the

to

pattern,
We
different

few

next

will

skirts

witli

one

also

lessons
seams

endeavor
and

we

waists.

to

will

show

running
show

how

how
to

the

to

make

to

shouldiT

diangc
botli

variety

of

fundamental

our

in

front

dresses

and

by

back.

ing
combin-

PARISIAN

From-

Cente

TAILORING

LADIES'

"

J^-To

Length

-t-

SYSTEM

Same

as

From

of Back

on

Fold

59

E-To-C-

D3

60

LADIES'

PARISIAN

SYSTEM

TAILORING

anod

"PQ

NO

"i3j.Na3

\....

X
h
X
o
u
z

CO

bJDa

bJD

-U
N-

anoj

NO

d3i.N30

-"

-c/i

PARISIAN

Fundamental

the

from

Changes

TAILORING

LADIES'

Pattern

76

Fig.
to

the

shows

shoulder

dart, and

extend
74

Fig.

in full

line of the

from

draAv

(i)

dart

with

with

Cutting along
seams
reaching
waist

the

curved

In
add

about

and

to

this line,

lines

"

is two

seams

usual

waist

and

e,

"

parts of

unit

in

lines

j, in

"

for

tern
pat-

the

front

Connect

construction

that

of

scale

our

full lines, so

eonsti'uction line.

have

we

of

waist

back

now

divided

back

pattern with

is

and

the

into

two

one-

second

front

our

pieces
from

reaching

seams

will

of

give

side

line, two

in

is the

"

with

side

part

basque back,

and

back

of

is

pattern

originally made.

the

original basque

the

scale

of

the

full

line

back.

shoulder

"

connected

joining

the

waist

(1) of an
high up

as

line

Fig.

unit

lines.

of

parts

Next

draw

width
h

g,

"

inch

the former
side
slightlyto the right. Connect
it formerly reached
in the arm
ting
Cutrounding.
from
the shoulder
a
two-piece back with a seam

as

ns

provide

and

We

invariably
front

and

made

from

joined

at

also

the

point
77

back

only

the

to

properly

to

the

allow

for

front

all

line.

waist

We

waist

connect

we

For

seams.

have

must

here
the

the

is

dress

yoke.

skirt

plain
around

79

is

80

dress
The

is also
belt

Figs. 59, 60, 6L

that

collar

and

must

.skirt,

the

lapping

proper

additional

an

allowance

the

point

Avith

yoke

This

is

belt
a

and

the
made

belt

in front

in front

of
and

of

cut-out

the

neck,

is

shirt

can

and

plaited both

plaited skirt,

Avaist. extended

back,

The

bodice

and

and

in

bodice

skirt

are

length.

The

skirt.

ties in

to

simple
have

pocket

is

shirtAvaist
any

the

desired

front.

Avaist pattern

ties in front, and

combination

pointed

and

desired.

as

Avaist line, and

from

the

combination

of the

shirt

of

starts.

Avaist pattern, Avith collar

twice

78

where

below

Avaist line.

Avith

mention

Avaist line to the

the

Fig.

extends

in order

must

we

holes, in

shoAV

we

shirt

Fig.

waist

the

length

separate piece for facing.

Fig.

Fig.

75

this

before

button

must

reaches

and
to

neatly.

mentioned

or

In

74

inches

two

buttons

made

this

both

of

the

with

place of the

C, the fundamental

"

in

line

the

on

one-half

finish
As

at

waists

the

waist.

the

belt

to

line, Avhieh

formation

shirt

draw

armhole,

with

take

j.

connect

The

point

along
to

the

one-piece shirt

about

lines

in front, and

seams

shoulder.

indicate

lines

the
From

from

in

shoulder.

full lines.
"

from

the

fiuidamental

The
to

the

to

in

shoulder

full lines

the
to

illustrates

75

The
shown

from

armhole,

"

front

basque

tlic left of the

to

the Shoulder

to

slight rounding.

