COSMETOLOGY

Cosmetology (Beauty Culture) offers the opportunity for a lifetime career in one of our largest and most respected industries. After
completing a comparatively short training period, you will be prepared to embark upon a career that can offer you a good income for your entire
working life.
Opportunities for men and women are for greater in the field of cosmetology than in any other field comparable in preparation time and
expense. Cosmetology offers a lucrative, exciting, and growth filled future for the alert and ambitious individual. Furthermore, the practice of
cosmetology offers the rare opportunity for a career filled with personal pleasure and satisfaction. It appeals to the artistic and aesthetic needs of
the cosmetologist. It encourages the free exercise of her personal talent and ability. And most important, it combines job satisfaction with
financial stability.
To a young woman, cosmetology presets a vocation that can be tailored to fit into the pattern of her private life. When she is ready to
raise a family, she can leave, and then return at a later date to continue her career. She can maintain a normal married family life and work at her
own convenience.
The future for the cosmetology industry appears to be most promising. New technique, new products, and new opportunities appear
everyday. The number of patrons who visit beauty salons and the amount of money they spend for services are constantly increasing.
With reference to your own future, these seem to be no limit to the progress you can make or to the amount of money you can earn.
There is no other industry with such a constant demand for qualified, well trained school graduates. Nor is there any other industry that offers
comparable opportunities for an individual to start his or her own business.
Cosmetology is as exciting as it is profitable. It represents to many men and women a profession that will bring much happiness and
financial independence.
Note: TO BE SUCCESSFUL you must learn to do the little things that will make patrons like you, in addition to being well groomed and
proficient in your work.
Terms Used:
The following terms all refer to the professional performing services in a beauty salon:
1. Cosmetologist
6. Technicians
2. Practitioner
7. Hairdresser
3. Artisan
8. Operator
4. Hairstylist
9. Beautician
5. Stylist
The preferred term is Cosmetologist"
The practice of enhancing the appearance of beauty salon patron is referred to as Cosmetology, Beauty Culture, Hairdressing and
Hairstyling.
The premise where this enhancement takes place is called a Beauty Parlor, Beauty Salon, and Beauty Shop.
Unit I.

Hygiene, God Grooming, and Personality Development

Good Health is required for the successful practice of Cosmetology. Without it, one cannot work efficiently nor enjoy the pleasures of
life. With it, constructive work and happiness are made possible.
In keeping with the profession, Cosmetologist should be living examples of good health, so that they will increase their value to
themselves, to their employees, and to the community.
Hygiene is a science that deals with healthful living. It includes both personal and public hygiene.
Personal Hygiene concerns the intelligent care taken by the individual to preserve health by following the rules of healthful living such
as:
1. Cleanliness
2. Oral Hygiene
3. Good Posture
4. Sufficient Exercise

5. Relaxation
6. Adequate Sleep
7. Balanced Diet

8. Wholesome Thoughts

Public Hygiene, or sanitation, refers to the steps taken by the government to promote public health. The government takes the
responsibility of protecting the health, safety, and welfare of its citizens, by seeing that they are provided with:
1. Pure air
3. Pure water
5. Control of disease
2. Pure food
4. Adequate sewerage
6. Adequate medical facilities
Beauty problems also may become health problem. A clear complexion, fine textured skin, sparkling eyes and luxuriant hair may
project a healthy condition. A dull, sallow complexion maybe indicative of:
1. Sluggish circulation
3. Irregular elimination
5. Poor health
2. lack of fresh air
4. Improper diet
Hygiene Rules
To improve your health and appearance, you must follow hygienic rules of living:
1. Eating well balanced meal at regular intervals and drinking sufficient amount of water will keep the digestive system
functioning properly and produce better elimination. However, one of the basic causes of poor health is a faulty diet.
Avoid such poor eating habits as;
Not eating enough of the right kinds of food, this may lead to loss of weight, lower resistance, or nutritional disease.
Overeating, which taxes the digestive system and organs of elimination.
2. Exercise and recreation, in the form of running, walking, dancing, sports and gym activities develop endurance and
keep the body fit. Benefits derive from regular exercise are;

An improvement in the bodys absorption of food.

