You are on page 1of 52

www.arvindmills.

com

A REPORT ON THE

INDUSTRIAL INTERNSHIP
WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential.
In content and focus in problem solving.
In teams for effective performance.
In intellect & its power.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities.
To nurture talent to build leaders for tomorrows
corporation.
To reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual
business contributions.

[ARVIND LIMITED]
(23.05.2011 16.07.2011)

WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavours.
Of mutual benefit and prosperity.

SUBMITTED BY
PRASHANT GUPTA
TEXTILE DESIGN 2008-2012
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, NEW DELHI

www.arvindmills.com

CONTENTS
acknowledgement
company profile
organisational chart
prodoctional capacities & capabilities
product range and customers
materials and manufacturing process
design and developement
quality assurance
costing
marketing and distribution
csr
small scale projects
- brand studies
- collections
- research on checks
& stripes

www.arvindmills.com

Acknowledgement
Any project requires the efforts of many people and this work was no different. I
extend my heartfelt thanks to Mr. Subhanish Malhotra, H.R. Shirtings, Arvind Limited, Santej Plant, Gandhinagar and his colleagues Mr. Keyur Patel and Mr. Jimmy
Devid for enlightening our mind towards specific process details regarding spinning,
weaving and processing of shirting department at Arvind Limited with their valuable
supervision.
I would also like to thank to Mr. Amit of weaving department, Mr. Saikat of dyeing
department, Mr. Shubhanjan of finishing section, Mr. Jigesh of bleaching section and
Mr. Suresh of printing department for extending their arms to provide us the technical
knowledge with full support and help. I am very much thankful to Mr. Vijay Mehta,
Manager- Design & Development, an alumni of NIFT, Delhi and Mr. Sanjay Suman
for his guardian like support without which it would be very difficult for me to adjust
in an entirely different place and atmosphere.
I cannot forget to extend my thanks to Ms. Neha Singh, the faculty in charge of the
industrial visit for arranging such learning session and my colleague Arpita Jain for
his support as well as the full co-ordination during the visit.

Prashant Gupta
Textile Design 2008-2012
NIFT, New Delhi.

Shirtings business Division


The Arvind Mills Limited
Santej Road
Near Khatrej
Taluka Kalol
Dist Gandhinagar - 382721
Gujarat
India
Tel: +91-2764-281100/22
Fax: +91-2764-281027
Industry Mentor Mr. Vijay Mehta

Page no. - 1

www.arvindmills.com

COMPANY PROFILE
ARVIND LIMITED
Arvind limited, the company which
now holds a position globally was
initiated by the three brothers
Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and
Chimanbhai in 1931, when India
began boycotting fine and superfine
fabrics made in Britain. The Lalbhais
reasoned the demand for the need
made of Indian fine and superfine
fabrics and started Arvind limited with
a share of Rs.2,525,000 shares, with
52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in
those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for
dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing.
The company outgrew all its competitors within a few years and today it is one of the largest
companies, with a share of $500 million, it soon ventured into the following markets.

TEXTILE ANNUAL CAPACITY


DENIMS
120 Million Meters
SHIRTING 35 Million Meters
KHAKI
21 Million Meters
KNITS 10,000 Tonnes
VOILES
33 Million Meters

Page no. - 3

www.arvindmills.com

Arvind today manufactures fabric for the following brand names:In house brands

Licensed Brands

Joint Ventured Brands

Excalibur
Flying machine
Ruff and tuff
New Port university

Gant, U.S.A. 1949


Hart Shaffner Marx
USPA
Sansa Belt
Pier Cardin Paris
Arrow
Cherokee

Tommy Hilfiger
Nautica
Lee
Wrangler
Wrangler Hero
Riders

Now, Mr. Sanjay S.Lalbhai grandson of Late. Shri.Kasturbhai is the chairman and managing director
of the company. Arvind has a worldwide network today, with offices in New York, London, Mauritius,
Bangladesh, Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore and Ahmedabad, Arvind has truly become global.
The Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931. With the best
of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having chosen to
invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. Today, The
Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million) Lalbhai Group.
Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its
attention on select core products. Such a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the
global textile arena. With its presence across the textile value chain, the company endeavors to be a
one-stop shop for leading garment brands.
Forevision and Technology has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the
world, and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate. Arvind is already making its presence felt in Shirtings, Knits and Khakhis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready
to wear Garments world over.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting up worldscale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, of offering garment packages, to its
international and domestic customers.
With the Indian economy poised for rapid growth, Arvind brands with its international licenses of Lee,
Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting its vision on becoming the largest apparel brands company in India.
Arvind Mills Ltd is one of Indias largest composite manufacturer of textiles, denims, shirtings, knits
and khakis. It has today acquired fame and position as one of the foremost denim and jeans manufacturer of the world

Page no. - 5

www.arvindmills.com

Arvind Shirtings
Arvind shirting is a composite unit with spinning, weaving, processing and finishing. The fibers
processed here are cotton and blends of cotton and polyester, cotton and nylon, cotton and lycra.
Top quality cotton is imported from various places:VARIETY
Karo
Gizza-76
Acala
Pima

REGION
West Africa
Egypt
Sudan
Australia

QUALITY
Long and Strong
Extra Long and Strong
Long and Strong
Extra Long and Strong

SPINNING:- Its the process of converting fibres into yarn, for this fibres have to go through a
number of processes
Blow Room
Carding
Pre Draw Frame
Comber
Post Draw Frame
Fibres
Speed Frame
Ring Frame
Winding
TFO
Singeing
Rewinding.

Blow Room:- Here, the bales of cotton fibres are


laid spread out and openend up. They are then fed
into the machine by vaccum suction for cleaning
and transported further by blowing air.
Carding:- The individualization of fibre takes
place, neps are removed and a long and uniform
slive is obtained which is collected in drums.
Pre Draw Frame:- Here 8 carded slivers are fed
into the drawing machine where they are combined
and drawn into a single sliver using some tension.
Comber:-The laps are fed into where they are
combed by rollers with tooth. Finely, smooth,
parallely allinged slivers in which individual fibers
can be pulled out easily are produced.
Post Draw Frame:- 6-12 combed sliver are
further combined, parallelized and the sliver
quality is improved by drawing.

WINDING
SINGEING

BLOW ROOM

RE-WINDING
CARDIND

RING FRAME

Speed Frame:- Slivers are made into roving


bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing
under tension through roller pairs.
Ring Frame:- Roving is spun into yarn of desired
count by imparting twist, thus reducing the
mass/length of the forming yarn.
Winding:- Yarns from bobbins are transferred
to bigger packages called cone on Simple cone
winder or Machine winder or Autoconer.
TFO:- The two for one twist machine is for twisting th plied yarns and producing bigger cones.
Singeing:- The yarns are made to pass through
flames at fixed temperature and pressure. This
is done to remove lose fibers and short hair that
cause disturbance in the smoothness of yarn.
Rewinding:- The yarns are rewound again after
they are singed, this results in the removal of
black soot from the surface of the yarns.
Rewinding:- The yarns are rewound again after
they are singed, this results in the removal of
black soot from the surface of the yarns.

Page no. - 7

www.arvindmills.com

DYEING:-

Inspection:- Fabric inspection is examination of every yard of fabric as the fabric moves slowly
across a lighted inspection table. Significant flaws are noted and the general condition of the fabric is
determined and recorded.
Inspection
Grey Mending
Finish Mending
Rolling
Batching.

Dyeing is imparting colour to the fibre or fabric. It can be of two types


1.Yarn Dyeing.
2. Package Dyeing.
1.For Yarn Winding the process is as follows

Weft
Winding

Dyeing

Rewinding

Warping

Sizing

Drawing

Weaving

Warp
Sec.Warping
2. Package Dyeing:- In this the yarn is dyed in cheese form. There are cylindrical stands onto
which the packages are arranged and it is immersed in closed system.
Sectional Warping:- The pattern
for a fabric requires yarn of
specific length, number, and
color. These are wound on the
warp beam in this section.
Sizing:-The yarns from warp
beam are passed through size
solution, this makes the yarns
coarse so that they can resist
friction and abrasion during
weaving and other processing.
Drawing:-The free ends from
the beam are pulled vertically
and clamped on the brush beam.
They are combed slightly and
fitted on drawing in machine.

WARP SIZING

DENTING

DRAFTING

Weaving:- Weaving is the


interlacing of warp(vertical) and
weft(horizontal) yarns to make
fabric. Two types of looms are
used for weaving here are1.Air jet.
2. Rapier loom.

INSPECTION

GREY MENDING

Processing:- The batch of fabric is passed


through a number of processes to enhance the
properties of the fabric.
Singeing:- Its the process of passing fabrics
through flame to produce an even surface by
burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends and
fuzz.
De- sizing:- It is completely removing the
size by the application of enzymes. The use of
enzymes ensures complete removal of starch
based sizes and also eliminates the need to use
aggressive chemicals.
Mercerization:-This is a treatment with caustic
soda given to cotton fabric and thread employed
to give cotton a lustrous appearance.
Drying:- The mercerized fabric is passed
through a Vertical Drying Range where drying
takes place.
Bleaching:- Bleaching is a chemical process
used to enhance the whiteness of the fabric. It
works by the process of oxidation.