Fig.
the

inch

j
slightlybov.'-shapedline

the

half

an

the

on

Seamed

shoulder, thereby giving a longer line effect.

perpendicular

the

These

back.

the

former

Pattern

61

Back

yoke pointed

and

lines
i

point

of

the

in

dart

Then

with

front

entirely to

shows

distant

line.

in

lines,the

From
width

skirt

both

to

and

Front

SYSTEM

and

plain

placed
and

desired

on

skirt

the

joined

right

side.

plain skirt.
collar

shoAATi

It is
in

PARISIAN

62

CQ

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING

SYSTEM

63

Arranging
As

chapter

wo

we

the

all know
will

Pattern

Fundamental

consider

ladies'
the

suit

changes

SYSTEM

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

64

for Suits, Jackets and

consists
necessary

of
to

skirt

plan

and
suit

Outer

Garments

jacket.
using our

In

this

mental
funda-

pattern.
of loose
will give any
kind
Our
shirtwaist
pattern as previously shown,
jacket with plaits or shirrings in front, or in the back, or in both of these parts.
resembles
In Fig. Si we
Fig. 74, the only
give a jacket of a suit, which
in
is
constructed
74
that
the
difference
Fig
only to the waist line,
being
pattern
the
All explanations and
measurements
while
are
to the hip line.
Fig. 81 is made
same
as
previously given.

REDUCED

TO

ONE

FOURTH

C
o

111

from

front
A

to

Fig.
75,

also

in

part, but

is

notice

We
of the

C
82

shows

instead

but

Pig.

81

of

piece

only 2iV inches

side

the

ns

drafting

marked

wide.

reference

exijlained with

as

lAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

the

to

back

and

pattern

to

SYSTEM

front
To

facing-,wliicli

this

in

waist

dnplicate

all additions

74.

Fig.

part put together the

the

is

make

must

we

front

the

65

line, we

same

in

as

continue

Fig.

it to

the

line.

hip

In

Fig.

line, and

the

the

from

back

75

the

side
of the

Avidth

t is

h to

part,
back

just

as

at

wide

as

notice, extends

we

the
as

Avaist
from

line
to

from

from

to

with

that

t
to

line

the

smaller

left

The

to

the

x.

"

exact

draw

about
and

"

ing
form-

and

the

at

"

the

folloAvs

other,

with

at

which

of the

curve

the

parallel to

line

connected

are

is

cut-out,

formerly,

as

at

back

our

back

side

new

1.

"

its present

our

From

the

height

either

line.

curve

meeting

same

of

making

z.

"

the

of tlie back

waist

distance

equal
heavy

tween.
be-

the shape
aft'ecting
Its position determines

thus

the

at

in

brought

narroAvness

line

that

say,

connecting

pattern.
the

82

be

without
l^osition.
of

is to

curving

Fig.

point 1 could
the i-ight or

waist

the

at

little

in

construction
The

to

r,
a

notice

We
u

hip

line.
We

notice

is broad
the

and

line.

side

front

and

81
from

seamed
and

line,or

82
the

back,

Avith

tAvo-piece

suit.
suitable

Avith

pattern

than

blade
a

shoAV

narrow

jacket

to

desired.
skirt

in

change the
formerly.

slioulder

length

any

this

extending

coiniection

cuffs, and

in to

curves

is Avider

the

shoulder

Through

part

Fig.

the

across

back

waist

that

noAV

both

in

the

liip

This

in

gi\'esus

Sleeves, pockets,
collar,

in

are

cordance
ac-

explanation previously

made.

Hyp
w

Before

-ine

of
Reduced

to

One

Fourtfh

Ave

hoAvcA'er,

Ave

jDroceed

any

Avill consider

tailor-made

collars.

further,
the

ing
mak-

PARISIAN

66

The

111

In

and

in

see

In
inch

the

Fig.