An improvement in blood circulation.
A larger supply of life giving oxygen to the body, due to the increased action of the heart and lungs.
3. Moderate amount of sunshine add vigor and help to supply the body with essential Vitamin D.
4. Fatigue, caused by work, exercise, mental effort, or worry, should always be followed by a period of rest or relaxation.
Overexertion and lack of rest tend to drain the body of its vitality. Therefore, an adequate amount of sleep, not less than
seven hours is necessary. This allows the body to recover from the fatigue of the days activities and replenish itself with
renewed energy.
Healthy Thoughts:
The mind and body operate as a unit. A healthy body and mind contribute to a good life. A healthy body is one in which all
organs perform their functions normally. Healthy thoughts can be cultivated by self control.
Thoughts and emotions influence bodily activities. A thought may cause face to turn red and increase the heart action. It may
either stimulate or depress the function of the body. Strong emotions, such as worry and fear, have a harmful effect on the heart,
arteries and glands. Depression weakens the function of the organs, thereby lowering the resistance of the body disease.
A well groomed Female Cosmetologist is one of the best advertisements of effectively run salon.
To keep appearance at its best, you must give daily attention to all-important details that make for a clean, neat and
charming personality:
1. Daily Bath and Deodorant
Keep the body cleansed and odor free by taking a daily shower or bath and by using an underarm deodorant.
2. Oral Hygiene
Clean and brush the teeth regularly. Use mouth wash to sweeten the breath.
3. Hairstyle
Keep the hair clean and lustrous. Wear an attractive and functional hairstyle at all times.
4. Clothes
Wear a uniform that is spotlessly clean, neat, and properly fitted. Wear fresh underclothes.
5. Facial Makeup
Use the correct cosmetics to match your skin tone. Keep your make up fresh, eyebrows and lips well shaped.
6. Hands and Nails
Keep your hands clean and smooth, and always have your nails well manicured.
7. Jewelry
Avoid gaudy jewelry. A wristwatch is permissible.
8. Shoes and Hosiery
Wear low heeled shoes that are well fitted and sensibly styled. Keep shoes shined and in good condition. Wear
clean hose. Watch out for hosiery runs and wrinkles.
Many beauty salon owners consider appearance, visual poise and personality to be as important as technical
knowledge and manual skills.
A well groomed Male Cosmetologist
Proper grooming is also important to male cosmetologist. Give careful attention to cleanliness of uniform, skin, hair, hands
and teeth. Keep beard and mustache neatly trimmed. Keep breath sweet with mouthwash. Keep your body free of odor by taking a
shower or bath, daily, and by using underarm deodorant.
Your personality is the key to a successful career in Cosmetology. Personality is defined as the outward reflection of your
inner feelings, habits, attitudes and values. It is the total effect you have on other people.
Unit II.

Manicuring and Pedicuring

The word manicure (mani kur) is derived from the Latin manus (hand) and cura (care), which means the care of the
hands and nails. The purpose of a manicure is to improve the appearance of the hands and nails.
The ancient regarded long, polished, and colored fingernails as a mask of distinction between aristocrats and common
laborers. Manicure, once considered a luxury for the few, is now a service used by the general public. In fact, many well groomed
women and men use the services of a professional manicurist.
Manicure is the artful care of the hands ands nails. It helps to improve the appearance and the health of the nails. Having a
manicured hands need the services of a manicurist who is capable of giving the best service. A manicurist, to be successful in this field
of work needs to posses the qualification that will help her in winning more clientele
One of the requirements a manicurist must posses s a thorough knowledge about the materials, implements and equipments used in
manicuring. She must also know the proper care and use of the different materials and implements.
Definition of terms:
1. Equipments- are articles used in manicuring that are more or less durable or
permanent. Usually, they are left in the manicuring shop because
they are difficult to transport from one place to another.
Ex.
1.1 Body Lounge - is usually vinyl-covered chair preferably in a reclining
position for clients. It provides proper body support.
1.2 Manicuring Stool - is a backless chair where the operator sits.
1.3 Manicuring Table - is a table specially designed for manicuring. Usually it has a drawer for storing materials. It is often
constructed with ball casters for easy mobility, and conveniently fits across standard 16 by 24 inches.
1.4 Manicuring Lamp - is a lamp which is attached to the manicuring table. It provides light and also heat for softening the skin
cosmetics.
1.5 Hot-Oil Heater - is an electrical device which heats lubricating lotion for conditioning treatment.
1.6 Manicuring Tray - is a container that holds the necessary cosmetics and other supplies.
1.7 Wet Sanitizer - is a container to contain or hold sterile cotton and 70% alcohol.

