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A REPORT ON THE
INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP
WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential.
In content and focus in problem solving.
In teams for effective performance.
In intellect & its power.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities.
To nurture talent to build leaders for tomorrows
corporation.
To reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual
business contributions.
[ARVIND LIMITED]
(23.05.2011 16.07.2011)
WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavours.
Of mutual benefit and prosperity.
SUBMITTED BY
PRASHANT GUPTA
TEXTILE DESIGN 2008-2012
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, NEW DELHI
www.arvindmills.com
CONTENTS
acknowledgement
company profile
organisational chart
prodoctional capacities & capabilities
product range and customers
materials and manufacturing process
design and developement
quality assurance
costing
marketing and distribution
csr
small scale projects
- brand studies
- collections
- research on checks
& stripes
www.arvindmills.com
Acknowledgement
Any project requires the efforts of many people and this work was no different. I
extend my heartfelt thanks to Mr. Subhanish Malhotra, H.R. Shirtings, Arvind Limited, Santej Plant, Gandhinagar and his colleagues Mr. Keyur Patel and Mr. Jimmy
Devid for enlightening our mind towards specific process details regarding spinning,
weaving and processing of shirting department at Arvind Limited with their valuable
supervision.
I would also like to thank to Mr. Amit of weaving department, Mr. Saikat of dyeing
department, Mr. Shubhanjan of finishing section, Mr. Jigesh of bleaching section and
Mr. Suresh of printing department for extending their arms to provide us the technical
knowledge with full support and help. I am very much thankful to Mr. Vijay Mehta,
Manager- Design & Development, an alumni of NIFT, Delhi and Mr. Sanjay Suman
for his guardian like support without which it would be very difficult for me to adjust
in an entirely different place and atmosphere.
I cannot forget to extend my thanks to Ms. Neha Singh, the faculty in charge of the
industrial visit for arranging such learning session and my colleague Arpita Jain for
his support as well as the full co-ordination during the visit.
Prashant Gupta
Textile Design 2008-2012
NIFT, New Delhi.
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COMPANY PROFILE
ARVIND LIMITED
Arvind limited, the company which
now holds a position globally was
initiated by the three brothers
Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and
Chimanbhai in 1931, when India
began boycotting fine and superfine
fabrics made in Britain. The Lalbhais
reasoned the demand for the need
made of Indian fine and superfine
fabrics and started Arvind limited with
a share of Rs.2,525,000 shares, with
52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in
those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for
dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing.
The company outgrew all its competitors within a few years and today it is one of the largest
companies, with a share of $500 million, it soon ventured into the following markets.
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Arvind today manufactures fabric for the following brand names:In house brands
Licensed Brands
Excalibur
Flying machine
Ruff and tuff
New Port university
Tommy Hilfiger
Nautica
Lee
Wrangler
Wrangler Hero
Riders
Now, Mr. Sanjay S.Lalbhai grandson of Late. Shri.Kasturbhai is the chairman and managing director
of the company. Arvind has a worldwide network today, with offices in New York, London, Mauritius,
Bangladesh, Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore and Ahmedabad, Arvind has truly become global.
The Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931. With the best
of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having chosen to
invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. Today, The
Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million) Lalbhai Group.
Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its
attention on select core products. Such a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the
global textile arena. With its presence across the textile value chain, the company endeavors to be a
one-stop shop for leading garment brands.
Forevision and Technology has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the
world, and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate. Arvind is already making its presence felt in Shirtings, Knits and Khakhis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready
to wear Garments world over.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, of offering garment packages, to its
international and domestic customers.
With the Indian economy poised for rapid growth, Arvind brands with its international licenses of Lee,
Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting its vision on becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.
Arvind Mills Ltd is one of Indias largest composite manufacturer of textiles, denims, shirtings, knits
and khakis. It has today acquired fame and position as one of the foremost denim and jeans manufacturer of the world
Page no. - 5
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Arvind Shirtings
Arvind shirting is a composite unit with spinning, weaving, processing and finishing. The fibers
processed here are cotton and blends of cotton and polyester, cotton and nylon, cotton and lycra.
Top quality cotton is imported from various places:VARIETY
Karo
Gizza-76
Acala
Pima
REGION
West Africa
Egypt
Sudan
Australia
QUALITY
Long and Strong
Extra Long and Strong
Long and Strong
Extra Long and Strong
SPINNING:- Its the process of converting fibres into yarn, for this fibres have to go through a
number of processes
Blow Room
Carding
Pre Draw Frame
Comber
Post Draw Frame
Fibres
Speed Frame
Ring Frame
Winding
TFO
Singeing
Rewinding.
WINDING
SINGEING
BLOW ROOM
RE-WINDING
CARDIND
RING FRAME
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DYEING:-
Inspection:- Fabric inspection is examination of every yard of fabric as the fabric moves slowly
across a lighted inspection table. Significant flaws are noted and the general condition of the fabric is
determined and recorded.
Inspection
Grey Mending
Finish Mending
Rolling
Batching.