Diagrams
is 2i inches

and

collar,and

botli

for

Diagram

liiii-swe

facing

front
For

of

inch

an

it.
half

collar
below

and
O

shape

correct

"

inch

U, the

lower

"

Fig. f, shows

the

"

"

"

for
line

The

buttonholes.

will

line.

center

of the

curve

upper

fit

line

center

this

Avitli the

ing
stand-

the

exactly leaving

extra

draw

portion

S^ inehes

"

to

the

strrtcheil.

curve

"

be

in front.

li

meeting
collar

An

is

jiroper

placed J

inches
N

is

line U

on

"

above

half

way

completed by

figure.

gives

collar

is

Point

is cut

pressed

the

secure

"

The

whi"-h

cut

must

to

s]lo^^"n in the

as

the

Line

left of A.

If however,

to

collar
in position.

over

lapping

long.

tlic i-oljar.
eur\'cs

"

for

paralbd

triangular

pieces.

two

line I)

with

D,

appears

inehes

turn-down
turned

garment.

"

of

tailored

collar

oi 11

the

bend

notice

we

the

51- inches

From
the

and

be

and

an

the

collar

in

one,

in. while

rounding

the
a

on

tlie upper
for

needed

tit.

the

as

from
center

in

A,

"

Fig.

the
back

e,

top.
as

coat

same

and

same

"

Ti inehes
shown.

previously
The

with

f, A

diagram

working

below

inches

the

if made

in

must

good

same

liardv

:,'of

collar.

la]ieland

allowance

lie cut

gives
O

inches.

60

in b, that

for buttons

from

they

how

see

an

E.

and

T.

In

at 1)

with

is drawn

and

tliis

tli(" center

At

A:
and

width,

0, parallelto it, and

"

lietweeii

way

connecting

part

inch.

an

and

made.

are

inches

two

them.

front

roundi'd

and

measurements.

same

around
in

top 2 inches

we

draw

e,

perpendicularE

The

between

fold

pattern

rounded,

is i of

set

in front

is connected

front

see

also

must

top.

Intttonholes.

and
a

shap(Ml

these

same

full lines

In

In

and

the

presents

e,

poinfrd
how

is

the

in each

is made

a(bled

the

roniided

or

h'ligtliof the collar, namely

is

been

cut-out

are

half

collar

and

buttons

lines.

in

base,

lines

two

explain

upper

as

free

allowance

the

rounded

The

extra

sliow

i-

from

has

that

except

Cloaks

auxiliary lines placed

rounding

pointed

of

is the

the

collar

and

how

M"itli

same

sets

lines

Suits and

notice, they have

we

the

notici' that
half

each

on

between

pattern

wr

a.

as

SYSTEM

Tailored

collar

the

are

two

are

of these

length

The
We

li there

distance

The

apart.

Otlierwise.

I'ront.

for

standing

and

TAILORING

Collars

of

see

"we

diagrams

in

pointed

Cutting

Fig'.83

Tile

LADIES'

shawl

is 10'
above
The

eollar.
inches
it.

previously explained

The
O

curve

principle applies
for

long, E 5i

to

Fig.

lower
"

the
e.

inches

curve

crosses

shaping

from
0

on

line

A. U
is the

about

of this eollar

-J
at

PARISIAN

Fig.8 3

LADIES'

TAILORING

COLLARS.

Reduced

Reduced

to

to

One

One

Fourth

Sixth

SYSTEM

67

68

PARISIAN

In

the

diagi-aing.

lapel

well

as

Diagram
that

omit

not

for

suit

turned-down

It is

exijlaiuedin

as

e,

except that

here

same

cut-out.
in

as

order

we

to

In

e.

see

in

lines

get

longer

cutting

inches

long

turned

back

'lattern

with

darts

in

seamed

front

from

the

tight fittingand

IS

has

and

front

our

it correspond with

to make

jacket,

but

e,

more

facing

we

h.

which

also

can

cufifs. and

be

high

collar.