1.8 Finger Bowl - (plastic or glass) is a container used for holding warm soapy water for finger bath.
2. Materials- refer to cosmetics and other supplies that are consumable and therefore, are replaced from time to time.
In cosmetology, materials include everything which are being replenished after using because they may either remain or stick
on the nails and skin or are absorbed by the air or are simply thrown away.
Ex.
2.1 Cosmetics- nail and hand cosmetics vary in their composition and usage according to the purposes they serve.
2.1.1 Nail polish remover- contains organic solvents and is used to dissolve old polish on nails. To offset the
drying action of the solvent, oil may be present in the nail polish remover.
2.1.2 Cuticle Oil- is a mixture of fats and waxes containing lanolin or petroleum base. It is used in hot oil
treatments, and to soften and lubricate the skin around the nails.
2.1.3 Cuticle Creams- are mixture of fats and waxes (lanolin, cocoa butter, beeswax, etc) used to prevent or
correct brittle nails and dry cuticle.
2.1.4 Cuticle remover or solvents- may contain 2-5% sodium or potassium hydroxide plus glycerin. After the
cuticle is softened with this liquid, it can be removed easily.
2.1.5 Liquid nail polish or lacquer- is used to color or gloss the nail. It is a solution of nitro- cellulose in volatile
solvent, such as amyl acetate, together with plasticizer (castor oil), which prevents too rapid drying. Also
present are resin and color.
2.1.6 Nail polish thinner - containing acetone or other solvent, is used to thin out
nail polish when it has thickened.
2.1.7 A base coat is a liquid product applied before the liquid nail polish. With this application, the nail polish
adheres readily to the nail surface. It also forms hard gloss, which prevents the color in the nail polish from
staining the nail tissue.
2.1.8 A top coat, or sealer, is a liquid applied over the nail polish. This product protects the polish and minimize its
chipping or cracking.
2.1.9 Nail strengtheners are designed to prevent the nails from splitting or peeling. They are applied to the tips of
the nails only. They are never applied over polish. The nails must usually contains formaldehyde. Cuticle
shields are used during the application of nail strengtheners to prevent the product from touching the skin
or cuticle.
2.1.10 Alum solution is a substance containing aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate. Used to contract the
skin tissue, it aids in controlling bleeding when skin tissue is broken or cut. In stick form, it may be called a
styptic pencil.
Other Supplies Needed
1. Soap (liquid or any form) for finger bath.
2. Warm water for finger bath
3. Sanitized towel for each patron (preferably white towel)
4. Cleaning tissue for use whenever necessary.
5. Antiseptic for use in finger bath, and to avoid infection when minor injuries to tissues surrounding the nail occur.
6. Disinfectant for use when sanitizing implements, and for disinfecting the manicuring table.
7. 70% alcohol is used in a jar sanitizer where implements are kept during manicure. It is also used to sanitize a patrons
fingers before manicure.
8. Emery board for shaping and smoothing the free edge of nail.