DE - SIZING

FABRIC SINGEING

DYED PACKAGES
AIR JET LOOM

Page no. - 9

MERCERIZATION
www.arvindmills.com

Finishing:- Finishing process are the value addition treatments given to the fabric to make it
more attractive and appealing. There are two types of finishes
1. Chemical
2. Mechanical.
Stentering
C.P.T.
Trough
Squeezing
Straightening
Drying
Batching

ORGANISATIONAL CHART
ARVIND LIMITED

Sanforising
Stentering:- The fabric is made to pass through a solution of finishing chemicals thus wetting it.
Then it is stretched and dried. While stretching the yarns are aligned parallel.

Managing Director (Sanjay Lalbhai)

HR Deptt.

Stores

FINISHING MACHINE

Chemical Finish

Exports & Quality


domectics Assurance

STENTER

Sanforising:- Shrinking is carried out here to


obtain pre- shrunk fabrics. The finish prevents
any further shrinking of stretching of fabric.
Some other commonly used chemical finishes
are:Normal soft finish, ETI Easy to iron
finish, Mild Resin, Nano care finish, Nano
pel finish, Liquid ammonia finish, Perfumed
finish, Vitamin E finish, U-V protective
finish, Moist cure finish, Arvi-silk finish,
DPR Durable press ready finish.
Mechanical Finish
Peach Finish:- It is done by passing the fabric
on drums with emery rollers at high speed.
The friction gives a smooth feel to the fabric.
Airo Finish:- The fabric is rotated at a very
high speed and air is blown to give a soft hand
to the fabric.
Inspection and Dispatch:- It is generally
integrated with the finishing department,
responsible for making up, final quality
control and logistics.

Garment packages division

Spinning

Administration and Accounts


Administration
Accounts
Banking

Weaving

processing

Engineering
& Finishing
Order Management
& Documentation

Production
Purchases
Production

Order Management
Sampling
Documentation
Invoicing

CALENDERING

DRYING

Page no. - 11

www.arvindmills.com

PRODUCTION CAPACITIES AND CAPABILITIES


Arvind Limited has reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it is the third largest producer
of Denim in the world. High value cotton shirting fabric has been made at Arvinds 450 acre Santej
Textile Complex with a total capacity of 33 million meters per annum. The garmenting capacity of
Arvind Knits is supported by a fabric production of 4992 tones per annum. With a capacity of 18 million metres per annum the green field venture of Arvind is a sincere effort towards achieving global
dominance.
Production capacity
million yards/annum
Yarn dyed
18.7
Solid dyed
5.5
Indigo 7.7
Jacquard
0.6
Total 33.0
A capital investment of USD 100 million in a greenfield project with a capacity of 33.5 million yards
per annum and a turnover of USD 97 million per annum of 100% high value cotton shirtings has been
made at Arvinds 450-acre Santej textile complex near Ahmedabad.
Technical Excellence has been achieved through:
Investments in state-of-the-art European Technology.
World class product & design innovation.
Assurance of quality and consistency.
Flexible production has been made possible and is reflected through:
Lower minimums.
Reflection of product/fashion dynamics.
Consistency and quality.
Delivery Adherence on time every time.
Continuous product development new fibres/yarns/finishes.
Strong emphasis on design creation/modification to suit specific customer needs.

The plant has an integrated manufacturing facility from yarn to finished fabrics under one roof. The Shirting division is committed to world class quality products, with the installation of the latest technology and
continuous quality improvement program.
It is equipped with state of the art technology right from spinning of the yarn to final processing and testing of the high quality fabric. It is equipped to spin compact yarn as well as slub yarns. The state of the art
machinery includes Yarn-singeing machines, Computerized yarn-dyeing machines, automatic drawing-in
machines, etc.
The testing laboratories are equipped with the latest testing equipment, which can perform tests of international standards, and are accredited by Marks & Spencer, Next and Tommy Hilfiger. All products are
Eco-friendly and Oekotex 100 certified

Activities
Cotton
Yarn
Fabric
Denim
Shirting
Khakhi
Knits
Apparel
Denim
Shirts
Khakhi
Brands
In-house Brands
Intl licensees

Location
Akola
Ahmadabad, Santej
Naroda, Santej
Santej
Santej
Santej
Bangalore
Bangalore
Bangalore
Bangalore
Bangalore

The division believes in the philosophy On time and in full, whether it is information, product quality or order quantity. The design studio attached to the pilot mill is fully equipped to reproduce customer design samples and also to make customized seasonal collections. The SAP R/3 module facilitates
better and faster material management for our customers.

Page no. - 13

www.arvindmills.com

Arvind Industrial Park


Location
Land area
Work Force
Technology
Vertical Integration

Santej
450 Acre
1227
From around the world
Entire production facility is under one roof.

Wovens : Market Segment


Region
Volume/Annum
(Million meters)
USA
24
EUROPE
17
FAB RETAIL
20
BRANDS
12
RMG
7
TRADE
4
TOTAL

84

Mini Mill dedicated for Design & Development.

Product Portfolio

Spinning
58000 Spindles Yarn producing
100% cotton
100% cotton and poly cotton
blended yarn from 7 count to 170/2.
Products are within 25% of Uster
world statistics :
Unit 1 : 33,000 Spindles
Unit 2 : 25,000 Spindles

Products
Spinning
Fabrics
Denim
Shirting
Khaki
Knit
Voiles
Prints
Apparel
Shirts
Jeans

Capacity per annum


87.000 tons
100 mn meters
48 mn meters
18 mn meters
4200 tons
24 mn meters
5 mn meters

Yardages and blankets


7+3 Suzuki Warpers
4 Sectional Warpers
24+19 looms
Capacity : 35+15 Yardages and Blankets / day.
Handlooms
11+4 small looms for Handlooms.
5 Small sizing machines.
Capacity
: 90+30 Handlooms/day
Color Library : 600 Reactive color shade
: 200 VAT

SECTIONAL WARPER

4.5 mn units
6 mn units

Wovens Production Capacity


Products
Yarn Dyeds
Non Yarn Dyeds
Whites/Dyeds
Prints
Indigos

Capacity per annum


(Million meters)
54
23
6
7

SUZUKI WARPER
Page no. - 15

www.arvindmills.com

PRODUCT RANGE AND BRANDS


COUNTS : 16s, 20s, 24s, 30s, 2/30s, 40s, 50s, 2/50s, 60s, 2/80s, 2/100s and 2/140s
WEAVES : Twill( mainly 3/1), LHT for single yarn, RHT for double/ triple yarn,
Matt, Plain, Satin, Herringbone, Oxford ( plain & pinpoint).
BLENDS : 100% Cotton, Tencel, Linen, Modal, Polyester Cotton, Lycra, Silk, etc.
VARIETIES : Yarn-Dyed Stripes, Checks, Fil-a-fils, Chambrays and Solids in all
possible
weaves like twills, satins, dobbies and jacquards.
CHEMICAL FINISH : ETI, Stain Free, Odor Free, UV Cut, Arvi silk, Nano-Care,
Nano-Pel, etc.
MECHANICAL FINISH : Peaching, Brushing, Biancalani, etc.
INDIGO/SULPHUR : Indigo and sulphur-dyed casual products - 3.25 oz. to 8.0 oz.
in counts 24s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 2/80s and 2/100s.

Arvind has largest portfolio of International brands: Lee, Wrangler, Jansport. Kipling, Tommy, Arrow, US Polo, Izod, Pierre Cardin, Palm Beach, Cherokee, Hart Schaffner, Max and many more.
Feeling the pulse of society Arvind is successfully launching its in-house brands like Excalibur, Flying Machine, Ruff & Tuff and New Port University

CUSTOMERS

USA Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Ann taylor, Banana Republic, DKNY, Perry Ellis, Eddie Bauer,
Lane Bryant, Polo, JC Penny, kohls, A&F, Lands End, Liz Claiborne, Dockers, May Dept, Mervyns,
Nauatica, Nordstrom, Old navy, Oxford ind, J- Jill, Talbots, Acolt, Express, Kohls, Oshkosh, Phat
Farm, J Crew, Roccawear, Brooks Brothers, Massimo Dutti, Lords and Taylor.

Shirting (Dress)
Fibers
Yarns
Counts
Product
Finishes

: Cotton (Giza 45, Giza 76, Pima), Stretch (Lycra,XLA), Viscose,


Linen
: Compact, Singed, Two-Ply, Three-Ply, Four-Ply etc.
: 16S, 50s/1 to 100/1, 80/2 to 170/2s.
: Dobby Structures, Satin, Poplins, Twills, Oxfords, Herringbones,
Jacquard.
: Prepress, Everfresh,Silk Touch, Anti-stain, Perma-White

Shirting (Casual)
Fibers
Categories
Counts
Product
Finishes

: Cotton, Organic, Linen, Mlange, Grindle, Stretch, Tencel, Modal


etc
: Yarn dyed , Solid dyed, Prints, Light weight Denim
: 16s - 80s/2
: Poplins, Twills, Oxfords, Herringbones, Structures
: Aero Finish, Carbonium Peach, Diamond Energizing and Brushing


EUROPE - Marks & Spsencer, Next, Espirit, Cortefiel, FC UK, Tom Tailor, Mavi Jeans,
Speedo, Spring Field, Mastai Ferrati, Nicole Ferrati, Kenzo, Carrefour, Pull and Bear, Peter Werth,
Burberry, Facconable, Emidio Tucci, Ahlers, Ben Sherman, Benetton, Farhi, Marc o polo, Devenhams,
French Connection.

