Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Cosmetic &
Toiletry Development
John Woodruff
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
to perfume
to clean
to protect
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
To perfume
Perfume
Toilet waters
Aromatherapy preparations
Bath additives
Shower gels
Deodorants
Body lotions
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
These products
should
not penetrate the skin
but perfume
compounds
including essential
oils may do so.
To clean
Soap
Syndet bars
Bath additives
Shower gels
Cleansing emulsions
Scrubs
Cleansing masks
Shampoos
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
Decorative cosmetics
Foundation creams
These products should
Blushers
not penetrate the skin.
Lipsticks & eye shadows
Fake tans
Cover fine lines & wrinkles
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
To protect
Sun protection
Barrier creams
Antiseptic washes
Anti-oxidants*
Protect immune system*
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
Moisturise
Occlusive film
Humectants
NMF*
Anti-oxidants*
Support immune system*
Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
*Generally these
products need to
penetrate the S.C.
Deodorants
Antiperspirants
Cleansing*
e.g.washing
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
10
Field of application
The field of application of cosmetics is to
one or more of the following:
the epidermis
the hair system
the nails
the lips
the external genital organs
the teeth
the mucous membranes of the oral cavity
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
11
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Field of
Application
anywhere
visible, with
or without
swimming costumes
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
12
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
13
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Brief
Or
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
14
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Packaging
Already identified and selected as the
ideal pack form to contain and deliver the
product.
Or
To be decided!
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
15
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Or
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
16
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Or
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
17
Tip
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
18
Tip
Mucous membranes
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
19
Tip
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
20
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
21
Sources of Information
cosmeticsdesign-europe.com
Chemidex.com
Cosmeticsbusiness.com
Suppliers representatives & web sites
Trade press & relevant articles
Conference presentations
Patent literature
Text books
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
22
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
23
The Regulations
Ignore at your peril
EU 76/768/EEC The 7th Amendment
Customer-specific requirements
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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The Regulations
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
25
Mucous membranes
Be aware
More prone to irritant reactions
Restrictions on colours
Restrictions on preservatives
More stringent microbial rules
Only ingestible products i.e.those with
A.D.I., should be applied to the lips
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
27
Particularly affecting
Colours
Preservatives
Antiperspirants
Sunscreens
Also
Labelling
Names of ingredients
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
29
Colin Hession
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Tip
Think commercially
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
31
Tips
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
32
Tips
Use laboratory
mixing equipment
which represents
that available
in the factory
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
33
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information
EU cosmetic regulations
The global marketplace
Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
34
Regulations
Type of product
pH of product
Leave-on or Wash-off?
pH < 6 / pH > 7
Other ingredients
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Tip
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Formulation Techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
38
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Cosmetic functions
to perfume
to clean
to protect
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
39
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
40
Claims substantiation
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
41
Product form
Packaging
Claim
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Moisturise
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
43
A Basic Guide to
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Cost
Supporting the claim
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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To keep in
good
condition
Wash
Scrub
Tape stripping!
Peels including enzymes e.g. Papain
Alpha hydroxy acids AHAs
Fruit acids
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Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid
Aqua (Water)
Citric Acid
Lactic Acid
Malic Acid
Propylene Glycol
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Possible choice
Glycolic acid
Plus proprietary mixture
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Parameters
pH 4 5
Electrolytes
Low oil content
Penetration required
Possible forms
o/w emulsion
foaming mousse
light scrub
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o/w emulsion
Urea or ethoxydiglycol
Or soften SC with emollients
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3.00%
Glyceryl stearate
1.00%
PEG-100 stearate
3.00%
Caprylic / capric triglyceride
1.00%
Paraffinum liquidum
Aqua to 100%
0.05%
Disodium EDTA
2.50%
Glycolic acid
3.00%
Mixed fruit acids
5.00%
Ethoxydiglycol
0.50%
Bisabolol
0.20%
Xanthan gum
Fragrance
Preservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl paraben
pH adjusted to 3.8 4.3
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To keep in
good condition
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To keep in
good
condition
Sunscreen Actives
Organic screens
Less expensive
Well known properties & technology
But possible irritation
Possibly unstable
Product / pack interactions
Inorganic
Safe
Broad spectrum
But whitening on skin
Drag on application
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Dependent on
Required SPF
Is UVA protection required?
Intended market legislation?