The Correct Procedure in Manicuring

1. Preparation
Prepare manicuring table as previously outlined
Seat clients
Wash your hands
Examine clients hands
Sanitize clients hands
2. Procedure
Remove old polish (start with the little finger of left hand).
Shape the nails (starting with the little finger of the left hand working towards the thumb).
Soften cuticle after filing / shaping the nail of the left hand, file the nails of the right hand. Then immerse the left hand into the
finger bowl (soap bath) to permit the softening of the cuticle. Remove the left hand from the finger bowl.
Dry fingertips using towel.
Apply cuticle remover (solvent). Use orange wood stick.
Loosen cuticle, use spoon edge of cuticle pusher.
Note: when using the cuticle and orange wood stick, avoid too much pressure so that live tissue at the root of the nail
will not be injured.
Clean under the free edge. Use a cotton tipped orange wood stick, dipped in soapy water. To clean under free edge,
working from the center toward each side; employing gentle pressure.
Trim cuticle. Using nippers to remove dead cuticle.
Bleach under free edge (optional).
Apply cuticle oil or cream, and massage with a rotary movement.
Remove right hand from the finger bowl and work in step 4 10.
Clean nails. Brush using a downward movement.
Dry hands and nails thoroughly.

3.

Completion
Re examine nails and cuticle for defects. Remove remaining pieces of cuticle.
If required, repair split or broken nails.
Apply base coat, allow to dry.
Apply liquid polish.
Remove excess polish.
Apply top or seal coat.
Note: Top coat application is usually eliminated when liquid polish is sprayed with enamel dryer.
Apply hand lotion.
4. Final Cleanup
Sanitize used manicuring implements and place it in their proper places. Clean and wipe tables. Wash and dry your
hands.
Shape of Nails
1.
Oval Nail is the ideal nail shape and can be styled by either covering the entire nail with polish, leaving the free
edge white or leaving the half moon white at the case of the nail.
2.
Slender tapering (pointed) nail is well suited for the thin delicate hand. The nail should be tapered somewhat
longer that usual to enhance the slender appearance of the hand.
3.
Square or rectangular nail should extend only slightly past the tip of the finger with the nail tip rounded off. The
entire nail maybe polished with a slight half moon left at the base, and a white margin left at the sides of the nail.
4.
Clubbed (round nail) should be slightly tapered and extend just a bit past the tip of the finger. The entire nail
should be polished with a thin margin left at the side.
Types of Manicure
1. Electric manicure is given with the aid of a portable device operated by a small motor. It uses a variety of attachment
which may include an emery wheel, cuticle pusher, cuticle brush, and buffer.
2. Oil manicure is beneficial for ridged and brittle nails, and for dry cuticles. It also improves the hands by leaving the
skin soft and pliable.
3. Mens manicure men usually prefer a conservative manicure.
4. Booth manicure is one that is given in the booth and not at the manicuring table. It is usually given while a client is
receiving another service for example, while she is having a haircut or styled.
Safety Rules in Manicuring:
Observing safety rules in manicuring can be of great help in preventing accidents and injury to the client or manicurist. The
following safety rules will guide the manicurist in protecting the client:
1. Keep all containers covered and labeled.
2. Hold or move containers with dry hands.
3. Handle sharp pointed implements carefully, and avoid dropping them.
4. Dull over sharpened cutting edges of sharp implements with an emery board.
5. Bevel a sharp nail edge with an emery board.
6. Do not file too deeply into nail corners.
7. Do not use a sharp, pointed implement to cleanse under the nail.
8. Avoid excessive friction in nail buffing (where permitted).
9. Apply an antiseptic immediately if the skin is accidentally cut.
10. Apply styptic powder or alum solution to stop the bleeding from a small cut. Never use a styptic pencil.
11. Avoid pushing the cuticle back too far.
12. Avoid too much pressure at the base of the nail.
13. Do not work on a nail when the surrounding skin is inflamed or contains pus.
Unit III. Facial Care and Facial Make up
Receiving a professional facial is one of the most enjoyable and relaxing services available to the beauty salon patron. Those
individuals who have participated in this very restful or stimulating experience do not hesitate to return to repeat facials. When received
as a regular periodic service, facials result is very noticeable improvement in the patrons skin tone, texture of skin and appearance.
Facial care or treatments can be developed into a profitable service. The patrons hairstyle may be beautiful, but if the face it frames is
covered with unattractive skin, the effect of the hairstyle will be lost.
Note: The cosmetologist does not treat skin disease however, she must be able to recognize the various skin ailments that
she cannot attempt to treat, she must also know when to advice the patron to see her doctor for treatment.
Facial treatments has two categories:
1. Preservative maintaining the health of the facial skin by using correct cleansing methods increasing circulation, relaxing the
nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism through massage.
2. Corrective correcting some facial skin conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, blackheads, aging lines, and minor conditions of
acne.
Facial treatments and care are beneficial for:
1. Cleansing the skin.
2. Increasing circulation.
3. Activating glandular activity.
4. Relaxing the nerves.
5. Maintaining muscle tone.