Khakhis
Fibers
Categories
Count
Product
Finish

: Cotton, Stretch (Lycra, XLA), Linen, Viscose, Bamboo, Polyester


etc
: Solid Dyed (Reactive , Pigment and Sulphur), Yarn dyed, Prints.
: 7/1 to 80/2, 4/120s
: Canvas, Twills, Herringbones, Structured weaves, Satin
: Aero Finish, Carbonium Peach, Diamond Energizing, Super Soft,
Everfresh, Prepress.

Page no. - 17

www.arvindmills.com


INDIA- Allen Solly, Color Plus, Indian Terrain, Park Avenue, Louis Philippe, Manzoni,
Van Huesen, Pantaloon, Blackberry, Peter England, Barc Leisure, Anna Belle, ITC Wills, Indus
League, Scullers, Urbana, Megamart.

MATERIALS AND MANUFACTURING PROCESS


The industry integrates weaving, dying and finishing and is well equipped to weave and
process 100% cotton as well as blends. Microprocessor controlled equipment with robotic
storage system allow quick response to trends. The labs are accredited by Marks & Spenser.
The PPC department is functioning well with ERP(Enterprise resource planning) by using
software like SAP and DATATEX

Tencel and blends

ARVIND BRANDS

Own Brands- Flying Machine, Newport, Ruggers, Ruf & Tuf, Excalibur.

Licenced Brands- Arrow, Lee, Wrangler, Tommy Hilfiger, Gant, Sansabelt, Izod,
Cherokee.

100% tencel
Tencel cotton/linen/wool/
nylon/poly
Tencel Lycra
Indigo tencel
Modal and blends
100% modal
Modal -cotton/linen /poly
Silk and blends
100% silk
Silk cotton/linen
Tactel blends
Tactel cotton
Other blends

COMPETITORS

Madure Garments, Raymonds, Levis, Bombay Dyeing, Indus League, Provogue, Zodiac.

Cool max- cotton


Cotton poly Lycra
Cotton nylon Lycra
Cotton poly micro filament
Cotton core spun
Cotton - viscose

Page no. - 19

www.arvindmills.com

finishes

Process Specific :-

Nano - pel
Nano- care
Teflon sr and terlon ht
Anti microbial
Mosquito repellent
Scented
Moisture management
Arvi silk
Arvi platinum finish

Processing
Mechanical stretch
Core filament cotton for higher DP
rating
Micro fiber with aero finish
Easy to iron with extra softness
Fiber blends

Quality Management
The 5s working definitions are
applied which carries the quality
management:
1- Sort.
2- Set in order.
3- Shine
4- Standardize and
5- Sustain.
It also reduces the waste and promotes
the quality.

TYPES OF COTTON FIBERS USED IN ARVIND


Name and place
Quality
NHH-44 from India
Long and strong cotton
Ethel from brazil
Long and strong cotton
USI 1/8 from America

Long and strong cotton
Shankar-6 (super) from India
Long and strong cotton
Bunny Brahma from India
Long and strong cotton
MCU-5 from India
Extra long very short cotton
Karo from west Africa
Long strong cotton
Juli (mali)
Long strong cotton
Bola s burkina faso
Extra long and extra strong cotton
Gizza 76 from Egypt
Extra long extra strong cotton
Gizza 45 from Egypt
Extra long and strong cotton
Acala cotton from Sudan
Long strong cotton
Raw cotton from Australia
Long strong cotton
SJV Acala up laud from America Long and very strong cotton
Pima from Australia
Extra long and very srong cotton
Pima from Israel
Extra long and very strong cotton
Pima from America
Extra long and very strong cotton
CISELS from Turkmenistan
Extra long and very strong cotton
Barakrt from Sudan
Extra long and very strong cotton
DCH-32 super from India
Extra long and very strong cotton
MCU 5 from India
Extra long and very strong cotton
ELS 1- 7/16 from china
Extra long and very strong cotton

SpinningArvind Limited is committed to produce quality yarn for world class shirting with optimum cost within
stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.
Spinning: is a process of converting fibers into yarns. Fibers have to undergo certain processes from blowing to winding to take the shape of yarn.
Blow room
Carding
Predrawfame
Unilap
Comber
Post draw frame
Speed frame
Ring frame
Random winding
Assembly winding
TFO
Singeing
Page no. - 21

www.arvindmills.com

Blow room:
Here, the bales of cotton fibers sourced from various ginning mills are laid, spread out and
opened up. The blending happens with the help of Blendomat, a machine that moves with
toothed rollers running along then bales thus opening and blending them in layers. These are
then fed into a machine by vacuum suction for cleaning and transported further by blowing air.
They move through chambers where the dust and other impurities embedded in the fibers are
separated out. Clean fiber tufts are sent to the carding section through overhead channels. There
are 3 blowers of TRUTZSCHER BO 046 and 1 blendomat of TRUTZSCHER VDT 019. The
rpm of blower is 72-140. There is facility to do three different mixing fiber types
simultaneously.

Drawing:
Pre draw frame: 8 carded slivers are fed into the drawing machine where they are combined
and drawn into a single sliver using some tension. The sliver is made more uniform in terms of
mass per unit length, parallel and improved. A relative humidity of 51-53% and temperature of
33-35% are maintained on the floor. Breaker sliver is the output.
Unilap: Here 24-26 breaker slivers are combined to form a single lap sheet. A single roll of lap
weighs is 1 kg. Comber lap emerges out of this machine.
Comber: The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by rollers with teeth. Short
fibers are pulled out.Finely smooth, parallely aligned slivers in which individual fibers can be
pulled out easily are produced after combing. 8 laps are combined to form 1 combed sliver.
Post draw frame: 6 combed slivers are further combined, paralellised and the sliver quality is
improved by drawing. The mass/ length is reduced. These are called finished sliver.

Carding:
Individualization of fibers takes place. Neps are removed. A uniform and long sliver is formed
which is collected in drums. They are called carded sliver that is of continuous length and collected in one drum at once. The TRUTZSCHER machines DK 760, KHC 891 and FDK 533 are
employed here. The are 14 machines in one row and 7 in another. The drums were marked with
colored rubber ribbons according to the count of yarn to be spun from that sliver.

Speedframe:
Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing under tension
through roller pairs. The bobbins are placed one by one in rows and the armed flyer of the
machine is lowered to the level of a black ring on it. 2 rounds of roving are wound to begin
with, and the guide on the arm carries it all around the bobbin thus winding it parallely. A much
finer thread of fibers are produced.

Page no. - 23

www.arvindmills.com

Ring frame:
This is the process of formation of yarn. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by imparting twist. 4 pairs of rollers with and without groves play the drawing action thus reducing
the mass/length and forming yarn. These are wound on smaller spindles.

Assembly winding:
Here, 2 cones are used to double the yarn. There is no twist, but only parallel winding of 2 or
more yarns for ply and wound on cheese.

TFO:
Random winding/ cone winding:
Yarns from the bobbin are transferred to bigger packages called cone on simple cone winder/
mach winder or Autoconer. Bobbins placed in magazine are moved through channels and
detected for loose ends. Those with free end are transported further and attached to the loose
end present in the cone continuing the winding process. Then they are just spliced with each
other thus avoiding knotting to get better efficiency in weaving. The bobbins when empty are
tracked back to be collected by vacuum suction and dropped into a bin.

The two for one twist machine is for twisting the plied yarn and produces bigger cones. To
prevent sloughing off, here, a guide takes the yarn around the package forming a firm setting.
A cone weighs app 1.8 kg. Z/Z twist is given.

Page no. - 25

www.arvindmills.com

Singeing:
The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature, pressure and maintaining
other specifications. This is done to remove loose fibers and short hairs that cause
disturbance in the smoothness of the yarn. CNG is used as fuel and singed yarn is obtained
as output.2 machines are currently being employed now to solve the working efficiency of
the factory.

Rewinding
The yarns are again rewound after they are singed. This
results in the removal of the black soot from the surface of
the yarns. The yarns are now kept packed under some cover
ready to go for dyeing. The package is called a pallet, which
consists of 315 cones in each. Each cone weighs 1 - 1.5 kg.
The no. Of rewinding machines are 2 under the singeing
shed area and are known by the name main pilot motor.

Spinning
is a process of converting fibers into yarns. Fibers have to undergo certain processes from blow
room to winding room to take the shape of yarn. In blow room the bales of cotton are laid,
spread out and opened up with the help of blendomat and the cotton contamination controller. In
Arvind the Chute feed system works for further process. Then the individualization of fibers take
place called Carding. 21 TRUTZSCHLER carding machines are their. Then slivers are fed into
a drawing machine where they are combined and drawn. 12 draw frames are employed here out
of which 6 for pre-draw frame and 6 for post-draw frame. The laps are fed into the system where
they are combed by rollers with tooth. Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight
twist & drawing under tension through roller pairs. There are 34 Lakshmi Ring Frames in which
1008 bobbins can get filled in a single machine. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by
imparting twist. Hence the process of formation of yarns completed. Yarns from the bobbin are
transferred to bigger packages called cone by the process called Winding. Soft package winding
is done for dying. Then it goes to yarn singeing and/or to yarn dyeing as per requirements. There
are two types of yarn dyeing frames spring frame and P.P. tube.