Weft
Winding
Dyeing
Rewinding
Warping
Sizing
Drawing
Weaving
Warp
Sec.Warping
2. Package Dyeing:- In this the yarn is dyed in cheese form. There are cylindrical stands onto
which the packages are arranged and it is immersed in closed system.
Sectional Warping:- The pattern
for a fabric requires yarn of
specific length, number, and
color. These are wound on the
warp beam in this section.
Sizing:-The yarns from warp
beam are passed through size
solution, this makes the yarns
coarse so that they can resist
friction and abrasion during
weaving and other processing.
Drawing:-The free ends from
the beam are pulled vertically
and clamped on the brush beam.
They are combed slightly and
fitted on drawing in machine.
WARP SIZING
DENTING
DRAFTING
INSPECTION
GREY MENDING
DE - SIZING
FABRIC SINGEING
DYED PACKAGES
AIR JET LOOM
Page no. - 9
MERCERIZATION
www.arvindmills.com
Finishing:- Finishing process are the value addition treatments given to the fabric to make it
more attractive and appealing. There are two types of finishes
1. Chemical
2. Mechanical.
Stentering
C.P.T.
Trough
Squeezing
Straightening
Drying
Batching
ORGANISATIONAL CHART
ARVIND LIMITED
Sanforising
Stentering:- The fabric is made to pass through a solution of finishing chemicals thus wetting it.
Then it is stretched and dried. While stretching the yarns are aligned parallel.
HR Deptt.
Stores
FINISHING MACHINE
Chemical Finish
STENTER
Spinning
Weaving
processing
Engineering
& Finishing
Order Management
& Documentation
Production
Purchases
Production
Order Management
Sampling
Documentation
Invoicing
CALENDERING
DRYING
Page no. - 11
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The plant has an integrated manufacturing facility from yarn to finished fabrics under one roof. The Shirting division is committed to world class quality products, with the installation of the latest technology and
continuous quality improvement program.
It is equipped with state of the art technology right from spinning of the yarn to final processing and testing of the high quality fabric. It is equipped to spin compact yarn as well as slub yarns. The state of the art
machinery includes Yarn-singeing machines, Computerized yarn-dyeing machines, automatic drawing-in
machines, etc.
The testing laboratories are equipped with the latest testing equipment, which can perform tests of international standards, and are accredited by Marks & Spencer, Next and Tommy Hilfiger. All products are
Eco-friendly and Oekotex 100 certified
Activities
Cotton
Yarn
Fabric
Denim
Shirting
Khakhi
Knits
Apparel
Denim
Shirts
Khakhi
Brands
In-house Brands
Intl licensees
Location
Akola
Ahmadabad, Santej
Naroda, Santej
Santej
Santej
Santej
Bangalore
Bangalore
Bangalore
Bangalore
Bangalore
The division believes in the philosophy On time and in full, whether it is information, product quality or order quantity. The design studio attached to the pilot mill is fully equipped to reproduce customer design samples and also to make customized seasonal collections. The SAP R/3 module facilitates
better and faster material management for our customers.
Page no. - 13
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Santej
450 Acre
1227
From around the world
Entire production facility is under one roof.
84
Product Portfolio
Spinning
58000 Spindles Yarn producing
100% cotton
100% cotton and poly cotton
blended yarn from 7 count to 170/2.
Products are within 25% of Uster
world statistics :
Unit 1 : 33,000 Spindles
Unit 2 : 25,000 Spindles
Products
Spinning
Fabrics
Denim
Shirting
Khaki
Knit
Voiles
Prints
Apparel
Shirts
Jeans
SECTIONAL WARPER
4.5 mn units
6 mn units
SUZUKI WARPER
Page no. - 15
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Arvind has largest portfolio of International brands: Lee, Wrangler, Jansport. Kipling, Tommy, Arrow, US Polo, Izod, Pierre Cardin, Palm Beach, Cherokee, Hart Schaffner, Max and many more.
Feeling the pulse of society Arvind is successfully launching its in-house brands like Excalibur, Flying Machine, Ruff & Tuff and New Port University
CUSTOMERS
USA Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Ann taylor, Banana Republic, DKNY, Perry Ellis, Eddie Bauer,
Lane Bryant, Polo, JC Penny, kohls, A&F, Lands End, Liz Claiborne, Dockers, May Dept, Mervyns,
Nauatica, Nordstrom, Old navy, Oxford ind, J- Jill, Talbots, Acolt, Express, Kohls, Oshkosh, Phat
Farm, J Crew, Roccawear, Brooks Brothers, Massimo Dutti, Lords and Taylor.
Shirting (Dress)
Fibers
Yarns
Counts
Product
Finishes
Shirting (Casual)
Fibers
Categories
Counts
Product
Finishes
EUROPE - Marks & Spsencer, Next, Espirit, Cortefiel, FC UK, Tom Tailor, Mavi Jeans,
Speedo, Spring Field, Mastai Ferrati, Nicole Ferrati, Kenzo, Carrefour, Pull and Bear, Peter Werth,
Burberry, Facconable, Emidio Tucci, Ahlers, Ben Sherman, Benetton, Farhi, Marc o polo, Devenhams,
French Connection.
