How to Build Radiant Chargers

Copyright 2009, by H2OFuelKits, LLC

1. Introduction to Radiant Charging

2. Solid State Radiant Chargers

Radiant battery chargers are those which use a flyback transformer to send high voltage
pulses to a given battery, or capacitor. Flyback voltage is devoid of current, so it cannot
normally be used for anything. This useless electricity is similar to static electricity. It is
the same type of voltage that is emitted from a spark plug on a conventional automotive
ignition using a regular ignition coil.
Flyback voltage will not run a motor, or light or light bulb, since the current is too
low. This type of electricity can be called radiant energy, reactive power, static electricity,
flyback voltage, zero point energy, back EMF. Back EMF is not completely correct, since
back EMF is not necessarily high voltage. Back EMF is opposing current that opposes the
incoming current into a coil of wire. Flyback voltage is the high voltage radiant spike that
occurs when you shut off a given coil. There is no flyback voltage when you turn the coil
on, but there will be opposing back EMF.
The flyback voltage/radiant energy only occurs when you switch a given coil to the
off position, and you have to do it very quickly. If you don’t switch the power to a given
coil off very quickly, then the flyback voltage will go down exponentially depending on
the switching speed. Fast and abrupt switching speeds are required to achieve high flyback
voltage. Sometimes John Bedini and other inventors call this fast and sharp switching
speed “sharp gradients” in reference to the abrupt nature of the switching speed that is
required.
One example is the contact points on an ignition system on an older vehicle. Contact
points are either open or closed at any given time. This rapid switching speed of contact
points allows the coil to produce a spark. The spark is created from flyback voltage,
otherwise known as radiant energy that comes from the coil. If you were to discharge the
coil very slowly, it would not produce 10,000 volts and cause a spark. Any method which
can discharge an inductor coil, or a transformer coil very quickly, will produce a high
voltage flyback discharge that has very little current.
This type of energy can charge batteries and capacitors. It is not free energy, as
energy is required to create the magnetic field in a given inductor/transformer coil. If you
hook up the radiant energy/flyback voltage to a capacitor, or a battery, something useful
happens. The capacitor or battery will absorb and convert the useless electricity into
something useable. Capacitors do not require current to take a charge. However, capacitors
do produce current when discharged. Radiant energy pulses can charge a capacitor for free,
and the capacitor can be discharged to run equipment or power a light bulb. If you can
produce radiant energy very efficiently, then you could hypothetically achieve
conventional over-unity by using a capacitor to absorb the flyback voltage.
 This guide is not intended to seek out free energy. We are going to focus on an
under-unity design that charges batteries. I have not been able to measure any type of over-
unity with any of my machines. I won’t say that would be impossible, but the following
machines are not over-unity when measured with conventional methods and normal math.

“The machine you are building will bring down the impedance of the battery this is
how the charge takes place, it drops the internal impedance of the cells, no real
current is needed this way.

There is no "Free energy", there is no "Over Unity" in any of these machines that
can be measured with normal scopes and meters and we are just all assuming uncles
Joe's theory to be right. When I put up the new pages I did not want to debate
anybody about what I posted. I only wanted to try to explain what I found to be the
proof of what everybody is calling Free Energy/ Over Unity, as it turns out to be
"Radiant Reactive Power", so term it as you will, di/dt or whatever it is all the same
in the end. If the machine can produce this Radiant spike before the switch turns on
and the spike is reactive and if it tapped off at the right time and sent to the battery
in the proper polarity, it will charge your battery. I'm not going to buy into all these
theories about unproven experiments unless the experiment is done in front of me, as
I have posted enough experiments to show everyone what it is.

One step further on this is that, I know some of the people did try to build my
motor's and did not get the results expected, but I can say that enough people have
been to my shop to see the proof of what I say I have built and have watched these
motors and solid state devices charging batteries. So I'm saying that the power you
seek is "Radiant Reactive Electricity", and it takes an input to get it in some amount,
that is all there is in these machines and strange devices. The riddle has been solved
in my book.”

- John Bedini
The picture above was drawn by a member of Overunity.com. This was his explanation of
radiant charging on a battery that has been heavily corroded. Experiences will vary, and
this picture is just one example of what other people have experienced.
The charger above was drawn by a member at Overunity.com. This person claims that this
charger works very well. It has been tested many times on many different batteries will
very good results. The core is an air core, but it could be made from black sand, or another
suitable laminated silicon-iron alloy core, like the metal used on most transformers.
The same variation of the charger above, can be shown below, only this time, you will be
using multiple transistors. You can put a resistor on the base input current to the base of
the transistor, to limit power. Neither of these two configurations is found to be easy to
setup, and the power draw is excessive, creating unnecessary heat in the transistors. The
goal is to create low current, high voltage spikes to charge the battery. If you put too much
current into the power coils, when they release their power, you cannot help but end up
with some current. The current output, plus the voltage output, will not normally exceed
the input power. Typically there is a 90% efficiency of the input current, to the output
current. The idea is to reduce the input current very low. The power coils will create a high
fly back voltage of at least 150 volts to 500 volts, or more. As you increase the input
current, the output current will gradually go up as well. No free energy will be created in
the device its self, you will only be multiplying voltage, similar to a transformer.