Weaving
For Weaving, the mission is to achieve zero weaving defects with continuous improvement in
process control parameters & training of people.
The yarn is transferred from single packages of yarn to an even sheet of yarn representing a
number of sectioned bands of color wound onto a warp beam. Before applying onto the loom
shed Sizing of warp is necessary, it is the application of starch on the warp yarns to overcome
tension levels in warp and to overcome the
effects of abrasion and friction. Four Sucker
Muller (Hacoba) machine is applied for the
sizing. After that denting and drafting is done
and then interlacing of warp and weft yarns
is done to produce the fabric. The shed holds
170 looms which includes 98 Air-jet looms
and 72 Rapier looms. The Omni air-jet and
Gamma rapier looms are of PICANOL. The
speed of Air-jet loom is 720 rpm and 270300 mts fabric are woven per loom per day
whereas the speed of Rapier loom is 520 rpm
and the production is around 200 mts/loom/
day. After the weaving the inspection is required i.e. the examination of every yard of
fabric as the fabric moves slowly across a
lighted inspection table. The significant flaws
are noted and defects get corrected by gray
mending and finish mending. There are 21
grey
inspection tables. Then again the fabric rolls
are made and batching is done by combining
similar kind of rolls in huge batches for
further processes. Here two batching
machines are
working with an average speed of
2000mts/hr.

Page no. - 27

www.arvindmills.com

WEAVING PREPARATORY

RE-WINDINGThe final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perforated bobbins to form
soft cheeses that will be sent for winding.
According to number of packages required
for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding machines have a capacity of 50 spindles
and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir
machines can hold 120 spindles at once. A
constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.

SECTIONAL WARPINGThe pattern for a fabric requires yarn of


specific length, number and color. These are
wound on the warp beam in this section. A
creel of capacity 720 cones holds the yarns.
These are drawn through a leasing reed
and warping reed and the emerging pattern wound on warping drum and finally on
warping beam. There are 8 rows on the creel,
which holds the yarns according to the warp
pattern. For shirting, the pattern is placed
alternately, i.e. 13572468 upwards. Each row
is used as layer for leasing. 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every section and a
50% lease towards the end. The 7 lease help
in sizing to separate layers in order prevent
sticking together. 50% leasing helps in drawing.

RE-WINDING

SIZINGA Sucker Muller (hacoba) make machine is


employed for sizing. The yarns from warp
beam are passed through size solution, which
includes modified starch, binders and softeners.
12 rollers dry the sized yarns. All ends on the
warp beam are taped on both sides twice along
the length to prevent slipping. At the rear end,
7 lease rods separate the layers and yarns pass
through a zigzag reed with even dents to ensure
uniformity. They get wound on a beam called
weavers beam. The first 7-8 metres of warp
are cut and removed, as these would not have
received proper sizing.

For double colored patterns, the yarns
directly from beam dyeing are brought and the
combination takes place during the sizing and
drying and the total yarns for warp emerges and
winds on weavers beam.

After sizing they are coded, codes fed
on computer and stored on shelves with pulleys.
As and when required it is possible to give the
code and obtain the beam.

SIZING

LOOM SHED
After warping and drafting the weavers beam
along with the drop wire heald shaft and reed
are loaded on the frame of the loom. The loom
shed has a capacity of 170 looms all together.

SECTIONAL WARPING

LOOM SHED

Page no. - 29

www.arvindmills.com

There are two different types of machines present in the loom shed: 1. Airjet
2. Rapier

There are 98 Airjet looms for weaving


plain fabrics and operates at a speed of
720 rpm. It works on the principle of
cam shedding. The production capacity
of these machines is 270 to 300 meters
of fabric per loom per day.
Maximum of six colors can be used as
weft. Most of these looms can weave
designs using 4 shafts, while some of
the looms have 8 shafts to make slightly
complicated designs.
The rapier looms are 72 in number
and are used for weaving fancy fabrics
through dobby. About 200 meters of
fabric are produced by one loom in a
day. Up to 8 colors can be inserted as
weft. 16 to 20 shafts are used to make
woven designs.

AIR JET LOOM

Processing
For Processing, the mission is To add significant value to yarn and fabric at every processing stage, with continuous improvement in quality & customer service.
Fabric singeing is done to remove the hairiness of the fabric by passing it through flame at a very
high speed then it goes for de-sizing in which the starch is removed that was applied during the
sizing process onto the yarns. One OSTHOF m/c is employed for singeing and de-sizing both.
The target production for one shift is around 35,000 mts. After de-sizing the rotation of the batch
is required for 8 hrs to avoid accumulation of chemicals at one place. Then washing is done which
includes one steaming and two fresh water wash. The Mercerization process comes to give the
fabric- luster and an affinity to dye by Kyoto machine. The speed of production is 25-50 mts/min.
Most of the fabrics require the Bleaching process in which the whiteness of the fabric is increased
by oxidation. A batch of 5000-6000 mts is bleached at any given time. Fabric dyeing is done
only when the fabric has to be dyed in a single flat color. PDPS m/c is used for reactive and vat
dyes; other m/cs are Jigger and Jet-dye machine. BENNINGER m/cs are employed for continuous bleaching, dyeing and mercerization. There are three methods of fabric Printing that is done
here- Table printing, Rotary printing and Digital printing. Separate screen for separate color design
is used. Speed of production in Rotary m/c is 50-80 mts/min. There is one DuPond Artistri 2020
machine of OUPONT is used for digital printing which has a production speed of 11mts/hr. After
printing is done the color fixation is required which is performed by the processes Ageing and Curing for reactive and pigment printing respectively. In ageing the fabric is passed through steam at
150C for 7 minute whereas in Curing the fabric is passed through steam of 102C for 5 minutes

AUTO DRAWING IN MACHINE


(STAUBY DELTA 200)
The sized beam with 50% lease is attached to a weaving assembly truck.
Th free ends are pulled vertically and
clamped on the brush beam. They are
combed slightly and fitted on drawing
in machine. Then the heald frames are
inserted. Drop wires and heald wires
are filled in magazines that will be used
during drawing. Rapier action draws
in yarns by breaking them and pulling
though heald, drop wire and dent, which
forms a straight line. The reed moves
as the denting proceeds to occupy the
position to catch the yarn. All specifications as drafting order, denting order are
stored in computer. Constant monitoring
is required to avoid errors

RAPIER LOOM

Page no. - 31

www.arvindmills.com

YARN DYEING
The swatches sent by the customer to be reproduced are considered as standard on which the yarn
color depends. The swatches could be in the form of fabric, yarn or paper cuttings. The count of
yarn required, the light source to be tested under, process following dyeing before matching, any
special remarks, the required quantity are all mentioned in a specification sheet and received from
the design and development department.

Then they refer to their library where almost one lakh shades and their recipes have been recorded. The shade that is closest to the given swatch is chosen and recipe is modified till the perfect
shade is achieved. The recipes of different trial are recorded in the work sheet.

Yarn is dyed in package form in closed system. HTHP machines are used and the capacity varies
from 100 to 700 kg. The weight of the package is 12kgs to 78kgs. The quantity of yarn to be dyed
in a particular shade will be specified by the PPC department.
Usually reactive and vat dyes are used for dyeing. Generally reactive HE dyes are dyed at 80 C
since these are hot brand dyes. The dye bath is ready at 70 C and gradually increased. For vat dyes
it depends on dye-class. The pressure exercised is 3kg/cm3. It takes about 8 1 / 2 hours to complete the entire process that includes pretreatment and dyeing of the yarn.
Cold brand dyes are not used since they have lower fastness and not suitable for mercerization
process. Hence never used in shirting. HEXL and vat dyes are used for mercerization.

AUTOLAB- &@ DISPENSERThere is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific
proportions to get any shade. This
is a computerized process and requires little intervention manually.

To check the uniformity of dyeing, yarn from 4 different layers of a package is wound on a card
and compared. This is referred to as the within package leveling report.
The Recipe includes:

SOLUTION MAKERTo prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A beaker is placed
in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye that can be added is shown on the
screen. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired
concentration entered in the system. Water is filled to achieve that concentration.
Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn or the fabric
swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time. The machines which are
used are:
1.
turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms.
2.
Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. 5gms
3.
Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms

Pretreatment- Scouring
1.
Sequestering/ Chelating agent
2.
De-aerating cum wetting agent
3.
Alkali-caustic/ soda ash
Pretreatment- Bleaching
1.
Hydrogen peroxide
2.
Stabilizer for peroxide
Acid for neutralization
Dyeing- Reactive
1.
Color (HE/ME)
2.
Salt (for exhaustion)
3.
Soda ash (for fixation)
4.
Leveling agent

TURBOMAT

SPETRA DYE

INFRARED COLOUR

Dyeing- Vat
1. Color
2.
Sodium hydro sulphite (reducing agent)
3.
Caustic (to make vat soluble in water)
4.
H2O2 (oxidizing agent)

Then the samples are washed in open bath beaker mechanically. The ratio of chemicals and temperature depends upon the shade of the dye. Then the sample is dried in the dryer. The dried yarn is then
wound on to a card The yarn card is placed before
Page no. - 33

www.arvindmills.com

Procedure
Bleaching: LS, SPLF, STCP and caustic are taken at room temperature and raised to 50 C. it
is stirred for 5 min in mixing vessel and brought to the dyeing chamber. H2O2 is added at 95
C and stirred for 30 min. it is drained of chemicals.