Khakhis
Fibers
Categories
Count
Product
Finish
Page no. - 17
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INDIA- Allen Solly, Color Plus, Indian Terrain, Park Avenue, Louis Philippe, Manzoni,
Van Huesen, Pantaloon, Blackberry, Peter England, Barc Leisure, Anna Belle, ITC Wills, Indus
League, Scullers, Urbana, Megamart.
ARVIND BRANDS
Own Brands- Flying Machine, Newport, Ruggers, Ruf & Tuf, Excalibur.
Licenced Brands- Arrow, Lee, Wrangler, Tommy Hilfiger, Gant, Sansabelt, Izod,
Cherokee.
100% tencel
Tencel cotton/linen/wool/
nylon/poly
Tencel Lycra
Indigo tencel
Modal and blends
100% modal
Modal -cotton/linen /poly
Silk and blends
100% silk
Silk cotton/linen
Tactel blends
Tactel cotton
Other blends
COMPETITORS
Madure Garments, Raymonds, Levis, Bombay Dyeing, Indus League, Provogue, Zodiac.
Page no. - 19
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finishes
Process Specific :-
Nano - pel
Nano- care
Teflon sr and terlon ht
Anti microbial
Mosquito repellent
Scented
Moisture management
Arvi silk
Arvi platinum finish
Processing
Mechanical stretch
Core filament cotton for higher DP
rating
Micro fiber with aero finish
Easy to iron with extra softness
Fiber blends
Quality Management
The 5s working definitions are
applied which carries the quality
management:
1- Sort.
2- Set in order.
3- Shine
4- Standardize and
5- Sustain.
It also reduces the waste and promotes
the quality.
SpinningArvind Limited is committed to produce quality yarn for world class shirting with optimum cost within
stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.
Spinning: is a process of converting fibers into yarns. Fibers have to undergo certain processes from blowing to winding to take the shape of yarn.
Blow room
Carding
Predrawfame
Unilap
Comber
Post draw frame
Speed frame
Ring frame
Random winding
Assembly winding
TFO
Singeing
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Blow room:
Here, the bales of cotton fibers sourced from various ginning mills are laid, spread out and
opened up. The blending happens with the help of Blendomat, a machine that moves with
toothed rollers running along then bales thus opening and blending them in layers. These are
then fed into a machine by vacuum suction for cleaning and transported further by blowing air.
They move through chambers where the dust and other impurities embedded in the fibers are
separated out. Clean fiber tufts are sent to the carding section through overhead channels. There
are 3 blowers of TRUTZSCHER BO 046 and 1 blendomat of TRUTZSCHER VDT 019. The
rpm of blower is 72-140. There is facility to do three different mixing fiber types
simultaneously.
Drawing:
Pre draw frame: 8 carded slivers are fed into the drawing machine where they are combined
and drawn into a single sliver using some tension. The sliver is made more uniform in terms of
mass per unit length, parallel and improved. A relative humidity of 51-53% and temperature of
33-35% are maintained on the floor. Breaker sliver is the output.
Unilap: Here 24-26 breaker slivers are combined to form a single lap sheet. A single roll of lap
weighs is 1 kg. Comber lap emerges out of this machine.
Comber: The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by rollers with teeth. Short
fibers are pulled out.Finely smooth, parallely aligned slivers in which individual fibers can be
pulled out easily are produced after combing. 8 laps are combined to form 1 combed sliver.
Post draw frame: 6 combed slivers are further combined, paralellised and the sliver quality is
improved by drawing. The mass/ length is reduced. These are called finished sliver.
Carding:
Individualization of fibers takes place. Neps are removed. A uniform and long sliver is formed
which is collected in drums. They are called carded sliver that is of continuous length and collected in one drum at once. The TRUTZSCHER machines DK 760, KHC 891 and FDK 533 are
employed here. The are 14 machines in one row and 7 in another. The drums were marked with
colored rubber ribbons according to the count of yarn to be spun from that sliver.
Speedframe:
Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing under tension
through roller pairs. The bobbins are placed one by one in rows and the armed flyer of the
machine is lowered to the level of a black ring on it. 2 rounds of roving are wound to begin
with, and the guide on the arm carries it all around the bobbin thus winding it parallely. A much
finer thread of fibers are produced.
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Ring frame:
This is the process of formation of yarn. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by imparting twist. 4 pairs of rollers with and without groves play the drawing action thus reducing
the mass/length and forming yarn. These are wound on smaller spindles.
Assembly winding:
Here, 2 cones are used to double the yarn. There is no twist, but only parallel winding of 2 or
more yarns for ply and wound on cheese.