84

There

neck

tailor-made

SYSTEM

diagram

as

the

at

piece, in

shows

coat.

same

is the

collar

this extra

Fig. 84,
used

piece

collar

same

the

iis

TAILORING

is rounded.

collar

The

the

see

the

as

added

pointed lapel.
must

Ave

h, shows

have

we

LADIES'

F, shows

is also

shoulder.

the

line

Either

The

front

marking
be

can

for

cut-out

front

fundamental

the

for

used

neck

the

in

the

lines

dart

to

pattern.

fi'ont is

the

lines.

the

always

starting point of

the

collar.
G

shows

thr

side, and

II tin' back

of

fundamental

the

in

pattern

lines.
TIu' waist
with

"

and

II is marked

with

lines, and

the

hip

lines.
tlie center

Along
wide

for

the

and

being

slit if

back

in H

intend

we

parts of Fig. 84 F

All
one

lini' in F

(II) inch

one-half

make

to

"

notice

we

and

front

in

below

the

waist

line

tlap

inch

one

one.

II

without

are

and

facing

extra

an

which

scams

explained

as

add:

must

we

in

Fig.

81

needed.
R

and

Fig.

N
85

is

patterns of the two-piece sleeve

the

shows

IS-inch

an

pattern of

waist

the

to

pattern

are

jacket semi-ilttingin

front

facing, and
lines

in

line

"

with

used

back

in this
and

jacket.

loose

and

II show

collar

and

the

in front.
fundamental

lapel

likewise

so

marked.
F
and

tile

shows

the

inch

extra

right angle cutting through

and

the

with

previously given patterns,

in

II the

lieen

is

pocket.

made

inches
with

As

readily

see

how

distance

the

is
iiei'iiendicular

shows

enlf, and

and

in

loose

long, extending
belt

allowance

same

explained, gives

lieen

previously explained
Fig. 86,

18

piece, the

back

previously

has
D

we

front.

starting point of the collar

also

we

allowed

of
in
the

secui'e

two

inches,

accordance
loose

front

A.

In
which

the

to

pattern

in

added

from

shown

fundamental

one-half

the

10

pockets.

Fig.

two

looser

collar, tlie

8.3

the

of

inches

at

the

Avaist

line,

back.

measurements

for

which

liave

or

coat.

It

e.

be

jacket

to

inclies

below

used
the

either

for

waist

line.

suit
Our

illustration

is
is

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

69

R
/
'

/
/

/
/

/ Fig.84

"-"

I
'

;
\

y.

"

]"
I
I

Reduced

to

One

Sixth

PARISIAN

70

We
lines

in F

see

and

this

as

parts of

unit
for

In
the

down

made

in H

which

is

the

front

larger

than

the

in

width

The

shows

by

the

In

11

AVe

the

and

have

we

and

in

added

(2)

two

allowance

extra

an

be

to

have

the

we

addition

for

either

cut

the

also

D,

pattern.

back.

center

in

lines

parts of the sleeve

upper

piece.

could

also

be

and

shoulder,

as

the

waist

notice

side

and

for

used

the

suit

pointed lapel is

fundanu'ntal

pointinl and

the

larger lapel,I

from

slanting in

the

rounded

or

and

both

collar

to

waist

line.

of

inch

an

waist

the

line.

illustrated.

as

and

the

to

pattern

separately as

cated
indi-

pattern joined and

also

cut

are

front.
show

and

under

in

Fig.

pattern for the upper

and

and
the

83

liack
waist

of

sleeves

tailor-made

replica of the
given

side
in at

narrowed

l)aek
upper

are

the

which

the

the

we

in the

of

sqiiare

lines

the

of

patterns,
made

and

shoulder,

with

line,

separately.

fold at the

the

on

constructions

cut

the

conform

to

seamed

be

waist

the

to

former

each

lines

the

armliole

from

armhole

regular pattern,

of which
The

are

I the

and

small

line

cut-out;

the

seam

seam

lines

in the

seam

see

waist

shown.