6. Strengthening weak muscle tissue.

7. Correcting certain skin diseases.
8. Helping prevent the formation of wrinkles and aging lines.
9. Softening and improving skin texture and complexion.
10. Giving a youthful feeling.
Reminders and Hints in Facial Massage
1. Try to get the patron to relax.
2. Provide quiet atmosphere; speak softly.
3. Maintain a clean, orderly arrangement of supplies.
4. Follow systematic procedure.
5. If your hands are cold, warm them before touching the patron.
6. Make sure your fingernails are not too long or pointed.
Facial Make up
Makeup is applied to the face for the purpose of improving its appearance. The main objective of a makeup application is to
emphasize good facial features and to minimize defects. There is no fixed pattern for applying facial makeup. In practicing this art, the
cosmetologist must carefully analyze each patrons face and consider her individual needs.
The professional who applies makeup must take into consideration the structure of the patrons face, the inter relationships of color,
and the basic principles of optical illusions. Makeup is used to create shadow and light, and to develop the illusion of facial beauty. The
appearance of beauty can be achieved by properly coordinating facial makeup, hairstyle and clothing colors.
Cosmetics used in Facial Makeup
1. Foundation for makeup
Probably no single item of makeup is as important as the foundation. Its proper application creates a pleasing
facial contour, evens out skin color, provides a base for color harmony, conceals minor imperfections, and protects the skin
from soil, wind and weather.
Skin tones determine the color of the foundation base. Skin tones are generally classified as follows: white, ivory,
cream, pink, florid, sallow, olive, tan, brown, and ebony.
Choice of foundation color. In choosing the foundation color for light skin, a shade darker than the natural skin
tone is usually desirable to impart color. When the skin is dark, match the foundation to the natural skin tone. Selecting the
correct foundation color is of extreme importance to the success of the entire makeup application.
For either a sallow or pale skin tone, a rosy foundation and powder generally will give the desired glow.
For a florid skin tone, a beige foundation and powder generally will give the desired glow.
For all other skin tones (fair, medium or dark), select the depth of foundation and powder to blend with the
lightness or darkness of the skin tone.
Note: Too light foundation makes the face look pale and artificial. A little foundation goes a long way. Using too
much of it is undesirable as it gives the skin a pasty appearance.
Selecting the right foundation. Liquid and cream foundation are the most widely used, and they give a slight
sheen to the skin. Water based or cake foundations give a matte (dull) finish.
a. Cream foundation gives the most natural look and a longer lasting makeup. It is formulated for both
dry and oily skin types.
b. Liquid (lotion) foundation is a color suspended in an emulsion of delicate light oil. For quick and
effective blending, apply it on one skin area at a time using long, smooth strokes.
c. Cake foundation adds color, gives a smooth and velvety look, and helps conceal minor skin
discoloration. It is applied with a moistened pad. Cake foundation is effective for an oily skin. To
prevent drying, apply a moisturizer to dry skin before applying cake makeup.
Skin blemishes can be hidden with the aid of:
1. Stick foundation. Makeup in stick form is particularly useful in the covering or masking of
minor skin blemishes. The advantage of a stick is that it can easily be applied to a small blemish to give a
relatively thick film coverage.
2. Blemish masking creams are similar to the pigmented foundation creams.
2. Face Powders
Face powders improve the overall attractiveness of the skin by concealing skin blemishes, toning down excessive coloring,
gloss, or shine, enhancing the natural skin coloring, and adding delicate scent. Modern powders make the skin soft and velvety to
touch.
Generally, the selected shade of face powder maybe the same shade as the foundation, or a shade lighter. However a
powder that is darker than the foundation maybe used when deeper color is desired.
Translucent (colorless) powder blends with all foundations and will not turn color when applied.
3. Cheek Colors and Lip Colors
The purpose of cheek color is to give a soft glow of color to the face. It aids in creating better facial contours by minimizing
imperfect features.
Cheek color should coordinate with, or be the same color as, the lip color. However, cheek color that is a shade lighter than
the lip color generally is more desirable than a darker shade. The color on the cheeks should be less vivid in broad daylight than in
artificial light. Bright colors call attention to that area of the face and the makeup begins to look artificial.
There are four types of cheek color: liquid, cream, dry and brush on.
1. Liquid cheek color blends well and is suitable for all skin types. Apply it over the foundation before powdering the face.
2. Cream cheek color closely resembles pigmented foundation creams and cream makeup. Cream cheek color is
generally preferred for dry and normal skin.
3. Dry (compact) cheek color imparts a matte (dull) finish. If well formulated, it blends harmoniously with the facial
makeup.
4. Brush on powdered cheek color is easy to use and is applied with a special cosmetic brush.