TFO:
Random winding/ cone winding:
Yarns from the bobbin are transferred to bigger packages called cone on simple cone winder/
mach winder or Autoconer. Bobbins placed in magazine are moved through channels and
detected for loose ends. Those with free end are transported further and attached to the loose
end present in the cone continuing the winding process. Then they are just spliced with each
other thus avoiding knotting to get better efficiency in weaving. The bobbins when empty are
tracked back to be collected by vacuum suction and dropped into a bin.
The two for one twist machine is for twisting the plied yarn and produces bigger cones. To
prevent sloughing off, here, a guide takes the yarn around the package forming a firm setting.
A cone weighs app 1.8 kg. Z/Z twist is given.
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Singeing:
The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature, pressure and maintaining
other specifications. This is done to remove loose fibers and short hairs that cause
disturbance in the smoothness of the yarn. CNG is used as fuel and singed yarn is obtained
as output.2 machines are currently being employed now to solve the working efficiency of
the factory.
Rewinding
The yarns are again rewound after they are singed. This
results in the removal of the black soot from the surface of
the yarns. The yarns are now kept packed under some cover
ready to go for dyeing. The package is called a pallet, which
consists of 315 cones in each. Each cone weighs 1 - 1.5 kg.
The no. Of rewinding machines are 2 under the singeing
shed area and are known by the name main pilot motor.
Spinning
is a process of converting fibers into yarns. Fibers have to undergo certain processes from blow
room to winding room to take the shape of yarn. In blow room the bales of cotton are laid,
spread out and opened up with the help of blendomat and the cotton contamination controller. In
Arvind the Chute feed system works for further process. Then the individualization of fibers take
place called Carding. 21 TRUTZSCHLER carding machines are their. Then slivers are fed into
a drawing machine where they are combined and drawn. 12 draw frames are employed here out
of which 6 for pre-draw frame and 6 for post-draw frame. The laps are fed into the system where
they are combed by rollers with tooth. Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight
twist & drawing under tension through roller pairs. There are 34 Lakshmi Ring Frames in which
1008 bobbins can get filled in a single machine. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by
imparting twist. Hence the process of formation of yarns completed. Yarns from the bobbin are
transferred to bigger packages called cone by the process called Winding. Soft package winding
is done for dying. Then it goes to yarn singeing and/or to yarn dyeing as per requirements. There
are two types of yarn dyeing frames spring frame and P.P. tube.
Weaving
For Weaving, the mission is to achieve zero weaving defects with continuous improvement in
process control parameters & training of people.
The yarn is transferred from single packages of yarn to an even sheet of yarn representing a
number of sectioned bands of color wound onto a warp beam. Before applying onto the loom
shed Sizing of warp is necessary, it is the application of starch on the warp yarns to overcome
tension levels in warp and to overcome the
effects of abrasion and friction. Four Sucker
Muller (Hacoba) machine is applied for the
sizing. After that denting and drafting is done
and then interlacing of warp and weft yarns
is done to produce the fabric. The shed holds
170 looms which includes 98 Air-jet looms
and 72 Rapier looms. The Omni air-jet and
Gamma rapier looms are of PICANOL. The
speed of Air-jet loom is 720 rpm and 270300 mts fabric are woven per loom per day
whereas the speed of Rapier loom is 520 rpm
and the production is around 200 mts/loom/
day. After the weaving the inspection is required i.e. the examination of every yard of
fabric as the fabric moves slowly across a
lighted inspection table. The significant flaws
are noted and defects get corrected by gray
mending and finish mending. There are 21
grey
inspection tables. Then again the fabric rolls
are made and batching is done by combining
similar kind of rolls in huge batches for
further processes. Here two batching
machines are
working with an average speed of
2000mts/hr.
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WEAVING PREPARATORY
RE-WINDINGThe final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perforated bobbins to form
soft cheeses that will be sent for winding.
According to number of packages required
for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding machines have a capacity of 50 spindles
and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir
machines can hold 120 spindles at once. A
constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.
RE-WINDING
SIZING
LOOM SHED
After warping and drafting the weavers beam
along with the drop wire heald shaft and reed
are loaded on the frame of the loom. The loom
shed has a capacity of 170 looms all together.
SECTIONAL WARPING
LOOM SHED
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There are two different types of machines present in the loom shed: 1. Airjet
2. Rapier
Processing
For Processing, the mission is To add significant value to yarn and fabric at every processing stage, with continuous improvement in quality & customer service.
Fabric singeing is done to remove the hairiness of the fabric by passing it through flame at a very
high speed then it goes for de-sizing in which the starch is removed that was applied during the
sizing process onto the yarns. One OSTHOF m/c is employed for singeing and de-sizing both.
The target production for one shift is around 35,000 mts. After de-sizing the rotation of the batch
is required for 8 hrs to avoid accumulation of chemicals at one place. Then washing is done which
includes one steaming and two fresh water wash. The Mercerization process comes to give the
fabric- luster and an affinity to dye by Kyoto machine. The speed of production is 25-50 mts/min.