The difference in a Bedini style radiant charger is the resistance (impedance) of the
charging coils. On this particular setup, there is only a ¼ of an ohm on the output coil, and
yet you will be producing 150 volt spikes. With a 12 volt, to 150 volt step up transformer,
you will have at least 10 ohms or more on the 150 volt secondary winding. Transformers
do not have thick wire on the secondary, so they do not have the same effect on the
battery. The lower the impedance is on the power coils, the better the device will charge. If
you use extremely thick wire on the charging coils, you will end up with too much power,
and on small batteries, they will charge too quickly, boiling in the process.
In the circuit above, you can use a 3300 to 10,000 ohm resistor (shown in blue on the
diagram). This resistor provides the start current to create a “self resonating” or “self
oscillating” circuit. If the circuit stops resonating for no reason, then reduce resistance, use
a 3300 ohm resistor instead of a 10k.
 Easy (non moving) electric fan motor, with self resonating circuit.

Charges small D, C, AA and AAA batteries. Does not work to charge large
batteries. This produces 400 volt spikes and very low output current. Rotor shaft
does NOT spin. This is an old 120v bathroom fan. The type of circuit is not critical.
You can use the circuit that is shown above. One side of the bathroom fan simply
triggers the transistor. Since both coils share the same core, it doesn’t matter that
they are not wound directly on top of each other. The laminated stamped steel
windings assure that the magnetic field collapses very quickly, with no eddy
current losses (no heat) whatsoever on the coil its self. Because the windings
have 78 ohms resistor, this charger will work good for very tiny batteries like AA’s
or something smaller yet. A 2N3055 transistor will handle the current just fine.
Below is a trifilar version of a self resonating circuit. This has about 0.25 to 0.50 ohms
resistance or less on the output coil, which provides power for standard 6, 12 volt or 24
volt batteries of any size or shape. This particular unit works better for smaller batteries.
The low output resistance is achieved because all three coils are put into parallel with each
other. Each coil has about 1 ohm or less of resistance. Winding in series would make
higher voltage spikes, but would reduce the effective charging ability, since the impedance
(resistance) of the charging coils should be very low, since batteries have very low
resistance, less than 1 ohm.

Each coil of wire is wound next to the other one. They are all wound at the same time, 100
wraps of 20 gauge wire. The spool is about 1.75” around after it is wound. The inner core
is about 0.75” in diameter, and it is made from black Xerox developer powder for a copy
machine. The powder is mixed with clear epoxy from Harbor Freight, and poured into the
center. Before the epoxy hardens, a magnetic is placed on both ends of the core to align the
small magnetic flakes to create a very good lossless core. The best cores are those which
do not conduct electricity, but which conduct magnetism very well. The epoxy black sand
core is the best, since it does not conduct any measurable current, but has medium
magnetic properties. It has no eddy current losses and the Hysteresis (the ability) of it to
rapidly discharge is very good. The black sand discharges immediately when you release
the magnetic field, creating a sharp high fly back voltage.
In the picture above, a 1.20 amp, 12 volt transformer from Radio Shack is used to provide
power. The transformer goes into a bridge rectifier, and the resulting DC waveform goes
into a 2200 uF 25 volt capacitor to provide steady input power. You could simply use a
plug in transformer, as this is more complicated and isn’t necessary. The transistors are
TIP3055’s and they work great. They get warm, but never hot, not even on the higher
power mode. This is a crude unit, but it has been tested hundreds of hours without a glitch.

More information will be available in the next eBook series. Use the schematic above and
the reference pictures to build a self oscillating circuit. If it does not turn on, then switch
the polarity until it begins humming. Part 2 is going to go into more detail, and will show
you how to operate an oscilloscope and other test equipment.

For now, it is best to get the machine to work. If you are new to electronics, it will help to
practice soldering and building a coil. You should wrap all the coils clockwise, that way
the coils can be easier to operate since that is how everyone else is winding their charging
coils. You can buy copper wire, 19 gauge, up to 23 gauge for the power, and 19 to 27
gauge for the trigger wire on eBay. Buy at least 1000 foot spools, otherwise it is not worth
the money and you’ll be running out right away. Don’t bother with the wire at Radio
Shack, as the spools are too small.

The transistors and other electronics can all be purchased at Radio Shack or Digikey.com.
The transistors don’t have to be good to start with. Just use what you can afford. I used

TIP3055 transistors or 2N3055 transistors. The TIP3055’s were found to be bullet proof. I
have had the TIP3055’s red hot, literally smoking hot, and they still work fine. I would not
advise using any transistor for any period of time without a heat sink. All the diodes
should be high voltage, high speed diodes, at least 1000 volts, low current. You don’t need
more than a 1.0 amp diode for each power coil wire. The best transistors for these devices
are those which handle 225 watts up to 250 watts. The most common and best transistor, if
you have access is a MJL21194 since it can handle a lot more power and won’t burn up
very easily.

Please be patient and wait for the next installment of this guide. For now, I would be
happy to help you, and you can find my email address where you purchased this guide.
Thank you!

Charles Seiler