PIECE DYEING
The swatch obtained from the customer is measured for the color by computer. A close shade is predicted and recipe obtained. This is a computerized color matching system.

Washing: H2O2 and alkali are removed by treatment with hot water at 95 C for 10 minutes.
It is washed in cold water for 2 minutes. The peroxide and alkali are neutralized with acetic
acid and 10L.

Dyeing takes place in stages following procedures according to the type of dye. These are:
1.
Vat pigment- Caladon(pad-dry-cure)
2.
Vat- (pad-dry- pad- steam)
3.
Reactive- (cold- pad- batch-wash)

Dyeing: Fresh hot water is taken in the dyeing chamber, LSER and SPLF (wetting agent)
are added to soften the water. This is stirred for 10 minutes and salt added. Again stirring happens. The color is added finally and boiled at 80 C for 30 minutes. The liquor
is sent back to mixing vessel where soda ash is added for fixation. It is sent to the dyeing chamber and treated at 80 C for 45 minutes. The solution is drained and material is
washed for 10 minutes at 80 C. IN OUT for reactive dyes and IN OUT and OUT
IN for vat dyes.

MATHIS PADDING MANGLE: a continuous process of dyeing, the sample is


inserted into the solution and taken out
between two rollers.

Soaping: ADW is added to wash off extra dyes. This also reduces the dyes thus fixing them
permanently. Th procedure is for 20 minutes at 95C. Washing with fresh water at 80 C for 10
minutes is done. Cold wash is carried out after this followed by rinsing and drying.
Shade matching: Once the yarn is dried it is sent for shade matching in computer.
Drying: If the yarn matches, YL is added for lighter shade and Supra for darker shade are
added for softening and fixing. Then the package goes to RF machine for drying which takes
1- 1.5 hrs.

MATHIS DRIER: the time is set and


fabric inserted. Drying and curing take
place here. A maximum of 250 C can be
achieved.

MATHIS PADDING
MANGLE

SPECTRA LIGHT

MATHIS PAD STEAM RANGE: fabric


is fed from one side and moves along
rollers while being treated with caustic+
hydrose, steam, H2O2 , soap + soda, hot
water and cold water.
VERIVIDE and SPECTRA LIGHT are
light boxes used for color matching visually. The different lights UV, TC 84, D65 (daylight), F-11 Filament, Cold white,
incandescent, U30, Horizon etc are used
according to specification of the customer. Matching is done in unprocessed
stage or after bleaching, mercerization,
optical brightening or their combination.
Codes are allotted to each shade according to the type of dye used, quantity and
basic color. These codes are useful for
reference.

MATHIS DRIER

MATHIS PAD STEAM RANGE


Page no. - 35

www.arvindmills.com

Finishing

Finishing is the combined process of value addition of the fabric as per the requirements. The
fabric is treated in Stenter where it is made to pass through a solution of finishing chemical with
Polyethylene emulsion and squeezed. After that in Straightening Unit the weft yarns are aligned
parallel with the help of photo-sensered cameras. Sanforising prevents any further stretching or
shrinking of fabrics while being used by consumer. We pass the fabric between rubber beds and
over hot rollers shrinks it to desired width. For Sanforising and Stentering Machines of MONFORTS are employed. Then the fabric goes for specific kind of finishes like Arvi-silk finish,
Soft finish, ETI, Mild resin, Nano care finish, Liquid ammonia, Micro scent, Anti-microbal,
Vitamin-E, U-V protective, Moistcure etc. There are some mechanical finishes which dont
need any chemical or water. Calendar finish, peach finish and Airo finish come in this category.
Calendar finish increases the shinning whereas peach adds toughness to the fabric. Two LAFER
machines are employed for mechanical finish

DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT

The division has an in-house Design Studio with a team of qualified professional
designers. The design Studio is fully equipped with latest technologies. It gets continuous design
inputs on latest international trends from designers based in Italy and UK. Great emphasis on
Design and Product Development.
23 in house designers, qualified from Internationally reputed institutes. Italian and Spanish
designers on board.
Our designers constantly predict market trends offering our customers a wide range of
products.
Each season we design, collections in fresh colors expressing our deep knowledge of
fabrics.

Range Collections:
Season-wise collections for S/S and A/W.
Customized collections for key customers(based on their concepts/inputs).
Stock Service through the Classic Line Collection.

Page no. - 37

www.arvindmills.com

Facilities:
Computer Aided Designing
A mini mill dedicated to design & development
Sample sizing & warping for desk loom samples & road samples
Independent weaving for sample making
Small package dyeing machine for new shades
Comprehensive shade library to enable quick responses.

We are a one stop shop of Fabrics and Apparel.


Showrooms
Ahmedabad
New York
Hong Kong
Dhaka

Mini Mill dedicated for Design & Development.


Yardages and blankets
7+3 Suzuki Warpers
4 Sectional Warpers
24+19 looms
Capacity : 35+15 Yardages and Blankets / day.
Handlooms
11+4 small looms for Handlooms.
5 Small sizing machines.
Capacity
: 90+30 Handlooms/day
Color Library : 600 Reactive color shade
: 200 VAT
SANTEJ SHOWROOM
The design house is divided into 2 sections the DDC department and the design studio. The
recent developments and the new ones are generated here with the help of cad system .tex cad
is the software which is brought into use by the well skilled designers here.
When the cads are approved then the sampling is one through the ddc department. The total
sampling is done here. First the handlooms are generated and then it sent to the clients for approval. when the approvals are done then the running yardages of 20 60 meters are developed
here to see how the fabrics look in the running stage .once the approvals is done from the client
side then the final bulk production takes place. Apart from this the major portion of the DDC
dealing is analysis of the samples from outside clients and developments done on the basis of
the analysis. The samples come in the form of small pieces, may be fabric imitations, paper
designs copying, cutting from the magazines or other sources. Once the sample is analyzed then
it is sent for desk loom development.

NEW YORK SHOWROOM

Page no. - 39

www.arvindmills.com

QUALITY ASSURANCE
QA Lab is accredited by
Marks & Spencers
Levis
L L Bean
Next
Gap Inc
Invista (For Lycra Testing)
Liz Claiborne (Under Process)
We are Oekotex-100 certified.
Arvind is certified to Eco Sustainable textiles standards and Organic Exchange 100
We are committed to Fair Trade and our product meets the Fair trade
principles.
Vigilant On-Line and Off-Line QA at all stages of Production to sustain consistent Product.
There are certain quality tests that the yarns have to undergo at each stage to ensure total quality assurance. The testing starts at its infancy i.e. in the fiber stage only there are certain relevant
tests, which a fiber has to undergo before it is sent further.

1.HVI SPECTRUM (High Volume Instrument) ZELLWEGER USTER


This is a prime instrument, which fulfills all the requirements and measures the different parameters for cotton to be used in production.the different criteria, which it detects, are as follows:
1.length of the fiber
2.uniformity in the length
3.strength of the fiber
4.elongation or elastic behavior of the fiber
5.short fiber length (no. of fibers lesser than
)
6.Rd: the color i.e. the degree of yellowness or
whiteness of the fibers.
7.the percentage of coarseness and fineness of
the fiber i.e. the micronaire measurement.
Around 150-200 gms of fibers are taken for
testing.

2. FIBRO SAMPLER- HVI 900

Variety of cotton
Assam comila
Bengal deshi
Kalagin
Wagad
Jaydhar
G 12
G 11/Digvijay
V 797
J 34
F 414
H 777
Agetti
DHY 286
AHH 486
NHH 44
LRA 5166
MCH 1/11
JKHY 1
MECH 1
H 4/ H 6
S 6
S 4
MCU 5
DCH 32
SUVIN
AK 277
G 6
Y 1
AKHG
CJ 73
A 51/9
1007
Varalakshmi

Region of procurement Span length mm


Assam
Below 15
Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan
16-18
Gujarat
19-21
Gujarat
21-22
Karnataka
21-22
Gujarat
21-23
Gujarat, Rajasthan
21-23
Gujarat
24-26
Rajasthan, Punjab, Haryana
23-26
Punjab
26-28
Haryana
24-26
Rajasthan
24-26
Maharashtra
24-26
Maharashtra
24-28
Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu
25-27
Maharashtra
24-28
Maharashtra
25-27
Andhra Pradesh
26-28
Madhya Pradesh
26-28
Maharashtra, AP, MP
27-29
Gujarat
27-30
Rajasthan, Gujarat
28-30
AP, TN
30-35
MP, Maharashtra, AP, TN, Karnataka
33-38
AP, TN
36-39
Maharashtra
AP
MP, Maharashtra
Maharashtra
Gujarat
MP
AP, MP, Maharashtra
Maharashtra

This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except


color. A comb is used to take out fiber beard, which is used to feed the
machine.