Lip color adds color to the lips and helps to correct the shape of the mouth. Artistry and a keen sense of fashion are essential in
selecting the appropriate lip color, shade, or tint. Also to be considered is whether the prevailing fashion calls for a light or dark lip
color, and whether a thin or thick film application is desirable.
The basic tints and shades of lip color are blue red, yellow red, orange, and true red. All shades and tints of lip color originate
from these basic colors.
4. Eye Makeup
Eye colors and shadows are produced in pastel blue, pastel turquoise, lavender mauve, grey, blue, pastel green, metallic
silver, metallic blue, and shades of chestnut, beige, and brown.
Eye color or shadow, when applied to the upper lids, compliments the eyes by making them look brighter and more
expressive. As a general rule, the eye color or shadow should match the color of the eyes, or be a shade lighter. The eye color or
shadow should be more subtle for daytime wear, whereas the colors or shadows for evening wear can be more sophisticated.
Eye colors and shadows are available in stick, cream and cake form.
Eyeliners are intended for application to the eyelids, close to the lashes. There are made in shading tones, and may either
be in pencil, cake, or liquid form, packaged with a small semi stiff applicator brush. Color shades correspond to those for eye
colors and shadows, but they are more intense. The eyeliner should be the same color as the mascara.
Eyebrow pencils are used to modify the natural outline of the eyebrows, usually after tweezing, and to heighten the effect.
They maybe used to darken the eyebrows, to fill in where the brow is thin or devoid of hair, and to correct misshapen brows.
Eyebrow pencils cannot be sanitized. Brush on brow color comes in powdered form and is applied with a brush. Cream, liquid and
cake eyebrow colorings are other types that may be applied with a brush.
Mascara is available in liquid, cake, and cream form. Mascara colors come in black, brown, and a variety of other tints and
shades. When applied to the eyelashes, mascara makes them look fuller and longer. It also can be used to darken the eyebrows.
Mascara and eyebrow pencil colors should be the same or color coordinated. Usually, the lashes look better when darker than the
brows.
MAKEUP FOR FACIAL TYPES
1. Oval the oval facial type is generally accepted as the perfect face. The contours and proportions of the oval face form the basis for
modifying all other facial types.
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply a cheek color on cheekbones in a triangular fashion. Blend color upward and outward toward the
temples, no higher than the outer corners of the eyes.
Eyebrows: They should frame the eyes in a soft, natural arch.
Lips: Accentuate the natural bowline of the upper lip. Outline the lower lip so that it appears slightly fuller than the
upper lip.
2. Pear Shape
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply color to the cheekbones and extend the color downward along the jawline to create the illusion of
slenderness. Shading or a darker foundation can be applied to a wide jawline or double chin to slenderize the width
of the face.
Eyebrows: They should retain a natural slightly high arch.
Lips: Apply lip color to accent both the upper and lower lips.
3. Long
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply cheek color on cheekbones no higher than the outer corners of the eyes and no lower than the tip
of the nose.
A shading cosmetic or darker foundation can be applied to the chin and forehead to create the illusion of width to
the face.
Eyebrows: They should retain a natural arch.
Lips: Apply lip color to give the illusion of fullness and width to the lips.
4. Square
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply color to the cheekbones, extending the color downward on the jawline. A shading cosmetic or a
darker foundation can be applied to the heavy area of the jaw to create the illusion of slenderness.
Eyebrows: A rounded arch will create softness which detracts from the squareness of the jawline.
Lips: Apply lip color to create fullness and width to offset the squareness of the jawline.
5. Heart Shape
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: To minimize the width of the forehead and cheeks, apply cheek color high on the cheekbones, extending
the color to the temples. A shading cosmetic or darker foundation can be applied to the forehead to minimize its
width.
Eyebrows: They should not be spaced widely. Allow about the length of one eye between brows. Arch high, but
retain a natural look.
Lips: When applying lip color, follow the natural contour of the lips.
6. Round
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: The round face will appear longer and narrower if cheek color is applied high on the cheekbones,
extending towards the temples. The color can be blended downward along the sides of the face at least (1.25
cm.) outward from the nose. A shading cosmetic or darker foundation can be applied to the jawline under the
cheeks to create the illusion of slenderness.
Eyebrows: Follow the natural contour of the eyebrow, avoiding a high rounded arch.
Lips: Outline lips and fill in color, avoiding excessive fullness.