Intended vehicle & pack form
Clear gel
o/w emulsion
w/o emulsion
Oil
Spray
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Possible answer
Organic UV absorber
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ZnO approx 8
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3.00%
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
2.00%
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
5.00%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
1.50%
Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane
0.50%
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
12.50%
Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil
3.50%
Cera Alba (Beeswax)
3.50%
Sorbitan Palmitate
Aqua (Water) to 100%
2.00%
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
2.00%
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica
3.50%
Polysorbate 20
0.30%
Sodium Lactate
Fragrance / Preservatives
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To keep in
good
condition
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Possible formulation
Truffles
Champagne
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To keep in
good
condition
Anti- oxidants
Vitamin E - Tocopherol
Vitamin C Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compounds
Ferulic acid
Superoxide dismutase
BHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds
Numerous plant extracts e.g.
Lycopene from tomatoes
Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract
Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract
Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract
Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extract
Salix nigra (Willow) bark extract
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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To keep in
good
condition
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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To keep in
good
condition
There is a water
- gradient from the lower levels of the
skin to its surface where it evaporates as transepidermal
water loss (TEWL)
There is a decrease in moisture content from the base
layers to the surface (70%- >10%)
As skin ages it loses more moisture but all skin may be
subject to increased moisture loss through
environmental conditions
Moisturising is the basic requirement for nearly all skin
care products
Moisturise
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturise
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Moisturise
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1,2,6-Hexanetriol
Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate
Lactose
PEG-8
Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium
PEG-9
Chloride
2,3-Butanediol
Chitosan PCA
Acetamide MEA
Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan CopolymerLupine Amino Acids
PEG-90
Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
Choline Chloride
Lysine PCA
Polyamino Sugar Condensate
Adenophora Stricta Root Extract
Copper PCA
Maltitol
Polyglyceryl Sorbitol
Agarose
Corn Glycerides
Manganese PCA
Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
Alanyl Glutamine
Diglycerin
Mannitol
Polyglycerylmethacrylate
Albatrellus Confluens (Mushroom) Extract
Dimethyl Imidazolidinone
MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk
Potassium Lactate
Albumen Extract
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Menthyl PCA
Potassium PCA
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides
Erythritol
Methoxy PEG-10
PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
Algae
Ethoxydiglycol Oleate
Methoxy PEG-100
PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
Aloe Andongensis Extract
Ethylhexyl PCA
Methoxy PEG-16
PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine
Aloe Andongensis Leaf Juice
Fructose
Methoxy PEG-40
PPG-6-Sorbeth-245
Aloe Arborescens Leaf Protoplasts Glucamine
Methyl Gluceth-10
PPG-6-Sorbeth-500
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Gluconic Acid
Methyl Gluceth-20
Propylene Glycol
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Glucosamine
Orange Peel Wax
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Amidinoproline
Glucose
Panthenol
Saccharide Isomerate
Anserine
Glucose Glutamate
PCA
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Arginine PCA
Glucuronic Acid
PEG-10
Sesame Amino Acids
Bacillus/Rice Bran Extract/Soybean Extract
Glycereth-12
Ferment Filtrate
PEG-10 Propylene Glycol
Sodium Aspartate
Backhousia Anisata Leaf Extract
Glycereth-20
PEG-100
Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate
Banksia Spinulosa Flower Extract
Glycereth-26
PEG-12
Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate
Benzyl Hyaluronate
Glycereth-7
PEG-135
Sodium Glucuronate
Bidens Pilosa Extract
Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate
PEG-14
Sodium Lactate
Bifida Ferment Extract
Glycerin
PEG-15 Butanediol
Sodium PCA
Bifida/Soybean Extract Ferment
Glycol
PEG-16
Sorbeth-20
Bis-hydroxyethyl Tocopherylsuccinoylamido
Hexacosyl
Hydroxypropane
Glycol
PEG-18
Sorbeth-30
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Hydrogenated Honey
PEG-180
Sorbeth-40
Bittern
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate PEG-2 Lactamide
Sorbeth-6
Bixa Orellana Seed Oil
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
PEG-20
Sorbitol
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PEG-20 Acetate
PEG-200Copolymer
Sucrose
Black Strap Powder
Butyl Ethyl Propanediol
Hydroxyethyl Sorbitol
PEG-240
TEA-Lactate
C30-45 Alkyl Methicone
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey
PEG-32
TEA-PCA
Calcium Fructoborate
Inositol
PEG-4
Trehalose Dihydrate
Calcium PCA
Lactamide MEA
PEG-40
Urea
Caprylyl Glycol/Glycerin/Polyacrylic Acid
Lactamidopropyl
Copolymer Trimonium ChloridePEG-55
Urea-D-Glucuronic Acid
Carnitine HCI
Lactic Acid
PEG-6
Xylitol
Caryocar Coriaceum Seed Oil
PEG-60
Xylitylglucoside
Cellulose Succinate
PEG-75
Yeast Polysaccharides
Moisturising
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Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
The brief
Target skin type & area of application
Claims
The cost
Petrolatum / glycerin etc are cheap
Ceramides / yeast ferments etc are
expensive
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturise
If a gel
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturise
If a gel
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturise
Carbomer
pH 5.5- 7.5
No electrolytes
Water- soluble actives
Chelate ions
Protect against UV
Cold mixing possible
High shear not required
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturising gel
Carbomer based
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Moisturise
If a lotion
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturise
If a cream
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturising emulsions
Aqueous Phase
Oil phase
Emulsifier system
Rheological modifier
Preservative system
Active ingredients
Fragrance
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturising emulsions
Aqueous Phase
Humectant / Moisturiser CTFA makes no difference but JW
thinks of humectants as hygroscopic materials used as much
to keep the product moist as for moisturising skin.