3. USTER MDTA 3
This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and
the output includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The
clean cotton serves as a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.
Page no. - 41

www.arvindmills.com

Yarn fault-testing
Types of cotton fibers used in Arvind
Name and place
NHH-44 from India
Ethel from brazil
USI 1/8 from America
Shankar-6 (super) from India
Bunny Brahma from India
MCU-5 from India
Karo from west Africa
Juli (mali)
Bola s burkina faso
Gizza 76 from Egypt
Gizza 45 from Egypt
Acala cotton from Sudan
Raw cotton from Australia
SJV Acala up laud from America
Pima from Australia
Pima from Israel
Pima from America
CISELS from Turkmenistan
Barakrt from Sudan
DCH-32 super from India
MCU 5 from India
ELS 1- 7/16 from china

quality
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Long and strong cotton
Extra long very short cotton
Long strong cotton
Long strong cotton
Extra long and extra strong cotton
Extra long extra strong cotton
Extra long and strong cotton
Long strong cotton
Long strong cotton
Long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very srong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton
Extra long and very strong cotton

CLASSIMATThis instrument tests faults in the yarn. 100 km


of yarn can be tested at once. The thick and thin,
long and short areas of the yarn are detected and
categorized according to the severity. In a graph,
A1, B1, C1denotes the length of the fault,
while A1, A2, A3denotes the mass of the yarn
which in turn is a measure of thickness. If the
resultant value falls under E, it is a long and thick
area. F and G of the graph show thin and long
areas.

USTER TENSOJETThis is a single yarn strength-testing instrument.


It runs at a speed of 400 m per min. 500 readings
are taken each out of 10 packages of one sample.
It gives the values in unit of force/ count = g/tex.
Elongation of the yarn is also measured.

USTER UNEVENESS TESTERThis tests and reads thick places (+50%),


thin places (-50%) and neps (200%). At a
speed of 400m/min, yarn from 10 packages
is tested. The Uneveness % and hairiness as
a sum of total hair lengths are obtained
At stages of ring winding, roving, cone
winding etc tests are conducted many times
a week to ensure consistency. This is inprocess checking

TWIST TESTERAccording to the required specifications twist of


the yarn is measured in this which involves different methods for single, doubled and open end
yarn.

Page no. - 43

www.arvindmills.com

AFIS (ADVANCED FIBER


INFORMATION SYSTEM)An in process testing system
for detecting neps, length,
micronaire till roving stage.

WRAP BLOCKIt is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for the next
process

COSTING
Costing is decided as per several stages from Picking up the fiber to the finishing of the fabric.
These stages summed up together add-on to the final cost of the fabric.
The end usage of the fabric manufactured by Arvind is garments and the buyer of the fabric
is basically a garment manufacturer. Different apparel manufacturing companies have different types of requirement as per the weight of the fabric (GSM), weave, count, construction
(EPI and PPI), percentage of colour usage, finish of the fabric etc. the entire cost of the fabric
depends on all of the above mentioned parameters. So accordingly after considering all these
factors including the production cost, overheads and the Profit margins, the Price of the fabric
is quoted to the apparel manufacturer.

YARN BOARD WINDERIs done when required. Here, the yarn is wound
on black or white board according to its own
color and analyzed subjectively for slubs.

ELECTRONIC LEA STRENGTH TESTERThe lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking
strength is tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product).
HAIRINESS TESTEROn the basis of optical principle, the hairiness is measured as the number of hairs per unit length for 24 mm.

Page no. - 45

www.arvindmills.com

MARKETING AND DISTRIBUTION


Marketing Capability Factors
Marketing capability factors could be segregated into three basics categories:
Product
Promotion
Price

Product
Unisex leisure/fashion fabric both for international and domestic market
High quality fabric for mens formal shirts and bottom both for international and
domestic market
Fashion fabric for women primarily for domestic women
Readymade garments for men-shirts and jeans
Wide range of textile products and brands

Promotion
Creating awareness : An initial challenge
Creating customer orientation
Focused on encouraging awareness of denim and high premium garments
Goal of developing long term trusting relationship with patients

Price
lower prices in comparison to the competitors due to the availability of low cost
domestic cotton and labour

EMERGING SHIFT OF INTERNATIONALGARMENT BUSINESS

DOMESTIC MARKET ENVIRONMENT


CONSUMER DEMAND
The consumer in the household sector demanded better quality fabric.
TRADE CHANNELS
The trade channel comprised of agents and wholesalers which were very slow to
change and continued to demand conventional products.
These trade channels held a very powerful position in the textile distribution

Retail DivisionMainly for domestic market and management process. It is market sensitive. The department
mainly has to see what the final outcome of the product is:
always in touch with internal+ external customers
need to know when to produce what
fashion cycle+ high international margin/ international customers behave in a
different way
In export Arvind basically sells through buying offices like impulse, li and fung etc or directly and even through RMGs (Ready Made Garments) like Ranger and brfl (Bombay rayon
fashions limited) etc.
In domestic brands Arvind targets the customer directly like Louis Philippe, Colorplus, and
Indian terrain etc.
In retail market too Arvind has direct links with middleman or agents or direct fabric selling retailers. RMGs are ready made garment converters for export brands. They always
buy fabric and then make shirts, trousers, jackets etc. and sell it to export brands. In Arvind
like Ranger is supplying to GANT, SCOTCH AND SODA and REPALY. The same thing is
done in Arvind export division Bangalore. They take fabrics from Arvind Ahmedabad and
then convert it into ready to wear garments for many brands like GAP, BROOKS, ESPRIT,
MEXX, LUCKY JEANS etc.

Reason
Low cost of domestically produced cotton.
Low cost of labor
Weak currency

Page no. - 47

www.arvindmills.com

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
small scale projects
brand studies
Abercrombie & Fitch

Holding the corporate social responsibility(CSR) Arvind runs vocational programs for rural
poor of the Khedbrahma taluka of Gujarats Sabarkantha district. In 1995 Arvind owned the
SHARDA (Strategic help alliance for relief to distressed areas) trust to improve physical environment and living conditions of rural areas.
At Arvind, they place the social and environmental responsibilities at the
center of our management philosophy and our business.
Arvind has made comprehensive efforts to identify, monitor, minimize and continually
reduce the environmental footprint of its operations and offer good working conditions.
Arvind continuously explore ways to foster environmental consciousness and awareness
at all levels of the organization, in the communities where they carry on business, and among
the farmers, suppliers and other stakeholders with whom we deal.

is a American fashion retailer, headed by chairman and CEO Michael S. Jeffries. The A&F brand
itself focuses on casualwear and accessories for a
target consumer ages of 18 through 22. With over
300 locations in the United States, the brand has
embarked on international expansion throughout
various world markets. The company also operates three off-shoot brands: Abercrombie, Hollister Co., Ruehl and Gilly Hicks (targeting consumers between the ages of 12 to 30).
Founded in 1892 in Manhattan by David T. Abercrombie, A&F had been an elite outfitter of sporting and excursion goods. It struggled financially
from the late 1960s until it was purchased by
The Limited in 1988 and repositioned, under the
management of Mike Jeffries, as the aspirational
Casual Luxury lifestyle brand in present form.

Arvind - Education & Social Endeavors


Arvind runs 6 schools, 12 colleges and 5 other institutions in Ahmedabad.
Arvind family is associated with formation of premier management institute of country
the Indian Institute of Management (IIM Ahmedabad).
Arvind has established a Blind Mens Association.
The family is also engaged in Rural Development.
It is also a founding trustee of a Cancer hospital.

Page no. - 49

www.arvindmills.com

Banana Republic
Banana Republic is an American clothing brand
founded by Mel and Patricia Ziegler in 1978 as
a travel-themed clothing company. It was bought
by Gap in 1983. The company has over 500 stores
located internationally
The first Banana Republic storefront was located
in Mill Valley, California. In conjunction with the
storefront, the Zieglers also started a mail-order
catalogue that became an instant success. The catalogue featured clothing from striking locales and
had narrative stories throughout. The catalogues
success allowed the Zieglers to open a second
storefront a year later. Today the Banana Republic
has over 400 retail stores and generates 2.4 billion
in annual revenue.

Eddie Bauer
Eddie Bauer is an outdoor brand that offers signature outerwear; mens and womens clothing,
gear and accessories; and world-class mountaineering gear. All built to one standardto be
the best.

Bauer continued to design and experiment with sporting equipment and outerwear. In
1942, at the request of the United States Army,
he developed the B-9 Flight Parka, which
became known as the Bomber Jacket since it
was worn by thousands of World War II (193945) pilots. The company also provided the
military with flight suits, sleeping bags, packs,
snowshoes, and clothing as well. Approximately four hundred employees worked round-theclock shifts to keep up with the demand.

Page no. - 51

www.arvindmills.com

Esprit
Esprit is an international youthful lifestyle brand offering smart, affordable
luxury and bringing newness and style to
life. The Group operates more than 800
directly managed retail stores worldwide
and distributes its products via more than
14,000 wholesale locations internationally, occupying total selling space of
over 1.1 million square metres in more
than 40 countries.

Gap Inc
Gap Inc. is a leading international specialty retailer offering clothing, accessories and personal care products for
men, women, children and babies under
the Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy,
Piperlime and Athleta brand names. Gap
brand includes Gap, GapKids, babyGap
and gapbody. The company also operates
Gap Outlet and Banana Republic Factory Outlet stores

Esprit licenses its logo to third-party


licensees that offer products bearing
the same Esprit quality and essence to
consumers. Esprit also operates the Red
Earth cosmetic brand which includes
cosmetics, skin care and body care products.

Page no. - 53

www.arvindmills.com

H&M

J. Crew

H&M clothing (H and M standing for Hennes


& Mauritz AB), is a Swedish company, known
for their quality, inexpensive and very fashionable products. Officially, H&M was established
in Vsters, Sweden, in 1947 by Erling Persson,
though at the time the store only sold womens
clothing and was called Hennes, Swedish for
hers. In 1968, Persson acquired the premises
and inventory of a Stockholm hunting equipment store named Mauritz Widforss. Included
in the inventory was a supply of mens apparel,
prompting Persson to expand into menswear.
Accordingly, he renamed the store Hennes &
Mauritz, later abbreviated to H&M.