Most of the fabrics require the Bleaching process in which the whiteness of the fabric is increased
by oxidation. A batch of 5000-6000 mts is bleached at any given time. Fabric dyeing is done
only when the fabric has to be dyed in a single flat color. PDPS m/c is used for reactive and vat
dyes; other m/cs are Jigger and Jet-dye machine. BENNINGER m/cs are employed for continuous bleaching, dyeing and mercerization. There are three methods of fabric Printing that is done
here- Table printing, Rotary printing and Digital printing. Separate screen for separate color design
is used. Speed of production in Rotary m/c is 50-80 mts/min. There is one DuPond Artistri 2020
machine of OUPONT is used for digital printing which has a production speed of 11mts/hr. After
printing is done the color fixation is required which is performed by the processes Ageing and Curing for reactive and pigment printing respectively. In ageing the fabric is passed through steam at
150C for 7 minute whereas in Curing the fabric is passed through steam of 102C for 5 minutes
RAPIER LOOM
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YARN DYEING
The swatches sent by the customer to be reproduced are considered as standard on which the yarn
color depends. The swatches could be in the form of fabric, yarn or paper cuttings. The count of
yarn required, the light source to be tested under, process following dyeing before matching, any
special remarks, the required quantity are all mentioned in a specification sheet and received from
the design and development department.
Then they refer to their library where almost one lakh shades and their recipes have been recorded. The shade that is closest to the given swatch is chosen and recipe is modified till the perfect
shade is achieved. The recipes of different trial are recorded in the work sheet.
Yarn is dyed in package form in closed system. HTHP machines are used and the capacity varies
from 100 to 700 kg. The weight of the package is 12kgs to 78kgs. The quantity of yarn to be dyed
in a particular shade will be specified by the PPC department.
Usually reactive and vat dyes are used for dyeing. Generally reactive HE dyes are dyed at 80 C
since these are hot brand dyes. The dye bath is ready at 70 C and gradually increased. For vat dyes
it depends on dye-class. The pressure exercised is 3kg/cm3. It takes about 8 1 / 2 hours to complete the entire process that includes pretreatment and dyeing of the yarn.
Cold brand dyes are not used since they have lower fastness and not suitable for mercerization
process. Hence never used in shirting. HEXL and vat dyes are used for mercerization.
AUTOLAB- &@ DISPENSERThere is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific
proportions to get any shade. This
is a computerized process and requires little intervention manually.
To check the uniformity of dyeing, yarn from 4 different layers of a package is wound on a card
and compared. This is referred to as the within package leveling report.
The Recipe includes:
SOLUTION MAKERTo prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A beaker is placed
in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye that can be added is shown on the
screen. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired
concentration entered in the system. Water is filled to achieve that concentration.
Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn or the fabric
swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time. The machines which are
used are:
1.
turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms.
2.
Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. 5gms
3.
Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms
Pretreatment- Scouring
1.
Sequestering/ Chelating agent
2.
De-aerating cum wetting agent
3.
Alkali-caustic/ soda ash
Pretreatment- Bleaching
1.
Hydrogen peroxide
2.
Stabilizer for peroxide
Acid for neutralization
Dyeing- Reactive
1.
Color (HE/ME)
2.
Salt (for exhaustion)
3.
Soda ash (for fixation)
4.
Leveling agent
TURBOMAT
SPETRA DYE
INFRARED COLOUR
Dyeing- Vat
1. Color
2.
Sodium hydro sulphite (reducing agent)
3.
Caustic (to make vat soluble in water)
4.
H2O2 (oxidizing agent)
Then the samples are washed in open bath beaker mechanically. The ratio of chemicals and temperature depends upon the shade of the dye. Then the sample is dried in the dryer. The dried yarn is then
wound on to a card The yarn card is placed before
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Procedure
Bleaching: LS, SPLF, STCP and caustic are taken at room temperature and raised to 50 C. it
is stirred for 5 min in mixing vessel and brought to the dyeing chamber. H2O2 is added at 95
C and stirred for 30 min. it is drained of chemicals.
PIECE DYEING
The swatch obtained from the customer is measured for the color by computer. A close shade is predicted and recipe obtained. This is a computerized color matching system.
Washing: H2O2 and alkali are removed by treatment with hot water at 95 C for 10 minutes.
It is washed in cold water for 2 minutes. The peroxide and alkali are neutralized with acetic
acid and 10L.
Dyeing takes place in stages following procedures according to the type of dye. These are:
1.
Vat pigment- Caladon(pad-dry-cure)
2.
Vat- (pad-dry- pad- steam)
3.
Reactive- (cold- pad- batch-wash)
Dyeing: Fresh hot water is taken in the dyeing chamber, LSER and SPLF (wetting agent)
are added to soften the water. This is stirred for 10 minutes and salt added. Again stirring happens. The color is added finally and boiled at 80 C for 30 minutes. The liquor
is sent back to mixing vessel where soda ash is added for fixation. It is sent to the dyeing chamber and treated at 80 C for 45 minutes. The solution is drained and material is
washed for 10 minutes at 80 C. IN OUT for reactive dyes and IN OUT and OUT
IN for vat dyes.