Humectants
Glycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol
(PEG) & various sugars
Moisturisers
Innumerable 398 from Acetamide MEA to Zymomonas
Ferment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water!
Actives
Most actives are water-soluble
Preservative system
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Cascading theory
means select a
number of emollients
so that the sensorial
feel is spread
throughout the time
of application.
Cosmetics should feel
good!
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
76
33
20
32
9
31
30
29
3
28
8
12
11
13
10
21 23 24
14
17
18
15
19
caring, rich
27
26
25
light,
light, fresh
fresh
24
16
23
22
25
21
22
20
19
1
18
17
2
10
viscosity [mPas]
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
100
polar
non-polar
77
Moisturising emulsions
Oil Phase
Rancidity
Oil phase incompatibilities e.g.
Waxes crystallising
Dimethicone / Mineral oil
Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Does
it stay homogenous when cooled?
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturising emulsions
Anionic
o/w
More commonly associated with cleansing
surfactants
SLS - irritant
TEA-Stearate OK for cleansers / not leave-on
Potassium cetyl phosphate forms liquid
crystals, worth attention
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
79
Moisturising emulsions
Cationic
w/o
More commonly associated with hair
conditioning
Irritancy concerns
However at least one material supplier is
promoting their use with the following claims:
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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Moisturising emulsions
Cationic
Excellent emulsification behaviour
Light emulsions, matte finish
Powdery, smooth and dry skin feel after
application
Low greasiness, stickiness or tack
Inherent moisturisation
Substantive to skin
Extraordinary and unique skin feel
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Moisturising emulsions
Non-ionic
o/w or w/o
Selection using HLB system possible
Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated pair
Alkoxylated alcohols
e.g. Ceteareth
- 20
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
Moisturising emulsions
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Moisturising emulsions
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Moisturising emulsions
Cetearyl glucoside
Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivate
Sucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearate
Sorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurate
Cetearyl polyglucoside
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Cetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2
dipolyhydroxystearate
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Moisturising emulsions
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Moisturising emulsions
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Moisturising emulsions
Oil Phase
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Moisturising emulsions
Rheology modifier
Xanthan gum
Minerals e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / Laponite
Carbomer
Acrylates copolymer
Sclerotium Gum
Mannan
Modified starch
Gum tragacanth
Alginates
Silica
Cellulose derivatives
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Moisturising emulsions
Preservative system
Affected by other ingredients
pH
Market trends
Active ingredients
Affected by marketing claims
Other ingredients
pH
Fragrance
No Fragrance / Perfume / Essential Oils
Affected by named allergens
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john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
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DLC Question
A major brand of moisturising lotion lists its
ingredients as
Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinum
liquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl
Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100,
Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance,
Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin,
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium
EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4.
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DLC Question
Claims are: Softens and smoothes for radiant skin.
Light, Non
- Greasy Formula.
Dermatologist Tested.
Non
- Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores).
Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin with
immediate surge of active moisture to soothe dryness
without greasy feel.
Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essential
fluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple.
Restores- Works like the essential fluids abundant in
young skin to help restore skin to its natural beauty and
diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
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DLC Question
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DLC Question
Aqua
Cetyl Palmitate
Glycerin
Paraffinum liquidum
Petrolatum
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Hydroxystearate
Stearic Acid
Steareth 100
Dimethicone
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Fragrance
Potassium Hydroxide
DMDM Hydantoin
Iodopropynyl
Butylcarbamate
Tetrasodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Red 4
95
DLC Question
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