the

can

construction

the

neck

nndersleeve
each

on

by

front

the

must

the

cut

in the

lines

is marked

semi-fittingjacket

cut-out,

bottom

inch

back

and

and

be

and

allowance

in

neek

At

should

an

previously

In

in front

from

necessary

upper

shows

Fig. 87, A
The

the

|-of

with

coat.

waist,

line

exjilaiucd in

separated by

allowance

at

part

as

front, F

also

of

unit

one

seamed

the

and

conform

waist

begin

garment

straight back,

the allowance
to

this

are

show

In

finished.

allowed

the

and

lines

Avhen

of

length

have

we

at

of

order

the

the

to

pattern

the

on

collar

have

we

is cut

of Avidth

lapel and

look

these

how

show

fundamental

SYSTEM

liuttonholes.

tailored

The

the

scale

and

buttons

and

garment

our

TAILORING

LADIES'

collar,

line.

the

the

regular fundamental
and

measurements

tern
pat-

the

struction
con-

e.

lower

parts of

the

two-piece

is also

sleeve

given.
Fig.

of

composed
Fig.

83

The

to

lines

of

the
to

is cut
in

Fig.

additioiud
the

facing.

in
81

2^
one

must

allowance

inches

jacket

of

Fig.SU h.

to

tlu' waist

shows

the

usual

lines

these

between

allowance
N

collar

in

brea.sted

double

lines

the

distance

shown

standing

the

In

d.
N

shows

SS

for

piece with

the
F.

also

be

made.

of

2h

inches

and

with
and

line

is
If

as

turned-down

have

addition

the

from

the

double-breasted
6

the
we

turned-down

plain

collar

portion

fundamental
the

line

collar
marks

of

tern.
pat-

jjointa.
tional
addi-

an

effect.

cut

separately.

tlie

double-breasted

previously explained

front
effect
must

facing
is

also

as

desired
be

made

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

"

"

r"

"

~j

Fig.85

Nl

Reduced

to

One

SiXTH

71

72

PARISIAN

LADIES'

SYSTEM

TAILORING

Reduced

to

One

Sixth

PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING

SYSTEM

73

74

PARISIAN

II

and

the

lines, but

liy the

allowance

waist

line, for

of

SYSTEM

parts is

these

in

phieed

patterns

tlieir

separately

cut

relatively
indicated

as

notice

we

downward

Avith

outlined

flare

ripple or

waistline

the

from

lines

back

in the

in

shown

as

in

F, H

and

an

slanting from

Fig. B,

should

the

desire

we

same.

of the

Any

Fig. 89.
cuffs

the

diagrams

The
fundamental

pattern

ai'mhole

and

the

from

the

of

the

at

fold

made

83

d.

the

front

in

heavy

addition

collar, large pockets, deep

and

in

line

lines the

to

waist,

separately, and

usual

is the

and

measures

inches

lines
for

allowance

above

the

addition

from

the

that

this

G.

to

from

The

along

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both

at

wide
in

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the

lower
bottom
the

top

lines

the

seam.

Avaist line, and

the

pattern

front

the

is 15

the

waist

that

second

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dart

inch

an

down.

These

piece

one

line
to

indicate

"

marked

waist

the

in

be

fidl

of

This

side.
bottom

gathei'ed to

inches

and

also

pattern

from

to

in

lines, and

48

back

pattern, and

the

along

length

the

along

inches

mark

lines, the

shirtwaist

in the

as

21

lines

part should

piece.

measures

===

points

side with

with

the
on

V.

and

lines

from

the

dition
ad-

is cut

neck,

the
N

tin:' addition

the

full

from

an

buttonholes.

to

inch

E
E
on

long

from

each

131

inches

show
each

in two

pieces according

Figs.

to

S3

collar.

down

and

parallelto S

are

3^ inches.