Soaping: ADW is added to wash off extra dyes. This also reduces the dyes thus fixing them
permanently. Th procedure is for 20 minutes at 95C. Washing with fresh water at 80 C for 10
minutes is done. Cold wash is carried out after this followed by rinsing and drying.
Shade matching: Once the yarn is dried it is sent for shade matching in computer.
Drying: If the yarn matches, YL is added for lighter shade and Supra for darker shade are
added for softening and fixing. Then the package goes to RF machine for drying which takes
1- 1.5 hrs.
MATHIS PADDING
MANGLE
SPECTRA LIGHT
MATHIS DRIER
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Finishing
Finishing is the combined process of value addition of the fabric as per the requirements. The
fabric is treated in Stenter where it is made to pass through a solution of finishing chemical with
Polyethylene emulsion and squeezed. After that in Straightening Unit the weft yarns are aligned
parallel with the help of photo-sensered cameras. Sanforising prevents any further stretching or
shrinking of fabrics while being used by consumer. We pass the fabric between rubber beds and
over hot rollers shrinks it to desired width. For Sanforising and Stentering Machines of MONFORTS are employed. Then the fabric goes for specific kind of finishes like Arvi-silk finish,
Soft finish, ETI, Mild resin, Nano care finish, Liquid ammonia, Micro scent, Anti-microbal,
Vitamin-E, U-V protective, Moistcure etc. There are some mechanical finishes which dont
need any chemical or water. Calendar finish, peach finish and Airo finish come in this category.
Calendar finish increases the shinning whereas peach adds toughness to the fabric. Two LAFER
machines are employed for mechanical finish
The division has an in-house Design Studio with a team of qualified professional
designers. The design Studio is fully equipped with latest technologies. It gets continuous design
inputs on latest international trends from designers based in Italy and UK. Great emphasis on
Design and Product Development.
23 in house designers, qualified from Internationally reputed institutes. Italian and Spanish
designers on board.
Our designers constantly predict market trends offering our customers a wide range of
products.
Each season we design, collections in fresh colors expressing our deep knowledge of
fabrics.
Range Collections:
Season-wise collections for S/S and A/W.
Customized collections for key customers(based on their concepts/inputs).
Stock Service through the Classic Line Collection.
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Facilities:
Computer Aided Designing
A mini mill dedicated to design & development
Sample sizing & warping for desk loom samples & road samples
Independent weaving for sample making
Small package dyeing machine for new shades
Comprehensive shade library to enable quick responses.
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QUALITY ASSURANCE
QA Lab is accredited by
Marks & Spencers
Levis
L L Bean
Next
Gap Inc
Invista (For Lycra Testing)
Liz Claiborne (Under Process)
We are Oekotex-100 certified.
Arvind is certified to Eco Sustainable textiles standards and Organic Exchange 100
We are committed to Fair Trade and our product meets the Fair trade
principles.
Vigilant On-Line and Off-Line QA at all stages of Production to sustain consistent Product.
There are certain quality tests that the yarns have to undergo at each stage to ensure total quality assurance. The testing starts at its infancy i.e. in the fiber stage only there are certain relevant
tests, which a fiber has to undergo before it is sent further.
Variety of cotton
Assam comila
Bengal deshi
Kalagin
Wagad
Jaydhar
G 12
G 11/Digvijay
V 797
J 34
F 414
H 777
Agetti
DHY 286
AHH 486
NHH 44
LRA 5166
MCH 1/11
JKHY 1
MECH 1
H 4/ H 6
S 6
S 4
MCU 5
DCH 32
SUVIN
AK 277
G 6
Y 1
AKHG
CJ 73
A 51/9
1007
Varalakshmi
3. USTER MDTA 3
This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and
the output includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The
clean cotton serves as a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.
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Yarn fault-testing
Types of cotton fibers used in Arvind
Name and place
NHH-44 from India
Ethel from brazil
USI 1/8 from America
Shankar-6 (super) from India
Bunny Brahma from India
MCU-5 from India
Karo from west Africa
Juli (mali)
Bola s burkina faso
Gizza 76 from Egypt
Gizza 45 from Egypt
Acala cotton from Sudan
Raw cotton from Australia
SJV Acala up laud from America
Pima from Australia
Pima from Israel
Pima from America
CISELS from Turkmenistan
Barakrt from Sudan
DCH-32 super from India
MCU 5 from India
ELS 1- 7/16 from china
quality
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Extra long very short cotton
Long strong cotton
Long strong cotton
Extra long and extra strong cotton
Extra long extra strong cotton
Extra long and strong cotton
Long strong cotton
Long strong cotton
Long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very srong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
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WRAP BLOCKIt is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for the next
process
COSTING
Costing is decided as per several stages from Picking up the fiber to the finishing of the fabric.
These stages summed up together add-on to the final cost of the fabric.