J. Crew sells mens, womens and childrens apparel and accessories through
North American retail locations as well
as catalogs and its website. The company
produces products with a traditional preppy
aesthetic similar to that of Polo Ralph
Lauren (RL). J. Crew had total revenues of
$1.4B in 2008[1], with net income of $54
million. The company is in direct competition with Jones Apparel Group (JNY) and
Liz Claiborne (LIZ), both of which own
and produce other brands in addition to
their namesake lines

H&M has more than 2000 stores in 35 different


countries and has more than 73,000 employees.
Stefan Persson, Erlings son, became CEO in
1990 and Chairman of the Board in 1998. The
Church of Sweden is a major shareholder in the
H&M chain. In September 2008 H&M opened
its first store in Japan, it was in Ginza followed
by another opening in Harajuku in November
2008, the third one in the Shibuya shopping
district in September, 2009. H&M has signed
an agreement to open its first store in Myungdong in Seoul, South Korea to open during the
spring of 2010. The first Russian presence was
launched in Metropolis center in Moscow on
march 13th. The second one in march 2009 in
MEGA mall followed by the October opening
in Belaya Dacha MEGA mall. Europes biggest shopping center Golden Babylon opened
its H&M location in October 2009.

Page no. - 55

www.arvindmills.com

J. Jill

Talbots

J. Jill is a multi-channel specialty retailer of


womens apparel and accessories.
A wholly-owned subsidiary of The Talbots,
Inc., J. Jill is based in Quincy, Massachusetts.
Its Distribution Center and Call Center are
located in Tilton, New Hampshire, and its
international liaison office is located in New
Delhi, India.
At the end of fiscal 2007, J. Jill operated 271
stores in 39 states, including nine outlet stores.
Additionally, J. Jill distributed 25 separate
catalogs with an annual circulation of approximately 78 million.
J. Jill serves the 35+ woman. This customer
or guest as J. Jill sees her is well educated,
active, concerned about her community and
ageless in her approach to life and style.
She approaches fashion with an eye for natural beauty and adaptable function that reflects
her confidence and diverse needs. She prefers
clothes that are comfortable yet stylish, versatile and open to self expression.

Talbots is a leading specialty retailer and


direct marketer of womens classic clothing, shoes and accessories. Established in
1947, the company is known for legacy
items like the perfect blazer, trustworthy
trench, versatile white shirt, ballet flats
and pearls, as well as its fine workmanship, gracious service and welcoming
red doors. With a nod to tradition infused
with modern flair, Talbots offers an array
of timeless wardrobe options to flatter women of all shapes and sizes. The
Company currently operates stores in
580 locations in 46 states, the District of
Columbia, and Canada

Page no. - 57

www.arvindmills.com

Tommy Bahama

Zara

Tommy Bahama is a Seattle-based manufacturer and licenser of high-end tropicalthemed wear and other clothing and
household goods. The company is owned
by Georgia-based Oxford Industries. The
company sells apparel through its own
chain of retail outlets in Canada and the
United States, and through other retailers. The company operates restaurants
attached to some stores that serve tropical
themed food as well. It recently opened a
new bar at Yankee Stadium

Zara clothing is a brand under the Inditex


Group, which is owned by Spanish businessman Amancio Ortega. Started in 1975,
theyve been able to spread around the
world quickly because of their special approach to clothing manufacturing. Unlike a
lot of other online fashion companies, this
brand is able to get new products to consumers in about five weeks. If theyre just
changing an existing style, it can take as
little as two weeks. This quick turnaround is
the big reason theyve been able to grow so
fast since they began.

Page no. - 59

www.arvindmills.com

sport
collections

sports
casuals
formals

www.arvindmills.com

Memories clean , pure ,delicate and hazy, sporty , simplicity , reserved


Memories respond to invitations, Electing in their interests to attend.
Moments of remembrance moor sensations, On shadows shifting
gently in the wind.Remember to remember, then, those passed, In
whom we vested hope in days of strife,Again among the trenches,
dropping fast , Lost now to love as once they were to life.

Key concept clear ,puristic, simplified lines and structure, colorless and faded images and walls, porcelain,
plaster, genuine, old photographs, unforgettable moments, time spent together.
Colors chalky pastels, faded tan and black, ochre.
Client zara women swear
Target customer niche client
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 50s
Weft count 80s comp.
Construction on loom ( 156/88) , off loom (180/90)
Weave plain .
No. of harnesses 4
Constraints classic sporty stripes , 80% of base has to
be colored, weft white
Page no. - 63

www.arvindmills.com

Old school classic but sporty, uniform, emotive, discipline








Graduation is a time, When our thoughts turn naturally


To vandalism, sex, and crime,
Now that we at last are free. ,Our teachers think were well prepared
To make decisions on our own;
So just like birds out of a cage, Or slaves set free from toil and pain,
We aim to try to act our age
And be for now a bit sane.
Key concept uniform , school going look, classic which
conveys certain commitment and discipline, old universities,
libraries , school going bags and ties , tie belt ,young and
sporty.
Colors blue , grey , black, white as the ground, use of some
accent colors as yellows, turquoise, tan
Client A MAHADEVIA
Target customer upper middle class and niche client
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 2/121
Weft count 2/121
Construction on loom ( 80/88) , off loom (180/90), reed
80/4 , reed space 67
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain places.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints classic sporty stripes , 80% of base has to be
white, use of navy and cobalt blue must. weft color has to be
white only.

Page no. - 65

www.arvindmills.com

Nautica regimental, sea life, fresh and clean


Win or lose, whats at stake is grace., One pits oneself against ones
wildest dreams,
Relying, more than anything, on will., Life is far more lustful than it
seems,
Demanding more of one than an embrace, Come witness, then, the love
that life redeems
Upon a field of lovers, dreamers all, Playing with more passion in our
place.
Key concept think nautical, think light houses in
highly visible red, black or blue, beach huts smartly
painted in sea blue and sandy creams, sailors ,ships,
naval force.
Colors from soft aqua to deep ultra marine, navy
blue, cobalt blue, all the nautical shades , off-white
,white as the base, red as the ascent tone. grays and
black.
Client united colors of Benetton
Target customer niche client
Market u.s.a
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 50s
Weft count 50s
Construction on loom ( 80/88) , off loom
(180/90), reed 80/4 , reed space 67
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain
places as dobbies.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints regimental sporty stripes , 50% of
base has to be white, use of navy and red as must
for ascent color.
Page no. - 67

www.arvindmills.com

Riviera playful, exotic, fun, sporty ,retro


Holidays are little more than meals, Of course the details differ, but not much.Long
histories have merged into a sea, In which the flavors blend quite favorably,Destined for
nouvelle cuisine. Yet such, A mixture has its own distinct appeals.Years together are not
spent in vain., Some losses, though severe, are worth the gain

Key concept inspired by the 1950s and the first


holidays abroad, capturing the tourist spirit of the early
resorts such as Riviera. Hot on the heels of the summer ,beach side look, merry and fun making.
Colors fruity and playful colors, mango yellows,
blue red and black are of utmost importance.
Client zara womens wear
Target customer niche client
Market Europe
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 50s
Weft count 80s comp.
Construction on loom ( 156/88) , off loom (180/90)
Weave plain
No. of harnesses 4
Constraints classic sporty stripes , 60% of base has
to be colored, white weft.
Page no. - 69

www.arvindmills.com

Monaco heraldic , heritage, past glory, rank and regimental , medieval


The story takes its inspiration from the past era, the heritage buildings ,the
footprints of the past which reflects a lot of folkloric and heraldic deeds. the
mood in the old forts and buildings of the Monaco chants the stories of the
bygone era.

Key concept art and architecture of Monaco, ancient ,heritage buildings, heraldic,
bravery, regimental and disciplined. clean , status symbol, merit and rank,
Colors all dark and mid tones of tan and rust, muted and saturated earthy tones and
off white. grays and black with red as the ascent.
Client united color of Benetton
Target customer very niche client.
Market U.S.A.
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 50s
Weft count 50s
Construction on loom ( 120/78) , of loom (138/80), reed 120/3 , reed space 64.5
for dobbies - on loom ( 80/78) , of loom (138/80), reed 80/3/4 , reed space 64.5
Weave plain and dobbies
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints sporty stripes, muted and subdued summer tones,maximum of 4 colors
in weft.
Page no. - 71

www.arvindmills.com

casuals

www.arvindmills.com

Active relaxatation lively, eye catching, youthful and dynamic, cheerful mood,
celebration mood, summer garden party or holiday trip

Key concept memories of childhood vacations spent


by the seaside, conjure up myriad multicolored stripes
in bright primaries, holiday mood, soft pastels, deck
chairs, helter shelter, candy rocks, wind breakers,
swim shorts.
Colors multi colored, mango blue, parrot greens,
red, bright primaries, greys and even lilacs and
browns.
Client A MAHADEVIA
Target customer middle class
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 40s
Weft count 40s
Construction on loom ( 120/74) , of loom (132/76),
reed 80/3 , red space 64.5
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain places.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints uneven pattern to get the casual appearance, bright and fruity ascent ,more or white surface.