2^ and

inches

inch

an

lines, making

and

of

15

each

'[ of

cut

89.

one-pieceturned

distances

are

pieces ";of

be

could

coat

pattern II Pig.

respective
F

this

of

have

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lines

liutton

down

any

"

waist

after

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in

extra

the

i inch

along

in

see

between

extends

armhole

collar

R and
P'rom

desired.

of

garment

pattern being 54 inches.

of

In
the

The
and

we

sleeve
regular fundamental
to fit the
enlarged armhole.

The

length

length

line

in

the

show

for

side.

is cut

side

and

shown,

as

in

turned

line, and

with

one

lines

the

the

from

point

front

see

we

addition

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show

the

at

seams.

short

The

fundamental

for

are

width
In

with

downward

dart

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on

allowances

the

cloak

waist

distance

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see

is allowed

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the

to H.

second

We

and

neck

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l)ottom.

from

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piece

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waist

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to

From

front

shows

the

to

pattern

Vie used

belt.

and

the

could

patterns formerly shown

length by simply prolonging

at

fundamental
each

of 2-^ inches

extra

24

TAILORING

lines.
Furthermore

the

show

again

positions in

LADIES'

connected

and

end

long

of

collar

correct

for

possible cut
side between

shown

perpendiculars

the

as

and

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S.

serve

in
are

the
drawn

measurement.

if
as

desired.
allowances

figure.
to

The
The
for

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

75

76

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING

SYSTEM

77

PARISIAN

78

The
ueck

bottom

could

cut

could

to

also

standing

also

the

the

neck

which

the

allows

upper

portion

freer

garment

back

seam.

We

shows

]M

and

This

back

marked

the

and
the

front

is the

line,

the

top

from

2J

lines.
the

to

the

along

waist
the

length

inches

waist
E

to

bottom
E

from

line from
S.

"

line.

lar
regu-

These

from
S

to

fundamental

the

to

the

to

S,

to

tions
addi-

two

P.

to

AVhile the

lOJ inches

and

along

to

gathered

pattern in

extend

i inch

lines.

below

the

waist

seam.

higher

inch

an

than
25

measures

the

at

the

line

allow

to

for

inches.

from

top

waist

the

of

center

the

back

the

addition

to

sleeves

from

The

full

the

waist

lines

Hues

:=^==

the

to

are

single-breasted coat

tailor-made
front

in

and

lines.

inches

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side

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in

shows

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in

addition

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together. They

cut

i of

is

length.

shows

addition

is 36

front

with

below

along

the

at

for

from

armluile

Fig. 91.

seam.

coat

entire

the

in full lines

waist

the

addition

are

fold

the

I show

wider

the

and

inches

251

parts

that

]iack

center

and

allowance.

seam

the

bottom

notice

C.

to

on

The

belt

in

pieces

two

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extended

6 inches

measures

is cut

part from

pockets, cuffs,

the

in

above

measures

side

and

the

coat.

portion is

the

and

buttonholes,

extended

for

from

entire

R, and

to

with

pattern with

double-breasted

part

necessary

collar,
and

facing

for

allowed

part, and

the

and

bottom,
6

attached

and

buttons

inches

seamed

back, whieli

from

inches
the

shoulder

to

through

bottom.
in

front

and

cuffs.

tlie two

and

54

or

pieces

of

front, the

the

buttonholes.
is cut

on

the

fold

as

indicated, is

A.
d. b

where

and

is attached.

notice

we

and

waist

piece

The

portion

coat

collar

fundamental

cut-out,

upper

liottom

sailor

regular

for

lower

double-breasted

line, this being tlie allowance

the

fittingcollar

fashion.

tlie lower

and

facing, and

addition

Diagram

for

better

different

front

the

foi- buttons

the

in

line

addition

The

the

gives

SYSTEM

separate pieces.

to

have

additional

the

coat

shows

shows

are

The

waist

The

the

the

collar

At

and

this

be

Fig. 90.

the

cut

could

be

We

below

curve

TAILORING

movement.

