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Jacques Pepin New Complete Techniques Sampler
Jacques Pepin New Complete Techniques Sampler
JACQUES PPIN
In La Technique, Ppin
asks the reader to not treat
this as a book, treat it as an
apprenticeship. I took that to
heart and, indirectly, Jacques
Ppin became my mentor
though these techniques.
Tom Colicchio
JACQUES
FOR PUBLICITY,
PLEASE CONTACT
Sally Feller
212-647-9336 x102
sally@bdlev.com
www.blackdogandleventhal.com
Published by Black Dog and
Leventhal Publishers, Inc.
Distributed by Workman
Publishing Group
Printed in China
NEW COMPLETE
TECHNIQUES
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VEGETABLES
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VEGETABLES
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Separating Eggs
(Separation des Oeufs)
When you are separating eggs, you often end up with an excess of yolk or white. The
egg whites, almost pure albumin, freeze well. Defrosted egg whites whip as well as
fresh egg whites, and they do not pick up odors. The yolk, however, high in fat, does not
freeze well. Unless the temperature goes as low as -20 degrees (-29C), bacteria will
grow in the egg yolk. In addition, yolks easily become freezer burnt. However, they can
be kept for a couple of days in the refrigerator covered with a layer of water to prevent
a skin from forming on top. Pour the water off before using. For all our egg recipes, we
recommend large organic eggs fresh from a farm.
EGGS
2. Pour the yolk into the empty half shell, letting more
white drop into the bowl as you are transferring the yolk
from one shell to the other.
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Poaching Eggs
When making poached eggs, the fresher the eggs the better. The older the eggs, the more
the whites will tend to spread in the water. A dash of vinegar (distilled white vinegar to
avoid discoloration of the eggs) is added to the water to help firm the egg white. Salt is
omitted because it has the reverse effect and tends to thin down the white. Poached eggs
lend themselves to an infinite number of combinations, from the very simple poached
egg on toast, to the sophisticated eggs Benedict, served with ham, hollandaise sauce, and
truffles. Eggs can be poached several hours, even a day, ahead (as most restaurants do),
eliminating any last-minute panic when you want to serve several people at once.
EGGS
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(OeufsPochs)
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Oysters
(Huitres)
Aficionados prefer oysters raw on the half shell with a dash of lemon, or a mignonnette sauce
made by mixing together cup (118 milliliters) good red wine vinegar, cup (36 grams)
chopped shallots, teaspoon (2.5 grams) coarsely ground black pepper and a dash of salt.
(Crushed peppercorn is called mignonnette; hence, the name of the sauce.) These fine
mollusks should be used, as all shellfish, only if they are alive and fresh. Despite the fact that
restaurants sometimes wash oysters to get rid of any lurking bits of shell that might present
problems to their patrons, once oysters are opened, they should never be washed. Oysters are
usually larger and fatter in the United States than they are in France. The green flat oysters
of France, the Belons and Marennes, are now grown in Maine. Oysters are usually poached
in their own broth. Be sure not to overcook these delicate shellfish or they will toughen. As
soon as the edges of the oyster whiten and curl up, they are cooked enough.
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1. Slide your knife between the bone and the meat and,
standing the roast on the end of the chine bone (backbone),
continue cutting alongside the chine bone to separate it
from the meat.
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Croissants
(Croissants)
Croissants are the essence of the French breakfast. They are never eaten at other meals.
The large twisted croissants bought in cafs in the morning are often made with a mixture
of shortening and butter. The small straight croissants are usually made with only butter.
For pain au chocolat, or chocolate rolls, strips of chocolate are rolled up in rectangular
pieces (about 3 x 5 inches/7.6 x 13 centimeters) of croissant dough and baked at the same
temperature and for the same amount of time as the straight and crescent-shaped rolls.
Croissant dough requires skill to make. It has some of the qualities of puff paste as well as
of brioche. It acquires flakiness through the rolling and folding technique of puff paste, but
it is also a yeast dough, which needs proofing before cooking. We made our croissants with
all purpose flour (which is high-gluten, hard-wheat, elastic flour), because we found that
using pastry flour (a soft wheat flour with less gluten) did not make much difference. Small
croissants are about 1 to 1 ounces (35 to 42 grams) each; large croissants are about 3
ounces (85 grams) each.
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JACQUES PPIN
In La Technique, Ppin
asks the reader to not treat
this as a book, treat it as an
apprenticeship. I took that to
heart and, indirectly, Jacques
Ppin became my mentor
though these techniques.
Tom Colicchio
JACQUES
FOR PUBLICITY,
PLEASE CONTACT
Sally Feller
212-647-9336 x102
sally@bdlev.com
www.blackdogandleventhal.com
Published by Black Dog and
Leventhal Publishers, Inc.
Distributed by Workman
Publishing Group
Printed in China
NEW COMPLETE
TECHNIQUES
TJ202-4-2012 IMUS 7/BDA0125-The Art of cooking W:8X H:9.25 175L 130g Stora Enso M/A Magenta
Blad Cov
TJ202-4-2012 Blad Cover 175L CTP.indd 2-3
17/05/2012 11:18 AM