Page no. - 75

www.arvindmills.com

Heat and dust rustic ,casual, Sicilians hot ,travelers vogue


Inspiration I remember the peculiar fine dust, like talcum, that
arrived on a cool wind and dyed the air a dirty gray. The Saharan summer wind, had been blowing from the northeast since
march, hard enough to fill the sky with dust but not strongly
enough to carry sand.still in my fatigue I carried on carried on and
on.

Key concept hot and windy , sand and desert, hot breeze , desert
landscape , travelers, tan and grey, scratching and etching, sweat
and dust ,and Sicilian heat, road side landscape, umbrellas, camel
safari,
Colors all dark and mid tones of red, orange as the ascent color,
muted and saturated tones of yellow and off white.
Client A MAHADEVIA
Target customer middle class
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 40s
Weft count 40s
Construction on loom ( 120/74) , of loom (132/76), reed 80/3 ,
red space 64.5
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain places.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints uneven pattern to get the casual appearance, muted
and saturated look.

Page no. - 77

www.arvindmills.com

Highland fling - Scottish, tweed and herringbones, kilts, patterned and tex-

tured.

Key concept British heritage, plaid and Scottish checks,


tweed and herringbones, kilts, patterned and textured.
Colors all dark and mid tones of blues, dirty orange as the
ascent color, muted and saturated tones of blue and off white.
indigo blue as the major base area.
Client A.E.G. ( turkey)
Target customer niche client
Market turkey
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 30s
Weft count 30s
Construction on loom ( 96/68) , off loom (106/72), reed 96/2
, reed space 68
Weave plain , 2/2 twill overall.
No. of harnesses 4
Constraints bright checks and the base has to be darker. use
of indigo on the place of navy blue color.

Page no. - 79

www.arvindmills.com

formals

www.arvindmills.com

manor born classic style, superior ,elegant, business and finance, smart ,responsible
Inspiration - To the manner born is an idiom meaning from birth accustomed to the
behavior expected and therefore able to meet the standards easily, and To the manor
born is an idiom meaning accustomed as from birth to the ways and demands of being
landed gentry. Manner appears to have the stronger literary section.

Key concept official stripes, pin or regency stripes, sober reliable stripes, smart ,respectable, elegant, shows degree of responsibility, world of business and finance.
Colors all dark and mid tones of blue ,ink blue white and grays
Client Louis Philippe
Target customer rich class and niche client
Market Indian domestic brand
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 2/121
Weft count 2/121
Construction on loom ( 80/88) , off loom (180/90), reed 80/4 ,
reed space 67
Weave plain , satin and twill used on certain places.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 10
Constraints classic formal stripes , 60% of base has to be blue,
very sober and even symmetrical stripes.

Page no. - 83

www.arvindmills.com

Sensual - sensuous, sensual, luxurious, voluptuous , club and parties


Inspiration
The story Sensual applies to the physical senses or appetites, particularly
those associated with sexual pleasure: Luxurious suggests a surrender to
physical comfort leading to a delightful feeling of well-being: stayed in
a luxurious, flower-filled suite with a crystal chandelier and thick oriental rugs. Voluptuous approach of oneself to pleasures, especially sensual
pleasures:

Key concept club, wine ,night music, dazzling


light, enigmatic, mysterious, romantic, seductive,
sensuous, flashy and showy, extravagant.
Colors all dark and mid tones of purple and violets and magenta , black, chocolate browns and navy
blue. off-white and lighter tones of purple as ascent.
Client Louis Philippe
Target customer rich class and niche client
Market Indian domestic
Technical specification
Fiber content 100% cotton
Warp count 2/121
Weft count 2/121
Construction on loom ( 80/88) , off loom (180/90),
reed 80/4 , reed space 67
Weave plain , satin and twill , dobbies.
No. of harnesses minimum of 4 and maximum 14
Constraints club wear

Page no. - 85

www.arvindmills.com

TYPES OF STRIPES AND CHECKS


Types of Stpires:-

Bretton stripes:- This is horizontal


bicolor stripe.

Pencil stripes:- A stripe pattern produced by


lines that are as thick as once drawn by pencil.
Narrower than a Bengal stripe but wider than a
pin stripe.

Pin stripes:- A pattern of very thin stripes running in parallel found in cloths.

Crime and Punishment stripes:- Stripes which


are woven for the clothes used for the crime and
punishment purpose.

National Ideentity stripes:- It is found on


national flags of countries, which has certain
meaning to it.

Hairline stripes:- About one or two yarns


thickness stripe. This is the thinnest stripes

Fun stripes:- These stripes are combination of


stripes, with playful arrangement of different
widths
Classic stripes:- Stripe which are made with a wide
combinations of thinner to thicker lines arranged
together.

Page no. - 87

www.arvindmills.com

Awning stripes:- A pattern of relatively wide,


even, usually vertical stripes of solid color on a
lighter ground. These are broader than Bengal
stripes

Regimental stripes:- A stripe pattern


with colors originating from British
regiments. Most often used in neckwear.

Ticking stripes:- A strong, tightly woven fabric of


catton or linen used to make pillow and mattress coverings, which generally have consequent lines along
with same bold lines in between.

Barcode stripes:- A stripe pattern consisting


of lines of varying width as in a barcode

Legacy stripes:- Stripes are of equal width and all


different colors. Size comes in between Awning and
Bengal stripes.

Bengal stripes:- Stripes of apparently the same


width and alternating light and dark colors. Bengal
stripes are usually wider Awning stripes.than candy
stripes, but narrower than Awning stripes.

Neapolitan stripes:- The multicolored and


multi-width stripes

Roman stripes:- Bright multicolored


contrasting vertical stripes.

Candy stripes:- Vertical and even stripes that


are wider than Pencil stripes but thinner than
Bengal stripes. Candy stripes are usually about
1/8 in width and are characterized by solid.
Bold stripes on white.

Page no. - 89

www.arvindmills.com

Types of Checks:Balanced stripes:- A symmetrical


layout, in which coloured bands are
arranged around a center. It repeats
the same pattern on both the right
and left of the dominant stripe.

Buffalo Checks:- A bold check


pattern with blocks of 2 to 3 contrasting colors often red and black
in a twill weave.

Bayadere stripes:- Brightly coloured stripes of various width


laid out horizontly. The color effects usually range from lively to
startling to bizarre. The name is derived from the bayadere dancing girls of India, dedicated to a dancing life from birth.

Chevron stripes:- A traditional, woven or printed


design of zigzags in a stripe layout, also herringbone

Gingham Checks:- Fabrics woven in a block


or check effect. An allover pattern of solid color
squares made by overlapping stripes of same width

Windowpane Checks:- A widely spaced


check pattern resembling panes in a window.
Commonly used on suits, shirtings and accessories.

Tattersall Checks:- A relatively small scale check pattern


( smaller than windowpane ) produced by regularly spaced,
evenly coloured thin lines on a usually light ground.

Unbalanced stripes:- Unbalanced stripes do not


have a center and are asymmetrical stripes.

Ombre stripes:- A woven fabric in which


the color is graduated from light to dark and
often into stripes of varying shades

Graph Checks:- Thin stripes running both


warp and weft directions

Pin Checks:- A check pattern produced by intersecting pin sized stripes that are one or two yarns
thick

Page no. - 91

www.arvindmills.com

TYPES OF DISTRICT CHECKS


Mini Checks:- Sizes are somewhere between
the pin check and the gingham check. It usually
consist of one color with white and often resembles the gingham check except that its a lot
smaller. This pattern is more casual than stripes,
dressier than larger checks.

Hounds tooth:- It is a duotone textile


pattern, characterized by broken checks or
abstract four-pointed shapes, often in black
& white, although others colors are used.

Tartans:- A subset of plaid, associated with Scotland. A


tartan plaid is made of perfect squares, it looks the same
rotated 90 degree, 180 degree etc. Different tartans are not
associated with different Scottish clans, but with all kinds
of places, institution and events.
Madras Checks:- Refers to the lightweight yarn
dyed woven cotton fabric from Chennai ( formerly
madras ) , India. A design of brightly colored
stripes, plaids, uneven checks or other design element, usually on a plain coloured background

Princes of Wales:- It is a duotone textile pattern, characterized by broken checks or abstract


four-pointed shapes with alternating blocks of
2-on-2 and 4-on-4 colouring

Shepherds:- A pattern of small black and


white even checks mainly woven in twill weave

Burberry Checks:- It has defined pattern as 3 horizontal and 3+1 vertical line in check, it can have different
sizes of checks.

Ombre Checks:- It gives the effect of ombre


i.e. shaded type of effects are created

District Checks:- A check pattern that originates from


uniforms identifying specific Scottish estates. Famous
district check patterns inclide the Glen checks, the Shepherd, the Dupplin, the Benmore, the Hound;s Tooth,
Princes of Wales, the Dogs tooth and others.

Dogs Tooth:- A pattern of small broken or jagged


checks created by four pointed stars same as hounds
tooth.

Glen:- A popular Scottish district


check made of elements of hounds
tooth often with a fine line overplaid
in a contrasting color. It is woven in a
twill pattern of broken checks

Page no. - 93

www.arvindmills.com

www.arvindmills.com

PRASHANT GUPTA
TEXTILE DESIGN
SEMESTER - 7

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY


NEW DELHI

You might also like