We

to

LADIES'

and

In

all five

to

cut

length being

show

pieces

the

of this pattern

this pattern, should

54

inches.

of

construction

we

we

the

cuff.

notice

desire

the
42-ineli

lines wliich

length

coat,

the

indicate
whole

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

Front

SYSTEM

Facing

79

80

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING

SYSTEM

the

Along
L

inches.

7|

Avhole

of

facing,
the

pieces,

from

inches

made

the

We

again

of

f
stated.

the

front,

made

inch

an

At

for

extra

make

side

seamed

the

back

and

inches

10|

collar

wider

fact

in

both

that

all

for

in

front

the

deeper

and

either

in

to

to

the

0,

164

B.

to

tailor-

regular

front

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wider

in

back.

patterns

our

from

and

sleeve,

mark

inches

from

inches

16^

and

R,

to

48

or

made

are

cutting

the

without

pattern

in

or

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an

inch

the

is

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center

required.

for

made

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seam

cut

front

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Along

all

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in

extra

otherwise

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two

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be

must

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heavy
additional

an

bulk

the

is

desired.

allowed

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must

shoulders,

of

When

to

the

effect.

material.

the

cutting

therefore

these

to

the

and

inches,

54

bottom,

length

follows

as

and

the

to

any

still

impress

to

fold.

inches

lines

one

from

back

measure

from

inches,

15

the

double-breasted

fundamental

The

wish

the

from

regular

lines

and

and

seams,

the

collar.

parts,

is

inches

the

front

made

bottom

in

coat

54

be

will

to

and

inches,

15

garment

same

on

is

could

13

show

cut

coat

the

C,

to

lapel

back,

of

and

it

but

width

seamed

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this

of

lines,

The

the

From

yards.

the

which

of

length

and

to

this

of

be

about

81

SYSTEM

follows

as

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width

will

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are

part

half

shows

latter

The

widths

side

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the

92,

Fig.
front

the

Thns

sweep

the

bottom

inches,

16|

to

TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

of

material.

weight

material

allowance

is

of

for

used

of

an

inch

jackets
at

and

all

seams

"coats,

to

it

take

is

care

necessary
of

the

LADIES'

PARISIAN

82

The

pattern

Cutting of
Fig.

9o,

Fig.

93

shows

laid

shows

along

perpendictdar

to

Kinds

All

us

of

in
and

"

each

wiiich
lines

other

A
as

"

C.

SYSTEM

the

According

Capes

cape

TAILORING

we

the

These

make

can

front

lines

and
are

made

Fundamental

desired

any

back
with

of

the
the

Pattern

length.
fundamental
tailors'

square

previously explained.

Fig.93

,i4

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1^"

'

\
".

I
I
\

Front

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REDUCED

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TO

One

fourth

front

The
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unit

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placed along
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unit

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TAILORING

LADIES'

PARISIAN

from

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at

in such

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width

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width

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"

SYSTEM

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A

Tlie

its lowest

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position

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"

83

the

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and

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line

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B.

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next

highest point
shoulder

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c,

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;

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Fig. 93,

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for

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/
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pattern

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84

PARISIAN

We

mark

next

LADIES'

from

and

to

e.

point.

In

the

The

any

center

distance

line neek

tliree ditTerent

the

SYSTEM

front, tlien tlie desired

and

eut-out.

tlirough these

and

flaring cape

more

draw

fignre

lines

lengtliof

tlic desired

tlie side fi'oni tlie slioulder

TAILORING

tlie desired

semi-eirele

iDoints a
lengths

the

of

back

is desired,

desired,

this

as

"

is laid

onr

line

will

give

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lis

out

the

on

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pivoted

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to

the

front

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one.

and

The

of

cape

the desired

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away

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darts

form

is reached.

making.

the

shown

pattern

part joining the back

sleeve

to

with

high standing

corresponding parts

together
The

same

instead

front is cut

length of

the

sleeve.