7. Diamond
Makeup Suggestions:
Cheeks: Apply color on the heavy area of the cheekbones. Extend the color no higher than the outer corners of
the eyes and no lower than the wider part of the face. A lighter foundation can be applied to the chin and forehead
to create the illusion of width or fullness to the face.
Lips: Follow the natural contour of the lips, but avoid exaggerated fullness.
CORRECTIVE MAKEUP
Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with correct shadowing or shading, and balanced with
proper hairstyle.
A basic rule for the application of makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, while shadowing minimizes it.
A highlight is produced when a lighter shade than the original foundation is used on a particular part of the face. Highlights
bring out the parts of the facial featured to be emphasized.
A shadow is formed when the foundation used is darker than the original one. The use of shadows (dark colors and shades)
minimizes or subdues prominent features and makes them less noticeable.
When two tones of foundations are used, care must be taken to blend them properly so that there will be no line of
demarcation.
Color harmony can be achieved when the make up tones flatter the color of the eyes, hair and skin. To determine what is
best for each patron, the makeup artist must:
1. Analyze the color of the patrons skin, hair, and eyes.
2. Examine the front and profile views of her facial features.
3. Select and apply those makeup highlights and / or shades that will produce the desired corrective results.
EYEBROW ARCHING
Correctly shaped eyebrows have a marked effect on the beauty and contour of the face.
The natural arch of the eyebrow follows the bony structure, or the curved line of the orbit (eye socket). Most people have a
disorderly growth of hairs both above and below the natural line. These hairs should be removed, to give a clean cut and attractive
appearance.
Because of the sensitivity of the skin around the eyes, some patrons cannot tolerate tweezing. For them, shaving or a wax
depilatory may be used.
MAKEUP COSMETICS
Cosmetics

Forms Available

Uses
Takes shine from face. Helps
makeup to set. Gives face matte
(dull) finish.
Base for makeup.