The end usage of the fabric manufactured by Arvind is garments and the buyer of the fabric
is basically a garment manufacturer. Different apparel manufacturing companies have different types of requirement as per the weight of the fabric (GSM), weave, count, construction
(EPI and PPI), percentage of colour usage, finish of the fabric etc. the entire cost of the fabric
depends on all of the above mentioned parameters. So accordingly after considering all these
factors including the production cost, overheads and the Profit margins, the Price of the fabric
is quoted to the apparel manufacturer.
YARN BOARD WINDERIs done when required. Here, the yarn is wound
on black or white board according to its own
color and analyzed subjectively for slubs.
ELECTRONIC LEA STRENGTH TESTERThe lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking
strength is tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product).
HAIRINESS TESTEROn the basis of optical principle, the hairiness is measured as the number of hairs per unit length for 24 mm.
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Product
Unisex leisure/fashion fabric both for international and domestic market
High quality fabric for mens formal shirts and bottom both for international and
domestic market
Fashion fabric for women primarily for domestic women
Readymade garments for men-shirts and jeans
Wide range of textile products and brands
Promotion
Creating awareness : An initial challenge
Creating customer orientation
Focused on encouraging awareness of denim and high premium garments
Goal of developing long term trusting relationship with patients
Price
lower prices in comparison to the competitors due to the availability of low cost
domestic cotton and labour
Retail DivisionMainly for domestic market and management process. It is market sensitive. The department
mainly has to see what the final outcome of the product is:
always in touch with internal+ external customers
need to know when to produce what
fashion cycle+ high international margin/ international customers behave in a
different way
In export Arvind basically sells through buying offices like impulse, li and fung etc or directly and even through RMGs (Ready Made Garments) like Ranger and brfl (Bombay rayon
fashions limited) etc.
In domestic brands Arvind targets the customer directly like Louis Philippe, Colorplus, and
Indian terrain etc.
In retail market too Arvind has direct links with middleman or agents or direct fabric selling retailers. RMGs are ready made garment converters for export brands. They always
buy fabric and then make shirts, trousers, jackets etc. and sell it to export brands. In Arvind
like Ranger is supplying to GANT, SCOTCH AND SODA and REPALY. The same thing is
done in Arvind export division Bangalore. They take fabrics from Arvind Ahmedabad and
then convert it into ready to wear garments for many brands like GAP, BROOKS, ESPRIT,
MEXX, LUCKY JEANS etc.
Reason
Low cost of domestically produced cotton.
Low cost of labor
Weak currency
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SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
small scale projects
brand studies
Abercrombie & Fitch
Holding the corporate social responsibility(CSR) Arvind runs vocational programs for rural
poor of the Khedbrahma taluka of Gujarats Sabarkantha district. In 1995 Arvind owned the
SHARDA (Strategic help alliance for relief to distressed areas) trust to improve physical environment and living conditions of rural areas.
At Arvind, they place the social and environmental responsibilities at the
center of our management philosophy and our business.
Arvind has made comprehensive efforts to identify, monitor, minimize and continually
reduce the environmental footprint of its operations and offer good working conditions.
Arvind continuously explore ways to foster environmental consciousness and awareness
at all levels of the organization, in the communities where they carry on business, and among
the farmers, suppliers and other stakeholders with whom we deal.
is a American fashion retailer, headed by chairman and CEO Michael S. Jeffries. The A&F brand
itself focuses on casualwear and accessories for a
target consumer ages of 18 through 22. With over
300 locations in the United States, the brand has
embarked on international expansion throughout
various world markets. The company also operates three off-shoot brands: Abercrombie, Hollister Co., Ruehl and Gilly Hicks (targeting consumers between the ages of 12 to 30).
Founded in 1892 in Manhattan by David T. Abercrombie, A&F had been an elite outfitter of sporting and excursion goods. It struggled financially
from the late 1960s until it was purchased by
The Limited in 1988 and repositioned, under the
management of Mike Jeffries, as the aspirational
Casual Luxury lifestyle brand in present form.
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Banana Republic
Banana Republic is an American clothing brand
founded by Mel and Patricia Ziegler in 1978 as
a travel-themed clothing company. It was bought
by Gap in 1983. The company has over 500 stores
located internationally
The first Banana Republic storefront was located
in Mill Valley, California. In conjunction with the
storefront, the Zieglers also started a mail-order
catalogue that became an instant success. The catalogue featured clothing from striking locales and
had narrative stories throughout. The catalogues
success allowed the Zieglers to open a second
storefront a year later. Today the Banana Republic
has over 400 retail stores and generates 2.4 billion
in annual revenue.
Eddie Bauer
Eddie Bauer is an outdoor brand that offers signature outerwear; mens and womens clothing,
gear and accessories; and world-class mountaineering gear. All built to one standardto be
the best.
Bauer continued to design and experiment with sporting equipment and outerwear. In
1942, at the request of the United States Army,
he developed the B-9 Flight Parka, which
became known as the Bomber Jacket since it
was worn by thousands of World War II (193945) pilots. The company also provided the
military with flight suits, sleeping bags, packs,
snowshoes, and clothing as well. Approximately four hundred employees worked round-theclock shifts to keep up with the demand.