in the
are

sewed

are

front

ignored

mental
fundain

cape

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piece

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extended

cape

shown
of

Fig.

separate

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94

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Fig.
of

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96.

these

in

by

an

are

highest point of

g.
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in

with
be

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demonstrated

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towards

can

construction

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k

second

cape

Cutting along
us

material.

from

length

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lines.

the

the

set-in, which

The

collar

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shorter

shawl

center

lines.

sleeve

96

back

in

Fig. 95 gives a

Fig.

the

the

as

marked

given

are

of

length

with

length of

in

one

so-called

Fig. 95.

will

give

piece; the
sleeve

as

PARISIAN

For

Professional

In

examining
notice

These

lines

The

grading

top of

III"

IV)

or

indicate

upper

diminish

gradually

36

and

and

both

in

in width

heavy

lines.

arm-halls

in

in

to

smaller

by

marked

figure

indicated

as

by

C.

"

different

the

back-seam,

arm

to

indicated

points

which

lines

arm-ball

respectively larger
elbow

for

pattern

lines from

lower

in the

apart
the

sleeve

upper

make

higher

inch

an

the

construction

and

B,

"

85

HI

lines, we
A

SYSTEM

Designers

Table

(See
Table

TAILORING

LADIES'

sizes

width

toward

of

respectively f

are

and

but

length,
in the

point

the

at

underarm

seam.

In
C

the

under

in

The
the

gradings

same

in

as

The

diminishing

of

the

fundamental

our

in

highest

the

"

of

point

lowest

and

the

"

arm
under-

point.
" of

and

is allowed,

inch

an

length.
increases

cut-out
to

pattern

lines.

heavy

and

apart for width,

for

underarm

the

elbow

inch

an

sleeve

iipper

of

curve

lowest

and

are

the

pattern is marked

36

respectively

highest

and

cut-out.

the

sleeve
mark

lines

the

meet

in

enlarging, and
lines

grading

in

decreases

of the

back

arm
under-

seam.

Table

IV
The

front

Note

the

our

to

S.

pattern for

fundamental

full size 36

figure is

here

shown

lines.

iu

through
front

and

the

for

guide

side

part

grading

In
the

sides

back

the

By adding
have

whole

increased

pattern

two-inch

48

the

we

lines

of

the

the

half

our

size of the

"

"

point

the

grading
0

and

to those

to

In

grading.

P.

larger

than

"

pattern.
in

deducted

or

"

from

is the

the

lar
regu-

"

apart.
the

on

the

diminished

obtain

are

being guided by
distances

inch

an

D. and
in

added
N

36, and

^/^,.of

are

and

guides

as

is either
lines

than

smaller

grading

or

are

inch

an

grading

same

used

the

see

lines

the

of

of

/i^

we

grading

construction

we

'

sizes

to

lines

{' to

points

from

These

the

The

36.

lines
F

and
at

In

to

of

'/-^^of

average

line
front

pattern

pattern,

inch.

all

inch

an

apart,

B.

"

side
"/j,.,

one

as

'Vni,and
Doubling

patterns

back
this

'/,,.,

graded

are

the

on
on

scale.
The

table

bust

measure.

includes

also

schedule

of

all necessary

from

measurements

30

Remarks
As

all

seams

in the

under

and
In

shoulders,
In
for

patterns
upper

are

and

without

made

inches

li

sleeves, and

under

allow

must

we

seams,

in

the

of

inch

an

length

for all

for

turning

facing.
the
and

basque f
center

addition

to

of

inch

an

is allowed

back,
this, to the

single-breasted effect, and

The usual | of an inch

on

an

allowance

center

front

where

from
allowance

to

all
of

an

J of

an

allowance

2i inches

is made

seams,

at

except
inch

the

front,

is made.

of li

inches

for double-breasted

is made

garments.

for cuffs, collars, pockets, etc.