Face powder
Cake or powder
SAFETY
1. Wash and
Cream, liquid,
before
and Foundation
(Clear
or
Tinted)
cake
application, or
Lip
color
Stick, cream,
Gives color and sheen to lips.
unrelated
to
(Lipstick)
liquid
2.
Properly
Cheek color
Cream, dry, liquid
Gives cheeks soft, warm glow.
protection).
Brush - on
3. Sanitize all (Rouge)
Cake, cream, liquid
Adds color to eyelashes.
5. Do not get Mascara
Cake, pencil, liquid
Emphasizes eyes.
astringents, or Eyeliner
Eye shadow
Stick, cream, cake
Adds color to eyelids.
eyes.
Defines eyebrows by drawing fine
6.
Sharpen
Eyebrow
color
Pencil
or
powder
lines
pencils after
In eyebrow area,
7. Discard all
as sponges, Astringent
Liquid or cream
Closes pores of oily skin.
8. After each Skin Freshener
Emulsion or thick Helps retain moisture in the skin.
all linens that Moisturizer
cream
9. Use spatula
containers.
10. Keep fingernails round and smooth, to avoid scratching patron.
11. Use salt shaker type of container for powder.
12. Pour all lotions from bottle containers.
13. Do not apply liquid or cream lip color directly on patrons lips. Use a brush.
14. Use an antiseptic on tweezed area, to avoid infection.
15. Protect patrons hair and skin from direct contact with facial hair.

PRECAUTIONS:
sanitize your hands
after
a
makeup
after touching any object
the procedure.
drape patron (for her
brushes after each use.
lotions,
antiseptics,
eye makeup on patrons
eyebrow and eyeliner
each use.
disposable items, such
after each use.
use, wash and sanitize
touch patrons skin.
to remove creams from

Unit IV. Basic Barbering, Hairstyling, and Hair Treatment

The art and technique of hair shaping or barbering must be mastered by the student of cosmetology before she can be
qualified to work in the better salons. Thorough instructions are required in the proper way to shape the hair using either regular
scissors, thinning shears, or razor. Instructions must be followed by practice under the guidance of instructor. A good hair shaping
serves as a foundation for beautiful coiffures. The cosmetologists education in not complete until she has acquired the artistic skill and
judgment necessary for successful hair shaping or barbering.
Modern hairstylists are designed to accentuate the patrons good points while minimizing her poor features. The
cosmetologist must be guided by the patrons wishes, as well as by what is best for her personality. In selecting the proper hairstyle,
the cosmetologist should take into consideration the patrons head shape, facial contour, and hair texture.
Definitions Pertaining to Hair Shaping or Barbering
Back Combing: Combing the short hairs of a strand towards the scalp. Other terms used for back combing are teasing, ratting,
matting, and French lacing.
Basic hair shaping: Shaping the hair to a length that is not too long nor too short, in order that it properly fits many different
hairstyles.
Blunt Cutting: Cutting the hair straight off, without tapering.
Effilating: a French term for slithering.
Feather edge: When the hair at the nape is shingled in a graceful upward effect and the neck is cleaned with scissors, razor, or
clippers.
Guideline: A strand of hair at the nape or sides of the head that is cut to a precise length. This cut strand establishes a guide or line
to be followed in shaping the balance of the head, and helps to establish the general shaping pattern.
Hair shaping: The process of thinning, tapering, and shortening the hair using comb, scissors, thinning shears, or razor in order to
mold the hair into a becoming shape. Hair shaping is commonly used for haircutting.
Hairstyling: Arranging the hair in various attractive shapes or styles. The contour of the face, shape of the head and the seasons
current styles must be considered when styling hair.
Hairstylist: One who has the artistic ability to suggest and create an attractive new hair fashion.
Layer cutting: Tapering and thinning the hair by dividing it into many layers.
Natural hairline: When no artificial hairline is created in short hairstyles, the hair at the nape is left in its natural hairline.
Neck trim: Cutting and shaping the hair at the nape into a V, oval, or round shape, or shingling the hair into a feather edge effect.
Razor cutting: The use of the razor in thinning or cutting wet hair.
Scissor cutting: Shaping the hair with scissors.
Shingling: Cutting the hair close to the nape with the hair becoming gradually longer toward the crown, without showing a definite
line.
Slithering: The process used in thinning and tapering the hair at the same time with scissors.
Tapering: Shortening the hair a graduated effect. Another term used for tapering is feathering.
Thinning: Decreasing the thickness of the hair when it is too heavy.
Trimming or clipping: removing split hair ends or cutting the extreme hair ends of the hair with the scissors.