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Esprit
Esprit is an international youthful lifestyle brand offering smart, affordable
luxury and bringing newness and style to
life. The Group operates more than 800
directly managed retail stores worldwide
and distributes its products via more than
14,000 wholesale locations internationally, occupying total selling space of
over 1.1 million square metres in more
than 40 countries.
Gap Inc
Gap Inc. is a leading international specialty retailer offering clothing, accessories and personal care products for
men, women, children and babies under
the Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy,
Piperlime and Athleta brand names. Gap
brand includes Gap, GapKids, babyGap
and gapbody. The company also operates
Gap Outlet and Banana Republic Factory Outlet stores
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H&M
J. Crew
J. Crew sells mens, womens and childrens apparel and accessories through
North American retail locations as well
as catalogs and its website. The company
produces products with a traditional preppy
aesthetic similar to that of Polo Ralph
Lauren (RL). J. Crew had total revenues of
$1.4B in 2008[1], with net income of $54
million. The company is in direct competition with Jones Apparel Group (JNY) and
Liz Claiborne (LIZ), both of which own
and produce other brands in addition to
their namesake lines
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J. Jill
Talbots
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Tommy Bahama
Zara
Tommy Bahama is a Seattle-based manufacturer and licenser of high-end tropicalthemed wear and other clothing and
household goods. The company is owned
by Georgia-based Oxford Industries. The
company sells apparel through its own
chain of retail outlets in Canada and the
United States, and through other retailers. The company operates restaurants
attached to some stores that serve tropical
themed food as well. It recently opened a
new bar at Yankee Stadium
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sport
collections
sports
casuals
formals
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Key concept clear ,puristic, simplified lines and structure, colorless and faded images and walls, porcelain,
plaster, genuine, old photographs, unforgettable moments, time spent together.
Colors chalky pastels, faded tan and black, ochre.
Client zara women swear
Target customer niche client
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 50s
Weft count 80s comp.
Construction on loom ( 156/88) , off loom (180/90)
Weave plain .
No. of harnesses 4
Constraints classic sporty stripes , 80% of base has to
be colored, weft white
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Key concept art and architecture of Monaco, ancient ,heritage buildings, heraldic,
bravery, regimental and disciplined. clean , status symbol, merit and rank,
Colors all dark and mid tones of tan and rust, muted and saturated earthy tones and
off white. grays and black with red as the ascent.
Client united color of Benetton
Target customer very niche client.
Market U.S.A.
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 50s
Weft count 50s
Construction on loom ( 120/78) , of loom (138/80), reed 120/3 , reed space 64.5
for dobbies - on loom ( 80/78) , of loom (138/80), reed 80/3/4 , reed space 64.5
Weave plain and dobbies
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints sporty stripes, muted and subdued summer tones,maximum of 4 colors
in weft.
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casuals
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Active relaxatation lively, eye catching, youthful and dynamic, cheerful mood,
celebration mood, summer garden party or holiday trip
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Key concept hot and windy , sand and desert, hot breeze , desert
landscape , travelers, tan and grey, scratching and etching, sweat
and dust ,and Sicilian heat, road side landscape, umbrellas, camel
safari,
Colors all dark and mid tones of red, orange as the ascent color,
muted and saturated tones of yellow and off white.
Client A MAHADEVIA
Target customer middle class
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 40s
Weft count 40s
Construction on loom ( 120/74) , of loom (132/76), reed 80/3 ,
red space 64.5
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain places.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints uneven pattern to get the casual appearance, muted
and saturated look.
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Highland fling - Scottish, tweed and herringbones, kilts, patterned and tex-
tured.
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formals
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manor born classic style, superior ,elegant, business and finance, smart ,responsible
Inspiration - To the manner born is an idiom meaning from birth accustomed to the
behavior expected and therefore able to meet the standards easily, and To the manor
born is an idiom meaning accustomed as from birth to the ways and demands of being
landed gentry. Manner appears to have the stronger literary section.
Key concept official stripes, pin or regency stripes, sober reliable stripes, smart ,respectable, elegant, shows degree of responsibility, world of business and finance.
Colors all dark and mid tones of blue ,ink blue white and grays
Client Louis Philippe
Target customer rich class and niche client
Market Indian domestic brand
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 2/121
Weft count 2/121
Construction on loom ( 80/88) , off loom (180/90), reed 80/4 ,
reed space 67
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain places.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints classic formal stripes , 60% of base has to be blue,
very sober and even symmetrical stripes.
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Pin stripes:- A pattern of very thin stripes running in parallel found in cloths.
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Pin Checks:- A check pattern produced by intersecting pin sized stripes that are one or two yarns
thick
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Burberry Checks:- It has defined pattern as 3 horizontal and 3+1 vertical line in check, it can have different
sizes of checks.
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PRASHANT GUPTA
TEXTILE DESIGN
SEMESTER - 7